The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health San Francisco State University Department of Health Education Culminating Experience May 14, 2007 Savita Malik, MPH (c) Picture Citation: www.english.people.com.cn/200505/12/images/c3.jpg modified by Ezekiel Robles in Photoshop; Fair and Lovely containers The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 2 Table of Contents Abstract 3 Introduction 4 Purpose of Study 5 Methods 5 Literature Review Indian Historical Context The Impact of Colonialism on Women Internalized Racism, Classism and the Link to Colonialism Whiteness and “Colorism” as a Theoretical Framework 7 7 9 10 13 Findings The Media Ideal of Beauty The Beauty Industry and the Economic Viability of “Fairness Creams” The Physical, Emotional and Mental Health Aspects of Skin Lightening 14 14 16 17 Solutions 20 Author Reflections 22 References 24 Appendices 27 Picture Citation: Researcher’s hand modified in Photoshop by Ezekiel Robles The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 3 Abstract Skin whitening creams do big business among women of Indian decent and have serious mental, physical and emotional health implications for those who use these products. Whiteness theory and the color complex leading to studies of “colorism” provide a theoretical backdrop by which to understand some of the root causes of the desire for fair skin. Study methodology includes media analysis, a literature review with an examination of historical context and interviews with key informants. The purpose of this study is three fold. First, the aim is to show the impact of whiteness on Indian women who use skin lightening techniques. Second, this study examines the negative impact of such techniques both mentally and physically constituting a large public health issue within this population. Finally, this study explores ways of mitigating the negative impact that advertising and the use of skin lightening techniques has on Indian women in the hopes that the public health issue can be reduced. The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 4 Introduction According to a 2006 edition of Harper’s Magazine, the number of new skin-whitening products that have been introduced to Asian and Pacific markets exceeds one-hundred and eighty-nine since 2002 (“Events about Race”). L’Oreal recently signed a major Hindi film star, Aishwariya Rai to be their South Asian spokesperson and while she is fair skinned, she promotes skin bleaching creams because “everyone wants to experiment with skin color, hair, everything” (Oprah, 2005). Skin whitening creams do big business in Hong Kong, the Philippines, Japan, India and Malaysia and yet most have been proven to cause great physical harm to those who use them (Jones, 2004). As authors Goon and Craven argue, “The subject of skin whitening is an image” and this image has an economic end. Lightening creams account for 40% of all beauty products sold in India (Goon and Craven, 2003). Skin whitening practices are rooted in historical and colonial contexts and are gender nuanced (Goon and Craven, 2003) The skin whitening creams themselves lead to severe physical deformities (from ingredients such as mercury and hydroquinone which are known to burn skin) to feelings of inadequacy if one’s natural skin tone is perceived as “dark” (Saifee, 2005). In addition to physical health consequences, the desire for “whiteness” has major psychosocial implications including lower self-confidence levels as well as perceptions of inferiority among Indian women (Saifee, 2005; “India Debates” 2007). The embedded desire for fair skin plays out among the Indian community in the form of a color bias, which prizes lighter skin over darker skin. Sonali Johnson, in the Journal of Health Management says that “India's historical preoccupation with fair skin is in fact racism and sexism expressed through various cultural and historical mediums and reinforced by the contemporary beauty industry (2002).” This color The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 5 discrepancy, which is perpetuated through advertising and the widespread availability of whitening creams, has received much attention from women’s rights groups in India as well as the rest of the world. This phenomenon is not simply limited to Indian women; many cultures experience some form of colorism in their daily lives (Jones, 2004). This study limits itself to Indian women as the researcher herself identifies strongly with roots in India and the struggles of trying to find place in the United States which is still dominated by a white majority. Purpose The purpose of this study is three fold. First, the aim is to show the impact of whiteness on Indian women who use skin lightening techniques. Second, this study examines the negative impact of such techniques both mentally and physically constituting a large public health issue within this population. Finally, this study explores ways of mitigating the negative impact that advertising and the use of skin lightening techniques has on Indian women in the hopes that the public health issue consequences. Key Questions include: 1) What are some reasons why Indian culture favors fair skin over dark skin? 2) What are the effects of internalized racism, colonialism and class difference on the perceptions of Indian women in relation to dark skin tone? 3) What are some of the gender specific standards that dictate beauty as a fair skin ideal and what are ways to combat those standards? Methods The methods used to conduct this study include a literature review; an examination of the historical context that places idealizes a fair skin tone, an analysis of the impact of media and three key informant interviews with practitioners in various aspects of work with Indian women. The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 6 Literature Review and Historical Context Current literature on skin whitening primarily deals with the direct physical health impacts of the creams on skin. Very little research has been done specific to the Indian and Indian American experience with such practices and thus cross cultural connections were made to highlight the extent of the problem. Literature reviewed included journal articles, theoretical papers on whiteness and colorism as well as newspaper and magazine articles that documented the current struggles of women’s groups against these products. In addition, India’s rich history and propensity for colonist invasion played an important role in shaping the images of women today. For this reason, the historical significance of the rule by the British specifically, is incorporated into this study of literature and media. Media Analysis An analysis of the media helped to shape the external factors that dictate standards of beauty. Print resources, video clips and magazine advertisements lent insight into the images that women get on a daily basis. Matrimonial advertisements were also included in this section as marriage is still seen by heterosexual Indian families as a key indicator of status and privilege for women. The experience of bloggers on specific websites, also add a personal perspective to the issue of skin whitening. Key Informants Key informants lent credibility and insight into the experiences of Indian women. As Indian women themselves, they brought a personal aspect to the study as well as a professional understanding of larger portions of Indian populations. The significant dearth of information made the interviews with these three women crucial in depicting a more human side to a The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 7 theoretical frame. Interviews were conducted by telephone and by email over the span of approximately two months. The conversations were transcribed and condensed versions appear as Appendices. Literature Review Indian Historical Context History in India contains a myriad of influences from all over the world. From Alexander the Great’s Greek roots to the Mughal empire and Aryan conquerors, Indian culture has a varied past. While these cultural forces made lasting impacts on the people and the structures in India, one of the most pronounced is British colonization. Parts of India were colonized by the Portuguese, Dutch, French and Danish also. However, the 200 year rule by the British once trade markets opened up, deeply affected Indian psyche (Dirks, 2004). During the 19th century, British rule swept over the subcontinent. Leaders upheld previous Mughal customs and traditions for the first part of their dominance over India. They found that the early Brahman headed model of society (what is known today as the caste system) as well as the Mughal ideals of land distribution and administration fell in line with a developing British capitalist economy. However, in 1757, the East India Company captured Calcutta, starting a wave of countrywide changes. Between 1757 and 1857, the Company absorbed roughly 2/3 of the land mass of South Asia in a large scale imperialist expansion (Dirks, 2004) European commerce and industry fueled economic ventures abroad and a more ethnocentric vision of India began (Leonard, 1997). In 1901, H.H. Risley commissioned an all India Census using caste as a primary category. The British used this census to argue the importance of caste which became an important method of classification. In Risley’s words, “The principle of Indian caste is to be The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 8 sought in the antipathy of the higher race for the lower, of the fair-skinned Aryan for the Black Dravidian.” (Prashad, 2000) Fair skin color and race became a basis for caste difference and religious differences were seen as supportive of the entire system. The Census was used to determine where caste groups mobilized, to support the use of segregated land and quotas for various non-Brahmin peoples and to control electoral representation, appointments to government jobs as well as entry to educational institutions (Dirks, 2004). One of the East India Company’s promises was to educate the “natives” of India. Western literature was touted as superior to Eastern texts and English became the language of the educated. The ideal was to create “a class of persons, Indian in blood and colour, but English in taste, in opinion, in morals and in intellect.” Once India became a full fledged British colony in 1857, Indians attended British run schools and even held offices in the British Raj (which was the colonial government in India) (Leonard, 1997). While many Indians argue that life was good under the British Raj, racism and discrimination against locals infiltrated all aspects of life. Indians remained at the “subaltern” (subordinate) level in the British army and never promoted to the rank of captain. Entrance into the British Indian administration (government level positions) required passing a test that was only administered in England itself. At the beginning of the colonial period, only 12 of the available 900 positions were held by Indians. The numbers did not improve even as the availability of positions increased to almost 2000 (Liddle & Joshi, 1985, Leonard, 1997). There was little investment in India’s infrastructure, no push toward industrialization for the rural areas and the welfare of the Indian people seemed secondary. British money appeared in the economy when costs were low and returns on investments were immediate. The British built roads, railroads and irrigation canals, but left many of the larger public health issues such as The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 9 sanitation systems or public works unchanged. The government supported only a few schools and the majority of the educated population went to missionary or Indian educator run institutions. The national language became English and people began feeling that British services surpassed Indian run ones (Chakravarty, 1989; Leonard, 1997). The legacy of colonialism perpetuated a national identity of subordinate Indians which still today expresses itself through images of “whiteness” as superior to “darkness (Chakravarty, 1989).” The impact of colonialism on women The colonial legacy in India directly shapes the way in which Indian women see themselves in a global economy. While the appearances of the British government seemed liberal in scope, women were oppressed under their rule in several ways (Liddle and Joshi, 1985). Prior to independence, female representation in Parliament was less than 1%. Albeit slow progress, by 1996, representation increased to almost 7% in the legislative body (United Nations Economic and Social Commission on Asia and the Pacific, n.d.). Aside from the political realm, women during the time of the British Raj were subjected to imperialist British law that restricted their freedoms and rights in the marital home. Reinstatement of conjugal rights allowed a man to sue a woman for failing to fulfill her “sexual obligations” in the marriage. Women, who did not consummate their marriages, were sent back to their parents, giving them a way out of an unhappy marriage. The influence of the British put the power and control over women back in the hands of their husbands, giving them legal recourse against their wives and perpetuating patriarchal structures (Liddle and Joshi, 1985). In addition, the argument that the colonizers were mostly men had drastic impacts on women. The British Army in India provided Indian prostitutes for the white soldiers in their military ranks. Women were subjected to invasive medical exams, registration and were given The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 10 accommodations so that they could “service the soldiers.” The rights of the women were not accounted for and there were several messages sent from one army general to another when sexually transmitted diseases were contracted that the soldiers were “victims of the Indian prostitutes.” Repeatedly, women became victimized and objectified under the British Rule. As authors Liddle and Joshi state, “The impact of foreign domination is an important factor in women’s subordination, both historically and in the present (18)” Institutions of colonization rely on access to resources, mobilization, political power and subjugation of indigenous women, which are all historically male-dominated structures. Shailushi Baxi-Richie, a non-profit writing consultant and activist notes, “Women have been seen as a commodity that have been traded by men. Wives and daughters have been a currency traded between men. If you are a light-skinned woman, you are more likely to attract more power or money in a man (personal communication, April 20, 2007).” Indian women therefore, experienced a greater oppression through the British rule than men, and are dealing with the long term implications of their objectification (Kanuha, 2004). Internalized racism, classism and the link to colonialism Fair skin within Indian society is linked to class and privilege. Fairer skinned people (namely the British upper class) were not exposed to the sweltering Indian summer heat. The redevelopment of class barriers by the British called attention to social privilege, access to and exclusion from resources and opportunities deeming the lighter complexion to be the dominant force. Class and skin tone therefore have played a vital role in the organization of economic, political and social power (Dirks, 2004). Skin color also affects women more than men. The affects of skin color in terms of beauty appear to be stronger for females than males, regardless of racial or cultural background (Sahay and Prian, 1997; Badruddoja, 2005). In addition, the The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 11 model for female beauty is often based on a “white woman” model. The lighter skinned woman is thought to be more beautiful (Badruddoja, 2005). Internalized racism within Indian society shows strong links with the notion of a color complex. Among African-American populations, the color complex refers to lighter skinned Blacks rejecting Blacks who are darker (Russell, Wilson & Hall, 1992). This complex reveals itself in a variety of situations from work environments to social situations. This phenomenon within the Indian community dates back to agrarian society when Indigenous people could erase the stigma of dark skin by marrying their colonizers (Goon and Craven, 2003; Jones, 2004). The intermarriage increased the social status and class standing of darker skinned individuals leading to a gain of privilege (Kanhua, 2004). As Vanessa Jones of the Boston Globe notes, “The color complex is the legacy of a jumble of issues, colonialism, class, and a Hollywood culture that exports a white-skinned, blond-haired ideal.” (2004). One very distinct example of the complex reveals itself through matrimonial advertisements. The leading Indian newspapers as well as the ethnic weeklies in the United States contain ads of people looking for mates. One perusal of a newspaper targeting Indians living in the Untied States, India Abroad, explores the depth of the color lines that influence relationships and ultimately marriage. Five advertisements on the front page have skin color designations ranging from “wheatish” to “very fair.” Most of the ads on the following pages mirror those found on the front page (2007). The ads undoubtedly reflect a preference for light-colored skin and show the same trend when looking at ads posted by men. In pulling up the front page of the advertisements in which men are seeking a bride, the first ad that appears states the following requirements in a potential mate: “Contact me for more details I am working in a Pharma company and looking for a girl The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 12 who is not only fair by face but also by thoughts (India Abroad, 2007).” Such advertising depicts women as objects by which skin tone is the first way in which they are judged. Self perception of fair skin affects confidence levels of Indian women. Roksana Badruddoja, sociologist at Rutgers University, conducted a study in which she asked participants to rate their ability to marry as a consequence of their skin tone. She found that the lighter the skin tone or perceived skin tone of the individual, the higher their self-esteem and perception of his or her marriage ability (2005). Smitha Radhakrishnan, a sociologist who studies women in the upwardly mobile information technology sector of India concurs. She reveals, ….skin color is still one of the fundamental characteristics of woman, taken into consideration before her education, professional status or personality. [One of her study participants said] “When people are describing me, they would still say that ‘Neethy is of wheatish complexion and a bit plump.’ Only after that might they mention, ‘she’s a project manager with a masters’ degree.’” So, like race/racial distinction in the US and elsewhere, skin color prejudices exist and probably still affect especially a woman’s life chances in important ways (especially with regard to marriage) (personal communication, March 3, 2007). In a study done among South Asian Canadian women, the desire to be lighter skinned proved more prevalent among the darker skinned participants. In addition, participants with light complexions had the highest level of body satisfaction (Sahay and Piran, 1997). Racism has become a part of the Indian psyche. The reality is that an overwhelmingly brown nation looks down on those that are dark skinned. Indian anthropologists say the preference is ancient, carved into the culture by waves of light-skinned invaders, most recently the British that left natives feeling inferior (McPhate, 2005). The levels of internalized racism filter down into the language as well. The Hindi term for the British invaders is “gora” which literally translates to “white”. Within India, the word “gora” is revered, expressed through song and film as interchangeable with the word for beauty. The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 13 Whiteness and “Colorism” as a Theoretical Framework Central to whiteness theory is the idea that racial categories exist and “shape the lives of people differently within existing inequalities of power and wealth.” (Giroux, 1997) Theorists argue that whiteness is not a biological classification but a social construction which provides material and symbolic privilege to whites and those who pass as white (Thompson, 2001). Whiteness functions as a marker of power and privilege which in turn, dictates the realities of racial experience for people of color (Warren, 2003). Waves of lighter skinned conquerors have reset the standard for attractiveness and as a result, white privilege has benefited the dominant populations at both a physical and psychological level (Fuller, 2006). Examples of this include conceptions of beauty or intelligence that are both tied to whiteness or fair skin and also explicitly exclude brownness or blackness (Thompson, 2001). Taking the whiteness theory one step further, many Indians in America find the “white is right” attitude prevalent during crucial years. Bandana Purkayastha, Associate Professor at the University of Connecticut, conducted a study on how Indian Americans negotiate their ethnicity in the United States. She notes that while many of her participants see an increase in darker skinned models and media images, they still experienced a feeling of being outside the white normative framework (Purkaystha, 2005). Several participants mentioned that they spent considerable time trying to “clean their faces” to become a lighter shade (33). For women specifically, the desire to be “white” flows into their relationships with other people of color as well as the white majority. Study trends included feelings of racism and being an outsider, not fitting into existing racial categories and feelings of racial marginalization as a result (Purkaystha, 2005). The face of color tends to stand out when contrasted with a face that has a marked absence of color (Warren, 2003). The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 14 During a 2003 presentation at Stanford University, Jennifer Hochschild, a Harvard professor, made the claim that skin color, rather than race, may be a better indicator of status in the United States. “Across races,” she said, “the darker a person’s skin color, the lower he or is likely to be on any scale of what ever is broadly perceived to be desirable in the United States.” (Assisi, 2004). People are treated according to their skin tone; a field which is becoming known as colorism. Colorism was largely imposed on people of color by white colonists, but has become internalized within communities as well (Agayamitra, 2006).This tendency to behave toward members of a racial group based on the shade or tone of their skin has emotional and social implications. Spike Lee’s film, School Daze, explicitly depicts the struggle between light-skinned girls and dark-skinned girls. One memorable scene shows the two groups facing off, calling each other “tar baby” and “wanna-be white (1988).” The images in the media depict a color complex that crosses cultural boundaries causing a widespread global phenomenon (Purkaystha, 2005; Agayamitra, 2006). Within Indian communities, the major female actors in Bollywood (the film industry in India), for the most part, are not representative of the average Indian woman. Aishwariya Rai, Kareena Kapoor and Preity Zinta, some of the biggest names in the industry today have extremely fair skin and two out of the three have naturally blue-green eyes (McPhate, 2005). The implication is that fair skin and light eyes are the representatives of women in India, when the majority of the population both in India and abroad, do not share these characteristics. Findings The media ideal of beauty In early 2006, Hindustan Lever Limited, the parent company which produces the popular skin lightening cream Fair and Lovely, produced a series of television advertisements targeting The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 15 dark skinned women. One of the most notable (and thus controversial) depicts a dark skinned woman and her father. The father complains to his wife in Hindi “Kash hame ek beta hota.” Which roughly translates to “Wish we had a son” The daughter overhears this, uses the skin lightening cream and the final sequences show her landing a good paying job as an air hostess and treating her parents to a cup of coffee (Ray, 2003; Lestikow, 2003). This is one of many advertisements that further perpetuate both a sexist and colorist view of the way women should be. Goon and Craven argue that, “Whiteness is being sold as a cosmetic product, an ‘effect’ you can buy and put on” (2003). The advertising industry makes large amounts of money that cater directly to darker skinned women with the assumption that creams will improve their class status. One recent study of magazine advertisements in four countries, including India show that the depiction of women focuses on gender roles and beauty ideals. The study looked at ads from July 2000 to January of 2002 indicated that even in the recent past, women are still being subjected to a Eurocentric ideal of beauty and was true across all four countries studied (Mayorova and Kwan, 2003). References to matrimonial advertisements above also depict a patriarchal view of women with an emphasis on skin tone and desired education of the potential mate. Below are two examples of men seeking women from a popular internet matchmaking website. Example 1: I am a TV journalist and working in no.1 news channel of India. I want to be the most dynamic and popular news anchor of India. I want to earn a lot of money in my life through my occupation. My wife must be very fair and beautiful, who can understand and respect my feelings. Example 2: I am good and docile in nature. I am basically from very good and well settled Family with sufficing growth. I got three elder sisters and they got married and one elder brother. I am a software professional and getting exceptional package. Basically I am looking for a Girl who looks Fair and beautiful and educated in her professional (India Abroad, 2007) The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 16 The demands placed on women via internet perpetuate the notion that in order to be marriage material, you must be fair skinned. The adjective “fair” still precedes the qualifications and education of a woman, further objectifying her (Lestikow, 2003, India Abroad, 2007). The beauty industry and the economic viability of “fairness creams” Skin lightening creams do big business both in India and abroad. Creams run between Rs. 32 for a smaller tube and Rs. 70 for a larger one, which equates to between $0.75 and $1.75, making the creams extremely accessible for most Indians. Between 1998 and 2000, the number of new fairness cream brands has quadrupled and the market among those who buy these products has almost tripled in size (Sinha, 2000). The whitening cream Fair and Lovely claims to possess a customer base of 27 million Indians who consistently use their products (Karnani, 2007). The focus on Fair and Lovely comes from the domination it has over the whitening cream market. It was launched in 1978 and still holds between 50 and 70% of the skin whitening market in India. Large multinational firms such as L’Oreal and Revlon recently entered the market, yet Hindustan Lever Limited, a subsidiary of the parent company, Unilever, maintains their command both nationally and internationally (Karnani, 2007). Hindustan Lever Limited is India’s largest company delivering personal products to consumers and has the largest advertising budget at $29 million annually. It is important to note the double standard for advertising in India and in the western world. The societal norm that fair skin is coveted, allows companies such as Unilever to unabashedly promote such creams in all facets of the media. It also gives license for other companies, Godrej Consumer Products for one to take the stance that “It’s the people who decide what is more beautiful [fair skin or dark skin]. If a particular consumer believes that fair ad blemish-free skin will make her more beautiful, our FairGlow would help her get it (Challapalli, 2002).” The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 17 Interestingly, Unilever internationally owns the Dove brand, which recently launched its Campaign for Real Beauty in European and United States Markets (Campaign for Real Beauty, 2006).This campaign plays into a market that is beginning to reject media ideals of beauty and even has scientific studies about how women see themselves in ten different countries around the world (Etcoff et. al, 2004). The dichotomy in how particular brands are marketed ultimately comes down to the amount of money the multinational corporation can make (Sinha, 2000; Karnani, 2007). Economically, fairness creams are marketed to the Indian community because they create a profit of almost a quarter of a million dollars per year in India alone and gives Unilever a 53% of the fairness cream industry (Challapalli, 2002). The physical, emotional and mental health aspects of skin lightening Many skin lightening creams have devastating physical health repercussions. Skin whitening products work in various ways. Some use acid to remove older, darker skin to reveal lighter skin underneath. Others inhibit melanin production; the chemical that produces the color in skin tone and contain mulberry extract, kojic acid, arbutin and hydroquinone (Fuller, 2006). Most popular bleaching creams contain 4% hydroquinone, a chemical also used in photoprocessing and rubber production that can take off the entire outer layer of the skin. Creams with these chemicals have been shown to cause itching, burning and blistering also, eventually leading to darker skin patches where the creams were administered (Abaas, 2006). There is also some evidence that the long term effects of such creams may cause skin disorders from simple irritation to skin cancer (Dussault, 2006). Cosmetic creams containing hydroquinone have been banned in both the United Kingdom and the United States and the FDA hopes to ban the remainder of the skin bleaching creams (Sinha, 2000). The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 18 Unilever’s Fair and Lovely creams do not claim to use the chemicals listed above, however, this claim leads to some doubt as to the efficacy of the cream. Dermatologists at the All India Institute of Medical Sciences question whether the creams actually change the color of skin. The discrepancy exists in that creams without the harmful substances, do not cause skin to stop the production of melanin (Sinha, 2000). The implication is that either Fair and Lovely is using one of the aforementioned chemicals, or the cream is completely ineffective and Unilever is making huge profits from selling a cream to dark skinned women that proves to be a hoax. Whitening creams pose a greater risk in countries such as India where there are no central regulations of the industry. Fair and Lovely along with other creams, soaps and lotions are often sold in corner drug stores, markets and administered by beauticians. This trend extends into the Western world as well. An informal analysis of Indian stores in California yielded a 100% availability of Fair and Lovely creams for purchase over the counter. Such creams are not considered pharmaceutical products in India or abroad and are therefore not subject to testing and regulations, making the long-term effects of these products largely unknown (Karnani, 2007). Mental and emotional health effects appear better documented. Arun Adhikari, executive director for personal products at Hindustan Lever, said “Historically Fair & Lovely's thoroughly researched advertising depicted a before and after effect". In reference to the current television advertisements, Adhikari notes, "[We] show a negative and positive situation. We are not glorifying the negative but we show how the product can lead to a transformation, with romance and a husband the pay-off" (Luce and Merchant, 2003). Their website boasts the slogan “Guaranteed fairness, guaranteed fame (HLL, 2007).” Hindustan Lever's research says 90 per cent of Indian women want to use whiteners because it is "aspirational, like losing weight". A The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 19 fair skin is, like education, regarded as a social and economic step up (Luce and Merchant, 2003). These types of messages, especially when aimed at young women who are already subjugated in Indian society have a marked negative impact on their emotional health. Fair and Lovely’s advertising campaigns are racist and perpetuate the notion that fairness is equivalent to beauty (“India Debates”, 2007). Recent research indicates that the target audience for Fair and Lovely is predominantly women between the ages of 18 and 35 years old and further evidence that school girls in the 12 to 14 year age groups widely use fairness creams (Karnani, 2007). Negative media images have a profound impact on the way young Indian women identify themselves (Dagar, 2004). Smitha Radhakrishnan reiterates the double standard between men and women which also plays a role in the emotional development of women. There is a double standard in the sense that beauty is considered to be much more important in defining women, as opposed to men. If a man is dark, this can be easily compensated by other characteristics, such as coming from a good family, having a good job, or having a pleasant nature. If a woman is dark, however, this is less easily compensated for, and in the “marriage market,” it will make her a less desirable “product.” Shailushi Baxi-Richie explains how the advertising of fairness creams has the potential to diminish self-esteem and is negative in the relentless pursuit of an ideal that is unreachable. The more women focus on things like beauty and attracting men, the more we are distracted from the things that are truly important. The less they can focus on things like sexual harassment, honor killings; the real dangers to Indian women. Given the questionable outcomes of the use of fairness creams as well as the mental and psychosocial implications on women and young girls, such products require strict regulations as well as more research into the long term health effects. In addition, corporations need to be held accountable for the images they portray, be them sexist or colorist and the social ramifications explore in more depth. The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 20 Solutions Pressure from local women’s groups has targeted the advertising industry in hopes of putting a stop to skin lightening commercials. In March and April of 2002, the All India Democratic Women’s Association (AIDWA) filed formal complaints to Hindustan Lever demanding they remove the “air hostess” ad, shortly after the campaign was launched throughout India (Leistikow, 2003). The Association, after receiving no response from Hindustan Lever, went a step further and appealed to the Human Right’s Commission which turned over the complaints to the Ministry of Information (Leistikow, 2003; All India Democratic Women’s Association, 2002). When discussing the ad campaign, Brenda Karat of AIDWA says, “In fact, it’s a highly racist campaign which equates fairness with beauty….we believe it is demeaning to women and it should be taken off the air (Ray, 2003).” The advertisement went into Parliament and was debated in committees. Rita Verma, from the dominant ruling party in India at the time, feels that there needs to be stricter monitoring of all television advertisement (Ray, 2003). The pressure from the government forced the company to pull its ads from the air; a small albeit important victory for the women’s movement. Organizations in India such as the Centre for Social Research and the Network of Women in Media, India also influence the ways in which Indian women are viewed and treated. The Centre for social research conducts a Gender Training Institute where they work to dispel myths about gender as a limiting factor and target the media as a negative force for women (Center for Social Research, n.d.). In addition, the Delhi-based Center for Advocacy and Research, an organization which monitors media accused the industry in general of "unfair trade practices" and "using a social stigma to sell their products." (Leistikow, 2003). In the summer of 2004, an organization known as SAFMA held a conference in Nepal specifically around Gender and the The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 21 Media in South Asia. Forums and sessions were held dealing with the media as seen by Pakistani, Nepali and Indian people as well as reports of work done to combat stereotypical media portrayal of women (Dagar, 2004). The Indian and Western media, both online and print sources are also countering with discussions and articles about the advertising. The Times of India online ran an article in 2003 declaring that “Dusky is lovely” discussing the need for the fashion industry to look toward darker skinned women as beautiful also (Nair, 2003). Online blogs also recently became a popular medium for expressing views on gender, colorism and the responsibility of corporations for the products they are selling. One blog, titled Sepia Mutiny, makes comments about the marketing of “Fair and Handsome” creams for men and the difficulty women face in dealing with the marketing industry. One blogger, Manish, even referenced Naomi Wolf, author of the Beauty Myth, reiterating that many women’s magazines are funded by cosmetics companies and are designed to make women insecure (Sepia Mutiny, 2005). Along with Sepia Mutiny, the business community is also taking notice of unfair advertising practices. Funny Business, a blog about business culture, debates the practices of Unilever in the United States versus India. As previously mentioned, the company owns Dove, whose “Campaign for Real Beauty” features women of all body types as beautiful going against the portrayed media versions of beauty. The blogger writes that this double standard makes the company look one way to Western audiences, and another way to Indian ones (Funny Business, 2007). The conversation about fair skin as an ideal is being challenged in a variety of forums. In addition to print and online sources, there are several radio and documentary film clips that are addressing this issue. The British Broadcasting Company aired a report on the struggle to remove Fair and Lovely advertising from the television networks in 2003 during their Women’s The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 22 Hour programming (Ray, 2003). Deepak Leslie, created a 25 minute film devoted completely to the issues surrounding fairness called “A Darker Side of Fair,” which has been screened widely and won film festival awards (2004). In addition to the longer films, filmmaker Geeta Malik, produced a shorter film called, “Not Fair, Still Lovely”, which looks at the perceptions of fair skin among second generation Indian Americans in California (2007). Such media outlets fuel the conversations about colorism and double standards for women and girls, allowing the issue to reach a wider audience and hopefully, begin to shift away from the dominant paradigm towards a more inclusive view of skin tone both within the Indian communities and externally between races. Author Reflections From childhood, I have always been acutely aware of my brown skin. I grew up in a predominantly white community in Colorado making my skin tone extremely apparent. As ingrained as fair skin being the ideal for beauty is in Indian culture, my family always had a more progressive outlook. Both my parents celebrated my dark skin (I am darker than my siblings and both my parents) and even expressed outrage at the industry that was promoting skin whitening creams. The impetus for this paper and look at the media’s role in perpetuating racist and sexist stereotypes of women came from a conversation between the women in my family. My mother, sister and I sat down after my mom saw Aishwariya Rai, a fair skinned, blue-eyed actress in India advertising fairness creams in an Indian magazine. “How can a fair skinned woman advertise a cream that she will never use?” my mother said indignantly. “It’s just wrong.” This conversation grew into a short film created by my sister that will eventually become a full-fledged documentary and this thesis paper, a look at the public health implications of an industry that favors “whiteness” as a standard of beauty. The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 23 I must also say that writing this paper provoked a certain level of emotion within me. I felt angered at the way internalized racism plagues our communities and fuels divisions among Indians. I still hear comments from acquaintances like, “Gosh, she’d be so pretty if she weren’t so dark,” and “I’m so glad I’m naturally fair.” These statements, often said nonchalantly, have a deep impact on my own psyche. I find myself wondering how a people that has been so affected by conquerors and fought so hard for its own levels of freedom can still subscribe to the ideal that many of us could never achieve. It’s an issue that requires honest conversation about our past, our perceptions of what it means to be “westernized” and the economy that we fuel in purchasing skin lightening products. I found that taking a long hard look at the impact of the media created a clearer picture of how women are objectified and denigrated by the patriarchal dominance. I look much more critically at the images I am fed and hope that there is a way to pass on this eye to the younger generations of Indian American girls. They should not have to fight structures on two levels; both the external racism they feel being minority women in a predominately white society as well as the internal racism perpetuated by older generations who have the potential to draw the color lines within Indian communities. We cannot continue to promote an ideal that is both unreasonable and demeaning to our ancestors. Picture Citation: http://www.vichy.com/gb/biwhite. The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 24 References Abaas, M. (2006) In Sudan-Pale is Beautiful but Price is High. Retrieved February 3, 2007 from http://today.reuters.com/News/CrisesArticle.aspx?storyId=L01878792. Agayamitra, S. (Speaker) (2006) Colorism Overseas and Here at Home. [Radio Broadcast]. Chicago Public Radio, Worldview Program. Retrieved May 7, 2007 from http://www.chicagopublicradio.org/programs/specials/color_complex.asp. Assisi, F. (2004) Color Complex in the South Asian Diaspora. Retrieved February 12, 2007 from http://modelminority.com/printout821.html. Badruddoja, R (2005). Color, Beauty, and Marriage: The Ivory Skin Model. South Asian Graduate Research Journal (SAGAR), 15:43-79. Campaign for Real Beauty (2006). Retrieved on March 19, 2007 from http://unilever.com/default.asp. Center for Social Research (n.d.) Gender Training Institute. Retrieved on May 3, 2007 from http://www.csrindia.org/d%20gti.htm. Chakravarty, S (1989) The Raj Syndrome: A Study of Imperial Perceptions. London: South Asia Books. Challapalli, S. (2002) All’s Fair in this Market. The Hindu Business Line. Retrieved October 8, 2006 from http://www.blonnet.com/catalyst/2002/09/05/stories/2002090500040300.htm. Dagar, R. (2004). Gender and Media: Indian Perspective. SAFMA Regional Workshop, Katmandú, Nepal. Dussault, A.M. (2006). Light Headed. The Hindu Business Line. Retrieved from http://www.blonnet.com/life/2006/02/24/stories/2006022400290400.htm on May 6, 2007. Etcoff, N., Orbach, S., Scott, J. & Agostino, H. (2004) The Real Truth About Beauty: A Global Report. Retrieved on March 31, 2007 from http://www.campaignforrealbeauty.com/uploadedfiles/dove_white_paper_final.pdf. Events about Race. (2006) Harpers Magazine. Retrieved on September 20, 2006 from http://harpers.org/Race.html Fuller, T. (2006) A Vision of Pale Beauty Carries Risks for Asia’s Women. The New York Times. The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 25 Funny Business (2007). Not Everyone Feels Lovey Dovey Towards Unilever. Retrieved April 10, 2007 from http://funnybusiness.typepad.com/funnybusiness/2007/04/not_everyone_fe.html Giroux, H.A. (1997) Racial Politics and the Pedagogy of Whiteness. In M.Hill (ed.) Whiteness. A Critical Reader. New York. New York University Press. Goon, P. and Craven, A. (2003) Whose Debt? Globalisation and Whitefacing in Asia. Intersections: Gender, History and Culture in the Asian Context. Issue 9. India Abroad (2007) Matrimonial Advertisements. Retrieved on February 18, 2007 from http://www.indiaabroad.com/ India Debates “Racist” Skin Cream Ads. (2004, July 24). British Broadcasting Company News. Retrieved on March 10, 2007 from http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/south_asia/3089495.stm Interview with Aishwariya Rai. Aired on the Oprah Winfrey Show April 25, 2005. Johnson, S. (2002). The Pot Calling the Kettle Black? Gender-specific Health Dimensions of Colour Prejudice in India . Journal of Health Management. Department of Gender and Women's Health, World Health Organization, Geneva. Jones, V. (2004). Pride or Prejudice? The Boston Globe. Kanuha, V. (2004) Colonization and Violence Against Women. Retrieved on April 6, 2007 from http://www.apiahf.org/apidvinstitute/CriticalIssues/kanuha.htm. Karnani, A. (2007) Working Paper, Doing Well by Doing Good, Case Study: Fair and Lovely Whitening Cream. Retrieved on March 1, 2007 from http://ssrn.com/abstract=958087. Lee, S. (Producer/Director) (1988). School Daze [Videotape]. United States: 40 Acres & a Mule Filmworks. Leonard, K. (1997) The South Asian Americans. London: Greenwood Press. Leslie, D. (Producer/Director) (2004). The Darker Side of Fair. [Videotape]. United States: Documentary Educational Resources. Liddle, J. & Joshi, R.(1985) Gender and Imperialism in British India. South Asian Research Vol. 5: 147-164. Luce, E. & Merchant, K. (2003) India Orders Ban on Advert Saying Fairer Equals Better for Women Financial Times. The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 26 Malik, G. (Producer/Director) (2007) Not Fair, Still Lovely. [Online video]. Retrieved from http://www.current.tv/watch/13495984?s1=topVids&list=topVidsByAssignmentGroup& k1=1%20k2=- 1&sid=13495984&fr=186. Mayorova, O. V. and Kwan, S. (2003) Gender Roles and Beauty Ideals in Visual Representations of Women: A Comparative Study Paper presented at the annual meeting of the American Sociological Association, Atlanta Hilton Hotel, Atlanta, GA Retrieved March 3, 2007 from http://www.allacademic.com/meta/p107411_index.html. McPhate, M. (2005) Modern India’s Complex Connection with Complexion. Retrieved on April 28, 2007 from http://www.newsfeeds.com/archive/rec-arts-movies-localindian/msg03992.html. Nair, V. (2003) Fair Play; Dusky is Lovely. The Times of India [Electronic version] Retrieved on May 2, 2007 from http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/cms.dll/html/uncomp/articleshow?msid=42272. Purkaystha, B. (2005) Negotiating Ethnicity: Second-Generation South Asian Americans Traverse a Transnational World. London: Rutgers University Press. Ray, T. (Host) (2003, July 4). Skin Lightening. [Radio Broadcast]. United Kingdom. British Broadcasting Company. Retrieved January 16, 2007 from http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/womanshour/2003_26_fri_02.shtml. Russell, K., Wilson, M. & Hall, R. (1992). The Color Complex. New York: Anchor Books. Sahay, S. and Piran, N. (1997). Skin-color Preferences and Body Satisfaction among South Asian-Canadian and European-Canadian Female University Students. The Journal of Social Psychology. vol. 137: 161-172. Saifee, M. (2005) From “Wheatish to Dark”: Globalization, Marriage and Skin Color Commodification. Jade Magazine [Electronic version].Retrieved on October 1, 2006 from www.jademagazine.com/59iss_saifeer.html. Sepia Mutiny (2007). The Blacker the Berry. Retrieved March 1, 2007 from http://www.sepiamutiny.com/sepia/archives/002460.html Sinha, S. (2000) Fair and Growing. India Today [Electronic version]. Retrieved on April 15, 2007 from http://www.india-today.com/itoday/20001204/business.shtml. Thompson, A. (2001) Summary of Whiteness Theory. Retreived from http://www.pauahtun.org/Whiteness-Summary-1.html on March 31, 2007 United Nations Economic and Social Commission for Asia and the Pacific (n.d.) The State of Women in Urban and Rural Government. Retrieved on April 20, 2007 from www.unescap.org/huset/women/reports/india.pdf. The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 27 Appendices Appendix A Key Informant Interview Questions 28 Appendix B Transcriptions of Key Informant Interviews 29 Appendix C Website links to Online Media about Skin Lightening and Organizations/Movements Against the Industry 36 The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 28 Appendix A: Key Informant Questions 1. How is skin color viewed with the populations you work with? Do you have direct experience with Indian women that favor fair skin over dark skin? 2. Do you think there’s a prejudice against darker skin color within the Indian community in America? What do you think is behind this phenomenon? 3. What role do you think colonialism, racism and sexism have on the standards of beauty that Indian women idealize? 4. How do you feel about skin lightening creams being marketed in India? What about brand names like L’Oreal marketing to Indian women? 5. Do you feel that there is a double standard for skin color between men and women? Explain. 6. What do you see as some of the health impacts of skin lightening on Indian women? Do you see health impacts on Indian men as well? 7. Do you feel that the attitude towards skin color is changing within the Indian community? If so, in what ways? If not, what do you think would force a change in this belief system? The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 29 Appendix B: Transcriptions of Key Informant Interviews Informant # 1: Shailushi Baxi-Ritchie, Non-Profit Consultant and Activist (SBR) Informant # 2: Smitha Radhakrishnan, Sociologist working in gender and race in India. (SR) Informant # 3: Geeta Malik, film director (GM) 1. How is skin color viewed with the populations you work with? Do you have direct experience with Indian women that favor fair skin over dark skin? SBR: Does no direct work with populations. Consultant with organizations; personal perspective—white skin is a big deal in her family and in her caste/sub caste. Family is Brahmin, Nagar Brahmin, closely related to Greeks; one of the traits that differentiate them from other Gujus is really fair skin. Relates to how you are perceived; mother has really fair skin fairer than her Caucasian husband. SR: My work deals specifically with the “new” middle class in India—that is, highly educated, upwardly mobile Indians working in high-end service industries like software. In this population, I think there is a huge disconnect between what people say and what they do with regard to skin color. One of the specific characteristics of this group is that they believe themselves to be fundamentally progressive—they believe in merit-based advancement and professionalism, but also in preserving the “essence” of Indian culture. So, whenever the topic of skin color comes up with women, there is a presumption that such prejudices no longer matter, that “educated” people have risen above this somehow, though they recognize that prejudices against dark skin for women may persist among less enlightened groups. But, like many similar beliefs among this group of people, such beliefs do not translate into most people’s realities. One very astute woman I interviewed explained that skin color is still one of the fundamental characteristics of a woman, taken into consideration before her education, professional status, or personality. She said, “when people are describing me, they would still say that ‘Neethy is of wheatish complexion and a bit plump.’ Only after that might they mention, ‘she’s a project manager with a masters’ degree.’” So, like race/racial distinction in the US and elsewhere, skin color prejudices exist and probably still affect especially a woman’s life chances in important ways (especially with regard to marriage), but this reality is thought to be regressive, and is thus, not recognized as a reality among educated upwardly mobile groups who do not wish to have themselves thought of in that way. These constructs also vary according to community and region, which is still hugely important, even among these highly educated groups. What is considered a “normal” skin tone in a Tamilian community, for example, might be “too dark” or even “ugly” in a Punjabi or Marwari community. GM: I actually do work with a population who's conscious about their skin color--people who want to be actors! Many South Asian women are hyper-aware of their skin color, and are always taking steps to make sure they don't get darker than they already are. I have direct experience with Indian women who prefer fair skin—many of my acquaintances are always complaining about having dark skin, or who will point out a dark woman and say things like, "she'd be so pretty if she wasn't so dark." The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 30 2. Do you think there’s a prejudice against darker skin color within the Indian community in America? What do you think is behind this phenomenon? SBR: More subtle prejudice; becomes a factor in the mix when girls are ready to get married. Never experienced a comment about; angling around her skin color, much darker than her sisters. Perception—not enough to be Matrimonial ads—look at what runs in the India tribune. Grooms and grooms families seeking educated, professional, slim and fair skinned. Why? Related to money—people who are fair skinned are seen as people of leisure. People, who work outdoors, are people who are dark. Fair skinned people have means to not work or to work indoors. Arbitrary standard of beauty that cultures have chosen—communities that tend to range from light to dark. Strong preference for African American women in that community that are fair skinned. People decided that was attractive. SR: There are very important ways in which light skin is equated with beauty in the Indian American community. That is not to say that dark-skinned women cannot be defined as beautiful, but in the cases that they are, people will say that she is beautiful despite her dark skin, not because of it. This is especially critical for women, but I think it affects dark-skinned men growing up the US as well, and I have witnessed that in my own family. There are so many things behind this, not just a single thing. But I think the important thing to consider here is to be careful not to equate skin color preferences in India with skin color preferences among Indians in America. They are related, yes, but not the same. I would argue that dark-skinned Indians in the US (both male and female) probably have it even worse in the US than in India because (Caucasian) whiteness is still the standard of beauty in America, and we are always implicitly being compared to that, in the same way that light-skinned African Americans do better in the US than their dark-skinned counterparts. In the same way as some light-skinned African-Americans have historically been in the position to “pass” as White, lightskinned Indians can also “pass” as Caucasian. The darker the skin gets, this is no longer possible. Although fairness is still the standard of beauty in India, I don’t think it’s quite the same as having Caucasian-ness be the standard. You don’t have to be very dark to be “dark” in the US, but in India, depending on region, family, etc, I would say there are more shades in which to imagine yourself as beautiful. GM: Yes, I do think there's a prejudice against darker skin in the community here. You see it even in the matrimonial ads these days, or on the dating websites, which I would assume are aimed at people in our generation--Indian-Americans between 20 and 40. They have categories for skin color on many of those sites. I think it's a carryover from the old prejudices back in India itself--it's a deep-seated feeling that darker people are of lower castes or do more menial jobs, while the fair and lovely ones are the higher-ups—office workers, people who don't have to resort to manual labor for their wages. The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 31 3. What role do you think colonialism, racism and sexism have on the standards of beauty that Indian women idealize? SBR: Women have been seen as a commodity that have been traded by men. Wives as daughters have been a currency traded between men. Having an attractive daughter is a way of power, of exerting power. People in power say its important. If you are a light-skinned woman, you are likely to be able to attract more power or money in a mate. Has to do with what is valued in a culture and these things were set by men. Did women decide that large breasts and a small frame are attractive? Sexism is a huge thing. The Indian culture is still very sexist. Women fought to look like me to compete like Colonialism and racism are wrapped up as one of the same as India has constantly been occupied—especially with the British—if you were a light skinned Indian women; you may be more likely to marry up with someone that has privilege. Fascinated to see how the skin lightening is perceived in England among Indian and Pakistani people in Britain. Are Indians trying to appeal to their oppressors? How about in the UK? SR: This is a complicated question. Colonialism, racism, and sexism are very different things, though they intersect in important ways. I’ll address this with regard to the specific example in the next question. GM: I think colonialism started it back in the day in India, but now it's become a general thing-the western ideals of beauty relate to not only skin color, but weight, hair type, eye color, all of it. The west is still richer, and the ideal place to live is America, according to Indians. Racism fits into that as well--again, darker people being thought of as lesser because of more exposure to the sun, versus the kid-gloved upper class. Sexism is less of an issue, I think, because men are also complaining that dark skin doesn't allow them to get ahead (there was a recent study done here in America--MSN, maybe?--that actually said people in general with darker skin--Mexicans, African-Americans, even Caucasians--have a harder time getting ahead). The tough thing with arguing colonialism is that many Indians are indeed, naturally fair-skinned, and may be that way due to Persian blood--Kashmiris, too, are very fair, and many north Indians in general. This prejudice probably goes back a long, long way (Krishna's dark, but Radha is fair, etc). Not sure where it all comes from. 4. How do you feel about skin lightening creams being marketed in India? What about brand names like L’Oreal marketing to Indian women? SBR: Torn about the issue of skin lightening. Idealist—that’s stupid. Another aspect of changing your body; if it helps them feel good about themselves, then its in pursuit of some beauty ideal that is arbitrarily set. Every woman has a right to pursue an ideal that she feels is important, but torn about the arbitrary standards that don’t serve their interests and can actually be harmful. There is a point at which it endangers women. The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 32 SR: It’s important not to jump to the conclusion that L’Oreal and other “global” cosmetic brands are “importing” ideas about beauty to the gullible Indian masses. Fair skin for women has been valued in India for many generations. I’m not even sure if it was strictly a “colonial” import either because fair skin for women often marked privilege (not having to be outdoors to work) and caste (not being born into a caste that has to work outdoors—this is a simplistic definition of the caste meanings of skin color, but generally conveys the idea: higher castes stay indoors, do not do manual labor). There is an historical issue at stake here and I am not an historian, so I cannot say. I can say, however, that it would be a mistake to simplistically blame globalization and brands like L’Oreal for making Indian women want lighter skin. I’m not saying L’Oreal is not culpable in the way that global capital always is, but I am saying that there have been “local” Indian brands of skin-lightening creams and other “fairness” products long before L’Oreal got into India. Marketing in India caters to class segregation. Brands like L’Oreal cater to an upwardly mobile “global” middle-class who buy these brands to be global consumers. In Indian terms, these cosmetics are prohibitively expensive, but they sell because using them indicates a participation in a “global” set of meanings about beauty. The success of Miss India’s in international beauty pageants was a huge validation of the “global” beauty of Indian women, and brands like L’Oreal were the biggest beneficiaries of this kind of success. This is pretty well-documented and I could probably dig up some sources for you if you’d like to investigate this angle more. There are a host of other cosmetic brands, however, that cater to a much broader section of Indian society. I have heard stories of desperately poor women without food purchasing a tube of fairness cream (this is anecdotal, but I would suspect there’s some truth to it). I doubt such a woman bought L’Oreal. Fairness creams of all sizes, brands, and qualities are available at every corner store, especially in Indian metros. And even before commercial fairness creams, women used herbal treatments, such as turmeric, to lighten skin and remove hair. The point is, value for light skin is very deeply rooted in many aspects of Indian culture—it did not arrive all of a sudden. This does not, of course, make it okay in any way. It does mean, however, that addressing the issue in a meaningful way requires us to think much more deeply about the construction of beauty as it works with class, caste, gender, and age. In India, as elsewhere, these issues are extremely complex and globalization is just the latest chapter in this long history. GM: I think it's sickening and wrong. I think companies like L'Oreal and Unilever are equally wrong in doing this--regardless of where they are based, it's not a good thing. L'Oreal can't get away with that here in America, but there's a market for them in India. 5. Do you feel that there is a double standard for skin color between men and women? Explain. SBR: Generally, there is a preference for lighter skin among both genders. The issue plays out so much more extremely for women than for men. Women are unable to exercise control over their situations, so things like, the standard is there across the board. Men don’t surfer the consequences of not meeting the beauty ideals. The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 33 SR: Yes and no. There is no double standard in the sense that I think that fairness is considered beautiful across genders. In a matrimonial situation, if the groom is “fair and tall,” it means he is good-looking in the same way that it would mean that for a bride. There is a double standard in the sense that beauty is considered to be much more important in defining women, as opposed to men. If a man is dark, this can be easily compensated by other characteristics, such as coming from a good family, having a good job, or having a pleasant nature. If a woman is dark, however, this is less easily compensated for, and in the “marriage market,” it will make her a less desirable “product.” Of course, all these things get jumbled up when you take the conventional system of arranged marriage out of the picture. Increasingly, at least, among the group of upwardly-mobile folks that I study, people are meeting their own mates, usually through work. This means more intermarrying between caste and region, and may mean that things like skin color, that get a “value” placed on them in the arranged-marriage system, become less relevant. For example, a tall, fair guy with a great job, who might have been “arranged” to marry another tall, fair woman from his same region and caste, may fall in love with a short, dark-skinned woman at work who’s from another region, and force his parents to accept the match (I actually know two cases of this exact situation). In this case, where’s the double-standard? Because two people meet and learn to care for each other outside of a system that puts an absolute “value” on their looks, the value of socially-sanctioned ideas of beauty diminishes (but that doesn’t mean the couple won’t go through life without people wondering how the two of them ever got together!). GM: Yes, but it's disappearing. I've heard from a lot of my guy friends, and even the fact that Unilever is now making Fair and Handsome, means that men are becoming more conscious of their skin as well. Even in matrimonials, same things for the guys--they now mention the guys' complexions as well. 6. What do you see as some of the health impacts of skin lightening on Indian women? Do you see health impacts on Indian men as well? SBR: Chemical process can’t be healthy. At the minimum, serious skin reactions, major allergic reactions and could die at the maximum. Everything has a certain amount of risk. There is a pursuit of an ideal that is arbitrary and can actually endanger women, its infectious and its not good in many ways. Individual women, potential negative low self esteem, relentless pursuit of an ideal you cant reach. The more women focus on things like beauty and attracting men, the more we are distracted from the things we are distracted from the things that are truly important. The less they can focus on things like sexual harassment, honor killings and the real dangers to Indian women. The stuff about dowry, that is really dangerous—the more there is a population health issue. The more women as a whole they focus on superficial—more true in the United States. SR: Although I know that skin lightening is a massive industry in India, I don’t personally know women who use skin lighteners regularly, so I can’t comment on this. The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 34 GM: I see more of an emotional impact, because I don't know exactly how dangerous the physical impact is. I think it causes women to feel that they cannot possibly be attractive without being light-skinned. I would think the same idea applies to men. Mentally, it works to make people hate themselves and their backgrounds, and that shame is exactly what the big companies want them to feel. 7. Do you feel that the attitude towards skin color is changing within the Indian community? If so, in what ways? If not, what do you think would force a change in this belief system? SBR: Our generation of people raised in the U.S., young Indian professionals are not marrying within their own communities. The standards don’t necessarily hold up. Selling point isn’t that the skin is so fair in this country. The traditional barriers just don’t make sense any more in U.S. where dark skin is more prized among Caucasians. As Indians become more visible—there is a large diversity of skin tones—Parminder Nagra on ER is dark skinned. Kal Penn, fairly dark skinned. More popular images that emerge of South Asians. Steer people more toward different ideals about what is desirable. In India, much more difficult thing to deal with. Tough with Bollywood—can pick the most beautiful from a pick of 10 or 20 women. The media here is so small, that is a different story in the U.S. Media really plays a role—the more you see reflections of yourself in the media, the less. Take the focus off sex, beauty, reflect back the diversity, more people are comfortable with that. SR: Yes and no. In India, it is changing in the ways I mentioned in #5 (changing marital practices amongst a certain class of people). Hard to say how widespread this is—it may not be too widespread, since the people I work with are a tiny slice of the population, and even among them, it’s not necessarily the experience of the majority. It’s just becoming more common. In the US, I think in recent years (and this is full of contradictions too), there’s been a move towards idealizing “global”-looking beauty. I think there has been a lot of hype about this in the media in the past 10 years. So, beauty isn’t just blond and blue-eyed, but increasingly, beauty is ascribed to people who look like they could be a number of ethnicities (i.e. Beyonce, Halle Berry, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Naomi Campbell). Of course, no “dark-skinned” women in that bunch, but these aren’t Gwyneth Patrons either. Denzel Washington is considered one of the most attractive men alive and he’s not a light-skinned African American (not that dark either, granted). The point is that I think the ideal of beauty in America is changing and becoming a bit more inclusive (with regard to skin color, that is—body shape is a whole other thing). So, I do hope that Indian-Americans growing up today will feel more like they can be beautiful in their own skin, but this is of course an optimistic view, and requires effort on all of our parts. Think of it as a best-case scenario (of course, if they stop lightening their skin and instead become bulimic, I wouldn’t say that’s improvement, but one issue at a time, right?). The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 35 GM: I'm afraid it's only a small segment of the population who are truly disgusted by the practice of prejudice against skin color. The artists, activists and scholars are aware, but the rest of the population is simply regurgitating what they've heard all their lives from their parents and relatives. The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 36 Appendix C: Website links to Online Media about Skin Lightening and Organizations/Movements Against the Industry. Blogs/Online Journals Cerebration Online Journal run from newly established online journal that strives to bridge the gap between academia and non academic circles across cultures. Run through the Caspersen School of graduate studies, Drew University www.cerebration.org Desi Journal Online journal that reflects the everyday lives of modern Indians living in the Diaspora -- desis. http://www.desijournal.com/ SAMAR (South Asian Magazine for Action and Reflection) Online magazine/website with a South Asian focus based in the United States. Sepia Mutiny Blog about South Asian Issues http://www.sepiamutiny.com/ South Asian Review An academic journal of South Asian literary and cultural studies; a publication of SALA (the South Asian Literature Association) http://www.pitt.edu/~cscox/SARlink.html Organizations All India Democratic Women’s Association http://www.aidwa.org/index.php Center for Social Research http://www.csrindia.org/d%20gti.htm Network of Women in Media, India http://www.nwmindia.org/Newsmakers/index_newsmakers.htm SAWNET http://www.sawnet.org/ South Asian Forum http://www.southasianforum.org/ South Asian Media Net Conference Reports http://www.southasianmedia.net/conference/Gender_and_Media/safma_workshop.htm The Domination of Fair Skin: Skin Whitening, Indian Women and Public Health Malik 37 Videos/Documentaries A Darker Side of Fair Produced/Directed by Deepak Leslie http://www.der.org/films/a-darker-side-of-fair.html Colorism Exposed Produced by Chimene Davis and Bonnie Rutherford http://www.originofrainbows.com/index.html Not Fair, Still Lovely Produced/Directed by Geeta Malik http://www.current.tv/watch/13495984?s1=topVids&list=topVidsByAssignmentGroup&k1=1 Picture Citation: http://www.aidwa.org/
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