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CARPENTRY
Carpenters work with many different types of
materials and use many different kinds of tools.
It is important for a carpenter to have a good
knowledge about the properties of the different
materials he/she will use. This knowledge will
increase the effectiveness of the carpenter. It is
also essential that a carpenter know how to
operate many different kinds of tools efficiently
and safely. A carpenter's tools are very
important to his/her livelihood. The more tools
a carpenter can operate the more options that
carpenter has for creating quality work.
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Objectives ———————
1. Identify the characteristics of wood
used in carpentry.
2. Identify common defects in lumber.
3. Match types of wood to their uses.
4. Compute lumber quantities.
5. Select the characteristics of steel
framing materials.
6. Select guidelines for hand tool safety.
7. Identify common carpentry hand
tools and select their uses.
8. Use a hammer. (On The Job Activity)
9. Use a hand saw.
(On The Job Activity)
10. Use a level. (On The Job Activity)
11. Select guidelines for power tool
safety.
12. Identify common carpentry power
tools and select their uses.
13. Use a drill. (On The Job Activity)
14. Use a pneumatic fastener.
(On The Job Activity)
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Objective 1:——————
Identify the Characteristics of
Wood Used in Carpentry.
●
Grade: Lumber is graded or classified
based on its strength, appearance,
number of defects, and other factors.
Methods of grading are outlined by
the American Lumber Standards
Committee and then detailed lists of
grades and standards are developed
by the various lumber producers'
associations. Examples of the
associations for softwoods are the
Southern Pine Inspection Bureau,
California Redwood Association, and
the Western Wood Products
Association. Hardwood grades are
regulated by the National Hardwood
Lumber Association.
●
Size: Lumber produces come in
standard sizes based on width,
thickness, and length. Size may be
actual or nominal. Nominal size is the
size of the material before final
processing and tends to be larger
than the actual size after drying and
shaping.
Wood can be characterized and classified
many different ways. It is important for a
carpenter to be familiar with the different
characteristics so that he/she can pick the
best wood for the job.
When considering which type of lumber to
use a carpenter should consider the following characteristics:
●
Kind of Wood: Woods are classified
as either hard or soft. This classification has more to do with the type of
tree than the actual hardness of the
wood. A builder may want to use a
particular species of wood, such as
redwood, cedar, or yellow pine, for a
specific purpose based on the
appearance or other characteristics of
theat type of wood.
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CARPENTRY
Sawing Method: Most trees are
sawed so that the growth rings form
an angle of less than 45° with the
surface of the boards produced.
Such lumber is called flat-grained
in softwoods or plain-sawed in
hardwoods. Wood that is cut with
the growth rings at an angle greater
than 45° is called edge-grained in
softwoods and quarter-sawed in
hardwoods.
●
Drying Method: Lumber is dried to
reduce its weight, to decrease
shrinkage, and to improve usability.
A number of considerations go into
determining the correct moisture
content for lumber. Generally all the
carpenter needs to understand is
that green lumber, which is lumber
that has not been dried and with a
moisture content over 20%, will
shrink more than air-dried or kilndried lumber. A kiln is a large heated
oven that is used to speed the drying process of lumber and other
materials.
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●
Surface Finish: Lumber producers
plane wood to give a smooth finish
to one or more surfaces for specific
purposes. Lumber may be rough,
with no finished surface; smoothone-side (S1S) with one wide surface planed; smooth-two-sides
(S2S) with both wide surfaces
planed; or smooth-four-sides (S4S)
with all surfaces planed.
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Visit the following
sites to discover
more about
lumber producers’
associations:
Southern Pine Inspection Bureau
http://www.spib.org/
California Redwood Association
http://www.calredwood.org
Western Wood Products Association
http://www.wwpa.org/
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Objective 2:——————
Identify Common Defects
in Lumber.
Because wood is a natural product it is
subject to environmental forces that affect
its properties. Wood can develop what
are generally known as defects while it is
growing and after it is cut into boards.
These defects can affect the strength and
use of the wood. Sometimes the defects
are seen as an attractive feature of the
wood.
●
Crook: A crook occurs when a
board is warped or bent along its
long edge creating a convex or concave side. It can be caused by
improper drying or storing of the
board. (Figure 1)
FIGURE 1
●
Bow or Warp: A bow or warp
occurs when the face of a board
curves and will not lay flat on the
wide sides of the board. This is
often caused by improper storage.
(Figure 2)
FIGURE 2
●
Cup: A cup occurs when there is a
convex or concave bending of the
board across the grain of the
lumber. It may be caused when one
side of the board dries at a
different rate then the other side.
(Figure 3)
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FIGURE 3
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●
●
●
●
Twist or Wind: A twist or wind
occurs when board twists or
appear to have been wound. The
ends of the board twist in different
directions. This may be caused by
eneven drying or by the condition
under which the wood grew in the
tree. (Figure 4)
Check: A check is a break or
crack in the board along the
growth rings. Checks are normally
found at the end of the board.
They are normally caused by rapid
drying of the board. (Figure 5)
Knots/Knothole: Knots are hard,
dense and often darker colored
areas in lumber. They are created
with a branch is embedded into
the tree as it grows. Knots may be
intergrown, encased, spiked, or
decayed. Knots are sometimes
considered attractive in lumber
and are left in to suit the type of
construction that will take place.
(Figure 6)
FIGURE 4
FIGURE 5
FIGURE 6
Insect hole or Worm holes:
These are created by some wood
boring insect that digs or eats
holes in the lumber.
Visit the following sites to discover more about
wood defects:
http://www.woodzone.com/articles/common.htm
INO - A Canadian Company Using Technology to
Detect Wood Defects
http://www.ino.qc.ca/en/syst_et_compo/wivs.asp
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Objective 3:——————
Match Types of Wood To
Their Uses
Common softwoods and their uses are
listed below.
●
Aromatic red cedar and incense
cedar - closet linings, fence posts,
paneling, interior and exterior trim,
and decking
●
Western red cedar - shingles and
shakes, lumber, poles, posts, piles,
and exterior siding
●
Bald and pecky cypress - Millwork,
planingmill products, tanks, silos,
exterior and interior trim, siding and
shingles, soundproof and rustic
paneling; The pitted holes in pecky
cypress make it a good material for
soundproofing paneling.
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●
Douglas and white fir - construction
lumber, plywood, veneers, planingmill
products, timbers, tanks, silos, trim,
moldings, cabinets, flooring, doors,
and sashes; Douglas fir is one of our
most valuable timber trees.
●
Western hemlock - millwork
products such as doors and
windows, utility lumber, plywood,
cabinets, and trim
●
Larch - utility lumber, plywood,
veneers, planingmill products, trim,
moldings, cabinets, and flooring
●
Ponderosa, white, and yellow pineplaningmill products, cabinets, trim,
molding, plywood, paneling, door
panels, subflooring, sheathing,
shelving, and utility lumber; The
pines are probably the most valuable
group of timber trees in the world.
They not only supply wood and pulp,
but also supply natural resins
including spirits or turpentine, resin,
tar, and pitch.
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CARPENTRY
●
●
Redwood - planingmill products,
tanks, silos, flumes, water towers,
bridge timbers, trestles, exterior
siding and trim, exterior
ornamentation, fences, plywood,
and paneling; Redwood is one of
nature’s outstanding wonders:
Redwood trees can be destroyed by
fire or felled by man or storm, but
there has never been an observed
case of a redwood dying from
natural causes.
Sitka, Engelman, white, red, and
black spruce - general
construction, planingmill products,
plywood, cabinets, ladder rails,
decking, and posts
Common hardwoods and their uses
are listed below.
●
Alder or red alder (fruitwood) cabinets, and it is a lowcost
substitute for cherry
●
Beech - planingmill products, and
flooring; Beech is a sturdy, general
purpose hardwood and is an
excellent alternate for birch or hard
maple.
●
Northern birch - planingmill
products, interior finish, trim,
cabinets, plywood, veneers, dowel
pins, dowel rods, screwhole buttons
and plugs
●
Butternut - interior finish and
paneling
●
Oak - furniture, trimming, boat
framing, desks and flooring
●
Cherry - furniture and cabinet work,
plywood, paneling, veneers,
screwhole buttons and plugs
●
Cottonwood - stair risers and
general cabinet work
●
Northern brown ash - cabinets,
fixtures, trim, and plywood
●
American elm - plywood and burl
veneers
●
Southern white ash - fixtures,
cabinets, plywood, plywood edging,
and cabinetdoor moldings
●
Sap gum and selected red gum millwork, cabinets, plywood,
veneers, plywood core stock, and
crating grade plywood
●
Basswood - planingmill products,
and moldings
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Objective 4:——————
Compute Lumber Quantities
Lumber and certain related building
materials come in basically three different
units of measurement, each unit serving as
the basis for pricing such materials. The
three basic units of measurement for
lumber are board foot, square foot, and
lineal foot. For example, 2x4 studs may
cost ¢.26 a board foot, plywood may cost
¢.22 a square foot, and molding may cost
¢.18 a lineal foot. Also lumber suppliers
often give discounts for large quantity
orders. For instance, they may have one
price per board foot and a lower price for
100 board feet (c bd. ft.) or per 1000 board
feet (M bd.ft.).
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Board Feet
One board foot is equivalent to a piece of
lumber that is 12" wide, 12" long, and 1"
thick or its equivalent. Common lumber
types that may be measured by board feet
are regular boards, dimension lumber,
structural lumber, and shop and factory
lumber. Dimensional lumber is lumber that
has not been surfaced or finished at the
lumber mill. The measurements of
dimensional lumber are the actual size of
the piece of lumber. A dimensional lumber 2
x 4 board will actually measure 2 inches by
4 inches. Structural lumber is material that
is greater than 5" in thickness and width or
lumber that is graded for strength and
greater than 2" x 4" and used to support
framing members. Shop and factory lumber
is lumber that will be used for further fabrication, such as for moldings or door rails.
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To figure board foot use the following
formula:
1. Multiply the Thickness (T) x Width
(W) x Length in feet (L) x Number of
Pieces (N)
or
TxWxLxN
NOTE: Use nominal sizes in figuring
board feet, except for lumber less than 1"
thick, which is figured as 1". The nominal
size refers to the measurement before a
piece of lumber has been surfaced or
finished. A surfaced or finished 2 x 4 is
actually 1 1/2" x 3 1/2", but when figuring
board feet use the nominal measurement
of 2" x 4". EXAMPLE: A piece of 1/2" x
12" x 12" is considered to be 1 board foot.
2. Divide by 12
TxWxLxN
12
3. Round board feet to next full board
foot.
EXAMPLES: 1 1/3 or 1.3 board feet
is rounded to 2 board feet
1 1/2 or 1.5 board feet is rounded to
2 board feet.
1 3/4 or 1.75 board feet is rounded to
2 board feet.
1/2 or .5 board foot is rounded to 1
board foot.
EXAMPLE:
2 x 8 x 6 x 3 = 144
Square Feet
One square foot is equivalent to a piece
of lumber equal to 144 square inches.
Another way to think of one square foot is
an area equal to a square with 12" sides.
You determine square feet by multiplying
with width by the length of a board or
object. Common lumber types that may
be measured by square feet are plywood,
particle board, drywall, sheathing,
paneling, and certain hardwoods, milled
boards, and specialty products such as
flooring and ceiling tile.
To figure square footage use the following formula:
1. Area(A) = Width(W) x Length (L)
EXAMPLE: To figure the square
footage in a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood:
A=WxL
A = 4' x 8'
A = 32 square feet
2. To find number of units needed
(sheets, tiles, pieces, etc.), divide
number of square feet to be covered
by the total square feet in one unit in
which material is sold.
3. Round the fractional units to the next
whole number in which the material
is sold.
EXAMPLE:
To figure the plywood decking for a
roof 20' x 41':
1. Use the formula A = W x L to get 820
total square feet to be covered:
144 ÷ 12 = 12 board feet
20 x 41 = 820.
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2. Next, divide 820 by the total square
feet in one sheet of plywood (32
square feet):
820 ÷ 32 = 25.625
3. Round this number to 26.
You would order 26 sheets of plywood to
cover the area with no allowance for
waste.
Lineal Foot
One lineal foot is 12" or 1' in length. The
lineal foot measurement is simply the
distance or length in feet of material that
is needed. To figure lineal feet you would
measure the distance or number of feet of
material required to cover the necessary
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area. Common lumber types that may be
measured in lineal feet are molding and
trim.
Molding and trim are sold in standard
lengths of even-foot measurements. Most
suppliers mix the lengths to get as close
as possible to the amount ordered. For
example, a supplier would probably ship
108 or 110 lineal feet of base if an order
called for 107 lineal feet. The buyer is
charged for the amount delivered, not for
the amount ordered.
Example: If a room were 10' x 15' and you
need to put base trim around the floor you
would measure the length of each wall
and add those measurements together.
10' + 10' + 15' + 15' = 50 lineal feet
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Objective 5:——————
Select the Characteristics of
Steel Framing Materials.
Wood has been the
primary building
material since people
began building
structures, but the use of
steel has been
gaining in popularity for
many years in the
construction industry.
The steel that is
primarily used to make
the steel or metal stud
walls is called
cold-formed steel.
Cold-formed steel is
steel that has been
shaped, rolled, or cut into the desired
shape or size while the steel is at room
temperature. Because the process does
not uses heat it is called cold-formed.
Study the following advantages and
disadvantages of using steel framing
members and compare steel framing to
wood framing.
●
Steel prices have remained
relatively steady over the years
●
Steel strength provides greater
design flexibility
●
Steel is non-combustible and fire
resistant
●
Steel is insect resistant
●
Steel will not shrink, swell, twist, or
warp due to environmental
conditions
●
Steel framing is light and easy to
handle
●
Steel framing waste is recyclable
Advantages:
●
Cold-formed steel can be
consistently produced to very exact
standards for strength, size, and
shape
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Disadvantages:
●
Higher labor costs in some areas
due to lack of skilled labor
●
Lower R-value thermal resistance
than wood requiring extra insulation
to raise R-value (generally wood has
twice the R-value of steel framed
walls)
●
Ghosting may occur: ghosting is the
collection of dirt and dust particles
on the colder areas of wall surfaces
Visit the following sites to learn
more about cold-formed steel
and steel framing:
http://www.steel.org/construction/design/gallery/gallery.htm
http://www.steelframingalliance.com
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Objective 6:——————
Select Guidelines for Hand
Tool Safety
One of the most important aspects of
being a good carpenter is the attention to
safety and care of equipment. The tools a
carpenter uses are valuable in terms of
cost as well as in terms of earning a
living. It is very important for carpenters to
care for their tools to assure long tool life.
It is also very important to follow safety
guidelines so that you and your fellow
workers are not injured. Knowing how to
care for tools and equipment and how to
use them safely is a large part of the
carpentry trade and something all
carpenters should strive to achieve.
There are two primary classifications for
tools used in carpentry. Most tools are
either hand tools or power tools.
The force or power for operating hand
tools normally comes from the person
using the tool, or muscle power.
Examples of hand tools are hammers and
pliers.
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When working with hand tools you should
always seek to follow these guidelines:
●
Always follow OSHA rules and
regulations. OSHA stands for the
Occupational Safety & Health
Administration and plays an
important role in maintaining and
enforcing safety on the job.
●
Use the correct tool for the job.
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●
Inspect tools frequently to make
sure they are in good condition.
●
Keep tools sharp.
●
Keep tools clean.
●
Repair broken or damaged tools
promptly.
●
Dispose of broken or damaged tools
that cannot be repaired.
●
Store tools properly when not in use.
For examples, do not carry tools in
your pockets or place tools where
they can roll off a surface. Do not
store them where someone can trip
over them or step on them. Protect
the cutting edges and store tools in
a dry place.
●
Stay alert when using tools.
Examples of staying alert are
keeping your fingers away from
cutting edges and work away from
your body when using cutting tools.
●
Wear professional protection
equipment when necessary such as
eye protection, hard hat, gloves, and
steel-toe shoes.
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Visit the following sites to
learn more about OSHA and
tools safety:
http://www.osha.gov
Tool Safety Document:
http://www.osha.gov/Publications/
osha3080.pdf
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Objective 7:——————
Identify Common Carpentry
Hand Tools and Select
Their Uses.
There are many different tools that a carpenter will use on the job. Some tools are very
specific to certain types of carpentry work and may not be used by all carpenters. Other
tools are used by all carpenters. The hand tools listed below are common tools that all
carpenters will probably use to do their work. The tools below represent only a small
number of the hundreds of hand tools available to carpenters.
Hammers
●
FIGURE 7
Curved claw hammer – used to
drive and pull nails (Figure 7)
FIGURE8
●
Straight-claw hammer – used to
drive and pull nails, dismantle, and
wreck (Figure 8)
FIGURE 9
●
Sledge hammer – used to drive
stakes and break concrete;Sledge
hammers used for forming operations
weighing from 6 pounds to 12 pounds,
depending on the job (Figure 9)
Is it a hammer or a human? Some parts of a
hammer are the head, cheek, claw, eye, neck,
face, and throat. To find out which part is which
visit the following site.
http://www.hammernet.com/anatomy.htm
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Saws
FIGURE 10
●
Crosscut and Rip handsaws –
used to cut across the grain of
wood and normally have four to
twelve points per inch with the
teeth filed at an angle across the
face; rip handsaws are used to
cut with the grain of wood and
normally have 5 to 7 points per
inch with the teeth filed square
across the face (Figure 10)
●
Backsaw (miterbox saw) –
used to cut fine joints; also used
in a miter box to cut miters or
square ends (Figure 11)
FIGURE 11
●
Keyhole saw (compass saw) –
used to cut inside corners,
curves, circles, and frets
(Figure 12)
FIGURE 12
FIGURE 13
●
Hacksaw – used to cut metal,
such as reinforcing bars;
hacksaws have U-shaped frames
and replaceable blades that
come in lengths of 8" to 12".
(Figure 13)
FIGURE 14
●
Coping saw – used to cut
curves and to shape ends of
molding and trim joints
(Figure 14)
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FIGURE 15
●
Framing square – used to square
corners, check square, and lay out
90° angles (Figure 15)
●
Stair gauge – used with framing
square to lay out the correct angle
of stair steps (Figure 16)
●
Combination square – used to
check square and to mark 45°
miters (Figure 17)
●
Try square – used to measure and
check 45° and 90° angles
(Figure 18)
FIGURE 16
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FIGURE 17
FIGURE 18
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●
Speed square – used to mark and
check angles (Figure 19)
Measuring and marking instruments
and tools
●
100' tape – used to measure short
and long measurements with
accuracy (Figure 20)
●
Folding rule (zigzag rule) – used to
make accurate inside and outside
measurements for laying out forms,
laying out joints, and checking for
square (Figure 21)
●
Steel tape – used to measure
irregular as well as regular shapes
and to make accurate inside and
outside measurements (Figure 22)
FIGURE 19
FIGURE 20
FIGURE 21
FIGURE 22
FIGURE 23
●
Chalk box and line – used to lay out
work on concrete, to lay out cut lines
on lumber, and to mark joints in concrete (Figure 23)
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Leveling equipment and tools
FIGURE 24
●
Builder’s level – used to set and
check elevations (Figure 24)
●
Laser beam level – used to
establish and check elevations and to establish, check,
and transfer grades
(Figure 25)
●
Spirit level – used to level forms
and to transfer and check grades
(Figure 26)
●
FIGURE 27
Torpedo level – used to check
grades on short forms such as step
treads (Figure 27)
●
Line level – used to check grades
of a dry line (Figure 28)
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FIGURE 25
FIGURE 26
FIGURE 28
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●
Plumb bob– used with leveling
instruments to establish exact
building points (Figure 29)
FIGURE 29
Screwdrivers
●
FIGURE 30
Standard screwdriver
(flat head) (Figure 30)
FIGURE 31
●
Phillips screwdriver
(X head) (Figure 31)
FIGURE 32
●
Torx-head screwdriver
(Figure 32)
●
Square-head screwdriver
(Figure 33)
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FIGURE 33
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Pliers
●
FIGURE 34
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Side-cutting pliers – used to hold,
bend, shape, and cut wire
(Figure 34)
FIGURE 35
●
Needle-nose pliers – used to
hold and bend think wire and metal
fittings and to hold small objects
(Figure 35)
FIGURE 36
●
Combination slip-joint pliers –
used to hold and turn small round
parts (Figure 36)
FIGURE 37
●
Channel-lock pliers – used to hold
and turn large round parts
(Figure 37)
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Wrenches
●
FIGURE 38
Open-end wrench – has an
accurate non-adjusting opening in
each end; used where there is
plenty of clearance for movement
(Figure 38)
FIGURE 39
●
●
Box-end wrench – has two
enclosed, nonadjustable heads that
may be offset from 15° to 45°; used
where there is limited space for
movement (Figure 39)
FIGURE 40
Combination wrench – has an
open-end and a box-end (Figure 40)
FIGURE 41
●
Adjustable wrench – has one
adjustable jaw and one fixed jaw;
uses where there is plenty of clearance for movement (Figure 41)
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●
Pipe wrench – has one adjustable jaw
and one fixed jaw; used to work on
pipes and rods (Figure 42)
FIGURE 42
●
Allen wrench – hexagonal steel bars
with bent ends; used to tighten and
loosen set-screws (Figure 43)
FIGURE 43
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FIGURE 44
●
Ratchet socket wrench – contains a
ratchet that allows torque to be applied
in one direction only; is used with many
different size socket attachments
(Figure 44)
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Files – Files are used to smooth and shape surfaces on which edge-cutting tools cannot be used. Files come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and types of cuts. The file handle
is used to slide onto the narrow end of the file to give the user a handle and more control over the tool.
FIGURE 45
●
Mill (Figure 45)
FIGURE 46
●
Round (Figure 46)
FIGURE 47
●
Half-round (Figure 47)
FIGURE 48
●
Square (Figure 48)
FIGURE 49
●
Triangular (Figure 49)
FIGURE 50
●
Cant saw (Figure 50)
FIGURE 51
●
Knife (Figure 51)
FIGURE 52
●
File handle (Figure 52)
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Chisels– Chisels are used for joint construction, removal or stripping of excess
material, and for cutting masonry and steel.
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FIGURE 53
●
Wood chisel
(Figure 53)
FIGURE 54
●
Cold chisel
(masonry and
steel) (Figure 54)
●
Stripping chisel
(Figure 55)
FIGURE 55
FIGURE 56
●
Pry bar
(Figure 56)
●
Nail puller
(Figure 57)
FIGURE 57
FIGURE 58
●
Brick chisel
(Figure 58)
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Clamps– Clamps are tools for binding or
pressing two or more parts together and
holding them firmly in their relative positions. They are often used to hold pieces
of wood together which have been glued
while the glue dries.
FIGURE 63
FIGURE 59
●
●
Spring clamp (Figure 63)
Bar clamp (Figure 59)
FIGURE 64
FIGURE 60
●
C-clamp (Figure 60)
FIGURE 61
●
●
Web clamp (strap) (Figure 64)
Hand-screw clamp (Figure 61)
FIGURE 62
●
Locking C-clamp (Figure 62)
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Ladders and Scaffolding – Ladders may be made of wood, metal, or fiberglass.
Scaffolding may be wood or metal and may be prefabricated or job built.
FIGURE 65
●
Stepladder
(Figure 65)
FIGURE 67
FIGURE 66
●
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●
Extension ladder
(Figure 66)
Single (Straight)
(Figure 67)
FIGURE 68
FIGURE 69
●
Prefabricated
scaffolding (Figure 68)
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Roof brackets (Figure 69)
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Miscellaneous Hand Tools and Equipment
●
FIGURE 70
Shovels – used to dig holes,
move loose material, and place
concrete; common types are
spade, scoop, round-point and
square-point (Figure 70)
FIGURE 71
●
Utility brush – used in finishing
and rubbing operation on
concrete and to clean other tools
(Figure 71)
FIGURE 72
●
Wheelbarrow – used to
transport material such as dirt
and fresh concrete at job site
(Figure 72)
●
Sawhorse– used to support
materials while cutting, fastening,
etc. (Figure 73)
●
Brooms – used to clean up work
area and to roughen surface of
concrete (Figure 74)
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FIGURE 73
FIGURE 74
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On the Job Activity
Objective 8:——————
Use a Hammer Properly
Equipment and Supplies: For this On
the Job Activity you need the following
equipment and supplies:
Safety equipment
Claw hammer
Nails
2 - 2 x 4 blocks
Introduction: A hammer seems like a simple tool, but even for the simplest of tools
there are right, wrong, efficient, and inefficient ways to use them. A hammer is one of
the most used tools of any carpenter. It is used to drive and pull nails as well as to take
structures apart. Workers who do not use a hammer properly can cause accidents and
injuries to themselves and their fellow workers as well as damage to the materials at the
job site.
STEP-BY-STEP
DRIVING A NAIL
●
STEP 1 - Safety Equipment - The
first step of any job is to securely
fasten, attach, or put on the
required safety equipment. The use
of a hammer requires a hardhat and
eye protection
(goggles, safety-glasses, face
shield). Once you have correctly put
on your safety equipment you are
ready to use a hammer. (Figure 75)
●
STEP 2 - Grasp the Hammer Grasp the hammer handle firmly near
the end of the handle. Your hand
should not hand off of the end of the
hammer. A firm grasp is very important so that the hammer does not slip
out of your hand when
hammering and so that you can
direct the power of your motion onto
the proper location. (Figure 76)
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FIGURE 75
FIGURE 76
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●
STEP 3 - Position Your Work - This step may actually come before or after you
grasp your hammer depending on the type of material with which you will be
working. In this activity the wood is small enough that you can position your work
after you have grasped the hammer. Face shield should be used whenever there
is a potential danger of face injury.
●
STEP 4 - Set Nail - Take the nail into your free hand and hold it in position
against the material you are going to nail. Raise the hammer slightly and give the
nail a light tap to start the nail and to determine your aim. The motion required for
you to do this involves your wrist, elbow, and shoulder. Do not use your full force
to begin the nail. (Figure 77)
FIGURE 77
●
STEP 5 - Driving the Nail - Once the nail has been tapped into place move your
free hand away from the nail and into a safe position which will allow you to hold
or support the material. Once your
FIGURE 78
free hand has been moved strike the
nail squarely to avoid damaging the
wood and bending the nail. Be sure to
keep the face of the hammer clean to
avoid slipping off of the nail head while
you are hammering. Drive the nail to
the appropriate level. (Figure 78)
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PULLING NAILS
FIGURE 79
●
STEP 1 - Grasp the Hammer - Grasp the
hammer handle firmly near the end of the handle, but just opposite from the grasp used for
driving nails. Your hand should not hand off of
the end of the hammer. (Figure 79)
●
STEP 2 - Position the Hammer - Slip the
claw of the hammer under the nail head and
apply pressure by pulling on the hammer handle. (Figure 80)
●
STEP 3 - Remove the Nail - Continue applying pressure by pulling back on the handle until
the handle is nearly vertical. When pulling on
the handle use a steady force and avoid jerking
FIGURE 81
on the handle. (Figure 81)
●
STEP 4 - Dispose of the Nails Properly When removing nails it is important to dispose
of the used nails properly to avoid injury and
damage to equipment by stepping on or driving
over nails.
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FIGURE 80
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On the Job Activity
Objective 9:——————
Use a Hand Saw.
Equipment and Supplies:For this On the
Job Activity you need the following equipment
and supplies:
Safety equipment
Crosscut hand saw
Rip hand saw
Pencil
2 Sawhorses
1 - 2 x 4 (approximately 4' long)
1 - 1 x 6 (approximately 4' long)
Speed square
Tape measure
Wedge
Introduction: Even though there are many different power saws that are used to cut
lumber it is still necessary use a hand saw at times. Hand saws are used to crosscut or
rip lumber. When you crosscut lumber you cut across the grain of the wood. When you
rip lumber you cut with the grain of the wood. There are different saws for crosscutting
and ripping. It is important to use the proper saw for the job in order to obtain the
proper cut. For this On the Job Activity you will learn how to use a hand saw to
crosscut and rip lumber.
STEP-BY-STEP
Crosscutting
●
STEP 1 - Safety Equipment - The first step of any job is to securely fasten,
attach, or put on the required safety equipment. The use of a hand saw requires a
hardhat and eye protection (goggles, safety-glasses, face shield). Once you have
correctly put on your safety equipment you are ready to begin using a handsaw.
●
STEP 2 - Position your material - Space your sawhorses so that each end of
your material is supported by each sawhorse. Your material should extend past
the sawhorse enough to allow you to cut the material without cutting into the
sawhorse.
●
STEP 3 - Mark your cut - Using a speed square, draw a straight line across one
end of one 2 x 4.
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STEP 4 - Ready your cut - If available you can
use clamps to hold your material to the sawhorses. If clamps are not available you can use
your knee to help hold the lumber in place.
Firmly grasp the crosscut hand saw in one
hand. Place one knee on the 2 x 4 board to hold
it in place and align the saw blade with your
mark. Align your blade on the waste side of the
mark so that the lumber to be used will be the
correct length. The waste side is the side that is
being cut away from the piece of lumber you
need. You can steady your saw blade with the
thumb on your free hand before you begin your
cut. (Figure 82)
FIGURE 82
●
STEP 5 - Begin your cut - Position the saw at
about a 45° angle between the sawhorse and
the 2 x 4 and start your cut by pulling the saw
backward and then pushing it forward.
(Figure 83)
FIGURE 83
●
STEP 6 - Complete your cut - Once you
begin your cut, move your free hand away from
the blade and use it to help secure the material
you are cutting. Hold the blade of the saw
square to the material and continue your cut
until the lumber has been cut.
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Rip cut
●
STEP 1 - Position your material - Space your sawhorses so that each end of
your material is supported by each sawhorse. Your material should extend past
the sawhorse enough to allow you to cut the material without cutting into the
sawhorse.
●
STEP 2 - Mark your cut - Using a straightedge mark a line lengthwise on the 1 x 6
about 1" from one side.
●
STEP 3 - Ready your cut - If available you
can use clamps to hold your material to the
sawhorses. If clamps are not available you
can use your knee to help hold the lumber in
place. Firmly grasp the crosscut hand saw in
one hand. Place one knee on the 1 x 6 board
to hold it in place and your blade on the waste
side of the mark, steadying the saw with your
thumb and keeping the blade at a 90° angle.
(Figure 84)
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FIGURE 84
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●
STEP 4 - Begin your cut - Pull the saw backward, then move it forward while
keeping the saw at a 60° angle with the 1 x 6.
●
STEP 5 - Continue your cut - Once
you begin your cut, move your free
hand away from the blade and use it to
help secure the material you are
cutting. Hold the blade of the saw at a
60° angle while cutting. Place a wedge
in the saw kerf as you saw to keep the
sawpath from binding the saw blade.
The kerf is the groove or cut produced
in material by the saw blade.
(Figure 85)
●
STEP 6 - Continue your cut - If the
saw begins to wander from the line,
twist the handle slightly and draw it
back to the line. If the saw is not
square to the lumber, bend it slightly
and gradually straighten it, but be very
careful not to kink the blade.
(Figure 86)
●
STEP 7 - Continue your cut - After
cutting several inches in the end of the
board, remove the saw and slide the
board back and reinsert the blade into
the saw kerf and continue cutting.
Continue your cut until complete.
(Figure 87)
FIGURE 85
FIGURE 86
FIGURE 87
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On the Job Activity
Objective 10:——————
Use a Level.
Introduction: Levels are very
delicate instruments and must be
handled carefully to ensure
accuracy. Levels should be
checked for accuracy periodically
and before use, especially if the
instrument has been dropped or
jarred.
Equipment and Supplies: For this On the Job Activity you need the following
equipment and supplies:
Four foot spirit level
Folding rule or steel tape
Pencil
Straightedge
Vertical and horizontal work surface
Level surface
STEP-BY-STEP
How to Level a Surface
A. Check Level for Accuracy
●
STEP 1 - Safety Equipment - The first step of any job is to securely fasten,
attach, or put on the required safety equipment. The use of a level requires a
hardhat and eye protection (goggles, safety-glasses, face shield). Once you have
correctly put on your safety equipment you are ready to begin using a level.
●
STEP 2 - Set base of level on flat, horizontal surface.
●
STEP 3 - Check bubble position in horizontal.
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●
STEP 4 - Adjust surface or location FIGURE 88
of level until bubble is centered;
mark position on surface.
NOTE: On a level surface, the
bubble will lie evenly positioned
between the lines on the vial.
(Figure 88)
●
STEP 5 - Rotate the level end for
end and position it on the exact
location; be sure to use the bottom
bubble. (Figure 89)
FIGURE 89
●
STEP 6 - Check the bubble position in the horizontal vial. The bubble will be
centered from this side also if the level is accurate. If the level is not accurate be
sure to replace or repair as necessary.
B. Level a Surface
●
STEP 1 - Visually check surface for irregularities and foreign matter such as dirt
and clean or replace surface as necessary.
●
STEP 2 - Set base of level carefully
and squarely on surface and check
the bubble position.
FIGURE 90
NOTE: The bubble will be displaced
toward the high end of the level.
(Figure 90)
●
STEP 3 - Adjust surface as
necessary.
●
STEP 4 - Take additional readings to level surface as required.
NOTE: Many factors, such as the type of surface and the material being used,
affect the number of readings that are required.
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FIGURE 91
How to Plumb a Surface
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C. Check Level for Accuracy (Figure 91)
●
STEP 1 - Place the base of the level against a flat,
vertical surface.
●
STEP 2 - Check bubble position in upper horizontal vial.
●
STEP 3 - Adjust surface or location of level until bubble
is centered; mark position on surface.
●
STEP 4 - Rotate the level, end for end, and position it on
the exact location of the bubble centered reading.
●
STEP 5 - Check bubble position in the upper horizontal
vial. The bubbles will be centered at this end also if level
is accurate.
D. Plumb a Surface
●
STEP 1 - Visually check surface for irregularities and foreign matter such as dirt and clean or replace surface as
necessary.
●
STEP 2 - Place base of level carefully and squarely against surface.
●
STEP 3 - Check bubble position in upper vial. The bubble will move toward one
end of the vial if the surface is not plumb. To plumb the surface, you just adjust it
in the direction of bubble displacement. (Figure 92)
FIGURE 92
●
STEP 4 - Adjust the surface as necessary.
●
STEP 5 - Take additional readings to plumb as required.
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Objective 11:——————
Select Guidelines for Power
Tool Safety.
Power tools are powered by a source
outside of the user. Electricity, air
(pneumatic), and gasoline are common
sources of power. Examples of power
tools are electric drills and pliers.
When working with power tools you
should always seek to follow these guidelines:
●
Always follow OSHA rules and
regulations.
●
Keep tools clean and in good
working condition.
●
Use GFCI equipped circuits or other
assured grounding system to power
AC powered tools. The GFCI circuit
must be placed at the source of AC
power.
●
Follow manufacturer’s maintenance
procedures.
●
Protect cutting edges.
●
Keep all tools accessories, such as
blades and bits, sharp.
Unit 7 - Materials and Tools
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●
Report any unusual noises, sounds,
or vibrations to your instructor or
supervisor.
●
Inspect tools and accessories
regularly. Ensure all safety
devices/shields are in place.
●
Keep tools in their proper place
when not in use.
●
Use the proper blade for the job
being done.
●
Do not attempt to operate any power
tool before being checked out by the
instructor on that particular tool. Use
of some tools require operator
certification.
●
Always wear eye protection and
appropriate safety equipment when
operating all power tools.
●
Wear face protection when necessary.
●
Wear proper respirator when
necessary to protect yourself from
exposure to hazardous materials.
●
Wear appropriate clothing for the job
being done.
●
Lift heavy objects and tools properly.
●
Do not distract a coworker who is
using a power tool.
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Objective 12:——————
Identify Common Carpentry
Power Tools and Select
Their Uses.
Just as there are many different hand tools that a carpenter will use on the job, there
are also many different power tools available. The tools below represent some of the
most common power tools and a carpenter should be familiar with each tool. Power
tools can be more dangerous to operate than hand tools and a carpenter should
always use them with caution and following safety guidelines.
FIGURE 93
●
Table saw – used to cut
lumber using the following
cutting methods: ripping,
crosscutting, mitering,
rabbeting, dadoing (Figure 93)
●
Radial arm saw – used to cut
lumber using the same cutting
methods as a table saw, but is
mostly used for crosscutting
(Figure 94)
●
Jointer – used to straighten,
plane, bevel, chamfer, taper,
and rabbet lumber (Figure 95)
FIGURE 94
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FIGURE 95
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●
Planer– used to straighten and
plane lumber (Figure 96)
FIGURE 96
FIGURE 97
●
Shaper – used to shape edges and
molding, make grooves, fluting, and
reeding (Figure 97)
FIGURE 98
●
Band saw – used to make irregular cuts,
circle cuts, and relief cuts (Figure 98)
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FIGURE 99
●
Bench grinder – used to sharpen tools,
grind and shape metal,
smoothing burrs and rough places
from metal (Figure 99)
●
Angle grinder – used for rough
sanding, grinding metal, grinding
concrete, polishing and buffing, and
removing rust (Figure 100)
●
Belt sander– used for rough
sanding, smooth sanding, and
grinding glass (Figure 101)
FIGURE 101
●
Reciprocating saw– used to make
irregular cuts, crosscutting, relief
cutting, pocket cutting (Figure 102)
FIGURE 102
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FIGURE 100
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●
Drill press– used for applications such as
drilling, boring, shaping, tapping, and
sanding (Figure 103)
FIGURE 103
●
Power miter saw– used for cutting
miters and crosscutting (Figure 104)
FIGURE 104
●
Circular saw – used for ripping,
crosscutting, and mitering lumber
(Figure 105)
FIGURE 105
●
Router – used for shaping edges,
rabbeting, beveling, dovetailing, mortising,
etc. (Figure 106)
FIGURE 106
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●
Hand drill – used for boring, drilling,
cutting holes with hole saws, mixing
materials (Figure 107)
FIGURE 107
●
Screwgun – used for driving and
removing wood screws, machine
screws, thread-cutting screws, and lag
bolts (Figure 108)
FIGURE 108
●
Hammer drill – used to drill holes in
masonry and concrete, wood, and other
materials and perform light chipping
FIGURE 109
work (Figure 109)
●
Pneumatic nailers and staplers –
used to apply sheathing, decking,
roofing, install framing, install finish
work, etc. (Figure 110)
FIGURE 110
●
Powder-actuated fastener– used to
attach building materials to steel and
concrete by driving pins into the
materials (Figure 111)
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FIGURE 111
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On the Job Activity
Objective 13:——————
Use a Drill.
Introduction: Using a portable drill is a
very common activity in carpentry.
Learning how to drill properly will help
promote a safe and efficient worksite.
Equipment and Supplies: For this On
the Job Activity you need the following
equipment and supplies:
Four foot spirit level
Folding rule or steel tape
Pencil
Straightedge
Vertical and horizontal work surface
Level surface
STEP-BY-STEP
●
STEP 1 - Safety Equipment - The first step of any job is to securely fasten,
attach, or put on the required safety equipment. The use of a drill requires a
hardhat and eye protection (goggles, safety-glasses, face shield). Once you have
correctly put on your safety equipment you are ready to begin using a drill.
●
STEP 2 - Check to see that the power to the drill is off. Some drills are equipped
with a locking trigger and you need to check to make sure the drill trigger is not
locked in place.
●
STEP 3 - Install the correct drill bit into the chuck of the drill and tighten with the
chuck key or with the hand tightening chuck ring depending on the type of drill
being used.
●
STEP 4 - Lay out the hole on the stock to be drilled.
●
STEP 5 - Place a scrap block of wood on the table. This block of wood prevents
the stock from splintering when the drill goes through the work and will also
prevent damage to the drill bit by not letting it contact the table.
●
STEP 6 - Plug the power cord into an outlet.
●
STEP 7 - Use a clamp to secure the stock firmly to the table.
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●
STEP 8 - Position the drill so it
will center on the layout mark.
●
STEP 9 - With the drill at a 90°
angle to the stock, slowly
squeeze the drill trigger.
●
STEP 10 - Continue drilling into
the stock until the hole is
completed. When making deep
cuts it is good practice to back
the drill out of the work now and
then to clear the wood chips from
the drill.
●
STEP 11 - Back the drill out of
the whole as you release the drill
trigger.
●
STEP 12 - Inspect the stock and
remove it from the clamps,
unplug the drill, and clean the
work area.
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On the Job Activity
Objective 14:——————
Use a Pneumatic Fastener.
Introduction: A pneumatic fastener can
greatly increase the speed of a construction
project, but it can also be very dangerous if
not properly used. Safe use of this piece of
equipment greatly increases the effectiveness
of the carpenter.
Equipment and Supplies: For this On the
Job Activity you need the following
equipment and supplies:
Electric air compressor with air hose
Fasteners designed for the pneumatic fastener to be used
Pneumatic fastener with manufacturer's instructions
Safety equipment
2 - 2" x 4" x 4' boards
STEP-BY-STEP
●
STEP 1 - Safety Equipment - The first step of any job is to securely fasten,
attach, or put on the required safety equipment. The use of a pneumatic fastener
requires a hardhat and eye protection (goggles, safety-glasses, face shield).
Once you have correctly put on your safety equipment you are ready to begin
using a pneumatic fastener.
●
STEP 2 - Check to see that all safety devices
are in place.
●
STEP 3 - Plug the air compressor into a
power outlet.
●
STEP 4 - Start the air compressor and adjust
the regulator to the pressure specified by the
manufacturer for the material being fastened.
●
STEP 5 - Load the fastener with fasteners
before it is connected to the compressor.
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●
STEP 6 - Connect the fastener to
the air hose while being sure the
fastener is pointed down and away
from anyone, including yourself.
●
STEP 7 - Check with your instructor
to make sure you have connected
the fastener correctly and for
approval to continue.
●
STEP 8 - Position the two pieces of
stock to be fastened together.
●
STEP 9 - Position the fastener
firmly on the stock and pull the
trigger.
●
STEP 10 - Continue discharging
fasteners until the job is complete to
your instructor's satisfaction.
●
STEP 11 - Disconnect the air hose
form the fastener and turn off the air
compressor and disconnect it from
the power outlet.
●
STEP 12 - Have your instructor
evaluate your work.
●
STEP 13 - Put away your equipment
and clean the work area.
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