Untamed Mongolia - Eternal Landscapes

UNTAMED MONGOLIA
17th June 2017 and 22nd July 2017 - 23 Days
All images used throughout this document were taken either by EL guests or members of the EL team. This
is the Mongolia that you will also experience.
Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2016
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Your Itinerary Overview
Ulaan Baatar
Day One
City Walking Tour
A more local introduction
to this vibrant frontier
style with our free city
walking tour
Your own choice of
accommodation - we do
offer a homestay in UB
Free transfer
Lunch with local family
in the ger districts
Option to tent camp next
to family ger. You will
use the family long drop
toilet. No showers.
Alternatively, basic but
private ger at small
family operated ger
camp (3 gers) in local
town and transfer out
each day
280km on asphalt and
dirt road (approx 5-6
hours driving time not
including stops)
B/L/D
175 km on dirt and
asphalt road (approx 5
hours driving time not
including stops)
B/L/D
Middle Gobi
Day Two and Three Erdenedalai
Rural community in
middle Gobi. Home to a
majority of the EL
team. Spend two days
living alongside one of
the EL families
experiencing their way
of life
*
Day Four
Baga Gazriin
Chuluu
Arildipurev and his
wife are retired but
they continue to look
after a small number of
livestock. Their English
is limited but our
guests are warmly
welcomed.
Wild Tent Camp
Spectacular granite rock
formations with a great
hike into the hidden
interior
Southern
Gobi
Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2016
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Day Five
Tsagaan Suvraga
and Dalanzagad
En-route to Dalanzagad,
stop at Tsagaan Suvraga
- named for the unique
colour of the area - this
open expanse consists
of sun-scorched rock,
scrub, 30m high
limestone formations
and emptiness. It is an
eroded landscape rich in
marine fossils.
Basic private ger at
small family operated
ger camp in town
(whatever suits you
best). Hot shower
available at local town
shower house
300km on asphalt and
dirt road (approx 6-7
hours driving time not
including stops). Yes, it’s
a long day in the vehicle
but Tsagaan Suvraga is
worth it
B/L/D
Tent Camp. Look out for
Lammergeiers (Bearded
Vultures) high up on the
thermalsThe area is
home to the Mountain
Ibex (Capra Sibirica)
and there is a possibility
you may see one up on
a mountain ridge at
sunset but silence is
required.
110km on asphalt and
dirt road (approx 4 hours
driving time not including
stops)
B/L/D
In the late afternoon,
arrive in Dalanzagad the provincial capital of
the southern Gobi.
Enjoy a horse head
fiddle concert
Day Six
Gobi Gurvan
Saikhan National
Park
Explore the interior of
the Gobi Gurvan
Saikhan National Park Mongolia’s largest
national park – a
mountainous terrain
rising out of the
extensive desert plains
and a region of
incredible biological
diversity. This
mountainous region was
formed by the same
tectonic activity that
created the Himalayas
and is part of the Gobi
Altai Range – the outer
crumple zone of the
Himalayan geological
activity.
* Includes the beautiful
Dungene Am and
famous (but very busy)
Yolyn Am
And of course, you can
always wash using the
water coming directly
from the mountains and yes it is cold, even
in the Gobi!
Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2016
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Day Seven and Eight
Khongoryn Els
Sand Dunes
Spectacular!
Includes one-day camel
trek an wild camping in
dunes
Basic but private ger at
small family
(Baasankhuu) operated
ger camp (5-6 gers).
Asian style outside long
drop toilet. No showers.
110km on asphalt and
dirt road (approx 4 hours
driving time not including
stops)
B/L/D
Provincial Hotel (ensuite)
320km on asphalt and
dirt road (approx 6-7
hours driving time not
including stops). Yes, it’s
a long day in the vehicle
but there are some great
stops
B/L/D
Tent Camp
160 km on dirt road
(approx 5-6 hours
driving time not including
stops)
B/L/D
* Baasankhuu’s story is
one of modern-day
Mongolia. He was born
in the area and married
a local woman. They
had two daughters and
made their living as
herders. Unfortunately,
they have recently
divorced - Ma'am has
moved away and
Baasankhuu now lives in
Ulaanbaatar in the
winter and the southern
Gobi in the summer.
The location is key here
- you are not reliant on a
vehicle to access the
dunes. It's a twenty to
thirty minute walk to the
base of the dunes from
the family ger which
gives you so much more
freedom and flexibility
especially for exploring
at sunrise etc.
Central
Heartland
Day Nine
Arvaikheer
Today you will travel on
what we think is one of
the most spectacular
roads in the country this is the ultimate
Mongolian road trip. Sit
back and enjoy the
views
Day Ten
Khogno Khan
Nature Reserve
Sacred granite mountain
home to a community of
nomadic herders.
Beautiful (not too
challenging) hiking
option
Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2016
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Day Eleven
Our campsite deep in
the Khangai Mountains.
Spend an evening
camping next to a small
lake within an area of
forest steppe where
herders make their
home.
Day Twelve and
Thirteen
Tent Camp
Tsenkher
190km on dirt and
asphalt road
B/L/D
180km on dirt and
asphalt road (approx 4
hours driving time not
including stops)
B/L/D
An alternative, is to stay
with with the extended
Galbadrakh family - yak
herders in the Khangai
Mountains. The
Galbadrakh family have
no guest gers. They live
as part of a ‘khot ail’ - an
extended family and just
make one of the family
gers available for guests
to sleep in
Terkhiin Tsagaan
Nuur National Park
Take a walk on the wild
side. Get off the beaten
track at our campsite
overlooking this alpine
lake
Tent Camp
Northern
Landscapes
Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2016
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Day Fourteen to
Seventeen
Day Eighteen and
Nineteen
Tent Camp
Wild Camping
Four day journeying,
exploring and
discovering some of the
in-between landscapes
that connect the
Khangai Mountains with
Khovsgol. These days
have been left flexible as
although there are no
hiking trails there is
plenty of scope for dayhikes within these
timeless landscapes.
The area is also rich in
archaeology including
burial mounds (some
dating back to the
Bronze Age) as well as
Deer Stones - known as
Bugan Khoshoo in
Mongolian they are
believed to possibly be
ancient grave markers
for warrior chiefs.
Khovsgol Nuur
National Park
Khovsgol Nuur is known
as Dalai Ej - Mother Sea
to Mongolians. It is a
spiritual place for
Mongolians and its
natural beauty makes it
a stunning location to
take a little time out.
Biologists use the word
ecotone for places
where different habitats
meet - where a forest
meets a meadow or a
lake meets a shore.
Khovsgol is an ecotone
on a very large scale.
300km on dirt road
over four days
This will include at least
one night at the home of
the Basaanchuluu
(Bambakh for short!)
family. They are a family
of young traditional
‘malchin’ or herders who
make their home in the
mountain forest steppe
roughly 8km from the
small community of
Khatgal at the southern
edge of Khovsgol Nuur
B/L/D
* Traditional Mongolian
barbecue at the home of
Bambakh
(Tent camp next to
family ger or basic
private ger next to family
ger (depending on
availability). Asian style
long-drop toilet and no
shower )
Tourist Ger Camp (due
to restrictions at the NP,
we are not permiited to
camp. We cannot
confirm the
accommodation at this
stage as every time it is
different - either a
tourist ger camp or a
family ger camp. Please
just be prepared to be
flexible!
45km on dirt road
(approx one hour driving
time)
B/L/D
Khovsgol is 126km in
length and represents
roughly 70% of
Mongolia’s fresh water
and is the younger sister
to Lake Baikal in Siberia
and part of the same Rift
System. If the sky is
clear, you can stand on
the shoreline and see
the snowcapped Sayan
Mountains - the border
with Siberia. It is truly
spectacular.
Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2016
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Day Twenty
Tent Camp
240km on asphalt and
dirt road (approx 5-6
hours driving time not
including stops).
B/L/D
Provincial Hotel
(western style toilet and
hot showers but not ensuite)
240km on asphalt and
dirt road (approx 5-6
hours driving time not
including stops).
B/L/D
Tent Camp
280km on asphalt and
dirt road (approx 6-7
hours driving time not
including stops).
B/L/D
Selenge Gol
A spectacular sunset
view over this
magnificent river valley
Day Twenty One
Bulgan
Enjoy small town life
(and a hot shower!) and if you would like to,
have dinner with Tsgogo
and Chimegee - a young
local family (a gas
station manager and
kindergarten teacher)
Da Twenty Two
Khustain Nuruu
After a picnic breakfast
overlooking the tranquil
Orkhon River, travel on
through the natural
beauty of the central
rolling grasslands and
steppe valleys. Rather
than rushing back to UB
and arriving late, we
spend one more night
out in the Mongolian
countryside. Tonight
camp overlooking
Khustai Nuruu and an
expansive view of sand
dunes, agricultural fields
and mountains.
As this is your final night
in ‘wild’ Mongolia, we
suggest you spend a
little time saying goodbye to the epic
landscapes of this
remarkable country. Why
not watch the sunset
from the nearest
ridgeline - taking in the
views out over the
steppe and back across
to the mountains.
Ulaan Baatar
Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2016
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Day Twenty-Three
Return Ulaan Baatar
Accommodation of your
choice in UB
Drive back to UB where
we’ll transfer you to your
accommodation and the
rest of the day will be
yours to create your own
experience. Remember
you could use our UB
guide to help you to
explore the urban side of
Mongolian life in
downtown Ulaan Baatar.
Alternatively, one of our
trip assistants could be
made available but
please let me know in
advance
Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2016
100km on asphalt
and dirt road (approx
2 hours driving time)
B/L
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Map Of Route
Alternatively, use our interactive map
Pricing And Group Size
For all of our small group trips I offer a sliding price scale. I appreciate your holiday funds are precious
and so the more people that book so the price comes down and everyone benefits
Group Size - Minimum of two and maximum of six
• 2 Guests
US$ 4220 pp
• 3 Guests
US$ 3413 pp
• 4-5 Guests
US$ 3088 pp
• 6 Guests
US$ 2728 pp
Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2016
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21st Century Mongolia Versus Guidebook Mongolia!
Mongolia is frequently depicted as a pristine untouched wilderness where the traditional nomadic way of life still remains.
Well. It is. And it isn’t. Our trips focus on 21st Century Mongolia - we try to provide a ‘realistic’ overview rather than that
portrayed by guidebooks and other tour companies. To just want to experience the life of the traditional nomadic way of
life is to ignore a majority of the population.
Mongolians are not just divided between those who live in Ulaanbaatar and nomads. It's not just about the minority groups
of the Kazakhs or the Tsaatan either. Mongolians live in the cities of Darkhan and Erdenet. They also live in the other
provincial centres as well as the smaller town and rural communities. There are teachers and Christians and those
with disabilities and policemen and musicians and military personnel and accountants and miners and geologists and
drivers and shop owners and construction workers and street cleaners - they are all Mongolians.
Mongolia’s herders are under a lot of pressure. Yes, you want to experience their way of life but for them, their most
important focus is looking after their livestock. The guidebooks mention the traditional hospitality of Mongolia’s nomads,
but they don’t mention their daily workload and how this often means there is not time to welcome visiting guests with
tea. Don’t travel to Mongolia expecting to sit each evening discussing with your hosts about their way of life as nomads. It
just won’t happen.
So. What do you do? Ditch your expectations based on what you’ve read and watched. Instead come with an open mind
and be challenged and surprised.The landscapes are immense and weathered and stark and remarkable. But you will be
shocked by the amount of rubbish.Yes, there is still a nomadic way of life. But herders have smartphones. The traditional
culture still remains. But the literacy rate hovers around 97% (yes, 97%) and there is a drive for modernity and progress.
But it is a country that will impact on you greatly. Of that there is no doubt.
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Any questions, queries or concerns? Just send them across to me at jess@eternal-
landscapes.co.uk. I am always happy to be of help!
Jess
Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2016
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