Healthy Meat and Natural Animals: Hygiene, Discipline and Veterinary Science in Bolivian Llama Herds. Maggie Bolton University of Manchester (DRAFT: Please do not quote) Introduction This paper is about llama meat in present-day Bolivia and about efforts aimed towards its commercialisation. Llamas are native Andean animals, believed to have been domesticated about six thousand years ago (Wheeler, Dransart), and are raised in the most inhospitable rural highland areas by members of Andean communities who until recently relied on them as general purpose animals for fleece, meat and the transport of goods. Unlike their close relatives, alpacas, they have never really attracted the attention of wealthy livestock entrepreneurs as their fibre was considered too coarse for commercialisation.1 Their place in Andean religion was recognised by the extirpators of idolatries of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries who forbade their slaughter by other means than slitting the throat in an effort to stamp out native religious practices (Guaman Poma de Ayala [1615] 1993: 725) and they continue to be of religious importance to Andean people, for whom they are the quintessential animal of sacrifice. For urban Bolivians, llamas are animals associated with the Indian sectors of the population. Racism towards Indians has led to llama meat being regarded as ‘cheap poor man’s food’, or ‘Indian food more suitable for dogs than humans’ (Healy 2001: 192), and until very recently this prejudice was reinforced by urban municipal governments which banned its sale altogether in urban markets. Recent initiatives resulting from government policy towards rural areas and the activities of externally-funded NGOs aim to promote llama-rearing as a profitable enterprise (Ministerio de Asuntos campesinos… 2003). Such initiatives are directed towards poverty alleviation in the highland regions, but also aim to transform herders 1 This is because llama fleece contains thick guard hairs which have to be removed painstakingly if a fine quality spun fibre is to result. However, there are different physical types of animal, and the woolly llamas that predominate in Sud Lípez, where the research for this paper was undertaken, are now held to have fleece of similar quality (mainly assessed through measurement of fibre diameter) to that of alpacas (Rodriquez 2004). 1 from subsistence pastoralists to self-supporting entrepreneurial citizens responsible for their own maintenance operating within a neoliberal framework. One way in which herding is to become profitable is through the commercialisation of llama meat, the healthy properties of which are promoted through publicity campaigns. However, for its successful commercialisation on the home market, urban concerns about the hygiene and safety of such meat have to be addressed and for entry into foreign markets (as anticipated by NGOs), international norms for hygiene and the control of animal disease must be met. A considerable amount of the educative effort from NGO technicians directed at llama herders concerns the promotion of regimes of hygiene and animal health-care in the countryside. In such regimes there coincide both a neoliberal concern to inculcate norms of comportment and self-discipline in citizens, and a concern more specific to the urban sectors of Andean countries for control over the rural Indian population. In this paper I explore how hygiene and veterinary science become sites of hegemonic struggle between rural herders and dominant sectors in Bolivia. Here, my understanding of Gramsci’s concept of hegemony is in line with those proposed by both Norman Fairclough (1992) and William Roseberry (1994).2 Neither has been content to view hegemony as simply a matter of ideological consent, and see it rather as a process characterised by struggle between dominant and subaltern groups. As Fairclough writes, “Hegemony is a focus of constant struggle around points of greatest instability between classes and blocs, to construct or sustain or fracture alliances and relations of domination/subordination, which takes economic, political and ideological forms” (Ibid 92). Neither dominant nor subordinate groups need be thought of as unified and hegemony is never achieved more than partially as an unstable equilibrium. What is at stake in the case of llama meat is not a simple struggle between global science and indigenous knowledge – herders welcome some aspects of science, and NGO veterinarians and agronomists would like to explore further some aspects of indigenous knowledge – but a struggle for a common discursive and material framework for talking about and managing animals. For the Andean people whose close links with their 2 Although Fairclough (1992) writes about hegemony primarily with a view to understanding the relation between discourse and social change in Britain, and Roseberry (1994) is concerned with understanding state formation in Mexico, their understandings of Gramsci coincide in all important respects. 2 animals are at stake, this becomes also a struggle over a way of life and over relations with powerful entities. Veterinary medicine becomes a cornerstone of this struggle when herders express scepticism of the benefits of animal vaccination or accuse veterinary medicines of harming their animals. From the perspective of many herders, veterinary medicines are simply inappropriate for llamas owing to the ontological status of the animals themselves. Discourses about them also appear to articulate concerns about the changing relations between herders and animals that commercialisation demands In Tim Ingold’s terminology, it implies making herders into ranchers, encouraging them to move from a subsistence economy in which protection is extended to herd animals to a predatory relation with the animals and an economy of monetary accumulation (Ingold 1980: 4). Andean pastoralists appear to have reservations about making such a move. I argue that lipeño discourses about the dangers and harm that can come from veterinary medicine articulate the same sorts of anxieties about modernity, changing relations of production and failure to observe collective norms that anthropologists working elsewhere in the Andes attribute to stories of lik’ichiris or kharisiris.3 Lik’ichiris are men, usually white or mestizo,4 who exist in a predatory relationship with other human beings in that they rob and sell fat from the bodies of Indians. Whereas in the past the stolen fat was held to be used by Spanish colonisers to treat wounds or to grease the moulds of church bellfounders (Rivière 1991: 27), nowadays it is held to have a variety of uses, from oiling the industrial machinery of capitalism to the US space programme. Tellingly, one such use is the manufacture of medical pharmaceuticals (Salazár 1991, Gose 1986). I explore the topic from a variety of perspectives. My first focus is ethnographic, concerning the non-commercial slaughter of animals in the countryside and relations between herders and their animals. Following on from this, I focus on the urban classes of Bolivia and their concerns about the hygiene of llama meat, Indians and Andean culture. Hygiene also features in a political discussion of neoliberalism, governmentality and NGOs but here takes on a Foucaultian aspect, as a technique of the self. In the latter 3 Also known in Peru as ñakaq or pishtaco. See Gose (1986), Canessa (2000), Salazár (1991), Riviére (1991), Weismantel (2001). For the sake of simplicity, throughout this paper I shall use the term lik’ichiri, since this is most common in the south of Bolivia. 4 The term mestizo combines the idea of racial mixture with that of assimilation to the dominant national culture. 3 part of the paper I return to the ethnography in discussing herder reactions to veterinary interventions and explore the connection with stories of lik’ichiris. While using a multiperspectival approach may sacrifice theoretical uniformity in this paper, but it aids the illustration of what is at stake in a hegemonic struggle over animals and their relations with humans and for a common discursive and material framework through which to talk about them and live through. More generally, it is also a struggle over the way of life of an Andean people in which science plays a pivotal role. Making meat from clean llamas As a postgraduate student and near vegetarian, I made the mistake of selecting a fieldwork site in a community of llama herding pastoralists. Andean pastoralism has been characterized as oriented towards the production of fibre rather than either milk or meat and the transformation of the animals’ fleece into yarn and fabric has received far greater attention from anthropologists of the Andean region than has the transformation of animal flesh into meat (e.g. Dransart 2002, 11-12, 101-126). However, I soon learned that that meat eaten in small quantities was an expected and essential part of main meals and meat was eaten in large quantities on all festive occasions. The meat was usually llama, sometimes sheep or goat, and occasionally (and clandestinely) donkey. People in Sud Lípez consider llamas to be more ‘original’ or ‘natural’ to the area than their human owners. In a long-ago mythical past when humans and animals were closer, and when animals could talk, llamas are held to have spoken Aymara, like the lipeño people encountered by early colonial Spaniards, and unlike present-day lipeños who are Quechua-Spanish bilinguals.5 Regarding the animals’ origins, one man told me they had emerged from a place near San Antonio de Lípez, called Llamayoqpata (literally, on top of the llama owner) where there was a samiri6 – a generative power – producing the animals. Many people, however, claimed not to know where they came from and stated that they have always been there. Sheep, European imports in colonial times, are held to 5 See Capoche (1959: 129), Lozano Machuca Lipeño (1992: 31). The Quechua language became established in Lípez during the seventeenth century, probably due to the influx of indians from other areas to work the mines of San Antonio del Nuevo Mundo. In late colonial times, its people were classified as agregados (incomers) rather than originarios (natives) as they were considered by colonial officials to be the descendants of mine workers of previous centuries (Bolton, forthcoming). 6 Samiri – from sama (Aymara, ‘breath’) + -iri (Aymara, ‘one who [gives]’) (Abercrombie 1998: 357). Abercrombie notes that one type of samiri is a large boulder, vaguely animallike in shape (Ibid.). 4 have formerly spoken Spanish, but paradoxically are credited with a local place of origin or paqarina: a lake called Rinconada which now lies across the Argentine border. Slaughtering a llama is an occasion that is intimate to a family but also social. It involves not only the family that owns the animal, but also usually more distant kin and neighbours who help with the work of slaughter and butchering in return for a meal and the portion of the meat they earn through their labour (achura).7 A man from a neighbouring family is frequently called upon to slaughter the animal, while his wife and children assist with the butchering and the preparation of the meal.8 A llama to be slaughtered – usually an aging animal or a castrated male – is separated from the family herd inside or close to the family corral, and is forced to the ground. Someone holds the animal down, while a man slits its throat with a sharpened kitchen knife.9 The blood is collected in a basin and, once the death throes cease, the butchering commences. The man with the knife makes a slit in the skin under the ribs and peels it back out of the way. He opens up the abdominal cavity, taking care not to puncture the gut, and cutting away the last rib (which will form part of his achura) he starts to remove the viscera. Sometimes abnormalities are noticed – unusual pieces of fat attached to the gut (called warakas or slings) are regarded as ill omens and discoloration suggests that the llama is already in mourning (de luto) for a person who is going to die. Someone usually comments on whether the llama is fat, thin or regular. Throughout my recent fieldwork, animals were almost invariably said to be thin as an effect of an unusually heavy snowfall in 2002 from which pastures were still recovering. 7 Achura was also the name given to a portion of mineral ore to which indian workers in the seventeenth century in the nearby mines of San Antonio del Nuevo Mundo regarded themselves as entitled and without which they would not work. Contemporary use of the term is for the share a helper earns from a host of a product to which he or she has contributed through labour. The early Quechua lexicon produced by Domingo de Santo Tomás (1951:230) defines achura as a ‘piece of meat’, while González Holguín’s dictionary (1989:14) gives as one of its definitions ‘the portions or parts from a division or distribution’ (Bolton 2002). 8 The tasks of slaughtering are gendered, although this does not mean, for example, that women never kill the animals or that men never make morcilla (black pudding). However, one of my compadres found it amusing that his unmarried sisters-in-law sometimes killed their own animals, and don Mauricio, Rosario’s only divorcé, was described as being ‘like a woman’ because he made his own morcilla and chicha. 9 Flannery et. al. (1989: 83) describe another method of slaughter in Peru, with the knife blade applied to the back of the neck which the authors consider a more Andean method. Guaman Poma illustrates a llama slaughter by the extraction of the still-beating heart from the animal and states that this method was forbidden by colonial priests (Guaman Poma de Ayala [1615] 1993: 725). Certain occasions for sacrifice in the contemporary Andes involve the removal of the animal’s heart while it still beats – but after the throat has been cut. 5 Lengths of intestines are removed and handed to women and children who carefully carry them away to empty their contents without tearing and put them to one side, either on the inside of the skin or in a basin ready for use. It sometimes takes two men to remove the distended stomach without spilling its contents and to carry it to a nearby pit for emptying. As the abdomen and thorax are opened up, the remaining organs are removed and hung outside the house, out of the reach of the family dogs, and a piece of fleece is used to mop up any blood spilled in the body cavity. One or two people with knives and fists then work to skin the body and legs. Large joints of meat are formed from the four legs, back and neck. The feet are left with the skin attached as is the head, although the facial meat will find its way into the pot in the days that follow. Throughout the butchering operation the hide and fleece are used skilfully to prevent the meat from coming into contact with the earth and becoming soiled. When the meat and organs have all been removed, the skin and fleece are finally folded in half and set to one side – an empty llama lying on the ground. Once the butchering is complete, it is time to eat and for the workers to be rewarded. A pot with mote (maize) will have been set to boil, usually on a fire outside the house. The woman of the household will have started work as soon as the animal’s throat is cut, stirring the blood in its basin to prevent clotting, and once lengths of intestine are available she starts to make black pudding (morcilla) which boils away while the butchering continues. Other parts of the intestines are fried, sometimes with onions and part of the liver (although some of this is needed for achura). When the butchering is finished, all partake of the meal that has been prepared to use up those parts of the llama that will not keep. Sometimes, if a truck is going to Tupiza, several animals will have been killed and the meat is loaded into sacks for transport to town. Live animals should not enter into transactions as this is to effect a separation from the herd, and undermines the reproductive force of the group (Bolton, under review). Slaughtering, however, taking place close to the family corral, does not involve a conceptual separation from the herd and maintains the unity of the reproductive group while allowing the animal to be transformed and its products to enter into commercial exchange. The idea of sacrifice is always present – although the family members look forward to eating the meat, they lose 6 an animal that is almost a family member.10 Although llamas are held to have come from the ancestors (almas), they are also of the living earth, and following a slaughter the sac surrounding the heart is often retained and used as a receptacle for pieces of the animal’s ears, toe clippings, heart and liver, which are interred in a hole in the ground. As Gose (1986: 309) has argued, rather than being explicable in terms of exchange, the sacrificial tribute demanded by Andean powers of the landscape involves the breakdown, transformation and assimilation of organic matter, in this case of the living animal. If the meat is not to go to the city, some may be sold locally, some will made into ch’arki 11and some used for the daily consumption of the family in the following weeks. It is worth noting here that lipeños regard llamas as intrinsically clean animals that do not smell when butchered and are particular about what they eat and drink and where they place their droppings. They are cleaner than sheep, which will eat anything and smell when butchered, and far cleaner than donkeys, whose flesh is held to stink. Lipeños claim they do not eat donkey, but they are happy to supply Chileans with donkey ch’arki (known in Chile as ch’arki de pardillo) in a clandestine cross-border trade. My landlady’s daughter, doña Eustaquia, told me that donkeys should not be eaten as they have teeth like people – they have upper and lower dentition, while llamas and sheep have a hard palate in place of an upper row of teeth – and another woman declared (bringing Mary Douglas’s (1966) work to mind) that the Bible forbade their consumption because of their teeth. In practice, lipeños, especially the less well-off, do eat donkey since an old animal is cheap to buy and yields enough meat to feed a family for quite some time. It is generally held that people will not eat donkey willingly – the idea disgusts them or makes them feel sick (“Me da asco”, commented my compadre, don Carlos) – and that some unscrupulous people will deceive their guests serving donkey meat.12 Don Carlos assured me that with all the time I had spent in Lípez, I was bound to have eaten donkey on more than one occasion. 10 Dransart has noted that, although animals and humans are regarded as distinct, llamas like humans have genealogies which are regarded as parallel to and mutually interdependent with those of their owners (Dransart 2002: 10). 11 Ch’arki or charque in its Hispanicised spelling is meat that has been cut into thin slices before being salted and dried. 12 I have heard that donkey was served as a communal meal on one occasion, when the sindicato (peasants’ union) held a meeting in Rosario during the incumbency of a mayor who was particularly hostile to that organisation. 7 Dirty llama meat in the city In a recent article on the interplay of biomedicine, hygiene and ethnicity in early twentieth-century Bolivia, Ann Zulawski comments, drawing on Mary Douglas (1966) among others, that concerns about contamination and disease can be metaphors for fear of loss of control over society’s lower orders and hygienic controls a means of maintaining the social hierarchy (Zulawski 2000: 116). That food should become the object of hygienic regulations is unsurprising. Famously, a large part of Douglas’s work concerns the biblical food prohibitions set out in the Book of Leviticus. Here certain animals are prohibited as food, being as Douglas comments animals that fit uneasily into schemes of classification and are dangerously transgressive of boundaries (ref.). Only those considered ‘clean’ are suitable to transgress that most radical boundary between the inside and the outside of the human body. In similar vein, Julia Kristeva writes of the abject, that which inspires such horror in us as to induce physical reactions like dizziness and nausea, as something that shows us we are at the border of our condition as living beings. ‘Death infecting life’, as Kristeva puts it (Kristeva: 3-4). It is hardly a coincidence that the regulations set out in Leviticus overwhelmingly concern conditions for the eating of the flesh of dead animals. Returning to the Andes, Marisol de la Cadena (2000:71) describes how women meat vendors became the target of early twentieth-century attempts to clean up Cuzco’s market place through the imposition and surveillance of hygienic controls. Such meat vendors not only dealt in the flesh of dead animals but also transgressed another boundary: between city market where meat is sold and the countryside where animals are raised, which in the Andes is also a racial boundary between the white and mestizo urban population and rural Indians.13 Meat vendors were either troublingly interstitial persons or Indians trespassing beyond their ‘racial proper place’ (de la Cadena 2000: 68-72, Weismantel 2002: 40). Control over the hygienic habits of meat vendors thus expressed concern over loss of control over lower sectors of society and a means for reinforcing such control. 13 The term mestizo combines the idea of racial mixture with that of assimilation to the dominant national culture. 8 Zulawski’s work on medicine and hygiene in Bolivia of the same period as that discussed by de la Cadena draws out the particularities of the Bolivian situation. She shows how the urban population of cities such as La Paz and Sucre associated the Indian population primarily with a lack of hygiene and propensity to disease which at times threatened also to engulf the cities. She also notes how physicians of the period laid the blame for this perceived lack of hygiene squarely on rural Andean culture. Some doctors took an overtly racist stance in which the Indian was cast as a person who displayed a ‘horror of any hygienic measures that oblige him to change his habitual mode of existence’14 and for whom strategies to combat disease should be devised accordingly. Others, of different political persuasion, considered Indianness, or Andean culture, something that would be best eliminated through the proletarianisation of the Indian population. Llama meat seems symbolic of all that for the urban population seemed unhygienic about Andean culture. Whereas for rural herders llamas are the cleanest of animals, in cities their meat has long attracted attention for being just the opposite. Meat sold in Bolivian cities has a hierarchy. Central markets have stalls selling beef, pork or chicken. Anyone wanting to buy lamb or mutton, at least in Potosí and Sucre, must walk to more out-of-the-way spots (the streets outside the Mercado Vicuñas in Potosí or the Mercado Campesino in Sucre) to find vendors. Until very recently the sale of llama meat was effectively prohibited by municipal authorities in just about all urban markets and, as Healy (2004: 31) notes, most meat that found its way into cities was marketed clandestinely, disguised in sausages and hot-dogs. During the Third Worldwide Camelid Congress, held in Potosí in November 2003, the mayor of the city, a man of rural origins, commented in the local newspaper, El Potosí, that during his childhood, ‘It was little short of a crime to sell llama meat in the city, we had to do it clandestinely because if we were caught it would be confiscated’.15 One of the leaders of the llama producers’ organisation in Sud Lípez further commented to me that the meat confiscated would be burned. 14 15 Nestor Morales 1913. Revista de Bacteriología e Higiene, 18, 706, Quoted in Zulawski (2000:119) El Potosí, 20/11/2003: ‘La carne de llama era despreciada’. 9 Urban concern about the safety of llama meat was twofold: that the meat was produced in unhygienic conditions, and that it carried disease. City dwellers’ sensibilities were offended by the idea of animals slaughtered in ‘corrals full of dung’ (Healy 2001:213) and the presence of small, white cysts in some meat gave rise to the erroneous belief that llama meat was infected with trichina (trichinella spiralis) the nematode parasite found in pork responsible for the disease trichinosis. The cysts are known in Lípez as arrosillo16 and often present in the meat of older llamas and are of a parasitic species sarcocystis aucheniae which is harmless to humans and seems to have no adverse effect on llamas. As Healy (2004: 31) notes, fear of contagion from llama meat, the exemplary indian food, was an outward expression of racism on the part of the urban population towards indigenous herders and the presence of cysts enabled this fear to be rationalised. In the late 1990s, as Healy (2004: 32) notes, persistent campaigning from llama producers in Oruro department led to the repeal of legislation discriminating against llama meat. Now herders are able to sell their meat legally in cities and llama is on the menu of expensive city restaurants frequented by foreign tourists (not all of whom are vegetarian). Llama meat has made many converts, but an aura of ‘dirt’ and ‘indianness’ still attaches to it – as was apparent on the face of a (working class) chuquisaqueña friend when I presented her with a pound of ch’arki (dried meat) from Lípez as I was about to leave for the UK. In my final days of fieldwork, a friend had given me the meat in repayment of a loan, which I could hardly refuse, but which HM customs would not allow me to import into Britain. It seems that the acceptability of llama meat to urban Bolivian consumers depends on its separation from its Indian origins. It is not only that urban consumers have a sarcophagan logic, wishing to consume an abstract substance that cannot readily be traced back to the animal, while Andean peasants want to acknowledge the animal in what they eat (Vialles 1994: 127-8). It might be closer to say that for Andean peasants, life requires sacrificial tribute to the powerful deities of the animated landscape and this is accomplished through the death of llamas. For city dwellers, the death of an animal infecting life is abject unless is known to have taken place in clean, impersonal, 16 Arrocillo – from Spanish arroz (rice). 10 technified surroundings. An altered perception of llama meat is being accomplished in part by skilful packaging and labelling which stresses the healthy properties of the product. For instance, it is now possible to buy llama ch’arki (dried meat) in cellophane packages. I bought one such package at a promotional fair in San Agustín that bore a label stating ‘The ingredients and components utilised are authorised according to international requirements for export and production under strict conditions of control and health’. Beneath is given compositional table with percentage content of protein, fats, moisture and ash,17 and below in larger letters the words sin colesterol (‘without cholesterol’). Such packaging not only separates llama meat from any suggestion of contemporary Indians, but also suggests a certain ‘technification’ of the product with control over its hygienic production and scientific analysis of its composition. Such claims are not made without attempts to introduce such controls into the production of meat in the countryside, and the introduction of such controls is where the aims of urban concerns about control over the Indian population coincide with a neoliberal requirement of producing entrepreneurial citizens. Neoliberalism, discipline and governmentality The early 1990s witnessed a series of important legislative changes in Bolivia. On the one hand, the state constitution was rewritten in response to ILO convention 169 on the rights of indigenous people to recognise Bolivia as ‘multi-ethnic’ and ‘pluri-cultural’, and the law of Popular Participation devolved power to local municipalities. On the other hand, educational reform aimed to improve standards in schools, but was lambasted by critics as a de facto privatisation of state schools (Gill 2000: 15) and the privatisation (or ‘capitalisation’ as it became known) of state-owned enterprises and resources has led to protest and unrest ever since (Arze and Kruse 2004, Hylton and Thomson 2004). Such reform followed up and reinforced the pattern of neoliberal structural adjustment measures introduced by President Victor Paz Estenssoro in the 1980s, aimed at reducing Bolivia’s national debt in line with IMF demands. As Gill (2000) notes these measures had grave consequences for Bolivia’s less-well-off. The experience of rural 17 Although excluding salt, even though this was one of the listed ingredients. 11 people resulting from the legislative changes of the 1990s has been mixed. On the one hand the constitution recognises indigenous forms of social organisation and changes to the agrarian reform law have given such groups the right to make territorial claims as collectivities. On the other, there is increasing pressure on individuals to become selfsupporting entrepreneurs operating through national and even global markets. That camelid herding features in neoliberal policies is stated in a policy document produced in March 2003 by the Ministry of Rural and Indigenous Affairs and Agriculture.18 The document acknowledges the poverty of the most remote regions of the altiplano, but locates the areas in post 1980s Bolivia where capital and ‘the market’ have been given free rein and the social role of the state minimized.19 It identifies camelid production as an area where development should be fostered and from which ‘ecological and exotic’ products could find entry points into national and international markets at the price of only low governmental investment. It also acknowledges the role of existing programmes (set in place by NGOs) in encouraging the commercialization of camelid produce through stimulation of exports and competition. At the level of departmental government, an Office of Productive Development was established in Potosí around the same time to prioritize projects in the countryside with a potential for income generation rather than those aimed simply at infrastructural improvement. One of the areas on which its attention focused was camelid herding in the southwest of the department. It could be argued that entrepreneurship is nothing new to Andean rural people – herders in Sud Lípez have in the past used their animals for the transport of mineral ore from the mines, have traded clandestinely in wool across the Argentine border, continue to trade clandestinely in donkey meat with Chile and have maintained relations of nonmonetary exchange with agriculturalists at lower altitude in Tarija. However, in so doing, they remained unaccountable and unknowable to the state. Adapting their activities to a neoliberal framework brings new constraints. In spite of the noted ‘retreat of the state’, as Daniel Goldstein (2004) has commented in his study of a Cochabamba suburb, neoliberal reforms coupled with a rhetoric of widening democratic participation have intensified rather than lessened state endeavours 18 Ministerio de Asuntos Campesinos, Indígenas y Agropecuarios, Políticas de Desarrollo en Camélidos, March 2003. 19 Ibid: 56. 12 to count, measure and generally ‘know’ the national population. Rendering the population of the highland region ‘knowable’ (or ‘accountable’) recalls Timothy Mitchell’s argument that an economy is made or fashioned as an artefact – that abstract mapping, calculating and measuring procedures help bring about a reconfiguration of the material entities that are mapped or measured (businesses, land-holdings, and so on) (Mitchell: 2002:82). They not only reflect a reality, but also produce one. In the case of llama herders, such procedures that render citizens accountable relate in turn to an attempt to produce or reconfigure the remotest part of Bolivia’s highland region as part of the Bolivian national economy – that will ultimately contribute to the national treasury – and in the process reconfigure indigenous llama owners as individual entrepreneurs. Commentators such as Burchell (1996), Rose (1996) and Gupta and Ferguson (1997, 2002) have analysed neoliberal government using Foucault’s concepts of governmentality, discipline and ‘techniques of the self’. Burchell, for example, suggests that neoliberal governments strive to create the legal, institutional and cultural conditions under which individuals will adopt norms of comportment and self-discipline that are in line with an entrepreneurial ethos (1996: 27). In adopting such norms, they thereby reduce state responsibility for their management (Goldstein 2004). Gupta and Ferguson (2002) extend the analysis beyond individual nation-states to take into account complex relations of state governments, NGOs with international finance, international regulation, and so on, which they regard as manifestations of an emerging system of transnational governmentality. Making llama meat healthy under neoliberalism The commercialisation of camelid produce in global markets is a goal of both government and NGOs working in the sector (Fairfield 2004, Ministerio de Asuntos Campesinos… 2003). Healy (2001: 211) reports that early efforts at meat commercialisation in Bolivia were a response to the numbers of llamas smuggled for slaughter across the international border with Chile, and an NGO official interviewed by Fairfield (2004: 6) further claimed that niche markets for meat products were being sought both in Europe and Japan. Norms of comportment and self-discipline that herders are expected to adopt include regimes for the hygienic slaughter of animals and the 13 systematic use of veterinary medicines to control animal parasites. A large proportion of the work of NGOs involved in camelid projects is directed towards the education of the rural population in these areas as well as towards livestock improvement through genetic management. In order to break into national markets meat has to overcome both the sort of urban prejudice discussed above and national regulations. Trading in meat products abroad also involves compliance with international regulations.20 While few would argue against the principle of making food safe for consumers, in highland Bolivia education aimed at improving the hygiene of meat production encourages campesinos to replace the sort of intimate and social sacrifice of animals described earlier in this paper with controlled, commercial slaughter in purpose-built installations or platforms. Healy (2001: 211-216) describes the construction in the early 1990s of just such a purpose-built abattoir for camelids in Turco, a town in Oruro department, where slaughter is performed impersonally and carcasses are handled by workers wearing long, hooded coats and gloves. So far, there are no plans to construct such an installation in Lípez, as the NGO working in the region prioritises the commercialisation of fibre from the woolly llamas that predominate there over meat production. A greenhouse for the hygienic production of charki, where meat could be dried away from the dust-laden wind, has, however, been constructed in Quetena in the west of the province with finance from the Eduardo Avaroa National Park. Educational and infrastructural efforts aimed at improving animal health and hygiene concentrate on the elimination of parasites through promoting regular vaccination and other practices. An NGO with finance from the European Union, PROQUIPO, oversaw the construction of antiparasitic baths in Lípez communities in the late 1990s to combat the problem of mange. More recently the elimination of the cysts in llama meat that have fuelled urban prejudice against the meat has become a priority of educational campaigns. The parasite responsible for the cysts, sarcocystis aucheniae has a complicated two-stage life cycle involving a phase of asexual reproduction in camelids (secondary hosts), and a 20 International regulations on food hygiene are collated under the International Portal on Food Safety , Animal and Plant Health, by the Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations, http://www.ipfsaph.org/servlet/CDSServlet?status=ND1jdGh0dHB3d3dmYW9vcmdhb3NoczAyJjY9ZW4 mMzM9KiYzNz1rb3M~, consulted 21/06/05. International regulations applying specifically to animals are stipulated in the Terrestial Animal Health Code issued by the Office International de Epizooties, OIE (World Organisation for Animal Health) (2004). 14 phase of sexual reproduction in canine (or possibly human) primary hosts. Dogs egest new cysts in their faeces and these are ingested by llamas as they graze. Educative campaigns aimed at eliminating sarcocistiosis focus on the control of dogs and suggest that they should be eliminated (i.e. killed) or kept under control and not allowed access to llama meat or blood. There was also some talk of introducing worming medicines for dogs. The need to eliminate sarcocistiosis was brought up at a couple of workshops I attended in Sud Lípez, but was not the focus of these events. It was, however, the subject of a poster campaign on prominent display at camelid shows throughout Potosí department. Since only a small number of herders attend these events, the posters appeared targeted at potential meat consumers whom they wished to assure of the cleanliness of the products for sale. The World Organisation for Animal Health (OIE) guidelines21 stipulate that meat and meat products traded internationally should be from a zone or country with foot-andmouth free certification,22 and that animals should be slaughtered in approved abattoirs and carcasses inspected for signs of the disease. Bolivia has long sought foot-and-mouth free status for its eastern cattle-producing area, and recently the government animal health agency SENASAG (Servicio Nacional de Sanidad Agropecuaria) has turned its attention to the altiplano in a bid to obtain foot-and-mouth free certification for the region. Although there have been no recorded outbreaks of FMD in South American Camelids under normal herding conditions (Fairfield 2004: 8), the present drive to seek FMD-free status is in line with the aim of finding international markets for camelid products. Steps in this direction were already underway during my fieldwork. The benefit of such certification to a zone such as Sud Lípez where there are currently no plans to build an approved abattoir is questionable. However, by the time of completion of my fieldwork, the organisation’s activities have involved livestock census and sample taking for serological analysis. Herders are reluctant to supply census takers with the data they request. In part this is due to Andean culture-specific ideas about what should and should not be counted (Urton 1997). Lipeño herders also state that they fear they 21 OIE 2004. Terrestial Animal Health Code, Chapter 2.2.10 Foot and Mouth Disease, available at http://www.oie.int/eng/normes/mcode/en_chapitre_2.2.20.htm. 22 Two types of certification are available according to whether or not systematic animal vaccination is used (OIE 2004). 15 will be taxed on the numbers of animals they admit to owning at some future date, and so underestimate their herd sizes. Here it could be that a memory of the past, when the forebears of present-day lipeño herders were charged tithes on their animals, coincides with the herders’ astute understanding of the mechanics of neoliberal governmentality leaving them unwilling to cooperate over animal census (Bolton 2005). Reluctance to furnish animal-census data is also noted by Fairfield (2004). Although not a measure aimed primarily at hygiene in meat production, it is worth mentioning at this point that animal vaccination formed part of a package of aid supplied to the communities of the south of Potosí department following an unusual and disastrously heavy snowfall in 2002. A considerable number of animals died as a direct result of the weather conditions, and yet more perished in the following months due to scarcity of pasture. Veterinarians financed by the international aid organisation CARE travelled to the province shortly after the event to inject llamas with a fortifying tonic and with a general antiparasitic vaccine.23 As well as saving the lives of animals weakened by hunger, the vaccination drive was to encourage the systematic use of vaccines by herders. As I explain in the following section, although herders initially welcomed the attention and aid, the attempt backfired when many herders dissatisfied with the results turned against the use of vaccines. “Vaccines have ruined our llamas” The reception of veterinary interventions and campaigns aimed at eliminating parasites from herd animals has been very mixed in Sud Lípez. That opinion about the interventions is not uniform or unanimous is no doubt an indication of the sorts of dilemma that herders are facing – an awareness that commercialisation seeks irrevocably to alter their relations with herd animals, but that in a changed world where motor transport is becoming ever more widespread the economic trading activities of their grandparents are no longer viable. Hardly anyone to whom I spoke expressed had any doubts that veterinary intervention to prevent mange (known locally as sarna), caused by the scabies mite, was 23 The vaccine that most widely used in Lípez was Ivomec™ a vaccine developed by the company Merial Ltd., primarily for cattle and sheep in the US and Britain and which is effective against a wide range of internal and external parasites. 16 a good thing and all recognised the condition as a problem since it can lead to the death of an animal. Most also held that the condition is now more prevalent than was formerly the case. When in 2004 the municipality decided to make some funds available for the insecticides required to dip animals, the meeting broke up acrimoniously not because of opposition to their use, but through arguments over their distribution.24 One elderly woman informant told me that sarna was a punishment from the almas (souls, ancestors) from whom the animals come and who continue to watch over them. She held that the only way to treat the condition was to kill the animal and to place its bones in the river. However, most people blamed vicuñas for its spread. Vicuñas, wild relatives of domestic llamas and alpacas, are a protected species, and in spite of the actions of poachers (and a certain Catholic priest)25 they have multiplied dramatically in recent years – during my fieldwork period a group of about 50 or 60 young males could be seen grazing downstream from Rosario on most mornings. Herders worry that they will pass mange to domestic animals and also that they will overgraze pastures.26 The same cannot be said for the educative attempts aimed at the elimination of sarcocistiosis. Hardly anyone regards the infamous white cysts as a problem or worries about them. It was usual to hear people dismiss the presence of cysts in llama meat as normal. Lipeños would point out that they were often present in the meat of older animals and that no one eating the meat suffered any ill effects. For instance, my compadre, don Carlos, when asked if eating infected meat had any ill effect replied in the negative, alluding to a meal we had eaten at his estancia27 a few days previously: “No, no... How is it that we have lived here for hundreds, thousands of years? How come we don’t die? Of course I’ve eaten this, all the time! Even the other day, we ate this meat together! Damn it! Nothing happens! Nothing happens!” [Carlos, Rosario] 24 The municipality had thought to distribute the chemicals on a per animal basis, but members of the community with few animals felt this to be unfair since it amounted to giving more support to those who were already rich (i.e. had a large number of animals) and that it should be divided equally between comunarios irrespective of the number of animals owned. 25 From the mid-1980s until early 2004, the parish priest for Rosario was an eccentric Pole based in Tupiza who was notorious throughout the province for his enthusiasm for hunting and for firearms in general. Most local people were convinced he was either mad or an employee of the CIA. 26 The sustainable management of vicuñas and the commercialisation of vicuña fibre is a further economic strategy being promoted by government agencies and NGOs. Following a pilot scheme organised by the NGO, PROQUIPO, in the 1990s Rosario has established an organization with this aim, but organising a round-up of the animals is difficult and many people would like to see them culled periodically. 27 Lipeños use the term estancia or campo wasi for their house that is near the grazing grounds of their herd animals, as opposed to their town house in a village centre where they live during the school term. 17 Another friend concurred: “I don’t believe anything happens. I can tell you, one of my grandfathers, I can tell you... For example, my own grandfather seemed to prefer that [false] trichina to the meat....” [Vicente, Rosario] I never noticed anyone taking precautions to keep dogs away from left-over llama blood after a slaughter, as they were encouraged to do in the health campaigns. Most herders liked to keep at least one dog at their homesteads with the herd – to scare away Andean foxes intent on making a meal of newborn llama. A large dog with a powerful bark was particularly desirable and a bowl of llama blood was a good way to feed it. One way in which both parasites carried in the intestinal tract (such as sarcocystis aucheniae as well as other roundworms and tapeworms) and skin-borne parasites (such as the scabies mite) can be controlled is by means of a general livestock antiparasitic vaccine, such as Ivomec. 28 This was the solution recommended for people who did not have ready access to antiparasitic baths (when the dip is too far from the herd’s grazing ground). It is given by injection. It was also a measure that met with considerable suspicion from herders. As mentioned in the previous section, just such an injectable vaccine, along with a tonic, was given to animals following the snowfall of 2002 as part of a package of disaster-aid. Herders associate the problems they attribute to the vaccines primarily to this occasion, which for many people was the first time they had vaccinated their animals. When speaking of their experiences following these injections, they did not distinguish between the two types of medication given. The first problem with the injections seemed to be simply that they did not prevent the animals from dying. Some people considered the injections to be ‘vaccination against thinness’,29 no doubt a distillation of the explanation they had been given by the NGO technicians. When the animals continued to die from malnutrition, they suggested that the medication must have been ‘too simple’. Even the facilitator for the NGO working with the local camelid producers’ organisation,30 a local man who had received a year’s 28 Ivomec – a registered trademark., a supplier of vaccines for cattle, sheep and pigs in both the US and the UK. 29 My compadre, don Carlos described the vaccinations given following the snowfall as vacunas…contra la flacura ‘Vaccinations against thinness’ and as sueros, así inyectables, eso es para la flacura ‘Serums, injectables. They’re for thinness’. 30 ACRA, Associazione di Cooperazione Rurale in Africa e America Latina, an NGO with Italian finance and headquarters in Milan. 18 training as a veterinary technician at the University of Puno, noted their lack of effect and, in conversation with me, suggested that they might have been watered down (adulterados). Don Carlos commented that it was possible to buy better medicines in shops in Potosí. It is worth noting here that ‘thinness’ signifies a lack of fat – as noted in the first section of this paper, onlookers at a llama slaughter comment on the fatness or thinness of the animal and base their assessment on the quantity of fat present in the carcass. Bastien (1987: 46) understands air, blood and fat as vital humours for Andeans, while Canessa (2000: 709) comments that in the Andes fat, rather than blood, is considered to give animation to humans and animals. Tellingly, the vaccinations failed to restore this vital substance to the llamas. A very distressing observation for the herders was that not only had adult animals died as a result of starvation shortly after the snow, but many young had been lost either stillborn or had died shortly after birth the following December: Carlos: The crías [young llamas] now have died as well. Earlier, in Octobre the adults were dying… now the young… because they have no milk, there’s no milk… their mothers have no milk, so their young are dying of hunger… Maggie: Is that because there’s no water? Carlos: I think… it could be that. That is er… they are not really thin. We’re fucked! We’re half fucked! I don’t know about the llama, I don’t know… maybe we should apply a different medicine, you know, medicines that work in relation to… Nothing good has resulted from them. I think they’re too simple. [Carlos, Rosario] Other people went further and criticised the medicines for not only for inducing stillbirths, but also birth deformities. A conversation with my friend Tomasa, a woman in her thirties from a herding family, but also a municipal councillor, was typical of exchanges about the effects of the medicines. Tomasa was at pains to stress that she was a modern person who would like to use veterinary medicines, but explained how her father had no confidence in them: Tomasa: We got them to give the llamas vaccines, didn’t we? But last year, after we had injected them, the llamas were born differently. Maggie: How were they born? Tomasa: They had faces almost like people. They were born without a jawbone… For example, in our case… Maggie: Without a jaw? Tomasa: Yes, without a jawbone. That’s how they were born, and our parents think that the vaccine has affected them, don’t they? So, that’s almost all of our fathers who don’t want to vaccinate. Of course, we [the younger generation] could vaccinate them, but they [our fathers] are more the owners of the llamas, aren’t they. He who cares more is the owner… so, that’s what happened last year. In our llamas it happened too… We’ve seen it. Maggie: Did you? What were the young like? 19 Tomasa: Without a jaw, they didn’t have… How can I say? They couldn’t walk, nothing, it’s like their hands were tied, and they couldn’t move… [Tomasa, Rosario] The same sort of experience prompted don Mauricio, an experienced herder in his 60s to an outburst in a meeting with technicians from an NGO (not primarily involved in livestock management). I applied these medicines and they have turned out something bad. The young emerge sort of twisted, you could say, so that some cannot walk, or the animal has no milk. All these situations happen…. [Mauricio, Rosario] It became common to hear herders comment that the injections ‘have ruined the llamas’. Still-births and birth deformities are problems that NGO personnel attribute to inbreeding, for which they criticise the animal management of indigenous herders (Bolton 2005). Counter-narratives such as these from herders put the blame for these phenomena squarely back with the NGOs and their interventions and date the advent of the problems firmly to the snowfall. While unable to offer any sort of assessment of these claims from the point of view of veterinary medicine, casting one’s mind back to the thalidomide crisis in Britain in the early 1960s provides ample evidence that medicines given to humans during pregnancy have induced birth deformities and suggests they should not be dismissed out of hand. Further objections against the use of vaccines in llamas seemed more to do with the nature of the animals and with their status as ‘natural’ animals. Here herders seem to conflate an idea of ‘natural’, as understood by proponents of ‘organic’ foods, with an older, colonial usage, where naturales or originarios were the natives of a province and postulate that it is desirable to raise llamas, native animals, naturally. I was at first surprised when one young man (Tomasa’s brother) told me that he did not want to use veterinary medicines for his animals. He was not a dyed-in-the-wool traditionalist, but had been part of an electronic band while at school in Tupiza, had built and operated an FM radio transmitter in Rosario and had studied veterinary medicine at university for one semester until his money ran out. His views on llamas however echoed those of his father that Tomasa had expounded but also drew similarities between llamas treated with vaccines and vegetables on which chemicals have been used: In camelids, we give some injections, a few… some medicines, but no everyone accepts them. For example, my father and my own family… and I myself, personally, I don’t want much [of 20 this]. Science also has its negative side, doesn’t it? Because our llamas and camélidos are originarios, naturales and they don’t know any type of injection… Thanks to science we get lots of vegetables, all improved and good to the eye, aren’t they? But they’re poor inside. [Geraldo, Rosario] The idea that meat from animals that have been vaccinated might be ‘poor inside’ was a recurrent theme. Several people connected the use of veterinary medicines to a perceived loss of taste in meat: ...in years gone by, we didn’t even know [antiparasitic] baths, [the llamas] were just like this, because it is better that the llama, that the llama meat… that we don’t do those things. It has more vitamins, and er… we say that we need only a little meat to go in the pot. Now that we do these things… er… we say that nothing happens with the baths, but regarding the internal [vaccines]… this is a bit… it seems to me… it does us some… it is not obviously natural. And I say that the meat is nothing, it doesn’t have any vitamins, it’s more or less like that. We throw some in the pot and nothing… we put in lots of meat… and it’s the same. But in years gone by, we used to put a little meat in the pot and it gave it flavour, but now, no, only then. This is a consequence of some of us managing [our animals] using some medicines internally. [Mauricio, Rosario] Geraldo’s uncle, a teacher in the town’s secondary school, expressed a similar opinion – that meat nowadays has a different flavour, which has probably come from the use of vaccines. Despite Andean preoccupations with needles and lik’ichiris – the extractors of fat mentioned in the introduction to this paper – the problem does not seem to be with injection as a means of administering medicines per se. Most lipeños after all seem to have no worries about having themselves or their children vaccinated at community health posts – although Geraldo’s uncle did suggest that he became sick less often than did his children who had had far more vaccinations. The problem seems to be more with the administration of unknown, ill-understood ‘chemicals’ (i.e. synthetic medicines) judged inappropriate for animals considered intrinsically clean and also ‘natural’ and their intrusion into the animals’ bodies. Opinion at least in Rosario seems to concur that llamas are naturales to the area, and are best kept ‘naturally’, without chemical interventions, conflating a colonial label with newer discourses about chemical-free foods. Plants found locally and in the valley regions are, however, suitable for treating animals.31 The meat from llamas raised naturally is said to have a better flavour, but in order to make this point, don Mauricio has to make his argument using the terminology of dominant sectors referring to the meat’s ‘vitamin’ content. As Roseberry (1994:363-4) 31 The topic of indigenous herbal animal medicines is explored more fully in another paper (Bolton 2005c). 21 notes, forms and languages of protest and resistance must adopt the forms and languages of domination in order to be heard. Bastien (2002: 173) proposes that Andeans have an ethnophysiological preoccupation with the loss, intrusion and circulation of fluids in the human (and presumably animal) body. In Lípez, while vaccinations where fluids enter the bodies of animals are regarded with suspicion, other ‘unnatural’ chemicals used externally in dips appear to be of no great concern. It should also be mentioned at this point that opinion about veterinary medicine in Sud Lípez is not uniform. Some lipeños, such as the leaders of the camelid producers’ organisation, AZCCA, expressed no doubts about the efficacy of vaccines and suggested that those who experienced problems simply did not know how to use them and some younger people such as Tomasa would give vaccination a chance were it not for the reluctance of older family members. This should not be surprising if we recall anthropological accounts of the choices people make for themselves between competing medical systems. Libbet Crandon-Malamud (1993) concluded that choices between different medical systems do not only reflect the economic and social standing of an individual within the community, but that medicine is a site through which people negotiate identity and shift affiliation. While some medicines may be more appropriate than others for llamas as naturales some herders seek to negotiate and shift their own identities through their choice of medical systems for their animals. Neoliberalism, Sacrifice and Lik’ichiris As noted at the start of this paper, in many parts of the Andes, lik’ichiris (or kahrisiris, ñakaqs or pishtacos) are human beings (most frequently white men) who prey on Indians, from whom they extract fat surreptitiously (Gose 1986, Rivière 1991, Salazár 1991, Canessa 2000, Weismantel 2001). While they commercialise their ill-gotten commodity in global markets, their unfortunate victims, now lacking the vital substance, are left to die, or in a few stories to buy back their fat from their assailants at an inflated price (Canessa 2000). Interpretations of these stories have varied with the anthropologist doing the telling, but generally feature some variant on Andean disquiet with capitalism and/or modernity, often coupled with an analysis of how capitalist, possessive, individualist gain violates Andean collective norms. 22 In a perceptive piece of analysis, Peter Gose (1986) shows how the actions of the ñakaq (lik’ichiri) amount to a ‘terrible and antisocial extension of the logic of sacrifice’ (Abercrombie 1998: 404). For Andean peasants, the powers of the landscape, high mountains, living earth and the chthonic deities of Andean mines, demand organic tribute from human beings in the form of animal and vegetable matter (extracted violently) in return for the continued fertility of land or mine. They extend this logic of sacrificial tribute to their connections with global power and the inner workings of capitalism through the terrible work of the ñakaq, who extracts fat from his sacrificial victims for sale and individual gain. Gose is ambivalent over whether the ñakaq opposes the landscape powers, since he takes fat out of circulation and consolidates it in an alien form, or whether in fact they might both be part of the same power structure – after all, both ñakaq and mountain spirit are reported to take the human form of powerful strangers (Gose 1986: 308). For Gose, that new relations of power demand organic tribute is an amoral assertion. However, Andrew Canessa asserts that the uses to which the lik’ichiri puts the fat extracted is anything but amoral. Fat, the Andean vital substance, as we have already seen, plays an important role in the relations between Andean people and the powers of the Andean landscape – the latter feed off the fat presented to them by humans in ritual offerings and in return they provide people with the vitality that inheres in human fat. Partaking in these offerings and cycles of fat is what distinguishes the members of Andean communities from outsiders (Canessa 2000: 711). The lik’ichiri, by contrast, taps into the fat that should be delivered to the earth and uses it for his own ends (Ibid.). He does not return anything to his sacrificial victims or their communities – unless it is the modernity with which he is associated. Of course, the ñakaq or lik’ichiri steals fat from humans rather than llamas. Nevertheless, Abercrombie (1998) has eloquently described from his fieldwork in Canton K’ulta in Oruro department how human beings and llamas are intimately linked metaphorically in the discourse and practices that surround sacrifice. As he describes it, the entire fiesta of Guadalupe, one of the two most important events in the canton, is predicated on a logic of sacrifice: at various points in the proceedings, llamas, fiesta sponsors, wife takers to the fiesta sponsor, dancers and image of the saint, to different 23 degrees become sacrificial victims. It is the llamas, lead male animals of the sponsors troop, that are actually sacrificed although these animals are strongly identified with their sacrificial human counterparts. Llamas to be sacrificed are paraded in the clothing of male human warriors, the fighters in tinkus or ritual battles, and wife takers to the fiesta sponsor don the pelts of the sacrificed animals. Throughout the fiesta, the sponsor is metaphorically associated with his sacrificed lead animals and llamas, parallel to human lineages, stand in for humans as sacrifice (Abercrombie 1998: 376-401). The sacrifices themselves form an important technique of social memory and llamas its intermediaries. While Sud Lípez communities do not have such elaborated sacrificial rituals as those described by Abercrombie, llama sacrifice is an important part of nearly all fiestas, and their fat is offered to powers of the landscape in various forms: when combined with white maize flour as llumpaqa it is sprinkled on ritual occasions for purification, and combined with flour and made into miniature llamas it is offered to the telluric spirits before herding rituals. The fat from the chest of a llama (ranchu) is also a powerful medicine (even for llamas themselves). There is a linguistic association between the butchering of animals and the action of the lik’ichiri, since the Aymara term kharisiri (used synonymously with lik’ichiri) means literally ‘the one who slits throats’, and its root, khariña, is the verb used for slitting the throat of an animal (Rivière 1991: 24). For Weismantel (2002: 194) the work of the lik’ichiri is literally ‘butchering Indians’. Furthermore, the techniques of this butcher of Indians, as described by Gose (1986: 296) and Salazár (1991: 18), recall not the sacrifice of an animal in the countryside, but the anonymous technified slaughter of abattoirs, described by Healy (2001) in Turco and in the Khapaq Kayninchis booklet (Congreso Mundial Sobre Camélidos 2003). The lik’ichiri drags off human (rather than llama) corpses to caves or mineshafts ‘where, hung upside down, they drip the fat of their bodies into receptacles’ or where the ñakaq removes fat from a victim’s body using a special technical apparatus with a long needle ‘used to sever the spinal nerves of animals’ (Gose 1986: 296-297. See also Salazar 1991). Efforts to commercialise llama-meat production aim to convert the animal at the heart of Andean sacrificial logic into a commodity. They also encourage herders to relate to their animals as ranchers rather than pastoralists. As Ingold (1980: 4) tellingly explains, 24 while pastoralists extend protection to their animals, who stand in for humans as sacrifice, ranchers exist in a predatory relation with them – just as the lik’ichiri exists in a predatory relationship with other human beings. It is perhaps unsurprising that Andean peasants manifest some unease about this transition. This unease, I contend, is expressed through a distrust of veterinary medicines. It may be more than a coincidence that the manufacture of medical pharmaceuticals is one of the uses to which the fat stolen from human beings is put (Gose 1986: 297, Salazár 1991: 10). In a bizarre twist, this medicine manufactured from the fat of Andean peasants sacrificed by the lik’ichiri replaces the llama-fat (ranchu) used to cure the animals that stand in for Andean peasants as sacrifice. No wonder that such medicines ruin the llamas! Gilles Rivière (1991) shows how stories about lik’ichiris from Aymara-speaking communities in Oruro department invariable make accusations against outsiders and others who do not submit to collective norms. He also describes how they are associated with times of crisis (economic, climatological, or medical) when through some collective fault the links between humans and supernatural powers have been broken or disrupted (Rivière 1991: 36). Like the stories of lik’ichiris that Rivière relates, anxieties surrounding veterinary medicines have emerged at a time of crisis – the lack of pasture and rain following the disastrous snowfall of 2002 (Rivière 1991: 36). As in Rivière’s exposition, the snowfall has blamed on a collective fault. At a workshop on oral history held by ISALP32 in 2004, some lipeños expressed the opinion that it came about through the neglect of rituals and sacrifices to the most prominent mountain of the region, Cerro Bonete. A ritual ascent of the mountain by leaders of the local ayllus, the first for many years, had been undertaken in November 2003 to reaffirm the sacrificial, tributary relation with it. The sacrifice of llamas was included as an integral part of this ritual. Lipeños know about lik’ichiris but do not seem particularly concerned by them: on asking directly about them I was told there may be some in Challapata (in distant Oruro department) and on trying to approach the subject in a more roundabout way, my inquiries were misunderstood by eleven-year-old Silvia as being about the various garrapatas (ticks) and piojos (fleas) that infest llamas. They are not without their own 32 Investigación Social y Asesoramiento Legal Potosí, an NGO specialising in legal assistance for indigenous groups. 25 stories that show unease about global trade and the products of their llamas. Many herders described to me how, in the 1970s and early 1980s they used to sell llama wool clandestinely to Argentine merchants in the villages immediately across the international border. The trade came to an abrupt end with the Falklands War, as, they say, the wool was destined for England. There, a friend in Río Rosario told me, it was used to fabricate armaments – as everyone knows that llama wool burns with a spark. While this lipeño tale has less gothic imagery than tales of lik’ichiris, it is perhaps more subtle: rather than portray Andean peasants as the unwitting victims of the slaughterer, it shows them through their need to earn cash and feed their families to be complicit with international capitalism and even the arms trade. Technified slaughter of llamas in abattoirs has not yet reached Lípez, but there herders express suspicions of the use of syringes filled with pharmaceutical medicines on their animals. The manufacture of pharmaceuticals is one use to which the fat extracted by the lik’ichiri is put. It may be, as Bastien suggests, that the introduction of such fluids disturbs the balance of fluids in the animals’ bodies, but may also express ambivalence about a neoliberal modernity that demands the commodification of the quintessentially sacrificial animal and the loosening of the intimate ties that link llamas and humans. While meat that has been slaughtered in dung-filled corrals may be abject to urban Bolivians, for Andeans the abject may be removing fat from its cycle of sacrifice with telluric beings. It appears that lipeños see clearly that the commodification of their llamas involving their transformation into meat would mean the reconfiguration of relations between humans and not just the llamas themselves but also powerful entities. While some embrace this neoliberal modernity, others have their doubts. Conclusions This paper has tried to show how urban middle and upper-class concerns about hygiene and control over the Indian population, the neoliberal ambition to convert subsistence peasants into productive, self-supporting, entrepreneurial citizens, the ambitions of NGOs to alleviate poverty and the concerns of Andean peasants over modernity all coalesce around issues of veterinary medicines for llamas. As I set out in the introduction veterinary medicine is at the centre of a hegemonic struggle for a 26 common framework through which to talk about and live out relations between humans and animals. That Andean peasants should have reservations about modernity, global trade and reconfiguring their relations with llamas should not surprise us when what is at stake is the commodification of the animal that lies at the heart of an Andean sacrificial logic, and is sacrificed to telluric spirits in the place of human beings. Does the fact that lipeños express their doubts about global trade, modernity and the inner workings of capitalism through stories of the effects of veterinary medicines mean that they have less vividly gothic imaginations than their compatriots who come up with stories of lik’ichiris? I do not believe so. Returning to Roseberry’s essay on hegemony, the author notes how in situations of hegemonic struggle the ‘forms and language of protest or resistance must adopt the forms and languages of domination in order to be heard’ (Roseberry 1994:364-5). Roseberry was thinking of how voices of community dissent in Mexico must be addressed to the proper state authorities, and must arrive in the correct offices, but perhaps more subtly lipeño herders express their concerns through a discourse that cannot be dismissed out of hand as uneducated superstition. Perhaps vaccines do damage pregnant llamas? Don’t proponents of organic farming say that natural vegetables taste better? What is more, veterinary medicine is a vehicle that can be used by Catholic and Evangelical Protestant lipeños alike to express their unease at changing relations. While don Mauricio would call himself a Catholic, and is an enthusiast for rituals (costumbres), Tomasa’s father who has the same doubts about medicines belongs to a Protestant sect. In another pastoral setting in the Andes, that of Bolivia’s northern border with Peru, Deborah Caro (1985: 213-247) wrote about herders’ resistance to capitalism in the early years of the twentieth century. They refused to work as waged labourers on the haciendas of mestizo landowners, on land that had been appropriated from indigenous communities in the first place. Their resistance was to an overtly exploitative situation. Neoliberal capitalism is more insidious and less overtly exploitative than was its earlier incarnation although it is similarly destructive of community relations and of the relationship between herders and their animals. Does the failure of lipeños to adopt the disciplinary measures of animal health and hygiene demanded by dominant sectors, however, constitute resistance to neoliberalism? 27 For Gose, stories of the ñakaq address the reality of capitalism and comprehensively explore a long relationship of exploitation by non-Andean societies. However, he is doubtful that they constitute resistance rather than an ‘erotico-religious desire for transcendence in the face of power’ (Gose 1986: 309). Other authors such as Salazár (1991: 16), write not of resistance but of ambivalence: of a simultaneous desire for and rejection of incorporation into the modern world. Lipeños manifest a similar ambivalence – a desire to continue working with their animals and to profit from them, but a simultaneous revulsion at the breaking of cycles of sacrifice and circulation of fat. Such anxieties become manifest in discourses about veterinary medicines. Bibliography Abercrombie, T. 1998. 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