Limosa Holidays & Travelling Naturalists • Trip Report
ICELAND
The Land of Ice & Fire
Sat 14th – Tue 23rd June 2015
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Trip photos (clockwise, from top left): A line of fine Harlequin Ducks offer a super sight • Puffins were seen
well on Melrakkaey Island • A Black-tailed Godwit in display flight • A female Red-necked Phalarope – one of a
number seen • Life on the ledge – Kittiwakes squabble • A fine portrait of an Arctic Tern above its nest
© All photos by tour participant Tony Jones
report compiled by tour leader:
Gary Elton
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1 • © Limosa Holidays & Travelling Naturalists
Trip Report
ICELAND 14-23 June 2015
TRIP DIARY
Tour Leaders: Trausti Gunnarsson and Gary Elton
with Don & Mai-Luis Bartling, Ian & Gill Flinn, Sasha Foreman, Brian Fowler, Tony
Jones, Josh Joshi, Malcolm Silver, James Streeton & Sharyle Fowler, Frances Walder
and Len & Gill Waterworth
We arrived on time at Keflavík airport, to be met by brilliant sunshine, our local guide, Trausti, and
the other members of our multi-national group who had flown directly in from Canada and the United
States. After a short drive in our comfortable bus, we took the opportunity to stretch our legs and do a
little birding at the nearby Garðskagi lighthouse. This started our trip with a selection of the more
regular species we were going to encounter over the next ten days, such as Eider, Golden Plover,
Redshank and Arctic Tern. The peninsula here also gave us our only Manx Shearwaters of the trip,
with the birds breeding on the nearby offshore Westman Islands. Fulmar, Gannet and distant Auk
species were seen passing offshore, with other species including Turnstone, both Glaucous and Iceland
Gulls and our first Red-throated and Great Northern Divers also noted. We were soon on the road
again heading to the town of Skálholt, which was to be our base for the first three days. Our excellent
guesthouse accommodation was well positioned for us to explore the area. Its scenic setting gave us
some great views and a perfect start to our days, with local walks producing drumming Snipe,
displaying Black-tailed Godwits and singing Redwing, all of which soon became familiar to us.
Other local species encountered during our first days here included the hoped for Harlequin Ducks,
Whooper Swans and Red-necked Phalarope. Breeding Great Skuas showed well at Markarfljot, though
a combination of high winds and sand meant conditions for photography weren't ideal: the real
challenge was the speed the birds shot past, literally giving you only a few seconds to focus and get a
photo!
The nearby Seljalandsfoss waterfall was as impressive as ever, with a couple of hardy souls taking the
option to walk completely behind it. The local Icelandic Wrens at the site proved more tricky than was
hoped for, easily heard but seeing them well was a different matter. The second waterfall of our first
full day in Iceland was Urriðafoss, which is the country's most voluminous waterfall with an average
water flow of 350 m2 per second, which can rise to as much as 1500m2 during the spring thaw!
Day three unfortunately saw the weather turn for the worse as predicted, with rain appearing by
lunchtime, though fortunately this did little really to affect our day, with our time spent visiting some
of the areas natural phenomena. These included the spouting geysers at Geysir, the spectacular
Gullfoss waterfall (which means golden falls in Icelandic) and the impressive landscape of the rift lake
and Viking parliament at Þingvallavatn. Birds seen today included our first Ptarmigan. A male still
retaining a large percentage of white plumage sat in full view on a hillside tussock. There were also
several photogenic Harlequin Ducks and some stunning breeding-plumaged Great Northern and Redthroated Divers, these latter birds also having a recently hatched chick. Our first approachable Rednecked Phalaropes allowed views down to several feet, which again proved surprisingly challenging
for those with cameras. An Arctic Fox was a welcome addition for a lucky few who viewed the animal
briefly from the rear of the bus, and the last of the group returning back to the bus at Þingvallavatn
gained good views of Icelandic Wren. Here though, most, if not all of the group, gained good views of
the swimmer who was standing naked on the bank, unashamedly waving at us as we drove past which,
understandably given the weather conditions, was the last thing we all expected to see!
Iceland has breathtaking scenery and is steeped in history, which is largely documented in the form of
sagas which portray Icelandic life through the centuries. Trausti was extremely knowledgeable in all
these areas, regularly relaying the sagas to us and explaining the geological formations of the
landscape around us as well.
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ICELAND 14-23 June 2015
Two images of Whimbrel – both beautiful © Tour participant Tony Jones
The next part of our journey to the north of the island unfortunately, due to the inclement weather, had
to be rejigged. With the spring thaw still not having fully taken place, the road north through the centre
of the country that we would normally take remained closed. The route we took instead took us back
to Reykjavik then along the main road north along the western edge of the island. There was still
plenty for us to see and our journey took us along the edge of Hvalfjörður (whale fjord) with the cloud
cover lifting and allowing us to enjoy the magnificent scenery as we drove along.
A further waterfall stop at Glanni was followed by lunch and walk up the side of the Grábrók crater by
a section of the group, with the view into the centre of the volcano from the top edge well worth the
walk. Birds of note today included our first Black Guillemots and Northern Wheatear (both rather
distant) with Shelduck added at the only reliable spot for this species in Iceland at Borgarnes. Pinkfooted Geese were easily seen as we drove along the Langidalur valley, these being a species
seemingly doing well and spreading out from their highland breeding areas. Three male Goosanders
were a roadside bonus, though the busy road meant stopping was difficult and the people in the car
behind made it clear they definitely weren't birders!
Our accommodation in the North was at Öngulsstaðir, a welcoming comfortable family run hotel
complete with hot tub in a wonderful valley setting. Breeding waders and Redwings were again a
familiar sight with the added bonus of a locally breeding pair of Short-eared Owls that were regularly
seen quartering the fields below.
Our first full day here in the north was spent circumnavigating Lake Mývatn, or 'midge lake 'as it is
also affectionately known. The midges were at times quite numerous but rarely bit, largely just
annoying with some parts of the lake more affected than others. We drove around its perimeter,
making various stops to view the birds, but also several other impressive stops at Goðafoss waterfall
and to walk through the volcanic castle-like scenery at Dimmuborgir. The birds did not disappoint and
were undoubtedly the main highlights of the day, with nesting Long-tailed Ducks, Slavonian Grebes
and Red-necked Phalaropes all seen very well and great close views of Harlequin Ducks and Great
Northern Divers.
The larger rafts of Tufted Ducks and Scaup producing our first Common Scoters of the trip and local
rarities came in the form of two male Pochards. A male Merlin was a good find by Trausti and at
lunch scanning through a flock of Barrow’s Goldeneye revealed two Common Goldeneye hiding in
amongst them.
The bird of the day though was undoubtedly Gyr Falcon, with our first a female on a nest and our
second a distant bird at Dimmuborgir. These views alone would have been good but more was to come
as we returned to the nest site at the end of the day. We timed it perfectly. As we arrived so did the
male, flying in to replace the female, which flew off the nest to land on a nearby section of rock. The
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ICELAND 14-23 June 2015
male stood initially on the edge of the nest revealing the presence of at least one small young, before
settling down to take his turn on the nest. Although distant, the light was very good and excellent
‘scope views were enjoyed by everyone.
After breakfast on day six we drove to the small harbour at Hauganes where we boarded an old
traditional oak fishing boat to sail out into the Eyjafjörður fjord in search of whales. Heading out south
into the fjord we were treated to regular views of Harbour Porpoises, a species largely only viewable
in calm conditions, with today's being perfect - no wind and the sun also putting in an appearance.
Another whale-watching boat could be seen distantly ahead of us obviously concentrating on one area
and after a few minutes a Humpback whale could be seen surfacing next to it. We watched from a
distance, moving closer all the time. It then transpired there were in fact three humpbacks in the
vicinity and we had soon latched onto our own animal and enjoyed fantastic views of it over the next
45 minutes with the other two animals also putting in an appearance.
We returned back to the harbour enjoying good views of the commoner auk species and some very
confiding Fulmars. On our return to the harbour we boarded the bus and made a short drive to the
nearby harbour at Árskógssandur where we had lunch then boarded the ferry and headed out to the
nearby island of Hrísey. On the island we enjoyed good views of the local breeding waders, plus
several Ptarmigan, including one amazingly confiding bird which seemed oblivious to the half dozen
photographers surrounding it. Several Snow Bunting were seen with one particularly camera-friendly
individual.
A travelling day again on day seven as we headed to the West of the country, with the journey broken
up with a visit to Kjarnaskógur Wood where we added Goldcrest to our list and better views of Wren.
The drive also took us past large numbers of Pink-feet including lots of young as we returned through
the Langidalur valley; nesting Slavonian Grebes were again seen on the pools at Móberg. The
highlight today, as we travelled around Skógaströnd, was the discovery of our first White-tailed Eagle,
an adult bird seen initially in flight then viewed distantly on an island cliff edge.
We continued our journey, unfortunately for only a short distance as loud noise signalled a blowout at
the rear of the bus. With the efficiency of a formula one rally team the tyre was changed and we were
quickly on our way again. Another scenic stop further on revealed our second eagle with Sharyle
seeing it briefly in flight enabling the majority of us to see it when it took off again. Our stay in the
west was adjacent to the harbour in Grundarfjörður, which meant Glaucous Gulls and Fulmars were
easily seen whenever we strolled outside.
Another boat trip started the following day, departing from the harbour of Stykkishólmur to the
picturesque island of Flatey. We enjoyed a lovely walk round the island in the sunshine, having close
views of birds such as Snow Buntings and Red necked Phalaropes plus some, once again, obliging
photographable species such as Redshank and Snipe. Lunch was taken on the return journey on the
ferry with the remainder of our afternoon then spent around the lava field at Berserkjahraun, another
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surreal landscape. A bonus here was our third White-tailed Eagle - another adult, though unfortunately
somewhat distant. An evening boat trip after dinner concluded the day, heading out from
Grundarfjörður harbour to view breeding seabirds on nearby Melrakkaey Island.
Though it was a bit chilly, it was a nice sunny evening, with both the weather and the birds giving us a
perfect end to the day with nice views of Puffins largely on the sea, Shags and Glaucous Gulls on the
cliff edges and a small unexpected group of five pale-bellied Brent Geese. On returning to the harbour
Trausti reminded us it was Midsummer's Eve and then furnished us with a list of options to ensure
health and riches for the forthcoming year. These choices largely involved Elves, spending some or all
of the night naked in the street and visiting the local pools to search for floating 'wishing stones'.
Before anybody asks, I've no idea who did what!
Our last day was spent driving to and around the westernmost point of the peninsula to the colonies on
the cliffs at Svörtuloft. Several stops along the way produced a second-summer Iceland Gull, more
Brent Geese and educational views of several first-summer Arctic Terns, an unusual age to see these
birds. Our ultimate destination was the lighthouse at Saxhólsbjarg for our final target species,
Brünnich's Guillemots, which nest in amongst the larger numbers of Razorbills and Guillemots on the
cliffs. Our elevated position making for excellent viewing of the colony.
The highlights today it turned out though were of the non-avian variety: scanning out to sea produced
breaching Hump-backed Whales, with at least two seen and a pod of around six Orcas. The Orcas
were initially very distant but fortunately they headed towards us getting closer and closer, at times
'spy hopping' and tail waving; whilst watching these a distant Sperm Whale was also discovered. The
time here was rounded off nicely with the appearance of an Arctic Fox, seen initially by Sharyle as it
crept amongst the rocks. It quickly disappeared then, as we pursued it hoping to glimpse it again, we
discovered it was one step ahead, already having moved clear of the rocks. Thanks were then due to
Brian who spied it running up a near hillside, which enabled us to get views of it again. Our last stop
of the day was the picturesque harbour setting of Arnastapi, where we walked along the cliff edges
admiring the unique rock formations and approachable seabirds, primarily Kittiwakes, nesting here.
Our final day was largely a travel day, with Trausti's father taking over the driving as Trausti had
taken Brian back to Reykjavik the night before to catch his flight that was scheduled for the following
day. We stopped again en route at the edge of the Berserkjahraun lava field to enjoy one of Iceland's
prettiest flowers, the Arctic Poppy, with a nice selection found on the road edge. We then drove on to
Reykjavik, stopping for lunch in a local hotel and afterwards revisiting the harbour and Garðskagi
lighthouse before arriving at the airport in good time for our return flights home.
It had been a enjoyable and interesting ten days, we left with some wonderful memories and we had a
lot of fun on the way. Trausti and I would like to thank everyone in the group for being such good
company, and making our jobs such an enjoyable one. I hope we meet again soon.
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ANNOTATED LIST OF BIRDS RECORDED
[Grand total by group 75 species]
Ptarmigan Lagopus muta
Recorded on three dates with the best views and at least six seen on Hrísey Island.
Pink-footed Goose Anser brachyrhynchus
Seen in good numbers with many family parties noted on our journey north, with similar numbers seen
as we returned south towards our last stop in the west.
Greylag Goose Anser anser
Noted daily.
Brent Goose Branta bernicla hrota
Five pale bellied' birds were seen during our evening boat trip to Melrakkaey Island. With four more
or possibly some of the same as above, seen at Rif the following day.
Whooper Swan Cygnus cygnus
Noted daily and easily seen, with some family parties also noted.
Snow Goose Anser caerulescens
A white morph, a long staying rarity was seen on one of the pools close to Sandgerði on our first day.
Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna
At least 12 were seen on the estuary at Borgarnes.
Gadwall Anas strepera
Noted whilst we travelled on day four and easily seen at various spots during our visit to Lake
Mývatn.
Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope
Noted on four dates, with largest numbers noted at Lake Mývatn.
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
Common, seen throughout the trip.
Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
A female bird was noted at Lake Mývatn.
Northern Pintail Anas acuta
Only one seen, a male on day three at Þingvallavatn.
Eurasian Teal Anas crecca
Recorded on six dates.
Common Pochard Aythya ferina
Two males were seen at Lake Myvatn, a good total as this species is a bit of a rarity in Iceland.
Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula
Recorded daily, invariably on roadside pools.
Greater Scaup Aythya marila
Noted on five dates, as above invariably on roadside pools.
Common Eider Somateria mollissima
Seen daily, with flocks numbering several hundred noted during our last three days stay in the west of
the island.
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ICELAND 14-23 June 2015
Harlequin Duck Histrionicus histrionicus
A species that was never going to disappoint, with great views had of several on numerous occasions.
Noted on seven dates with the majority of birds splendid males, which at times offered nice
photographic opportunities.
Common Scoter Melanitta nigra
Surprisingly scarce, only recorded on our visit to Lake Mývatn with around 30 seen.
Long-tailed Duck Clangula hyemalis
Seen on four days. With excellent views and largest numbers at Mývatn.
Common Goldeneye Bucephala clangula
Two drakes were found in amongst a large Barrow's Goldeneye flock at Mývatn, giving us a great
opportunity to compare the two species.
Barrow’s Goldeneye Bucephala islandica
Our first, a single male bird on day three, was followed by close to a 100 at Mývatn on day five.
Goosander Mergus merganser
Three males were seen on a roadside river were seen as were travelled North on day four.
Red-breasted Merganser Mergus serrator
Easily seen and noted daily throughout the trip.
Red-throated Diver Gavia stellata
Seen on eight days with particularly good views had at Þingvallavatn, which included a pair with one
young.
Great Northern Diver Gavia immer
‘Common Loon’ was seen on six dates with excellent views had at Lake Mývatn, where a close flock
of six stunning summer-plumaged birds was particularly noteworthy.
Fulmar Fulmarus glacialis
Seen every day. Large numbers were particularly noticeable in the west of the island where several
large nesting colonies were seen. Several hundred also regularly congregated by the harbour outflow
behind our last hotel in Grundarfjörður.
Manx Shearwater Puffinus puffinus
Seen passing Garðskagi lighthouse in small numbers on our first and last days.
Slavonian Grebe Podiceps auritus
Seen on four days with largest numbers at Lake Mývatn, with several giving exceedingly good close
views.
Northern Gannet Morus bassanus
Recorded on four days, the largest number from Garðskagi lighthouse on our last day with the
majority of birds seen being adults.
Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo
Seen on eight dates in total.
European Shag Phalacrocorax aristotelis
Seen on two dates during our stay in the west, during both our boat trips there and at Arnarstapi.
Merlin Falco columbarius
A male bird was seen briefly in flight at Gullfoss by Len on day three, with the group enjoying great
views of a perched male found by Trausti at Goðafoss.
Gyr Falcon Falco rusticolus
A visit to a nest site near Myvatn gave us views of the female on the nest, with another bird found
perched on a distant crag at Dimmuborgir later in the day. We decided to return via the initial nest site,
which proved to be a good move as literally as we arrived so did the male. We watched the birds swap
places, which revealed at least one chick in the nest, the male then took over nest duties with the
female remaining perched in view nearby.
White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla
Three adult birds in total this year, two at Skógastrond as we travelled along the Western Peninsula,
and another high over the mountains at Berserkjahraun.
Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus
Seen daily at numerous sites.
European Golden Plover Pluvialis apricaria
Again seen daily, mainly roadside birds in breeding plumage, which were always worth a second look.
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ICELAND 14-23 June 2015
Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula tundrae
Seen daily, but in relatively small numbers being more habitat-reliant than many of the other wader
species.
Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago faeroeensis
Recorded daily, with numerous drumming birds noted throughout the trip.
Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa islandica
Recorded daily, though seemingly not as numerous as many of the other wader species.
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
Seen daily, often perched on roadside fence posts or flying across the road in front of the minibus.
Common Redshank Tringa totanus
Noted and seen well daily.
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres
Noted on both visits to the lighthouse at Garoskagi with singles also seen at Blönduós and near Rif.
Purple Sandpiper Calidris maritima
Up to two birds were seen on the harbour rocks outside our hotel in Grundarfjörður on two mornings.
Dunlin Calidris alpina
Recorded on six dates, all in the south and the west of the country.
Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus
Recorded every day, easily seen on roadside pools and amazing views literally down to several feet
during our visits to Þingvallavatn and Flatey Island.
Common Gull Larus canus
Recorded on six dates, virtually all seen in the north of the country.
Great Black-backed gull Larus marinus
Recorded daily throughout the trip.
Glaucous Gull Larus hyperboreus
Common in the west and seen daily, at times in large numbers. Away from here recorded in small
numbers at Garðskagi lighthouse, with several also seen at Blönduós.
Iceland Gull Larus glaucoides
One was photographed by Don on our first visit to Garðskagi lighthouse which unfortunately eluded
the rest of the group. We had to wait until our last full day until we were all to see one, a second
summer bird near Rif.
Herring Gull Larus argentatus
Seen daily.
Lesser Black-backed gull Larus fuscus
Seen every day.
Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus
Noted daily.
Kittiwake Rissa tridactyla
Common on the coast, seen on seven days.
Arctic Tern Sterna paradisaea
Arguably one of the commonest birds in Iceland with birds recorded daily, with many roadside
breeding colonies noted.
Great Skua Stercorarius skua
Around 15 birds were seen around their breeding site at Markarfljót though the viewing conditions
were challenging to say the least ! Only one other bird was seen on the sea at Blönduós.
Arctic skua Stercorarius parasiticus
Birds were recorded daily throughout the trip, with both dark and pale morph birds seen and invariably
noted harassing Arctic Terns.
Brünnich´s Guillemot Uria lomvia
Seen well on breeding ledges at Snæfellsnes on day nine, with one also seen on the sea during our boat
trip in Eyjafjörður.
Common Guillemot Uria aalge
Seen easily at Snæfellsnes alongside the above species, with 'bridled' birds also noted. Also recorded
flying past Garðskagi lighthouse on both visits there with other auk species.
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ICELAND 14-23 June 2015
Razorbill Alca torda
Again easily seen on the cliffs at Snæfellsnes, with birds also noted as above flying past Garðskagi
lighthouse.
Black Guillemot Cepphus grylle
Seen throughout our visit to the west of the island, with best views had on our visit to Flatey Island.
Atlantic Puffin Fratercula arctica
Again seen daily during our visit to the west and from Garðskagi lighthouse.
Rock Dove/Feral Pigeon Columba livia
Noted on four dates during our time in the south with several looking seemingly good for ‘pukka’
Rock Doves.
Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus.
Up to two birds were noted daily, both morning and evening from our hotel in the North.
Northern Raven Corvus corax
Seen daily, more numerous in the west.
Goldcrest Regulus regulus
Brief views were had of two birds at Kjarnaskógur on day seven .
Wren Troglodytes troglodytes islandicus
Birds were seen and/or heard on three dates. Birds in Iceland are of the Icelandic race, which are larger
than the nominate troglodytes.
European Starling Sturnus vulgaris
Seen every day.
Redwing Turdus iliacus
Seen every day, with birds easily heard and seen.
Blackbird Turdus merula
One briefly on day one was followed by good views for everyone in a small piece of woodland at a
fuel stop just outside Reykjavik.
Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe
Recorded on five dates during our time in the north and west of the country, the majority roadside
birds. In theory, only the larger more brightly coloured ‘Greenland’ race leucorhoa is present on
Iceland, but some looked a little paler resembling nominate oenanthe.
White Wagtail Motacilla alba alba
Seen daily at a variety of sites.
Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis
Common and noted daily.
Common Redpoll Acanthis flammea
Recorded on four dates, with one seen particularly well during our visit to Hrísey Island. Birds in
Iceland seemingly are of both the islandica and rostrata. Both are large redpolls with the former being
paler and the later being darker and more heavily streaked – but IOC doesn’t recognise islandica,
preferring to have pale and dark versions of rostrata.
Snow Bunting Plectrophenax nivalis
Noted daily with highest numbers and best views had on Hrísey and Flatey Islands.
MAMMALS
Grey Seal Halichoerus grypus
Common Seal Phoca vitulina
Harbour Porpoise Phocoena phocoena
Orca Orcinus orca
Humpback Whale Megaptera novaeangliae
Sperm Whale Physeter macrocephalus
Arctic Fox Alopex lagopus
Mink Mustela vison
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ICELAND 14-23 June 2015
LIST OF PLANTS
[following numbers in “Flowering Plants and Ferns of Iceland” by Hörður Kristinsson, 2001]
Due to a very cold spring the plants list is shorter then usual.
5 Nootka Lupin
13 Field Forget-me-not
15 Oysterplant
18 Alpine Bartsia
20 Heath Dog-violet
21 Wild Pansy
24 Common Butterwort
41 Wild Thyme
55 Trailing Azalea
56 Water Avens
59 Heather
60 Moss Campion
61 Thrift
62 Lady Smock
68 Bilberry
69 Bog Bilberry
74 Sea Mayweed
76 Mountain Avens
79 Wild Strawberry
81 Sea Campion
82 Alpine Mouse-ear
86 Bogbean
89 Tufted Saxifrage
98 Common Mouse-ear
101 Sea Sandwort
107 Common Chickweed
112 Alpine Bistort
116 Stone Bramble
118 Rowan
119 Garden Angelica
121 Scots Lovage
125 Yarrow
128 Sea Rocket
129 Northern Rock-cress
136 Common Scurvygrass
142 Scottish Asphodel
143 Northern Bedstraw
148 Bearberry
155 White Clover
156 Marsh-marigold
157 Alpine Cinquefoil
158 Silverweed
159 Meadow Buttercup
160 Creeping Buttercup
162 Arctic Poppy
165 Biting Stonecrop
166 Annual Stonecrop
174 Roseroot
176 Lady's Bedstraw
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182
183
187
190
191
216
219
220
223
229
241
242
243
244
245
246
250
253
254
255
256
257
267
268
306
ICELAND 14-23 June 2015
Dandelion
Hawkwee
Colt's Foot
Alpine Lady's-mantle
Common Lady's-mantle
Mare's-tail
Field Horsetail
Shady Horsetail
Rough Horsetail
Common Moonwort
Dwarf Birch
Downy Birch
Dwarf Willow
Woolly Willow
Arctic Willow
Tea-leaved Willow
Sea Plantain
Common Sorrel
Sheep's Sorrel
Northern Dock
Mountain Sorrel
Frog Orchid
Juniper
Crowberry
Lyme-grass
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