An investigation of Andean textile dyes involving the development of

An investigation of Andean textile dyes involving the development of novel analytical techniques Supervisors: David McPhail, UT Dallas (Edith O’Donnell Chair ‐ Department of Chemistry & Biochemistry) Kimberly Jones, Dallas Museum of Art (Assistant Curator of Arts of the Americas) Fran Baas, Dallas Museum of Art (Associate Conservator of Objects) This project is one of the initial studies to be undertaken as a collaboration between the Edith O’Donnell Institute of Art History at the University of Texas at Dallas, the Dallas Museum of Art and the School of Natural Sciences and Mathematics at UT Dallas. Tunic with profile heads and stepped frets Perú: south‐central highlands or coast Huari (Wari) culture, A.D. 850–950 Camelid fiber (wefts) and cotton (warps) Dallas Museum of Art, The Eugene and Margaret McDermott Art Fund, Inc., in honor of Carol Robbins' 40th anniversary with the Dallas Museum of Art, 2004.55.McD Project Summary: The aim of this project is to develop robust analytical protocols for the characterization of the dyes used in Andean textiles to improve our understanding of how they were fabricated and to inform how best they should be conserved. The project will develop skills in the application of a wide range of complimentary analytical techniques and in the development of novel techniques. Textile dye identification has been undertaken in the past, although the last comprehensive survey of Andean textile dyestuffs was last carried out (using High Pressure Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) as the analytical method) more than twenty years ago. Recent studies of textile dyes – focusing upon Navajo textiles ‐ have turned to Surface‐enhanced Raman spectroscopy (SERS) as an alternative technique. However, there remains strong potential for the application of many other techniques and for the development of completely new methods of analysis which could lead to important contributions to the field. The project will begin with a detailed survey of the conservation literature on the topic. Technical analysis will then focus upon the Andean textile collection at the Dallas Museum of Art, which include around 690 Andean textiles spanning over 2000 years of cultural history. The textiles pertain to cultures from south, central and north coasts, including the Paracas, Nasca, Moche, Chancay, and Chimú. The collection also includes textiles from primarily highland cultures, such as the Wari (Huari) and Inka (Inca), which survive often through trade or deposition in coastal locales. The textiles primarily consist of cotton or camelid fibers, or a mixture of the two materials. The dyes and pigments may be painted onto or woven into the textile design, providing highly complex and diverse materials. A comprehensive program of chemical and physical analysis will be developed and it may well become necessary to develop novel analytical approaches to ensure a complete understanding of the dyes in these textiles. Identification of the materials and techniques used in the creation of these works will contribute to a deeper understanding of their time of origin and their geographic location. Resources: An exploration of existing literature on the topic of textile dye analysis can be found through AATA Online (Abstracts of International Conservation Literature): http://aata.getty.edu/Home Further information: For further information and/or to initiate an informal discussion please contact: David McPhail at [email protected] and/or Fran Baas at [email protected]