Router Base Plate
05J25.01
Patented.
The Veritas Router Base Plate replaces the sole plate that
came with your router. Because you drill the holes required
to mount it to your router, it is not riddled with holes and
slots that are required for it to be universally mounted to
any router. Once it is attached, you are able to mount and
remove your router from a shop-built router table in seconds,
allowing you to go from freehand routing to table-mounted
routing, and back again. Additionally, it is counterbored for
compatibility with the Veritas template guide bushings.
Parts Included
The parts that are included with the Veritas Router Base Plate
are shown below to help you identify each part as it is referred
to in the instructions that follow.
Router Base Plate
ii. To properly secure the base plate to your router, use
flat-head screws. If your sole plate was attached with
screws of any other head style, replace them with
flat-head screws.
Router Table Construction
General Notes
The router table top allows you to install and remove your router
in seconds by tilting it and dropping it out from the underside.
No permanent fastening of the router to the table is required.
Make your router table top from any flat sheet of stock
(plywood, melamine-coated particleboard, or mediumdensity fiberboard), 5/8" to 3/4" (16mm to 19mm) thick.
A melamine-surfaced sheet works well on account of
the smooth, low-friction surface. However, to reduce the
possibility of chipping as the base plate is removed from
the table top, a better choice is plywood or medium-density
fiberboard, with a laminated top surface (e.g., plastic laminate
such as Arborite®).
Router Base Plate Template
Alignment Pin/O-Ring
Trammel Bar
13/4" Washer
Countersink Bit
If you have made your table top out of melamine or mediumdensity fiberboard, seal the stepped surfaces of the center
hole and any other bare surface/edge with shellac or other
sealant. This will reduce the dimensional changes that may
occur as a result of humidity fluctuations.
Rotation Limiter Parts
Depending on the size of top you choose, you may want to
make it more rigid by adding stiffeners to the underside. If
so, add these once you have completed it, in order to be sure
that they are located in a position that will not interfere with
the installation or removal of your router.
Rubber
Bumper
Hex Nuts
#10-32 × 1"
Flat-Head Screw
Flat Washers
During the construction, you will be instructed to drill 3/16"
and 1/2" diameter holes (steps 2, 3, and 6), which will be
used as pivot points to rout larger circles. Before making
these holes, test the bit that will be used (in a piece of scrap
made of the same material as used for the table top) to be
sure it does not drill an oversize hole. As a check, the 3/16"
and 1/2" diameter sections of the alignment pin should slip
into each drilled hole with minimal play.
Router Base Plate Attachment
The instructions for mounting the router base plate are
outlined on the router base plate template.
Notes:
i. In step 4, you are instructed to transfer the group of
threaded holes that were used to secure the original
sole plate. Some routers contain an additional group of
threaded holes that are intended to be used for mounting
to a router table. If your router contains these holes,
they should be used for securing the base plate.
Procedure
1. Cut your router table top to the size you have selected,
add edge banding or solid lipping to the exposed edges,
and laminate the top surface if required.
2. With the base plate attached to your router, turn your
router upside down or lightly clamp it in a vise (spindle
end up), install the alignment pin, and adjust your router
so the 1/2" diameter portion of the alignment pin projects
at least 1/4" beyond the router base plate. Place the 1/2"
hole in the trammel bar over the projecting alignment
Router Base Plate
05J25.01
Patented.
The Veritas Router Base Plate replaces the sole plate that
came with your router. Because you drill the holes required
to mount it to your router, it is not riddled with holes and
slots that are required for it to be universally mounted to
any router. Once it is attached, you are able to mount and
remove your router from a shop-built router table in seconds,
allowing you to go from freehand routing to table-mounted
routing, and back again. Additionally, it is counterbored for
compatibility with the Veritas template guide bushings.
Parts Included
The parts that are included with the Veritas Router Base Plate
are shown below to help you identify each part as it is referred
to in the instructions that follow.
Router Base Plate
ii. To properly secure the base plate to your router, use
flat-head screws. If your sole plate was attached with
screws of any other head style, replace them with
flat-head screws.
Router Table Construction
General Notes
The router table top allows you to install and remove your router
in seconds by tilting it and dropping it out from the underside.
No permanent fastening of the router to the table is required.
Make your router table top from any flat sheet of stock
(plywood, melamine-coated particleboard, or mediumdensity fiberboard), 5/8" to 3/4" (16mm to 19mm) thick.
A melamine-surfaced sheet works well on account of
the smooth, low-friction surface. However, to reduce the
possibility of chipping as the base plate is removed from
the table top, a better choice is plywood or medium-density
fiberboard, with a laminated top surface (e.g., plastic laminate
such as Arborite®).
Router Base Plate Template
Alignment Pin/O-Ring
Trammel Bar
13/4" Washer
Countersink Bit
If you have made your table top out of melamine or mediumdensity fiberboard, seal the stepped surfaces of the center
hole and any other bare surface/edge with shellac or other
sealant. This will reduce the dimensional changes that may
occur as a result of humidity fluctuations.
Rotation Limiter Parts
Depending on the size of top you choose, you may want to
make it more rigid by adding stiffeners to the underside. If
so, add these once you have completed it, in order to be sure
that they are located in a position that will not interfere with
the installation or removal of your router.
Rubber
Bumper
Hex Nuts
#10-32 × 1"
Flat-Head Screw
Flat Washers
During the construction, you will be instructed to drill 3/16"
and 1/2" diameter holes (steps 2, 3, and 6), which will be
used as pivot points to rout larger circles. Before making
these holes, test the bit that will be used (in a piece of scrap
made of the same material as used for the table top) to be
sure it does not drill an oversize hole. As a check, the 3/16"
and 1/2" diameter sections of the alignment pin should slip
into each drilled hole with minimal play.
Router Base Plate Attachment
The instructions for mounting the router base plate are
outlined on the router base plate template.
Notes:
i. In step 4, you are instructed to transfer the group of
threaded holes that were used to secure the original
sole plate. Some routers contain an additional group of
threaded holes that are intended to be used for mounting
to a router table. If your router contains these holes,
they should be used for securing the base plate.
Procedure
1. Cut your router table top to the size you have selected,
add edge banding or solid lipping to the exposed edges,
and laminate the top surface if required.
2. With the base plate attached to your router, turn your
router upside down or lightly clamp it in a vise (spindle
end up), install the alignment pin, and adjust your router
so the 1/2" diameter portion of the alignment pin projects
at least 1/4" beyond the router base plate. Place the 1/2"
hole in the trammel bar over the projecting alignment
pin. Swing the trammel bar so the outermost hole in the
free end faces the rear of the router, as shown in Figure 1.
Clamp it in this position with a small C-clamp. Using the
two 3/16" holes in the free end of the trammel bar as drill
bushings, drill 3/16" diameter holes through the base plate.
To keep the holes being drilled in their intended locations,
keep the drill bit perpendicular to the base plate.
Trammel Bar
beyond the groove just routed and be 2" long, as shown
in the diagram. With the router bit depth unchanged,
rout the two notches free hand, routing to the lines
(or slightly beyond). Do not worry if the routed line
wavers, as it will not show when in use.
Outer Hole
Inner Hole
3/8"
Rout notches
2 places
Front of
Router
2"
Bottom Side
Rear Edge
of Table
Figure 1: Drilling trammel holes in the base plate.
3. On what will become the bottom side of the table top,
mark the center hole location. Using a drill press (or
an alignment guide or block to ensure a perpendicular
hole), drill a 1/2" diameter hole in the center.
4. Remove the alignment pin from your router and replace
it with a 1/2" bit, adjusted for a depth of cut 3/16" less
than the thickness of your top. Clamp the table top to
your bench, bottom side up and elevated on two scraps
of wood whose thickness allows only the 3/16" diameter
end of the alignment pin to project past the surface of
the top. With the innermost 3/16" drilled hole in the
router base plate placed on the projecting alignment
pin, rotate the router in a full circle, thus routing a
circular groove, as shown in Figure 2.
1/4"
Center
Line
Figure 3: Notching the bottom side of the table top.
6. Make the restraining bar shown in Figure 4 (from scrap
wood) 2" to 3" wide, and 13" to 15" long. The thickness
of the bar should not be greater than the scraps of wood
that were previously used to elevate the table top (ref.
step 4). Drill only the 1/2" diameter hole in the center of
the restraining bar. While the top is still inverted, attach
the restraining bar with four screws as shown, using
the alignment pin to ensure that the 1/2" hole in the bar
remains concentric with the 1/2" hole in the top. Make
an identifying reference mark on the restraining bar and
adjacent table top surface, so the bar can be removed
and replaced in the exact same position if necessary.
1/2" dia.
Center Hole
Restraining Bar
Screws (4)
Inner Hole
Bottom Side
Reference
Mark
Figure 4: Fitting of the restraining bar.
Bottom Side
Figure 2: Routing the bottom side of the table top.
5. So the router base plate will be able to pass down
through the hole in the table top, two notches must
be cut through what will become the supporting ledge
for the base plate. While the table top is still inverted,
mark out both notch areas as shown in Figure 3. They
should be located at two opposing points, extending 3/8"
7. Adjust the 1/2" router bit so the depth of cut is equal
to the thickness of the base plate. This is an important
step as it sets the depth of the ledge that the base plate
will rest on, so that it will be perfectly flush with the
table top. As a check, cut a straight rebate in a scrap
piece of material (in the same type of material as the
table top), and verify that, when the base plate sits on
the rebate, the top surface is perfectly flush with the
adjacent material. A straightedge placed across the join
helps to establish whether or not the two surfaces are
perfectly flush.
pin. Swing the trammel bar so the outermost hole in the
free end faces the rear of the router, as shown in Figure 1.
Clamp it in this position with a small C-clamp. Using the
two 3/16" holes in the free end of the trammel bar as drill
bushings, drill 3/16" diameter holes through the base plate.
To keep the holes being drilled in their intended locations,
keep the drill bit perpendicular to the base plate.
Trammel Bar
beyond the groove just routed and be 2" long, as shown
in the diagram. With the router bit depth unchanged,
rout the two notches free hand, routing to the lines
(or slightly beyond). Do not worry if the routed line
wavers, as it will not show when in use.
Outer Hole
Inner Hole
3/8"
Rout notches
2 places
Front of
Router
2"
Bottom Side
Rear Edge
of Table
Figure 1: Drilling trammel holes in the base plate.
3. On what will become the bottom side of the table top,
mark the center hole location. Using a drill press (or
an alignment guide or block to ensure a perpendicular
hole), drill a 1/2" diameter hole in the center.
4. Remove the alignment pin from your router and replace
it with a 1/2" bit, adjusted for a depth of cut 3/16" less
than the thickness of your top. Clamp the table top to
your bench, bottom side up and elevated on two scraps
of wood whose thickness allows only the 3/16" diameter
end of the alignment pin to project past the surface of
the top. With the innermost 3/16" drilled hole in the
router base plate placed on the projecting alignment
pin, rotate the router in a full circle, thus routing a
circular groove, as shown in Figure 2.
1/4"
Center
Line
Figure 3: Notching the bottom side of the table top.
6. Make the restraining bar shown in Figure 4 (from scrap
wood) 2" to 3" wide, and 13" to 15" long. The thickness
of the bar should not be greater than the scraps of wood
that were previously used to elevate the table top (ref.
step 4). Drill only the 1/2" diameter hole in the center of
the restraining bar. While the top is still inverted, attach
the restraining bar with four screws as shown, using
the alignment pin to ensure that the 1/2" hole in the bar
remains concentric with the 1/2" hole in the top. Make
an identifying reference mark on the restraining bar and
adjacent table top surface, so the bar can be removed
and replaced in the exact same position if necessary.
1/2" dia.
Center Hole
Restraining Bar
Screws (4)
Inner Hole
Bottom Side
Reference
Mark
Figure 4: Fitting of the restraining bar.
Bottom Side
Figure 2: Routing the bottom side of the table top.
5. So the router base plate will be able to pass down
through the hole in the table top, two notches must
be cut through what will become the supporting ledge
for the base plate. While the table top is still inverted,
mark out both notch areas as shown in Figure 3. They
should be located at two opposing points, extending 3/8"
2
7. Adjust the 1/2" router bit so the depth of cut is equal
to the thickness of the base plate. This is an important
step as it sets the depth of the ledge that the base plate
will rest on, so that it will be perfectly flush with the
table top. As a check, cut a straight rebate in a scrap
piece of material (in the same type of material as the
table top), and verify that, when the base plate sits on
the rebate, the top surface is perfectly flush with the
adjacent material. A straightedge placed across the join
helps to establish whether or not the two surfaces are
perfectly flush.
Notes on obtaining a flush base plate:
i. The test rebate should not be wider than 1/4" (as this is
the width of the ledge that the base plate will ultimately
rest on), and should be long enough for the base plate
to be sufficiently supported. Be sure to hold the router
flat while checking.
ii. A ledge with a clean square cut is necessary for the base
plate to sit properly. If your router bit has not produced
this, replace it with a new bit that has sharp cutters.
With the bit depth properly set, clamp the router table
to your bench, top side up and elevated on the same two
scraps of wood. With the outermost 3/16" drilled hole in
the router base plate placed on the projecting alignment
pin, rotate the router in a full circle, thus routing a second
slightly larger circular groove, as shown in Figure 5.
Outer Hole
If you do not have a plunge router, simply rout the 1/2"
diameter semicircle free hand, using a wooden bar as
a guide. Stop the cut when the leading edge of the bit
intersects with the edge of the larger routed circle.
9. Remove the router and the restraining bar from the
table top (the center cut-out portion of the table top
should remain attached to the bar). Clamp the top to
your bench so the hole is overhanging your bench.
Drop the inverted router into the stepped hole. If the
base plate is too big to fit it into the larger routed hole,
continue with this step; otherwise, proceed to step 10.
To increase the size of the larger routed hole, first reinstall
the restraining bar (with the center cut-out portion still
attached) to the bottom side of the table top and in the
same orientation that it was originally installed. Repeat
step 7, except this time, pull the router away from the
alignment pin as you rout the circle; this applied load
will result in a slightly larger routed circle. Check if the
base plate now fits. If not, use a twist drill to open up the
outermost hole by 1/64". Repeat step 7, again pulling the
router away from the alignment pin as you rout.
Note: This step may be repeated if necessary, enlarging
the outermost hole in the base plate by increments of 1/64".
Top Side
Figure 5: Routing the top side of the table top.
8. Before removing the router, rotate it until the bit is
pointing at what will become the back edge of the top,
and plunge the bit down, going through the table top
(see Figure 6). Because the router may have a tendency
to rotate counterclockwise when making this cut, we
suggest either clamping the router in place or clamping
a wooden bar against the side of the base plate to the
table top to prevent this.
10. Using the countersink bit provided, countersink the
outermost 3/16" hole from the top side of the base
plate (side opposite to router), deep enough so the
10-32 flat-head screw sits just below the base plate
surface. Secure the flat-head screw by tightening the
inner nut against the base plate. Install the rubber bumper
and remaining hardware as shown in Figure 7.
Rubber
Bumper
#10-32 × 1"
Flat-Head Screw
Hex Nuts
Back Edge of Table
Rout semicircle
through ledge.
Handles of router
in line as shown.
Flat Washers
Router side of
base plate.
Figure 7: Installing the rotation limiter to base plate.
Tighten the lower nut until the base plate fits into the
table top with no play, as a result of the rubber bumper
pressing against the side of the semicircular hole routed
in the back of the table top.
Top Side
Clamp scrap wood
to prevent router
from rotating.
Outer Hole
Figure 6: Cutting the rotation limiter.
3
Notes on obtaining a flush base plate:
i. The test rebate should not be wider than 1/4" (as this is
the width of the ledge that the base plate will ultimately
rest on), and should be long enough for the base plate
to be sufficiently supported. Be sure to hold the router
flat while checking.
ii. A ledge with a clean square cut is necessary for the base
plate to sit properly. If your router bit has not produced
this, replace it with a new bit that has sharp cutters.
With the bit depth properly set, clamp the router table
to your bench, top side up and elevated on the same two
scraps of wood. With the outermost 3/16" drilled hole in
the router base plate placed on the projecting alignment
pin, rotate the router in a full circle, thus routing a second
slightly larger circular groove, as shown in Figure 5.
Outer Hole
If you do not have a plunge router, simply rout the 1/2"
diameter semicircle free hand, using a wooden bar as
a guide. Stop the cut when the leading edge of the bit
intersects with the edge of the larger routed circle.
9. Remove the router and the restraining bar from the
table top (the center cut-out portion of the table top
should remain attached to the bar). Clamp the top to
your bench so the hole is overhanging your bench.
Drop the inverted router into the stepped hole. If the
base plate is too big to fit it into the larger routed hole,
continue with this step; otherwise, proceed to step 10.
To increase the size of the larger routed hole, first reinstall
the restraining bar (with the center cut-out portion still
attached) to the bottom side of the table top and in the
same orientation that it was originally installed. Repeat
step 7, except this time, pull the router away from the
alignment pin as you rout the circle; this applied load
will result in a slightly larger routed circle. Check if the
base plate now fits. If not, use a twist drill to open up the
outermost hole by 1/64". Repeat step 7, again pulling the
router away from the alignment pin as you rout.
Note: This step may be repeated if necessary, enlarging
the outermost hole in the base plate by increments of 1/64".
Top Side
Figure 5: Routing the top side of the table top.
8. Before removing the router, rotate it until the bit is
pointing at what will become the back edge of the top,
and plunge the bit down, going through the table top
(see Figure 6). Because the router may have a tendency
to rotate counterclockwise when making this cut, we
suggest either clamping the router in place or clamping
a wooden bar against the side of the base plate to the
table top to prevent this.
10. Using the countersink bit provided, countersink the
outermost 3/16" hole from the top side of the base
plate (side opposite to router), deep enough so the
10-32 flat-head screw sits just below the base plate
surface. Secure the flat-head screw by tightening the
inner nut against the base plate. Install the rubber bumper
and remaining hardware as shown in Figure 7.
Rubber
Bumper
#10-32 × 1"
Flat-Head Screw
Hex Nuts
Back Edge of Table
Rout semicircle
through ledge.
Handles of router
in line as shown.
Flat Washers
Router side of
base plate.
Figure 7: Installing the rotation limiter to base plate.
Tighten the lower nut until the base plate fits into the
table top with no play, as a result of the rubber bumper
pressing against the side of the semicircular hole routed
in the back of the table top.
Top Side
Clamp scrap wood
to prevent router
from rotating.
Outer Hole
Figure 6: Cutting the rotation limiter.
able
ghtly
er is
plate
that
top
you
n the
f the
You can now install/remove your router into/from the table
top in seconds, as shown below. If the base plate sits slightly
proud in the area of the rotation limiter when the router is
placed into the table top, pressing or tapping the base plate
down in this area will make it settle onto the ledge.
1 Lift
2 Tilt
Lift, tilt, slide and drop out.
Reverse order to install
router into table top.
Front Edge
of Table
Rotation
Limiter
3 Slide
4 Drop Out
Figure 8: Removing the router from the table top.
Note: There is a possibility that routers with handles that
are very close to the base plate will foul the table top
when the router is tilted to be installed or removed. If you
encounter this, extend the length of the two notches on the
bottom side of the table top toward the front edge of the
table top as required.
Using the Alignment Pin as a Pivot Pin
The alignment pin may be used as a pivot pin when doing
freehand routing with bits that have solid or ball-bearing
guides. By installing the included O-ring (found in the parts
package) on the groove of the pin shank, the alignment pin
will become a pivot pin. When this pin is mounted in your
base plate, and located close to the bit, it is used as an infeed
pivot point to support your workpiece as you begin your cut,
preventing your workpiece from being grabbed by the bit.
If you intend on doing such work, you will have to drill a 1/4"
hole in the base plate. To provide the best workpiece support,
the hole should be located as close as possible to the bit but,
to ensure that the pivot pin has adequate support, do not
drill it closer than 1/4" from the edge of the counterbore in the
center of the base plate. Add a small countersink (e.g., 1/32") to
the exposed side (non-router side) of the base plate.
Before using the alignment pin as a pivot pin, roll the O-ring
onto the 1/4" diameter end until it sits in the circular groove.
The inclusion of the O-ring prevents the pin from inadvertently
rising out of the hole, either as a result of contact with a
workpiece that has a sloping face, or just as a result of
normal vibration; most pins on the market are subject to this
weakness. Ours, with the O-ring, will not be.
Using the Alignment Pin as a Pivot Pin
The alignment pin may be used as a pivot pin when doing
freehand routing with bits that have solid or ball-bearing
guides. By installing the included O-ring (found in the parts
package) on the groove of the pin shank, the alignment pin
will become a pivot pin. When this pin is mounted in your
base plate, and located close to the bit, it is used as an infeed
pivot point to support your workpiece as you begin your cut,
preventing your workpiece from being grabbed by the bit.
If you intend on doing such work, you will have to drill a 1/4"
hole in the base plate. To provide the best workpiece support,
the hole should be located as close as possible to the bit but,
to ensure that the pivot pin has adequate support, do not
drill it closer than 1/4" from the edge of the counterbore in the
center of the base plate. Add a small countersink (e.g., 1/32") to
the exposed side (non-router side) of the base plate.
Before using the alignment pin as a pivot pin, roll the O-ring
onto the 1/4" diameter end until it sits in the circular groove.
The inclusion of the O-ring prevents the pin from inadvertently
rising out of the hole, either as a result of contact with a
workpiece that has a sloping face, or just as a result of
normal vibration; most pins on the market are subject to this
weakness. Ours, with the O-ring, will not be.
814 Proctor Avenue
Ogdensburg, New York
13669-2205 USA
303
© Veritas Tools Inc. 2006
1090 Morrison Drive
Ottawa, Ontario
K2H 1C2 Canada
INS-103 Rev. D
Printed in Canada.
INS-103 Rev. D
Printed in Canada.