ACONCAGUA — ARGENTINA (22,837 feet - 6,987 meters) OPEN ENROLLMENT MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITIONS 25 January - 13 February 2014 $4850 non-members, $4600 members This gigantic mountain is one of the 7 summits. It is highest peak in the Southern & Western Hemispheres - the tallest outside of Asia. Come join Earth Treks as we climb to the summit of this amazing mountain in Argentina. A must on any true mountaineer’s checklist. YOU GOTTA WANNA. The weather on Aconcagua can be downright nasty (El Viento Blanco - The White Wind). One must be able to endure high winds, rare air and mind-numbing cold in order to summit Aconcagua. It’s a long journey with no shortcuts. being physically & mentally prepared to suffer to the top are essential. The expedition begins in the town of Mendoza, famous for it’s fine dining and wonderful selection of local wines, produced in the local vineyards. We will gather all our necessary equipment, food and climbing permits from the Argentina Provincial Park agency. We will drive 4 hours west into the mountains to Punta del Inca, the jumping off place at the resort town, Penitentes. Once cleared at the trailhead by park personnel, we will pack up mules with our equipment and head up the Horcones Valley toward basecamp. Our acclimatization schedule allows for us to spend 2 evenings in our first camp, Confluencia. We will take a day to “climb high, sleep low” by visiting Camp Francia and gazing at the stunning and famed South Face rising nearly 10,000 feet above us, one of the biggest alpine faces in the world. Our next day takes us on the long slow trek to basecamp of Plaza de Mulas from which we will operate for the next 2 weeks. Over the following 10 days, we will move ourselves up the mountain by climbing up to a camp (Canada, Nido de Condores and finally, Berlin) and either returning to our previous camp - caching gear (again, climbing high and sleeping low), OR...spending a rest day in that camp to allow our bodies to adjust to the new altitude. Our conservative schedule allows for not only rest days, but also there are 3 “extra” days we have built in to our itinerary. These extra days will create a comfortable buffer to insure that weather, illness and other setbacks will maximize opportunities to summit Aconcagua are taken into consideration. It’s a time-tested formula and is essential for anyone who hopes to ascend this mountain. When the time is best - our team will be ready. When you’re standing on the summit, you’ll be proud of all the hard work and logistics you’ve overcome to stand on the highest peak in the Western Hemisphere! You’ve done it! Now it’s time to descend, because the trip is not quite over... The journey takes us back to basecamp, for a nice meal, good night sleep and early start for the 25 mile 1-day trek back to the trailhead. It’s a rough hike home, but well worth it once we’re back in Mendoza, recollecting the good, the bad, the ugly and raising our glasses in celebration of an expedition that will remain in our minds forever. Time to fly home for Valentine’s Day! ROCK CLIMBING INSTRUCTION • MOUNTAINEERING GUIDE SERVICE • INDOOR CLIMBING CENTERS 7125 C COLUMBIA GATEWAY DRIVE • COLUMBIA, MD 21046 • 800-CLIMB-UP • [email protected] 1 ACONCAGUA — ARGENTINA (22,837 feet - 6,987 meters) OPEN ENROLLMENT MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITIONS Aconcagua 2014 Long Itinerary Day 1 Sat Jan 25th Leave U.S. Day 2 Sun Jan 26th Arrive in Mendoza, city of fine wine and dining and the jumping off town for Aconcagua expeditions. Enjoy a meal in one of Mendoza’s excellent restaurants as a start to the amazing expedition. Mendoza’s elevation is 2,500’. Day 3 Mon Jan 27th Team meeting in AM. Double check all equipment, food, etc. Obtain permits. Drive 4 hours west to Penitentes (8,800’). Stay in motel. Day 4 Tues Jan 28th Drive to check in with the Park personnel. Start of the hiking up the Horcones river valley. We will pack our mules with gear and hike with day packs 8 miles to our first camp - Confluencia (11,000’). Hike time: 4-6 hours. Day 5 Wed Jan 29th Day hike to Plaza Francia (13,900’, 9 mile roundtrip, 6-8 hours), gaze up at the awesome 9,500’ South Face of Aconcagua. Return to camp at Confluencia (11,000’) Day 6 Thurs Jan 30th An all-day, 17 mile hike up the valley toward Plaza de Mulas (14,300’) will be filled with amazing views in this broad valley, We will negotiate river crossings, steep hills and work around mules as well as other groups. 8-10 hours. Day 7 Fri Jan 31st Today we will get settled into our Plaza de Mulas basecamp and take a well-deserved rest day. We will relax by eating hearty meals, meeting the climbers from all over the world who have come here, take naps, and relax. Day 8 Sat Feb 1st The team will carry food, group gear and axes/crampons to Plaza Canada @ 16,570’, return to Plaza de Mulas early afternoon. ROCK CLIMBING INSTRUCTION • MOUNTAINEERING GUIDE SERVICE • INDOOR CLIMBING CENTERS 7125 C COLUMBIA GATEWAY DRIVE • COLUMBIA, MD 21046 • 800-CLIMB-UP • [email protected] 2 ACONCAGUA — ARGENTINA (22,837 feet - 6,987 meters) OPEN ENROLLMENT MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITIONS Itinerary (continued) Day 9 Sun Feb 2nd Our next major move up the mountain will entail establishing ourselves at Camp Canada (16,570’). 4-6 hours of travel. Day 10 Mon Feb 3rd Move to Nido de Condores (18,270’). 4-6 hours of travel. Day 11 Tues Feb 4th We will take another well deserved rest day at Condores Camp, and hydrate, eat well, assess the teams strength, the weather (including forecasts) and prepare for moving to our final camp. Day 12 Wed Feb 5th An early start to get to our final camp - Berlin @ 19,200’ in time to set up, prepare water, food and mostly rest before our summit push. Day 13 Thurs Feb 6th Summit @ 22,835’. 12-14 hours. 3,600’ elevation gain. Back to Berlin (19,200’). Day 14 Fri Feb 7th Descend to Plaza de Mulas (14,300’) Day 15 Sat Feb 8th Plaza de Mulas – Penitentes.(8,800’). 25 miles. 10-14 hours. Day 16 Sun Feb 9th Extra day (last possible summit day). Day 17 Mon Feb 10th Extra day Day 18 Tues Feb 11th Extra day Day 19 Wed Feb 12th Return to Mendoza. Celebration Dinner. Sleep. Day 20 Thurs Feb 13th Day 21 Fri Feb 14th Depart Argentina for USA. Arrive USA for Valentines day celebrations! ROCK CLIMBING INSTRUCTION • MOUNTAINEERING GUIDE SERVICE • INDOOR CLIMBING CENTERS 7125 C COLUMBIA GATEWAY DRIVE • COLUMBIA, MD 21046 • 800-CLIMB-UP • [email protected] 3 ACONCAGUA — ARGENTINA (22,837 feet - 6,987 meters) OPEN ENROLLMENT MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITIONS Land Costs Include: 1. Transportation and accommodation in Argentina (double occupancy). One night of motel accommodation in Penitentes, two nights in Mendoza. 2. All group climbing, tent & cook gear 3. All meals in the mountains 4. Guides 5. Mules (30 kilos personal gear) & porters for transport of group gear/food. 6. Cook during the expedition in basecamps. Land Costs DO NOT Include: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Airfare. Personal gear, including mountain boots, crampons & ice ax. All park fees (climbing permits - $700 in 2012/13 season which also covers evacuation). Argentinian Reciprocity fee (paid at airport - $160 and good for 10 years). Additional hotels, meals and transportation should the climb end early (trip covers 1 night before and after the mountain). 6. Meals, hotels and transportation outside the regular itinerary. 7. Unscheduled airport shuttles 8. Single-room supplement for hotels (and tents). 9. Travel and/or trip insurance, including rescue insurance. 10. Bottled drinks and alcohol 11. Personal porters 12. Tips and gratuities ROCK CLIMBING INSTRUCTION • MOUNTAINEERING GUIDE SERVICE • INDOOR CLIMBING CENTERS 7125 C COLUMBIA GATEWAY DRIVE • COLUMBIA, MD 21046 • 800-CLIMB-UP • [email protected] 4 ACONCAGUA — ARGENTINA (22,837 feet - 6,987 meters) OPEN ENROLLMENT MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITIONS Equipment List We have divided this list into several parts in order to facilitate shopping and packing. Please do not hesitate to call if you have any questions regarding the items on this list. In many cases, while shopping you will be presented with several manufacturers’ products to choose from. Please consult the sales staff before spending a lot of money on something that might not meet your needs. While approaching basecamp, we can expect daytime temperatures as cool as the 30’s, as warm as the 60s, and evening temps can dip below freezing. As we get higher the temps will continue to drop and by the time we go for the summit, we need to be prepared for temperatures as low as twenty below zero Fahrenheit. Aconcagua is known for some fierce winds as well, adding up to arctic conditions. This is not the trip to skimp on gear as your safety will depend on it. Earth Treks will supply the following: Guides, group climbing gear, group camping gear and group first aid supplies. The items marked with an * are included as part of your expedition. We won’t have time to shop in Mendoza before we leave and much of the gear you need would be difficult to find in Mendoza so be sure to have all the items before you fly. CITY /TRAVEL • • • • • • • • • • T-Shirts Shorts Long sleeved shirts (at least one suitable for wear in a nice restaurant) Long pants Underwear Socks Tennis/approach shoes which can be used to walk in camp as well. Fleece jacket Passport style wallet (worn around neck) or waist belt style wallet $500 to $800 spending money (restaurant meals, gifts, staff/guide tips, optional porters while on mountain.) This does not include the $700 permit fee. • Sunglasses (or glacier glasses—see next page • Baseball hat or visor CLIMBING CLOTHING • Balaclava • Wool/Polarfleece hat • 2 pairs of lightweight glove liners or wind-stopper fleece gloves (that fit under the mountaineering glove/ mitten—see next page) ROCK CLIMBING INSTRUCTION • MOUNTAINEERING GUIDE SERVICE • INDOOR CLIMBING CENTERS 7125 C COLUMBIA GATEWAY DRIVE • COLUMBIA, MD 21046 • 800-CLIMB-UP • [email protected] 5 ACONCAGUA — ARGENTINA (22,837 feet - 6,987 meters) OPEN ENROLLMENT MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITIONS Equipment List (continued) • Mountaineering gloves insulated enough for the Arctic, i.e. Gore-tex shelled with removable inner liner (DO NOT SKIMP ON THIS ITEM) Example product: Outdoor Research Alti Gloves • Mountaineering mittens insulated enough for the Arctic, i.e. Gore-tex shelled with a removeable liner (DO NOT SKIMP ON THIS ITEM EITHER!) Example product: Outdoor Research Alti Mitts • 2 pairs of heavy weight wool socks. Example product: Thorlo or Smartwool brand in mountaineering weight • Lightweight liner socks 1-2 pair • Midweight socks 2-3 pair • Hiking boots (light to medium weight) May be used for the approach to basecamp if conditions allow. Example product: Keen Bryce, Merrel Moab Ventilator • Mountaineering boots Example product: La Sportiva Baruntses, Spantiks, or Olympus Mons Evos. Due to the extreme temps we may encounter, double layer boots are highly recommended. • Bandanas (2) • Non-cotton underwear (men- capilene boxers or briefs / women- polypro sports bras, cotton or polypro briefs are ok) • Silk-weight capilene (or other wicking synthetic) t-shirts • Quick-dry shorts (can be same as city travel shorts) • Long underwear - 1 pair of mid-weight and 1 pair of expedition weight, capilene or merino wool tops and bottoms. The merino wool styles made by Ibex and Icebreaker can be less stinky when worn for many days in a row. Tops with a hood can be nice and you should also look for styles with extra long arms with thumb holes such that the sleeves will end up covering half of your hand. • Gore-tex parka - This layer should be sized to fit over all your other layers except your down jacket. Example products: Arcteryx Alpha jackets (LT or SV) or Outdoor Research Mentor jacket • Gore-tex pants (or similar fabric). Helpful to have ventilating side zips. • Down or synthetic filled insulated jacket (lightweight and packable) sized to fit over all of your insulation layers and Gore-tex outer shell. One with an attached hood is highly recommended. Example products: Patagonia DAS Parka, Mountain Hardwear Sub Zero, Marmot Guides Down Hoody • Down or synthetic filled insulated sweater (lightweight and packable) One with an attached hood is highly recommended. Example products: Outdoor Research Transcendent Hoody or Patagonia Down Sweater Full Zip Hoody • Gaiters (Sized to fit over mountain boots. Your double boots will be significantly bigger than your regular hiking boots so you may need a new pair) Example product: Outdoor Research Crocodiles • Ice Axe (approximately 60 to 70 cm length) with a long leash Example product: CAMP Corsa, Black Diamond Raven • Pair of crampons (step-in crampons with anti-balling plates are strongly recommended) ROCK CLIMBING INSTRUCTION • MOUNTAINEERING GUIDE SERVICE • INDOOR CLIMBING CENTERS 7125 C COLUMBIA GATEWAY DRIVE • COLUMBIA, MD 21046 • 800-CLIMB-UP • [email protected] 6 ACONCAGUA — ARGENTINA (22,837 feet - 6,987 meters) OPEN ENROLLMENT MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITIONS Equipment List (continued) GENERAL EQUIPMENT • Passport/Visa. US citizens do not need a visa. International citizens: plan ahead - it may take 2 months to receive your visa. Make sure that your passport expiration date is at least 9 months beyond your departure date. Check with the US Department of State (www.travel.state.gov) for details and requirements. You will need $160 for the Argentinian “reciprocity fee”, which is good for 10 years. • Backpack (5,000 cubic inch or more) Pack Cover (Optional) • Compact sleeping bag, with stuffsack, rated to -10 to -20 degrees Fahrenheit. • Full length pad Example product: Therm-a-rest NeoAir or Big Agnes Dual or Air core. • Stuff sacks (or plastic bags to help organize your gear) • Collapsible/Telescoping ski or trekking poles • Headlamp with spare batteries • 4 Large heavy plastic garbage bags • 6 Ziplock plastic bags (for books and organizing small items) • Glacier glasses with strap (should have dark lenses and full side coverage) • Ski goggles • Sunblock and lipblock (bring SPF25 or stronger) • Toilet articles (tooth brush, Purel type handwash, biodegradable soap, wash and dry towelettes, hand towel, shampoo, tampons, multi-vitamins, moisturizing lotion, etc.) • Personal first aid kit (including band aids, ibuprofen, Tylenol, Rolaids, Pepto-Bismol tablets, Imodium A-D, moleskin/molefoam and cough drops) • Personal medications including 500 mg time release Diamox capsules and one course of Ciprofloxin – see your expedition application, general information medical section, for details. • Ear Plugs (a nice item for sleeping) • Locks for your luggage • 6-8 zip-ties for luggage zippers • Energy Food and Snacks (see attached Food & Hydration Recommendations list) • Hydration System (see attached Food & Hydration Recommendations list) OPTIONAL ITEMS • • • • Camera (spare battery, extra media cards, etc.) Day pack (for city, climbs and hikes; 2000-3500 cubic inch) Journal, sketch pad, paperback books, portable music (with replaceable batteries or battery pack) Pocket Spanish phrase book and dictionary NOTES Pack all equipment in 2 duffel bags. Make sure that you weigh your bags as most airlines are strict about a 50 lb limit (especially if you are traveling during the post December holiday season). To lock your baggage, ROCK CLIMBING INSTRUCTION • MOUNTAINEERING GUIDE SERVICE • INDOOR CLIMBING CENTERS 7125 C COLUMBIA GATEWAY DRIVE • COLUMBIA, MD 21046 • 800-CLIMB-UP • [email protected] 7 ACONCAGUA — ARGENTINA (22,837 feet - 6,987 meters) OPEN ENROLLMENT MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITIONS Equipment List (continued) use zip-ties or TSA approved locks. Once in the country you can lock your bags with your travel locks. Once at the trailhead, you will start by carrying your back pack and a mule will carry one duffel. That duffel should be waterproof or everything inside should be in sturdy plastic bags. You can use the other duffle to store any clothing at our hotel that you will not take on the climb. The amount of fun you will have on this trip is directly proportional to how comfortable you are. The extra dollars and time you spend acquiring quality climbing gear and warm clothing will be your guarantee of comfort. Food and Hydration Recommendations In the sport of mountaineering, providing your body with the necessary fuel to get to the summit is critical. We recommend the combined use of electrolyte tablets, energy gels and bars such as Nuun tablets (www.nuun. com), GU gels (www.guenergy.com), Clif Shots, GU Chomps, Clif Shot Bloks, and Clif bars (www.clifbar.com). We particularly like Nuun’s special formulation of electrolytes, which help increase the amount of water that’s absorbed into the blood stream. Plus, it comes in a “no mess” tablet form that is quick to dissolve and easy to transport. These “energy foods” provide a stable release of energy unlike the sugar rush that a candy bar’s will. They require very little digestive energy to metabolize, and are designed to be taken with a few sips of water. We recommend the following numbers as a minimum per person. Aconcagua - 10 Bars and 20 (100 calorie servings of) Gels/ Chomps/ Bloks. Please Note: We DO NOT recommend Power Bar brand bars since they are prone to freezing and require larger amounts of water to properly digest. Please experiment with different brands/flavors/textures PRIOR to your expedition to see how your body processes this type of food! Earth Treks has found that the use of a Hydration Pack, allowing you to drink on the go, greatly reduces the chances of becoming dehydrated. The hydration system we recommend is a 2 quart hydration pack with an insulated hose. In addition a 1 quart wide mouth water bottle with an insulated water bottle parka (with a zippered lid) is required. Here is the hydration system we strongly recommend: • Hydration Pack with waistbelt- Example product: Camelbak Zoid • Quart Water Bottle - Example product: Nalgene 1 Qt Wide Mouth • Water Bottle Parka - Must fully enclose the water bottle, including top. Example product: Outdoor Research Water Bottle Parka ROCK CLIMBING INSTRUCTION • MOUNTAINEERING GUIDE SERVICE • INDOOR CLIMBING CENTERS 7125 C COLUMBIA GATEWAY DRIVE • COLUMBIA, MD 21046 • 800-CLIMB-UP • [email protected] 8
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