old news for young minds! Let’s look at our homes today and long ago. Families live in many kinds of houses. Some are old, some are new, some are big and some are small but all homes are special places for families. These houses are all over 100 years old. By Carolyn McCann Pictures from The City of Hamilton, Hamilton’s Herit age Volume 5 1 Griffin 1828 2 Hopkins 1810’3 3 Lochner 1844 4 Doctor 1830’s 5 apartments 1875 6 Spera 1874 1. The first settlers built log cabins on land in the Hamilton area. You can visit inside the Griffin family cabin in Ancaster. 2 & 3. Later, settlers built better homes of stone, wood or brick like the Hopkins house and Lochner Cottage in Flamborough. At first, homes had no indoor bathrooms, electricity or water taps. Homes improved when these were invented. 4 & 5. Sometimes, the downstairs was a business and the family lived upstairs. Visit this doctor’s office and home at the Dundas Historical Society Museum. Some family apartments were above stores like these in Dundas. 6 &7. As families and farms grew, they needed bigger houses. Farm houses, like the Spera house in Stoney Creek and Shaver house in Ancaster were larger than most of the homes in villages and towns. 8 & 9. Many people lived in smaller homes. Look at the Bastion house and its neighbours on Bay Street in Hamilton and the Kyle house in Dundas. 10 & 11. Houses could be attached ‘twin’ houses like the two on George St. or built in a row like Sandyford Place on Duke St. in Hamilton. Row houses are also called terrace or town houses. 12. The Pasedena Apartment Building on Bold St. in Hamilton was one of the first to be built here. Now these buildings are bigger and usually have elevators and balconies. 7 Shaver 1863 Winter 2011 Volume 4 , Issue 1 8. Bastion 1885 9 Kyle 1848 10 Moodie twin houses 1870 11 Sandyford 1856 12 Pasadena 1914 Some old homes are now museums. Battlefield House, The Children’s Museum, Dundurn Castle, Erland Lee, Fieldcote, and Whithern all began as family homes. Today, there are over a half million people living in Hamilton. What kind of home do you live in? When was your home built? Do your grandparents and cousins live in the same kind of house as you do? Take a walk around your neighbourhood and look at the builidings. Is your home part of a big building or town house complex? What other kinds of buildings are near your home? There’s lots to learn about homes in Hamilton!. Hamilton Historical Board c/o Heritage Presentation Coordinator Culture Division, City of Hamilton 77 James St. North, Suite 305, Hamilton, ON L8R 2K3 email: [email protected] Winter 2011 The McQUESTENS a true story of tragedy and triumph in Hamilton Presented by the Volume 4 , Issue 1 Thoughts from the HHB Chair A s I may have previously mentioned, the mission of the Hamilton Historical Board involves the appreciation, presentation, and celebration of Hamilton’s history and heritage. In that context, I often think of the City of Hamilton as the custodians of a museum. This museum houses thousands upon thousands of heritage artefacts including our communities, parks, waterfalls, monuments, trails, infrastructures, properties and buildings. Our city fathers and mothers are the trustees of this museum, and they in turn administer a municipal staff who oversee the museum’s operation. We are also fortunate to own several civic museums that I think of as galleries in the museum I call Hamilton. The image and operation of museums have changed over the years. When I was a child, museums were often dim, dusty places that displayed neglected and dead artefacts in cracked glass and wood cases. This is the image of a museum, which I grew up with. Join the celebration of the McQuesten family’s contributions to Hamilton Events to include: • Art Show at the Art Gallery of Hamilton • Music at Whitehern • Bus Tours • Walks & Talks • Illustrated Lectures And much more! For more information, visit www.hamiltonhistoricalboard.ca or email [email protected] Editorial guidelines can be found on our website www.hamiltonhistoricalboard.ca We assume no responsibility for unsolicited material. ©2011 By Hamilton Historical Board All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission of the publisher is strictly forbidden. historiCITY was founded by the Hamilton Historical Board in 2008. The HHB is committed to the education and preservation of Hamilton`s history and heritage. Fortunately, museums today have added a living dimension to those tired old exhibits. Museums foster interactivity between artefacts and visitors. Museums promote recognition that their artefacts were created and used for real purposes by real people leading real lives. Most museums foster the recognition that artefacts tell the stories that form an integral part of our heritage. All this is done through eye-catching didactics, and by museum interpreters / guides / docents. As I look upon Hamilton as being a museum, to what extent are these factors in its operation? Moreover, is the image of the museum a positive one that visitors will take away and encourage them to return? Let’s consider for a moment the image of the historic heart of our city -- downtown. I liken the downtown core to a museum’s central hall, the place most museum visitors enter first and where they get their first impression of the museum. What image does our downtown present? Apparently, according to all media accounts our central hall deters many Hamiltonians and visitors alike from ‘ever’ venturing there. Let’s make a visit there to find out why. Given Hamilton’s one-way street system, the main entrance to downtown from the west is appropriately called Main Street West. Most users of this speedway, which I walk daily, are busy texting, downing a Timmie’s double-double, or trying to time the green lights (aka beating the red lights). However, if they were to force themselves to concentrate, when they pass the corner of Main and Caroline streets they cannot but notice the erstwhile federal building. call Hamilton. It is its central hall. There the visitor can gaze in wonder at the spectacle of artefacts as similarly neglected as the federal building. These artefacts include many of the heritage properties surrounding Gore Park, for example Treble Hall on John Street North, the Royal Connaught Hotel at King and John Streets, and hidden away in a far corner, an empty showcase that once displayed the Lyric Theatre. On the brighter side, there are also the TH&B and CN rail stations, artefacts that have been saved and put on display. In the case of LIUNA Station, the conservators have taken some pains to invite the visitor to share some of the stories of the people who historically created and used this artefact. Other significant downtown artefacts that have been preserved include the Dominion and Watkin’s buildings, and more recently Victoria Hall and the Lister Building. But, like most of the heritage properties downtown, their stories are not displayed for the visitor to read and relate to. There are few didactics or interpreters available in the great hall of the museum I call Hamilton. Leading into the museum’s core, a renaissance hallway is also quietly undergoing construction along James Street North, although so many of the surviving artefacts in the hallway remain in a deplorable state of neglect. Recently, there has been increasing interest in providing the stories of this street. An upgrading of the museum great hall atrium garden is also on the books. However, it is unfortunate that the Gore Park Master Plan does not include revitalization of the historic properties surrounding this heritage green space. These peripheral artefacts will continue to languish behind ugly commercial facades. And so goes the image... One of the most exciting restoration projects underway in the museum I call Hamilton is happening up on the second floor. I am referring to Auchmar, which like our civic museums can be likened to a gallery in the museum. As you read this edition of historiCITY, you will discover Auchmar and its stories. I urge you to become personally involved in Auchmar by taking advantage of ‘hands-on’ opportunities that will soon be offered to aid in its renaissance. This museum I call Hamilton also comprises a number of annexes, for example the Ancaster, Stoney Creek, and Dundas annexes. Each museum annex displays its own unique artefacts, some beautifully preserved, some being restored, but others ignored. Again, too often, the stories of the artefacts in the annexes are not displayed or available. I could push the museum metaphor further, but space prevents me from doing so. This forlorn artefact is surrounded by extensive grey fields, which comprise the tattered remnants of our once-bustling south downtown. If perhaps a red light on Main forces them to stop and they take the time to truly see, they can also spot some really nifty, albeit crumbling, heritage artwork around the front entrance of the decaying edifice. For too many years now, this property has presented an increasingly negative image -- one akin to a dim and dusty place exhibiting a neglected and dead thing encased in cracked glass and wood. It is culturally criminal to allow our heritage to be neglected and disappear. Nor is it enough to merely restore our artefacts. It is critical that, with their preservation, we provide opportunities for everyone to interact with them and learn their stories. To that end I urge all of you to join HHB in being an active part of the museum metaphor by raising awareness of Hamilton’s history and heritage, and by encouraging young and old to visit, to explore, and to interact with the artefacts in the museum and its extensive halls, galleries, and annexes. When the stoplight finally changes and they venture further into the depths of Hamilton’s downtown, what other images might they encounter? This is the last time that I, as HHB Chair, will have the opportunity to reflect on Hamilton’s rich history and heritage in historiCITY. I am grateful for having had the privilege to do so. The Gore constitutes the historic centre of the museum I Cheers, Bill Manson, Chair, HHB 1 Winter 2011 Volume 4 , Issue 1 Plaquing News By Robert J. Williamson, Chair, Joint Plaquing Subcommittee, HHB Two commemorative HHB plaques were presented to the public during September 2010. JOCKEY CLUB PLAQUE THE FIRST ROYAL VISIT TO HAMILTON T O he last of the bronze metal plaques, “The Jockey Club”, which has been in storage since 2007, awaiting completion of Centre Mall renovations, has finally been temporarily installed in a new food pavilion that opened at the mall recently. It is attached to a wall inside the bright two-storey glass building near the corner of Kenilworth and Barton Streets. The interior of the pavilion is decorated with heritage photos of the old mall and race track. The plaque has been placed in an alcove with an architect’s elevation drawing of the original Jockey Club. The heritage setting is appropriate and the metal plaque will be safe from vandalism and theft. An official unveiling may be planned as part of the opening of the new mall in the future. n Sunday, September 19, 2010, almost 150 years to the day, a facsimile of a plaque recognizing the “First Royal Visit to Hamilton”, was unveiled at Victoria Park at a sesquicentennial celebration hosted by the Strathcona Community Council and the City of Hamilton. The following is the text as it appears on the plaque: Photo by Robin McKee, HHB Postcards, Local History and Archives HPL 2 When Edward, Prince of Wales, the future King Edward VII, made the first official state visit of British royalty to Canada, Hamilton was the last stop on the tour. The Prince arrived in the afternoon of September 18th, 1860 and was welcomed by thousands of Hamiltonians with a 21 gun salute at the Great Western Railway station on Stuart Street. A procession through the city took the Prince to the head of John Street, where he resided at Arkledun the estate of hardware merchant Richard Juson. The rest of his entourage occupied nearby Oakbank, the home of grocery merchant William P. McLaren. During the morning of September 19th, Prince Edward visited Hamilton’s innovative Central School on Hunter Street West. This was followed by a luncheon and later, a ball, held at the Royal Hotel on James Street North. The highlight of the day was the ceremonial inauguration of the Hamilton Waterworks. Adam Brown, Chairman of the Water Commissioners addressed the crowd and the Prince turned a steam valve to start the pump house engines, which were a crowning engineering achievement. The following day, His Royal Highness opened the 15th season of the Agricultural Association of Upper Canada at the new, unique Crystal Palace Exhibition Hall, in today’s Victoria Park. In the afternoon, the Prince had lunch with Sir Allan MacNab at Dundurn Castle. History came full circle on November 5th, 2009 when Edward’s descendent, Charles, Prince of Wales and his wife, Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall, great-greatgreat-granddaughter of Sir Allan MacNab, included Dundurn National Historic Site on their royal tour of Canada. Winter 2011 The Jewel on the Mountain: The Architecture of Auchmar By Bill King T he creation of Claremont Park began in the spring of 1852 and required more than two years to complete. In a remarkable achievement requiring much time, attention and money, 86 acres of middling pasturage on the mountain above Hamilton, speeckled with a few frame houses and barns, was transformed into a Scottish country estate in the wilds of Upper Canada. The Canadian Auchmar bore little resemblance to its namesake on the shores of Loch Lomond, where Isaac Buchanan’s father had reclaimed a share of his clan’s ancient grandeur with the purchase of a country retreat. The connection between the Canadian and Scottish Auchmars was mostly sentimental. Isaac Buchanan might have used his mountain land to build a cut-stone fortress with a manufactured magnificence that defied neighbours and landscape alike. Instead, he created a country estate like those he had come to know so well in the partridge hunts of his youth, designed in a variant of the domestic Gothic know as Picturesque. Architecturally, the Gothic Revival was less a school of building science than a built manifestation of literature and romance. Apostles of Greco-Roman harmony dismissed the new style as the untutored vanity of the newly enriched and to be sure, could underscore their argument by pointing to buildings which were famously hideous. Yet it may fairly be said that in the hands of a gifted compositor, the Revival could inspire new heights of creativity if not originality. Resplendent in their medieval associations, such buildings enchanted the few who could build and the many who could only admire. The Picturesque, as its name suggests, strove for a ‘painterly’ effect. Buildings and landscape were considered together. Like the artists from whom they drew inspiration, architects of the Picturesque sought to weave diverse elements into a dramatic and dynamic vista. The aesthetic called for steep vertical lines, intimate spaces and a complexity (even idiosyncracy) of design, producing bold profiles and varied silhouettes. Light, shade and shadow drew the eye and the picture even seemed to change with the movement of the sun. The sensitive employment of the Picturesque Gothic at Claremont Park produced a highly successful result, a manor with a gentle complexion which beckons rather than intimidates. Yet if an architect was engaged, no record of his participation has been found among the voluminous documents preserved in the Buchanan family papers. More likely, Isaac sought the assistance of a master builder and adapted a design from a pattern book such as Loudon’s Encyclopaedia of Cottage, Farm and Villa Architecture. The Encyclopaedia featured several examples of the form adopted at Auchmar: a low, broad house anchored by a pair of prominent gabled pavilions, an inheritance from the days of the Tudors. The original concept called for identical recessed wings extending from either end of the main house on the south side. This design further enlivened the garden façade. Auchmar House was built at the head of a long lane which originated beside a Gatekeeper’s Lodge on the mountain brow. Volume 4 , Issue 1 Flanked by trees, the lane passed through the old orchard and curved as Auchmar House came into view, its tall chimneys, clusters and steep gables seeming to rise on the horizon. The earliest known depiction of Auchmar House is a sketch of the fancifully trimmed manor and a landscaped garden drawn in 1859. The exterior walls were of brick surfaced with roughcast stucco. Eleanor Buchanan, who visited in the early 1900s, recalled walls painted a deep cream colour which, she thought, must have reminded her great-grandfather of the budding gorse which blanketed the Scottish countryside in the colour of springtime. The Gothic requirement for cloistered spaces and ecclesiastical overtones found expression in a hall which ran the length of the main house with a sweeping staircase at each end. At the west end, a smaller hall bisected the main hall, providing access to large rooms reserved for formal entertaining in the evenings. The drawing room was in the northwest corner, its bow window overlooking sloping lawns and gardens. A French door led to a glazed terrace along the garden side of the house. Eleanor Buchanan recalled windows set in well-carved arches, a white marble fireplace surmounted by a portrait of Queen Victoria, and a colour scheme of white and gold. The adjoining west wing contained rooms for billiards and cards. The wing was a private, almost secret place, accessible only by way of a tiny Gothic door tucked under the landing of the west staircase. It was conveniently out of reach to those who restricted pleasures to those of the redemptive variety, content to while away the evening listening to father read a three-hour sermon. Unfortunately, however, the position of the Games Wing prevented a window on the west wall of the drawing room which was therefore bathed in shadows once the sun passed over the house. For this reason, it seems that later owners retained the brightening colour scheme of white and gold. East of the drawing room there are presently several smaller rooms. It is said that at one time Agnes Buchanan used two of them as a bedroom and dressing room and indeed, the fact that Agnes was so often pregnant during her years at Auchmar House would recommend a bedroom on the ground floor. It has recently been discovered, however, that the original plan was quite different. Craig Sims, a nationallyknown restoration technologist who has studied Auchmar House for the City of Hamilton, discovered that the two rooms east of the drawing room were originally one, a large formal dining room much like the one at Dundurn. On its south wall were twin fireplaces and cabinetry set in an elliptical arch. Opposite, three French windows opened onto the terrace. The cabinetry at Auchmar was the work of George Murison, whose installations in the dining room and library melded seamlessly with mouldings and standing trim. Murison was a master of his craft. Doors and trim were fashioned from eastern white pine and their surfaces grained to suggest white oak. (Genuine oak was reserved for the balustrades.) The liberal use of wood in Auchmar House provided a sense of warmth which increased with time as it was coaxed with beeswax to a rich glow. Murison also built a portico at the working entrance, facing Fennel Avenue at the east end of the house. This entrance was beside Isaac’s library, where a window offered a discreet 3 Winter 2011 The Jewel on the Mountain: The Architecture of Auchmar Cont... By Bill King glimpse of visitors. Unlike the formal chambers at the west end of the house, the library, an intimate room with built-in bookcases, a bow window, and a chimney piece of bluish grey marble, was the only one of its kind remaining at Auchmar. Other rooms in this part of the house have been identified as morning room, family dining room, and office. The adjoining east wing, proximate to the stable yard, accommodated a kitchen and rooms for servants. Upstairs there were fourteen rooms which varied greatly in size. The larger, in the pavilions, provided accommodation for adult Buchanans and their guests. The smaller could be consigned to Nursie and her growing number of charges. Volume 4 , Issue 1 the electors of Wentworth assembled on the south lawn. It was at this time that major changes were made at Auchmar. In 1862, the room in the southwest corner was extended with a rounded bay to become a ‘dancing room’ which could also accommodate a large table for banquets. A new ceiling was garlanded by plasterwork depicting grapes and vines. It was likely also at this time that the east wing was enlarged to accommodate an improved kitchen and service areas, assuming the long rectangular shape which may be seen today. When Isaac was profiled in Celebrated Canadians in 1863, he was attempting to sell portions of his park for villa lots but unfortunately, economic conditions in the year of the American Civil War were such that there is no record of a single lot being sold. Later years would bring further changes. The Games Wing was removed in the late 1800s by Captain Trigge, probably due to foundation defects which have caused persistent cracks in the walls in this part of the house. When Elsie Buchanan reclaimed Auchmar in 1901, further upgrades and design alterations were made under the supervision of architect Charles Mills. The house has also served as a hospital and a convent, and parted with much of its acreage for residential development. Yet the basic features of Claremont Park may still be seen. That an estate of such extent and sophistication should have appeared in the woods of Upper Canada is a truly remarkable event, but more remarkable still is the fact that the essential features of Auchmar House and its park have survived 158 years so well that they would be readily recognizable to Isaac and Agnes Buchanan if they were to return today. The creation of Claremont Park was a rich legacy to the people of Hamilton. Ten years ago, the estate was of interest mostly to rapacious developers. Now, as restoration begins, it attracts appreciation admirers far and wide who watch as a Picturesque landscape hidden for generations begins to re-emerge. Drawing room, www.hauntedhamilton.com Claremont may have been the secluded retreat of a moneyed merchant, but it was also a working estate which was required to provide sustenance to several human families and a menagerie of lower creatures. The varied buildings and structures of the estate may have been integral components of the Picturesque but they served more functional purposes as well. Equally necessary was the vast cellar beneath Auchmar House itself, a back-breaking feat of excavation with ceilings ten feet high. The cellar was cavernous and dim, its tiny windows set high in the wall and crossed by iron bars. It accommodated a maze of rooms for storage of fruits and vegetables, preserved meat and fowl, and delicacies and liquors imported by the Buchanan firm. There were beer and wine cellars with stone shelves. By the summer of 1853 the Buchanans had moved into Auchmar, even as construction continued around them. The family of seven was accompanied by a liberal retinue of servants including nurse, tutor, and houseman. In the next decade, five more children would arrive. By the early 1860s, Isaac Buchanan had achieved a controversial reputation as railway magnate, economist, and M.P. for Hamilton. He was a supporter of the ministries of John A. Macdonald and would serve (albeit briefly) in the cabinet. Macdonald was often a guest at Auchmar, addressing 4 Auchmar Challenge Fund Heritage Hamilton Foundation, founded in 1977 with a mandate to encourage the preservation of Hamilton’s built heritage, has long recognized the significance of the Auchmar Estate a prime heritage feature of which Hamiltonians are justly proud. The house and grounds, in addition to their historical importance, are outstanding examples of mid-nineteenth century architecture and landscape, and fully deserve to be restored as a resource for Hamiltonians. The Foundation has accordingly set aside $25,000.00 in an AUCHMAR CHALLENGE FUND. Donations from the public up to a total of $25,000.00 will be matched dollar for dollar and will be directed toward the restoration of the main entry of the manor house. Donations in any amount are welcome; income tax receipts will be issued for amounts of $20.00 and above. Cheques should be made out to Heritage Hamilton Foundation and mailed to: Heritage Hamilton Foundation P.O. Box 89016, Westdale Postal Outlet Hamilton, Ontario L8S 4R5 This is a hugely exciting opportunity for the community to be involved in restoring Auchmar. Overwhelm us! For more information, call 905-527-4503 Winter 2011 Volume 4 , Issue 1 Sir Isaac Buchanan & William Lyon Mackenzie: The Rebellion of Upper Canada: 1837-1838 By Dr. Mary Anderson, HHB I saac Buchanan (1810-1883) was the owner of the Auchmar estate on the Hamilton Mountain at the corner of today’s Fennel Avenue and West 5th. He was a wealthy wholesaler and retailer with establishments in Scotland, Toronto and Hamilton. He was one of the most influential men in Upper Canada at the time of William Lyon Mackenzie’s Rebellion in 1837-38. Buchanan and Mackenzie had some of the same reform goals; however, Buchanan did not advocate violent rebellion. They were both critical of the Upper Canada government because of the anti-democratic and corrupt form of government that they observed in the “Family Compact” monopoly. William Lyon Mackenzie (1795-1861) had a fiery temperament and grew impatient with any slower movement toward reform. He owned a newspaper and wrote many articles objecting to the government and demanding a reform of government on republican lines, similar to the United States. When his written protests came to no avail, he decided that open rebellion would be necessary. On December 7, 1837, Mackenzie gathered some Reform supporters together at Montgomery’s Tavern in Toronto and decided to march down Yonge Street to attempt to overthrow the government. Unfortunately for Mackenzie, his reformers were poorly organized and he hesitated too long while he wrote yet another treatise to fire up his men. In the delay, Colonel Allan MacNab and his government supporters were able to organize to suppress the rebellion. During this time, Isaac Buchanan accepted a commission in the local militia and served in Toronto and on the Niagara frontier. Mackenzie and his men were forced to flee. Those who escaped were scattered and fled for their lives. Those who were captured were hanged. Mackenzie, the leader, escaped and fled to the United States. Along the way, he hid in a cave on the Sydenham Hill above Dundas, and he was assisted by supporters who supplied him with new horses in his flight. Mackenzie was tried in absentia and was exiled with other reformers. In the US he became a citizen but was finally tried and jailed for anti-neutrality activities. He served a sentence for a year but was soured on the US system thereafter. As Mackenzie languished in exile, he desired to return to Canada. Isaac Buchanan had continued to agitate toward reform by peaceful means. He warned that another rebellion was imminent unless more equitable changes were made in government. Reform did finally occur in 1848 when Upper and Lower Canada formed a new democratic parliament of the Province of Canada, and received responsible government. In the elections for the 3rd Parliament of the Province of Canada, the Reformers won, and enacted sweeping reforms, which included an amnesty act for the rebels of 1837. It passed the Assembly in February 1849, and Mackenzie asked influential Reformers such as Isaac Buchanan and others to lobby for amnesty for himself, even though he was now a US citizen. The new government and its supporters such as Buchanan came to realize that those who had fomented the Rebellion had actually been instrumental in bringing about responsible government in Canada. Isaac Buchanan eventually determined that those who had caused the Rebellion should be granted amnesty and he lobbied for Mackenzie’s freedom. Mackenzie had already grown disenchanted with the US republican form of government. He was an inveterate reformer, and eventually found that any form of government that he encountered, needed reforming. He continued to print protests. When Mackenzie returned to Canada, he had many supporters and resumed his career in politics. In 1851 he won the election for a seat in the Parliament of the Province of Canada. For the next seven years, Mackenzie was the loudest advocate in the Assembly for the cause of “true reform.” He continued to expose corruption wherever he found it and even the highest offices were not safe from his scrutiny. Colonel Allan Napier MacNab and Isaac Buchanan were both knighted for their role in quelling the Rebellion. The Early Life of Isaac Buchanan By Bill King, HHB I saac Buchanan was born on July 21, 1810. During the Napoleonic Wars, his father settled the family in Glasgow where he prospered in the textile trade and acquired part of the ancient lands of the Clan Buchanan on Loch Lomond, including a retreat called Auchmar. Isaac had an academic bent and prepared to attend the Glasgow College, but for whatever reason, he abandoned this plan at the age of fifteen in favour of a position with the trading firm of William Guild. In 1830, the firm sent Isaac to Montreal where he helped to establish a branch store. Though often lonely and ill in Canada, Isaac found conditions promising. However, he concurred with his elder brother, Peter, that the future lay to the west and in 1832 they invested the proceeds of their father’s estate in a wholesale dry-goods firm based in Toronto. Peter was proving a shrewd businessman and a source of steady advice to his younger brother, not all of which was appreciated. In particular, Isaac consistently ignored his brother’s demands that he stay away from politics. Isaac found Upper Canada dominated by “The Family Compact” which, he became convinced, would lead the province to ruin. He befriended William Lyon Mackenzie but when rebellion came he remained loyal and served in the militia. After a short time in Britain following the defeat of Mackenzie, he returned to Canada and opened a dry goods store in Hamilton in 1840. In the election of 1841, Isaac proved a fiery candidate for the Reform Party. But although successful his passion waned. He returned to Scotland, and in 1843 married seventeen-year-old Agnes Jarvie, a graduate of Anderson’s Ladies Academy and mistress of several languages including Hebrew. But Isaac still viewed Canada as the best hope for his family’s prosperity. Later he and Agnes set sail for Canada and with their baby son Peter, set up home in Hamilton in a house on Henry Street. The Buchanans did not decide to settle in Canada permanently until 1851. Shortly thereafter, plans for the Canadian Auchmar were under way. 5 Winter 2011 Volume 4 , Issue 1 Postscripts to History The Gatekeeper’s Lodge Watches & Waits T I By Mary Anderson, PhD homas Baker McQuesten (1882-1948) was an avid student of history and in his family’s collection of letters he read about the Rebellion and about the threat to his own family at that time. On January 7, 1837 (the very date of the Rebellion) John Fisher in Hamilton wrote in great fear to his cousin Dr. Calvin McQuesten in New York: “We are in the beginning of a Civil War.” They had suffered hostility, had sent their children back to the US, and they feared for their own safety (see www. whitehern.ca; W-MCP4-6.193). In 1937-38 approximately 100 years after the Rebellion, the Hon. Thomas B. McQuesten, as Chair of the Niagara Parks Commission, approached Prime Minster William Lyon Mackenzie King (Mackenzie’s grandson) to participate in a plan to build a Memorial Arch at Niagara in commemoration of Mackenzie and his role in bringing responsible democratic government to Canada. In the building of the Memorial Arch at Niagara, McQuesten and his architect, William Lyon Somerville, decided to celebrate all of the reformers in the art work on the Arch including both the “patriots” and the “traitors.” At the unveiling, Prime Minister King objected to the celebration of both on the Memorial Arch, as he wished to celebrate only Mackenzie’s men. He preferred to view the others as criminals; however, McQuesten had a more comprehensive view of history, and so included the names of the “traitors” in bas-relief on the Arch. The Arch had been designed mainly for a walking public and when traffic became too heavy, the road was widened and the arch was destroyed in 1968. Fortunately, one of the scavengers of historical memorabilia managed to retrieve the bas-relief sculptures from the scrap-yard and they are currently on display in the side-yard of the Mackenzie House and in other locations in Toronto. For instance, Tom craftily included a sculpture medallion of HMS St. Lawrence on the arch and it now stands near the St. Lawrence Market in Toronto. It was the ship on which his grandfather, Thomas Baker, had served during the War of 1812 and it was the ship that was a significant factor in winning the war of 1812 on Lake Ontario which served to bring peace between the US and Canada. The Rainbow Bridge at Niagara which was built by McQuesten, and which is jointly owned by the US and Canada. It stands today as a symbol of that peace between these two nations.. At Niagara, the Mackenzie House and Printery was also restored by Hon. Thomas B. McQuesten during his campaign to restore the forts and other historical locations in Ontario. At Niagara, the Mackenzie House and Printery contains one of the oldest printing presses in Canada. It stands today to commemorate both the political reformer and the transformative power of the printed word. 6 Winter 2011 no longer resist the inevitable. A post-war world brought not only post-war dreams, but the technology to transform them into reality. With a car now within reach of the ordinary man and woman, the mountain would finally have a population. The subdivision which had eluded the ambitions of previous generations quickly took shape, spanning the old orchard wall and the mountain brow. Claremont Heights was centered on two main avenues with large building lots. Arcade followed the old lane from the Gatekeeper’s Lodge to Auchmar House. Some of Isaac Buchanan’s chestnut trees were even preserved in a park half way along. Each avenue terminated in a cul-desac with large lots backing onto the remaining nine acres of grounds around Auchmar House. The new subdivision was a model of good planning and, equally important, successfully managed to preserve the essential features of Claremont Park. By Martha Ronalds saac Buchanan’s Gatekeeper’s Lodge may not be the oldest building on Claremont Drive, but it is the most intriguing, the most historic and undoubtedly the most patient. Even before Isaac Buchanan commenced building his Claremont Park estate in 1852, there were several humble dwellings on the mountain’s edge and a few lavish ones including Chedoke, which has been preserved and deeded to the people of Ontario, and Bellvue, demolished a decade ago by an owner who achieved his goal by allowing it to crumble. The Gatekeeper’s Lodge joined this historic group about 1853 when it appeared beside a green gate at the foot of a lane, nearby a black walnut tree said to be 250 years old. Buchanan’s Gatekeeper’s lodge was Auchmar House in miniature, as charming as it was tiny, its steep gables bedecked with gingerbread trim. It stood guard at the entrance to the great park of Claremont, a quaint miniature of the manor house a quarter-mile distant. It contained a mere four rooms, with a central stove and an outside entrance to the cellar. The Gatekeeper’s Lodge would have a long life and would see much change. It undoubtedly shed a tear in 1875, when Isaac Buchanan lost Claremont Park to creditors. And it tremored a little in 1890 when Watson Walton, investment banker and ice merchant, built a stately mansion next door, so large that it seemed to elbow the Lodge out of the way. Walton Watson was one of the lesser-known eccentrics in a neighborhood with a plentiful supply. With deep angles and a squat round turret, Walton’s new home echoed the architectural severity which was descending on the city below but it was probably the only residence of its kind to appear on the mountain. Watson was an enthusiast of the latest thing. When he discovered that his electric car (the first in Hamilton) couldn’t operate in reverse, he installed a turntable in his garage. He even dreamt of replicating the city’s humble eastern quarter on the mountain, buying land and plotting with his neighbour, Colonel Chisholm, to transform Buchanan’s ancient park into a teeming network of narrow houses and narrower alleys. And when he realized that the plan might be hampered by the difficulty of access for working men with no vehicle at all, he devised a solution for that problem too. The Hamilton & Barton Incline Railway was an instant success. Visitors ascended the mountain in droves. They came for ice cream, for amusements at the Mountain View Hotel and for summer theatre. But above all, they came to admire a view of unrivalled magnificence. Ambling along Claremont Drive they gazed north and saw the future in a pastiche of steeples, smokestacks and towers arrayed under low sulphurous clouds. But like their fathers, they also saw the blue sky, the turquoise lake and the verdant hills which rolled beyond the horizon, a setting which imparted a special quality to the Head-of-theLake. Volume 4 , Issue 1 But having taken in these heady pleasures, the visitors to Mount Hamilton did the one thing Walton Watson did not intend: they went back home. The anticipated subdivision came to naught. For years to come the mountain would remain ‘Barton Township’, a rustic and neglected appendage to the bustling city below. And the Gatekeeper’s Lodge continued to watch and wonder. At the Gatekeeper’s Lodge, the Embelton family was succeeded by the Kools, who had sought refuge from Holland during the war. John Kool began life in Canada as gardener for the Youngs. He and his resolute wife kept their tiny home in pristine condition, planting flowers and extending a proud welcome to curious visitors. In 1970, they opened their doors to Mayor Vic Copps and an entourage of dignitaries for the unveiling of an historical plaque which reminded neighbours that their little house occupied a surprisingly large place in history. So proud were Mr. and Mrs. Kool of the plaque that they put it in their garage for safekeeping. It breathed a sigh of relief when the Liquor Commission put an end to the fantastic goings-on at Mountain View Hotel, and it beamed with pride in 1901, when Elsie Buchanan returned to Claremont in grand style. It looked on nervously during the Great War, when the Hotel opened its doors to recruits awaiting dispatch to the trenches of France. And it shed a tear in 1926 when Elsie, reduced to poverty, was forced to abandon Auchmar. By this time, Claremont Drive had become fully populated by a diverse line of large homes. Next door, a steel executive purchased the old home of Walton Watson and rebuilt it as an authentic replica of a Norman chateau. The Gatekeeper’s Lodge was proud to have neighbours of such distinction, but like them, was mightily annoyed in 1968 when the Claremont Access overshot the mountain and reduced the broad avenue to a perilously narrow strip of concrete. The remaining portion of Claremont Park was purchased from Elsie by a young Hamilton businessman named Allan Vernon Young. Auchmar’s new master had become the local king of cotton at an early age but his wife Edna reserved her passion for the sport of kings and Claremont Park was recalled delightfully to life. There were steeplechases and the children learned to ride and jump. From the stables near Auchmar house, horses galloped through open fields to the brow. Handsome Larkspur showed at the Winter Fair. The Youngs’ stable-master, Harry Embelton, settled into the Gatekeeper’s Lodge with his wife and four young children. It was a tight fit to be sure, with two girls in the second bedroom and two boys on the landing. The Embeltons ambled about the neighbourhood in their 1929 Ford, happy to see a single passerby. It is now more than 150 years since the appearance of the Gatekeeper’s Lodge. It has looked on quietly as a world grew up around it, a place out of time. Sadly, subsequent owners have not shared the appreciation of the Embeltons and the Kools, assaulting the Lodge with awkward alterations and begrudging even modest repairs. At a time when the restoration of Auchmar House is becoming a reality, it is sadly ironic that the future of one of the most important elements of the Buchanan estate has grown increasingly uncertain. When war came again, the Youngs loaned Auchmar to the Air Force for use as a convalescent hospital. They intended to return but after a thorough inspection during which Edna looked with memorable dismay at the acres of linoleum which now covered her hardwood floors, they changed their minds. Auchmar was sold to an order of nuns as a place of repose, but if the manor house was in retreat, the Claremont estate could 7 Winter 2011 Volume 4 , Issue 1 What`s in a Name? The origin of familiar names in Hamilton Written and Edited by Bill Manson, HHB Buchanan (“house of the cannon?”) is a clan name of territorial origin referring to lands in Stirlingshire in Scotland bordering Loch Lomond. Prior to the adoption of the name Buchanan, the clan was known as MacAuslane, claiming descent from the King of Ulster in Ireland. When the MacAuslane Clan helped King Malcolm II to repel the Danes, they received the lands of Buchanan, and eventually adopted the territorial name as their clan name. The Buchanan lands, lying to the east of Loch Lomond, remained in the family for almost seven centuries, and it can be argued that the Buchanans have the oldest established clan society in Scotland. Auchmar refers today not only to Sir Isaac Buchanan’s estate here in Hamilton, but also to a retreat on the ancient lands of the Clan Buchanan on Loch Lomond, in Scotland. However, Auchmar was not originally a place name, but the name of a family that married into the mainline Buchanan Clan around 1560. When the mainline Buchanan Clan became extinct around 1682, the chieftainship passed to the Auchmar branch of the Buchanans. In turn when the Auchmar Buchanan line became extinct, their lands were sold to the Marquess of Montrose in 1816 and the remnants of the clan became dispersed. Claremont (“clear mountain” Fr.) is the name Isaac Buchanan used to refer to the lands around his estate, Auchmar. The name remains today in the Claremont Access and Claremont Drive. Henry Street was the name of today’s Cannon Street East between James and John streets when Isaac Buchanan arrived in Hamilton. The origin of the street name is unknown (Christian? or surname?). The Family Compact “Compact governments” or “compacts” were conservative cliques that ruled colonies, particularly in British North America prior to the granting of responsible government. The best-known one was the “Family Compact” a group of powerful men who held power through the legislative assembly, the executive council, senior bureaucratic positions, and the judiciary in the Province of Upper Canada. The group emerged after John Graves Simcoe, Upper Canada’s first lieutenant-governor, attempted to create a local aristocracy by appointing his Loyalist friends to government posts and granting them land. Their power grew after the end of the war of 1812, and they managed to hold power until around 1848 when responsible government was final granted. The term “family” was a derogatory one coined by opponents to the group. Winter 2011 At Home with the Buchanans Emancipation Day Picnic By Margaret Houghton A I saac Buchanan had made his first visit to Canada in 1830 and returned to Scotland in 1841, and it was during this same time that he successfully courted Agnes Jenny Jarvie, second daughter of Robert Jarvie of Glasgow. She had been born January 12, 1826 and educated at Anderson’s Ladies’ Academy in Edinburgh, a school quite famous in its time. Isaac and Jenny were married in Glasgow, Scotland on January 27, 1843. The groom was 32 years of age and the bride had just turned 17, thus being just shy of half his age. Buchanan and his young bride sailed for Canada the same year as the wedding and arrived in Toronto in November of 1843. Their first child, Peter, was born in Toronto and, in 1844 while he was still an infant, the young family moved to Hamilton. The Buchanans went on to have a total of 11 children: Volume 4 , Issue 1 engraving of the ceremony was published in the Canadian Illustrated News of September 12, 1863. On the front page of that same issue is an engraving of Agnes Buchanan whom they refer to as Peter Toronto Buchanan (1844-1898), Jane Milligan Buchanan (1846-1937), Robert Andrew Washington Buchanan (1848-1852), Margaret Douglas Buchanan (1850-1910), Harris Buchanan (1851-1903), Isaac Robert Buchanan (1852-1884), James Isaac Buchanan (18531931?), Agnes Evelyn Buchanan (1856-1882), Robert Jarvie Buchanan (1858-1940), Douglas Buchanan (1860-1928), Helen Elizabeth Jamieson Buchanan (1865-1951) uchmar, located on the mountain brow on the 86 acres of land Buchanan called Claremont Park, was built between 1852 and 1854. The house became known as a focus for entertaining their guests ranging from quiet visits from Governors’ General and politicians to the hosting of the local black community for an Emancipation Day picnic on August 1, 1859. This latter event was attended by an estimated 600 people. This was the 25th anniversary of the emancipation of the slaves by Britain. Those in attendance were served a sumptuous feast that included roast beef, fowl, pies and pastries of all kinds, as well as boxes of oranges and barrels of lemonade. Buchanan called for a “co-operative scheme with the south for the abolition of slavery by 1900.” After the festivities, those in attendance gave “three cheers for Mr. Buchanan, whose kindness had procured for them a day of unalloyed pleasure. The cheers were heartily given and followed by three deafening ones for Mrs. Buchanan.” When hard times fell on the Buchanans in the 1870s, Auchmar was sold and they moved into rented quarters at 95 James Street South. It was at this address that Isaac Buchanan died on October 1, 1883, aged 73. Agnes Buchanan died thirteen years later on May 7, 1896 aged 71, while living at 163 James Street South. They are both buried in the Buchanan plot in Hamilton Cemetery. Isaac and Agnes immediately felt at home in Hamilton and enthusiastically joined in the many activities available for business men and their wives. Both Isaac and Agnes Buchanan believed whole heartedly that those with the money should support “good works” in their community and they donated money and time to most of the charities extant in Hamilton during this time. They were particularly interested in education and donated prizes to schools both in Hamilton and Toronto. They also believed in education for the masses and actively supported the Hamilton & Gore Mechanics’ Institute that offered educational opportunities to the working men of Hamilton. One of the accomplishments that he was most proud of was the establishment of the first permanent militia unit to be formed in Hamilton: the 13th Battalion Volunteer Militia Infantry. He helped to found it in 1862 and in February of 1863 was named LieutenantColonel of the regiment. On September 1, 1863, according to Semper Paratus the history of the battalion: The battalion paraded to Christ’s Church Cathedral to witness the consecration of the colours by the Rev. J. Campbell [sic Gamble] Geddes. A few days later the Colours were formally presented to the Battalion by Mrs. Buchanan, wife of the commanding officer. The Buchanan family plot in Hamilton Cemetery. Photo by Robin McKee “One of the most notable ladies of Upper Canada, identified as she has been with many religious and philanthropic enterprises of the Province… Mrs. Buchanan is a lady of fine mental culture, and possessed of originality of thought, a clear perception of ideas with pleasing conversational powers. She is courteous and hospitable in her nature, and munificent in her charities… Mrs. Buchanan is accomplished as a linguist, and excels in painting and music, particularly in the latter, to the frequent delight of the many guests of “Auchmar House.”” The ceremony was covered by the local media and a full page 8 9 Winter 2011 Volume 4 , Issue 1 AUCHMAR - The War Story I took the film to Jon Soyka, President of the Hamilton Video-Film Makers and he converted it from 8 mm to VHS video tape and then to a digital file in a computer. The three films had to be synchronised so the story they told would flow easily and a script should be written to explain the medical treatments and the patients’ vigourous activities. Jon tweaked it a little bit and suggested we interview any former patients. Two former airmen who were patients, Warrant Officers Dean Taylor and Bill Carey and a local woman named June Cooper who, as a teenager, went to Auchmar on dance nights or to write letters for the patients were interviewed on film to give their memories of that time and what it was like living in or visiting Auchmar during the war years. Jon also made a number of suggestions to improve the story line and to eliminate the odd blurred or dark areas on the film. By Stewart Leslie P eople often ask me how the story of Auchmar in the war years came about. It began when the Alan Young family went north to their summer property on Lake Muskoka which was nearby BEAUMARIS, the summer home of another Hamiltonian, Francis Farwell and his family. The Farwells had leased their property to the Military for use as RCAF Convalescent Hospital No. 1. The Alan Young Family was influenced by the sight of badly burned aviators at Beaumaris and thus, on August 15th, 1943, they leased their home, Auchmar, to the RCAF for the duration of the war. On October 9th, 1943 seven badly burn patients were transferred from Beaumaris to the new RCAF Convalescent Hospital No. 2 at Auchmar in Hamilton. They were accompanied by Nursing Sister Hazel Hughes a specialist in burn therapy and Corporal Alice Vousden, the boys favourite cook. F/ L. Philip A. Voelker, M.D. later Squadron Leader, was in charge of the rehabilitation of the injured airmen. Winter 2011 One of the founders of the Hamilton Mountain Heritage Society, the Rev. T. Melville Bailey suggested at a director’s meeting that the Millennium year, 2000 was approaching and it would be an appropriate time for the society to publish a pictorial history of “Hamilton Mountain.” We borrowed photographs, stories and memorabilia from people who lived or had grown up in the area and the book has been a huge success and currently is in its fourth printing. When one of the team, Doug Embleton, who had grown up on the Auchmar Estate where his father Hank was the stable master and trainer of the Young’s hunting and jumping horses, returned two photographs he had borrowed from Mrs. Viva Voelker in Waterloo, she asked him if the society would be interested in three rolls of colour film that her husband had shot at Auchmar in 1943. At that time, Hollywood had only released two coloured films,”Gone With The Wind” and “The Wizard of Oz “ both in 1943 so it was a mystery how Dr. Voelker had managed to get the film and a camera. Volume 4 , Issue 1 I was interviewed by Dan McLean on CHCH TV in 1985 when the pictorial history book “Hamilton Then and Now” was published by the Head-of-the-Lake Historical Society. It was a fun interview and when I later told him about the Auchmar film, he was anxious to preview it also. However, the new film was 29 minutes long which did not leave any time for commercials on a half hour segment. He asked if a commentary about Auchmar which was not well known at that time, could be added to bring it up to 47 minutes which would leave 13 minutes for commercials. Jon Soyka took the scenes that introduce the film and other photos of the interior and exterior of the house and grounds used as a backdrop for the historic importance of Auchmar by Nina Chapple, a former City of Hamilton Heritage Planner. The manager of CHCH phoned me and inquired about the film. He rejected it for their use because the original material had been filmed by an amateur photographer! He had not even seen the film! Pianist Paul Benton was given a copy of the new tape which had no sound and he figured out the music that the band was playing on dance nights and suggested music popular at that time for the background. George Hall a former RCAF / RAF pilot and a retired CHML radio announcer felt a strong bond with the airmen in the film and agreed to read the script. Photos courtesy of Mrs. Voelker appear on page 53 of Mountain Memories show the original front of the building and the ninth green of the airmen’s golf course. The photo on page 123 shows the “Service Entrance” to the Auchmar estate on Fennel Avenue West with the wooden Carriage House beside the stone Stables to the east of the gate. The film shows the patients putting in a Victory garden, which their in-house newsletter Auchmar Tonic dated April 29, 1944; cutting down dead trees and chopping the wood for the ten fireplaces in Auchmar house; cycling; golfing on a nine hole course the patients created themselves; skiing; curling; bowling and a host of other activities. The doctor’s primary aim was to show the variety of the rehabilitation programme. 10 Doug brought the film back to Hamilton and phoned me to ask what to do with this film. I suggested that it was 55 years old, an acetate film and would turn to dust any minute. Could he take it over to FotoVideo on Upper Ottawa Street and have them make a copy on stable film. At the next executive meeting of the Society we were all overwhelmed by the “silent film” and agreed that the Historical Society must add a sound track appropriate commentary and music to the VHS version of the film. Books by Bill Manson -available at local bookstores- Getting Around Hamilton the history of Hamilton’s unique transportation systems Footsteps in Time, Volumes 1&2 the history of Hamilton’s oldest neighbourhoods Beasley, Central, Corktown, Durand, and North-End 11 Winter 2011 The Women of Auchmar By Dr. Mary Anderson T he Women of Auchmar can be divided generally, into two categories: The Buchanan family who built Auchmar and owned it from 1855 to 1872 and again from 1900 to 1926; and the Sisters of Social Service who owned Auchmar from 1946 to 1999. What is interesting about these two prominent owners is that in both cases Auchmar was seen and used as a place of healing, and became a kind of missionary and social service establishment. Auchmar House is a Gothic Revival mansion completed by Sir Isaac Buchanan (1810-1883) in 1855 on 35 hectares (86 acres) on the Hamilton Mountain at Fennel Ave and W5th Street. It was built as a summer residence in the healthy environment of the Mountain away from the dirt, heat, swamps, and pollution of the city. At that time many of the streets were still muddy and the heating in the city was supplied mainly by burning wood and coal. So, right from the beginning, Auchmar held the salubrious connotation of a spa or a retreat. Isaac Buchanan believed in the healing properties of the sun and fresh air so he built sun rooms the length of the house both at the front and the back. The home was surrounded by acres of trees, formal and natural gardens, orchards and vegetable tracts. The Buchanan family found this home so healthful and invigorating that they decided to live there year round. Agnes (Jarvie) Buchanan (1826-1896) was the chatelaine of Auchmar and she had eleven children, 7 sons and 4 daughters. She had her last child in her 40th year. That child was Helen Elizabeth Jamison Buchanan, known as ELSIE (1865-1951) and Elsie is the prominent woman in our story today. Agnes Buchanan, the mother, was a charming hostess with a beautiful singing voice, and the Buchanans gave many lavish parties for many celebrities, such as Sir John A. Macdonald and the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII. Agnes and the family entertained in the immense dining hall and the music room that was lined with cane to enhance the acoustics. They had many servants who were treated very fairly in keeping with the Buchanan’s enlightened concern for education and emancipation. The Buchanans were devout Presbyterians and members of the MacNab Street Presbyterian Church. Mary Baker McQuesten of Whitehern, describes their position in the church: “In the gallery, facing the pulpit, in the front seat, sat the Hon. Isaac and Mrs. Buchanan. The front seat of the gallery was the seat of honor in the Scottish Churches. They were great up-holders of the Church, not only this Church, but many Churches throughout the Country. Mr. Buchanan gave $250 to every Church that would take the name of Knox so that Knox’s name should never be forgotten in Canada. Mrs. Buchanan was a distinguished lady with a beautiful face and fine executive ability. “ Isaac was a philanthropist, and several Presbyterian churches in Hamilton and Ontario accepted his generosity, and adhered to the Scottish Presbyterian tradition of Knox and the ideas of the Scottish Enlightenment, which included a strong social conscience. 12 Volume 4 , Issue 1 Mrs. Buchanan’s “executive ability” shone in the many social endeavours within their church and throughout the city. For instance the family was committed to education, and assisted many of the charities, the Mechanics Institute and the early libraries. The women were particularly active in the Women’s Foreign Missionary Society (WFMS) and Agnes and her daughter Elsie were charter members of the auxiliary in Hamilton in 1887. The records show that Mary Baker McQuesten of “Whitehern” was the secretary then and became president in 1894, at which time Elsie Buchanan became secretary. The Whitehern archive contains minutes of the meetings written in their own hand and displaying their signatures. They report on the missionary work abroad, along with the notation at each meeting of the collection of dues at 5 cents per person. At the 1894 meeting the balance on hand was $285.88. This missionary work became a strong social obligation for the women who worked hard and donated as much as they could to support the work of women missionaries abroad in India, China, Japan, etc. Elsie gave several lectures at these meetings. These organized women were gaining strength and experience, and the women missionaries overseas were becoming trained as doctors in order to minister to the women who were confined to harems where the male missionaries could not reach them. Soon “gender conflict” began to emerge as the men resisted allowing the women to train as doctors, and they refused to allow the women to practice medicine at home. Also, “gender conflict” broke out at home. The men of the church decided that the large amounts of money that the women were so good at collecting, should be used for the broader missionary society at home, mainly in the west. The women had raised a total income of more than half a million dollars over the life of their organization while the male body had perennial budget problems. The women eventually capitulated but felt that they had been “coerced” into forming the Home Missionary Society (WHMS). Management and money then reverted to the governing body which was male. At this point Elsie Buchanan and Mary McQuesten became disillusioned and began to lose interest in the missionary society work, and decided to do their own personal missionary efforts. Elsie began to take young girls into Auchmar to educate and to train them. Thus Auchmar became a haven and a retreat for many young women who passed through its welcoming doors. Mary McQuesten turned her efforts to help the new immigrants and she worked tirelessly to teach them, and to find them jobs. Mary and Elsie supported the newly-formed YWCA around the turn of the century, and that institution gradually took over some of the work. Mary died in 1935 and Elsie died in 1951. In 1926 Elsie Buchanan sold Auchmar to A.V. Young who, in turn, rented it to the RCAF during and after the Second World War. Auchmar continued as a healing and convalescent centre when it was converted to a retreat for servicemen who had been damaged in both mind and body. It is difficult to say how many were healed at Auchmar, but the surroundings continued to be conducive to recovery. Winter 2011 Volume 4 , Issue 1 The Sisters of Social Service at Auchmar By Dr. Christine Lei, HHB A t 11 a.m. on June 23, 1946, the Sisters of Social Service (SSS) officially opened Holy Spirit Home (on the former Auchmar estate) with an outdoor Mass. This was followed by a Corpus Christi procession between four booths set up in the beautiful garden. At 1:00 in the afternoon, everyone sat down to a long Hungarian dinner until 3 o’clock when the Diocesan Retreat House was blessed by Bishop Joseph Ryan. At this time, information was distributed to the guests about retreats in Hungarian separately for women, men and youth. The Sisters defined the purpose of a retreat as “a resting with the Lord Jesus after which we return refreshed in body and soul to our work and our home.” Who are the Sisters of Social Service? The Sisters of Social Service is a religious organization of social workers, founded in Hungary as the Social Mission Society in 1908 and adapted in its present form in 1923 under the guidance of Sister Margaret Slachta. The Sisters wore a simply grey uniform and an emblem which represents the Holy Spirit in the form of a dove. The order is inspired by the Holy Spirit and rooted in social mission and charism. Its spirituality is Benedictine in nature: a listening heart, peacefulness, simplicity, hospitality, harmony and balance in daily living and ongoing conversion. How did the name Auchmar come to be changed to Mount Cenacle? The Sisters first named the site HOLY SPIRIT HOME to reflect their charism and devotion to the Holy Spirit. As the retreat movement grew, though, it became necessary to find another name. A contest was announced by Bishop Ryan. 56 people responded. The prize was $25.00. The winner was a Cathedral High School student named Paul Kovacs. Here is a copy of his entry: Dear Father: I would suggest as a name for the Retreat House conducted by the Sisters of Social Service “Mount Cenacle”. My reasons: 1.Cenacle means Upper Room, where the Blessed Virgin and the Apostles were waiting for the coming of the Holy Ghost (the Sisters are dedicated to the Holy Ghost) 2.The Retreat House is also a place where those who make (a) the retreat are waiting for the coming of the Holy Ghost to bring them abundance of graces (Retreat House) 3.God’s graces bring true peace to the souls. PAX is the motto of St. Benedict (the Sisters follow the Rule of St. Benedict) I remain, sincerely yours, Paul Kovacs By the early 1980’s, activities at the site were changing, and so the Sisters decided to rename Mount Cenacle Retreat House to Holy Spirit Centre. In a letter dated November 30, 1982, the Sisters gave the following reasons for the renaming: confusion with the Cenacle Sisters in Toronto, the new name reflects the community’s devotion to the Holy Spirit, and the word “retreat” was taken out of name and gave Sisters more scope for programming and providing a variety of community services on the grounds. Why were the SSS invited to Hamilton? Bishop Ryan had been planning to establish a permanent retreat house in the Hamilton diocese, and so he turned to the SSS to open one. The Sisters accepted because of their dedication to the Holy Spirit and to the Pentecost, when the Sisters take and renew their vows. For the next several months, Bishop Ryan looked around for a suitable site for the retreat house. It was November, 1945 and the Second World War had just ended. For the past five years Auchmar had been used as a semi-convalescent home for soldiers who were receiving their treatments by the doctors of the Ontario Hospital located on the west side of the future Mount Cenacle. One Sister recalls how the servicemen used to come over from the Hospital to assist the Sisters with grounds keeping and handiwork. The property at the time consisted of the main building with 26 rooms including the stable where horses were kept on a property of 9.8 acres. The final cost was $32,500 when the Sisters bought the former Auchmar estate in November 1945. When the Sisters took over the property in January 1946, military officers from Ottawa came to greet them and told them that the air force has used it for 5 years, the rent was $1 per year, and $80,000 of repairs had been done to the main building as part of the government contract; this included plastering, flooring, and installing water main, sewers, electricity and gas. Fruit trees had also been planted. In 1945, there was an additional 20 acres of land that spread to the Mountain Brow just north of the estate and it was for sale for $20,000. The Sisters, though, had to “forget about it” since they did not have the money at the time. In her memoirs, Sister Mary Schwarz notes that the north side of Fennell Avenue was Hamilton and the south side Bartonville. She recalls people from across the street coming over for their water supplies. Sister Mary gives us a glimpse into the early days of the Sisters at Mount Cenacle: In January 1946, we moved in, which I may be mistaken in saying because at the time there were only two Sisters there, Sister Mary and Sister Columbetta, and we were in a large 26 room house without furniture and equipment. Although we asked for the stove, it was not given to us. The furnace had a problem and it was not working. I think that the two of us will never forget that January 23. But God blessed the trust we had in Him. Pieces of equipment came in one after another... we ordered beds and bed sheets... we painted the whole house... And we didn’t have a cent with which to do it. The Bishop gave several donations while we were equipping the place and Monsignor Santha loaned all his savings to us interest free... We paid store and factories as we could, paying monthly 10 – 5 – 25 dollar payments on debts of several thousand dollars. Not one of them pressed us but just 13 Winter 2011 The Sisters of Social Service at Auchmar Cont... By Dr. Christine Lei, HHB waited even for two or three years until we paid them what we owed. In the midst of the hardships of our beginnings, we cannot forget the help of Mrs. Coughlin, the president of the Women’s Auxiliary in Montreal. She was with us for six weeks that spring. She helped us materially as the dishes and silverware are from her. She froze with us, scrubbed, painted and sewed... She gave financial help to the Hungarians.” Although the Sisters had much experience in working and helping communities for both young and old alike, running a retreat centre was another matter altogether. It was the Men’s Retreat Association, operated by Mr. Ed Ford and a Women’s Retreat Auxiliary, whose president was Miss Reding. These two groups were in charge of organizing the occasional retreat, until the Sisters were ready to take over. On September 1, 1946 the Sisters were ready for their first retreat. The main house had 36 rooms. The furnishings had been bought on credit or from second-hand stores, or from the armed forces who were selling “surplus goods” – blankets - $2 each, benches $1, chairs 50 cents, dining room tables $10, garden tables $2. Space was tight. For the first two years, the Sisters rolled out their beddings in the morning and hid them away and then rolled them out again when the retreatants when to bed. Some Sisters slept on the floor while others slept on chesterfields, and there was no seating for Sisters during the day. The number of retreats and retreatants grew steadily throughout the 1940’s. In 1946 there were 12 retreats in which there were 249 participants; in 1947 there were 41 retreats and 929 participants; in 1948 there were 30 retreats with 703 participants; in 1949 there were 37 retreats with 981 participants and as Sister Mary writes in her work report “much better income.” The Sisters did not hold retreats in the summer but took in summer guests who were on vacation. In the beginning, most of the retreatants were Hungarian. The retreats were directed by Jesuits, Redemptorists, Resurrectionists, Paulists and by diocesan priests. The average attendance was 20 in 1946, 22 in 1947, 23 in 1948 and 24.3 in 1949. With soaring attendance and limited sleeping and eating facilities, the need for expansion was evident by the Sisters’ second year at Holy Spirit Centre. In a letter dated March 26, 1947, Sister Mary requests a loan from Bishop Ryan to make alterations on the stable in order to transform into a novitiate. She writes: “The work is absolutely necessary if we want to build up our Community in Canada. Up to now we had our vocations from Hungarians only. We also feel the training of Social Sisters, whose field of actions is the centre of life, is very hard on the Prairies in the West. We have to come out, make our Community known, and try to get vocations from more general sources.” Mr. Thomas Cochrane, a frequent retreatant, gave a 14 Volume 4 , Issue 1 special rate for alterations to the stable (in fact, the previous owner’s, Mrs. Young, racing horses were still in the stable). By November 1947, alterations were made to the former coach house to serve as the Novitiate for the Community in Eastern Canada. In the United States girls were entering from all ethnic groups; Sister Mary believed that this new novitiate in Hamilton would attract the same in Canada. The Sisters had also planned to use a few of the rooms in this building for the elderly and retired, at a cost of $60 per month for single room and board. Sixteen windows were put in, including four bay-windows in the place of doors. It took five months to complete. There were eight rooms on the first floor and 12 bedrooms on the second. The Sisters occupied the 2nd floor and the 1st floor rooms were rented to elderly persons as an additional means of income for the Sisters. The loans were paid for from the Holy Sepulchre Cemetery Fund and from St. Mary’s Church in Brantford. The total cost was $25,000. Throughout the 1950’s, the retreat movement at Mount Cenacle continued to soar. In 1961, it was decided that a new wing with private bedrooms and washrooms be added. The result was an entire retreat house with 44 bedrooms, semiprivate bathrooms, a separate chapel seating 80, a dining room for 60, a Retreat Master’s and a visiting priest’s suite and a new kitchen adjoining the service area of the original building. A future mayor of Hamilton (Victor Copps) vicechaired the first advisory board. The cost of the new retreat wing was $260,000. On March 10, 1963, Mount Cenacle Retreat House held its Dedication Day. The first retreatants were men (until 1955 when the Men’s Retreat House in Oakville was opened by the Jesuits) and women, special groups of Hungarian men, married couples, and groups arranged according to parishes. There were also retreats for special groups such as business girls, teachers, Sisters, priests (4 times a year), housekeepers, high school girls, -recollection days for grade 8 boys and girls to serve as vocational guidance, Twilight Retreat for Public High School students, sponsored by the Hamilton Serra Club. Mount Cenacle averaged about 2,000 retreatants per year. One very special guest arrived with a delegation of Polish priests – Cardinal Karol Jozef Wojtyla, the future John Paul II. The significance of the Sisters’ work to the history of Hamilton is expansive. From Mount Cenacle, many Hamilton parishes were formed. In the 1940’s, many priests were organizing their respective parishes in the Diocese and needed a place to stay – at the Holy Spirit Centre. Parishioners would come to the convent chapel at Mount Cenacle to hear mass by their own pastor. In fact, nine Hamilton parishes had their roots at Mount Cenacle. Thousands of people, young and old, men and women, religious and secular, have used the Auchmar grounds as a place of spiritual rejuvenation. The Sisters have also preserved vital documents and photographs that give us a glimpse into another aspect of Hamilton’s broad and vibrant history. They have contributed to the preservation of Hamilton’s history and heritage through the careful preservation of the grounds and buildings at 88 Fennell Avenue West. The first teachers in Sts. Peter and Paul school were three Sisters of Social Service. Winter 2011 Volume 4 , Issue 1 After 52 years of operation, the Sisters held their closing Mass on October 24, 1998 at Sts. Peter and Paul Church. It is important to understand the demographics within the SSS order (and other religious communities as well) so that we may fully comprehend why the Sisters left. With fewer and fewer postulants and novices entering the order and current members aging the Sisters felt that it was time to retire. In 1998, there were plans to sell the property to Ray Bucci Developers for a nursing/retirement home and a project of town houses. This was unsuccessful. In 1999, the SSS sold Holy Spirit Centre for 2 million dollars to A. Desantis and V&R Investments. This plan also failed due to objection by a neighbourhood group and the local historical board. On October 22, 1999, the City of Hamilton became the new owner of Auchmar Estate by exchanging another land and planned to restore it as a heritage property. Hutton. This partnership would last until Mills effectively withdrew from day-to-day practice by 1915. Concurrently, Mills’ and his extensive family were involved in land development as well as commercial development. The latter in the form of the Mills Hardware Co. Ltd stores. These stores were designed by Charles Mills, and dotted across the city. In addition to operating the retreat centre, it is important to remember that the Sisters also worked in parishes, the CYO, Camp Marydale and in chaplaincy at the Ontario psychiatric hospital and St. Joseph’s hospital. There are still two Sisters serving in the diocese, one of whom has just retired from Annunciation parish. The Life and Work of Charles Mills, Architect By Robert Hamilton, HHB b: 1 June 1860 in Hamilton, Ontario; m: Cynthia Allen, 8 September 1882 ; issue: 1880 son, Nelson E, 1884 daughter, Jean Louise, 1885 son, Lyman Dwight, 1886 daughter, Olive Elizabeth,1888 daughter, Ruby Rosalin, 1889 daughter, Mona Victoria, 1892 daughter , Flora Marjories, 1894 son, Frederick J., 1895 daughter, Winona Georgina, 1896 son, Wilfred Laurier; d: 28 February 1934. Member Centenary United Church Charles Mills, son of James Nelson and Cynthia Elizabeth (Gage) Mills, was educated in Hamilton, and is believed to have travelled to Chicago for his architectural training. Mills was an entrepreneur throughout his working life. He was both an architect and a land developer when he helped open up a portion of the new Nelson Survey West of Queen Street in 1882 with realtor John Waldie. Mills would later be granted building permits to erect 10 brick dwellings in 1885. As an entrepreneurial architect, Mills was unique. His architectural firm is the only one known to have consistently advertised in Hamilton, through a series which appeared in the Hamilton Spectator from 1898 through 1905 frequently accompanied by illustrations of floor plans and elevations for commercial, religious and residential structures. Mills actively participated in the management of Landed Banking and Loan once he was elected as a Board of Director for the company starting in 1903. Mills’ architectural practice was a thriving concern and sufficient in size to support a number of apprentices over the years, one of whom was Gordon Johnston Hutton (1881-1942). Hutton became a full partner in 1908 in the firm of Mills & One of the Mills’ influential industrial designs was for the 1906 Eagle Spinning Mill Company Limited, Mill No.2. This mill is considered to be one of the earliest known uses of the American “Kahn System” for reinforced concrete construction in the City of Hamilton. This system and its subsequent derivatives were soon in world-wide use, and its descendents are still in use to this day. Possibly, the most striking building still extant, undertaken by Charles Mills was for the Landed Banking and Loan Company. Mills’ Classical Revival design inspiration relied heavily upon the 1904 bank branch for the Knickerbocker Trust Company, in New York City, designed by the internationally recognised architectural firm of McKim Mead & White. The Terminal Station for Cataract Power, Light & Traction Company, was also a Classical Revival design, and served as the terminus for a series of Radial Railway lines stretching out from Hamilton. The building’s exterior was a mixture of Indiana limestone, masonry and architectural terra cotta. Sadly, the railway systems failed completely by 1931, having been replaced by buses. The station continued to operate as the city bus station until the move to a new purpose built station in 1955. The station was demolished in 1959. Mills’ firm had several commissions for branch banks for the Bank of Hamilton in BC, SK, MB and ON. Mills’ is best remembered for the following architectural commissions: 15 Winter 2011 The Life and Work of Charles Mills, Architect Cont... By Robert Hamilton, HHB 1885 Ten new residences on Nelson (renamed Herkimer) West of Queen Street, Hamilton 1891-1892 Zion Tabernacle Sunday School, Hamilton 1892 Christ’s Church Cathedral Sunday School alterations, Hamilton 1892-1893 Hamilton Pottery addition, Hamilton 1895 Charles Mills Summer Residence, “Thayendanegea”, northeast corner of Water Street and Brant Avenue (now Lakeshore Road and Brock Street), Burlington 1901 Church of the Ascension (Anglican), John Street South at Maria Street, a Sunday School 1905 Charles Mills personal residence 36 Robinson Street, Hamilton 1905 Bank of Hamilton branch, Milton 1906 Gospel Tabernacle Church [Christian Worker’s Church, later still P.W. Philpott Memorial], Parke and Merrick, along with 1909 addition 1906 Eagle Spinning Mill Company Limited, Mill No.2, Wilson Street at Sanford Avenue, Hamilton 1906 George W. Robinson residence, [#2] Ravenscliffe Avenue, Hamilton 1906 Young Women’s Christian Association (Y.W.C.A.), Main Street West, Hamilton 1906 Mills Hardware Co. store, 95 King Street East, Hamilton 1906-1907 Terminal Station – Cataract Power, Light & Traction Company, King Street East, Hamilton 1907 Westinghouse of Canada two-storey addition, Hamilton 1907 Canada Screw Works alterations, Wellington Street North, Hamilton 1907 Bank of British North America branch, Barton Street near Fullerton Avenue, Hamilton 1907-1908 Landed Banking and Loan building James Street South at Main Street East, Hamilton 1908 McLaughlin Carriage Company, Bay Street South, Hamilton 1909 Dominion Bank Building, King Street West at MacNab Street, Hamilton 1909 Otis-Fensom Elevator Company plant, Victoria Avenue, Hamilton Volume 4 , Issue 1 Christ Church Cathedral By W. A. Seville I n 1885, Rev.Theo Heise, Curate of Christ Church Cathedral, held the first service for German speaking Lutherans. In that same year, a missionary journey to Canada was made by a representative of the Pittsburgh Synod, Rev. Beckemeyer. It was he who was instrumental in arranging for Lutherans in Hamilton and area to worship together at various locales. Rev. W. Rechenberg from Toronto, journeyed to Hamilton every four weeks for a period of two years to hold these services for the German speaking people. In 1862, the Rev. A. Boetteger was called to be the Minister of this congregation and in 1864, a church building on the corner of Market Street and Bay was erected. In that same year, the congregation was admitted as a mission into the Canada Synod until in 1874 it became self-supporting. The current church building was bought from the former Primitive Methodist congregation in 1884 for the cost of $8,000, which included the parsonage. This debt was wiped out in 1906. To this day, the name above the door reads St. Paul’s which was the name given to it by its original Methodist Congregation. The German language was used from 1858 until 1920 when the first English language service was held in the evenings. In 1939, the war brought about the use of English in the main service and once a month German services were held at 4 p.m. There were three distinct periods in the life of St. Paul’s where immigration from Europe swelled the congregation: 1889-1900, 1928-1931 and after World War II. The first “d i s p l a c e d ” persons ( Latvians, Estonians and Lithuanians) arrived in Hamilton in 1947. The majority of them became members of St. Paul’s which caused some problems as to the language to be used in the services. In order to solve this problem, Pastor Mueller, the then pastor of the church, located Rev. A. Gaudins in a Hydro camp in Petawawa. He held the first Latvian service in Canada in St. Paul’s in 1949. Pastor K. Raudsepp did the same for the Estonians. Th ere i s a lon g history involved w i t h t h i s c hu rc h and 1909 Y.M.C.A., James Street South at Jackson Street East, Hamilton 1909 Hamilton Cotton Company, Main Street East, Hamilton 1910-1911 Bank of Hamilton branch, Lonsdale Avenue, City of North Vancouver Photo by Herbert Fodor 16 Winter 2011 its many people from Europe with several languages being spoken. There is not enough room in this article to go into that. Pastor Philipp Weingartner was called to be its first minister. After his retirement, Pastor Rolf Ruppenthal accepted the call in November 1974 and served faithfully until April 2008. Pastors Joachim Probst, David Wunderlich and Colin Cameron served the English speaking congregation until Pastor Cameron’s departure. During that period of time, Pastor Doug Schweyer was the Interim English pastor. On June 1, 2008, Rev. Dr. Frank Bahr, who speaks both German and English, arrived to serve at St. John’s This is a very brief history of this fascinating congregation where many of its people came as refugees to find a more peaceful life in this great country of Canada. St. John’s is blessed to have over its altar, the work of a wonderful artist called Otilie Palm which was painted in 1908. It is well worth a visit to this friendly church where strangers are always welcomed. It is located at Hughson and Wilson in downtown Hamilton. I Then & Now n the last issue, Volume 3, issue 1, we introduced this Column indicating that in it we would review the changes over time of our public institutions including hospitals, schools and government offices. We began with a brief overview of the governance of our hospitals so in this issue we shall continue the process with a description of the history of the “First Hamilton Hospital.” Hamilton’s First Municipal Hospital By Bill Manson for First Here, Margaret Houghton ed. 2008 W ith the opening of the Burlington Canal in 1823, shiploads of immigrants began arriving in Port Hamilton. In 1832, they brought cholera with them. Because there was no hospital in Hamilton, barracks built on Burlington Heights during the War of 1812 were turned into a makeshift hospital, solely for the treatment of the immigrants. Those who died were buried in the town cemetery, which was conveniently located just next door. The next year, the Police Board, which was established to govern the newly-incorporated Town of Hamilton, erected a municipal warehouse on the northeast corner of Catharine and Guise streets in Port Hamilton, which was also used to treat cholera victims during outbreaks over the next 17 years. In 1846, the City of Hamilton was incorporated. Two years later, the City established the first Board of Health, and appointed Henry John Williams Hamilton’s first Health Officer. Directed to establish a hospital for the new city, Williams selected two acres of City-owned land on the southern outskirts of Hamilton. The site was situated at the southern end of Cherry Street (Ferguson Avenue) at the corner of Aurora Street, and directly below a stone quarry up on the Escarpment. Volume 4 , Issue 1 In 1849, amid the orchards, a two-storey white frame building was erected to serve both as a municipal hospital and as a home for the destitute. It was officially named “The House of Industry”, but became popularly known as the “Aurora Street Hospital”. The City also built an animal impound and a powder magazine on the hospital site in 1850. The hospital superintendent was responsible not only for the ailing patients and the destitute in the hospital, but also for the livestock in the pound. By 1853, after several “incidents”, it was clear that the quarry above the hospital posed a threat, and the Board of Health sought a new location for the hospital. The City purchased a brick and cut-stone hotel which stood atop the hillside on the southeast corner of John and Guise Streets. It was fronted by a two-storey wooden verandah, which commanded an uninterrupted view of the Port Hamilton waterfront, and the tall ships and steamers out on the bay. The imposing hotel, the first built in Port Hamilton, had been erected circa 1830 by Nathaniel Hughson, on speculation that a railway would soon be coming to Hamilton. However, the Great Western Railway was destined not to arrive for another two decades, and without the railway there was not enough maritime business to support Hughson’s hotel. The failing enterprise, known as “Hughson’s Folly”, shut down, and the building was subsequently used to billet soldiers during the Rebellion of 1837, and later as a custom house. The City converted ”The Folly” into a 70-bed municipal hospital, appropriately (albeit “uncreatively”) named “City Hospital”. With a staff of 6 physicians and one surgeon, it served as Hamilton’s only hospital for 30 years. However, despite two expansions, a larger, up-to-date facility was desperately needed, and the patients of City Hospital were transferred to the new “General Hospital” on Barton Street in 1882. City Hospital was subsequently reopened as “The House of Refuge for Aged Indigent Women”. When men were also admitted to the facility, its name was shortened to “The House of Refuge”. Unfortunately, the old building was in bad repair, and was proving to be too small to house the growing number of elderly patients. In 1895, the City razed “Hughson’s Folly to make way for a new “House of Refuge” erected on the site just east of the original structure. This modern residence was specifically designed to accommodate the elderly, and housed upwards of 150 residents and staff. In 1920 the “House of Refuge” was renamed “Home for the Aged and Infirm”, and in 1949 again renamed “Macassa Lodge” (macassa meaning “beautiful waters”, so-called by the Mississaugas who had fished and hunted on the bay nearby). Seven years later, “Macassa” was razed after the residents had been moved to a new “Macassa Lodge” on Upper Sherman Avenue. North-End residential high-rises now occupy the site of City Hospital. 17
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