Holiday Recipes Nothing says Christmas more than Roasted Turkey and American Apple Pie, Insider rounds up two delicious recipes to help prepare you for the holiday! How to Roast a Turkey A guide by Melissa Clark from the New York Times The turkey is the indisputable centerpiece of the Thanksgiving meal, the sun around which the sweet potatoes, gravy and cranberry sauce orbit. There are plenty of techniques for cooking a turkey, from braising to frying to roasting upside down and turning halfway, all of which work perfectly well. But sometimes the classic way is the best. To this end, we offer a recipe for the easiest, least fussy roasted turkey there is. You don’t have to brine, stuff, truss or baste it, and it tastes terrific — crisp-skinned, tenderfleshed, well-seasoned and, best of all, low-stress. But we also talk you through brining, if you’d like to try it, and stuffing and trussing too, and also provide tips for every facet of turkey roasting we could think of to help you through the holiday. What you need • It’s worth buying a decent roasting pan, one heavy enough not to buckle under the weight of the bird, but light enough for you to carry once your bird is in it. • You’ll need a turkey rack, which you can usually buy along with the pan. If you buy it separately, make sure it fits inside the pan. • An instant-read thermometer will help you determine when the turkey is done. • If you do plan to truss your bird, you’ll need butcher’s twine. Turkey Timeline • 3 to 5 days ahead If your turkey is frozen (the vast majority are), it will need to be defrosted. Do this in the fridge, allowing 1 day for every 4 pounds of turkey. Put it in a bowl or on a baking pan to catch any juices. • 3 days ahead You can season the turkey while it defrosts. If you’ve got a fresh bird, season it up to 3 days ahead. • 1 to 2 hours ahead Take the turkey out of the fridge and leave at room temperature before roasting. This will help it cook evenly. If you haven’t seasoned it already, do so now. • 2 to 6 hours for cooking Allow anywhere from 2 to 6 hours to roast and rest the turkey, depending on its size and the recipe. Fresh or frozen? Your turkey will be sold either fresh or frozen. Some cooks swear by a fresh turkey, claiming that frozen varieties are noticeably drier and not as flavorful. This is probably true if you are able to preorder an organic or heritage fresh bird from a small local farm. But when it comes to supermarket turkey, the difference between fresh and frozen is negligible, and a fresh turkey costs more. (A fresh turkey may also still come partly frozen, since by law it can be kept chilled at a temperature as low as 26 degrees; it may need a day in the fridge to defrost.) Fresh turkeys should be bought no more than 2 days before cooking. Before you roast • Do not wash your turkey after you remove it from its plastic bag to season it; just pat it dry with paper towels. Any potential bacteria will cook off during roasting. • Be sure to remove the sack containing the neck and innards from the cavity. Reserve them for stock if you like. If the bird is frozen, defrost for one day, then you should be able to pry them out. (Beware: sometimes the giblets are under the neck flap, not in the cavity. Check the turkey thoroughly.) Preparing the turkey Brine: To brine or not to brine? For me, the answer is no. Brining — the process of submerging a turkey in a salt-andaromatic solution — is the messiest and least convenient way to ensure moist and evenly seasoned meat, which is the whole point. Instead I prefer seasoning the bird all over with a salt rub — technically, a dry brine — and letting it sit for a few days, or even hours, before roasting. It’s much easier to keep a salted turkey in the fridge rather than having to figure out where to store a bird covered in liquid. But it’s for you to decide. (And either way, you can brine or season a frozen bird as it defrosts.) Here’s what you need to know. Dry Brine Combine 1/2 teaspoon salt per pound of turkey (use coarse kosher or sea salt) with whatever aromatics you want to mix into it. Rub this mixture all over the bird and refrigerate for up to 3 days. In a pinch, you can season the bird just before cooking, though the skin will be saltier than the flesh. The simple roast turkey recipe below uses a dry brine. Brine It’s important to find a recipe for brine and stick to it, without making substitutions. For instance, different varieties of salt have different volumes; if your recipe calls for 2 cups kosher salt, don’t substitute table salt or else you’ll have an inedible bird. (Never brine kosher or selfbasting turkeys, both of which have already been salted.) The safest way to brine is to submerge the turkey in the salt solution, cover it, and leave it in the refrigerator. If you don’t have room, you can also try brining in a cooler (as long as the turkey can fit, completely covered by the solution, with the lid on). You’ll have to be vigilant about maintaining the temperature of the solution. Check it with a kitchen thermometer at regular intervals to be sure it stays between 26 and 40 degrees. To keep it cool without diluting the salt, place ice cubes sealed in plastic bags into the brining bath, replacing the cubes once they melt. Or, if you live in a cold climate, place your cooler outside. Stuffing Whether you call it stuffing or dressing, the savory bread mixture that you may or may not cook inside your turkey is an integral part of the Thanksgiving meal. Generally speaking, stuffings are cooked inside the bird, while dressings are baked in a casserole dish on the side, but the words are often used interchangeably. Both methods have their merits. Dressing Baking the dressing separately allows the top to brown and crisp. Bonus: an unstuffed turkey cooks faster and more evenly than a stuffed one. This is the biggest reason why, at our house, we bake the stuffing outside the bird, which leaves space in the cavity for aromatics to season the bird. Try placing onion and lemon quarters, bay leaves, peeled garlic, celery leaves, parsley and thyme in the turkey before roasting. Then, for that turkey flavor you sacrifice by not stuffing the bird, you can add stock and bits of crispy fried turkey skin to your dressing. (Take scraps of skin from the bird. If they are fatty, throw them into a dry pan, or else add a slick of oil, and fry over medium heat until well-browned. Salt immediately after frying.) You can also add any diced cooked turkey gizzards and shredded neck meat that you used for stock, along with the turkey liver, sautéed in butter and diced. Just don’t forget to make a vegetarian version if necessary. Stuffing Cooking the stuffing inside the bird allows the poultry juices and rendering fat to flavor the stuffing. You can make the stuffing up to 4 days ahead and keep it refrigerated until the last minute, but only stuff right before the bird goes into the oven. Stuffing expands as it cooks, so fill the turkey loosely. One important caveat on timing: if your stuffing recipe calls for shellfish or turkey giblets, they need to be fully cooked and kept hot for maximum food safety before stuffing, says the U.S.D.A. So add those at the last minute just before the stuffing goes into the bird. Stuffing slows down the roasting, so if your recipe calls for an unstuffed bird, add at least 30 minutes onto the cooking time (more if it’s a bigger bird). Take the temperature of the stuffing before pulling your turkey out of the oven. Both turkey and stuffing must reach 165 degrees. If the turkey is done but the stuffing isn’t — a likely scenario — take the turkey out of the oven to rest, transfer the stuffing to a casserole dish and put it back in the oven until it reaches the proper temperature. Do not leave the turkey in the oven while the stuffing catches up, temperature-wise; the bird could easily overcook in those extra minutes. Trussing If you don’t stuff your turkey, you really don’t need to truss it. Allowing untrussed wings and legs to have hot air circulating around them helps them cook faster, so the white and dark meat will all be done at the same time. I stopped trussing my unstuffed birds years ago and my turkeys are the better for it. If you do stuff your bird, trussing, or at least tying up the drumsticks, helps keep the stuffing in its proper place, especially when you are moving the bird from the roasting pan to the cutting board. Here’s the simplest way to do it. Place the turkey breast side up on the rack in the roasting pan. Criss-cross the legs and use a piece of butcher’s twine to tie them together at the ends, just above the joint. Wrap the twine twice around the legs to make sure they are secure. Take a long piece to twine and loop it around the body of the bird, so that the wings are pressed against the breast. Tightly tie the twine in a knot or bow at the top of the breast. The trussed turkey is now ready to roast. Simple Roast Turkey Makes 10 to 12 servings There are so many ways to roast a turkey. You can cook it low and slow, at 325 F (165 C) degrees for hours and hours until it’s done. You can blast it with 450 F (230 C)degree heat at the beginning of cooking to give it color and crisp the skin, then reduce the oven temperature to 350 F (175 C) degrees. You can reverse this, starting out with a low temperature and blasting the heat at the end. You can leave the bird breast side up the whole time, or turn it over halfway through. All of these methods work, and only trial and error will determine which is best for you. The recipe below is simple and direct, with stellar results. Or see this chart for approximate cook times if you just want to put the bird in a 350 F degree (175 C) oven. More tips for roasting are below, too. Ingredients • 1 turkey (10-12 lb or 4.5-5.5 kg) • Coarse kosher salt • 1 tablespoon black pepper • 1 lemon, zested and quartered • 1 bunch fresh thyme or rosemary • 1 bunch fresh sage • 12 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled • 1 bottle hard apple cider (12 ounces) • Dry white wine, as needed • 2 onions, peeled and quartered • 3 bay leaves • Olive oil or melted butter, as needed Preparation 1. Remove any giblets from the cavity and reserve for stock or gravy. Pat turkey and turkey neck dry with paper towel; rub turkey all over with 1/2 teaspoon salt per pound of turkey, the pepper and the lemon zest, including the neck. Transfer to a 2-gallon/7.5 litres (or larger) resealable plastic bag. Tuck herbs and 6 garlic cloves inside bag. Seal and refrigerate on a small rimmed baking sheet (or wrapped in another bag) for at least 1 day and up to 3 days, turning the bird over every day (or after 12 hours if brining for only 1 day). 2. Remove turkey from bag and pat dry with paper towels. Place turkey, uncovered, back on the baking sheet. Return to the refrigerator for at least 4 hours and up to 12 hours to dry out the skin (this helps crisp it). 3. When you are ready to cook the turkey, remove it from the refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature for one hour. 4. Heat oven to 450 F (230 C) degrees. In the bottom of a large roasting pan, add the cider and enough wine to fill the pan to a 1/4-inch depth. Add half the onions, the remaining 6 garlic cloves and the bay leaves. Stuff the remaining onion quarters and the lemon quarters into the turkey cavity. Brush the turkey skin generously with oil or melted butter. 5. Place turkey, breast side up, on a roasting rack set inside the roasting pan. Transfer pan to the oven and roast 30 minutes. Cover breast with aluminum foil. Reduce oven temperature to 350 F (175 C) degrees and continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of a thigh reaches a temperature of 165 F (75 C)degrees, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours more. Transfer turkey to a cutting board to rest for 30 minutes before carving. General tips for turkey roasting Size of turkey Approximate cook time at 350 F (175 C) degrees 9–11 pounds (4-5 kg) 2½ hours 12–14 pounds (5.5-6.5 kg) 3 hours 15-17 pounds (7-8 kg) 3½ hours 18-20 pounds (8-9 kg) 4 hours 21–23 pounds (9.5-10.5 kg) 4½ hours 24+ pounds 5+ hours • Basting: Some people swear by basting, but I never baste anymore. Every time you open the oven door to baste, you let the heat out. Basting also gives you a less crisp skin. Instead of basting, rub fat (butter, olive oil or coconut oil, for example) all over the bird just before you tuck it into the oven. Then leave it alone until it’s time to check for doneness. • Checking temperature: Start taking the turkey’s temperature at least 15 minutes before you think it might be done. To check its temperature, insert an instant-read thermometer into the thickest part of the thigh and under the wing, making sure you don’t touch any bones. • How to tell when it’s done: Your bird is done when its internal temperature reaches 165 degrees. Don’t be alarmed if the thigh meat near the bone still looks pink. Some turkeys are naturally pinker than others and a fully cooked bird will often have that color. • How long should it rest out of the oven: Once your turkey is cooked, let it rest out of the oven, covered loosely with foil, for 20 to 30 minutes before carving. • Aromatics for the pan: To add flavor to both the turkey (and the gravy, if you’re using pan drippings), you’ll want to add aromatics to the turkey cavity and to the bottom of the pan. Some combination of herbs, peeled garlic cloves, quartered onions and lemons, apples, mushrooms, celery, carrots and bay leaves can be used in both places. Then cover the bottom of the pan with a ¼ inch of liquid (wine, cider, beer, broth, water) so the drippings don’t burn. How to Bake Classic, American Apple Pie From Jamie Oliver Obviously apple pie is one of the all-time classic desserts. My tip to you is to use both cooking and eating apples in the filling. The best apple pies I’ve ever made are from apples bought at farmers’ markets where you can pick up lots of different varieties. Makes 6 servings Ingredients for the pastry250g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 50g icing sugar sea salt 1 lemon 125g cold butter, plus extra for greasing 1 large egg, preferably free-range or organic a splash of milkfor the filling1 large Bramley cooking apple 4 eating apples (try Cox’s or Braeburn) 3 tablespoons Demerara or muscovado sugar ½ teaspoon ground ginger a handful of sultanas or raisins ½ a lemon To make your pastry • • a • Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF gas-4 You can make your pastry like this (by hand), or pulse it in food processor From a height, sieve your flour into a large mixing bowl • Add the sugar, a pinch of salt, and finely grate over the zest of the lemon • Cut the butter into cubes, then add to the bowl • Use your fingertips to gently work the butter into the flour and sugar until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs • Crack the egg into the bowl with a tiny drop of milk and gently mix with your hands until the dough comes together • Wrap it in clingfilm and pop in the fridge to rest while you make the filling To make your filling • Use a speed peeler to peel all of your apples • Cut the Bramley apple into sixths and the eating apples into eighths, get rid of the cores • Add all the apple pieces to a small pan with the muscovado sugar, ginger and sultanas or raisins • Finely grate over the zest of half a lemon, then squeeze in a little juice • Toss to mix then put the pan on a medium low heat • Simmer gently for 5 minutes or until the apples are just tender • Remove from the heat and allow to cool completely To make and cook your pie • Dust a clean work surface and rolling pin with flour • Divide your pastry dough into two and roll out one half until ½cm thick • Carefully roll your pastry around the rolling pin, then unroll it carefully over a 20cm pie dish • Ease the pastry into the dish, making sure you push it into all the sides • Don’t worry if it tears or breaks – just patch it up – it will look nice and rustic • Pack the apple mix tightly into the pie dish • Separate your remaining egg and beat the yolk with a splash of milk and brush over the pastry rim • Roll out the other piece of dough until ½cm thick • Carefully roll the pastry around the rolling pin, then unroll it over the top of the pie • Fold the excess pastry back in then pinch and crimp the edges together using your finger and thumb • Brush the top of the pie with more egg wash, then using a small sharp knife, make a couple of small incisions in the centre of the pie to let steam escape as it cooks • Bake in the hot oven for 40 to 45 minutes until golden and firm to the touch • Serve with good-quality custard or ice cream
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