Thorpe Hall: a history Thorpe Hall, Thorpe Road, Longthorpe, Peterborough 1653 - Present Private family home Boarding school Convalescent home Maternity hospital Hospice Wedding venue Meeting place Community hub Thorpe Hall: a history Contents Setting the scene 3 The St John family 3 The house that Oliver built 4 Later generations 4 Enter the Bernard family 6 Over the next sixty years 7 Strong times 8 Up to the present 11 Thorpe Hall Hospice 12 A tour of the principal rooms 13 Acknowledgements16 Giving your support 17 2 Thorpe Hall: a history Setting the scene The St John family Picture a handful of cottages straggling along a narrow lane, so deeply rutted that it is hard to believe it was the main road from Castor – once home of the great Roman road builders – to Peterborough. That was the village of Longthorpe in the mid-1600s. Oliver St John was born in 1598. His mother Sarah was the daughter of Edward Buckley of Odell, Bedfordshire. His father was reputedly Oliver St John of Bletsoe, but there was some speculation as to young Oliver’s legitimacy. At 17 young Oliver went to study law at Queen’s College, Cambridge. While there he tried to stir up resistance to the King, was prosecuted and fined £5,000 – then a huge sum. He was also imprisoned ‘at the King’s pleasure’, but the prosecution was dropped almost immediately for no apparent reason, and he returned to university. Even Peterborough, about a mile away across open country, was a small place. Its outwardly splendid Abbey church, visible for miles across the Fens, was the mere shell of a cathedral, impoverished and decaying. Beside the Buttercross in the market square, St John the Baptist Church, built in happier days for the use of the townsfolk, was also in a dilapidated condition. In 1619, he went to Lincoln’s Inn and was eventually admitted to the Bar in 1626 at the age of 28. He entered into the employment and patronage of Francis, 4th Earl of Bedford, who was a leader of the so-called reform party, a group highly critical of the lifestyle and financial excesses of the Stuart Monarchs. The village, then known simply as Thorp – a reminder that the Danes settled there – had few inhabitants, yet it covered an area large enough to be divided into two manors. At the western end, near the 13th century church of St Botolph, stood a manor house with an ancient tower. Inside, its wonderful murals had long ago been covered with limewash and forgotten. He served a term as English Ambassador to Holland until he was recalled when war broke out between the two nations. He did not much enjoy his time in Holland, and his difficulties were compounded when he came under attack from a large group of Royalists living in exile in The Hague. But it was in the Low Countries that he discovered the blend of Italian classical features and local traditional Dutch styles that influenced the design of Thorpe Hall. At the eastern end, on land of the second manor that had been sequestrated (taken but not paid for) during the Commonwealth, a grand new ‘Mansion House’ was being built. It stood on a small rise, known as Hill Close, high enough to protect its vaulted cellars from the floods that covered the water meadows every winter and prominent enough to dominate the valley. Since the execution of Charles I, England under Oliver Cromwell had been unsettled, and the building of fine houses had almost come to a standstill. But in those insecure times, when many families had lost their homes and fortunes, one man had the confidence, ambition and wealth to build a house ‘in a manner little used in England before’. Back in England, Oliver St John became Cromwell’s Lord Chief Justice of the Pleas. By now he was 52, twice widowed, and had six children. St John’s second wife, Elizabeth, née Cromwell, was said to be Oliver Cromwell’s favourite cousin. Certainly they corresponded frequently. He addressed her as ‘my beloved cousin’ and reflected on his past errors. ‘I was a chief of sinners,’ he wrote to her from Ely, where he was then living. He was Oliver St John, the new Puritan Lord Paramount of the Liberty of the City of Peterborough. Cromwell’s influence may have helped St John acquire the land of Thorpe Hall. He asked to be ‘paid in kind’ for his work in Holland, and requested that he be given ‘the minster of The house he built, Thorpe Hall, remains one of the best preserved Cromwellian mansions in England. 3 Thorpe Hall: a history As construction progressed, the high, cubeshaped house with it distinctive roof, dormer windows and tall chimneys, must have attracted much interest. By August 1653 the diarist John Evelyn saw the building in progress and wrote that it was already a ‘stately palace’. Peterborough’. After the devastation wrought by Parliamentary soldiers the building was so damaged that it was due to be demolished. Doubtless, St John saw that the building materials would be useful for Thorpe Hall, but he went further. He gave the minster to the townsfolk of Peterborough to use as a parish church in place of St John’s, which was apparently even more ‘ruinous and gone to decay’ than the minster. Stone from the Abbey buildings was certainly incorporated in part of the 2,100-foot-long garden wall which surrounded a six-acre garden. The decorated stones were set with the patterned side innermost, and their ancient carvings remained unseen until repairs brought fragments to light. Some can be seen at intervals in the wall at the far north-east corner of the arboretum. For someone described as avaricious, to give away a valuable asset was out of character, but perhaps he did not expect his gift to be accepted. What followed next may have surprised him. The clergy and many of the townsfolk feted him as a benefactor. Symon Patrick, the cathedral’s chronicler of the time, hailed him as ‘a great Person of the Neighbourhood’. Then arrangements were made to repair the former abbey church, with materials from the buildings that were beyond redemption sold to raise money for the repairs. Who knows whether more stone from the old abbey buildings may be discovered one day in the walls of the house, four feet thick in places? With a readily available supply of cheap Barnack rubble, it is inconceivable that expensive Ketton stone would have been used for anything more than facing. Oliver St John, supporter of the forces that had desecrated the cathedral, had become the man responsible for its preservation. Looking at the house from north gate, the symmetrical lines of the main building are obvious. A flight of steps approaches a centrally placed door. Instead of a large ‘built-in’ porch from floor to roof, as was customary in the great houses of the time, there is a light open porch - simply a plastered ceiling resting on columns. It provides a balcony for the first floor, edged with a stone balustrade which may well have matched the barrier that once surrounded the roof platform. The house that Oliver built Oliver St John employed Peter Mills, later one of the architects who supervised the rebuilding of London after the Great Fire of 1666, to draw up plans for his manor house. St John knew exactly the kind of house he wanted – a similar design to those he had seen during his stay in Holland. The Dutch influence is shown in the hipped roof, which fitted all round the top of the building like a hat, instead of the house having a ridge with end gables. A large flat area on top was an observation platform, surrounded with a stone balustrade and this access via a glass cupola in the centre (both now removed). On the west side of the house is the service wing, and beyond that the stables. The gateways, also designed by Peter Mills, were built around the same time as the house and stables. The solid piers of the north gate are topped with falcons with half-spread wings; the ‘falcon rising’ is the crest of the St John family. Stone was brought from Ketton and slates from Collyweston. In February 1653 Mills contracted with John Ashley and Samson Frisby, two Ketton stonemasons, for the windows of the north and south fronts ‘as expressed and set forth in a Draught or map of the said intended House made by Peter Mills of London, Surveyor’. The contract is now in the British Museum. Later generations Oliver St. John did not spend many years at Thorpe Hall, and may not even have seen the finishing touches to his house. In 1658 Oliver Cromwell died and St John immediately went to 4 Thorpe Hall: a history many finishing touches to the house, and also developed the gardens and park. London. During the following year, Cromwell’s son Richard appointed him a member of the New Council of State, in which members swore to renounce the titles of ‘Charles Stuart and all his line’, to uphold Parliament and the Commonwealth, and to oppose the reestablishment of the House of Lords. In a corner of the park stood the old manor house, now demolished. Not far from it there remains a group of medieval fishponds which would have been used originally as ‘stew ponds’, storing freshwater fish caught in the river until they were needed for cooking. Francis was a keen fisherman and rented fishing rights on the River Nene. If he used the ponds at all, it is more likely that he stocked them with carp. Meanwhile, St John was surreptitiously taking precautions in case the Commonwealth should collapse. In order to be prepared for any change of fortune, he tried to raise money by selling some of his land. Francis is also thought to have built the nearby ‘grotto’ round a spring or wellhead. At that time, every self-respecting landowner had a grotto, often almost ridiculously elaborate in their mechanical effects and invariably adorned with alcoves, statuary and trellis. In the book Holy Wells, Beeby Thompson tells us that the stone basin of the well was still there in the nineteenth century. His misgivings proved justified. In 1660 King Charles II returned to power on a wave of popularity. St John was stripped of his position as Lord Chief Justice of the Common Pleas. During the House of Commons trial of those who were responsible for the Civil War and the murder of Charles I, he made an impassioned speech in his defence, quoting his gift of the cathedral to the people of Peterborough. Six feet deep and thirty feet in circumference, the basin was fed by water from an underground spring. A seat ran all the way round the wellhead, and there were three alcoves, all covered with a mound of earth making a domed roof. ‘The floor is slippery,’ Thompson noted, ‘and one needs artificial light.’ His life was spared, but he was banned from ever again holding public office. When the King heard his verdict, he expressed great regret at St John’s escape. An earlier eyewitness, writing in the 18th century, mentioned ‘Hallywell spring’ and explained that the water collected in the basin fed the nearby fishponds. This suggests channels or culverts, which may have been mistaken for tunnels in the past, giving rise to stories of underground passages – highly unlikely in such terrain! Oliver St John became one of the most hated men in the country. Afraid for his life, he fled to the coast under the alias of Montague and eventually went to Augsburg in Bavaria, where he died on 21st December 1673. His oldest son, Francis, succeeded him. Like his father, Francis was educated at university and Lincoln’s Inn. He served Peterborough in several Parliaments, and continued to build the collection of books for which the family became noted. In common with other libraries compiled at the time, a large percentage of the books were about history or religion. There is no evidence to support the legend that in the Middle Ages a hermit lived in the area we now call Holywell. Yet many springs and wells were once declared sacred, and if people believed that the water had healing powers it is easy to see how such a story could have arisen. Thompson tells us that the water was impregnated with iron and was believed to be beneficial in cases of rheumatism, gout and skin disorders. When Francis took over at Thorpe Hall, he had one nasty shock. Since Thorpe Hall had been built on sequestrated land, generally considered to have been stolen, it had deprived the Dean and Chapter of the income it would otherwise have generated. Francis had to pay a very large fine, about £1,500, in order to keep the property. In spite of this financial blow, he added Francis St John was succeeded by his son Oliver, and he in turn was succeeded by his son, another Francis. For the first time a hereditary title came to Thorpe Hall, when Francis was created a baronet in 1715. But the honour only lasted 41 5 Thorpe Hall: a history Enter the Bernard family years. Francis had two daughters but no sons, so the baronetcy died with him. In spite of all Sir Francis’ careful planning, things changed drastically in just a few years. In 1756 Dame Mary and her husband moved with their family into Thorpe Hall, but it was not long before their elder son, Robert, came of age and inherited all the English estates. When his father died in 1766, he inherited the title as well. He seems to have installed a lady friend at Thorpe, but he did not marry. Sir Francis inherited a fine mansion with magnificent grounds, together with property in other counties and valuable personal possessions. The library was becoming famous. Writing in the early 1700s, Philip Doddridge noted that it had ‘particularly the best editions of the classics’. During the last year of his life Sir Francis was appointed Sheriff of Northamptonshire – Peterborough City and Soke were part of the county until the middle of the 20th century. He died in 1756, and the house passed to his elder daughter Mary, who had married a distant relation, Sir John Bernard of Brampton. By 1769, only 13 years after his grandfather’s death, Robert was deeply in debt. Arrested for an election debt, he was bailed out by a solicitor, who paid a guinea as ‘civility money’. Meanwhile his brokers were spending long hours sorting out dealings with the East India Company, involving thousands of pounds. Mary had two sons and two daughters, and it was in the hope of continuing the line through the Bernards that Sir Francis settled the bulk of his estate on this family, in trust for its male heirs. Manors and lands in Northamptonshire, Essex, Suffolk, Staffordshire, Cambridge and the Isle of Ely were to go in trust for the elder Bernard son, Robert, while the Irish estates were to go eventually to the second son, William. The estates were mortgaged. Financial advisers arranged loans, most of them in four figures. There were court fines and fees of more than £100 a time to lawyers and other professionals. A dispute arose with the Dean and Chapter over their right to cut timber in Thorpe Park. It was a thoroughly miserable year. Figures suggest that there were few servants at Thorpe Hall, and consequently little attempt at self-sufficiency. Although the house had a wellequipped laundry, washing was sent out. Judging by the amount spent on beer, the brewery was idle, too. Quantities of eggs, bacon, chickens and dairy products were bought in, though the dairy had a butter churn, cheese press and other equipment. Presumably there was no one to work there or to look after hens or other livestock. Both Sir Francis’ daughters were treated very generously in his will. Frances, unmarried, received £10,000 plus £100 for mourning. She was also to have the household linen, furniture (including a ‘great Japanned Cabinet at Thorpe’), Dresden china, some of her mother’s jewellery and other items. Mary was left much more precious jewellery, also a ‘cabinet or box of inlaid Florence work of fine stones’, gold and silver medals, miniatures and enamels. The granddaughters would each receive £1,000 on marriage, ‘provided they marry to good liking of their father and mother’. Dining out was a common occurrence, with large amounts of wines and spirits consumed, and Sir Robert was still buying champagne. A single wine merchant’s bill at that time was £9. Compare this with a gift of £1.14s made to the poor of Grafham in 1779. Sir Francis specified that he wished to be buried in the family vault of the chapel at Thorpe and stated ‘I desire that my funeral may be performed with no more than what may be judged decent which I intimate here as my desire to obviate any censorious reflections evil-minded persons may perhaps be disposed to cast on my Executor on that account’. The sole executor was Sir John Bernard. A leather-bound survey of the Longthorpe and Dogsthorpe estates, dated 1770 and now in Huntingdon Records Office, reveals that the Bernards owned or leased a total of 119 acres of woodland. The 27 acres of Thorpe Wood were largely coppiced, and provided firewood, charcoal and fencing. 6 Thorpe Hall: a history Sir Robert Bernard died on 2nd January 1789. He had no children, so the baronetcy, like that of the St Johns, became extinct. stuffed seats and upholstery matching the bed, square table and basin (washstand), brass fender and iron dogs to hearth’. After Robert’s death the executors received dozens of outstanding bills. Half a year’s window tax (£16.0s.6d) was due, and a year’s copyhold rent was owed to the Dean and Chapter. Amos Pearson was owed £1, a small fortune to him, for looking after the Hall clocks for a year. From the kitchen came such items as a marble pestle and mortar, a lemon net and a pair of gold scales. A special room called a Flour House boasted a flour bin, a flour mill and a ‘bolting mill’ – a kind of sieve for sifting bran from flour. Among items in the larder were pickling pots, a wire safe to protect food from flies in the summer and a 10 foot long double salting lead, large enough to cure two sides of beef. The house was prepared for closure, but first its contents were to be sold to pay off Sir Robert’s debts, along with all the Bernard estates in this country. In March Dame Mary, by now living in Portland Place, London – her home for the rest of her life – received a bill for 12s 6d for packing up furniture, presumably her personal belongings. There was a further bill for six days’ work packing books. In the loft and cellars there were no less than 30 hampers, a deal chest, saddle, side-saddle and doeskin seat. There was also a hair drunk – a type covered with a skin, pelt outer most, which was much favoured by fashionable coach travellers. The brew house contained a cooler, hop sieve, funnel, casks and hundreds of bottles – presumably empty. A separate wines and spirits list in the sales catalogue ran to great length. The first item: ‘two dozen and seven bottles of fine old rum’. September saw the first of two sales, held on the premises, of ‘Elegant Household Furniture’. The first day alone raised £771.15s, and there were four more days to come, with another sale in October. In the period immediately following the sale of the contents, accounts show that a number of essential repairs were put in hand. A glazier named Thomas Baines was brought in two repair 12 panes of glass in the cupola. His bill came to 18s. Pay is also recorded for ‘looking after Thorpe Hall’ for seven weeks up to Christmas. Perhaps the executors had installed a caretaker. The sale catalogue gives an insight into the appearance of the rooms. There was a Blue Paper Room, Yellow Room, Green Passage Room and Crimson Bedroom, in addition to the principal reception rooms and master bedrooms. A room with masses of shelving and partitions may have been a schoolroom. Also specially named are the nursery, butler’s pantry and servants’ hall. Someone must have lost the keys in April 1790. There is a bill for five new padlocks, stock lock, hasps and staples, as well as for forcing an entry. The servants’ rooms seemed to have been remarkably comfortable. All the attic rooms had four-poster beds, and the curtains and linen were described as ‘fine’. One servant’s room had a feather bed and bolster. Bedclothes included Witney blankets and a Marseilles quilt. A painting called ‘Jephtha’s Rash Vow’ hung in the housekeeper’s room. Over the next sixty years Immediately the sales were over, negotiations began to sell Thorpe Hall to Earl Fitzwilliam. But it was not until March 1791 that legal representatives visited Dame Mary and her sister Frances in London to finalise the transfer of the property. The prices fetched can be judged by this single lot, which sold for just over £10: ‘Four-poster bed, crimson damask bed hangings, crankey mattress [a soft, weak mattress], check mattress, large goose feather bolster and pillows, 3 blankets, quilt, 4 window curtains, 6 walnut chairs with It must have been a sad day for the elderly sisters. Dame Mary died in 1793 and Frances, who had spent most of her later life at Welwyn in a house called St John Lodge, died a year later aged 82. 7 Thorpe Hall: a history Strong times According to her wish to be buried at Thorpe ‘with decency and solemnity’, she was laid to rest in the family vault in St Botolph’s church. The Reverend William Strong was a man of importance and wealth. A member of an oldestablished local family and a magistrate, he was Chaplain-in-Ordinary to Queen Victoria. He lived at Stanground Manor (now demolished), which was set in a small park between Stanground parish church and Morton’s Leam. The parkland is now a housing estate, visible from Fletton Parkway. The name of Bernard – often spelled with an “a” – lived on for many years. The stretch of the river near Thorpe had become known as Barnard’s Reach, and where the park sloped down to the water there was a boathouse which had been used by several generations at the Hall. It slowly fell into decay and was eventually removed. When the railway came to Peterborough, a branch line to Whittlesey was planned. This would skirt the Strongs’ land – too close for comfort. The family decided to leave. Earl Fitzwilliam already had Milton Hall only a few miles away, and also owned a palatial country seat, Wentworth Woodhouse in Yorkshire, so he was not interested in the house, though it was used occasionally to lodge family retainers. The land as incorporated into the Milton estate. Thorpe Hall needed many repairs, and Strong also wished to make some improvements. He lost no time in engaging a Peterborough architect called Ruddle to draw up plans. From 1809 to 1829 Thorpe Hall was used as a school. The Fitzwilliam archives in the Northamptonshire Record Office contain many letters from the headmaster, Edward Jenkins, to the 4th Earl, which reveal a close friendship between the two men. These letters and others to the 5th Earl show how the school flourished as a successful academy for the sons of well-to-do and aristocratic families. While this was happening, the gardener’s cottage was restored and the first estate servant, ‘farming man’ John Smith, was installed in it. His wage was the equivalent of 60 pence a week. At Stanground the Strongs had employed an average of 13 servants, for a total weekly wage bill of around £8.17s. Edward Jenkins and his wife Sarah lived in the Hall with their five children, most of whom appear to have been born there. Edward prepared boys for entry to Eton and other public schools; the boys followed a broad curriculum, and Edward’s wife Sarah also participated in their education. Some pupils remained at the school until it was time for them to go direct to university. Among them were Edward’s eldest son and a fellow pupil, Henry Prittie, who went together to Trinity College, Cambridge, in 1825. In a letter to Prittie’s father, Edward wrote: ‘I parted with Henry and my son Edward (18 years old) last night in the Cambridge coach – I shall be much disappointed if they have not apartments in college’. The Strong family had experience in farming and soon began to use the meadows and facilities of the estate, but initially the garden took preference. It looks as though the ‘farming man’ may have been gardener for at least a short while. In the month that he was taken on, 45 loads of peat costing £22.10s and 20 bushels of silver sand were delivered, in preparation for planting rhododendrons. Sir John Naesmyth of London was approached for advice on laying out the garden. He wrote proposing a two-day visit, for which his charge was five guineas a day plus travelling expenses – compare this to John Smith’s wage of 60 pence a week! Little is known about events at Thorpe Hall after the school closed in 1829. Although the house was let to tenants on two occasions, it remained mostly empty until 1850, when it was sold for £8,000, with 70 acres of park, to the Reverend William Strong. Evidently Ruddle had enough on his hands working on the house, so Arthur Hakewell was asked to design a conservatory. Before accepting the commission he visited the Hall and was so impressed that he made six etchings, which he hoped to publish. Strong 8 Thorpe Hall: a history must have given permission, and Hakewell wrote back in gratitude saying that he intended to dedicate the book to him. penthouse, a lean-to cover against a wall which protected the vines in bad winter weather but was removed in summer. Hakewell sent the plan for the conservatory, and offered to design ‘The Lodge’ for three guineas per plan. He kept up quite a correspondence, in one letter commending a Milanese decorator: ‘The display of Mr Galli’s exquisite taste at Thorpe Hall would prove to be a constant source of pleasure to Mr Strong and his friends’. New stone arrived from quarries at Bath for replacement columns in the centre of the hall. As an economy measure, plaster was used instead of wood for some of the mouldings. The screen in the corridor, however, was made of oak. In the Little Parlour, Mr White the painter had the tedious job of stripping the paint from the oak wainscot. When he had finished, a new floor was laid and the room (now the chapel) was renamed The Oak Room. However, the painted panelling in the library was left as it was. Meanwhile the first alterations to the house were taking place. We are fortunate that Strong kept what he called his ‘Labour Journal’, recording the progress of the work and sometimes, too, his frustration when materials failed to arrive on time or were of inferior quality. By August, Strong was getting anxious because the plaster was taking a long time to dry out, and a fire was lit in the new kitchen range. The house must have looked in a sorry state; floors were taken up, ceilings needed replastering and there was a delay in sending locks and casements from Birmingham. By Christmas the woodwork was suffering from damp, and Mrs Smith was commissioned to open and shut the windows. In January fires were lit in the house. The centre of the ground floor was opened up so that there was access to both stairs from the main corridor. Large panes of glass were substituted for the lead lights in the windows. Much of the original glass must have been broken, for bats had found their way in; one ‘chief resort of these animals’ was the carved wainscot in the first floor Drawing Room. In January 1851, 200 bats were caught. They must have done a lot of damage, because this room needed a new plaster ceiling, with a geometric pattern. In spring 1851 outside work resumed. The front of the garden pavilion was taken down and reerected in a new position. One of the falcons on the north gateway was removed for restoration, and the Octagon roof was repainted. In February, Strong noted in his Journal every variety of nectarine and peach tree planted. Five apricot trees were dug up from Stanground and brought over for the new kitchen garden. Stones were fixed for a new panterre. In March 1852 a new chimneypiece in Derbyshire marble had arrived, and three chimneypieces from Stanground were moved to Thorpe. Other grate surrounds were tiled, and a grate ordered for the Dining Room. That Easter Dr Skrimshire, a friend of Strong’s, offered to give him a pair of peacocks. But the Rev William had doubts. ‘I declined,’ he wrote, ‘dreading their gardening propensities’. We know that a Dr Skrimshire, probably the same man, was distilling peppermint – a cure for flatulence, headaches, toothache and upset stomach – and lavender at Holywell in 1850. There are also reports that the distillery was used to make extract of henbane and belladonna. Perhaps Dr Skrimshire wished to give the Strongs a present as a ‘thank you’ for the use of the distillery on their land. At last, on 23rd July 1852, the family – the Rev William, his wife Isabella (nee Isham), and their two sons, Charles Isham and Harry – moved in. Strong, already in his sixties, wrote: ‘Slept for the first time with the family, two years having been consumed in preparing it for our reception’. Even so, on the ground floor only the Oak Room and the Shell Room (now the Ante Room) next to it were ready. The family’s first dinner party in their new home, in August, was held in the Library, not the Dining Room. On May 10th, Strong noted, the grapery was being restored. This may have been the 9 Thorpe Hall: a history piece by piece and re-erected at Thorpe. Accounts show that the whole transfer, including three pounds of nails, cost less than £27. Was it the presence of his wife and lady visitors that suddenly made Strong aware of the nakedness of the ‘Playing Boys’, supporters for the St John arms in the Great Hall? He had the paint removed and some concealing leaves added. Since then, someone has broken the plaster leaf from one of the figures. Strong kept an eye on the workmen. He tells of the dismissal of a youth who was missing when needed to help hang a door. The boy had been led astray, and when he hopefully turned up again for work the following week, he was sent packing. The next month, pheasants, canaries and pigeons were delivered. It is not clear whether the pheasants were to be released into the woods for the pleasure of shooting parties, or kept till spring for breeding. The pigeons may have been fantails to adorn the gardens. That winter the new ice house, with its thatched roof, was completed. Plans show that it was somewhere south of the stable block. In February it was filled with ice, which was in plentiful supply that year. The boys had been skating on the frozen flood water. The first overnight visitors were a Mrs Vane and her son. She may have been on her way south to take her son back to public school, as Strong’s next remark is that the boys went back to school at Harrow and Bayford. The Library shelving was completed, and the first paintings bought specially for Thorpe were hung. They were typical of Victorian taste in art: ‘The Gulf of Finland’, ‘Sebastopol’ and ‘Balaclava’. At the huge cattle auction at Bridge Fair in October, Strong or his agent bought some cattle. They were put into the paddock to crop it down. In the North garden a ‘serpentine walk’ was pegged out. About this time the remaining timbers of the boathouse on Barnard’s Reach were removed. The river was almost half a mile from the house, but the ‘Low Grounds’ and meadow between were part of the Thorpe Estate, and led to the walled garden. The Nene gave access by water to Stanground sluice, and it is possible that some of the materials and plants removed from the Manor were transported by boat. The wrong tiles were delivered from Minton for the Library. ‘The green a complete failure,’ recorded Strong. As we know that woodwork was painted green, the tiles were presumably a bad match. In the journal, Strong’s handwriting started to deteriorate, suggesting he fell ill, and soon his written commentaries came to an end. But activity around the estate continued. Ruddles accounts show he was still employed at Thorpe, and in 1856 two lodges were built for the park. Among the papers is a catalogue advertising garden ornaments, including no less than 246 stone urns. There are dozens in a similar style around the garden today. Just before Christmas, three panels of carved elm arrived for the main staircase. There had been difficulty in getting large enough planks, and Strong noted that he had ended up buying back at auction the very same elm he had felled and sold from his own land some time earlier! Work at Thorpe had involved a huge financial outlay. In the initial stages alone, more than £4,000 was spent. From the family’s notes and accounts it is clear that they were good business people and, although wealthy, were not wasteful. A large ironing board for the laundry was made from planks from the dining-room floor at Stanground! By 1858 the elder son, Charles Isham, was at Oxford University, probably enjoying boisterous undergraduate parties. An itemised bill lists a sum due to a glazier, as well as room rent, tuition and dinners in hall. Although the Rev Strong did not continue his journal, he was fit enough in December 1859 to chair a meeting in the Town Hall – probably By now Strong had probably decided no one would buy Stanground because of its proximity to the railway line. He even had the lodge removed 10 Thorpe Hall: a history his public service. His daughter Grace, who died in 1926, is remembered in Longthorpe Church, where we read that she was ‘for many years a mainstay in the music in this church’. the upper room of the Guildhall or Buttercross, which was rented out for public meetings. On this occasion Strong successfully formed a Peterborough Volunteer Rifle Corps, with members aged from 17 to 48 years. Up to the present By the early 1860s Charles had left university and was living at home, perhaps being groomed for estate management, and fox-hunting every day possible in the season. His sporting diary describes being caught in the rain in Ferry Meadows, and how Mr Fitzwilliam was thrown and broke his collar bone only a few days after his second whip, Goodhall, had done the same thing. Both Charles’s sons followed military careers. The eldest, William, inherited Thorpe Hall, but after the First World War he decided to put it up for auction. No buyer came forward; England was in recession, the housing market was sluggish and Thorpe Hall was very expensive to run. By 1926 a firm of estate agents had been given authority to sell off any removable parts of the house or garden for which a buyer could be found. The following year a London antiques dealer and collector, Edward Meaker, bought both house and park for £11,500 – not much more than Strong had paid the previous century. There were grouse shoots in Perthshire and pheasant shoots locally. It seems that destroying rooks and their nests had also become a local sport – but not for trespassers. A man named Sismey was jailed for a week for rook-shooting on the estate. Charles married two years before his father’s death in 1866. His mother died in Southsea 12 years later; there is a memorial to her on the south wall of the nave of Longthorpe Church. Over the following decades Charles has left us detailed weather reports and an excellent rainfall chart, as well as a bee-keeping diary which reveals his considerable knowledge of the subject. He noted a recipe for bee syrup, and another for an insecticide. Meaker was, however, too late to save the panelling, doors and fireplace from the St John Library (now the Parlour). These had been bought as a package by Lady Baillie, the new owner of Leeds Castle, who had embarked on an enormous project of renovating and upgrading Leeds. Thorpe Hall’s loss has been Leeds Castle’s gain. The empty room in which they were installed is now an elegantly furnished delight – known as the Thorpe Room. There was a very respectable income from fenland farms, which were showing a 10 per cent profit. Nevertheless, Charles sold some of his land, including the Bluebell Inn in Stanground, and in 1886 the Manor and 11 acres of land went under the hammer. It sold for £1,700 and 13 years later was burned to the ground. It is not clear whether the stone chimney piece in the Library was in place when Meaker arrived. Of Continental origin, it resembles a smaller canopy in the Queen’s Bathroom at Leeds and Lady Baillie may have supplied it as a swap for the marble one. Unfortunately there is no documentation for any part of the transaction. Charles was active in local politics. The base he had kept at the Manor made him eligible for the post of Lord High Sheriff of Huntingdonshire and Cambridge, to which he was appointed in 1876. In 1886 he and others took on the railway company, asking for aid for a new infant’s school for Stanground. The Meaker family were at Thorpe Hall for only 10 years. Sadly both parents died, leaving the property in trust for the children, who were still under age. Then came the Second World War, and the house was requisitioned for use as a hospital. Fortunately the Meaker Trust insisted that plasterwork and woodwork must be protected, and the gardens cared for. He died in 1914 after a long and busy life. A memorial in Peterborough Cathedral, bearing his crest, a coat of arms and motto, recognised 11 Thorpe Hall: a history volunteered to join the First Aid Nursing Yeomanry. She later served with the Polish section of the Special Operations Executive, the highly secret organisation created by Winston Churchill to co-ordinate Resistance activities in German occupied Europe. What she witnessed with the SOE made her determined to relieve the suffering of a devastated continent. Thorpe Hall receives regular mentions in the minutes of the Medical Board of Peterborough District Hospital, recorded by Dr William Marshall, whose daughter Sheila was a nurse at Thorpe Hall for many years and a founder nurse when the Hall became a Sue Ryder home. From the minutes we learnt that in June 1941 the Management Committee visited Thorpe Hall and asked the sister in charge to consider how extra staff and a houseman could be accommodated without reducing the available bed space below 100. However, on 21st August 1941 it was agreed that Thorpe Hall should take 23 patients, both men and women. In 1953 she used £1,000 of her own savings as a living memorial to the millions who died in the two World Wars, to provide homes and care teams for the sick and disabled in any part of the world where need and opportunity presented itself. In 1959 she married war hero Group Captain Leonard Cheshire, who died in 1992. She was created a Life Peer in 1978. By the time Baroness Ryder died in 2000, her charity had helped more than half a million people of 50 nationalities. On 13th November 1941 the Air Raid Procedure was put into place, following a warning of intensive raids. Ambulances were to be diverted to Thorpe Hall, the most urgent for surgery. By 1942 more than 1,000 patients had passed through Thorpe Hall’s doors. Once Lady Ryder had bought Thorpe Hall, a great deal of work and money was needed to repair, equip and update the building to the standard required to meet health and safety and other regulations. In total, the purchase and renovation cost some £3 million. After the war Thorpe Hall became a maternity home. Thousands of babies were born within its walls and, locally, many people boast of being a ‘Thorpe Hall baby’. Thorpe Hall’s days as a maternity hospital came to an end when the now defunct maternity unit at Peterborough District Hospital was opened in 1971. The building, now Grade 1 listed, was basically sound and, thanks to the Meaker Trust’s insistence on preserving the plasterwork and woodwork, removal of the protective covers revealed much of the original beauty. Thorpe Hall lay empty. In 1976 it was sold to Peterborough City Council. Many possible uses were discussed, including a museum and meeting venue, but nothing ever came of these ideas. Eleanor Beddows, the first Matron at Thorpe Hall when it became a Sue Ryder hospice, cajoled local businesses to donate goods so that the house was ready to receive the first patients. Through her enthusiasm and determination, she also enlisted many volunteers to help out wherever needed. Thorpe Hall Hospice During the next decade, Thorpe Hall became derelict, a victim of vandals, arsonists and the elements. Then, in 1986, Lady Sue Ryder acquired the Hall for use as a Sue Ryder hospice. Thorpe Hall became a 20 bed hospice, providing specialist palliative care for adults from across the region. The 20 beds were split across eight rooms on two floors with shared bathrooms. Sue Ryder was born in 1923 into a large family of Yorkshire land-owners. Two early influences determined her life: the example of her muchloved mother’s voluntary social work, and witnessing the widespread social misery caused by the Great Depression. Specially trained medical and nursing staff control patients’ pain and other symptoms while offering emotional and spiritual support. Around 60% of patients are able to go home after a short stay, pain and symptom free, to spend When war broke out, she left school and 12 Thorpe Hall: a history to the central area, now known as the Marble Hallway, and replaced them with a wall. In his day a pair of large marble console tables stood in the passage, with rococo gilt pier-glasses above them. precious time with their loved ones. Some may return nearer the end of their lives for further symptom control or end of life care. The emphasis at Thorpe Hall Hospice, in line with Sue Ryder’s philosophy and now adopted by palliative care experts the world over, is on personalised, holistic care, with every patient given what they need whether that’s medication, the chance to talk, the comfort of knowing loved ones are receiving support or simply a lovely cup of tea. The Great Hall Despite its grand name, this room was where Oliver St John would have received the lowliest of people. Above the fireplace is his coat of arms - in his day they would have been a blaze of colour. The leaves and vines were added by the Rev William Strong, who used the room as a dining room and did not want his family to be exposed to the nakedness of the figures. The bear’s foot crest on the fireplace belongs to the Strong family. The former service wing of Thorpe Hall houses a Day Centre which is open five days a week to people who have progressive and/or neurological conditions such as multiple sclerosis and Parkinson’s disease. As well as some clinical care, it offers companionship, activities and outings in a relaxed social setting. The fireplace is of limestone, part of it polished to achieve a polychrome effect. Most of the wainscot panelling is original 17th century, except on the west wall which is 19th century, as is the ceiling. In 2015, Thorpe Hall is set to undergo another transformation. While the Day Centre will remain, the in patient unit will move to a brand new, purpose-built building in the Hall’s former orchard on the north side of the west wing. The single storey building has been designed in keeping with the Hall and within the strict regulations governing the listed Hall and gardens. The original stone floor was of octagons and lozenges, the latter in a darker stone. The Rev William Strong had it taken up and re-layed in the service wing, replacing it with the present wooden floor. Unlike the south side of the house, the windowsills here are the full thickness of the walls. This was to accommodate windows to light the cellars, which run only under the northern half of the house. In Charles Isham Strong’s time the room was adorned with large cases containing his collection of stuffed birds. The former patient rooms will house office and administration staff and become the base for new community services. A number of options for the use of the ground floor and other rooms are currently being explored. The hospice remains part of the national Sue Ryder charity, which relies on voluntary funding and support for much of its income. The Parlour This room housed Oliver St John’s library, and was also used as a reception room where he gave audience to visitors who were not considered important enough to be formally greeted in the first floor Great Chamber – the room above the Great Hall. A tour of the principal rooms The North Passage and Marble Hallway Entering the house by the main door, you find yourself in the North Passage. This was originally a part of the Great Hall to the left, separated only by a screen of columns which corresponded to a medieval ‘screens passage’. The wall to the right was adorned with pilasters, probably to correspond with the columns opposite. The fireplace is a replacement for the original, sold to Leeds Castle in 1926 along with the panelling, and is probably of early 16th century Belgian or German origin. Originally the fireplace was not in the middle of the wall but about two-thirds of the way along it, near the west end – perhaps to The Rev. William Strong moved the columns 13 Thorpe Hall: a history letters, kept his most secret papers and met his secretary and confidante, John Thurloe, to discuss Cromwell’s latest activities. enable Oliver St John to sit near the fire to receive visitors while keeping them at a distance. In Charles Isham Strong’s day, the Library was where the family gathered after dinner. Here his daughters and his son Charles would sing while another daughter, Grace, accompanied them on the grand piano. They also played games here. A ‘long table-drawer’ contained Flora Lotto, Happy Families, chess and bezique. Charles’s wife Katherine particularly enjoyed a poetry game, in which each person recited one verse of a poem. The room’s status is reflected in the lavish décor. The panelling is of oak, but William Strong recorded that he had it stripped of paints, so it may originally have been enriched with trompe l’oeil painting. A motif of swags of fruit appears in wood, in plaster and in pale apricot marble. The panels in here closely resemble those that were once in the Parlour, reaffirming that all the rooms along the south side of the ground floor were conceived ‘en suite’ as a single apartment. The original doorway from the Ante Room has been blocked to accommodate the chapel’s altar. The free-standing bookshelves included many ornithological volumes (ornithology was one of Charles’ passions). Today the books in the Strongs’ library are owned by Cambridgeshire County Council Library Services, and most of the 546 volumes are on loan to Ayscoughfee Hall in Spalding. The servants’ hall Archaeological investigations suggest that the area to the left of the main door, now housing lavatories, lifts and a modern staircase, was once a single room that ran from the west wall of the house to the north passage and served as the Servants’ Hall. The Ante Room This was once known as the Shell Room because of the scallop shell motif included in its magnificent 17th century moulded plaster work ceiling, which gives some idea of the quality of workmanship that would have originally existed in all the rooms. The decoration of swirling acanthus leaves with garlands and distorted human figures is closely based on the type of antique ‘arabesques’ which were enthusiastically revived during the Italian Renaissance. The wainscot is a simplified version of that in the Great Hall, indicating that the two rooms were originally conceived as a matching pair. Such a lavish room for the servants may seem unusual, but in St John’s time senior servants were more like medieval retainers than simply domestic staff. The panelling, simpler in style and of lesser quality, appears to date from around the turn of the 18th century. To the left of the stone fireplace is a ‘jib door’ which conceals a cupboard formed by William Strong out of what was originally a servants’ door. In the Strongs’ time the room served as a study. At some time in the 18th century, the easternmost bay of the room was subdivided to create two small rooms, with a passage between them leading to the North Passage. According to the inventory of 1789, one of these rooms was used as a store for tableware and glassware. In the northern of the two rooms, traces were found of a sink (probably of lead or lead-lined stone) that would have been used for rinsing glasses and dishes. The Chapel Despite its comparatively small size, this was once one of the most important rooms in the house: Oliver St John’s closet. In the 17th century, the closet served the function of a private study, as well as a ‘sanctum sanctorum’ where the owner would keep his most treasured possessions. Here St John would have done all his business, written This reduction in the size of the Servants’ Hall reflects the declining status of servants in the 18th century. This decrease continued throughout the 19th century until, by the Edwardian era, servants were as far as possible kept out of sight. 14 Thorpe Hall: a history dated at 1654. It is a fine example of a scroll stair with pierced work. The exceptionally wide handrails are of oak; so are the newel posts with their large, intricately carved finials. Between each pair of newel posts is a panel which started out as a solid sheet of elm. The deeply cut pattern is of swirling acanthus leaves, ‘pierced’ right through in places. Because of the risk of fire, the service wing housing the kitchen was originally separate from the main house. But sometime in the 18th century the narrow link building was built to connect the house to the service wing via a door in the middle of the west wall of the Servants’ Hall. The Rev William Strong substantially altered the Servants’ Hall in the 1850s, replacing the two small rooms with a butler’s pantry and further reducing it in size by adding a passage which ran along the south side of the link building to connect it with the service wing. The link building became Thorpe Hall hospice’s reception and Coffee Shop. The gardens No one knows how much of the present garden was finished in Oliver St John’s day, but it is thought that the general layout to the east of the house has been little changed, though the stone edging of the flower beds was added around 1850. The main staircase Now Grade 2* listed, the gardens are open to the public. This magnificent piece of woodcarving has been 15 Thorpe Hall: a history Acknowledgments Thorpe Hall would like especially to thank Audrey Purser for allowing us to use the information she included in the first edition of the History of Thorpe Hall. As she wrote, by far the greater part of the information comes from documents, wills, family papers, diaries and accounts, as well as from personal observation. Further historical detail was found in: Victoria County History for Northamptonshire Peculiarities of Water and Wells, Beeby Thompson History of the English House, Gotch Charles I, Charles Carlton Burke’s Extinct and Dormant Baronetcies Fairbairn’s Book of Crests, James Fairbairn Lives of the Stuart Age, ed. Edwin Riddell The Correspondence of Philip Doddridge, G.F. Nuttall Notes of the Northants Antiquarian Society, Sir Giles Isham Stanground – A History, J. Brewster The Correspondence of Lord Fitzwilliam of Milton and his Steward, 1697 – 1709, Hainsworth and Walker The Greatness of Oliver Cromwell, Maurice Ashley Memoirs of the St. Johns, Mark Noble A Brief Historical and Architectural Guide to Thorpe Hall, Justin Ayton Minutes of the Medical Board at Peterborough and District Memorial Hospital, Dr William Marshall Full details concerning coats of arms, entitlement, genealogy etc can be obtained, on payment of a search fee, from Rouge Croix Pursuivant of Arms, College of Arms, Queen Victoria Street, London EC4V 4BT. © 1994 Audrey Purser. First published by Sue Ryder Care Thorpe Hall 1994. Second edition published 2005. This edition published by Sue Ryder Thorpe Hall 2015 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright holder. Call: 01733 225 900 16 Giving your support The continuation of Sue Ryder, Thorpe Hall Hospice relies on your support. There are lots of ways you can get involved: • take part in a challenge – run, walk, bike, hike, climb or row in return for sponsorship • organise a fundraising event of your own – a retro disco, a neighbourhood bake sale, a dress down day at work… • ask your local shop to put a collecting tin on their counter • encourage your community group or school to fundraise for us – host an Easter egg hunt, a summer barbecue or a fun day • ask your workplace to choose Sue Ryder, Thorpe Hall Hospice as their charity partner and raise cash alongside your colleagues • volunteer – in our shops, at Thorpe Hall or at an event • donate your unwanted items to our network of shops • shop in your nearest Sue Ryder store • donate by giving us a call on 01733 225 999. We can also talk to you about regular donations • leave us a legacy • share your Thorpe Hall experience with us • follow us on Facebook and Twitter and help us spread the word For dedicated support, advice and materials call our fundraising team on 01733 225 999, email or sign up online www.sueryder.org/get-involved Thorpe Hall Hospice, Thorpe Road Longthorpe Peterborough Cambridgeshire PE3 6LW / SueRyderThorpeHallHospice @SRThorpeHall Sue Ryder provides incredible hospice and neurological care for people facing a frightening, lifechanging diagnosis. We do whatever we can to be a safety net for our patients and their loved ones at the most difficult time of their lives. We see the person, not the condition. For more information about Sue Ryder visit: www.sueryder.org call: 0845 050 1953 email: [email protected] Sue Ryder is a charity registered in England and Wales (1052076) and in Scotland (SCO39578). Ref no. 03862 © Sue Ryder. January 2015 17
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