PROFESSIONAL
the
coloring
book
THE FIRST OF ITS KIND
REVOLUTIONARY
SCIENCE
SUPER
SIZE
200 ml 6.76 FL. OZ.
NH3 CONTROL
A M M O N I A E N C A P S U L AT I O N T E C H N O LO GY
INTERNATIONAL PATENT
This patented technology electromagnetically attracts, encapsulates
and locks the Ammonia molecules and the emerging vapors into the
color cream at the moment of activation with the BIG OXY BUTTER
Developers.
The encapsulated ammonia is then transported directly to the hair shaft
where it gently and naturally opens the cuticles while acting as a
catalyst enhancing the pigmentation process.
Once the color development is completed the water-soluble ammonia
is easily carried away by water leaving no ammonia residues and no
unpleasant irritating vapors or odors.
NANO-ABSORBED
MOLECULAR MAGNETS
NH3 CONTROL AMMONIA
ENCAPSULATION
ACTIVATED AMMONIA
+
=
AMMONIA VAPORS RELEASE
COMPARISON BETWEEN MAIN COMPETITORS
BIG PROFESSIONAL AMMONIA ENCAPSULATION TECHNOLOGY
1st RANKING WORLD LEADER (L1)
2nd RANKING WORLD LEADER (W2)
AMMONIA (NH3) PPM LEVELS
3rd RANKING WORLD LEADER (S3)
AMMONIA VAPOR THRESHOLD VALUE
COLOR PROCESSING TIME MINUTES
THE RED LINE REPRESENTS THE LEVEL OF HUMAN PERCEPTION TO THE PRESENCE
OF AMMONIA VAPORS; below the red line humans are unaware to the presence of
ammonia vapors. The GREY AREA represents high levels of toxicity.
LOWEST AMMONIA CONTENT
Thanks to the NH3 Control Technology the performance of the Ammonia is
concentrated and non-dispersed into the atmosphere.
BIG PROFESSIONAL SUPER SONIC COLORS are formulated with less
than 1% ammonia in the mixture. The Ammonia used is of the highest
pharmaceutical quality and derived from 100% natural origins, therefore is
gentle and non-drying to the hair.
BOND-REDUCTION
This advanced technology gently reduces the hydrogen
bonds, ionic bonds and disulphide bonds within the hair’s
polypeptide structures, facilitating pigment penetration
without breakage or damage to the bonds.
The Big Professional Color cream contains 98.9% pure,
ultra-refined color pigments which instantly enter, cluster and
fuse with the hair’s amino acid keratin protein structures.
CUTICLE
PEPTIDE AND PROTEIN
DISULFIDE BONDS
MEDULLA
CORTEX
PEPT-TEIN TARGET
PIGMENTATION
CLUSTERS
*Natural hair pigment (melanin) is located in the cortex linked to the amino acid protein structures:
Melanin is tiny grains of pigment that gives natural color to hair.
There are three types of melanin:
Eumelanin - Blue
Tricosiderin - Red
Pheomelanin - Yellow
BIG PRO SUPER SONIC COLOR pigment calibrations and technologies mimics the look of
natural pigmentation and anchors the cosmetic ultra-refined pigment blends through
bond reduction linkage to the amino acid structures without damage to the bonds.
The final effect is a natural multi-chromatic color as if it was created by nature,
leaving hair integral, translucent, shinny and elastic..
COLORS & REPAIRS
A-BKC™ COMPLEX
BENEFITS
• Desert Date Nut Oil
• Olive Oil
• Avocado Oil
• Cacao Extract
• Pomegranate Extract
• Bamboo Protein & Amino Acids
• Sicilian Citrus Blend
vitamins A, B, C, E and K,
along with Omega 3, 6, 7,
and 9 fatty acids
• Recreates cuticles & seals color
• Smoothes static & frizz
• Repairs damage
• Prevents split ends
• Moisturizes & emulsifies dry hair
• Strengthens fragile hair
• Adds luster, softness and
a silky finish
• Improves detangling
& manageability
• Keeps hair youthful & elastic
• UV & environmental protection
ESSENTIAL OILS &
BOTANIC EXTRACTS
SYNERGY APPLIED:
HAIR STRAND
ROOT
HAIR STRAND
LENGTH
HAIR STRAND
END
TARGET REPAIR
FILLING ACTION
F-SIMS IMAGES OF DIFFERENT REGIONS OF THE HAIR FIBRE AFTER
(1)
(2)
F-SIMS IMAGES OF HAIR COLORED WITH A-BkC Complex (1)
COMPAIRED TO HAIR COLORED WITH CLASSIC CREAM COLOR (2)
BASIC TECHNICAL APPLICATION INFO
BIG OXY BUTTER OXIDIZING EMULSION CHOICE:
10 VOL. (3 %)
COVERS GRAY HAIR, COLOR DEPOSIT AND TONE-ON-TONE IDEAL FOR DARKER SHADES
20 VOL. (6 %)
COVERS GRAY HAIR AND LIGHTENS 1-2 LEVELS
30 VOL. (9 %)
COVERS GRAY HAIR AND LIGHTENS 2-3 LEVELS
40 VOL. (12 %)
COVERS GRAY HAIR AND LIGHTENS 3-4 LEVELS
BIG PROFESSIONAL RECOMENDED BASIC MIXING RATIOS
1:1½ Standard / 1:2 Ultra Light Blondes
AN INCORRECT CHOICE OF PEROXIDE IS EQUAL TO AN INCORRECT CHOICE OF COLOR
Peroxide Too High In Strength / the end results may be……
•
Lighter, much warmer brassy tone results – too much lightening of natural pigment
•
Increased porosity and cuticle damage – color translucent and faded
•
Decreased color retention because of cuticle damage
Peroxide Too Low In Strength / the end results may be……..
•
Deep flat result - no lightening of natural pigment
•
Low peroxide is useful when covering white hair or very resistant hair
•
There is very little lift – much more deposit of color
•
It is essential that peroxide is measured exactly, and the correct strength used for the desired effect.
TEMPERATURE – HOW IT CAN AFFECT YOUR COLOR WORK!
Did you know that heat and cold could affect the strength of peroxide?
If you place someone under the dryer, the average temperature is 120 Fahrenheit (49° Celsius), 20
volume peroxide now acts as 25 to 30 volume peroxide. You can now achieve higher lifts of color,
deeper deposit or shorter coloring times.
This also works in the reverse, If it is 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20° Celsius) in temperature the peroxide
will drop 1 - 2 volumes of strength for every 2 degrees Fahrenheit to become 18 volume, (at 62.6°F
- 17°C of temperature the 20 Volume peroxide then acts as 16 volume and lower depending on
colder room temps.).
In winter, ensure the head is covered up during processing time, to maintain heat.
The ideal temperature for standard color processing is 72 degrees Fahrenheit (22° Celsius).
PREPARATION:
Mixing ratio is 1.5 parts BIG OXY BUTTER to 1 part BIG PROFESSIONAL Color Cream:
(pour 75 ml of BIG OXY BUTTER 10, 20, 30 or 40 volumes depending on desired result) in a mixing bowl,
add 50 ml of BIG PROFESSIONAL Coloring Cream, mix until a smooth even texture is obtained.
Mixing ratio for Ultra-Light Blonde Super Lighteners is 2 parts BIG OXY BUTTER
(30 or 40 volumes depending on desired result) to 1 part BIG PROFESSIONAL Color Cream:
(100 ml of BIG OXY BUTTER to 50 ml BIG PROFESSIONAL Color Cream).
VIRGIN APPLICATION:
Starting approx. 1/2 inch (2cm) distance from the scalp, firstly distribute the color mixture
to the mid-lengths and ends of hair, once completed, re-prepare the coloring mixture and
distribute it evenly on the roots, leave in pose a minimum of 10 - 15 minutes or until desired results.
Once completed the processing time, gradually add small amounts of lukewarm water, emulsify
the color cream into a rich lather then abundantly rinse.
• An alternative to using water to emulsify the color cream try using BIG BACK BAR “Post-Color
COLOR FIX Leave-in Spray” conditioner to neutralize the alkalinity and close the cuticle.
RETOUCHING:
Evenly distribute the prepared coloring mixture onto the hair’s re-growth, leave in pose a
minimum of 10 - 15 minutes or until desired results.
At the end of the processing time, add a small amount of lukewarm water to any remaining
color cream and extend the product onto the hair’s lengths and ends.
Leave in pose until the desired result is achieved, then gradually add small amounts of lukewarm
water, emulsify the color cream into a rich lather and abundantly rinse.
Note:
• After rinsing proceed with BIG BACK BAR “Post-Color Shampoo” and “Post-Color Conditioner”
to neutralize residual alkalinity and restore the physiological state of hair and scalp.
• Conclude the color service with BIG BACK BAR “Color Fix Leave-in Spray” to seal in and protect the
resulting beautiful color.
COVERAGE OF RESISTANT GREY HAIR:
In most cases, when covering over 50% to 100% gray or salt-&-pepper hair, the desired shade will
have to be mixed with either a gold base color or a neutral/natural base shade in order to make up for
the lack of pigment in the hair.
Therefore working on 100% white (non-pigmented) hair, it is necesary to mix in the missing shade
(gold/red), or both as in natural series brown, in order to make up for the lack of these natural
piments in the white (non-pigmented) hair.
* (Apply gentle heat when extra color penetration, lift and deposit is required)
To get total gray coverage on resistant white or gray hair 50% or more, you will need to use a level
8.0 natural blonde or darker. (If the hair is a fine texture, level 9 may work).
Never use a straight ash blonde tint on high percentage gray hair even if you want an ash blonde
finished result. Gray hair is ash by nature; therefore, if you use a straight ash tint on it, you will get
very drab results. Ash Hair+Ash Tint = More Ash/Drab Color. The hair could look smokey, gunmetal
green, lavender, or steel gray depending on the shade selected and the predominent undertones.
GRAY HAIR CAN PRODUCE UNDERTONES WHEN LIFTING & DEPOSITING COLOR:
The undertones are generated by the lifting action. The undertones combined with the color
deposited is what gives the hair its final color result. The chosen color will dominate the final
result when it is one-two levels darker than the lightened melanin. Gray hair will always turn
yellow when lightened because of the pheomelanin (reddish-yellow) pigment which is still in the hair.
The color of the lightened melanin will dominate the final result if the color is the same level or
lighter than the natural haircolor.
• All gray hair is not created equal and therefore, will not react the same to coloring, bleaching or toning.
* Coarse textured gray hair will always react slower and have a longer processing time.
* Finer textured gray hair will always react quicker and have a shorter processing time.
On the same head of hair, a mixture of fine, medium and coarse gray hair may be found. In some
cases, these different parts of the head may need to be treated with separate timming and formulas.
Level 3
Level 5
Levels 1/2
GRAY / STEAL GREY
Level 7
Level 8
Level 9
GRAY / SALT-N-PEPPER HAIR
Level 10
Level 11
WHITE / NON-PIGMENTED
SPECIAL SUGGESTIONS FOR COVERING STUBBORN RESISTANT WHITE AND GREY HAIR:
We recommend beginning application by applying the coloring cream directly onto the most resistant areas first.
When working to cover 35% and higher grey/white hair, it is always important to mix a percentage of a natural
base tone together with the desired shade objective, this helps to guarantee longer lasting total grey coverage.
STANDARD EXAMPLE: Base Level 7, Objective color: 7.35:
35% grey hair: mix 3/4 parts 7.35 with 1/4 part 7.0 at a 1:1/2 ratio with 10 VOL (3%), max 20 VOL (6%) Developer.)
Minimum 10-15 minutes processing time.
50% grey hair: mix 1 part 7.35 with 1 part 7.0 at a 1:1/2 ratio with 10 VOL (3%), max 20 VOL (6%) Developer.)
Minimum 15-20 minutes processing time.
75% grey hair: mix 1/3 part 7.35 with 2/3 parts 7.0 at a 1:1/2 ratio with 10 VOL (3%), max 20 VOL (6%) Developer.)
Minimum 20-25 minutes processing time.
100% Grey Hair
100% grey hair: mix 1/4 part 7.35 with 3/4 parts 7.0 at a 1:1/2 ratio with 10 VOL (3%), max 20 VOL (6%) Developer.)
Minimum 25-30 minutes processing time.
(If your client prefers dense deep color coverage similar to that of Wella, try the above mixing ratios at a
1 to1 dilution with the developer and not 1 ½ dilution, or by applying one tone level darker)
*Minimum processing time reduced 50%
*Unstressed conditioned hair
*Superior lift & deposit
BASIC TIMMING:
Time table based on medium-fine hair diameter, average porosity, central European hair type.
AVERAGE MINIMUM PROCESSING TIMES:
0 – 10%
GREY HAIR
MINIMUM 10 ’- 15’ MINUTES
10 – 30% GREY HAIR
MINIMUM 15’ - 20’ MINUTES
30 – 50% GREY HAIR
MINIMUM 20’ - 25’ MINUTES
50 – 100% GREY HAIR
MINIMUM 25’ - 30’ MINUTES
IMPORTANT
*Depending on the hair’s resistance
the minimum processing times may
need to be extended 10 / 15 minutes
(Example:
Asian/Arabic; extend processing times
10 / 15 Minutes longer than minimums)
ULTRA-LIGHT BLONDES, Lift 2 - 3 Levels
MINIMUM 20’ - 25’ MINUTES
ULTRA-LIGHT BLONDES, Lift 3 - 4 Levels
MINIMUM 25’ - 35’ MINUTES
*It is recommended to always visually check and verify the intensity of color deposit and lift before removing color.
•
An important variable is the hair texture. Our time table is calculated for medium - fine hair
thickness and strand diameter.
If you are working with thicker strands, you will need to add to the processing time and/or mix with a
1 : 1 mixing ratio for more color pigment concentration to fill the thicker strands to the correct intensity.
If you have thin strands, you will need far less pigment and may keep to minimum processing times
and go as high as a 1 : 2 mixing ratio depending on percentage of grey and intended tone/shade intensity
and or transparency desired.
•
Level selection is also very important when dealing with hair texture, density and porosity:
A Level 4 shade will make very fine-porous hair appear to be closer to levels 2 - 3 and thicker larger
strand dimensions could appear closer to a levels 5 - 6.
HAIR DENSITY AND RESISTANCE:
Time table based on the three main DNA groups.
TIMMING VARIATIONS ACCORDING TO DNA GROUPS:
Time table based on medium-fine hair diameter, average porosity, central European hair type.
NATURAL COLORS OF THE HAIR
Defining the color of the hair is, from an optical point of view, very complex. Obviously, hair colors differ
greatly from one person to another. But what is not so obvious is the fact that there are a large number of
hair strands on each individual's head, which are of different colors. Even a single fiber can contain up to
ten different colors grouped together, to give the illusion of a color. And the tone of the tips of a hair, often,
is not equal to the tone next to the scalp. To complicate matters further, capillary fibers have a dominant
color and recessive subtones (reflections) that can only be seen in certain lights.
ANALYSIS OF THE NATURAL COLOR OF THE HAIR
The natural color of the hair will provide the base with which the artificial color will react. Consequently, a
correct analysis of the natural hair color is crucial to achieve the desired result. Hair color is determined
genetically. It is produced by a pigment called Melanin, found primarily in the Cortex, occasionally in the
Marrow and never in the Cuticle. According to the nature of the pigment, its quantity and distribution in
the hair, various colors can be obtained.
THE 3 TYPES OF MELANINE
Eumelanin - Blue
Pheomelanin - Yellow
Tricosiderin - Red (characteristic of natural red hair rich in iron, giving reddish color to hair).
Eumelanin
Tricosiderin
A
B
C
D
Pheomelanin
E
F
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Tricosiderin the red pigmentation is the hardest
pigmentation to lift and eliminate. As shown in
the chart according to a persons heratige (DNA)
the percentages of Trichosiderin vari from ethnic
group to ethnic group.
The darker the hair the greater the concentrations
of Eumelinin and Tricosiderin the lighter the hair
the greater the concentration of Pheomelanin.
Eumelanin is the easiest to breakdown and
lighten. Tricosiderin takes the longest and is
the most difficult to breakdown and lighten.
Pheomelanin is greatly influenced by Tricosiderin
therefore the orange stage is by far the longest
and most difficult to overcome.
TRICHOSIDERIN CONCENTRATIONS
A: ASIAN
B: SOUTH AMERICAN / ARABIC
C: AFRICAN
D: MEDITERRANEAN
E: CENTRAL EUROPEAN
F: NORTH EUROPEAN
MINIMUM PROCESSING TIMES
STANDARD LIFT & DEPOSIT undertone nutralization
A: (Generally processing times 25 - 30 minutes)
B: (Generally processing times 25 - 30 minutes)
C: (Generally processing times 15 - 20 minutes)
D: (Generally processing times 15 - 20 minutes)
E: (Generally processing times 15 - 20 minutes)
F: (Generally processing times 10 - 15 minutes)
TRICHOSIDERIN CONCENTRATIONS
A: ASIAN
B: SOUTH AMERICAN / ARABIC
C: AFRICAN
D: MEDITERRANEAN
E: CENTRAL EUROPEAN
F: NORTH EUROPEAN
ULTRA LIFT & DEPOSIT undertone nutralization
A: (Generally processing times 35 - 45 minutes)
B: (Generally processing times 30 - 35 minutes)
C: (Generally processing times 25 - 30 minutes)
D: (Generally processing times 20 - 25 minutes)
E: (Generally processing times 20 - 25 minutes)
F: (Generally processing times 15 - 20 minutes)
NOTE:
THESE TIMES TABLES ARE BASED ON HAIR WITH A LESS THAN 30% GRAY CONTENT.
FOR HAIR WITH 30%-50% GRAY THE GENERAL RULE IS ADD 5 MINUTES
FOR HAIR WITH 60%-80% GRAY THE GENERAL RULE IS ADD 10 MINUTES
FOR HAIR WITH 80%-100% GRAY THE GENERAL RULE IS ADD 15 MINUTES
PROGRESSIVE HUE & TONE INTENSITY:
Time table based on medium-fine hair diameter, average porosity, central European hair type
with less than 30% gray, cosmetic color level applied is the same level of original base color.
BIG PROFESSIONAL SUPER SONIC COLOR will remain true to level during longer processing times.
The hair color will not become a darker level; the hair will have a higher concentration of pigment development for a more intensive hue and highlight. (Example: Reds will be more intensive, gold will seem more
golden and concentrated, while ash tones will go more matte.) Higher pigment density less transparency.
10-15 min.
15-20 min.
20-25 min.
25-30 min.
Hair color is a manifestation of light reflecting off of melanin, or pigment molecules, in the cortex of the hair.
The longer you leave the color to process, more of the secondary (TERTIARY) pigments oxidize and develop intensifying tone and hue. Tone can make the hair appear levels darker or lighter depending on the
tonality of the tonality or hue. Yellow or golden reflects can make the level seem lighter or brighter. Blue,
and most brown reflects can make the level seem darker, while red hues and highlights can make the level
seem more intense, richer, not necessarily darker or lighter.
DEVELOPER VOLUMES HUE & TONE INTENSITY:
Peroxide is used in hair color to activate the ammonia, oxidize the development of cosmetic pigmentation
and deteriorate the melanin found in the hair, lightening the hair to higher levels.
The higher the peroxide volume the more lift of melanin levels, and in consequence the more development
of red melanin (Tricosiderin) as the resulting undertone.
In blended color systems the calibrations of pigments is calculated to counteract and balance the development of red pigment created by the lifting of the melanin levels and as rule a specific peroxide volume
is recommended to be used with the specific shade blend.
LEVEL 5 NATURAL BROWN 5.0
10 VOL. (3 %)
20 VOL. (6 %)
30 VOL. (9 %)
40 VOL. (12 %)
COVERS GRAY HAIR, COLOR DEPOSIT AND TONE-ON-TONE IDEAL FOR DARKER SHADES.
RED MELANIN (TRICOSIDERIN) MAY DEVELOPE TO A LIMITED DEGREE DEPENDING ON ETHNIC ORIGINS.
COVERS GRAY HAIR AND LIGHTENS 1-2 LEVELS
RED MELANIN (TRICOSIDERIN) DEVELOPES TO A HIGHER DEGREE DEPENDING ON ETHNIC ORIGINS.
COVERS GRAY HAIR AND LIGHTENS 2-3 LEVELS
RED MELANIN (TRICOSIDERIN) DEVELOPES AND CAN BECOME VERY SIGNIFICANT DEPENDING ON ETHNIC ORIGINS.
COVERS GRAY HAIR AND LIGHTENS 3-4 LEVELS
RED MELANIN (TRICOSIDERIN) IS DEVELOPED TO A VERY HIGH DEGREE DEPENDING ON ETHNIC ORIGINS.
NOTE:
It is recomended to work with lower developer volumes (10 - max 20 Volume) when working with Natural,
Ash, Cool, Blue Base and Matte shades.
NOTE:
Working with higher volume deveopers (30 - 40 Volume) can be very useful for intensifying Warm, Golden
and Red shades.
LEVEL 5 RED BROWN 5.6
LEVEL 5.0
NATURAL
BROWN
LEVEL 5 GOLDEN BROWN 5.3
LEVEL 5.0
NATURAL
BROWN
10 Volume 20 Volume 30 Volume 40 Volume
10 Volume 20 Volume 30 Volume 40 Volume
SUPER LIGHTENERS HIGH LIFT BLONDES:
Time tables based on medium-fine hair diameter, average porosity, central European hair type.
High-lift, ultra light shades require more time to lift and deposit. BIG PRO. SUPER SONIC COLOR
under ‘normal conditions' a good rule of thumb is to cut-in-half normal processing times. You can
add an extra 5-10 minutes when a particular occasion requires extra lift and lightening. (Strand
testing is recommended)
A gentle heat source such as Climazone can be used to speed up development time but the hair should
always be allowed to cool down completely before emulsitying and rinsing.
MIXING RATIO 1:2 Ultra Light Blondes
BASIC FULL HEAD VIRGIN APPLICATION
Section the hair into 4 sections and subsection verticle sections approx. 1/2 inch diameter (2 CM).
Starting approx. 1 inche (3.5 CM) from the scalp apply the colour to mid lengths and ends and
develop for 10/15 minutes.
Apply to the roots and process for another 10/15 minutes or untill desired lift and deposit is achieved.
Ideal for creating toned natural looking blondes on base level 7 and upwards.
On retouching color services to refresh faded ends add water to remaining tint after regrowth application and work through the hair for 5/10 minutes. You do not mix fresh tint to do this.
High lift tints are always used with 30 Volume 9% or 40 Volume 12% BIG OXY BUTTER Developers
BIG PRO. SUPER LIGHTENERS are not recommended for use on high percentages of grey hair. High lift
tints contain extra pigments to cancel yellow and if used with lower volumes of peroxide or on grey hair
these tones may be too intense.
A strand test is recommended, depending on DNA origins lifting results may be considerably different
from one group to the next. Plus, it is important to determine if there are residues of prior cosmetic
pigmentation.
COLOR TIP
We do not recommend adding bleach cream or powder into the mixture to increase lightening. This will
enable the tint to lift more but it will completely alter the tonning capacity.
It is perfectly safe to use 12% peroxide with the BIG PRO. SUPER LIGHTENERS on the scalp. The technologies used in our base are designed to protect and cool the scalp during development time.
Do not cover with a cap when on scalp processing.
11.11
Ultra Light Ash Blonde
Biondo Ultra Chiaro Cenere
Rubio Ultra Claro Ceniza
Louro Ultra Claro Prateado
11.0
Ultra Light Nat. Blonde
Biondo Ultra Chiaro Nat.
Rubio Ultra Claro Nat.
Louro Ultra Claro Nat.
11.2
Ultra Light Irisé Blonde
Biondo Ultra Chiaro Irisé
Rubio Ultra Claro Irisé
Louro Ultra Claro Irisé
11.13
Ultra Light Beige Blonde
Biondo Ultra Chiaro Beige
Rubio Ultra Claro Beige
Louro Ultra Claro Beige
BASIC TIMMING:
Time table based on medium-fine hair diameter, average porosity, central European hair type.
SUPER-LIFT-LIGHT BLONDES, Lift 2 - 3 Levels MINIMUM 20’ - 25’ MINUTES
SUPER-LIFT-LIGHT BLONDES, Lift 3 - 4 Levels MINIMUM 25’ - 35’ MINUTES
NOTE: (The Ultra Light Super Lighteners can lift up to 5 levels and more when using heat).
SUPER PERFORMANCE WHEN USING FOILS OR HIGHLITENING PAPERS
BIG PRO SUPER LIGHTENERS can lift up to 5 levels on natural hair, base level 7 and higher and also lift
up to 3 levels on tinted hair base level 7 and higher, when using high-lightening foils or papers and applying
a gentle heat source, without damaging the hairs structure! (Darker levels will lift less and may develop brassy
undertones in the majority of situations).
You can create beautiful caramel blonde highlights on levels 4, 5, and 6 using the super lift Ultra-Light
Blondes and 40 Volume (12%) BIG OXY BUTTER Developer. (NOTE: best to use high-lightening foils and
a gentle heat source). TIP: On really difficult to lift hair we recomend adding 20 grams of BIG CREAM
BLEACH to the mixture for added lifting power.
NOTE: We recommend performing a strand test prior to a full head application or highlightening application to
gage undertone development and the possible need to supplement toning capacities with the addition of Violet,
Ash or Blue Boosters.
INTERMIXING COLORS
All of the BIG PRO. SUPER SONIC Colors can be mixed together to personalise shades, can
be mixed with the booster concentrates and direct color baths as well, they can also be mixed
with varying volumes of developers at various mixing ratios to create unlimited color effects.
BIG PRO. SUPER SONIC Colors are created by top international colorists for professionals
that know and understand color!
COLOR EXPRESSION:
Most contemporary clients are more receptive to cosmetic hair color that looks as natural as
possible. Our cosmetic color shades, processing technologies, mixing ratios and timing flexibilities allow more creative and expressive freedom to the color technician to deepen and intensify pigmentation as well as create soft natural transparent demi-color brightening.
Multi-Chromatic Color Transparency are the key words to natural looking cosmetic hair color.
BIG PRO COLOR is formulated and callibrated to create Multi-Chromatic Translucent color
results when following the basic coloring rules and guidlines, mixing ratios and processing
times.
SPECIALIZING COLOR MIXING AND TIMMING METHODS
Starting with the example point of reference; base level and tone (7.0 Natural Light Brown)
Medium-Fine Central European hair.
Color mixing and developing is a question of mathmatics, timing and mixing ratios can vary
depending on desired pigment density or transparency; for a more dense, pigmentmented,
intense, richer shade and tone (similar to Wella), extend the processing time 5 to10 minutes
and concentrate the mixing ratio down to a 1 : 1 (equal parts) ratio.
For soft translucent, color brightening or highlighting try a mixing ratio of 1 : 2 (one part color
cream to 2 parts developer) using minimal process times according to hair type. The only limit
is the colorists imagination creativity and color knowlege skills.
COLOR BOOSTERS-CORRECTORS
The 5 BIG PROFESSIONALSUPER SONIC COLOR boosters are;
66R Red, 22V Violet, 88B Blue, 33G Gold, 11A Ash.
These color boosters have oxidising bases which means they can be added into all the colors
to enhance or subdue the tone. Because they oxidise with the tint they become part of the host
color giving high resistance to fading.
The boosters can also be used alone with 10 Volume (3%) BIG OXY BUTTER Developer to
create fashion tones on bleached hair, (we recommend a test strand to determine the final
result when doing this) and can be used to intensify dark natural hair levels with the rich and
intensive highlights.
The Booster shades can also be mixed together to create a variety of fashion colors!
66 R
Red
Rosso
Rojo
Vermelho
BIG COLOR DIRECT
22 V
Violet
Viola
Violeta
Violeta
11 A
Ash
Cenere
Ceniza
Cinza
88 B
Blue
Blu
Azul
Azul
33 G
Gold
Oro
Oro
Ouro
Big Color Direct is an alkaline direct color conditioning system. The collection has ten
concentrated shades. Depending on the amount of color and technique used these luscious,
joyous shades can produce amazing colors, change or intensify the natural base tone, create
avant-garde effects or gentle natural pastels and highlights.
When you want to lighten the BIG Color Direct color shades or create a pastel tone, mix the color
with the 000.Pastel White toner a small amount at a time in a bowl until the desired shade is
achieved and to darken, intensify, deepen or create more matte color tones gradually add
.111Black to the mixture until the desired richness is achieved.
HOW TO USE BIG COLOR DIRECT
Demi-Permanent direct pigmentation: apply the BIG Color Direct on clean and dry hair for more
intensive results or moist hair for softer results. Spread color evenly throughout hair and comb
color through with wide-tooth comb. Cover with plastic cap and place under a gentle heat
source. Processing time 10–15 minutes depending on desired density and or intensity. After
processing time, rinse hair thoroughly with lukewarm water.
Note! Wear protective gloves and avoid spreading color onto skin. Remove jewelry and cover
clothing. Use a dark-colored towel.
Dying pre-lightened hair treated with BIG CREAM BLEACH or BIG BLUE BLEACH: apply the BIG
Color Direct on clean and dry hair for more intensive results or moist hair for softer results, leave
it on for 2 to 10 minutes while constantly checking for desired shade intensity.
Pre-pigmentation: choose a BIG Color Direct shade according to the color you want to obtain
and apply it on lengths and ends; comb to remove the excess product then directly apply the BIG
PRO Color shade desired.
After a color service with BIG Color Direct, spray our Post-Color Color Fix pH3.5 color stabilizer
and style.
Our Post-Color Color Fix pH3.5 color stabilizer returns hair and scalp back to their
natural pH, closes hair cuticles and keeps hair color from fading, leaving hair luminous and soft.
18-iron 22-violet 33-gold 77-brown 66-red 62-fucsia 44-copper 01-metal 111-black 000-pastel
PRIMARY & TERTIARY COLOR POSITIONING
COLOR LEVEL FAMILIES
11 Extra Lightening Blondes
10 Lightest Blonde
9 Very Light Blonde
8 Light Blonde
7 Medium Blonde
6 Dark Blonde
5 Lightest Brown (Transition
Level between Dark Blonde
and Light Brown)
4 Light Medium Brown
3 Medium Dark Brown
* (to create Darkest Neutral
Brown, level 2, Mix 45g 3.0
+ 15g 1.10
1 Darkest Black Brown
.1
.3
.31
.11
.88
.13
.0
.20
.22
.33
.4
.44
.66
.6
.2
.5
USE THE COLOR WHEEL AS A GUIDE TO THE LAW OF COLOR.
Colors opposite each other are known as complementary or counteracting
colors.
To control or correct any color, simply add the complementary color.
To control orange, add blue, to control yellow, add violet, and to control gold
(yellow-orange), add blue-violet. These rules are called the Law of Color.
The Color Wheel shows the positioning of the color numbering system.
The BIG PRO permanent color palette contains:
35 shades of permanent color
4 Neutral Natural Brown and Brown Blonde base shades
(Neutrals give complete natural warm gray coverage and suppliments gray coverage to all other shades.)
3.0
Darknest Chestnut
Castano Scuro
Castaño Oscuro
Louro Escuro
5.0
Light Chestnut
Castano Chiaro
Castaño Claro
Castanho Claro
7.0
Blonde
Biondo
Rubio
Louro
9.0
Very Light Blonde
Biondo Chiarissimo
Rubio Clarísimo
Louro Clarissimo
1 Blue Black (Also ideal to deepen, intensify and create darker matte shades)
(to create a level 2 Neutral Darkest Brown mix 45g 3.0 + 15g 1.10
1.10
Blue Black
Nero Blu
Negro Azul
Preto Azulado
4 Natural Ash Brown and Ash Blonde base shades
(Excellent for gray coverage and to diminish brassy tones)
4.01
Nat. Ash Chestnut
Castano Nat. Cenere
Castaño Nat. Ceniza
Castanho Nat. Prateado
6.01
Nat. Dark Ash Blonde
Biondo Scuro Nat. Cenere
Rubio Oscuro Nat. Ceniza
Louro Escuro Nat. Prateado
8.01
Nat. Light Ash Blonde
Biondo Chiaro Nat. Cenere
Rubio Claro Nat. Ceniza
Louro Claro Nat. Prateado
10.01
Nat. Platinum Ash Blonde
Biondo Platino Nat. Cenere
Rubio Platinado Nat. Ceniza
Louro Platinado Nat. Prateado
3 Intensive Ash Light Brown and Intensive Ash Blonde base shades
(Creates cool, cold, metallic shades and highlights)
5.11
Light Int. Ash Chestnut
Castano Chiaro Cenere int.
Castaño Claro Ceniza Int.
Louro Claro Prateado Int.
7.11
Intensive Ash Blonde
Biondo Cenere Intenso
Rubio Ceniza Intensos
Louro Prateado Intensos
9.11
Very Light Int. Ash Blonde
Biondo Ch.mo Cenere Intenso
Rubio Cl.mo Ceniza Intensos
Louro Cl.mo Prateado Intensos
2 Golden Blonde base shades
(Creates soft warm golden blonde shades on white hair and intensifies warmth and brightens Natural shades)
7.3
Golden Blonde
Biondo Dorato
Rubio Dorado
Louro Dourado
9.3
Very Light Golden Blonde
Biondo Chiarissimo Dorato
Rubio Clarísimo Dorado
Louro Clarissimo Dourado
2 Beige Blonde base shades
(Creates soft pearly sandy blonde shades on white hair, warms, softens and mutes Natural and Ash shades)
7.31
Beige Blonde
Biondo Beige
Rubio Beige
Louro Beige
9.31
Very Light Beige Blonde
Biondo Ch.ssimo Beige
Rubio Clarísimo Beige
Louro Clarissimo Beige
2 Tobacco Dark and Medium Blonde base shades
(Creates deep soft woody mink blonde shades on white hair, warms, intensifies and enriches Natural shades)
6.35
Tobacco Dark Blonde
Biondo Scuro Tabacco
Rubio Oscuro Tabacos
Louro Escuro Tabaco
7.35
Tobacco Blonde
Biondo Tabacco
Rubio Tabacos
Louro Tabaco
1 Bronze Chestnut Intense Brown base shade & 1 Choccolate Chestnut Medium Brown base shade
(Creates a deep metallic violet bronze brown)
(Creates rich warm chocolate purple brown)
4.45
Bronze Chestnut
Castano Bronzo
Castaño Bronce
Castanho Bronze
5.53
Choc. Light Chestnut
Castano Chiaro Ciocc.
Castaño Chocolate
Castanho Claro Choc.
2 Violet Warm Brown base shades
(One deep rich warm mahogany chestnut with violet highlights and one light-brown / dark-blonde with deep
violet highlights).
5.5
Light Mahogany Chestnut
Castano Chiaro Mogano
Castaño Claro Caoba
Castanho Claro Mogno
6.20
Dark Blonde Int. Violet
Biondo Scuro Viola Intenso
Rubio Oscuro Violeta Intensos
Louro Escuro Violeta Intensos
2 Natural Warm Red base shades
(These deep warm reds with soft blue undertones are pigment intense and can vary in highlight intensity
depending on developer volume used and the level of base melanin undertones).
6.6
Dark Red Blonde
Biondo Scuro Rosso
Rubio Oscuro Rojo
Louro Escuro Vermelho
7.6
Red Blonde
Biondo Rosso
Rubio Rojo
Louro Vermelho
NOTE: When using reds or any of the fashion colors,
it is best to add a natural shade with it to lock in color.
Just 15 or 25 grams of a natural .0 shade added to a
red color will make a big difference and help eliminate
hot roots.
2 Natural Copper Blonde base shades
(These bright golden red, bronze blonde shades can vary in highlight intensity
depending on developer volume used and the level of base melanin undertones).
7.4
Copper Blonde
Biondo Rame
Rubio Cobre
Louro Cobre
8.44
Light Blonde Intensive Copper
Biondo Chiaro Rame Intenso
Rubio Claro Cobre Intensos
Louro Claro Cobre Intensos
NOTE:
Adding in .0 shades will give the warm colors more
longevity in the hair strand.
When using this series on porous hair it is best to use
10 volume of peroxide in order to hold the red.
4 Super Lightening Ultra Blonde High-lift base shades
(Created to lift and deposit soft natural highlight tones, to intensify the shade, compensate or accentuate
warm undertones, add boosters to the mixture).
11.0
Ultra Light Nat. Blonde
Biondo Ultra Chiaro Nat.
Rubio Ultra Claro Nat.
Louro Ultra Claro Nat.
11.2
Ultra Light Irisé Blonde
Biondo Ultra Chiaro Irisé
Rubio Ultra Claro Irisé
Louro Ultra Claro Irisé
11.13
Ultra Light Beige Blonde
Biondo Ultra Chiaro Beige
Rubio Ultra Claro Beige
Louro Ultra Claro Beige
11.11
Ultra Light Ash Blonde
Biondo Ultra Chiaro Cenere
Rubio Ultra Claro Ceniza
Louro Ultra Claro Prateado
5 Oxidation Intensive Booster / Corrector base shades
(Used when the colourist wants to intensify the tone of a colour or subdue unwanted tones.)
66 R
Red
Rosso
Rojo
Vermelho
88 B
Blue
Blu
Azul
Azul
Ideal
for
Men
22 V
Violet
Viola
Violeta
Violeta
11 A
Ash
Cenere
Ceniza
Cinza
33 G
Gold
Oro
Oro
Ouro
NOTE: The correct quantity of product must be applied to the
hair. Too little product will mean insufficient lift, low color
deposit, poor or uneven coverage resulting in fade.
Applying the correct quantity ensures the product will penetrate
the hair shaft, reach the keratin chains through the reduced
peptide bonds and produce the desired lifting and depositing
action.
NOTE: Applications can be made on dry or pre-washed,
towel dried hair.
NOTE: Some resistant white hair will accept color better if the
hair is pre-washed and towel dried. This method is also
advisable when the hair is particularly resistant to color.
NOTE: YOU CAN APPLY HEAT. Apply gentle heat when extra
lift and - or deposit is required. Heat application can increase lift
and can add to the life-span of shade, hue and tone intensity.
35
SUPER
SHADES
SHADE SELECTION
BASED ON
INTERNATIONAL
SALES STATISTICS
BIG PRO SUPER SONIC COLOR FRAGRANCE FREE
We did not need to use fragrances to try to mask the ammonia content, plus
fragrances can be highly allergic causing skin-irritating reactions especially when
used in chemical color services.
BIG PROFESSIONAL SUPER SONIC Color Creams are dermatologically
tested in vitro and vivo and are certified to be non-irritating.
INTERNATIONAL BASIC COLOR APPLICATION RULES
BIG PRO COLOR is a permanent oxidation hair color. As with any oxidation hair color, to prevent
color fading and to guarantee coverage it is very important to Follow International Basic Color
Application Rules:
1. A correct analysis and evaluation of the hair’s porosity and retention capabilities, as well as
base level and undertone potential.
2. A correct color mixture corresponding to the desired result. (Strand testing is recommended)
3. A correct and consistent color application. Example: begin color application onto the most
resistant areas first. Even carefully placed coverage is essential.
4. A correct pigmentation processing time, according the hair’s natural level, undertone
compensation, percentage of grey, porosity and retention capabilities. (Apply gentle heat
when extra lift and deposit is required)
5. A correct elimination of excess coloring cream by gradually adding tepid water while
working the color mixture into a rich lather and correctly rinsing the hair with water that is not
too hot! (Very Important!) Optional: Apply Color Fix Leave-in Spray pH 3.5 while massaging
the color emulsion to bring down the pH level and close down the cuticle.
6. A correct single application of an acid balancing, low foaming, natural surfactant post-color
shampoo, always making sure the water temperature is not too high.
7. Applying the correct post-color conditioners to help neutralize the pH levels, close down
the cuticle, ending with a specific acid leave-in spray locking in the newly oxidized pigmentation.
8. And one of the most important rules is to ask the client to please wait at least 36 - 48 hours
before washing the hair after a fresh color application, using specific high-quality specific
color-care bio-pH regulating products.
(If the fore mentioned basic rules are not followed correctly there is no existing oxidation hair
color on the market that can guarantee penetrating total coverage and intense long lasting
results).
Ammonia (NH3) versus Monoethanolamine or Ethanolamine,
(C2H7NO)
Ammonia (NH3) is a compound of hydrogen and oxygen it occurs naturally. It is an important
source of nitrogen that is needed by plants and animals. Ammonia is a colorless alkaline gas with
a very distinct odor. Ammonia gas can be dissolved in water. This kind of ammonia is called liquid
ammonia or aqueous ammonia. Once exposed to open air, liquid ammonia quickly turns into a
gas. When used in hair color, approximately 1% ammonia is required to achieve the lift and deposit. Boiling point: 33.3° degrees Celsius = 91.94° Fahrenheit.
MEA, also found as Monoethanolamine or Ethanolamine, (C2H7NO) is a reactive chemical compound created by the reaction of ethylene oxide with ammonia, meaning it's an ammonia derivative, it exists in a liquid form, and has almost no odor. Is not water soluble and when used in hair
color, approximately 10% MEA is required to achieve less lift and deposit than is achieved with 1%
ammonia. Boiling point: 170,5°C degrees Celsius = 338.9° Fahrenheit.
The amount of MEA used in a particular hair color is what creates potentially negative results. The
amount of MEA in hair color varies from shade to shade. With MEA, it is not uncommon to have
6% in darker shades and over 10% in the lightest blonde shades. For ammonia, the amounts
range from 1.0% in the dark shades and up to 3.5% in the high lift shades.
Hair color is stable and inert until mixed with a developer (hydrogen peroxide, H2O2). Ammonia
and MEA are both alkalizers used in hair color that react with the developer when mixed.
Ammonia is always the safer of the two ingredients to use in hair color. Ammonia turns into a gas
and is completely removed after the service is completed. MEA leaves a residue that remains in the
hair and on the skin, and when dry it is not harmful; however, when in contact with water the residual MEA left will re-alkalize, causing fading, drying and other various disorders!
Proctor & Gamble completed a study listed on the National Institute of Health's website in Feb,
2014 which stated, "all methods show an increase in damage and irritation from MEA-based
formulations, up to 85% versus ammonia..."
Another study Copyright April 2012 from Japanese Society for Investigative Dermatology states,
"Hydrogen Peroxide and Monoethanolamine are the key causative ingredients for hair dye induced
dermatitis and hair loss."
So to conclude: MEA is not as safe to use as Ammonia. MEA requires 10 times the amount in hair
color to do a less effective job. MEA is impure, leaves residues, causes scalp dermatitis and hair
loss. MEA is a harsh chemical that is derived from ammonia, and is not more or less organic.
Ammonia has been used in hair coloring for nearly 100 years where MEA has been applied only 10
years in the market.
Ammonia is the next simplest molecular structure in nature, second only to water.
Dermatologically Tested
Clinically Verified
Ammonia Vapor Reduction
Fragrance Free
Gluten Free
SLS Free
Paraben Free
Vegan Friendly
No Animal Testing
MADE IN ITALY, MADE FOR YOU.
WWW.BIGPROFESSIONAL.IT
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