Welsh Mountain Ponies on the Black Mountain
Secrets of
the mountains
Welsh Poppy
Llyn-y-Fan Fach
History and legend are all around you on this scenic trail
Croeso – welcome to the first European
Geopark in Wales! The western half of the
Brecon Beacons National Park is known as
Fforest Fawr Geopark (literally, large forest)
and it is undoubtedly a national treasure.
It encompasses mountain and moorland,
woods and meadows, towns and villages,
lakes and rivers. Most of the settlements
have been here a long, long time, so when
you take this trail, you are never far away
from a dramatic moment in history.
This is best enjoyed as a drive-and-walk
trail! Trek up to Garn Goch and we promise
you won’t regret seeing that magnficent
panorama. Otherwise, it’s only light pottering
around in villages and in Llandovery, with its
cafes, crafts and castle for your pleasure.
Carmarthenshire Driving Trails
Llandovery
Of Garn Goch, poet Nigel Jenkins wrote: ‘a warrior leading
his horse could come panting through it at any moment’
Garn Goch
Red Kite
A40
Bre
con
0
A4
Llanwrda
9
06
A4
TY
WI
Myddfai
Usk Reservoir
Llangadog
Felindre
A4
0
Red Kite
Feeding Centre
A4
Bethlehem
06
9
Llanddeusant
Garn Goch
Llandeilo
>
MO
CK
BLA
an
ROUTE INFORMATION
Length: approx. 45 miles
The roads on this trail are narrow and winding in
places, so please take great care. There are passingplaces but reversing around bends may be required!
Cyclists need to be prepared for hilly terrain and
country roads which have no designated cycle
paths. Terrain can be rugged and suitable footwear
and clothing should be worn when walking.
Please follow the Countryside Code at all times.
69
A40
nam
Bry
Ffair-fach
UNTAIN
Llyn-y-fan Fach
WHAT’S in a name?
All those Llans! A settlement
that had a church and an
enclosure around it was a
Llan, often dedicated to a
saint. Llanddeusant is actually
dedicated to two saints,
because it’s claimed that
Saint David and Saint Teilo
met here.
>
Map data © OpenStreetMap contributors. images: Crown Copyright (2015) Visit Wales; Discover Carmarthenshire.com; Amanda Balmain/istock/Thinkstock.com; Giorgio Morara /Shutterstock.com
2
A48
Llandovery
Begin at Ffair-fach, just south of Llandeilo,
where the battlements of Dinefwr castle
look out over the lush Tywi valley. Take the
road to Bethlehem and soon you’ll pass a
turning for Castell Carreg Cennen and
the village of Trap. Photographers and
artists love that moody fortress on its
mighty crag, and one day you must climb
up and survey the view. But this time, to
explore an even more ancient site, head
straight on, enjoying the loops of the
Tywi on your left, and when you reach the
village of Bethlehem, follow the Ancient
Monument signs right for Garn Goch.
Park near the information board and
Carreg Cennen
walk to the top – leaving at least an hour
for the experience, and ensuring you have
good footwear.
On Garn Goch (literally, the red cairn) you’ll
see the remains of massive earthworks,
stone walls and ditches that made up two
distinct hill forts. They were settlements
where hundreds of people would have lived
during the Iron Age, and what a marvellous
place from which to view 360 degrees of
surrounding countryside. There are at least
six entrances to the larger of the two forts,
Caer Fawr. What kind of lives did these
people live here, over two thousand years
ago? Were they peaceable folk, or warriors?
What happened when the Romans came?
Could there have been a massacre of the
native tribe on such a scale that the place
forever after was remembered for the red
blood spilt there, on Garn Goch?
Back at Bethlehem village (where you
might like to post cards if it’s nearing
Christmas), head straight on following signs
for Llangadog. The hamlet you come to
Llandovery
Carmarthen Fan
first is Felindre Sawdde with its common
designated for unenclosed grazing since
the 13th century. Rights were granted to
the people of Llangadog by the Bishop of St
David’s. Felindre (which had a mill or melin)
would have been a bustling place with its
own annual fair. At the junction, turn right
onto the A4069. In front of you is a wooded
hill which was a Norman motte and bailey,
the ditch once having been a proper moat.
Welsh prince Maelgwyn ap Rhys captured
the castle from the Normans in 1203.
Following brown signs showing red kites
in flight, drive 3 miles out of Llangadog and
turn left for Llanddeusant. At the Red Kite
Feeding Centre you’ll see these splendid
Usk reservoir
birds at close quarters. Then, back on the
same road (to Trecastle) you can enjoy a
couple of miles of open mountain, offering
grand views of Carmarthen Fan. There’s a
famous legend linked to the lake nestled in
these mountains, Llyn-y-fan Fach. The
lady who emerged from its depths had
magical healing powers. For a waterside
picnic spot, continue to a left turning to the
Usk reservoir, where you can also fish, cycle
or walk, as the fancy takes you.
Retrace your route towards the Red Kite
Feeding Centre but before you go all the way
back to the crossroads, take a turning right
at Talsarn chapel (marked Gwydre Cottage on
a brown sign) and make your way carefully
along this winding road to Myddfai. The
views are wonderful but only the passengers
should take their eyes off the road.
The village of Myddfai is as picturesque
as country villages can be and has an
ancient history to go with it. Your starting
point should be Myddfai Community Hall
& Visitor Centre at Tŷ Talcen. Linger over
your refreshments and reflect on all those
things which make Myddfai, past and
present, noteworthy. There are many trails
to choose from, so put on your walking
boots. You might be hoping to spot a Prince
of Wales, or you may be content to enjoy
the wild flowers and foliage that still grow
on the hedgerows and which once kept
the princes of Wales in good health. The
renowned Physicians of Myddfai made
healing remedies from these plants and were
employed by the princes of Deheubarth to
look after the royal families. The last of the
line, surgeon John Jones, died in 1739.
From Myddfai, take the road to the right
of the church and head for Llandovery.
This country town is a hub for walkers, bikers,
naturalists and historians. A giant steel statue
of Llywelyn ap Gruffydd Fychan towers over
the car park. This haunting sculpture by twins
Toby and Gideon Petersen brings us again
to a prince, or at least, the people’s choice
as Prince of Wales: that was Owain Glyndŵr.
He led an attack on the invading English and
almost triumphed. Almost, but not without
terrible suffering and tragedy. Llywelyn ap
Gruffydd Fychan was known to support
Owain Glyndŵr and therefore was a good
choice of scapegoat. Here in 1401, Henry IV
and his son – who would be Henry V – had
Llywelyn brutally killed as an example, to
warn others. He was a wealthy landowner, a
figurehead, so the assassination struck fear
in the hearts of Glyndŵr’s followers, just as
it was meant to do. The empty helmet and
cloak, all life taken from them, is a dramatic
form of storytelling.
Pick up the A40 so as to return to Llandeilo.