Horse, Pony or Donkey - the Right Pet for You?

Horse, Pony or Donkey - the Right Pet for You?
Owning a horse or pony is rewarding, but a huge responsibility and very
hard work. You need a lot of land, time, money and commitment. Every
responsible horse owner and handler will need to keep themselves updated
on all aspects of horse care and information in order to ensure their animals
live a long, happy and healthy life. It’s no secret that horses require a certain
level of care, including winterising, stable cleanliness and vaccinations.
What do horses and ponies need?
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Companionship - to be with other horses, ponies, donkeys, goats or cattle and to have human
company.
Regular and frequent feeds of grass and fresh hay, oats, apples, carrots and pony cubes.
Extra food in the winter.
A constant supply of fresh, clean water to drink.
At least one hectare of pasture, with strong and safe fencing. This must be well managed and ideally
divided in two, so that one area of grass can be rested while the other is used. Check for poisonous
plants.
A shelter to protect them from cold, windy or hot weather.
Daily exercise.
To have stones and grit removed from their hooves every day before and after exercise.
If they are kept in a stable, they must be groomed and mucked out every day.
Visits from a farrier every four to eight weeks.
To be microchiped in case they are lost or stolen.
To be visited by a vet if they are ill or injured.
Regular injections to prevent certain serious diseases.
Worming every six to eight weeks.
To be looked after when you are on holiday.
Life span
Most horses and ponies live for over 20 years.
Controlling Your Horse - What You Need to Know!
Behavior
By nature, horses are companionable animals designed to graze in open spaces with other horses. Horses and
ponies are herd animals and may get upset if kept alone. Human company is also important. It is better for
them to live outside than be permanently stabled, but they must have shelter available. All horses and ponies
need to be able to roam and graze in a field or paddock. They will learn to adapt to stable life but it is
important to exercise your horse in order to satisfy its physical needs. If not, your horse will become bored and
unhappy.
Caring for your horse.
Before pasturing your horse, make sure there is no rubbish, holes in the fencing or other hazards like
poisonous plants. This must be done on a weekly basis at the very least. It is generally advised that at least one
acre of pasture per horse is sufficient.
The most harmful plants to horses are:
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Ragwort
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Deadly Nightshade
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Buttercups
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Foxglove
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Yew
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Oak Leaves
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Acorns
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Bracken
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Laurel
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Privet
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Meadow Saffron
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Castor Bean
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Locoweed
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Horsetail,
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Star Thistle
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Sorghum
Fencing, Sheltering and Bedding.
In order to prevent your horse from escaping, you must fence off your pasture. Barbed wire is not
recommended but plain wire fencing is ok once it is well secured to strong wooden posts
You must also provide shelter in order to protect your horse from the elements. Trees provide good shade in
summer but shelter from wind, rain, and strong sun must be provided by a three sided enclosure. Ensure the
shelter is large enough to allow your horse to fit inside and make sure it’s built so the back wall faces the
prevailing winds.
Fresh, clean water must be in constant supply. For those using a watering bucket, it must be refilled at least
twice daily and always when it is empty. (Place the bucket inside a tyre; this will stop it from being spilled
over). We recommend you use a watering trough, supplied by a pipe, but this must also be checked during the
winter to ensure the pipe doesn’t freeze over.
For horses kept in a barn or stable, the correct bedding is a must. Horses should not stand all day on a hard
floor. They will need to lie down to sleep or take a rest. Straw is popular bedding because it is inexpensive,
comfortable and warm for the horse. Do remember that straw contains fungal spores and the horse will
occasionally eat it.
Another hygienic and inexpensive alternative is dust free wood shavings.
Rubber matting is also good but you should put straw or wood shavings on top of it to provide warmth. Hemp
may also be used.
Points to remember:
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If your horse is stabled all day then it must be mucked out on a daily basis; at least three times a day.
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Remove all droppings with a shovel and wheelbarrow and level the horse’s bedding.
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When you’ve removed the droppings, separate the soiled bedding from clean bedding, then sweep and
clean the floor with stable disinfectant. When the floor has dried, return the clean bedding and add fresh
bedding on top.
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A horse will also require daily grooming to keep his coat healthy. However, if your horse spends a lot of
time in the pasture, don’t over groom him as he needs the natural oils in his coat to help keep him warm and
dry.
Your Horse and Winter:
The cold snap is well and truly here and horse owners may put blankets on their animals. However, a horse’s
natural winter coat is more insulating than a blanket. Unless a horse has been clipped or is outside without a
wind break, or, is moved to a colder climate during the winter, it can actually be warmer without a blanket.
The horses winter coat helps trap the animal’s body heat against the skin. The tiny muscles in the skin can raise
the horse’s hairs; this creates tiny air pockets that heighten the insulating effect. Flattening this coat by adding
a blanket can actually make the horse colder
Handling
Horses and ponies are very sensitive animals and are easily frightened or upset. Approach their heads slowly
and cautiously and speak as you do so. Sudden noises or unexpected movements can cause alarm and make
the animal difficult to handle. You need to gain experience with other horses before having your own.
Keeping yourself safe around a horse:
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There are obvious dangers to take into consideration when working around horses. For example, riding
too fast without a saddle, jumping over obstacles, etc., However, grooming a horse, which takes place on the
ground, is actually more dangerous than those mentioned above.
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Research has shown that more horse related injuries can occur on the ground rather than when a horse
is mounted. When you are near horses, you should always wear a protective helmet; especially when feeding,
leading or grooming. It is also important to be alert.
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When on the ground, keep the shortest distance possible between you and the animal.
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Keep the animal on a tight rein and stay right up close to their head so they won’t be able to turn and
bite you. A horse has a lot of room between their head and shoulders so it’s easy for them to turn quickly and
bite you.
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Make sure the horse knows where you are at all times and is aware you are approaching him.
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When grooming a horse, begin at the front and work your way towards the rear. Know his
sensitive/ticklish areas and keep a hand in constant contact with the horse’s flank area. If you tickle him he is
more likely to kick you.
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When feeding, keep a fence in between you and the animal.
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When doing work in the barn/shed, never place the animal between you and the exit.
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Speak to the animal in soothing tones.
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When the animal is young, try and expose them to distractions and other people.
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Always be firm but NEVER mistreat the animal.
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Treat the animal with the utmost respect.
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Watch the animal’s eyes and ears in order to get an idea of their mood.
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If the ears go back or the horse begins chomping, that is a sign there could be a problem. Try and speak
calmly and reassure the animal.
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Remain calm; a horse will quickly pick up your own mood.
Breeding
The Dublin SPCA advises you do not breed from your horse or pony unless you have the facilities and expertise
to properly care for a foal. Females (mares) over three years old come into season every three weeks from
early spring to midsummer. Males (stallions) reach breeding age at two years. A castrated male is called a
gelding. Males should be castrated before they are two years old.
Health
Horses and ponies should be vaccinated against serious diseases, including equine flu and tetanus. Equine flu is
a very contagious virus - symptoms include fever, cough, runny eyes and nose, depression and loss of appetite.
A horse or pony with a cough may have a respiratory infection, and should not be ridden except on veterinary
advice. It could be caused by dusty or mouldy hay or bedding. If a horse or pony's breathing becomes louder
and more noticeable at rest and during light exercise, they may have broken wind, also known as Chronic
Obstructive Pulmonary Disease (COPD) and will need to see a vet. A horse or pony may develop colic - pain in
the stomach due to indigestion, gas, or worms. Seek veterinary advice straight away. Horses should be
routinely treated for worms. Laminitis is a very painful inflammation of the sensitive part inside the hooves. It
can cause lameness and deformity, so seek veterinary advice straight away. Too much food and too little
exercise cause it. Horses and ponies may suffer from thrush, a foul smelling inflammation in the foot. This is
caused by dirty, wet bedding or poor farriery. It is a good idea to take out insurance to cover veterinary fees
for your horse or pony. One of our sponsors Alliance Insurance have a Horse & Rider insurance scheme, please
click here for more information. Please tell them you heard about this from the Dublin SPCA
Irish Legal Information regarding Horses
Remember - a pet needs your time and interest for the rest of its life.
Thanks to www.horsecareandinformation.com & RSPCA