Reclaimed Lumber Couch
PICTURE REAL COUCH
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page 1.
BUILD NOTES
MATERIALS
Looking for an interesting new project? Reclaimed Wood is a great
resource for someone looking to bring a more rustic feel to his or her
work. We utilized it here as the paneling for the couch, foregoing a
traditional apholstered approach to the frame. Even though we went for
a non traditional route with the frame, we still went all out on some nice
comfy custom cushions.
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The frame of this couch is all 2x4’s. The reclaimed wood serves only as
an exterior paneling, so make sure when picking up 2x4’s that you get
enough to properly support the frame.
We’re providing you with two diagrams for each part of the project : One,
a detailed list with specific measurements for each piece of wood you’ll
need to cut, the other: a detailed model for each section of the couch
you’ll be tackling.
Let’s get started!
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(14) 10’ 2x4’s For Framing
(2) 8’x4’ 3/4” Birch Plywood
Reclaimed Lumber (We used barn wood on this project)
Stain
Polyurethane
Glue
Nails
Screws
TOOLS
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Table Saw
Miter Saw
Circular Saw
Jig Saw (Or Router)
Orbital Sander
Belt Sander
Drill/Driver
Impact Driver
Tabletop Planer
16 Gauge Nail Gun
Compressor And Hose
Straight Edge
Framing Square
Safety Glasses
Measuring Tape
Staining And Poly Tools: Brushes, Rags, Etc
page 2.
THE FRAME
This is the frame of the couch. We’re going to break this up section by
section and show you how to get the job done. Here is a full diagram of
the frame you’ll be building:
36”
34 1/8”
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108”
page 3.
SIDE CONSTRUCTION
Let’s get started on building the sides. As you’ll notice on pieces E, F, G and H
there is a slight 7 degree angle. This is done to both help support the frame but
also provide a gentle slope for the back support.
7
SIDE PROFILE
G
1 1/2”
4 1/2”
1 1/2”
9 1/2”
1 1/2”
7 1/2”
3 1/2”
E
C
A
A
A
2 1/2”
1 3/4”
H
B
B
B
H
F
7
7
9”
5 1/4”
1 1/2”
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6”
1 1/2”
7.5”
1 1/2”
page 4.
SIDE CUT LIST
A
A
A
B
B
B
4 3/4”
B
B
B
C
9 3/4”
36”
C
36”
E
21 3/4”
D
32 1/4”
32 1/4”
E
29 3/4”
G
D
29 3/4”
G
A
F
29”
29”
H
H
13 1/4”
13 1/4”
13 1/4”
A
4 3/4”
F
H
A
H
3 1/2” x 1 1/2” x 10’ PINE STOCK
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page 5.
SIDE INSTRUCTIONS
1.
3.
Building the sides is pretty straightforward. You should still double check
your angles before you get too far into assembling everything. When
attaching your angled pieces you should always pre-drill a hole before
you add a screw in. This prevents the wood from splitting.
Once you’ve completed constructing each side, make sure to sand every
edge. The purpose of this is to insure the sides have an even surface so
the reclaimed wood can arrach the frame evenly.
4.
2.
We also recommend that you always use wood glue in addition to screws
to attach these 2x4’s together. The glue will help keep everything secured
together. Screws can loosen over time, but that is far less likely to occur
when wood glue is present.
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When you’re finished you should have something like this.
page 6.
SEAT CONSTRUCTION
Now let’s focus on the seat. We need to create a slope on the front and back of
this section to make this couch nice and comfy. Notice we’ve got two more 7
degree angle cuts: on the ends of piece P and the front of one of the I pieces
you’ll be using for the front middle support.
SEAT TOP
29”
6”
L
K
L
K
O
1 1/2”
6”
K
O
I
N
N
1 1/2”
I
8”
I
8 1/2”
L
L
M
J
M
M
I
21 3/4”
I
3 1/2”
22”
3 1/2”
22”
3 1/2”
J
21 3/4”
SEAT PROFILE
29 1/2”
7
N
O
L
J
I
12”
M
O
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J
page 7.
SEAT
3 1/2” x 1 1/2” x 10’
I
98”
J
K
6 1/4” 13 1/4”
I
98”
J
K
6 1/4” 13 1/4”
I
98”
K
13 1/4”
L
98”
M
12 1/4”
L
98”
M
12 1/4”
N
N
O
29 1/2”
29 1/2”
38”
M
12 1/4”
O
38”
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page 8.
SEAT
K
N
O
L
I
I
K
J
M
L
I
K
M
I
L
N
O
M
J
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page 9.
SEAT CONSTRUCTION
7.
5.
Building the middle section is also pretty simple. There is only one part
that might be a little tricky: We need a 7 degree angle on the front L
piece. Run it through a table saw with the blade angled at 7 degrees. This
will give you the angle you’re looking for.
Add on another I piece to the bottom for support, attaching it to either
side with the J pieces.
8.
6.
L
I
6.
L
N
I
L
N
I
N
L
Once you’ve attached pieces L & I to pieces N, attach the sides. Make
sure the seams are tight or you’ll get an awkward wiggle.
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When you’re finished attaching the sides together it should look similar
to this:
page 10.
BACK INSTRUCTION
The back is probably the easiest section to assemble. Make sure all P pieces are
cut at a 7 degree angle.
BACK REST FRAME
Q
P
P
Q
P
P
P
Q
P
R
P
R
P
P
P
P
R
BACK PROFILE
Q
7
P
R
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page 11.
BACK REST FRAME CUT LIST
P
20 1/4”
P
20 1/4”
Q
108”
R
101”
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
20 1/4”
P
20 1/4”
3 1/2” x 1 1/2” x 10’ PINE STOCK
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page 12.
BACK INSTRUCTION
11.
9.
Q
P
Start at the top: Attach piece Q from one side to the next.
10.
Let’s attach the back to the rest of the frame. Align piece R with your
seatback and screw it down first. Then you can focus on screwing in each
P piece to the top piece Q.
TIP:
Use your best judgment when adding in additional supports
depending on your project.
A good rule of thumb: you should always run a support or two in the
middle of the seating form. This is obviously where the most weight will
be applied day in and day out. Make sure there is proper support!
Now let’s build the rest of the back support. Cut all of your P pieces are
cut to a 7 degree angle at either end. This will give us a nice slope on
the back rest.
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page 13.
COMPLETED FRAME
TIP: In order insure that surfaces are even, you should take a belt
sander and smooth everything out.
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page 14.
LAYING DOWN THE BIRCH PLY
Let’s lay down the seat base. Notice how piece R is cut at a 7 degree angle
at the bottom. This helps it attach flush up against the seat base.
SEAT CUT LIST
90” x 22 1/2”
S
U
T
U
T
26 3/4” x 5 1/2”
22 1/2” x 11”
90” x 26”
V
4’ x 8’ x 3/4”
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page 15.
SEAT PROFILE
12.
T
S
U
7
Attach your pieces to the frame.
U
V
T
S
U
V
T
U
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page 16.
LET’S START WORKING ON THE RECLAIMED WOOD:
14.
This kind of lumber is all about character; so we recommend you take
your time and search for the perfect pieces. Take advantage of companies
based in smaller communities, sometimes you’ll find the best product in
unexpected places. We actually found our supply from a guy that takes
apart old barns all the way out in rural Iowa.
Now it’s time to lay down the reclaimed wood. This is your time to really
be creative in how you decide to lay on the boards. You can follow our
design or feel free to try something new!
Once everything is planed we can start laying on all of our pieces. Attach
the pieces to the frame using wood glue and a 16 gauge nail gun. Make
sure to fill all the nail holes in with wood putty when you’re finished.
13.
15.
We need to create a uniform thickness for all of our boards before we can
lay anything down. Run the back end through a planer to get your desired
thickness. (We went for 1/4”)
Let’s stain the ply. Pick whatever color works best for you, tape off the
sides and get to work!
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page 17.
16.
CUSHIONS
What couch isn’t complete without some nice comfy cushions? We
recommend you get these custom made by a specialized vendor. Obviously
style is up to you. We went with a 50’s vintage resturant-style booth cushion.
We strongly recommend laying down a couple coats of poly as well.
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page 18.
YOU’RE FINISHED!
Congratulations! You’re now the owner of a brand new couch. We’d love to see
what you made from this project plan. Visit Craftsman’s Facebook page and let
us know!
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page 19.