Journal Journalof ofCoastal CoastalResearch Research SI 64 pg -- pg 1316 1319 ICS2011 ICS2011 (Proceedings) Poland ISSN 0749-0208 Erosion of a depositional coast in NE Rhodos island (SE Greece) and assessment of the best available measures for coast protection C. Anagnostou†, P. F. Antoniou† and G. A. Hatiris∞ †Institute of Oceanography Hellenic Centre for Marine Research, Athens 19013, Greece [email protected]; [email protected] ∞Hydrobiological Station of Rhodos Hellenic Centre for Marine Research, Rhodos 85100, Greece [email protected] ABSTRACT Anagnostou, C., Antoniou, P.F. and Hatiris, G.A., 2011. Erosion of a depositional coast in NE Rhodos island (SE Greece) and assessment of the best available measures for coast protection. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 64 (Proceedings of the 11th International Coastal Symposium), 1316 – 1319. Szczecin, Poland, ISSN 0749-0208 The mixed material beach at the north eastern tip of the island of Rhodos in south eastern Greece has experienced strong erosion during the last few decades due to a progressive decrease in sediment feed, resulting from human induced activities in the hinterland and local annual and seasonal wind-wave variations. The eroding beach threatens valuable public infrastructure as well as safe recreational use. The local government and other involved decision makers are particularly interested in the protection of the coastal infrastructure from damage, as well as the preservation of the beach, which has attracted great touristic interest over the years, and protection of its users. A thorough coastal geomorphological survey of the area coupled with an assessment of the local wind and wave climate was conducted in an attempt to determine the drivers of erosion and propose potential methods of coast protection to involved authorities. The results of the analysis helped to critically assess the available solutions and their impacts; it was revealed that the optimal method for beach protection should involve a periodic artificial nourishment scheme, supported by a monitoring program, with the aim to restore gradually all the material lost since the early 20th century. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: Sediment Starvation, Coastline Change, Beach Nourishment INTRODUCTION The main goal of this paper is to propose optimal methods for beach protection for an eroding beach in Greece. Coastal erosion is a very well known phenomenon in Greece, currently affecting various coastal areas and populations (Xeidakis et al., 2006). The dynamics of a coastal area are mainly driven by two mechanisms: that of sediment feed and that of deposition (Kombiadou et al., 2009). The first depends on the geological substratum of the greater region, the geomorphology, the local hydrology and land coverage; while deposition greatly relies on the wind/wave regime (tides in Greece do not play a remarkable role in coastal dynamics). Seasonal variations of meteorological phenomena drive sediment transport dynamics and seasonal coastline changes and, in turn, determine erosion and accretion patterns. On the other hand, various human activities influence coastal processes. The EU Recommendation on Coastal Zone Management (McKenna et al., 2008) recommends that authorities attempt to work with natural processes. This presents several challenges (Cooper & McKenna, 2008). The problem of erosion has become particularly intense during the last 30 years at the NE coasts of the island of Rhodos in SE Greece. This disturbance has been expressed by a progressive deficit in sediments, which has led to significant coastline retreat with significant environmental and socioeconomic impacts given the area is also a major tourist attraction. In this work, an attempt was made to combine geomorphological information and wind/wave data which were either directly available or collected in the field, in order to define which processes drive erosion locally and propose feasible remedial and protection measures. DESCRIPTION OF STUDY SITE The eroding coast of concern is located at the NE tip of the island of Rhodos in the SE Aegean Sea in Greece (Figure 1). It is a mixed material depositional coast, characterized by a natural spit of reversed U-shape, approximately 500 m long. The shoreline comprises a beach with tourist facilities (sun chairs, umbrellas, etc.), a lighthouse which is operated by the local Port Authorities and the facilities of the Hydrobiological Station of Rhodos. The area is also very densely populated; the city of Rhodos has grown towards the north and over the years has seen major development, with large hotel complexes and other infrastructure to the NW as well as port and tourist facilities (including a casino) to the east. The area of study is the only uncovered area, with sand and gravel beaches on both sides. The Hydrobiological Station of Rhodos which is located at the tip is a research unit of the Hellenic Centre for Marine Research (HCMR), dedicated to aquatic research, conservation of the marine environment and environmental awareness. It hosts an aquarium museum which attracts more than 200,000 visitors annually. Besides the main building of the Station, there are also underwater pumping facilities extending 30 m deep to the west, which provide seawater to the aquarium tanks. The geological substratum of the NE tip of Rhodos is made up of coherent Plio-Pleistocene formations of marl, sandstone and conglomerates (Kombiadou et al., 2009). These formations have been the main source of sediment of the area during the recent Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 64, 2011 1316 Erosion and coast protection methods Figure 1. Study site, Rhodos island, SE Aegean Sea, Greece (Photo of April 22nd, 2009, adapted from Google Earth). Holocene. The geomorphological relief is generally low and mild. The seabed is also dominated by hard bottom formations of PlioPleistocene origin. The area is frequented by W and NW winds which generate waves that cause a clockwise sediment displacement from west to east. At the same time, stronger, sometimes extreme, but less frequent E and SE winds relocate the sediment counterclockwise from the east back to the west. This seasonal variation induced by dominant westerly winds and strong easterly winds causes significant changes in coastline configuration which are further translated to local coastal erosion. At the same time, the great urban development of the area especially during the last few decades, as well as uncontrolled anthropogenic activities of the hinterland, such as removal of sediment from local rivers (the main sediment source of the study area) for construction purposes, have led to sediment starvation and amplified coastal erosion. This erosion induced by natural processes and human activity has not only impacted on the beach but on the local coastal infrastructure as well: the lighthouse which is located at the tip has suffered considerable damage during major storm events, whereas Figure 2. The lighthouse after a major storm event in March 2003. wave action has also damaged part of the underwater foundation of the Hydrobiological Station and tourism facilities (Figure 2). The significant environmental and socioeconomic implications of these phenomena have alerted the local government, the administration of the Station and the Port Authorities which are particularly concerned about the protection of the infrastructure from erosion and damage, as well as for the preservation of the coastal area, which has attracted great touristic interest over the years. METHODS In the present work the problem of erosion is investigated with the aim to establish a clear picture about the mechanisms that shape the coast of concern and those driving erosion which both have triggered a considerable loss of beach material since the mid 20th century. A thorough geomorphological survey of the area included coastal and bathymetric surveying and profiling using GPS and portable echosounding equipment. The mechanisms that shape the beach, the local morphodynamics and the geological background of the area were defined and a detailed sediment Figure 3. Historical coastline changes between 1997 and 2005 (after Kombiadou et al., 2009). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 64, 2011 1317 Anagnostou et al. investigation at certain beach locations was performed. Recent changes in coastline configuration between 1997 and 2005 (Figure 3) were also analysed. This was combined with a study of the local wind and wave climate. Available historical wind data from the meteorological station of the International Airport of Rhodos covering the time frame between 1955 and 1986 was utilized to acquire an image of the wind climate in mid 20th century. High resolution hindcast wind and wave results produced during the operational phase of the POSEIDON system (Soukissian et al., 2000) operated by HCMR, covering the period between 1999 and 2005, were also used. The results refer to an unobstructed offshore location 25 km NE of the concerned site (28ο30"Ε, 36ο30"Ν) at 900 m deep. Once the wind and wave regime was established and the morphodynamics (sediment type, paths etc.) were clarified, the next step was to assess the potential solutions for coast protection. These were first categorized according to their type and position on the coast and each solution was then evaluated based on its characteristics, possible impacts on the coast of concern and long term effectiveness. RESULTS Seabed morphology Figure 4 shows the locations where beach profiling and bathymetric surveys were performed. The profiles extended to a distance offshore where the first Posidonia oceanica meadows were witnessed (at 10 m deep). No profiling was conducted west of the study site, since this is the less impacted part of the site. The eastern part of the study site is characterized by slopes of the order of 10-12%, for depths ranging between 0 to 5 m. Further deep the slopes become milder (3%). To the north, the relief becomes smoother and the slope is uniform, at 6%, between 0 and 10 m deep. Greater slopes (of the order of 20%) are encountered further deep (below 10 m deep). The seabed at the eastern part of the site (which is strongly influenced by severe wave action during winter) exhibits a very characteristic zoning, which is summarized as follows: i. Between 0 and 4.8 m: a hard substrate zone with conglomerate formations parallel to the coastline. ii. Between 4.8 and 7.0 m: sand and gravel formations and sand bars. iii. Between 7.0 and 8.0 m: hard bottom substrate – conglomerate formations. iv. Between 8.0 and 10.0 m: zone with fine sand to gravely sand formations and bars. v. Below 10 m: scarce rocky formations and Posidonia beds – morphology is considered as non-changing. Wind and Wave Climate Analysis Analysis of the historical wind data from the meteorological station of the airport of Rhodos for the years 1955-1986 as well as wind/wave analysis of the hindcast data (1999-2005) showed that winds of westerly directions (SW, W and NW) dominate the area and the frequency of their occurrence is of the order of 60%. On the other hand, winds of easterly directions (NE, E and SE) are remarkably less frequent (11% frequency of occurrence). Winds directly blowing from North are less experienced. The western part of the study area is directly exposed to the dominant westerly winds which may reach in intensity the order of 6 on the Beaufort scale. These winds occur during spring and summer. The eastern part is dominated by SE winds, usually blowing in the area during winter; although less frequented these winds are much stronger (8 on the Beaufort scale) and create waves of relative intensity which can relocate large amounts of sediment. Sediment transport patterns Due to the configuration of the coastline and angle of incident waves there is significant sediment move around the tip and therefore seasonal coastline changes. During spring and summer, the western and north western winds are dominant and create waves of relevant direction and intensity. These waves move sediments in a clockwise manner towards the north; sediment is deposited on the northeastern side of the tip. Due to wave diffraction, a sand spit is formed towards the east. Keeping in mind this material originated from the western part of the tip, during summer months the width of the western side becomes significantly smaller. On the other hand, during winter months, the eastern part of the tip is dominated by easterly and south easterly winds which generate waves of same directions. In a similar manner to that described before, wave action during winter forces sediments to move counterclockwise back to the west. In other words, the material which was once forced away from the west now returns where it came from. If winter events are intense and durable, then there is relocation of significant sediment amounts to the west and this has threatened the coastal infrastructure. The seasonal variation described above and the sediment loss which has been identified over the years are expressed through seasonal change in coastline configuration. This is illustrated in Figure 3. DISCUSSION Figure 4. Bathymetry and beach profile locations. When it comes to protecting an eroding beach the available coastal engineering solutions include beach structures parallel to the shore, structures normal to the shore, stabilization works (such as sea walls) and beach nourishment (Anagnostou et al., 2002; Simm et al., 1996). Selecting the most suitable method depends on environmental, technical, economical, political, social and visual limitations. Any decision as to whether structures are needed and where should be seen as part of an integrated approach for beach management (Antoniou et al., 2009). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 64, 2011 1318 Erosion and coast protection methods From the analysis presented it is clearly established that there is a periodic movement of sediments around the tip which is attributed to seasonal wind variations. This is exemplified also by the many changes experienced by the coastline, as shown in Figure 3. Another important aspect that needs to be taken into consideration is the recreational (touristic) use of the beach. This is a rather limiting factor during the design of coastal measures. Combined with various environmental criteria, the attention is placed on maintaining the beach in its natural form. These pose limitations to construction of coastal works directly on the coast or parallel to it, as this would aesthetically deteriorate the site, with negative consequences on the marine environment as well. Construction of groynes or breakwaters would also entail placement of large amounts of blocks on the beach or within very few meters from the coastline, which is again not an effective solution given the recreational use of the site. What is more, construction of a groyne field to the west would require foundations being placed in very deep water, which is very expensive. A feasible and rather environmental friendly solution would be the artificial nourishment of the area. This method, if carefully designed, has smaller environmental impacts than engineering works discussed so far, it is less expensive, and, except during construction phase, there is no visual impact. However, for a sustainable design of this scheme, simulation of sediment patterns would be appropriate and is strongly recommended. Also, a monitoring scheme should support all stages of the nourishment project and advise accordingly. Monitoring of the first stage would determine the execution or not of successive stages ensuring viability of the method. Kombiadou, K.; Chatiris, G.A; Androulidakis, G.; Sioulas, A; Krestenitis, G.; Anagnostou, Ch. and Issaris, G., 2009. Investigation of erosion at the cape of Rhodos and defence measures. 9th Symposium on Oceanography & Fisheries, Vol. 1. In Greek. McKenna, J.; Cooper, J.A.G. and O’Hagan, A.M., 2008. Managing by principle: a critical assessment of the EU principles of ICZM. Marine Policy, 32, 941-955. Simm, J.D.; Brampton, A.H.; Beech, N.W. and Brooke, J.S., 1996. Beach management manual. London: Construction Industry Research and Information Association (CIRIA), Report 153, 448p. Soukissian, T.H.; Chronis, G.T. and Nittis, K., 2000. POSEIDON: Operational Marine Monitoring System for Greek Seas. Sea Technology, 40(7), 32-37. Xeidakis, G.S.; Delimani, P.K. and Skias, S.G., 2006. Sea Cliff Erosion in the Eastern Part of the North Aegean Coastline, Northern Greece. Journal of Environmental Science and Health, Part A, 41(9), 1989 – 2011. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT Special thanks are extended to the research team of the Laboratory of Maritime Engineering and Maritime Works, Department of Civil Engineering, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki and to Yannis Issaris for their enormous support during this study. The authors are also thankful for the help of the research staff at the Hydrobiological Station of Rhodos. CONCLUSION Several types of beach protection measures may be applied to prevent or battle erosion. The available coastal engineering solutions for restoring an eroding beach in Rhodos island (SE Aegean Sea, Greece) were critically assessed and compared. Given the specific geomorphological characteristics of the area, the local wind/wave climate patterns which generate a local seasonal climatic variation and various environmental, social and technical limitations, the optimal solution proposed is that of periodic beach nourishment at certain beach locations. However, this remains one yet human intervention and several environmental impacts should be anticipated. As such, it should be seen as part of an integrated coastal strategy involving a good understanding of beach and coastal dynamics of the wider coastal system (contrast to common localized approaches applied so far), which would assist in sustainable management of this valuable resource. LITERATURE CITED Anagnostou, Ch.; Drakopoulou, P. and Soukissian, T., 2002. The morphodynamics of the west coast of Messiniakos Gulf and the role of the Agios Andreas marina. Proceedings of the 2nd Pan-Hellenic Conference on Management and Development of Coastal Zones (Athens, Greece), pp. 249-252. In Greek. Antoniou, P.F.; Kyriakidou, H. and Anagnostou, Ch., 2009. Cement filled geo-textile groynes as a means of beach protection against erosion: a critique of applications in Greece. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 56, pp. 463366. Cooper, J.A.G. and McKenna, J., 2008. Working with natural processes: the challenge for Coastal Protection Strategies. Geographical Journal, 174, 315-331. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 64, 2011 1319
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