GOLDEN TRIANGLE and BEYOND Time Travel: the history of a millennium in a nutshell India, a country of over a billion population, one of the top ten fastest growing tourism destinations worldwide, and with the capital as a starting point for most travelers, the Golden Triangle circuit of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur is on most travel itineraries. Yet these cities still offer something to the intrepid traveler. They have witnessed the sweep of religions and tribes, the rise and fall of empires and colonies, political intrigues and romances, and the birth of a democracy. Nobody is entirely sure why this is called the Golden Triangle. While the 3 cities do form a triangle when plotted on a map, the golden seems to be interpreted as either ‘royal’ (following in the wake of emperors) or ‘must-visit’ (like the Golden Rule!). Here at Travel Scope, we see the play of elements; the waters of the Yamuna river, the stone and earth of the monuments that have withstood the test of time, the fiery zeal of rulers who sought immortality, and the winds of Time. Perhaps golden represents the alchemy of history itself! At Travel Scope, we are eager to retrace the alchemy of a millennium, through art, literature, economy, architecture, food, stories and folklore to convey an essence of what India is today. TRAVELSCOPE INDIA email - [email protected] | web - www.travelscopeindia.com MONUMENTS AT A GLANCE TRIP AT A GLANCE DELHI AGRA AGRA Ranthambore JAIPUR Welcome to Delhi! Your time travel will start the minute you fly over Delhi airspace, broad tar ribbons and sinuous rivers snake their way through a tapestry of concrete and forest. The Delhi airport is a beehive of international and domestic traffic, as it links people and businesses to the world and is an epitome of a technological, modern-day India. As you step out of the airport, a Travel Scope representative will greet you and escort you to your hotel. On the ride, Delhi’s incongruities take centrestage; high rises of glass and steel representing every kind of tertiary business jostle with itinerant gypsy settlements selling everything from earthenware to venetian blinds, decrepit black-and-yellow taxis compete with the CNG green-and-yellow auto rickshaws, broad freeways teeming with cars of every size are juxtaposed against a backdrop of the metro, the new arteries of the city. Start the day with a Travel Scope guide on a walk of New Delhi, a city that largely owes its present-day avatar to a man named Edwin Lutyens, a man best known for adapting traditional architecture to contemporary styles. Head towards the India Gate, a monument commemorating the deaths of over 70,000 Indian soldiers in the British Forces during the World War I. Older British buildings that were used as power hubs house today’s Parliament and Secretariat. For those who are interested in understanding the Independence Struggle better, Travel Scope also offers a 1857 Mutiny Walk, that marks the first revolt of a soldier in the British Army, whose act is said to have catalyzed a nation into fighting for home rule. Walk down Connaught Place, the business district of the British era, which serves much the same purpose today. We will continue to trace the Mughal Empire with an Old Delhi Walk-and-CycleRickshaw ride along the Red Fort, the Jama Masjid towards the bustling markets of Chandni Chowk. There is a lot to be said about a country, as diverse in its faiths as India, and as tolerant in its attitudes towards each. While today’s media is often ignited by religious intolerance, the architecture of our cities tells a very different narrative. Walking down Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi, one can palpably experience the sacred yet secular way of life that is so typical of India. TRAVEL SCOPE RECOMMENDS CRAFTS MUSEUM No history is complete without an understanding of the art, and late morning you can make your way to the Crafts Museum, celebrating living traditional crafts and skilled industries rather than dead, old or rare objects. The Museum showcases handmade activities and crafts, from folk and tribal cults, from textiles to earthenware, and even host performances of song and dance. Lunch at Café Lota will allow you to partake a rich tradition of Indian cooking, through regional specialties, sometimes with a contemporary twist. HUMAYUN’S TOMB / QUTAB MINAR WITH AN ART HISTORIAN If you want to step back a little further into time, Travel Scope can also have an art historian lead you to the Emperor Humayun’s tomb, OR the prayer tower of Qutab Minar, some of the Mughal Empire monuments, among others that will feature most prominently along the Golden triangle circuit. DELHI’S MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY ART For the artsy, Travel scope can also arrange for an expert to help you explore Delhi’s Contemporary and Modern Art. There are several sections of Delhi that have gained renown as art hubs: Hauz Khas, Lado Sarai and Shahapur Jat, among others, and several artists and art collectors have private galleries here. You are welcome to tour them at your own leisure, or to take an art historian along to better help you understand and appreciate the nuances of the art on display. NIZAMUDDIN DARGAH If it is a Thursday, you may also be able to visit the Nizamuddin Dargah, the mausoleum of a famous Sufi saint, Nizamuddin Auliya (1238 - 1325 CE), as also the poet Amir Khusro and a Mughal princess, Jehan Ara Begum. Sound Byte: the song Arziyan, from the movie Delhi 6 (2009) composed by A. R. Rahman is dedicated to Nizamuddin Auliya. TEA TASTING If you think there’s nothing more to a cuppa than a handful of leaves thrown in boiling water, perhaps you could give tea tasting a chance! After all, the tea leaf was responsible for pioneering trade links, driving global commerce, establishing colonies, encouraging piracy, sparking off a revolution, while finding curative uses for everything from love bites to aging! Join Mr Mittal, a tea sommelier who has founded his own tea company, on an encyclopedic journey of tea. SPICE TRAIL For the culinary-keen, Travel Scope offers a Spice Trail, a walk through the spice markets, where you can smell, sample, haggle and buy the most exotic spices, and understand the spice trade and how it influenced the colonial legacy of the East. DELHI ZOO WALK While India is better known for its national sanctuaries and tiger reserves, a zoo of over 130 species of animals, in a 176 acre, 16th Century citadel, may be just the thing for kids after a day of monuments. It may later help them identify these animals in the wild, and could be their first sighting of the Royal Bengal Tiger among others. HOME COOKING / COOKING WITH 5 STAR HOTEL CHEFS SESSIONS For a more local flavor (literally!), Travel Scope would be happy to organize cooking sessions in Delhi, where you could smell, taste and use some of the ingredients that you will find in the cuisine as you travel through the country, and learn the rich legacy of spices! You can choose between a home cooking experience, where you can engage with your host and prepare some simple, homely fare. Or you could choose to learn from the best in the hotel industry with our 5 star hotel chefs who will showcase Indian specialties. ASTROLOGY For the curious and the spiritual, India’s modernity has not dispelled faith in astrological sciences, and it still forms an important part of daily lives from births and deaths, and from marriages to business ties. Indulge in the mysticism that is India, and we promise you, even the staunchest disbelievers will find something inexplicable. YOGA WITH DR. ALKA Yoga, comprises of techniques that lead to harmony between the inner self and the eternal environment, between thought and action, between the individual and the world. While the practice has spread far and wide, Yoga in India would be an enriching experience for all age groups. Dr Alka Tyagi, a practitioner with over eight years experience, can offer personalized Yoga sessions to guide you through various postures, breathing techniques and their philosophical essence. CULTURAL EVENING OF MUSIC AND DANCE Cultural Evening of music and dance: There’s more to Indian music than Bollywood and the ‘sitar’, and you can end your day on a melodious note with a specially organized musical evening. Storytelling as a art has also been passed down through dance forms like Bharatnatyam and Kathak. Travel Scope would be happy to arrange one-on-one sessions with dancers of both forms, where performances will be interspersed with interpretations, so that you can delve into the art and the narrative behind it. PHOTOGRAPHY TOURS Walk the crowded streets of Chandni Chowk with a professional photographer and try to capture the sights of the Walled City of Shahjanabad. A place like no other, Chandni Chowk offers numerous opportunities to photograph some rare moments; from a rickshaw running an obstacle course to customers sampling the street food of Delhi, from curious, playful children in the streets to old, wizened inhabitants quietly watching the world go by, from busy shoppers to reverent worshippers, from tiny, roadside stores selling spices and condiments, to bustling, brightly lit up shops trinkets and jewellery! Capture the essence of India, pulsating, vibrant and colourful. ART APPRECIATION TOURS Delhi’s vibrant art scene well-represents the city’s traditional and modern influences, where villages like Hauz Khas, Lado Sarai, Shahpur Jat rapidly developed into bustling and eclectic districts full of designer boutiques and art galleries with a vibrant Bohemian charm, showcasing the latest trends in fashion and art. During our art appreciation tours, you could experience a wide range of activities: from a visit to the National Gallery of Modern Art to viewing private art collections, from interactions with private collectors to meetings with experts of contemporary art. Welcome to Agra! The Mughal trail continues in Agra, a city whose origins can be traced back to the days of the Mahabharata (the epic poem of Great India). Agra, part of the Delhi Sultanate was captured by a Persian-Turkic emperor, made into a capital and later gained prominence under Mughal emperors like Akbar, Jehangir and Shahjahan. Agra has been immortalized ever since, by Taj Mahal – the magnificent mausoleum, which the emperor Shahjahan had built for his queen, Mumtaz and India’s own jewel in the list of 7 Wonders of the Modern World. Travel Scope recommends that you head there early morning, to watch the sunrise over the Taj Mahal and avoid the bustling tourist queues to enter the monument. Instead let our storyteller guide weaves tales of Agra and the mausoleum, as also the romance between Shahjahan and Mumtaz. Literature Byte: The Taj of Agra by Joseph Horatio Chant (1837 – 1928) is a poem that narrates the story behind the construction of the Taj Mahal. Literature Byte: For those seeking a more local literary flavor Nazeer Akbarabadi (1735– 1830) is one of the most famous Urdu poets and ghazal writers. Akbarabadi’s poems talk of the city of Agra in decline. Literature Byte (For Children): Birbal was Akbar’s favourite advisor and a very wise man in Akbar’s court. Every child in India grows up listening to the wisdom of Akbar and Birbal stories. We recommend a story-time session with extracts from these extremely humorous stories, which are bound to leave you and your children spellbound. (Akbar Birbal Story App or Akbar Birbal stories) Follow the road less traveled with Itmad-ul-Daulah, a marble tomb built for the grandfather of Mumtaz (the queen interred at the Taj Mahal) also known as Baby Taj, is said to have inspired the Taj Mahal. For the grand finale (before you think that Mughal architecture is all about tombs), let us guide you to Fatehpur Sikri, a city capital built by Emperor Akbar to honour a Sufi saint, Salim Chisti, which is perhaps the best preserved vestige of the Mughal Empire. The city complex includes palaces, pools, public audience halls, mosques and other places of worship, and (you guessed it) tombs! TRAVEL SCOPE RECOMMENDS MEETING WITH INLAY ARTISANS In the vein of most Mughal architecture, the Taj Mahal’s intricate beauty lies in the inlay work; where semi precious stones are set into the marble floors to create floral motifs. If interested, Travel Scope can organize a Meeting with Inlay Artisans to see how the craftsmanship has continued through the ages. RED TAJ MAHAL While India is most famous for the Taj Mahal, there are several other monuments that it inspired. The Red Taj in Agra, a smaller, red sandstone replica sans inlay and mosaic work serves as a tomb for a Dutch soldier and trader John William Hessing, and was built by his wife, Ann Hessing, turning the legend of the Taj Mahal on its head. In 1792, the 13year-old Hessing landed in Ceylon, later joined the Dutch East India Company’s army, fought many battles in India, and eventually died as a part of the Maratha forces defending the Agra Fort against the British. At its entrance, are two Persian inscriptions— an epitaph and a chronogram: the former expresses Ann Hessing’s grief and the latter marks the year of his death. AGRA OLD CITY WALK While the Taj Mahal steals the thunder in Agra, there are several other beautiful monuments that have their own story to tell. Start the Agra Old City Walk at the Red Fort – a UNESCO World Heritage site with a Mughal history. Then take a tonga, a horsecart past the railway station with its distinctly European architecture, and the Jama Masjid district surrounded by Old Agra’s bazaars and fine architecture. Here you can hone your bargaining skills on everything from zardozi embroidery to inlaid marble objects. MEHTAB BAGH BY SUNSET Watch the sunset at the Mehtab Bagh – which legend claims was to be site of a Black Taj that the emperor Shah Jahan wished to build for himself, facing the monument he’d built for his love. Instead the Mehtab Bagh or the ‘moonlit garden’ is a four garden layout, typical of Mughal constructions worldwide – with beautiful flowering plants, pools and fountains. Welcome to Jaipur! If there is an aspect of India that neither the Mughal empires nor the British Era could wipe out, it was the regal lifestyles of the chieftains and princes from the feudal times, and nowhere is it more in evidence than in Rajasthan. Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan state, is known fondly as the ‘pink city’ as most buildings are made of rosy sandstone. Established by Sawai Jai Singh II, the ruler of Amber, thus named to signify a ‘city of victory’, Jaipur’s bustling bazaars and labyrinthine bylanes whisper the history of 4 eras; the Rajput kingdoms, the Mughal Empire, the British Rule and modern times. Info Byte: the Rajputs were the Hindu warrior clans who ruled princely states across the northern stretches of India, were major obstacles to the dominion of Mughal empire and they continued to rule little pockets of land even during the British Era. For sightseers, an Old City Walk navigates across a city where the history still echoes across time, and where tradition marries modernity. The City Palace exhibits royal collections of miniature paintings, armour, royal garments, textiles, and artefacts. You can then visit the Amer Fort, the citadel of the clan who later became the rulers of Jaipur and the Jantar Mantar observatory built in the early 1700s by Sawai Jai Singh II, Jaipur’s ruler and a keen astronomer that bears witness to Central Asia’s rich legacy of astronomy with instruments that can forecast the weather even today! Continue on to the ornate Hawa Mahal, the Palace of the Winds, Jaipur’s most distinctive landmark, and then run amok in the Jaipur Street Market, where a smorgasbord of delights and crafts await. A drive through the Rajasthan’s countryside will take you to Ramgarh Fort, an important place of pilgrimage built in the late 11th century that today has some of the finest polo grounds in the country. TRAVEL SCOPE RECOMMENDS THE STORY OF JAIPUR Over a trek to the nearby Amer fort from where one can see the entire city of Jaipur, hear the Story of Jaipur, a tale of forts, palaces, architectural marvels and valiant characters, who in their own way, bear testimony to the glory that Jaipur is. Follow this with a hearty picnic breakfast. HOT-AIR BALLOON For those who want even more bird-eye views of the city, you can take to the air in a HotAir Balloon and watch as a tapestry of desert, cities and villages unfolds beneath. A truly splendid way to take in the sights – especially the looks of delight on the faces of the people below! ELEPHANT ENCOUNTERS: DERA AMER No feudal experience is complete without elephants – the maharajahs preferred mode of conveyance. Visit Dera Amer, a rustic camp located at the foothills of the Aravalli range surrounded by wilderness, where you can get up close and personal with the pachyderms. You can enjoy an Elephant Ride or splash around as you bathe the elephants. For children, they can go wild painting the flanks of the elephant! AMBASSADOR VINTAGE CAR RIDE Later in the day, land-lubbers, elephant-giddy or vintage car lovers can choose to witness the sound and light show at Amer Fort in a restored Ambassador, India’s first locally manufactured car and once a status symbol for former Indian politicians. DERA MANDAWA: RAJASTHANI COOKING EXPERIENCE, KITE FLYING, BOARD GAMES For those who want to partake more, a hands-on Rajasthani cooking experience at Dera Mandawa awaits, where a trip to the nearby market for ingredients, a lesson in regional specialties is followed by a scrumptious, regal lunch spread. The passionate couple, who have converted this property into a heritage hotel, will be your hosts throughout the cooking session and meal. For the playful at heart, Dera Mandawa also offers Kite Flying sessions, where one can try on the Rajasthani turbans and scarves and learn Char Bhar, a rural Indian game, played with a board drawn into the sand, or on stone, cloth or paper and with counters of pebbles, wood, cotton or even camel and goat droppings! BLOCK PRINTING WORKSHOP The technique of printing from wooden blocks onto paper and textile, originated in China and spread across Asia. It may have inspired the first engraved woodcuts that lead to the printing press. This technique is still widely used in India, mostly on textiles, and Travel Scope can offer you a block-printing workshop to learn the art and skill. MEET A GEMOLOGIST Apart from the spices and the tea, India was also at the heart of a roaring trade in precious stones, like diamonds and pearls among others. The Mughal Empire was lured by the promise of these precious stones, and they worked huge quantities of stones into their monuments, much to the delight of future generations of plunderers and thieves. To know more about the craft and the mythology behind the stones, Travel Scope can arrange for a meeting with a gemologist. WOMEN THROUGH THE AGES As with most patriarchal histories, the unheard voice is that of the females. For those interested in knowing more about Women through the Ages, Travel Scope would recommend an interactive session with Malashri Lal, an academic and writer, who has written and taught extensively in the field of Gender Studies. Here you can debate at length about issues from female foeticide to sex ratios, from infant marriages to widowhood, from political participation to social roles of the fairer sex. SHOPPING No travel experience is complete without shopping, and the colourful bazaars of India have something to offer even the most impatient of men! With specialties like local handicrafts, textiles, gems, silver jewelry, blue pottery and carpets, Jaipur’s streets can rival Ali Baba’s cave of wonders. Travel Scope can help you navigate your way across street hawkers and chic boutiques, with a personal shopping expert in search of those perfect souvenirs. BEYOND THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE RAMATHRA FORT Named in honour of Lord Rama, who legend claims camped in the vicinity on his southward journey to Sri Lanka, the Ramathra Fort commands views over the a rugged plateau, farmlands and the mirror lake of Kalisil. Rustic luxury with a royal welcome at a feudal palace, village walks, crocodile boat rides and bird watching, nestled in a green valley that lies between tiger habitats. SAMODE PALACE For a touch of the regal, Samode Palace a 475-year-old palace has hosted royalty, celebrities, artists and discerning travellers. The romance of Mughal and Indian architecture, traditional hospitality with modern luxury, as you pass your time exploring the countryside or indulging your senses; Samode Palace is a delectable wonderland. + Farm visit and meal – Samode Palace also arranges a visit to a local farm, where your host will expose you to the agriculture techniques and technologies, giving you an invaluable glimpse into rural India. This will be followed by a humble, yet heartening meal with the family. RANTHAMBORE NATIONAL PARK Ranthambore National Park, the former hunting ground of Maharajas, with crumbling fort ramparts interspersed by villages, with numerous watering holes, is today the regal empire of a clan of tigers, made famous by National Geographic’s coverage. Conserving the tiger has also helped provide a refuge for a variety of other mammals like fox, jackals, nilgai (blue bulls), spotted deer as also other avifauna, and offers an unmissable safari experience. TALABGAON CASTLE Tucked away into the rural landscape of Rajasthan, Talabgaon Castle, with sky-lit courtyards, vast lawns and delicately sculpted water cascades and Rajasthani-style architecture, offers a rare warmth and hospitality. Explore the countryside on foot, bicycle or horseback, as you catch glimpses of village-life and the indigenous crafts. CHAMBAL SAFARI LODGE For a wildlife experience, beyond big mammals, try the Chambal Safari Lodge, that has thrived on the successful conservation of the gharial, a native, fish-eating crocodile with a peculiar clock-shaped snout. The Chambal Safari Lodge is a heritage plantation surrounded by farmland, defined by conservation ideals and gracious hospitality, and offers a great insight into the lore of a family and the wildlife around. AMANBAGH, ALWAR Just 90 minutes away from Jaipur, the Amanbagh Hotel is an oasis retreat in the rugged outcrops of the Aravalli mountain range. Rajasthan’s dramatic history surrounds Amanbagh, which is influenced by the Mughal style of architecture. Discover the remnants of an ancient empire in the picturesque city of Alwar such as the 17thcentury fort and temple of Ajabgarh, and venture along centuries-old paths around Somsagar Lake.
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