Waves: Part 1
Objectives
• Identify the parts of a wave.
• Explain how the parts of a
wave relate to wave movement.
• Describe how ocean waves
form and move.
• Classify types of waves.
I. Anatomy of a Wave
A. Waves are made
up of crests and
troughs.
B. A crest is the
highest point of a
wave.
C. A trough is the
lowest point of a
wave.
I. Wave Formation and Movement
A. Most waves form as
wind blows across the
water’s surface and
transfers energy to the
water.
B. As the energy moves
through the water, so
do the waves. But the
water itself stays
behind, rising and
falling in circular
movements.
II. Specifics of Wave Movement
C. Waves not only come in different sizes
but also travel at different speeds. Wave
speed is calculated by using the following
equation:
wa velength (m)
= wave speed (m/s)
wa ve perio d (s)
II. Specifics of Wave Movement,
continued
D. Wave period is the time between the
passage of two wave crests (or troughs) at
a fixed point.