A Short History of Photo~raphy
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1839 - 1860 Daguerreotype:
Photography began in 1839 when Louis Degueree invented the process which bears
his name. It is reverse image printed on a silver plated sheet of metal with a mirror like fmish. This kind of photograpby
was usually cased.
1954 - 1860 Ambrotype. Similar to a Daguerreotype but printed on glass with a black surface behind the glass
which gave it a positive image. These also were cased to keep the pieces together.
1959-1900 Tintype or Ferreotype appears as a positive image on a black metal background. The name tintype is
attached to it because the pictures were cut out of an iron sheet with tin shears. Multiple lens cameras were developed to
produce a dozen tintypes on one sheet of metal. Use a magnet to test whether it is a tintype.
1859 The first photograph printed on paper was the Carte-de-Visite or CDV. They are usually 2.5" by 4". They
may be full figures or head and shoulders only. They were popular until the turn of the century.
1866-1910 The Cabinet Card became popular, especially in the United States. It was a print mounted on cardboard
stock. The most popular size was 4.25" by 6.5". Stereographs also were developed during this time which were the fIrst 3D
pictures.
1880 Kodak introduced candid photography. The size of the print depended on the type of box camera. The
negative as we know it appeared. Caution! Negatives between 1889 and 1939 are on nitrocellulose. It is combustible.
1904 The first color prints appeared and were used only be professional photographers.
1935 The first amateur color film appeared.
1947 The Polaroid camera appeared with black & white film and color followed ten years later
WOMEN'S fashions
Bodice
1840 long and tight, pointed in front,fastening in back, some padding in bodice by 1848.
1853 front fastening, buttons, jacket style, flare over skirt.
1860 front buttons, pointed or round waists, military trim.
1866 waistline slightly raised.
1869 trim with ruffles, large buttons. bodice extends over hips.
1875 ruffles around neckline & down front.
1878 large round or oval buttons.
1883 tight waistcoat effect.
1890 fastening obscured, natural waistline.
1893 ruffles over shoulder, gathers in bodice.
1897 asymmetrical, horizontal drapery, blouse-like fullness.
190 I pouched front with wider waistbands.
1908 vertical trim, small square or round dickey effect, waistline slightly raised.
Neckline 1840 wide, shallow horizontal.
L848 high broad stand up collar.
1860 narrow round collar some V necks.
1866 lace or ribbon tie, round or pointed collar
1869 ruffles on V neck.
1878 high neckline with Low standing collar.
1883 fewer Laceties.
1893 high collar to chin with bow on side of neck.
1904 lower collar in summer.
1908 high collar to chin or round or square to collarbone.
Sleeves 1840 long, tight with tight oversleeve on upper arm.
1848 long or 3/4 sleeve with bell shape over white undersleeve.
1853 some full gathered at wristbands.
1860 variety of styles
1866 narrower coat sleeve.
1869 wide coat sleeve with cuff, moderate bell shape with trim or ruffle.
1875 narrower with cuff trim.
1883 trim at wrist.
1890 tight sleeve full at shoulder, 3/4 length.
1898 "leg of mutton" sleeve shape on upper arm, tight below, ruffles.
1897 flaring over hand.
1901 more fullness in lower arm.
1908 tight and plain.
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Skirt
1840 long, straight.
1853 wider, gathered and pleated, hoop adopted by 1860 some looped to expose underskirt.
1866 broad A line over hoop.
1869 trimmed apron-like overskirt with large bustle, trimmed underskirt.
1875 bustle smaller, trains common.
1878 straight from hip to floor.
1883 overskirt returns, apron shaped.
1890 stiff columnar effect.
1893 A line smoother over hips, some trim at knee.
1901 flared below knee.
1904 more fullness.
1908 slim, straight, no gathers, feet show.
Accessories 1840 fmgerless gloves, gold watches on chain, caps, bonnets, ribbon bracelets.
1853 ornamental hair jewelry.
1860 shawls, hair nets, wide belts, elaborate earrings & brooches.
1860 black velvet neck ribbon with brooch or charm, large locket & crosses, jet beads, matching earrings &
necklaces.
1878 large button earrings, large hair combs.
1878 fans, parasols.
1883 muffs,jewelry.
1890 small earrings, watch pinned to bosom, large fans & parasols.
1893 feather boas.
1897 small decorative combs high on back of head visible from front.
Hair 1840 large comb, center part throughout century, close to head, long ringlets.
1853 wide above the ears & drooping over ears.
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1860 brains over ears, short ringlets.
1866 pulled back above ears, piled high on top.
1869 addition of false hair, large hair combs, some hair curled on forehead, hair brushed at crown & streaming
down back.
1875 frizzed at forehead (Marcel process has been invented), braided high at back.
1889 frizzed in front, bun in back.
1890 bun on top of head.
1893 curled around face,bun at back.
1899 less frizzing, drawn into back bun.
1904 some width around face, coiled in back.
1908 center parts less common, puffed out at side to support big hats.
General clues for the 19th centuzy:
Women wore loose dress or 'wrapper' during pregnancy.
Black crepe on collars & cuffs indicated mourning. Widows wore all black but could add white accessories toward
end of mourning period. Men might wear a black arm band to indicate mourning.
People who posed for their pictures in studios usually wore their best, most fashionable clothing.
Most photographers put their company name and city on the printed photos.
Clues for candid pictures:
Early photography taken with box cameras needed sunlight so pictures were taken outside. Consider the
background of the picture. Is there grass, snow, or leaves on the ground? Are there leaves on the trees? Are there flowers?
Can you identify them enough to tell the time of year?
If there are buildings, look at the architecture. If you think you know the house but it looks wrong consider what it
would look like with a porch added or removed. The same thing for additions on the sides. Is there pavement showing.
What other buildings are in the background?
Automobiles in pictures may be a false clue. The car could have been 20 years old when the picture was taken.
If you have a collection of pictures, which ones were taken in the same place? Are they the same people but of a
different year or of different people in the same year? It may help to determine the occasion and the date.
Before digital photography there were numbers and dates on the back of photos. Consecutive numbers indicate the
same roll of film. The date was the date it was developed and could be months after the film was exposed depending on
how often the camera was used.
MEN'S fashions
Coats 1840 extra long, narrow sleeves.
1850 generous cut, vests.
1860 long, overlarge sack coats.
1870 shorter & closer fitting, narrower, buttoned at top button only to show vest.
1880 short sacks, narrow sleeves high on shoulder.
1890 narrow, small coats buttoned all the way.
S1.tirts. 1840 for dress- tailored white cotton, narrow sleeves, small collar turned up under tie,
for work - colors & patterns or smocks.
1850 collar turned over tie for dress - starched bib front which was purchased and could be removed,
for work - colors and patterns.
1860 collars folded down, white & stripes & plaids.
1870 made without collars, collars purchased separately, white, blue, red, black, gray stripe or small plaids.
1880 white is predominant again.
1890 white shirt, trim fitted collar, becoming very high and stiff.
Neckties
1840 dark colored tied in a horizontal bowknot.
1850 Two inch width, half bow.
1860 narrow.
1878 wide & tied in a loose knot, ends overlap, striped.
1880 variety of ties wide and soft.
1890 black bow tie, narrow, black or patterned ties.
Trousers
1840 fly front becomes common.
1850 wide pant leg.
1860 wide, long at the heel, suspenders common
1880 narrow with no creases.
Accessories 1880 fur hats & coats.
Hair and Beards 1840 ear-length, parted high at side, clean shaven except for fringe beard.
1850 clean shaven, oiled hair long on top, side part wave at center of forehead, collar length.
1860 full beards and chin whiskers, hair at ear level in back.
1890 short haircuts, large mustaches.
CIDLDREN'S Fashions
Clothing resembled adult's during 19th and early 20th century.
Babies both sexes wore long dresses.
Toddlers much the same as babies, but shortened for more movement.
Boys short pants, getting longer with age, knickers in 20th century.
Girls dresses became longer relative to age.
Hair girls hair was parted in center, often with bows or braids; boys parted on one side.
Sources: "Uncovering Your Ancestry Through Family Photographs" by Maureen Taylor, Better Books 2000
"Fashionable Folks Hairstyles 1840 - 1900" by Maureen Taylor, Picture Perfect Press 2009
Various articles from 'Family Tree Magazine' and 'Family Chronicle'.
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