VOLUMES
59
TO
73
Index
The Alpine Journal
1953-68
Compiled by D. F.
SBN
o.
9°°523
Dangar
04- 2
The Alpine Club, 74- South Audley Street, London, WI Y 5FF
Preface
The present volume of the Index to the Alpine Journal, the fourth in the series,
carries the Index from 1953 (Volume 59) to 1968 (Volume 73), the last year
before the change of the Journal into a single annual volume.
The proposal for this continuation of the consolidated Index was made in late
1968, when the Committee invited Mr D. F. O. Dangar to undertake it. His
willingness to do this in addition to the heavy burden of the Assistant Editorship of the Alpine Journal itself, and the speed with which he completed the
vast amount of work involved, are very greatly appreciated; and the Alpine
Club has recognised the outstanding contribution which he has made to the
objects of the Club, through his work both on the Alpine Journal and on successive volumes of the Index, by electing him to Honorary Membership.
The thanks of the Club are also due to Mrs Sarah Hollis for her work on the
typescript.
Charles Evans
President
May I970
Foreword
This Index has been compiled on the same basis as the previous volume, but,
to save space, the writers of obituaries and reviews have not been indexed.
In addition to portraits, illustrations that have been indexed are, in general,
those of single mountains or mountain ranges which are likely to be of geographical interest. Pictures of pitches, or small sections of a climb, high camps
and similar subjects have not been indexed: although of contemporary interest,
it is felt that such illustrations, which usually in any case are referred to in the
associated articles, can be omitted without serious detriment to the value of the
Index.
The following abbreviations have been used:
Aig. = Aiguille
asc. = ascent
C.A.F. = Club Alpin Fran<;ais
cr. = crossed, crossing
desc. = descent
gl. = glacier
ill. = illustration
Mt = Mount, Mont
Mte = Monte
N.Z. = New Zealand
O.A.V. = Osterreichischer Alpen
Verein
obit. = obituary
port. = portrait
Pt = Point
Pta = Punta
Pte = Pointe
recce = reconnaissance
ref. = reference
tr. = traverse, traversed
U.LA.A. = Union Internationale
des Associations d'
Alpinisme
U.LA.G.M. = Union lnternationale
des Associations des
Guides de Montagnes
vol. = volume
D. F. O. Dangar
May I970
Index to volumes 59 to 73
ABALAKOV,V.: port., 64 74
Abanico, Pico (Venezuela): 3rd asc., 67
284
4th, & 1St by SW face, 67 285, 337
Abi Gamin: 2nd asc., 60 174
3rd asc., 60 385
Abominable Snowman: discussion re, 60
297,6151,
lIO, 340
protective measures for, 62 179
seen in the Pamirs, 63 130
search for in Kulu, 63 223
found eating frogs, 63 259
on Mt Everest, 65 99
not found in the Pamirs, 65 99
seen on a gl., 66 167
search for in Rolwaling valley, 66 343
hitherto unrecorded mention of, 67 166
Abraham, G. D.: obit., 70 359
Abseiling: traditional methods of, 73 108
Accidents:
annual summaries of Alpine:
1955: 61 389
1961: 68 299
1956: 63130
1962: 61}135
1957: 64 122
1964: 71143
1958: 65 96
1965: 72 138
1959: 66 160
1966: 73 107
1960: 67159
1967: 73 256
in American mountaineering,
68 334
Aig. d' Argentiere, 66 394
Aig. Noire de Peuterey, 64 248
Aig. Verte, 69 290
Atna, 73 271
Casiri Este, 72 297
Cho Oyu, 65 90
Ecrins, 64 247, 65139
Gangchhen Ledrub, 69 125
Gross Glockner, 63 250
Khinyang Chhish, 67 342
Lauteraarjoch,
60 172
Matterhorn,
(1865) 61491,71
124,
(1959) 64 248
Mercedario, 65 242
Mt Cook, 60 382, 65 250, 69 300
Mt Kenya, 67 364
Mt McKinley, 60 176, 368,7391,268,
269
Mt Rolleston, 71319
Mukar Beh, 73 246
Petit Dru, 64 248, 66 376, 67 209
Phurbi Chyachumbu gl., 63 105
Pik Garmo, 67 342
Pumori, 67169
Rondoy, 69 113
Ruwenzori, 61 214
Saraghrar, 64 lI6
Tirich Mir, 67 352
Watzmann, 66 385
A
Achar Zorn II: 2nd asc. 73, 89
Aconcagua: 1St asc. by S face, 59463,
6017
height, 59463,61
549
exploration of E ridge, 61 540
notes on the history of, 71 261,72143
5th asc. by S face, 73 92
ill., S face (route of 1St asc.), 60 18,71
260-1,266
from NW, 71 260-1
W face showing normal route, 71
262
NNE face (routes), 71 264
WSW face (routes), 71 264
Adam, J. A. : his book: A Traveller's
Guide to Health, 71 339
Adam (Swat): asc., 70 208
Adamello group: crs. in, 69 280
Adare Saddle (Antarctica): cr., 73180
Adele, Cerro: 1St asc., 63 259
Afella n Ouanoukrim (Atlas): ascs., 67 67
Affentranger, 1.: his book: (with
A. Balliano) La Strada e Questa, 61 568
Afghanistan: Abinger expedition to,
1960,66139
maps of, 72 324
Africa: mountaineering
in, 62 104
see also p 55 below
Agassiz, L.: climbing career, 68 209
Agner, Mte: attempt, 70 300
Aguelzim (Atlas): asc., 67 67
Aguja Negra (Bolivia): 1st asc., 67 170
Aguja Nevada: 1St asc. of highest peak,
71 137
Aiada, Boechetta d': cr., 66 156, 368
Aids: artificial, 62 7-9, 46, 89,100
Aiguille, Mt:
1st asc.: by SE face, 62 176
by SW pillar, 70 251
by 'voie du 29 May', 70 252
ill., from Rochers du Parquet, 70
252-3
Ailama: by NW face, 64 246
Ailefroide :
Central Peak: 2nd asc. by N face, 61
541
ill., & arete Coste Rouge from Pic
Sans Nom, 61 89
Aircraft: in the Alps, 67 156, 68 300
in the Himalaya, 71 77
Airport: a glacier, 66 380
Air Rescue Service: at Zermatt, 66 160
Air transport: in the Alps, 60 378
Aitchison, 1. G.: obit., 70 360
Aitken, J. R.: obit., 70 362
Akela Qila: asc., 61 49
ill., with Twins & Ashagiri, 61 51
2
A
Akher Chioh (Hindu Kush): 1st asc.,
72 122,225
ill.,72210-II
Aksoual (Atlas): attempt, 71 45
ill., 71 260-1
Alack, F.: his book: Guide Aspiring,
73123
Ala Dag: ascs. in, 60 369
by NW ridge, 68 124
Alam Kuh: ascs. & tr., 6164
by N face, 61 65
ill., N face, N spur & NW ridge, 61 64
N face, 61 64-5
ice-curtain of NNW face, 6164-5
Alaska: ascs. in, 60 31, 65 252, 67 357,
68 320, 73 270
Parachute Brigade expedition to, 62 121
a visit to, 72 76
see also p 55 below
Albert, Pte: attempt by W face, 66 78
Albigna hut: opening of new, 63123
Alchori gl.: ascs. from, 65 40, 43
Ali Ratni Tibba: reece, 71 246
ill., 71244-5
Allain, P.: his book: L' Art de l'Alpinisme,
61425
Allegra, E.: port., 59 299
Allinccapac: attempts, 65 86
ascs., 66 150, 151
ill., 65 86, 87
Almer, Christian: port., 62 34
Alpamayo: 1st asc. of highest summit,
63260
attempt, 65 88, 221,69223
history, & 1st asc. by N ridge, 72 18
2nd asc., 73109
ill., from S, 69 94-5
W face, 69 212-13
N ridge, 72 30
Alpes Maritimes: climbs in, 6996
notes on, 70 281
frontier rectifications in, 71 143
ill., 70 284-5
Alphubel: by Westgrat, 61539,68
II6
by Rotgrat, 63 90, 92
attempt, 65 215
Alpine Climbing Group: aims &
constitution, 61 212
book: Selected Climbs in the Range of
Mont Blanc, 63 143,73 II7
1963 Bulletin reviewed, 68 331
and the Alpine Club, 72 197
Alpine Club:
membership anniversaries, 59 214,
343,64237,65224
founding of, 62 24, 64 239
minutes of early meetings, 62 25
Alpine Club:
early circulars, 62 26
original members, 62 27-9
correspondence re, 62 29
dining club, 62 37
jubilee, 62 76
pictures, 63 96
rejected candidates, 68 269, 69 139
its archives & their uses, 71 285
& the Alpine Climbing Group, 72 197
addresses by Presidents:
Elliott, 59 23 I
Herbert, 61 3
Hunt,64 I
Finch, 67 I
Somervell,70
I
Centenary:
plans for, 61 544
special number of A.J., vol. 62
corrections to, 63 134
Zermatt meet, 63 53, 87
dinner,6351
London dinner, 63 61
corrections to menu, 63 129
exhibition, 63 77
opening of, 63 75
reception, 63 80
poem,6395
gifts, 63 122
exhibitions:
59444
61 II8
gifts:
60 376, 386
64131,132
63 122
7°321
honorary members:
68 295
5986, 343,458
60376
7°320
61207
71 133
honours & awards:
59 86, 214, 343,458
67343
69135,282
60169,376
61387,544
70133,320
63122,250
71142,3°6
64121,237
72 133
6592
73106,235
66 159,380
Alpine Journal:
beginning of, 62 23
Farrar as editor, 62 61
notes on, 62 62, 66,68
Strutt as editor, 62 88
change of editor, 67 154,72320
centenary of publication, 68 128
cost of, 68 360
back numbers for sale, 72 365
proposed changes, 73 303
A
Alpine Club:
library, some acquisitions during 1954,
60145
meets:
Welsh centenary, 62 180
il1.,63 II8
Zermatt centenary, 63 53, 87
La Berarde, 1959, 64 260
Skye, 1960,65222
Saas Fee, 1960,66 154
obituary:
67200,378
5986,214,343,458
68163, 342
60169,376
612°7, 387, 544
69169,318
63122,250
70182,359
64121,279
7119°,343
65 133, 260
72184,355
66 182,419
73129,295
Pension Fund, 59 90
proceedings:
68363
59231,49°
60441
69332
61582
70383
63271
71 357
64299
72363
66196,427
73301
67409
Alpine farming: international cooperation to the rescue of, 65 235
Alpinisme: amalgamation with La
Montagne, 60 371
Alps: expeditions by guideless British
parties in 1953, 59 214
Lord Fisher &,59217
season of 1954 in, 59 461
British parties in 1961,66 373
Altar (Chile): asc., 6558
early ascs., 65 59
ill., from E, 65 55
Altar (Ecuador): 1st asc. of highest point,
69127,71
151
history, 71 151
Altitude: effect of high, on man, 61 507
women's record, 60 176,64 258, 66389
medical aspects of climbing at high,
6816
Alto de los Leones: ill., S face, 64 232
Arna Dablam: attempt, 64133,65
I
1st asc., 66 351
ill., from NW, 65 6
N ridge & NW spur, 65 8
from S, 66 348
S ridge, 66 348-9
& peaks over the Mera Col, 68 14-15
Arnatt, J.: 'The North face of
Trollryggen', 71 98
'Alpamayo, 1966',7218
3
Arnatt, J.:
'The North face direct of Sl'mdre
Trolltind', 73 I
Ambu Gyabjen: asc., 65 4
America: early ascs. in, 62 45
recent climbing in, 62 105
Spanish Pan-American expedition,
72317
see also p 55 below
Amery, L. S.: death, 60 376, 415
obit. & port., 61 189
Arniel (Uganda): 1st asc., 65 245, 69 228
il1.,69 228
Amji Rimal: asc., 68 203
Amni Machin: estimated height, 65 98
1st asc., 66 274
ill., 66 276
Anawakaluk (Baffin Island): attempt,
67109
Ancohurna: asc., 69 220
Andean journals: rev., 66176,68335,
70 175, 72 177
Andenmatten, Franz: biographical note,
70202
Anderegg, Jakob: his career, 66 89
Anderegg, Melchior: port., 62 34
Anderson, G.: obit., 67154
Andes:
ascs. : in Argentinian, 68 3 I 5, 70 125,
71138,72317
Bolivian, 67 170, 68 315, 70124,
72127,73 II9
Chilean,67 170, 353, 68 314, 70 141,
73 119
Colombian, 71 137,7392
new,67171
Patagonian,70
142, 72 147
Peruvian, 59 87, 64 260, 65 87,
68315,69125,70
124, 144,24°,
71137,72124,146,316,73
II8
Venezuelan, 68 317, 69126
early Indian, 73 83
in 1955-6,61391,543
in 1958, 64 125
notes, 60 387, 67 170, 353,72 146,
73 II8
geographical description, 60 69, 79,
280
bibliography, 60 77
massifs of, 60 284
mountaineering clubs in, 60 292
'first' ascs. in, 64 125
expeditions: Oxford, 1960,66 150
Japanese, 1960,66372
Schwabian, 1961,67166
Reading University, 1962,68219
map of Venezuelan, 69 122
4
A
Andes:
unclimbed 6000 m peaks of, 71 149
see also p 56-7 below
Andrews, A. N.: obit., 68163
Andrews, A. W.:
his book: Selected Poems on West
Penwith and Reflections, 63 139
corrections to his poems, 64 250
obit., 65 133
Angeles Nevado: 1st asc., 61 201
Ang Norbu: death, 65 90
Angour (Atlas): tr., 6765
ascs., 71 47, 49
ill., 71 30-1
Ang Tharkay: autobiography reviewed,
61226
Animals, Pass of the: cr., 71 243
Anjuman Pass: cr., 72 68
Annapurna I:
ill., from Annapurna South, 70236-7
from Camp 3 on Gangapurna, 71
78-9
Annapurna
60174
II: Japanese attempt,
1953,
British attempt, 1953,62 173
1st asc., 65 143
ill., 61 40-1
Annapurna III: 1st asc., 66 390
Annapurna IV: Japanese attempt, 1953,
60174
1st asc., 60 385
2nd asc., 62 173
3rd asc., 65 149
Annette, B. M.: 'Solo', 69233
Anniversaries: Alpine, 67 156
a Slovene, 67 160
Anniversary Peak (Alaska): attempt,
62127
Anogol Zorn: 1st asc., 73 89
Anrhemer: tr., 6770,7147
ill., 7131
Antarctica: Fuchs expedition, 61 208
ascs. in, 61548,64132
mountaineering in, 63 241, 67 226
highest mountain in, 63 261, 65 236
New Zealand expedition, 65 249
features named after A.C. members,
66166
proposed expedition to, 69 287
two highest summits climbed, 72 128
other ascs. in, 72 128
another active volcano in, 72 138
Hillary's expedition, 1967,73 173
see also p 57 below
Antisana: 1st asc. of SPeak, 70123
Anzacs (New Zealand): asc., 72 259
Aparejo, El.: ill., S face, 64 232-3
Api: reece, 59 423
possible 1st asc., 59462
1St asc., 65 246
ill., 59 424-5
Apolobamba, Cordillera de: ascs. in,
64 125,6588, 175
Arco, Cerro (patagonia): asc., 69 188
ill., 69 188-9
Arctic: see P 57 below
Arenales, Cerro: asc., 63 259, 69189
Argentiere, Aig. d': by N face, 60 370
accident, 66 394
Argentine:
Petit Diedre,
1st asc., 61
541
Argentino, Lago: visit to, 65158
Arichiri (Andes): 1st asc., 69 218
Arolla: motor road opened to, 65 232
Arolla, Pigne d': ski asc., 61 81
by N face, 66154
proposed teleferique, 67 345
Arrigetch group (Alaska): climbs in,
721°9
Artesonraju: 2nd asc., 71151
Arthur, H.R.H. Prince: port., 59 282,
83
2
Ascents: for T.V. and B.B.C., 72 243
Asgard, Mt (Baffin Island): attempt,
67107
ill., 67 102
Ashagiri: asc., 6151
Ashby, R. C.: obit., 68 342
'Ashenden': his book: The Mountains of
My Life, 60 187
Asia: see P 58 below
Asp-e-Safed: 1st asc., 66 247
Ass, a wise: 63127
Assiniboine, Mt: 1st asc. by N face,
7364,91,274
Atlas Mts: ascs. in, 66147,6765
access to, 67 71
winter expeditions to, 71 43, 275
history, 71 45
climbing notes from 1966, 71 279
Atna: 3rd asc., & accident, 73 271
Atter, Mt (Greenland): asc., 72 52
origin of name, 7246
1St asc. 72 46
ill., 72 30-1
Attlee, C. G.: obit., 61 357
Aufschnaiter, P.: note: Langtrang Himal,
69287
Aultllicke: I st cr., 59 457
Aura, an Alpine: 63 I
Aurona, Pas so d': cr., 66 155, 386
correction re, 67 346
Ausangate: attempt, 6440
ill., 64 38
B
Austen, Jane: quotation from Pride and
Prejudice, 68 362
Austin, J. A.: climbs in the Lake
District, 65 101,67 172
Australia: mountains of the central
desert, 67 313
notes, 70 337, 72148
see also p 63 below
Avalanches: mechanism of release, 70 57
correction re, 70 322
suggested cause of, 71 3 I I
how to estimate the danger of, 72 87
Axel Heiberg gl. (Antarctica): desc.,
67347
Ayers Rock (Australia): asc., 67316
ill., 67 314
Ayrton, R.: 'Summer 1963 with Gaston
Rebuffat', 69 95
'Alpes Maritimes', 70 281
Azema, M. A.:
his books: La Conquete du Fitz-roy,
59467
The Conquest of FitzRoy, 61 569
Azrou n Tamadout (Atlas): 67 70
Azucarani Peak: asc., 65 177
BACHARACH,
A. L.: his book: (with O. G.
Edholm) Exploration Medicine, 70 347
Bacone, Piz: by N ridge, 64 262
Badile, Piz:
NE face: attempt, 59 208
ascs., 60 375, 61385,64270,66375,
68293, 70 301
1st British, 61 385
by N ridge, 61 541,64262
a storm on, 67 34
by new route on NE face, 73 254
Badile, Torrione del: 1St winter asc., 73
254
Baffin Island: Cambridge expedition to,
1961,6797
Bailey, C.: obit., 63102
Baillie, R.: 'The Fairest Cape', 69103
'The Right-hand Pillar of Brouillard',
7168
Ball, John: port., 62 16
Balliano, A.: his book: (with L.
Affentranger) La Strada e Questa,
61568
Ball's Pyramid: attempt, 70136
1st asc., 70 327
Balston, F. W.: obit., 70182
Baltoro Kangri: 1st asc. of highest peak,
68306
Band, G. C.: 'Kangchenjunga
climbed',
60 207
his book: Road to Rakaposhi, 61 218
5
Bandar Punch: attempt, 60174
asc., 69 203
Black Peak, attempt, 69 205
Banff-Jasper Highway: 59 33
Banks, M. E. B.: 'Struggle for
Rakaposhi', 61 449
'Two North American expeditions',
71 19
his books: Commando Climber, 61 419
Rakaposhi,65 113
Snow Commando, 67 191
port., 61 456, 63 165
Banner, H.l.: his book: (with P. Crew)
Clogwyn du'r Arddu, 68332
Banyang Peak (Himalaya): 1st asc., 73 249
Baring, Mt: by N face, 66 143
ill.,66 144-5
Barker, G.: obit., 73 133
Barker, R.: his book: The Last Blue
Mountain, 65 113
Barneby, T. P.: his book: European
Alpine Flowers in Colour, 73 125
Barrow, W.: obit. & port., 59 448
Barry, Martin: career, 59 19
Bartrum, G. L.: obit., 65 260
Barun Saddle: 59 16, 17
Barun valley: expedition to, 1953,60227
ill., 61 24-5
Baruntse: 1st asc., 59462,60234
Basset, A.: obit., 60149
Basso, Campanile:
ill., & Campanile Alto, 66 308
from SW, 66 308-9
from E, 66 308-9
Batkin, J.: death, 72 325, 329
Battle, Mt (Baffin Island): asc., 67 102
ill., 67 110
Batu Mts (Ethiopia): note on, 61 347
ascs. in, 64 217
Batura group: accident, 64 245
Batura Muztagh: expedition to, 65 48
Bauer, P.:
his books: Das Ringen um den Nanga
Parbat I8S6-I9S3, 60181
Kangchenjunga Challenge, 60 422
The Siege of Nanga Parbat, I8S6I9S3, 61 422
Baume, L.: 'The South Georgia Survey,
1955-6',61465
Baume, P. A.: obit., 68 342
Bazarrabusa, T. B.: obit., 71 343
port., 71 348
Bears: in the Alps, 72 323
Beauman, E. B.: 'The Centenary meet at
Zermatt', 63 53
Beaumont, Pte: E face: 1st asc., 63119
Bechtold, F.: death, 66 388
6
B
Beckey, F.: 'Climbs in Alaska, 1954',
6031
Beetham, B.: obit., 68 343
Beletsky, E.: 'Mountaineering in the
U.S.S.R.', 61310
Dennen, J. J.: correct spelling of, 72133
Bennett, C. F.: obit., 67 200
Bere, R. M.: his book: The Way to the
Mountains of the Moon, 71 324
Bergell: ascs. in, 1959,64262
note on, 64 263
Berglistock: 1st asc., 59 54
Bernardi, A.:
his books: Il Gran Cervino, 69 310
II Monte Bianco: dalle Esplorazioni
alla Conquista (I09I-I786), 71 171
Bernd, E.: death. 7115,316
Bernese Oberland: old & new climbs in,
72289
Bernina, Piz: 3rd asc., 63 47
attempt in 1863, 6347
Bernina group: ascs. & crs. in, 66 156, 376
Bezingi Horseshoe: tr., 71312,7257
ill., from last summit, Lialver, 72 58
some summits of, 72 62-3
panorama from near summit of
Dych Tau, 72 320
Bhattacharjya, B.: his book: Mountain
Sickness, 70 167
Bhiundar Khal: cr., 60 260
Bhulu Lhasa (Nepal): asc., 70 260
Bhutan Himal: expeditions to, 70 106,
71281,72264
note on the mountains of, 70 118
highest mountain in, 72 325
ill., 70 110-II, 71 282, 72 321
See also p 59
Biafo-Hispar gl. system: tr., 61543
Bietschhorn: 1st desc. by S face, 59 465
ill., 59 203
Big Ben (Heard Island): attempt, 68 300
1st asc., 70 125, 273
ill., 70 276-'7
Biiguinoussene (Atlas): tr. by NW
ridge, 67 66
Bilafond La: cr., 63188,192
Bill, A. L.: obit., 60 150
Biner, Bernard: obit. & port., 70 378
Bionnassay, Aig. de: asc., 61 71
Birchall, M.: death, 72127,297
Bird, L. W.: obit., 67 201
Birunga volcanoes: activity in, 64 257
Bismarck gl.: il1.,61 276, 277
Bispen: il1.,E face, & Kongen, 73 63
Bisson brothers: their mountain photography,62 157
Biwi Giri: 1st asc., 64 88
Blacker, L. V. S.: death, 69 282
Blacker, W.: mountaineering career,
61 354
Blackshaw, A.: 'United Kingdom notes,
1955',61403
'United Kingdom notes, 1956',61552
'Jangi Tau', 64 70
'The first exploration of the South
Staunings', 66 254
his book: Mountaineering, 71167,
73284
becomes editor of AlpineJournal, 72
320
Blaitiere, Aig. de: by NW ridge, 59 65,
60370,6678,151
by new route on W face, 59 461, 60
165,61 540,63245,64261,6995
by E face, 61 540
by SE ridge, 64267
attempt by W face, 67 38
by new route on W face of N summit,
72131
ill., N summit & NW ridge from
Grands Charmoz, 59 68
W face, 60 165
Blakeney, T. S.:
'Mountaineering and the British
Royal Family' 59 278
'Some notes on A. F. Mummery', 60
118
'Alpine Club Library. Some acquisitions during 1954',60 145
'The first ascent of the Trifthorn', 61
348
'Two early mountaineers, Chapman
and Blacker', 61 352
'The first ascent of the Matterhorn',
61493
'The rise of modern mountaineering,
1854-65',6216
'The opening of the Centenary exhibition', 63 75
'Eckenstein: the man and the climber',
6571
'John Thorn: mountaineer', 65199
'Early ascents of Mont Blanc; some
biographical footnotes', 66 316
'Failed A.C.', 68 269
'Old Peter Taugwalder, 1820-88',70
26
'The Matterhorn: a diary of events
after the disaster of 1865', 70 199
'Maurice Wilson and Everest, 1934',
70269
'A Tibetan name for Everest', 70 304
'A word for Whymper: a reply to
Sir Arnold Lunn', 71 I I I
B
Blakeney, T. S.:
'The Alpine Club archives and their
uses', 71 285
'The ascent of Chomolhari', 72 304
notes: C. E. Engel's History of
Mountaineering, 5999
G. E. Marindin, 59 214
an unrecorded expedition of
Mummery's,
59 216
early descents of the Schalligrat,
59217
Lord Fisher and the Alps, 59217
Sherlock Holmes and the Theodule
Pass, 59 345
the first ascent of Elbruz., 59460
Alpine chronicles, 59465
Coolidge and Mummery, 61211
Hadow's boots, 63 124
Dr F. A. Cook and Mt McKinley,
63251
Whymper and the Taugwalders,
6594
a tour Centenary, 68 134
a disputed ascent, 68 139
honorary members, 68 295
S.A.C. Centenary, 69 138
Winthrop Young papers, 69 138
failed A.C., 69 139
Alpine chronicles, 69 140
early proposals to climb Everest,
69143
Nilkanta again, 69 145
Sir Winston Churchill, 70 134,
322
Whymper and Southend, 70 135
South Georgia, 70 327
Mount Everest and the monsoon,
70328
Whymper and the Royal Society,
71308
Mont Blanc: first ascent by an
English woman, 72 134
Bennen or Benet, 72 133
Frank Smythe and Graham Brown,
72135
Tilman and Mischief, 72 144
G. L. Mallory, 73 265
Blanc, Mt: Brenva route: ases., 63 246,
6681
Sentinelle Rouge: ascs., 61 75, 66151
attempt, 59 325
1st winter asc., 66 385
Route Major: ascs., 67153,7397
1st winter ase., 60171
Via delia Pera: winter attempt, 61547
ase., 6671
1st winter asc., 70 326
7
Blanc Mt.:
Peuterey ridge: ases., 59 402,60373,
6665,7397
3rd complete ase., 66 261
Freney: 1st ase. by Central Pillar of,
66372,67
113
attempts & fatal storm on, 67112
1st ase. by route to right of North
Pillar of, 67 152
1st winter asc. by Central Pillar of,
72322
lnnominata ridge: 1st winter ase.,
60 171
attempt, 66 68
Brouillard: new variation on ridge,
64, 269
date of Harris-van Noorden ase.,
69140
1st ase. by Right-hand Pillar of,
7°315,7168,3°4
various ascs., 67 221,225
M. Barry's, 59 19
E. J. Clark's, 59 264
from Aig. de Bionnassay,61
71
Erasmus GaIton's, 61 102
1st by a dog, 61 393
by a member of the College of
Cardinals, 64 243
by a blind man, 65 97
new information re 1st ase., 67 230
in the massif of, 67 338, 68 125,
292,69277
1st by an English woman, 72134
an American, 72 327
double tr., 60 373
around, in four days, 66 78
biographical footnotes to early ases.,
66316
physiological expedition to, 66 161
notes on illustrations of ascs. of, 68 215
early refs. in America, 69 285, 70 324,
71309
prints of de Saussure's ase., 69142
geological map of massif, 70 352
ill., N slopes from Aig. du Midi, 62
44-5
& Aigs. of Chamonix from the Dru,
6268
the Gamba amphitheatre,
62 84
Brenva face from Col de la Fourche,
6284-5
from Mt Blanc du Tacul, 66 78-9
from Col de la Seigne, 66 78-9
from S, 66 268
Freney face from Pta Gugliermina,
67 lI8
Central Pillar of, 67 118-9
8
B
Blanc, Pierre: memories of, 70 222
obit·,7r. 146
Blanc de Seilon, Mt: by N face, 65 89
Blanc du Taeul, Mt:
by Gervasutti Couloir, 60 374
1st British ase., 73 10
1st ase., 7r. 131
other ases., 73 97
Blanca, Cordillera: ases. in, 60 176, 383,
65220,6988
Blanche, Dent.: by W face, 67 215
1st winter ase. by N ridge, 68 299
2nd ase. by N face, 7r. 310
a cross on, 72 135
Blanco, Nevado: ase., 69 51
Blasenliieke (W): 1st tourist cr., 59457
Blind mountaineers:
ases. by, 65 97, 70
134
Blodig, K.: ninety-fifth birthday,
60170
obit. & port., 6r. 524
Blow, J. E.: death, 59 214
Blumental: port., 59441
Bobbie Burns group: ases. in, 65 25
Bohren, Gottfried: death, 68 300
Bois de Chesne, A.: obit., 59 332
Boktoh: attempt, 59 318
ill., 59 318
Bolivar, Pieo: asc., 67 284
Bolts: as used in Australia, 72 149
Bona, Mt: 3rd asc., 6r. 202
4th asc., 72 332
ases. in the area, 73 270
Bonaeossa, A.: 'Reminiscences',
70 218
Bonatti, W.:
his books: Ames Montagnes, 68 153
On the Heights, 70 172
Bonington, C. J. S.: 'The North faces
of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo', 65
182
'The modern rappel; a study in
sanity', 66 367
'The Central Pillar of Frllney', 67 II I
'Notes on equipment and technique',
67 332, 69 271
'The Central Tower of Paine', 68 179
his book: I Chose to Climb, 72 162
Books: some early mountaineering,
62
43,48,66
Bouleau Mountain: note on, 6r. 215
Bouquetins, Dents des: 2nd complete
tr., 66 380
Bourdillon, J. : her book: Visit to the
Sherpas, 6r. 423
Bourdillon, R. B.: 'Everest, 1953. The
closed circuit oxygen apparatus',
59238
Bourdillon, T. D.: 'Everest, 1953. The
closed circuit oxygen apparatus',
59238
'The oxygen apparatus in action',
59247
note: the Alpine Climbing Group,
6r. 212
obit. & port., 6r. 357, 521
Bourrit, M. T.: his life & climbs, 68 206
Bove, Mt (Tierra del Fuego): ase., 68
233
Bovet, Abbe: his dog's adventure, 70
223
Bovet, Beeea: 1st recorded ase. from E,
73254
Bowden, F. P.: death, 73 295
Bowdler, Thomas: Alpine journey,
1779,62 137
Bowen, H. C.: obit., 6r. 523
Bowman, W. E.: his book: The Ascent
of Rum Doodle, 6r. 422
Bozman, E. F.: obit., 73 295
Bradley, M. G.: obit., 68 164, 344
Braham, T. H.: 'The Cambridge
University expedition to Spiti,
1955', 6r. 296
'Swat and Indus Kohistan', 68 251
Brahma I: attempt, 7r. 137
Brailsford, S.: his book: (with E. A.
Wrangham) Selected Climbs in the
Dauphine Alps and Vercors, 73 288
Braldu Brakk: ase., 64 179
Brasher, C. W.: his book: (with Sir J.
Hunt) The Red Snows, 65114
Bregaglia: ases. in, 1962,67340
Breithorn, Lauterbrunnen:
from Klein
Breithorn, 66 87
Breithorn (Swat): ase., 70 210
Breithorn (Zermatt): by Younggrat, 6r.
54,70 297
asc., 6r. 83
by Klein Triftje, 63 87, 243
by TriftjigrOlt, 63 92
Brenta Alta: ases., 69133
Brenta, Campanile Basso di: asc., 66 304
Brenta, Crozzon di: asc., 67 275
by N face, 69 133
ill., 67 276
Brenva, Aig. de 101: by E face, 60 167,
6r. 74
BrettelI, F. G.: obit., 70 364
British Isles notes: 6r. 403, 552, 65101,
67 172,70146, 7r. 154,72 151
See also p 54 below
Broad Peak: attempt, 60 176
1st asc., 63 131
Broekedon, W.: note on, 73 :\59
B
Brocklebank, T. A.:
note: Rapiu La, 64 242
stoves, 68 135
Brooke, F. R.: 'Oberlandjourney,
1956',
61334
'The ascent of Rakaposhi', 63 159
note: Kilimanjaro, 68 301
Brooks range (Alaska): ascs. in, 70 332
Brouillard, Pillars of:
ill., from just below Col du Freney,
7162-3
Right-hand Pillar (routes), 71 305
Broun, A. F.: obit., 59 83
Brown, F. A. Y.: biographical note,
70202
Brown, H. M.: 'The High Atlas in
winter', 71 43
'Return to the Atlas', 71275
Brown, J.: his book: The Hard Years,
73 122
Brown, T. Graham: 'Everest', 59 103
'The Wetterhorner',
59179
his books: (with G. R. de Beer) The
First Ascent of Mont Blanc, 62
184
La Prima Ascensione del Monte
Bianco, 66 407
Lord Tangley's appreciation, 71 51
bequests, 71 308
& Frank Smythe, 72 135
port., 62 84-5
obit. & port., 71 191
Browne, B. : his book: The Conquest of
Mount McKinley, 61415
Brujo, EI (Andes): 1st asc., 6557
Bruneggjoch: 1st cr., 61548
Brussels, Mt: 4th asc., 70 333
Bruyere, arete de la: tr., 64 263
asc., 67 159
Bryant, L. V.: his book : New Zealanders
and Everest, 59 354
obit., 63 229
port., 60 402
Bryce, Mt: history of, 72 142
Buckland, M t (Tierra del Fuego): 1st
asc., 71 313
Bugaboos: ascs. in, 6519,66140,71318,
73 251, 274
ill., from N, 65 22
granite peaks of the group from
Brenta Spire, 73 245
Bugaboo Spire: 2nd asc. by E ridge,
6519
by E face, 66 140
ill., E face, 66 145
Buhl, H.: 'The ascent of Nanga Parbat',
59384
Buhl, H.: his books: 8000 Driiber Und
Drunter, 60 185
Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage, 61 572
death, 62 182
Bullard, F. M.: his book: Volcanoes in
History, in Theory, in Eruption,
68149
Bullock, G. H.: 'Diary of the Everest
expedition, 1921',67130,291
obit., 61 361
Bullock, H. S.: obit., 68 166, 345
Buni Zorn district: ascs. in, 71 136
Bunnell, F. J.: his book: Rock Climbing
Guide to Hong Kong, 65119
Burgener, Alexander: port.,
70 14-15
Burke, M.: 'The good guys v. the
mountain', 73 43
Burkett, Mt (Coast Range): attempts,
71298
Burley, M.: 'Climbing in the Antarctic',
67226
Burman, J.: his book: A Peak to climb:
the Story of South African
Mountaineering, 72 169
Burney, Mt (Patagonia): attempt to
reach, 67 267
journey round, 68 230
Busk, D. L.: 'Elizabeth Peak, Ruwenzori', 59 268
'Further notes on the Ruwenzori', 59
407,60105
'Kilimanjaro', 60 96
'The Simien and Batu ranges in
Ethiopia', 61 344
'A new map of the Ruwenzori Peaks',
6460
'The first rappel: a study in vanity',
66365
'The Sierra Nevada de Merida', 67
280
'Venezuelan notes', 68 317
'A map of the Andes of Venezuela',
69 122
'Two faces', 72 232
notes: Ronald Ladkin, 60 382
Ruwenzori, 61 214, 65 98
a map of the Central Elburz,
63207
Ethiopia, 69 286
his book: The Fountain of the Sun,
63141
Busk, Miss M.: death, 73 107
Busazza: by W face, 68 20
by S face, 68 226
Byam-Grounds,
J.: note: a cross on
the Dent Blanche, 72 135
9
10
C
Byne, E. : note: climbs in the Peak
District, 65 104, 67 176
his book: (with G. Sutton) High
Peak,72 167
obit., 73 266
CACACCAPAC:
tr., 66151
Caeca Aca, Nevado: ill., NW face, 6449
Cake, the (S Georgia): asc., 61 469
Calanques: climbs in the, 6995
Caldwell, ].: his book: The Cross-country
Ski Book, 7°352
Calino, Pizzo: 1st asc. by SE ridge, 66 155
Calvo gl.: ill., 61 276-7
Calzada group (Andes): ascs. in, 68 220
Camel (Alaska): asc., 72 115
Campbell, P. A.: Kenya and
Tanganyika notes, 68 325
Canada: climbing in Quebec Province,
64129
ascs. in, 65 252
celebration of centenary of Confederation, 72 142
see also p 56 below
Can-can, Nevado: asc. 70 242
Canonigo: 1st asc., 71152
Canti, E.: port., 59 299
Capitan, El: 1st asc. by Muir Wall,
71 318
ill., 71 220
Capucin, Grand: N face: 1st asc., 60 373
E face: 9th asc., 60 373
solo asc., 64 268
other ascs., 60 373, 61 542,63246,
64261,66
152,6790,69
132
S face: 1st asc., 61542
Capucin du Requin, Petit: by NW face,
63120
Carabaya, Cordillera de: ascs. in, 72 124,
73253
Cardinal, Ie: 1st asc. by W face, 70 314
Caribou Mts: ascs. in, 68 321
Carol, Pico: asc., 66 151
Carr, ]. D.: death, 63 122
Carr, H. R. C.: 'Some notes on Swiss
prints and illustrations in accounts
of ascents of Mont Blanc (to 1853)',
68212
note: an eighteenth-century
chamois
hunter, 67 16o
Carr-Saunders,
A. M.: 'The Club's
pictures', 63 96
note: Alpine pictures, 64 129
obit., 72 184
Carrell, G. N.: 'The Alpine Club
Photographic Exhibition, 1953',
59444
Carrell, G. N.:
'The Alpine Club Photographic
Exhibition, 1955',61118
'Centenary Exhibition', 63 77
'The Alpine Club Photographic
Exhibition, 1961',67181
Carslake, W. B.: obit., 65 135
Carstensz massif: ascs. in, 68 84
ill., 68 86-7
Carter, A. C.: 'A winter expedition to
the Spanish Sierra Nevada', 68 61
Cascade, Mur de la: by Voie Chandelier,
61542
Cascade Range: ascs. in, 68 321, 70 333
Cashan Oeste: 1st asc., 73118
Casiri Este: asc. & accident, 72 297
Castor: asc., 6185
Cathedral Peak: ill., with Lapworth
Peak from Sermitsia g!., 68 257
Cathedral Spires (Alaska): ascs. in, 72
33°
Catinaccio: ascs., 69134
Caucasus: A. W. Moore's diary of 1874
expedition, 60 305, 61 123
ascs. in, 63 117, 246, 64 130, 67 54, 152
see also p 54 below
Caukwell, R. A.: Kenya and Uganda
notes, 69 304
Kenya and Tanzania notes, 71 321,
72336
Cavales, Pic Nord des: by W ridge,
60374
Cawood, A. H.: port., 7°14-15
Cayambe: 6th asc., 70123
Cayesh, Nevado: 1st asc., 66164, 199
ill., from S, 66 204
W face (route), 66 204-5
from slopes of Condor, 66 206
Ccapana: 1st asc., 64 39
Ccollapachinachuman:
ascs., 69 48
Centenaries: in 1954,59344
in 1955,60 173
in 1956,61211,391
alpine equipment, 69 241
Central Peak (Swat Kohistan): attempt,
68259
asc., 70 208
Chabod, R.: his book: The Centenary of the
Italian Alpine Club, 70 161
Chachacomani: attempt, 68 222
Chacraraju: 1st asc., 61 543
1st asc. of peak north of, 69 92
2nd asc., 70 124, 144
ill., lower peak from SE ridge, 60 72
from summit of Pisco, 60 73
from Huandoy, 60 82
Chacraraju East: 1st asc., 68 124
C
Chainapuerto: attempt, 70 240
Chair Ladder (Cornwall): escape from
drowning at, 73 216
Challis, D. H.: 'Cordillera Real, 1966',
77, 292
Chamlang: 1st asc., 67 351
Chamonix: early ascs. from, 67, 12
guide system, 67,42
tr. of the Aigs., 63 244, 66 375, 67 38
ascs. in the Aigs. of, 73 98
Chane Kuh: ascs., 61 63-4
Chanez, -: port., 59 299
Changtse: iII., from W ridge of Everest,
6C)14-15
Chapman, K. A.: mountaineering career,
61352
Chapiitschin, Fuorcla dal: I st recorded
cr., 63 48
Chardonnet, Aig. du: by Forbes arete,
63245
by N face, 66 152
ill., 67,44-5
Charim Kokero (Himalaya): asc., 73 250
Charmoz, Aig. des Grands: by NW
ridge, 59 207
by Republique ridge, 60 371
by Mer de Glace face, 67 217
Charmoz, Petits: by NW buttress, 66 152
Chaukamba: 2nd asc., 65 90
Chaytor, H. J.: death, 60169
Chearoco, Nevado: asc., 68 222
ill., 68 224-5
Cheng, Chou: 'The ascent of Shisha
Pangma', 69 211
Chephren, Mt (Rockies): 1st asc. by
E face, 71 318
ChevalIey, G.: his book: (with R.
Dittert and R. Lambert) AvantPremieres a ['Everest, 59 352
Chiantar Central Peak: 1st asc., 73 209
Chiantar gI. (Hindu Kush): expedition
to region of, 73 207
nameless peaks ascended from, 73 210,
213
ill., peaks of, 73 212-13
Chiantar, Little: 1st asc., 73 209
Chichibu, Prince: correspondence re,
77, 194
death, 59 86
Chichiccapac: ascs. 65 85, 86
Chikar Zorn: 1st asc., 77, 122,23°
Chilean Cordillera Central: description
of, 64 228
bibliography, 64 235
maps, 64236
climbs in, 6553
new refuge in, 65 242
2
II
Chilean notes: 65 241, 68 314, 70141
Chimborazo: British ascs., 64 241, 65 98
China: and the Tibetan frontier claims,
65238
Chinchey, Nevado: asc., 65 220
Chitral: German 1965 expedition to,
71215
recce into NE, 73 55
Chittan Wangdi: port., 67 299
Chocetacarpo: 2nd asc., 69 45
Chogolisa: 1st asc., 64134, 168
ill., 64 169
Chogo Lungma gI.: recce, 65 41
Chomolhari: 1st asc., 77,304
ill., 67 134-5
Chomo-Lanzo: 1st asc., 60 384
iII., from slopes of 21,500 ft peak,
6023°-1
from S of Kama Chii, 67 298
Cho 6yu: 1952 expedition, 59 9
1st asc., 60175,239
attempt & accident, 65 90
3rd asc., 69 289
ill., from above Nangpa La, 59 12
& Gyachung Kang, 5914
from Base Camp, 60 242
the summit, 60 247
Chopicalqui: 1st asc. from Dltatal, 67166
Cho Polu: asc., 60 237
Cho Rapzang: ill., from the Nangpa La,
5915
Chorley, R. R. E.: 'Climbs at Zermatt,
Chamonix and Courmayeur', 59 23
'To the Monk's Head on Rakaposhi',
6048
Chouinard, Y.: 'Modern Yosemite climbing', 71 219
Christaturm: by E face direct, 70 248
Christoffel, D.: his book: La Montagne
dans [a Peinture, 69157
Chubb, H. E.: obit., 65138
Chucullani: asc., 70 243
Chugach Range: ascs. in, 67 357, 73 271
Chugan Bashi: attempt, 67 55
ChuglIaraju: 1st asc., 67166
Chukhung Peak: asc., 59 110,135
Chumik gI.: exploration of, 66 149
Churchill, Mt (Alaska): 2nd asc., 77,332
Churchill, Sir Winston: mountaineering
achievements, 70 134, 322
mountains named after, 71 149
Chwascinski, B.: 'The Polish expedition
to the Hindu Kush, 1960',66235
'The exploration of the Hindu Kush',
71 199
note: Polish mountaineering clubs,
67 161
u
C
Cia e Hendevade (Turkey): by N face,
72 119
Ciarforon: by N face, 72 319
Cilo Mts (Turkey): ascs. in, 70 313,
72 129
ill., Resko from Maunsell's Peak,
70285
Suppa-Durak,71
158-9
Cipreses valley (Chile): ascs. from, 65 241
Citlaltepetl: asc., 70 55
ill., 70 54-5
City of London, the: and exploration,
7°323
Civetta, Mte: NW face:
Solleder route: asc. 68 21, 226
1St winter asc. 68 299,
Philipp-Flamm
route: asc., 68 227
Clark, E. J.: asc. of Mt Blanc, 59 264
date of death, 68 299
Clark, L.: his book: The Marching Wind,
61 221
Clark, R. W.:
his books: The Victorian Mountaineers,
59359
Six Great Mountaineers, 61 569
A Picture History of Mountaineering,
61577
An Eccentric in the Alps, 64 271
(with E. C. Pyatt) Mountaineering
in Britain, 64 275
The Day the Rope Broke, 70 159
Clark, S. G. McH.: 'Two on the
Peuterey', 61 472
his book: The Puma's Claw, 64146
Clarke, L. W.: obit., 61526
Clarke, M. N.: note: the mountaineer
and the law, 61 209
Cleare, J.: 'An introduction to Swanage',
66 299
'Climbing assignments', 72 243
note: expedition film work on high
mountains, 73 40
his book: (with T. Smythe) Rock
Climbers in Action in Snowdonia,
71 335
Cliff, B.: 'The North-east Pillar of
Nelion', 69 259
Climbing: technique of artificial, 60 37,
in Yosemite, 71 219
some reflections on modem, 72 15
Clocher de Planreuse, Petit: an umbrella
on, 65 96
Clogwyn du'r Arddu: ill., 62 92
Cloud formation: a strange, 69 291
Clough, I. S.: 'The season of plenty',
6730
'The Wall of Walls', 68 20
Clough, I. S.:
'Eigerwand, 1962',6829
'Gaurisankar, 1964',7096
'The first ascent of the Fortress and
future prospects in the Cordillera
del Paine', 73 143
Clubs:
Alpine Ski: 50th anniversary, 63 256
note on, 73 107
Austrian Alpine: 80th birthday, 64 121
& O.A.V., 64 242
Austrian Alpine Verein: centenary,
67344
Canadian Alpine: 50th anniversary,
61388
centenary expedition, 73 18,273
Finnish Alpine: formation, 68 135
French Alpine: international meet,
7236
membership, 73 256
Italian Alpine: centenary, 68 297,
69 136
Ladies Alpine: 50th anniversary, 61 548
Mountain Club of South Africa:
75th anniversary, 72 133
New Zealand Alpine: Himalayan
dinner, 61 213
75th anniversary, 71 142,319
Norske Tindeklub; 50th anniversary,
63262
60th anniversary, 73 106
Polish mountaineering, 67161
Swiss Alpine: fete centrale, 64 121
centenary, 68 127,69 136
election of President, 70 134, 73 106
membership, 70 135, 73 106
Swiss Women's Alpine: 50th anniversary, 73 255
Tourist Klub Skala: 40th anniversary,
67 160
Turkish Alpine: reactivated, 72 324
Coast Range: ascs. in, 68 320
proposed expedition to, 70 139
expedition to, 71 296
correspondence re expeditions to,
72195
Coaz, J.: his climbs, 68 210
Cochran, N. J.: death, 64 247
obit., 65 139
Cochrane, Torre Norte del (Andes):
1St asc., 72 147
Cocuy, Andes of: geographical features,
6333
history of mountaineering in, 63 36
expedition to, 63 38
bibliography, 63 42
ascs. in, 65 220
C
Coddington, E.: obit., 72 355
Cole, J.: 'West Nepal expedition, 1964',
7°254
Colgrove, J. B.: port., 70 14-15
Colledge, R. L. B.: 'The Brioschi route
on the Macugnaga face of Nordend',
59203
'Three climbs from Chamonix', 64
200
Collomb, R. G.:
his books: A Dictionary of Mountaineering, 64 145
(with P. Crew) Selected Climbs in
the Mont Blanc Range, vols. I
& II, 72 347
(with J. O. Talbot) Bernina Alps,
73285
Selected Climbs in the Pennine Alps
(vols. I & 11),73286
Maritime Alps: Vesubie Basin and
Argentera, 73 290
Colombia: expeditions to the Andes of,
62 179, 63 38, 133,64244
Colorado: Rockies of, 71 26
bibliography, 71 35
Communism,
Peak of: asc., 68 244
ill., from Garmo gl., 68 94
from upper basin of Vavilova gl.,
6894-5
S face, 68 248--9
Concavo, El.: ill., from N, 63 39
Concha, La: asc., 67 285
Condor: ascs., 66 204
Conner, Mt (Australia): asc., 67 320
ill., 67 315
Conrad, Mt (Bugaboos): by N ridge,
6525
Consolation Peak (Swat Kohistan): asc.,
68261
Controversies, Alpine: centenary survey
of, 62 144
Tyndall & Stephen, 62 47
Conway, Lord: & Illimani, 60 172
Cook, Dr F. A.: & Mt McKinley, 63 251
Cook, Mt: accident, 60 382, 65 250,
69300
by new routes, 61 330, 72 334
1st asc. by E face, 67 165
avalanche on, 68 136
1st asc. by S face, 68 323
history, 69 262
1st by Japanese & other ascs., 70 334,
72260
ill., air view of E face, 69196-7
W (Hooker) face, 69 196--7
SE (Caroline) face, 69 197
Cooke, H. E.: obit., 6S 261
13
Coolidge, W. A. B.: Lunn's memories
of, 60 437
& Mummery, 61211
& the Aig. Verte, 67 158
Cooper, Mt (Selkirks): 1st asc., 68 321
Cooperation, Peak (Pamirs): 1st asc.,
6896
ill., 68 94-5
Copapamparaju:
1st asc., 69125
Copeland, F. S., note: a Slovene
anniversary, 67 16o
Coraie, Forcella delle: cr., 61 206
Corlett, W. E.: obit., 6S 229
Cornice Peak (Himalaya): asc., 64178
Cornier, Grand: by S face & SW ridge,
63 121
1st winter asc. by NE face, 72322
Cornish, C. C.: obit., 70 365
Corno di Campo: asc., 70 220
Cortaderas group (Chile): 1st asc. of
unnamed rock peak in, 65 241
Cotopaxi: note re 1st asc., 68 303
Couloir Peak: by E wall, 61381
Courmayeur:
in 1913, S9 299
Courtauld, A.: obit., 64 279
Courtauld, S. L.: obit., 73 135
Courtes, Les: tr., 59 324
by Aig. Qui Remue buttress, 61 203
Couzy, J.: death, 64127
Coverley-Price,
V.: his book: An Artist
among Mountains, 61 578
poem: Alpine Centenary, 63 95
Cox, A. D. M.: 'Mists on Mont Blanc',
617°
'The Matterhorn
Centenary', 707
becomes Editor of Alpine Journal, 67
154
relinquishes Editorship of Alpine
Journal, 72320
Crampons: in a 15th-century campaign,
73257
Crawford, C. G.: note: Minya Konka,
63 130
obit., 64 280
Crawford, L. : ascent of Thamserku, 70 93
Creag Meaghaidh: note on, 6S 190
Crete: hut in the White Mountains,
63258
mountains of, 6S 208
ill.,65212-13
Crew, P.: 'Vertigo, 1962',68 225
'The British Cerro Torre expedition,
1967-8',73186
his books: (with H. I. Banner)
Clogwyn d'ur Arddu, 68 332
Selected Climbs in the Dolomites,
68333
14
D
Crew, P.: his books:
Llanberis South, 71 336
(with R. G. Collomb) Selected
Climbs in the Mont Blanc Range,
vols. I & II, 72 347
Dents du Midi, 72 348
Bregaglia West, 72 348
Criminal: a climbing, 66 388
Cristobal Colon (Colombia): by S face,
62179
Crocodile, Dent du: by E ridge, 59 207,
60373
Croll, W. G.: 'Mount Cook', 69 262
Crombie, T.: Andean notes, 60 387, 67
353
notes: the Argentine Dhaulagiri
expedition, 1954,60383
Ojos del Salado, 61 397
Patagonia, 61 398
Arthur B. Emmons, 68 129
Croux, Aig.: by SE face, 60 165
Croux, Evaristo: obit., 62182
Crozet Islands: climbs in, 66 52
Cuchillo, Nevado: 1st asc., 6442
Cuernos, Principal (Patagonia): 1st asc.,
73 153
Culverwell, E. R.: obit., 63 103
Cunatincota Chico: 1st asc., 67170
Cunatincota,
Nevado (Bolivia): ill.,
from SW, 67171
Cust, A.: port., 70 14-15
Cutforth, A. E.: obit., 64 98
Czartoryski, P.: 'Polish mountaineering', 72 103
DACHL (Gesiiuse): 1st asc. by N face,
diagonal crack, 64 266
Dachstein: by S wall in winter, 66 284
ill., S face (Steiner route), 66 284
Dan Beard, Mt (Alaska): 1St asc.,
68264
ill., from NW fork of Ruth gl. (route),
68256-']
Dang, H.: 'Mount Everest, 1962',68 I
Dangar, D. F. 0.:
'Peter Egger of Grindelwald',
59 53
'The Fiihrerbuch of Young Peter
Taugwalder',
59 436
'The first ascent of the Trifthorn',
61348
'The first ascent of the Matterhorn',
61493
'The rise of modern mountaineering,
1854-65',6216
'The highest mountains', 62 165
'Early expeditions in the Pontresina
district', 63 44
Dangar, D. F. 0.:
'Eckenstein: the man and the climber',
6571
'John Thorn: mountaineer',
65199
'Jakob Anderegg', 66 89
'The Parkers and the Matterhorn',
68 285
'Old Peter Taugwalder,
1820-88',
7026
'The Matterhorn:
a diary of events
after the disaster of 1865', 70 199
'A word for Whymper: a reply to
Sir Arnold Lunn', 71 III
'The ascent of Chomolhari',
72 304
'The highest mountains, 1962-1967',
73241
notes: British travellers in the
Dauphine, 59 89
Mont Pelvoux, 59 464
The first ascent of Piz Palii, 61 545
Bruneggjoch, 61 548
d' Angeville, Henriette: interview with,
65232
Dansketinden
(Staunings Alps): 2nd
asc., 70 126
Daplipandigo:
asc., 6158
Darban Zorn: 1St asc., 71 136
Darbyshire, C. : Peruvian notes, 70 144
Darrah-e-Abi
(Hindu Kush):
expedition to, 72 65
Darrah-i-Parshui
(Hindu Kush): notes
on & ascs. from 72 308
ill., 72 306-7
Darrah-i-Shahran
area: 1st ascs. in,
739°
Darwa Top (Himalaya): asc., 69 203
Darwin, Mt (Tierra del Fuego): ases.,
67264
ill., 67 262
Darwin Range: expedition to 67 259
Daunt, H. E.: death, 59 86
Dauphine: British travellers in the,
5989
ascs. in, 64263, 67 341
Davidson, M.: her book: (with R.
Hewitt) The Mountains of New
Zealand, 60 425
Davidson, Sir Edward: incident at the
Schonbiihl hut, 70 219
Davies, A.: 'Women's Overland Himalayan expedition, 1958',6483
Davies, L. W.: 'Footsteps in the snow',
61340
Davy, Sir Humphry:
at Chamonix,
69 284
Deacock, A.: her book : No Purdah in
Padam, 65 258
D
Deacock, W. M. M.: 'Spirit of the
Storm', 70 273
Australian notes, 70 337, 72 148
de Agostini, A.: death, 66 164
Dean, D.: 'Oscar Eckenstein, 18591921',6562
de Beer, G. R.: 'William Benson Earle's
visit to Chamonix in 1767',5937
'Thomas Bowdler, Alpine pioneer',
62 137
'New information about the first
ascent of Mont Blanc', 67 230
notes: Hannibal's route across the
Alps, 6:1:215
Anton Malczewski, 6:1:394
Sir Humphry Davy at Chamonix,
69 284
Alpes Maritimes, 7:1:143
his books: (with T. Graham Brown)
The First Ascent of Mont Blanc,
62 184
La Prima Ascensione del Monte
Bianco, 66 407
de Booy, T.: his book: (with C. G.
Egeler) The Untrodden Andes, 60 423
Deborah, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 59463,
6035
ill., 60 32-3
de Briiyn, I.: 'Courmayeur in 1913',
59299,458
death, 59 343
de Chatellus, A.: his book: Alpiniste,
est-ce-Toi ?', 59 361
de Graaff-Hunter, J.: death, 72 134
de Grunne, F.: obit., 66 387
Delago, H.: death, 68132
de la Motte, E. S. G.: obit., 63 112
de Lavis-Trafford, M. A. : his book: Le
Col Alpin franchi par HannibalSon Identification topographique,
64 277
note on, 67 370
Delez, P. L.: death, 59459
de Luc, J. A.: note on, 63125
life & climbs, 68 206
de Luca, G.: 'The Matterhorn: an
impression from Italy', 70 43
de Lusy, M.: obit., 60151
Demavend: by E ridge, 6:1:64, 66-']
asc., 66 139
Demirkazik (Taurus): asc., 70127
Denman, E.: his book: Alone to Everest,
59480
DeoTibba:
ase.,66 390, 68 52
5th, 67 330
Densham, G. L.: obit., 69318
15
de Saussure, H. B.: his climbs, 68 208
Desio, A.: 'The 1954 Italian expedition
to the Karakorum and the conquest
of K 2', 60 3
his book: La Conquista del K 2,
Seconda Cima del Mondo, 60419
de Trafford, E. A.: obit., 65 262
Devereux, Peak (Wokkpash): 1st asc.,
6649
Devies, L.:
his books: (with L Terray) Joies de la
Montagne, 70 346
(with P. Henry) La Chafne du
Mont Blanc (III), 72 348
Devil's Thumb (Greenland): 2nd ase.,
68 123
ill., 68 110-II
Devistan I: 1st asc., 66 390
de Wesselow, O. L. V. S.: obit., 64 296
Dharmsura: ill., & Papsura, 73156-7
Dhaula Dhar & Pir Panjal ranges: ill.,
peaks of, from Chandra Khanni Pass,
73244
Dhaulagiri:
attempts: Swiss 1953, 59 302
Argentine, 1954, 59462,60383
Swiss, 1958,63261
Austrian, 1959, 64 244, 65 II
1st asc., 65 246
ill., from S, 59 302
from N, 59 302-3
N face, 65 14, 17
NE ridge from Camp II, 65 14-15
upper part of, 65 16
Dhaulagiri district: exploration in, 60248
Dhaulagiri Himal: expedition to, 68 188
topography of, 73 II 3
ill., from N, 60 250
II & IV from E, 60 254
IV from W, 68 192-3, 7:1:78-9
Dhaulagiri IV: attempts, 68 193, 196,
7:1: 79
Diable, Aigs. du: tr., 6:1:540,64264
Dias, J.: his book: The Everest
Adventure: Story of the Second Indian
Expedition, 7:1:331
Dibibokri Pyramid: ill., 6:1:462-3, 464
Dibona, Aig.: ascs., 60 370
1st asc. by S face, diedre Anglais,
7396
Diemberger, K.: 'The North face of the
Eiger', 64 187
'My finest route in the Alps', 66 261
'Some climbs from the Upper
Tirich glacier', 7:1:61
d'Ifni, Lac (Atlas): visit to, 71 48
Dikte, Mt (Crete): asc., 65 212
16
D
Dimple (S Georgia): 1Stasc., 61 466
Diran: attempt, 65 90
Dir Gol: ascs. from, 72122
Dirg Zorn (Hindu Kush): asc., 73 250
Discovery, Mt (Antarctica): 1Stasc.,
64132
Disgrazia, Mte delia: 1Stasc., 63 48
asc., 64 262
by NNE ridge, 68 125, 69 279
Disteghil Sar: attempt, 63 132,64245
1Stasc., 65 245, 66 I
ill., 66 6-7
Dittert, R.: his book: (with G.
Chevalley and R. Lambert) AvantPremieres a I' Everest, 59 352
di Vallepiana, U.: 'Photographic
souvenirs of ski-mountaineering',
59201
Dividal, the (Norway): note on, 61 382
Dixon, Mt (New Zealand): attempt,
72258
Dixon, W. S.: obit., 69 169
Docharty, W. M.:
his books: A Selection of some 900
British and Irish Mountain Tops,
61423
supplement to, 69 314
Doepfner, Cardinal: ascends Mt Blanc,
64243
Dogs: climbing achievements of, 60 378,
61210,393,70223
Doig, D.: his book: (with E. Hillary)
High in the Thin Cold Air, 68 151
Dolent, Mt: tr., 67 220
Dolomieu, Marquis de: memorial to,
64124
Dolomites: ascs. in, 64 267,66157,374,
67 340, 68 125, 293, 69 279, 73 100
Dom: asc., 65 218
double anniversary on, 73 205
Domeyko, I.: his ascs. in the Andes,
73109
Don Bosco, Cerro (Patagonia): 1st asc.,
67257
Donguz-Orun: by N face, 67152
Donkin, B.: obit. & port., 70183
Donkin, S. B.: obit. & port., 59 73
Donkin, W. F.: his Alpine photography,
62159
Douglas, Lord F.: expeditions in 1864,
73255
Douglas-Hamilton, Lord M.: obit.,
70366
Dowbiggin, H. L.: obit., 71345
Downes, R. 0.: death, 63131,180
Downton, Rev. H.: biographical note,
70202
Drakensberg: highest summit in, 60
178
Driver-Holloway, J. S.: obit., 61 364
Droites, Les: N face: 1Stdirect asc.,
61207
tr., 64 264
1st winter asc. by NW spur of N face,
68299
Dru, Aig. du Petit:
W face:
ascs.: 3rd, 60 25, 166
1St,60 166
2nd, 60 166
4th, 60 374
other, 61 542, 63 246
1Stwinter, 62 179
1Stdirect, 70 317, 71 103
Pilier Bonatti:
ascs.: 1St,60 374
2nd, 61 542
3rd,61542
other, 63 246, 6425, 68 228
1Stwinter, 66385
accidents, 64 248, 66 376, 67 209
ill., W face, 60 3
from La Flegere, 62 104
Drungso Ri (Bhutan): asc., 72 269
ill., 72 259
Drusenfluh: narrow escape on, 66 62
Duglosz, J.: death, 68 132
Dummett, G. A.: 'African holiday',
64206
Dunsheath, J.:
her books: (with others) Mountaim
and Memsahibs, 63149
Guest of the Soviets, 64 278
Dych Tau:
E peak: 1Stasc., by right S buttress,
63247,6466
by left-hand S buttress, 64 259
ill., 64 68
Dyhrenfurth, G. 0.: 'Narrow escapes',
66 58
'Some hints for Himalayan aspirants',
6836
notes: Malubiting, 67167
Gangapurna, 69 288
Kondus-Kaberi,72 140
Ngojumba Ri II, 72 141
Ngojumba Ri, 73 115
his books: Das Buch vom Nanga
Pa1bat,60 181
To the Third Pole, 60 421
Der dritte Pol, 66 172
Dyhrenfurth, N. G.: 'Americans on
Everest, 1963',69 I
note: Mount Everest, 67 350
EARLE,W. B.: visit to Chamonix, 59 37
Earthquake: in Switzerland, 1855,6494
East African notes: 65 243, 67 361,
68 325, 69 302, 70 336, 71 321,
72 336, 73 276
East Aling gl.: ill., looking up, at
Cathedral & Mitre, 67 78-<)
East Maiden (Alaska): asc., 72 114
Eaton, J. E. C.: obit., 64 99
Ebnefluh: asc., 61 338
Eccles, Refuge: destruction of, 59 87
Echevarria, E.: 'Further notes on the
Andes', 60 79
'The Andes of Cocuy', 63 33
'The Santa Marta range, Colombia',
63209
'The Cordillera Real', 6444
'The Chilean Cordillera Central',
6488,6553
'The Rockies of Colorado', 71 26
'The South American Indian as a
pioneer Alpinist', 73 8 I
Andean notes, 67 170, 72 146
Chilean notes, 65 241, 68 314, 7°141
notes: Andine 'first' ascents, 64 125
Lanin, 67 163
Pichincha, 68 302
Cotopaxi, 68 303
unclimbed 6000 m peaks of the
Andes, 71 149
Altar, 71 151
Aconcagua, 72 143
Alpamayo, 73 109
Ignacy Domeyko, 73 109
Eckenstein, 0.: his career, 65 62
port., 65 70
Ecole Nationale: Rassemblement
International of, 64 261
Ecrins: accident, 64247,65 139
Almer's leap on, 71 112
Edholm, O. G.: his book: (with A. L.
Bacharach) Exploration Medicine,
7°347
Edith Cavell, Mt: 2ndasc. by N face, 72332
by N face to E summit, 73 66, 92, 274
Edunstwa, Pik (Pamirs): by NWan::te
from Pik Spartak, 73 29
1st asc., 73 29
Edwards, J. I.: 'The Batura Muztagh
expedition, 1959',6548
Edwards, Menlove: death, 63 257
Egeler, C. G.: his book: (with T. de
Booy) The Untrodden Andes, 60 423
Egger, Peter: climbing career, 59 53
Egger, T.: death, 64 244
Eggler, A.: 'On Lhotse and Mount
Everest', 61 239
Eiger:
N face:
ascs.: 13th, 63 246, 64122, 187
14th, 64267
in 1959,6598
in 1961,66 376
1st winter, 66 384
in 1953,67158
total to 1961,67158
1st British, 67 338, 68 29
other British, 68 293, 69 132
1st solo, 69 140
1st desc., 69 141
1st direct, 71 256
correspondence re, 72 193
SE face: 2nd asc., 7°130
NE face: loth asc., 65222
recovery of victims of 1957 accident,
67157
von Kuffner's ice-axe on Mittellegigrat, 67 345
ill., from shoulder of Gross Fiescherhorn, 61 336-7
from Mettenberg, 62 157
N face (route), 64 190
showing direct & normal routes,
71260
Eiselin, M.: his book: Erfolg am
Dhaulagiri, 66 396
Elbruz:
ascs.: 1st, 59460,61 155,71 312
by a centenarian, 69 141
on a motor cycle, 72137
E peak: 1st asc., 60 115
1st by a British woman, 63 118
ill., 61 123, 15°,325
Elburz range: ascs. in, 61 63
note on, 61 391
map of the Central, 63 207
Ellesmere Island: Peary in, 59 216
ascs. in 67164
highest peak in, 73 108
ill., 67 164
Elliott, C. A.: valedictory address, 59 231
Elphinstone, Colonel: port., 59 283
Emery, J. A. G.: 'The runcible cat',
66290
obit. & port., 68 347
Emi Koussi (Sahara): 1st asc., 63 131
Emmons, A. B.: death, 68 129
obit., 68 351
Encantados, Sierra dos: ascs. in, 62174
Enclave, Col d': cr., 66 80
Engel, C. E.:
her books: They came to the Hills,
5998
Mont Blanc: an Anthology, 71 173
18
F
English, H. B.: obit., 67 378
Equipment:
Russian, 64 91
Himalayan, 64 124
notes, 66 365, 67 332, 69 271
bivouac, 67 332
Erciyas Dag: by NW face, 67 337
Erebus, Mt (Antarctica): 1st, 2nd &
other ascs., 64 132
origin of name, 64 132
5th asc., 67 347
height, 68 137
Erica, Punta (Andes): asc., 70 242
Escarra, J.: death, 61 388
Estcourt, N. J.: 'Three climbs from
Chamonix', 73 9
Ethiopia: brochure by Dr H Scott, 64131
Dr Mooney's travels in, 69 286
Etna, Mt: height, 69 285
Etwa in Urdu (Karakoram):
asc., 67 83
Evans, D.: 'The Jagdula expedition,
1962',6865
Evans, J.: her book: The Conways: a
History of Three Generations, 72 345
Evans, R. C.: 'The Cho Oyu expedition,
1952',599
'Everest 1953. The first ascent of the
South Peak', 59173
his books: Eye on Everest, 61 417
On Climbing, 61 563
Kangchenjunga, the Untrodden
Peak, 61 575
Eve (Swat): asc., 70 208
Everest, Mt: Swiss attempt, 1952,59 I
1st asc., 59 103
of SPeak, 59 173
oxygen apparatus, 59 238, 247
West Basin or West Cwm, 59 85
Hubbard Medal awarded to 1953
expedition, 59 343
congratulations
from Russia, 59 366
South Summit or South Peak?, 59 367
disappearance of Mallory & Irvine,
59495
ascent challenged, 60 170
height, 60 170
book re Swiss expeditions, 60 192
2nd asc., 61 249
expeditions in the 1920S, 62 87
Abominable Snowman on, 65 99
Tibetan name of, 65 239, 69 144, 290,
7°3°4
Chinese asc., 1960,65247,6628,
313
Indian attempt, 1960,65248,66
15
Bullock's diary of 1921 expedition,
67130,291
Chinese photograph, 67 310, 6848,359
proposed American attempt, 67 350
Everest, Mt:
Indian attempt, 1962,67351,68
I
American ascs. & 1st tr., 68 305, 69 I
attempt from Tibetan side, 68 305
ice-axe found in 1933, 68 141
loth anniversary of 1st asc., 68 303,
69142
transport & Sherpas in 1963, 68 237
early proposals to climb, 69 143
Maurice Wilson's attempt, 70 269
& the monsoon, 70 328
Indian asc., 1965,7°33°,71
I
in jade, 71 312
roads named after members of 1953
expedition, 72 362
Chinese attempt, 1966,73 115
Chinese scientific expedition to
North Col., 73 248
ill., S flank of SE ridge, 594
SE ridge, 59 5
from the SE, 59 16
from the air, 59 103
views from summit, 59118,122,
61249
Kangshung face from Barun gl.,
60230-1
from Base Camp, 1922,62 frontispiece
Chinese photo, 66 314, 67 311,
685°
North Col from W, 67 135
N face from North Col, 67 298-9
SW shoulder from Pumori, 68 14-15
from W Cwm. 6814-15
SE ridge with summit & S summit,
6815
members of Swiss & British expeditions on Gross Simmelistock,
68233
from 20,000 ft on Pumori, 69 14
N face & summit pyramid from
W ridge, 69 14-15
Exposure meters: compass errors due
to, 64 243
Eyre, D. C.: his book:John Sikander,
59483
FABIAN, D.: 'The Scottish-Canadian
Coast Range expedition, 1965',71296
Faes, H.: obit., 73 296
Fairweather, Mt: 2nd asc., 63 248
Fairweather Range: 1st ascs. in, 68 320
Falak Sar: recce, 6744
history, 68 252
attempt, 68 255
2nd asc., 71 136,216
ill., 71212-13,216
F
19
Fall: a record, 73 257. (But see 75 205)
Falso Morado (Chile): new route on
S face, 67 170
Family first ascents: 67 157
Fanny (Karakoram): origin of name,
68 138
Fantin, M.: 'Mexican trilogy, 1963',7048
'Some notes on the history of Aconcagua', 71261
his books: I quattordici '8000', 70 174
Cervino I86S!I96S, 71 178
Fischer, W.: death, 66 162
Fisher, J. E.: obit., 71 190
Fisher, Lord: & the Alps, 59 217
FitzRoy, Mt: 1st asc., 59468
ill., group from Estancia Rocco, 67 238
& Aig. Poincenot, 67 238-9, 241
Fitzsimons, R.: his book: The Baron of
73 126
Farquhar, F. P.: his book: History of the
Sierra Nevada, 71 175
Fawcett, E. D.: obit., 65228
Fay, Cornelia: port., 72 274
Fearon family: & the Wetterhorn,
64247
Fedden, H. R. R.: 'Russell and the
Vignemale', 65 80
'Climbing in Turkish Kurdistan',
71 133
note: Canada, 64 129
his books: Alpine Ski Tour, 61 573
The Enchanted Mountains, 67 373
Fenaroli, F.: his book: Flora delle Alpi,
61227
Ferlet, R.: 'Aconcagua, face Sud
Premieres Batailles', 60 17
his book: (with G. Poulet) Aconcagua,
South Face, 61 415
Fermedaturm,
Gross: narrow escape on,
666o
Fex-Scersen, Fuorcla: 1st recorded cr.,
6348
Fiescherhorn, Gross: asc., 61 337
Fiescherwand: by N buttress, 66155
Figari, B.: his book: Montagna, 61428
obit., 72 188
Film festival: international, 64 123
Film work on high mountains,
expedition: 73 35
Finch, G. I.: valedictory address, 67 I
Finch, J. R. G.:
notes: Hindu Kush, 68137
a map of the Hindu Kush, 73 110
Tirich Mir, 73 110
Finsteraarhorn:
asc., 67 223
by NE face, 70 130
ill., NE face, 62 39
Finzi, N. S.: obit., 73 296
Firmin, A. H.: obit. & port., 60 397
accident, 61 42
death, 61 43
Firsoff, V. A.: his book: In the Hills of
Breadalbane, 59483
Fleischbank: by SE face, 70 247
Fleming, Mt (Baffin Island): 1st asc.,
67 101
Fleming, P.: his book: Bayonets to
Lhasa, 66 399, 67 209
Fletcher, F.: obit., 60151
Foraker, Mt: 2nd asc., 69 297
asc., 72 329
ill., 72 62-3
Forbes, D.: his book: The Heart of
Nepal, 67 370
Forcella: 1st recorded asc. by NW ridge,
59457
Forster, D. J. V.: obit., 69 319
Fortress, The (Patagonia): 1st asc.,
7393, 143
ill., showing route of 1st asc., 73 148
with Shield & Trident from E,
73 156
& the Sword, 73 156-7
from W, 73 156-7
Fosson, Benjamin: death, 61 388
Foster, W. J.: obit., 61365
Foster, W. W.: obit., 60 154, 376
Fothergill, C. F.: obit., 60400
Fou, Aig. du: by SW ridge, 60 371, 63
245,64263
1st asc. by W face direct, 72131
by S face, 72 318, 73 II
Fowler, T. G. W.: obit., 72 356
Fox, C. I. W.: obit., 63105
Frances, Pi co (Tierra del Fuego): asc.,
68 236
Francis, G. H.: 'Invitation to the Andes,
Part II', 60 280
his book: Mountain Climbing, 64 140
obit., 65 262
Franco, J.: 'Makalu', 6113
his books: Makalu, 61 407
(with M. Mora) Ski de France,
67372
(with L. Terray) Bataille pour le
Jannu, 71 165
(with L. Terray) At Grips with
Jannu, 72 176
Alpinismo Italiano Extraeuropeo,
Piccadilly, 73 28 I
Fixed rope failures: note on, 73 262
Flaig, W.: his book: Lawinen: Abenteuer
und Erfahrung, Erlebnis und Lehre,
61567
20
G
Franz Josef gl.: fall of ice from, 71 149
Fraser, C.: 'How to estimate avalanche
danger', 72 87
his book: The Avalanche Enigma,
71325
Fraser, G. J: obit., 64 282
death, 65 7
Frauenberger, W.: 'The ascent of Nanga
Parbat', 59 371
death, 63 256
Frazer, R. A.: obit., 65 93, 225
Freese-Pennefather,
H. W. A.: obit.,
72356
Frenchman's Cap (Tasmania): 1st asc.
by S face, 70 126
Freshfield, D. W.: 'Two Caucasian first
ascents', 60 II 3
'The first attempt on the Porta da
Roseg', 60 302
Frey, W.: 'Some notes on the Darrah-iParshui (Central Afghan Hindu
Kush)', 72 308
notes: maps of Afghanistan, 72 324
Hindu Kush archives, 73 I I I
his book: Zwischen Munjal und
Bashgal, 72 348
Frida, Punta di: by S face (Comici
route), 64 267
Friedli, E. : death, 72 290
Friga (Baffin Island): 1st asc., 67 104
Frison-Roche, R.:
his books: (with P. Tairraz) Mont
Blanc aux Sept ValUes, 65 II5
Les Montagnes de la Terre, vol. I,
69308
vol. II, 70 165
Frost-bite: treatment of, 71 309
Fuego, Tierra del: naming of peaks in,
68316
travels in, 67 259, 68 230
Fuhrer, Heinrich: death, 66162
Furketlihorn:
asc., 70 218
Fusilier Peak (Wokkpash): attempt,
6646
1st asc., 66 47
GABELHORN,OBER: by S face, 5925,
61542,6388
tr., 59 26
1st asc. from Wellenkuppe, 60 377
by N.N.W arete direct, 61 203 by N face, 65 89
ill., from Mountet (routes), 61202
Gaillard, E.: obit., 59 71
Gallegione, Pizzo: excursion to, 70 221
Galline, Dosso delle: asc., 61205
Galmiliicke: cr., 61 337
Galton, Erasmus: & Mt Blanc, 61102
port. (silhouette), 61 104
Ganchen: attempt, 65 46
Ganesh (Moditse): 1st asc., 7°123,213
ill., 70 236
Ganesh Himal: 1st asc. of highest
summit, 61 213
2nd, 65 246, 66 Corrigenda
Gangapurna: confused with Annapuma
III, 69 288
1st asc., 70 312, 71 89
ill., with Pt 6700 m & Annapuma III,
69288
from S with route of 1st asc.,
7178-9
E ridge, 71 78--<)
Gangchhen Ledrub: attempt & accident,
69 125
attempts, 70 139
Gangotri I: 1st asc., 59463
Gangotri I II: 1St asc., 59 462
Gangto Peak (Bhutan): ill., 71 26 I
Gannett Peak: 1st winter asc., 65 252
Gansser, A.: his book: Geology of the
Himalayas, 71 326
Garden, P. J.: death, 72 219
Gardner, A. W.: his book: (with P. J.
Roylance) New Essential First Aid,
73 126
Gardner, J. D.: note on, 61 1°7
Garroo, Pik: accident, 67 342
asc., 68 97
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak): 1st asc.,
63242
Gasherbrum II: 1st asc., 61 396
Gasherbrum IV: 1st asc., 63 261, 64 155
ill., 64 16o
Gasherbrum VI: ill., from Camp II
on G. IV, 64 160-1
Gasherbrum group: ill., Gasherbrum
II, III, IV, 64 160-1
Gasherbrum La: reached, 64 167
Gates, C. F.: obit., 61194
Gaudry, Mt (Antarctica): 1st ase., 68 136
Gauri Sankar: possibilities of asc., 59417
reece, 60 176
attempt, 65 90, 70 96
ill., 70 94-5
NW face, 70 94-5
sketch with route of 1964 attempt,
70 100
Gavamie, Cirque de: by new route,
61543
Geant, Aig. du: by S face, 59 207, 63 245
Mummery's attempt by N face, 60 129
statue blown from summit, 64 124
ill., 62 52
G
Geant, Col du: solo cr., 69 235
Geiger, Hermann: death, 71315
his book: Geiger and the Alps, 72173
Geike, Mt: 1st asc. by N face, 73 274
Geisshorn-Aletschhorn
ridge: Pt 3675,
probable 1st asc., 59 2°9,346
Gemelli, Piz: by Flatiron ridge, 61 542
Geneva: memorials in the English
church at, 64 239
George Cross: awarded to a climber,
63250
George, H. B.: his camera, 62158
port., 62 17
Georges, Joseph: death, 66 163
obit.,66381
Gepang: asc., 60 65, 72 203
ill., 60 62
Germain, F.: his book: Across the Alps,
65 1I8
Gestola: asc., 63 247, 64 1I8
Ghent, Mt (Karakoram): 1st asc., 66 390
Ghiglione, P.:
his books: Nelle Ande del Sud-Peru,
59357
Eroismo e Tragedia sui Monte Api,
61220
obit., 66 182
Ghul Lasht Zorn:
1st asc.: of E Peak, 71 63
of highest Peak, 71 63
of SPeak, 73 89
Ghustung Himal: ascs., 7187
Ghustung North: ascs., 68196,197
ill., 68 208
Gibraltar: guide to rock climbs of, 65 237
Gibson, E. R.: obit., 63106
Gibson, J.: obit., 59 333
Gibson, J. T. M.: 'Twenty-five years
of schoolboy expeditions in the
Himalayas', 69 201
Gill, M.: 'Mount Herschel and
Robertson Bay: Sir Edmund Hillary's
Antarctic expedition, 1967',73173
Gillett, W. A.: obit., 64 283
Gillman, P.: 'The Eigerwand direct',
71256
his book: (with D. Haston) Eiger
Direct, 72 163
Gilroy, Mt (Coast range): asc., 71 300
Gippenreiter, E.: 'U.S.S.R. notes,
1959-1963',69293
Girdlestone, Rev. A. G.: biographical
note, 70 203
Glacier Dome (Annapurna group): 1st
asc., 70 123
2nd asc., 71 95
Glacier Dome (N.Z.): asc., 72 258
21
Glaciers: underground, discovered,
63260
movement of Swiss, 64 121,6597,
70326
in retreat, 65 234
Glaciers, Aig. des: asc., 61 70
ill., 66 78
Glencoe: ascs. from, 65 188
Gletscherhorn:
il1., N face (routes),
7229°-1
Glockner, Gross: Bishop Salm's
expeditions, 69 244
Glossary: for mountaineers, 73 259
Gloster Peak (Himalaya): 1st asc., 65 44
il1., 65 38-9
Glover, G. T.: obit., 59 212
Gobbi, Toni: note: U.I.A.G.M.,
71 147
Gold: in the Alps, 61 548
Goode, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 72 330
Goodfellow, B. R.: 'Chinese Everest
expedition, 1960: a further
commentary', 66 3 I 3
'The Matterhorn Centenary', 70191
'Wide base stereoscopic photography:
a further note', 72 95
notes: mountaineering in the
U.S.S.R., 59 459
reports on Alpine weather and snow
conditions, 63 263
exposure meters and compass errors,
64243
P. W. F. Mayo, 64 243
crampons in a fifteenth-century
campaign, 73 257
port., 70183
Goodfellow, T. A. J.: 'The ascents of
Mount Fleming and Mount
Midgard',67
101
'The International Meet of the C.A.F.,
1966',7236
Good Neighbour Peak (Alaska): 1st asc.,
7322
Gopeng Goh: ill., & other Lahouli peaks
from Rohtang La, 64 86-7
Gordoghan Zorn: asc., 71136
Gordon-Spencer,
E. J.: obit., 69 170
Gore Range (Colorado): origin of name,
7131 I
Gorner gl.: survey of, 64 240
Gosse, P.: obit., 65 92
Gough Island: asc. of highest mountain
in, 61 391
Gouter, Aig. du: 3rd asc. by N face,
65222
Graham, A. C.: obit., 63 127
Graham, Peter: obit., 66 386
Graham, R.: obit., 59 333
H
22
Graham, R. B.: obit., 63 108
Grant, R. H.: note: Annapurna
65
II,
ISO
his book: Annapurna II, 67 192
Gray, D.: 'Expedition filmwork on high
mountains', 73 35
'Personality and climbing', 73167
poem: Forced Bivouac, 7317
Greaves, A.: obit., 61 527
Gredos, Sierra de (Spain): ascs. in,
73100
Green, Mt: by S ridge, 61381
Green Mountain (Karakoram): asc.,
6779
Green, V. H. : his book: The Swiss Alps,
67194
Greenald, D. H.: 'Snow Lake, 1956',
64 175
Greenbank, A.:
his books: Climbing, Canoeing,
Ski-ing, Caving, 70 172
Instructions in Mountaineering,
73126
Greenland: ascs. in, 61543,68307
expeditions: French to South, 1956,
6318
Franco-Swiss,
1958,64126
Hunt's, 1960,65238,66250
Italian, 1960,66166
Imperial College, 1963,69253
Scottish to East, 1963,69 127
Royal Navy to East, 1966, 72 29, 212
Sandhurst, 1966,7245
St Andrews to West, 1967,7368
A. M. A. to Sukkertoppen,
1967,
73234
See also p 57 below
Greenwood, H. D.: note: U.LA.A.,
73 II6
Greg, R. L.: obit., 70 367
Gregory, A.: 'The Merseyside
Himalayan expedition, 1955',6154
his book: The Picture of Everest, 60
192
Grepon, Aig. du: by E face, 5926,
66151
1st asc., 60 126
1st asc. of Pt Balfour, 60 381
by C. P. route, 63 219
5th asc. & 1st tr., 63 219
tr., 67 38
by Aig. de Roc., 72 40
Gribbon, P.: 'Upernivik Island: the
University of St Andrews West Greenland expedition, 1967',7368
Griffin, L. J.: his book: (with G.
Oliver) Scafell Group, 73 291
Griffin, M.: her book: Tiquimani, 71 18o
Grindelwald: graves at, 64 238
Grivola: by N ridge, 64 268
Grogan, E. S.: death, 72 328
Grosvenor, J. E.: obit., 68 352
Gruber, G.: 'A panorama of the Hindu
Kush',72
I
'A reconnaissance into North-east
Chitral', 73 55
Gspaltenhorn:
winter asc. by Rote
Zlihne, 64247
by NE face, 72 290
Gstellihorn, Gross: 2nd asc. by SW
Pillar, 69 133
Guan Nelda: 1st asc., 61 308
ill., 61301
Guardian, El (Colombia): by new
route on S face, 62 179
ill., 63 212-13
Guex, A.: his book: Pilote des Glaciers,
60432
Gugliermina, G. B.: port., 59 299
obit., 68 167
Gugliermina, G. F.: port., 59 299
obit., 67 202
Gugliermina, Pta: by S face, 59 207,
60375,61
385,66376,7353,97
Guide-books:
Italian mountain, 59 466
early, 62 10, 17
Guides: deaths of Swiss in 1955,61 2II
tales by Swiss (book), 61 221
& the Matterhorn, 62 22
in Pioneers of the Alps, 62 42
of Chamonix, 62 42
& imitation snakes, 62 50
relationship with amateurs, 62 53
prestige of, 62 101
training of Val d' Aosta, 70 262
number licensed in Switzerland &
Austria, 71 142
Guisan, H.: obit., 65264
Gunbaz-e-Safed:
attempt, 66 248
Gunther, A. E.: 'Glaciers of the KuluSpiti Divide', 59288
Gurla Mandhata: ill., 66 332
Gurtner, 0.: death, 63 262, 64 128
Gyachung Kang: 1st asc., 69 289
Gyalgen Peak: 1st asc., 6161
ill., 61 60-1
Gyalzan Kazi: port., 67 299
Gyong gl. system: explored & mapped,
66149
HADFIELD,C. F.: obit., 70 368
Hadow, D. R.: his boots on 1st asc. of
Matterhorn, 63 124
port., 61 488-g
H
Hagen, T.:
his books: (with others) Mount
Everest: Structure, Exploration
and Population of the Everest
Massif, 65 255
Nepal, 67 369
Mount Everest, 68155
Haidinger, Mt: attempt, 72 262
Half Dome: ill., N face, 61221
Hall, D. O. W.: New Zealand notes,
60143, 391,61 399, 549,63 135, 264,
64251
Hallworth, R.: his book: The Last
Flowers on Earth, 73 124
Hamel, Dr: place of death, 63 125
Hammock bivouacs: 1st use in the Alps,
72138
Hamtah Pass: cr., 6146
Handley, C. B. C.: obit., 72 189
Hangde: 1st asc., 67 351
Hannibal: his passage of the Alps,
6193,215,67243
Hanuman Tibba: 2nd asc., 71303,72201
3rd asc., 72 326
ill., from Bruce's Pass, 71 304
from Shekuntla Tibba, 72 210
Haramosh: attempt, 63132
1st asc., 63 261, 64 12
ill., & Mani Peaks (route of 1st asc.),
6414
& Nanga Parbat from Camp 3 on
Malubiting, 65 38
Haramosh La: cr .. 65 47
Hardie, N. D.: New Zealand notes,
~2~,~3~,~3~,~3~,
69300,70334,71319,72334,
73275
his book: In Highest Nepal, 63 141
Hardy, H. H.: obit., 64101
Harlin, J.: 'The West face of the Petit
Dru direct', 71103
obit., 71 346
Harmsworth, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc.,
63241
Harper, A. P.: note: 1869 and 1954,
59345
obit. & port., 60 402
Harper Pass: origin of name, 61 549
Harper's Saddle: origin of name, 61 549
Harrer, H.:
his books: Seven Years in Tibet, 59 355
The White Spider, 65 1°9,70352
I Come from the Stone Age, 70 342
Harris, E.: 'Everest, 1953. The closed
circuit oxygen apparatus', 59 238
Harris, Admiral Sir E. A. S.:
biographical note, 70 203
23
Harris, M. J.: 'The East Summit of
Dych Tau', 64 66
'Russian climbing equipment', 6491
obit., 64 284
death, 65 7
Harris, R. G.: obit., 72190
Harrison, F.: obit., 59451
Harrison, J.: death, 71319
Harrison, Major: port., 59 283
Hartley, T.: 'Double anniversary on the
Dom', 73 205
Hartog, J. M.: 'Pic Sans Nom,
Dauphine', 61 87
'The climbing of the Muztagh
Tower', 61253
Hasell, J. A. E.: 'Communications
on
the Pakistan-British
Karakoram
expedition, 1962',6998
Hasler, G. A.: obit., 59 334
Haston, D.: his book: (with P. Gillman)
Eiger Direct, 72 163
Hattersley-Smith,
G.: note: Ellesmere
Island, 67 164, 73 108
Haukana: asc., 69 222
Hauser, G.: 'The German Himalayan
expedition, 1965',7189
his book: White Mountain and Tawny
Plain, 67 186
Hawksley, J. C.: note: Bouleau
Mountain, 61215
Hearfield, B.: 'Climbs in the Cordillera
Vileabamba', 69 41
Hedin, A. S.: obit., 59 77
Heen, A. R.: 'Trollryggen from
Romsdal',64 183
Helbling, Cerro: 1st asc., 65 241
Heller, M.: his book: (with M. Milne)
The Book of European Skiing, 72 172
Henderson, K. A.: North American
notes, 65 251, 67 355, 68 319, 69 297,
70331,71316,72329,73268
Henry, P.: his book: (with L. Devies)
La Chaine du Mont Blanc (III), 72 348
Herbert E. S.: valedictory address,
613
'T. Graham Brown', 7151
port., 62 84-5, 70 183
Herbetet: by S ridge, 64 268
Herens, Dent d': by E ridge, 59 67
by N face (Welzenbach route), 64 266
Hermitage, The: destroyed by fire,
63 129
Herold, J. C. : his book: The Swiss without Halos, 60 195
Herrligkoffer, K. M.: his book: Nanga
Parbat, 60 179
Herron, Rand: death, 60 178
24
H
Herschel, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc.,
7394, 173
2nd asc., 73179
ill., 73 180-1
Herzog, M.: his book: (with others)
La Montagne, 6I 569
Hess, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 70 333
Hewitt, H. B.: his book (editor): Peter
Graham, Mountain Guide: an
Autobiography, 70 339
Hewitt, L. R.: 'The second attempt on
Masherbrum',
6I 29
his book: (with M. Davidson) The
Mountains of New Zealand, 60 425
obit., 69 320
Hey, W. H.: obit. & port., 6I 194
Hickson, J. W. A.: obit., 6I 366
Hidden Peak (see Gasherbrum I)
Hiebeler, T.:
his books: (editor) Berg und Mensch
(I96I), 67 368
North Face in Winter, 68 158
Combats pour l'Riger, 7I 183
Highest Mountains, the:
ascs. of: 1857-1957,62 165
1956-8,64136
1959-61,66391
1962-7,73241
unclimbed at the end of 1957, 63131
dates of ascs. of 8000 m peaks, 6g 289
heights of, revised, 70 329
numbers climbed, 7I 153
Hill, G.: 'Papsura: the summit climb',
73 164
death, 73 165
Hillary, E. P.: 'Everest, 1953. The last
lap', 59 235
his books: High Adventure, 60 425
(with W. G. Lowe) East of &erest,
6I422
No Latitude for Error, 66401
(with D. Doig) High in the Thin
Cold Air, 68151
Schoolhouse in the Clouds, 70 167
Hills, D. C.: his book: My Travels in
Turkey, 69 307
Himalaya:
summary of expeditions to:
1954,59462
1960,65246
1955,60385
1961,66389
1956, 6I 396
1962,6,351
1957,63131
1963,68305
1958, 63 261
1964, 69 289
1959,64245
1965,7° 330, 7I 153
expeditions: Creagh Dhu, 1953,60 58
Hooker's journeys, 60 84
before 1914 war, 62 71
Himalaya: expeditions:
since 1939, 62 108
scientific, 1960-1,66343
Derbyshire, 1961,6851
Schoolhouse, 69 23, 70 226
by schoolboys, 69 201
heights & earthquakes in, 59 88
expedition tariffs (Nepal), 6I 550
obstruction in, 64 133
notes, 65 246
hints for aspirants, 68 36
revised heights of highest mountains,
7°329
Japanese 1st ascs. in, 7I 253
see also p 58 below
Himalayan Mountaineering Institute:
note on, 73 112
Himal Chuli: attempts, 6I 40, 64 245
recce,64 134
1st asc., 65 246
ill., 6I 40
Himlung Himal: recce, 70 122
Hindu Kush:
summary of expeditions to:
1963, 6g 124
1966,72 122
1964,70 120
1967,7389
1965,7I 136
expeditions:
Polish, 1960, 66 235
1962,68121
1963,69274
Garmisch Partenkirchen, 1963,
69249
Scottish, 1965, 7I 58
Cambridge, 1966, 72 65
articles re in O.A.Z., 69 289
topography, 7I 199
travellers & surveyors in, 7I 202
mountaineering history, 7I 205
tax on expeditions to, 7I 313
panorama of, 72 I
7000 m peaks in, 72 13
new map of, 73 IIO
archives, 73 I II
ill., panorama of the high (Eastern),
726,7
see also p 6 I below
Hindu Raj:
ill., panorama from near Pechus,
736o
from near Kan Khun, 73 61
peaks above Madod valley, 73 62
Hingston, R. W. G.: obit., 7I 347
Hinings, R.: note: keeping warm in
sleeping-bags, 72 313
Hirondelles, Col des: attempt, 6, 222
ill., 67 219
H
Hispar Pass: cr., 60 15, 64 179
Hiunehuli Patan: reece, 68 201
Hjornespids:
1st ase., 66 256
Hoary Peak (Talkeetna): 1St ase., 73 27 I
Hobday, S. R.: obit., 61 367
Hochgebirgsfiihrer durch die Berner Alpen:
rev. of vol. V, 61 230
vol. IV, 61 573
Hoekenhull, H. K.: 'Special oeeasionJuly 14, 1965',70197
Hodge, E. W.:
his books: The Northern Highlands,
59482
(with W. W. Naismith) The Islands
of Scotland (excluding Skye),
59 101
Hodgkinson, D. A.: obit., 64 286
Hoeman, J. V.: 'Yukon Alpine
Centennial expedition', 73 22
Hollingsworth, J. H.: obit., 63 II I
Holmes, P. F.: 'Spiti, 1956',61458
his book: Mountains and a Monastery,
64147
Holmes, Sherlock: & the Theodule
Pass, 59 345
Hong Kong: guide to rock climbs, 65119
Hood, Mt: by Yocum ridge, 65 252
Hooker, Mt (U.S.A.): by N face, 70 333
Hooker, Sir J. D.: Himalayan journeys
summarised, 60 84
Hope, R. F.: obit., 69 321
Hornbein, T. F.: 'The ascent of
Masherbrum',
67 9
his book: Everest: the West Ridge,
72176,338
Horniblow, P. J.: 'Khinyang Chhish,
1962',68100
Horrorhorn (Cordillera Vilcanota): 1st
ase., 6440
Hosford, M.: 'Mountains of the Central
Australian Desert', 67 313
Houston, C. S.:
his books: (with others) K 2 (8,6II
metres), 60 192
K 2: The Savage Mountain, 60 417
Howard G. E.: obit. & port., 61197
Howard, J. W.: 'Mount Kenya, 19391952',60270
'Safari in Nepal', 61 38
'Lukenya',65
195
notes: Kisoi Munyao, 69 141
Mount Kenya, 69 285
Howard-Bury,
C. K.: obit. & port.,
69 171
Howser Peak: ase., 6519
Howser Spire: attempt, 65 24
ill., 65 23
Hoyte, J.: his book: Trunk Roadfor
Hannibal, 67 371
Huaeratanca: 1st asc. of NE Peak,
70243
Huaerish Norte: 1st asc., 72146
Huagaruneho:
1st ase., 61 441
ill., 60 72-3
from Peak A, showing route of
1st ase., 61 440-1
S face, 61 440-1
Huandoy: SPeak: new route via W
buttress, 70 124, 144
ill., S Peak from E, 60 72-3
from below Pisco, 69 94-5
three peaks from E, 69 94-5
Huasearan: ase. of SPeak, 61 201
ase., 64 115,65249
attempt by E ridge, 66 206
1st asc. by N face of N Peak, 72 146
ill., from SW, 64 116
SPeak, 66 204-5
N Peak from E, 69 94
Huayhuash, Cordillera: ases. in, 69 126
ill., 60 72-3
Huaynaceapae: ases., 66 150
Huayna Potosi: ase., 67 170
Hudson, Rev Charles: biographical
notes, 63 123
at the Eggishorn hotel, 63 254
his climbing career, 71 117
Huggins, M t (Antarctica): 1St ase.,
63241
Hugi, F. J.: his climbs, 68210
Hulton, E.: port., 62 52-3
Humble, B. H.: his book: The Cuiltin
of Skye, S995
Humphreys, G. N. P.: note:
Ruwenzori, 61 214
obit., 71 306
Hungabee, Mt: 1st winter asc., 72332
Hunt, C. A.: death, 70 323
Hunt, J.: 'Everest, 1953. Narrative of
the expedition', S9 107
'Everest diary', S9 123
'Up and down the Guggi', 61 480
'After a hundred years', 62 I
'The Centenary meet at Zermatt,
pages from a diary', 63 87
'British-Soviet Pamirs expedition,
1962',6890
'The Tatras in September, 1965',
7137
'The Yukon Alpine Centennial
expedition, 1967',73 18
valedictory address, 64 I
notes: British-Soviet Pamir expedition, 68 301
25
26
J
Hunt, J.: notes:
loth anniversary of first ascent of
Everest, 68 304
visit to Britain by Polish
mountaineers, 72 136
U.I.A.A.,72
138
Himalayan Mountaineering
Institute, 73 112
his books: The Ascent of Everest,
59219, 347
(with C. Brasher) The Red Snows,
65114
Hunt, Lord: see Hunt, J.
Hunter, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 59463,
6036
ascs., 72 329
ill., 60 32-3
Hunter, R. H. F.: 'The Reading
University Andean expedition, 1962',
68219
Huntington, J. F.: obit., 66184
Huntington,
Mt (Alaska): 1st asc.,
69275,70331
2nd asc., & 1st by W face, 71 15,316
ill., from Mt Dan Beard, 68 256-7
NW ridge & W face, 71 14
W face, 71 14-15
Hunza valley: geological survey, 68123
Hurst, L. H.: 'The mountains of Crete',
65208
note: Crete, 63 258
Hutton, H. 1.. : obit., 59 45 I
Huxley, A.: his book (editor): Standard
Encyclopedia of the World's
Mountains, 68 146
Hvannadlshnukur
69285
Hydro-electric
(Iceland):
schemes:
1st asc.,
66 160
ICE-AXE:new type of, 73 265
Iceland: 1st asc. of highest mountain in,
69285
Ichac, M. : his book: Quand Brillent les
Etoiles de Midi, 66 405
Ida, Mt (Crete): asc., 65 212
Iguenouane (Atlas): asc., 67 69
Illimani: Conway's asc., 60172
Indian Peaks (Colorado): ascs. in, 71 33
Indrasan: attempts, 66 390, 67 327,6853
1st asc., 68 123
ill., from Hamtah Pass, 61 301
route on, 67 330
from lower slopes of Deo Tibba,
67331
Ingham, V.: 'Anne Lister's ascent of
Vignemale' , 73 199
Inner Line: regulations available, 66 389
Iran: ascs. by French expedition, 60 176
Irish, H. J. H.: obit., 67 154
Irving, R. L. G.: 'Unclouded days,
1901-14',6262
poem: The Under Fives, 61356
his book: A History of British
Mountaineering, 60 420
Iselin, F.: his book: (with A. G.
Spectorsky) Invitation to Ski-ing,
5993
Isherwood, R. H.: obit., 65 266
Isherwood, R. J.: 'More climbs in
Swat', 70 205
Ishinca: asc., 72 126
Island Peak (Himalaya): 3rd asc.,
70122
Issa Khan: port., 61 456
Isselin, H. :
his books: La Barre des Ecrins, 59476
Les Aiguilles de Chamonix, 66402
Istor-o-Nal:
1st asc., 61 202. (But see
7S 168)
1st ascs. of N & NE peaks, 72 328
recce & ascs. in the massif of, 72 123
Italian Alpine Club: book reviewed,
Alpinismo Italiano nel Mondo, S9 364
Italian Alps: in 1962,68 132
Ixtaccihuatl: asc., 70 54
ill., 70 54
Izzard, R.: his book: The Innocent on
Everest, 60 427
JACKSON,F. S.: note: the highest
mountain in Bhutan, 72 325
port., 70 I I I
Jackson, J.: her book: The Turkish Time
Machine, 72 174
Jackson, J. A.: 'The crossing of the
North and Central Staunings',
66250
his book: More than Mountains, 61 219
Jackson, M.: 'The Scottish Women's
Himalayan expedition', 61 60
her book: (with E. Stark) Tents in the
Clouds, 61 423
Jagdula: 1962 expedition to, 68 65
Jahn, Pico: 1st asc., 67 284,337
James, J. E.: obit., 71 194
James, R.: 'A comparison of mountain
rescue stretchers used in Britain',
73223
James, W. W.: obit., 71195
Jancururish:
1st asc., 72146
Jangi Tau: Schwarzgruber rib: attempt
63247,6470
asc., 64 259
ill., 64 72
K
Jannu: attempt, 64 245
1St asc., 67351,71
165
Japan: modem mountaineering
in, 71248
ill., 71 252-3
Japuma, Nevado de: ascs., 65 86, 66 IS0
tr., 66 IS I
ill., views from summit, 60 282
Jardin, Aig. du: 1St asc. by Central
Pillar of S face, 73 98
Jardin du Roy (Vercors): 1St asc. by
NE Pillar, 64 268
Jarvis, Mt: 1St asc., 73 271
Jatunhuma Peaks: attempts & 1St ascs.,
6439-40
Jatunriti: 1st asc., 6442
Jayal, N. D.: obit., 63 231
Jazzi, Cima di: 1St direct asc. by S face,
65222
Jeffrey, R.: obit., 61 368
Jervis, S.: 'In the Cordillera Vilcanota',
6438
Jirishhanca: 2nd asc., 72146
3rd asc., 73 II8
111.,69 III
John of Austria, Archduke: centenary
of his death, 64241
note on, 65 230
Jolly, A. R.: 'Hannibal's Pass: results
of an empirical test', 67 243
Jonas, R.: death, 67 159
Jones, C.: 'Dreamland',
73 64
Jones, C. T.: note: (with J. Neill) climbs
in Wales, 67 173
his book: (with J. Neill) Snowdon
South, 71 336
Jones, J. H. Emlyn:
'Ama Dablam, 1959',65 I
Jones, M. F. R.: 'The mountains of
W okkpash', 66 42
note: La Bruyere, 67 159
death, 67 342
Jongsong Peak: narrow escape on,
6663
J orasses, Col des Grandes: cr., 67 220
Jorasses, Grandes: by SE (Tronchey)
ridge, 59 205, 323
Pte Margherita:
1st asc. by N face,
64 II7
Pte Walker: by N face, 63 246,
64193, 268
1St winter asc. by N face, 68 135
Pte Whymper: 1St direct asc. by N
face, 69 278
Pte Young: 1St asc. by N face, 64 II7
1St desc. by N face, 65 98
1St asc. by the Shroud, 70 317, 71 140
correction re, 73 258
3
27
J orasses, Grandes:
ill., Tronchey ridge, 59 328
Walker buttress from Couvercle,
64194
Jorasses, Petites: by W face, 63 244
Jossi, Christian (Solm): obit., 61 209
Juchina, Pik (Pamirs): asc., 73 28
Jugal Himal: expedition to, 616o
Juncal Nevado: 2nd asc. by N face,
67170
ill., 64 232-3
Jungfrau: attempt, 61 480
tr., 67 222
extension of railway proposed, 67 346
Jungfraujoch:
1St aeroplane landing near,
64242
record number of passengers to, 66 159
K 2: American attempt, 1953,59215,
391
1st asc., 59462,603
ill., from Concordia, 59 396
from Base Camp, 60 8
summit, 609
K 6: reece, 67 77
supposed attempt, 70 138, 329
K I2: reece, 66 148
ill., panorama of country round,
63 188-9
Kabru: attempt, 59 320
ill., massif from Yalung valley, 59 320
from near summit of Kangchenjunga, 60 220-1
Ka~kar group (Turkey): expedition to,
~ 129
ill., 69 94-5
Kagmara: asc. of three peaks of, 68 74
Kagmara I: a peak of climbed, 70 257
ill., 68 70-1
Kahusi, Mt (Belgian Congo): asc., 65 91
Kaiko (Andes): 2nd asc., 6945
Kailas, Mt: ill., from above Daschan,
66333
Kain, C.: his book: Where the Clouds
Can Go, 60432
Kaisergebirge: ascs. in, 1962,67341
Kajan Pass (Hindu Kush): cr., 72 75
Kaltenegger, P.: 'Dr. Julius Kugy',
7086
note: Paul Preuss, 68 299
Kamet: 2nd asc., 60 385
ill.,62 165
Kanesaka, 1.: note: Himal Chuli, 64 134
Kangbachen: attempt, 71 153
ill., 60 220-1
Kangchenjunga:
1954 recce expedition,
59428
Kangchenjunga:
history, 60 83
1st asc., 60 207
S.W. approach to, 61 213
ill., 59428
from SW, 60 83
SW face, 60 212
S Peak from near summit, 60 220-1
Kangcho (Nepal): asc., 59 IIO
Kang Guru: 1st asc., 60 385
Kangla Ka Chu La: cr., 70 112
Kangtega: asc. of satellite re1k of,
62172
1st asc., 68 306, 69 30
ill., from Base Camp, 69 30-1
& Thamserku from NW, 7094
Kanjiroba:
ill., from Kagmara Lekh, 68 70, 70-1
from 19,000 ft on Lha Shamma,
70252-3
from Bhulu Lhasa, 70 252-3
Kanjiroba Himal: expeditions to, 66 390,
6865
peak attempted, 68 70
asc. of, 68 73
article re in G.J., 73 I IS
ill., 67 126-7, 68 70-1
Kanjut Sar: 1st asc., 64 245,260,6589
Karakoram:
expeditions:
Italian, 1954,60 3
Imperial College, 1957,63 185
R.A.F., 1961, 6773
spelling of, 67 348
communications on 1962 expedition,
6998
meaning of the word, 69 144
see also p 59 below
Karwendel: ascs. in, 1962,67341
Kasbek: 1st asc., 60 113
Kasiri (Andes): asc., 69 219
Kasiri Aguja: asc., 69 218
Kasparek, F.: death, 60 170
Kasper, Hans: death, 59458
Kates Needle (Coast range): 2nd ase.,
71300
Kay, R.: obit., 60 406
Keenlyside, F. H.: relinquishes Editorship of AlpineJournal, 67154
Keitz, J.: note on, & port., 67 160
Kelly, N.: 'Expedition film work on
high mountains', 73 35
Kempe, J. W. R.: 'The Yalung Valley,
1953',59316
'Kangchenjunga
reconnaissance,
1954',59428
'Invitation accepted', 61 435
Kempf, B. : his book: Guide Pratique
de la Montagne, 68 156
Kennedy, E. S.: port., 62 24
Kennedy, Mt (Yukon): naming of, 70 137
1st & 2nd ascs., 71 149
correction re 1St asc., 71 3 14
Kenya, Mt: ascs.: 64212,213,69276,
71321,72336,7394
Batian: by N face, 69 84
Nelion: 1st asc. by NE Pillar, 69 259
1st asc. by E face, 69 276
by normal route, 69 276
Pt Lenana: ascs., 64 212, 69 86,277
Pt Peter: by N ridge, 69 86
Sendeyo: asc., 69 84
Tereri: asc., 69 84
by a new route, 69 277
Grand Traverse, 69 304, 70 294
new routes on, 65 245. 67 365
new map of, 59 465, 70 137
history, 60 270
new hut on, 65 245
accident, 67 364
flag raising on, 69 141, 285
ill., main peaks from N, 60 272
from SE (with normal route),
60272-3
S face from Pt John (route), 60 272-3
from Two Tarn Col (routes),
60273
from S (routes), 60 274
Batian & Nelion, 64 208, 70 284-5
Nelion, E face, 64 209, 69 244-5
SE face 70284-5
N face, 69 78--<)
NE face, showing existing routes,
69244-5
Kerguelen: ice-cap explored, 66 55
Kero Lungma gl.: ascs. from, 65 40, 42
Kerr, A. C.: obit., 66419
Kesch, Piz: narrow escape on, 66 58
Kesha La: cr., 70 III
Khan Shai (Swat Kohistan): asc., 67 52
Khan Tengri: ill., 61324-5
Khinyang Chhish: attempt & accident,
67 342, 68 100
ill., 66 7
S ridge, 68 103
Khorabort Zom: asc., 71 136
Khorpusht-e-Yakhi:
1st asc., 66 248
Khumbu Himal: new map of, 71152
Kihara, H.:
his books: Fauna and Flora of Nepal
Himalaya, 61 228
Land and Crop of Nepal Himalaya,
61574
Peoples of Nepal Himalaya, 63 143
K
Kilgour, H.: 'The Green Abyss: on
being nearly drowned at Chair
Ladder, Cornwall', 73 216
Kilimanjaro :
ascs.: 65 237, 66 388, 68 301, 69 87,
306
1st of Kirsten g1., 68 325
2nd & 1st solo by Decken g1., 69 305
Mawenzi: 1st by E face, 7°125,
7I322
3rd of Heim g1., 7I 322
notes on, 60 96
height, 60 97
flag raising on, 67 166, 365
parachutists land on, 67 347
Kaiser Wilhelmspitze renamed, 70 328
ill., 69 78-<)
Kinabalu: northern approaches of, 63 27
1st asc. by N face, 70 125
King, W. W.: obit., 65 93
Kingspitz (Engelhorner): origin of
name, 69 143, 290
Kinshofer, T.: death, 70 135
Kishmi Khan: ascs. 69 274
ill., 7I 212
Kisoi Munyao: his ascs., 69 141
Knowles, G. J. F.: obit., 64 288
Knox, C. F.: death, 70 133
Knox, H. V.: obit., 65 225
Knubel, Josef: death, 66 380
obit., 67 205
Ziircher's paper on, 67269
port., 67 206, 270
Kogan, C.: her book: (with R. Lambert)
White Fury, 6I 565
death, 65 90
Kogan, G.: his book: (with N.
Leininger) The Ascent of Alpamayo,
60 187
Koh-e-Bandaka:
location of, 68137
ascs.: 2nd, 69 250
3rd,7I 136
by N face, 7I 136
5th,72 122
6th, 73 90
7th, & 1st by S face, 73 90
il1., from Sakhi valley, 69 244-5
N & main summits, 69244-5
Koh-e-Bandaka-Sakhi:
1St ase., 69 250
Koh-e-Bandaka-Tawika:
1st ase., 7I 136
Koh-e-Bandaka Uris: 1st ase., 71 136
Koh-e-Ka-Jurm:
il1., 69 244-5
Koh-e-Ka Safed: 4th & 5th ases., 73 90
Koh-e-Piv: ill., & Kolla-e-Miinehen
from N, 71 212-13
Koh-i-Askival:
1St ase., 716o
Koh-i-Batzenhiiusl:
1st ase., 73 211
29
Koh-i-Bay Qara: ase., 7°121
Koh-i-Chhateboi:
1st ase., 73 212
Koh-i-Chiantar:
1st ase., 73 209
Koh-i-Chrebek:
2nd ase., 7159
Koh-i-Kesnikhan:
1St ase., 69124
Koh-i-Mareheeh:
1st ase. of N Summit,
7I60
Koh-i-Nadir Shah: 2nd ase., 7°120
Koh-i-Parshui:
1st & 2nd ases., 72 310
ill., 72 306
Koh-i-Sisgeikh:
1st ase., 7159
Koh-i- Tundy Shagai Sha: 1st ase., 72 310
Koh-i-Warghut:
1st ase., 73 212
Koh-i-Yajun ('Py'): 1st ase., 73 91
Kohli, M. S.: 'Nine on the summit of
Everest', 7I I
Koktang: attempt, 59 319
il1., 59 319
Kolahoi Northern g1.: description of,
68 138
Kolb, F.: his book: Himalaya Venture,
64273
Kondus- Kaberi: topography of the
aiguilles of, 72 140
ill., 72 140, 141
Kondus Peak: 1St ase., 64173
Kongen (Norway): 1st ase. by E face
direct, 73 104
ill., 73 63
Kophino Vouno (Crete): description
of, 65 213
Korzhenevskaya, Pik: 1st ase., 61328
Koshtantau: by N ridge, 64 260
ill., 60 352
Kosterlitz, J. M.: 'Yerupaja', 72 284
Kotgaz Zorn: 1st ase., 72 122, 229
2nd ase., 72 230
ill., 72 210-II
Kubor, Mt (New Guinea): 1st ase.,
7°314
Kuen Lun: note on, 69 286
Kugy, Julius: reminiscences of, 70 86
Kuh-e-Awar:
1st ase., 69 274
Kuh-e-Mandaras:
ill., 71212-13
Kuh-e-Uparisina:
ill., 7I 212-13
Kulu: search for Abominable Snowman
in, 63 223
Derbyshire expedition to, 1961,
67323,6852
see also p 60 below
Kulu Makalu: 1st ase., 68 54
Kulu Pumori: 1st ase., 69 274, 70 79
2nd ase., 70 83
ill., 70 78-9
Kulu Spiti divide: glaciers of, 59 288
Sherborne expedition to, 64 254
Kunzam Peak, South: 1St ase., 61282
30
L
Kurdistan: climbing in Turkish, 71133
Kurz, M.:
his books: Chronique Himalayenne,
I940-I955,65
II8, 66 389, 424
Part II, 69 314
death, 72 320
obit. & port., 73 129
Kuwabara, T.: 'The first ascent of
Chogolisa', 64 168
Kwaja Muhammad range: ascs. in, 72 122
LACHENAL,L.: death, 61 210
Ladkin, R.: death, 60 382
Lady mountaineers: 62 12,44
Lahul: ascs. in, 60 62
expeditions to, 61 45, 279
history of exploration & climbing in,
61290
bibliography, 61 292
ill., 61 280-3
see also p 60 below
Lai Blau, Fuorcla del: 1st tourist cr.,
59456
Lake District: afforestation in, 60 171
litter & telephone wires in, 66161
Lama Surjang: asc., 60 262
Lambert, R.:
his books: (with G. Chevalley &
R. Dittert) Avant-Premieres
I'Everest, 59 352
(with C. Kogan) White Fury, 61 565
Lamjung Peak: attempt, 73 249
Lamjung Pinnacle East: asc., 73 250
Lampugnani, G.: port., 59299
Langar peaks (Hindu Kush): ascs., 70 121
Langcha: asc., 62 171
Langford, R. E.: 'The Cambridge Arctic
Canada expedition, 1961, to Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island', 67 97
Langmuir, E.: note: Mountain Rescue
Service in Czechoslovakia, 73 260
Langtrang Himal: attempt on highest
peak, 66 390
expedition to, 68 291
asc. of peak in, 68 306
nomenclature in, 69 287
Langu gorge(Nepal): passage of, 70 259
Languta-e-Barf:
1st asc., 69 274
1st asc. of S peak from Rosh Gol,
72328
Lanin: 1st & subsequent ascs., 67163
Lasonayoc: 2nd asc., 69 61
ill.,6946---7
Lauitor: 2nd cr., 59 59
Laupersbjoerg (Greenland): 2nd asc.,
a
72142
ill., 72 21Q-II
Lauteraarjoch: accident, 1880,60172
Lavaredo, Tre Cime di:
Cima Grande:
N face: ascs., 61541,64267,
65 184, 70247
by via direttissima, 64 122, 267,
65182
1st winter, 66 385
1st winter by new direct route,
68135
grading of, 66 194
ill., N face (routes), 65 184-5
Cima Ovest:
N face: ascs., 64 267, 65184,67 30,
68225
by via direttissima, 65 89
1st winter, 60 171
Cima Piccola: by Spigolo Giallo,
61 541, 70 300
description of route, 66157
by SW face of Anticima Sud, 64 267
Cima Piccolissima: by Preuss Riss,
64267
Lefroy, Mt: 1st winter asc., 72 332
Left Guardian (Pamirs): 1st tr. by N
face & NE ridge, 73 28
Lehmann, C. T.: obit., 61528
Leifer, W.: his book: Himalaya,
Mountains of Destiny, 68 157
Leininger, N.: her book: (with G.
Kogan) The Ascent of Alpamayo, 60 187
Lenin, Pik: ascs., 64 246,7331
1st asc. by E face, 73 31
1st desc. by N face, 73 32
ill., 61 324-5,7322-3
Lenzspitze: tr. to Nadelhorn, 65 218
Leon, El (Venezuela): asc., 67 285
Leonard, R. G.: his book: Nepal and
the Gurkhas, 71 178
Leopold II, H.M. King: interest in
mountaineering, 63 123
Leschaux, Aig. de: new asc. by W arc~te,
69 278
1st asc. by SW arete integrale, 70 128
by NE face, 73 99
Lha Shamma (Nepal): attempts, 68 70,
70258
1st asc., 68 73
Lho La: origin of name, 60 132
reached from S, 60 384
Lhotse: attempt, 61213
1st asc., 61247
ill., from West Cwm, 59 II4
from c. 27,000 fton Everest, 62 242-3
& Chamlang from summit of
Everest, 69 IS
Lindsay, C. S.: obit., 67 379
L
Ling, W. N.: obit., 59 336
Linsbauer, A.: 'A visit to the Chiantar
glacier region, Eastern Hindu Kush,
1967',73207
Lion, Col du: 1st cr., 60123
Liotard, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc., 67228
Lipscomb, G.: obit., 59 335
Lister, Anne: her asc. of Vignemale,
73199
Lister, G. A.: obit., 59 82
Lister, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc., 68 301
Lloyd, P.: 'Climbing in Turkish
Kurdistan', 71 133
Lloyd, R. W.: obit. & port., 63 232
Lobuje Peak: asc. of W summit, 62171
Lochmatter, Alexander: biographical
note, 70 203
Lochmatter, Franz: memorial tablet to,
63126
Lochmatter, Gabriel: death, 63 126
Lochmatter, Joseph-Marie:
biographical
note, 70 203
Lochmatter, Rafael: death, 65 236
Lofoten Islands: ascs. in, 7°132
Logan, Mt:
E Peak: 1st asc. by E ridge, 64 54
2nd asc., 65 251
2nd asc. by E ridge, 67 358
by a new route, 70 332
tr., 71316,73271
by W ridge, 72 330
by original route, 72 331
1st asc. by ESE ridge, 73 91
by Catenary ridge, 73 272
ill., 64 54
Logan Mts: ascs. in, 67 359, 69127,
7123, 317
ill.,71 IS
Lomnica (Tatra): 1st asc., 71 40
Longland, J. H.: 'Cambridge on Pumasillo', 63 9
'Bons rochers, belle varappe', 68 116
Longland, J. L.: 'Between the wars',
6283
Longley-Cook, H. St V.: note: the S
ridge of the Salbitschijen, 59 87
Longman, W.: port., 6216
Longs Peak (Colorado): 3rd asc. of the
Diamond, 73 91
ill., 71 30
Longstaff, T. G.: 'Fifty years ago', 62 133
obit., 69 322, 7°133
port., 69 323
Lonpo Gang: attempt, 66 390
1st asc., 67351
Lotschental: threatened ruination of,
67 157
31
Louis, Mt: by new route on S face,
7°333
Lourousa: asc., 70 222
Lovat, L. S.: his book (S.M. C.) :
Climber's Guide to Glencoe and
Ardgour, vol. 1,65 120
Lowe, W. G.: 'The Barun expedition,
1954',60227
note: international film festival, 64
123
his books: (with E. P. Hillary) East
of Everest, 61 422
Because it is There, 65
III
Lowndes, W. G.: obit., 61529
Loyacjirca, Nevado: 2nd asc., 65 221
3rd asc., 69 226
L-S, P.: his book: Record of an Ascent,
66409
Lugmayer, K.: 'The North face of the
Schermberg in Winter', 70 286
Luis de Savoya: see Yagan, Cerro
Lukan, K.:
his books: Die Alpen vom Mont
Ventoux bis zum Kahlenberg,
65258
(with C. W. F. Noyce) The Alps,
66407
Lukenya: climbs on, 65195
Lunkho group: ill., from Camp 2 on
Kotgaz Zorn, 72 210-1 I
Lunn, A.: 'Human nature in the Valais',
60135
'Alpine controversies', 62 144
'Geoffrey Winthrop Young', 66100,
169
letters re, 66195,424,67210
'The Swiss pioneers', 68 205
'Whymper again', 71 228
notes: Whymper's engravings, 59 344
Othmar Gurtner, 64 128
his books: The Story of Ski-ing, 59 93
Zermatt and the Valais, 60 430
A Century of Mountaineering, 62190
The Bernese Oberland, 63 267
The Swiss and their Mountains,
69148
Matterhorn Centenary, 70 353
Unkilledfor so long, 73 279
Lupke Brakk: asc., 64180
Lyngen Peak II: ill., 60 278
Lyngen Peninsula: winter mountaineering in, 60 276
Lys, Col de: crossed by a dog, 60 378
Lyskamm: tr., 59 23, 63 87
by NW ridge, 59455
by NE face, 6393, 64 268
1st winter asc. by NE face, 68 298
32
M
M, AIG. DE L': ascs., 66152
by NE ridge, 59 324
by Couzy route, 69 96
M 2 (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., 69 274
Mabu Pass: cr., 67129
'Maccabeo' (dog): death, 70 134
MacCarthy, A. H.: obit., 6:1:530
Macha Puchare: attempt, 62 I I 3
attempts banned by Nepalese
Government, 69 147
ill., from W, 62 II6
from above Camp IV, 62 II6-17
from Annapurna IV, 67 336
S face from Mardi Himal, 67 337
from Camp 3 on Gangapurna,
7:1:78-9
Machin, C. B.: obit., 69174
MacInnes, H.: 'The Creagh Dhu
Himalayan expedition, 1953',6058
'A first ascent on Mount Cook', 6:1:330
'No Yeti in Kulu', 63 223
'The South-West Pillar; Bonatti route
on the Petit Dru', 64 25
'The traverse of Shkhelda', 67 54
'In the footsteps of the masters',
64193
port., 60 58, 6:1:456
Mackay, A. M.: obit., 6:1:208
Mackay, D.: 'Thamserku', 70 90
Mackenzie, FitzArundell: biographical
note, 70 203
Mackinnon, T.: 'Scottish Nepal
expedition, 1952',59417
Macphee, G. G.: obit., 68 353
MacRobert, H.: his book: The Central
Highlands, 59 100
obit.,60 155
Magni, F.: port., 59 299
Magnone, G.: his book: La Face W. des
Drus, 59 471
Maiktoli: 2nd asc., 66 390
Maillard, C.: 'Greenland Sud', 6318
Mailleux, R.: his book: Le Roi Albert
Alpiniste,63 145
Makalu: American attempt, 1954,60 175
French recce, 1954,60175
1st asc., 6:1:13
attempt, 66 359
desc. from, 1961,68 II
ill., from tributary gl. of Barun, 59 17
from Base Camp, 60 230-1
from summit of Pethangtse, 60 232
W face, 6:1:25,6814
Makalu II: 1st asc., 60175
Makrong Chhish: ill., 66 6
Malartic, Y.: his book: La Conquete de
L' Everest par le Sherpa Tenzing, 59355
Malczewski, A.: note on, 6:1:394
Mallory, G. L.: early climbs, 73 265
Malubiting: 1st asc. of E Peak, 65 46
note on the group, 67 167
ill., E Peak from Camp 3, 65 39
massif of, 67168
Manaslu: Japanese attempt prevented,
59462
1st asc., 6:1:396
1st asc. of N Peak, 70122
Manaslu II: attempt, 66 390
Mankial: letter re 1st asc., 67408
asc., 70 209
ill., 70 213
Maps: early Alpine, 62 5,13-14,18,48
Central Elburz, 63 207
Everest region, 63 255
Ruwenzori, 64 60, 256, 67 364
Mt McKinley, 66 164
Andes of Venezuela, 69 122
Mt Kenya, 59465,7° 137
geological of Mt Blanc massif, 70 352
Khumbu Himal, 7:1:152
Afghanistan, 72 324
Hindu Kush, 73 110
see also lists in Special Districts
index
Maraini, F.: 'The Italian expedition to
Gasherbrum IV', 64 155
'A Roman flag on Saraghrar Peak',
65 151
'The South face of Mount McKinley',
68108
his books: Karakoram, 67 184
Where Four Worlds Meet, 70163
Marbore, Tour du: N face: attempt,
6:1:542
Marchart, D.: 'The North face of the
Matterhorn', 67 26
death, 68 131
Marcus, R. B. : her book: The Book of
Glaciers, 68 334
Marcus Baker, Mt: 2nd asc., 72 330
Mardi Himal (Nepal): 1st asc., 67 336
Marindin, G. E.: long membership of
A.C., 59 214
Mariner, W.: his book: Mountain Rescue
Techniques, 70 348
Markbreiter, C. G.: obit., 68 355
Marmolada (Bugaboo): 1st asc. by S.
face, 65 23
ill., 65 22-3
Marmolada (Dolomites): by S face,
6733,70299
1st winter asc. by S face, 72 323
Marmolejo: ill., & Marmolejo Norte
from NW, 68 224-5
M
Maroon Bells (Colorado): ill., NE faces,
7230-1
Marsden, A. D.: his book: Climbing
Guide to Gibraltar, 71 183
Masherbrum:
attempts, 60 385, 61 29,
63169
1st asc., 65 248, 67 9
ill., from Base Camp, 61 32
SE face (route), 63 173,67 14-15
showing twin summits, 63180
summit & W Peak, 67 22
Mason, K.:
note: a new map of Everest, 63 255
the new map of Mt McKinley, 66
164
a new map of the Khumbu Himal,
71 152
his book: Abode of Snow, 60416
Matathumba
(Nepal): 1st asc., 67 126
ill.,67126-7
Matchu Suchi Coochi (Andes): asc.,
65176
Mather, J. N.: 'The Peuterey ridge',
594°2
Mathews, C. E.: port., 62 34
Mathews, W.: port., 6216
Matri: asc. disputed, 69 146
Matterhorn :
1st asc.: rope broken on, 60 381
Taugwalder's
narrative, 61 484
notes on, 61 493
effects of the accident, 62 39
apparition on, 62 182
Hadow's boots on, 63124
fees paid to the Taugwalders,
63255
centenary of, 70 7
celebrations at Zermatt, 70 191
corrections & additions to
articles re, 70 323
documents relating to, 70 IS
events after the disaster, 70 199
comments on the accident, 71 124
E face: 2nd asc., 59 46 I
1st winter, 64 247
N face:
ascs.: 59 462, 61 542, 65 88, 66 377,
6726
1st solo, 67 29
1st winter, 67 157
1st winter solo, 70 317
4th winter, 73 43
W face: 1st direct asc., 68126
SW ridge: solo asc., 60 378
SE (Furggen ridge): 1st British direct
asc., 64 268
other ascs., 67 340
33
NW (Zmutt) ridge: accident, 64 248
and the early guides, 6z 22
'1st asc.', 63127
asc., 64 310
solo, 70 197
tr., 67 223
solo, 67 85
attempts by Parker brothers, 68 285
some dates in the history of, 70 8
random thoughts on, 70 38
an impression from Italy, 7043
four ar~tes in one day, 72 131
televised asc., 1965,72246
ill., 59 202, 70 14
E face, 61 488
S face, 6248
Zmutt ar~te & Tiefenmatten
face,
6249
N face, 67 26
party of 1st asc., 7014-15
from the Hohbalm, 7015
Maudit, Mt: by frontier ridge, 63 246,
69 96
1st asc., by Brenva face direct, 64 269
ill., N face, 66 79
Maurys, Pierre: death, 69 291
Mauthner, M. K.: obit., 60156
Mayo gl.; ill., 65 164-5
Mayo, P. W. F.: obit., 64249
McArthur, H.: 'Central Lahul', 61 279
obit., 64 102
McArthur, Mt (Alaska): asc., 67 358
McCall, J. B. : note: climbs in Ireland,
65106
McCauley, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 65 251
McClymont, W. G.: his book: The
Exploration of New Zealand, 64 276
McDonald, A. H.: 'Hannibal's passage
of the Alps', 61 93
McKinley, Mt:
ascs.: 1st from S, 59463
of N Peak, 59463,67
355
1st by NW buttress, 6031
1st by S buttress & 1st tr., 60 176,
367
by Japanese climbers, 65 222, 71317
1st British, 67 348, 71 19
by S face, 67 355, 68 108
by Pioneer Ridge, 67 355
1st by E spur, 68 319
1st by Wickersham Wall, 69 127
by W buttress, 67 356, 70 331,
72329
total ascs. to date, 67 357
1st winter, 72 329, 73 268
various, 67 356, 68319,72329
accidents, 60 176, 368,7391,268,269
34
M
McKinley, Mt.:
new routes on, 65 251, 69 297
new map of, 66 164
attempt by Wickersham Wall, 67 356
Services expedition to, 7r. 19
renaming of twin peaks of, 7r. 149
ill., NW buttress, 60 32
route taken on 1st asc. of S buttress,
60368
S face, 68 110
from S, 7r. 14-15
McMorris, W. B.: his book: The Real
Book of Mountaineering, 67 194
McNaught, W.: obit., 59 210
McNaught-Davis,
I.: 'The Hjornespids',
66 256
'British-Soviet Pamirs expedition,
1962' (part II), 68 243
Meade, C. F.: his book: High Mountains,
6019°,439
note: Pierre Blanc, 7r. 146
Mears, R. P.: obit., 67155
Meciani, P.: his book: Le Ande: monografiageografico-alpinistica, 7r. 181, 339
Medagstind (Norway): asc., 60 278
ill., 60 279
Medicine: high altitude, 59 493
Medley, J. F.: obit., 65 224
Meets (other than A.C.): Army
Mountaineering
Assoc., 65 214,
66 155
French International, 1967,739
Meier, K. E.: death, 70 143
Meije, Breche de la: cr., 64 263
Meije, La: 1st winter asc. by S face,
62178
tr., 64 263, 67 219
rock fall on, 69 283
by W face, 72 99, 73 96
by S face, 73 96
Meiling, 0.: 'Mount San Valentin',
59432
Melbourne, W. H.: 'The Imperial
College expedition to the Nudo de
Apolobamba, 1959',65 175
Mengel, E. C.: obit., 65 267
Menlung gl.: ill., 6r. 56-7
Mensforth, E.: 'A note on access to the
High Atlas, Southern Morocco', 6771
Menzies, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc.,
67166
Mera La: reached, 59 109
Mercanton, P. L.: death, 69 282
Mercedario: new route & accident on,
65242
Mercers Peak (Wokkpash):
ill., 66 46
1st asc., 66 47
Merezenbachliicke:
1st tourist cr.,
59457
Merida, Sierra Nevada de: expedition
to, 67 280
bibliography, 67 286
ill., 67 282-3
Merrick, H.: 'Everest: the Chinese
photograph', 67 310, 6848
his books: Out of the Night, 63 144
The Great Motor Highways of the
Alps, 64 145, 67 195
The Perpetual Hills, 70 169
Merriman, S.de V.: obit., 6r. 532
Mexico: mountains of, 70 48
Meyer family: their climbs, 68 209
Meyer, H. A.: 'The Centenary Reception-A
Royal Occasion', 63 80
Middleton, D.: her book: Victorian
Lady Travellers, 70 169
Middleton, L. M.: 'The Campanile
Basso di Brenta, 1899-1959',66
304
Midgard, Mt (Baffin Island): 1st asc.,
67102
Midi, Aig. du: by route Rebuffat, 63 245
1st asc. of N Summit by W ridge,
65222
by SE face, 66 152
by new route on Chamonix side,
67219
2nd asc. by central eperon of N face,
7°314
Midi, Dents du: 1st asc. by NE ridge
integrale, 70 316
Migot, A.: his book: Tibetan Marches,
60189
Migot, Pte: 1st asc. by N eperon,
69278, 70 129
Mills, E. J. E.: 'The Parachute Brigade
Alaska expedition, 1956',62121
'The A.M.A. Alpine meet, 1959',
65214
'Two journeys in Swat Kohistan', 6742
his book: Airborne to the Mountains,
67189
death, 67 342
obit., 67 380
Milne, M.: his book: (with M. Heller)
The Book of European Skiing, 72 172
Milner, C. D.: 'A century of mountain
photography', 62 157
his book: Mont Blanc and the
Aiguilles, 60 428
Minapin (Diran): attempt, 63 261
Mingbo Saddle: cr., 60 238
Minya Konka: note on 1st asc., 63 130
2nd asc., 63 194
ill., 63 196-7
M
Mir Samir: attempts, 6:1:538,66140
3rd asc., 72122
5th asc., 73 90
ill., from SE, 6:1:538
from col into Nuristan, 72 62-3
Mishirgi Tau: by S buttress, 64 260
Mitchell, G. A.: death, 70 133
Mitchell, Mrs: death, 63 134
Mitre (Aling gl.): asc., 67 81
Mitre (Andes): asc., 69 43
ill., 69 46-7
Mitre Peak (New Zealand): by a new
route, 70 334
Moffat, G.:
her books: Space below my Feet, 66 41 I
Two Star Red, 70 173
On my Home Ground, 73 279
Moine, Aig. du: tr., 6:1:78
asc., 6:1:540
by E face, 66 152
Moine-Nonne,
Breche: 1st desc. by E
face, 59465
Momhil Sar: 1st asc., 70 69
ill., 70 78-9
Monch:
ascs.: 6:1:338
1st from Wengernalp, 59 56
2nd from Wengernalp, 59 59
1st winter, 59 60
1st winter asc. by N face, 68 298
by N face, 69 133
Mongejura (Norway): 1st asc. by S face,
731°3
Moni-La: cr., 60 51
Montanvert: in the eighteen-nineties,
63216
Montgomrey, J. E.: obit., 70 369
Monton Rojo (Chile): 1st asc., 67 170
Monzino, G.:
his books: Spedizioni d' Alpinismo in
Groenlandia, 72 342
Spedizioni d'Alpinismo in Africa,
72343
Moore, A. W.: 'The Caucasus in 1874',
60 305, 6:1:123
port., 60 306, 62 25
Mooser, Kaspar: death, 7:1:148
Moose's Tooth (Alaska): 1st asc. of W
Peak, 68 263
1st asc., 69 276, 70 331
Mora, M.: his book: (with J. Franco)
Ski de France, 67 372
Morado, Cerro Falso (Chile): ill., &
Morado,6717°
Moravec, F.: 'Dhaulagiri, 1959', 65 I I
Morin, N.: her book: A Woman's Reach.
Mountaineering Memoirs, 73 282
35
Morris, James: 'Climbing from the
outside', 69 63
his book: Coronation Everest, 63 266
Morris, John:
his books: Hired to Kill, 66 410
A Winter in Nepal, 69 158
Morrish, R. L.: 'The Banff-Jasper
Highway, 1952',5933
Morrison, A. M.: port., 72 274
Morrison, C.: his Alpine expeditions,
72327
Morrison-Bell, A. C.: obit., 6:1:369
Morteratsch, Piz: an early asc., 63 46
Moscow-Peking Peak: 1st asc., 64 246
Moseley, R.: 'The Petit Dru by the
West face', 6025
Mostowski, J.: 'In the Tatra Mountains',
6826
Moulam, A. J. J.: British Isles notes,
70146,7:1: 154,72151
his books: Cwm Idwal, 69 313
Carneddau, 72 349
Mould, D. D. C. P.: his book: The
Mountains of Ireland, 6:1:230
Mountain nomenclature: suggested
principles, 7:1:144
Mountain rescue: Lyons section of the
C.A.F. on, 62 183,
in Czechoslovakia, 73 260
Mountain World, The: reviewed:
1954, 60 191
1962-3, 69 3 II
1955,6:1: 225
1964-5,7:1: 334
1956-'7, 64 141
1966-7, 73283
1958-9,64141
Mountaineer and the law, the: 60 379,
6:1:209
Mountaineering:
survey of: in earliest times, 62 4
1854-65, 62 16
1865-80,6239
1880-1900,6252
1901-14,6262
1919-39,6283
1939-56, 62 98
Polish, 72 103
& the Press, 66 159
mass,66159
hereditary, 66 160
Mountaineering journals: reviewed,
59222, 484, 6°433, 6:1:579,
63 154,267,64149,65
121,66 179,
413,67196,68159,337,69164,314,
70175,354,7:1: 185, 34°,72 171,
179,351,73127,292
Mountains: in art, 62 10
electrical observations from, 63 259
Mouse: a venturesome, 64 131
Mrigthuni: attempt, 60 257
1Stasc., 63 261
Mukar Beh: 1Stasc., 73 245
attempt & accident, 73 246
ill., 73 244-5
Mulgrew, P.: his book: No Place for
Men, 7x 182
Mulhacen: winter asc., 68 62
Milller, Abraham: death, 68 300
Mummery, A. F.: an unrecorded
expedition, 59216
notes on, 60 II8
election to Alpine Club, 60 120, 127,
437
letter from Nanga Parbat, 60 130
as a climber, 63 218, 221
port., 60 120, 121,6252-3
Mummery, Mrs A. F.: port., 60 121
Munjan Pass: ascs. from, 72 122
Munos Gamero Peninsula: visited,
67267
Murallon, Cerro (Patagonia): summit
ridge reached, 67 257
ill., 67 251
Murray, A. E.: obit., 68170
Murray, A. G.: obit., 63 238
Murray, G. W.: 'How the hangman
lost his drop', 66 85
his book: Dare me to the Desert, 73 126
obit. & port., 7x 348
Murray, W. H.:
his books: The Scottish Himalayan
Expedition, 59 85
The Story of Everest, 59 220
Highland Landscape, 67 375
Mountaineering in Scotland, 68 157
(with J. E. B. Wright) The Craft of
Climbing, 70 172
Mustagh (Swat): by NW ridge, 7x 215
Mustagh Ata: 1Stasc., 6x 549, 6478
asc. by Chinese women, 64 258
Muztagh Tower: 1Stasc., 6x 253
2nd asc., 6x 396
ill., from SE, 6x 252
from SW, 6x 253
E summit, 6x 261
Myth: an Antarctic, 65 236
NAEss,A.: 'Some ethical considerations
with a view to mountaineering in
Norway', 73 230
Naismith, W. W.: his book: (with E. W.
Hodge) The Islands of Scotland
(excluding Skye), 59 101
Nakao, S.: his book: Living Himalayan
Flowers, 7X 180
Nalumasortoq: ill., 68 256-7
Nampa: identified, 59425
ill., 59424-5
Nanda Devi: attempt, 66 390
2nd asc., 69 290
Nanda Kot: 2nd asc., 64 245
Nanga Parbat: 1st asc., 59 216,371
Diamir face: attempt, 67 169
1Stasc. by, 67 35I
Rupal face: attempt, 69 289
Nangpa La: cr., 5913
Nau Lekh: asc., 60 237
Negri, -: port., 59 299
Negri, N. C.: 'Aspects of winter
mountaineering in the Norwegian
Arctic', 60 276
Negruni Range (Andes): ascs. in,
68221,222
ill., 68 224
Nehru Institute of Mountaineering:
foundation of, 7X 148
Neill, J.: note: climbs in Wales, 65 103,
67173
his books: Selected Climbs in the
Pennine Alps, 67 376
(with T. Jones) Snowdon South,
7x 336
Nelson, M.: 'Astray in the Andes',
69 217
Nelson, P. S.: obit., 64 104
Nepal: Scottish expedition, 1952,59417
Tyson's expedition: 1953,59421
to West, 1961, 6x 120
1964,70254
ban on mountaineering expeditions
to, 70329
see also p 6I below
Nesthorn:
ascs.: by SE ridge, 59 208, 345
by N face: 2nd, 6x 208
3rd, 65 222
4th, 67 158
Nettleton, C. W.: obit., 68 170
Nevada, Sierra (Spain): winter
expedition to, 68 61
Nevada, Sierra (U.S.A.): ascs. in,
69298
new ascs. in, 73 274
Nevis, Ben: annual race, 68136
Newby, P.: 'Journey to the Blue Valley',
7265
New Guinea: expedition to, 66 394,
6878
Newton, H. E.: note: A. C. Graham,
63127
obit., 67 382
Newton, Mt (Alaska): 1Stasc., 70 332
Newton, Mt (Spitsbergen): asc., 66 167
o
New Zealand: air survey of Southern
Alps, 59442, 60 365
early climbs in, 62 75
conditions in, 6275
notes, 60 143, 391,61 399,63 135,
264,64251,65249,66
393, 67 366,
68323,69 300, 70 334, 71319,
72334,73275
see also p 63 below
Ngojumba Ri:
1st asc.: 70 330, 73 lIS
correct date of, 72 141
il1.,73 23
Nicholas Nickleby: quotation from,
69 181
Nicol, H. G.: 'The North face of Mount
Kenya and other climbs', 69 81
Nilgiri: 1st asc. of N Peak, 68 139
il1.,59 303
Nilkanta:
1st asc.: 66 390
disputed, 68 139,69 145
Ninashhanca: attempts, 69 lIO
Nobaisum Zorn: 1st asc., 73 89
Nock, P.: his book: Rock Climbing,
68334
Noelting, F. A. M.: obit., 70 370
North America: see P 55 below
North American notes: 65 251, 67 355,
68319,69 297, 70 331, 71316,
72 329, 73 268
Norton, E. F.: obit. & port., 60157
Norway: ascs. in, 67 338, 68 291
heights of highest mountains in,
67347
ethical considerations re mountaineering in, 73 230
see also p 54 below
Noshaq:
ascs.: 1st and 2nd, 66 244
3rd,69 124
1st of W Peak, 69 124
ill., S ridge, 66 244-5
& Kuh-e-Mandaras, 71 212-13
Nowill, S. E. P.: 'Sat Dag, Hakkari,
1966',72 II7
Noyce, C. W. F.: 'Climbing the Fish's
Tail', 62 II3
'Nordwands for the ageing', 65 27
'Ascent of Trivor', 66 9
'Climbing solo in the High Atlas',
6765
his books: (with E. C. Pyatt) British
Crags and Climbers, 59 101
South Col, 60 183
(with G. W. Young & G. Sutton)
Snowdon Biography, 61561
37
Noyce, C. W. F.: his books:
The Gods are Angry, 63 143
The Springs of Adventure, 63 266
Climbing the Fish's Tail, 64 139
(with G Sutton) Samson: The Life
and Writings of Menlove
Edwards, 65 253
Poems,66173
(with K. Lukan) The Alps, 66407
To the Unknown Mountain, 67191
They Survived, 68 143
The Climber's Fireside Book, 70169
death, 67 342
obit. & port., 67 384
Numbur: 1st asc., 68 306
Nun Kun: 1st asc., 59 216,341
Niinlist, H.: his book: Spitsbergen,
71330
Nup La: 1st cr., 59 14
Nuptse: 1st asc., 66 209
ill., 66 212
OBELISKS,
PASSOF THE:cr., 7°312,
71246
Oberlin, J. C.: 'Invitation to the Andes',
60 69
Obispo: see Altar
O'Brien, E.: obit., 73 106
Ocshapalca: attempt, 67 166
1st complete asc., 71 138
Odell, N. E.: 'Air survey of Southern
Alps', 59 442
'Mount Ruapehu, New Zealand',
60 108
'Lho La', 60 132
'The Southern Alps from end to end',
60 365
notes: Golden Jubilee of the Norsk
Tindeklub, 63 262
China and the Tibetan frontier
claims, 65 238
Ben Nevis race, 68 136
Kolahoi Northern glacier, 68138
the ice-axe found on Everest in
1933,68141
tenth anniversary of the first ascent
of Everest, 69 142
Kingspitz, 69 290
supposed Tibetan name of
Everest, 69 290
a Canadian centenary, 72142
Ogilvie, I. H.: 'Crozzon di Brenta',
67275
O'Higgins, Cerro: 1st asc., 65 242
O'Higgins gJ.: description of, 65 170
Ojeda, Pic (Colombia): by S ridge,
62179
Ojos del Salado: 2nd & 3rd ascs., 61397
height, 61 549
Oker Gorge (Harz Mountains): guide to
rock climbs, 65 237
Oksfjord Peninsula: ases. in, 61 205
Olan, L': 1st asc. of NW wall of N
summit, 61 542
2nd asc., 72132
1st winter asc. by Devies-Gervasutti
spur, 65 222
solo ase., 72 132
Oldham, J. B.: obit., 68172
01 Doinyo Lengai (Africa): ascs., 71 323
eruption, 72 336
ill·,72307
Old records: 72 323
Olga, Mt (Australia): description of,
67318
ill., 67 314-15
Oliver, G.: his book: (with L. J. Sutton)
Scafell Group, 73 291
Olsen, J.: his book: The Climb up to
Hell, 68 158
One hundred years ago: 62 177,63253,
64237,65229,66378,67343,68297,
69282,70320,71
307,72320,73255
Orizaba, Pico de: see Citlatepetl
Orobian Alps: ascs. & passages in, 66
155
Osborne, A. W.: obit., 73136
Osler, J. A.: obit., 59 84
Osmaston, H. A.: 'Arnie! and Rwot',
69228
his book (with D. Pasteur): Guide to
Rock Climbs in Uganda, 69 312
Ossau, Grand Pic d': 1st asc. by S
buttress, 64 268
Oughton, F.: obit., 7314°
Oulton, E. V.: obit., 70187
Ovchinnikov, A.: (with E. Gippenreiter)
U.S.S.R. notes, 1959-63, 69 293
PACHANTA:1st asc., 64 40
Packe, Charles: note on, & port., 65 80
Padre Eterno (Andes): attempt, 70 243
Paget, Mt (South Georgia): 1st asc. of
W Peak, 66 166, 67 226
1st asc. of highest peak, 70 125, 313
Paget-Tomlinson,
E. E.: obit., 59 213
Paglia Orba: 1st asc. by NW face, 67 152
ill., 72 96
Pai Chin-Hsiao: 'The ascent of Amne
Machin', 66 274
Pain de Sucre: by N face, 60 374
Pain de Sucre, Col du: reached from NE,
59461,60171
cr., 60 374
Paine, Cordillera de!: expeditions to,
61 398,67 15°,73 143
ascs.:
North Tower: 1st, 63 259
2nd & 3rd, 68 186
Central Tower: 1st, 68124, 179
2nd, 68 124, 186
South Tower: 1st, 68 186
Paine Grande: Central summit:
1st, 61398
South summit: 1st, 61 398
Principal summit: 1st, 63 259
future prospects in, 73 153
list of principal 1st ascs. in, 73 157
ill., 67 150
from E, 68 192
from W, 68 192-3
Paine Grande, 68 192-3
Palacio del Inca: ruins of, 6993
Palcaraju: attempts, 65 220
2nd asc., 70 124
Pallin, H. N.: obit., 59 338
Palomares, Nevado: 1st & 2nd ascs.,
71 139
Palomo, EI.: asc., 65 55
Palii, Piz: 1st asc., 61545
E Peak: 1st authentic asc., 6349
accident, 64 122
Pamirs: search for Abominable Snowman
in, 65 99
proposed expedition to, 66 391
British-Soviet expedition, 1962,
6890,243
medallions for members of, 68 301
Austrian expedition, 1967,7325
Panaio Toupa: asc., 6158
Pangbuk: 2nd asc., 6158
Pangnirtung Pass: ill., 67 1°3
Papsura: reece, 71 244
1st asc., 72 315, 73 158
ill., 72 306-7
from W, 71 244-5
& Dharmsura, 73156-7
from Camp 1,73 157
Paradis, Grand: 1st winter asc. by NW
face, 62 178
asc., 67 221
by NW face, 72 319
ill., 59 202-3
Parchamo: 1st asc., 6156
Parehola: asc., 60 262
Paredones group: ill., 64 233
Parker brothers: their attempts on the
Matterhorn, 68 285
Parquet, Rochers du: by E face superdirect, 64270
climbs on, 70 252
P
Parry, C. W.: obit., 65 268
Pasang Lama: & Chomolhari, 73 115
Pascoe, J.:
his books: Land Uplifted High, 59 96
Mr. Explorer Douglas, 63 153
Great Days in New Zealand
Mountaineering, 64 138
Great Davs in New Zealand
Exploration, 65, 257
Pasteur, C. H.: 'At the Montanvert in
the eighteen-nineties', 63 216
obit. & port., 60 406
Pasteur, D.: 'An expedition to the Emin
and Gessi area on Ruwenzori',
69191
East African notes, 65 243, 67 361,
68326, 69 302, 70 336, 73 276
his book: (with H. A. Osmaston)
Guide to Rock Climbs in Uganda,
69 312
Pasteur, H. W.: port., 60 406
Pasteur, M.: port., 60 406
Patagonia: ascs. in, 63 259
expeditions to, 65 158, 68230,7393,
143, 186
see also p 57 below
Patagonian ice-cap: cr., 61271,67353,
69 183
journey over, 67 250
Patey, T. W.: 'Post-war winter mountaineering in Scotland', 65 186
port., 63 165
Patriot, Pik (Pamir): asc., 68 95, 98
ill., 68 94-5
Patterson, G. N.: his book: Tibetan
Journey, 59478
Pause, W.: his book: Salute the
Mountains, 68 158
Pave, Le: by S face, 60 374
Paynter, T.: his book: The Ski and the
Mountain, 60 194
Payot, Frederic: biographical note,
7°2°3
Peacock, J. D. C.: 'Sandhurst in
Greenland, 1966',7245
'Sukkertoppen Wedding Cake: The
A.M.A. expedition, 1967',73 234
Peacocke, T. A. H.: 'The Alpine Club
Centenary dinner at Zermatt',
6351
'A first visit to the New Zealand
Alps', 72 252
note: Zermatt museum, 64 130
his book: Mountaineering, 59 365, 498
Peak, A (Huagaruncho massif): 1st asc.,
61446
Peak 3 (Yukon): 1st asc., 73 21
39
Peak VI (Barun valley): ill., 60 233
Peak 19,275 ft (Cordillera Blanca): ill.,
6072-3
Peak 5507 (S Georgia): ill., 61 468
Pearce, J. : obit., 59 79
Pegasus Peak (Alaska): asc., 62130
Peigne, Aig. du: by N ridge, 5927,
60371,61540,63246,64261,
70298
Pelechuco Huaracha: 1st asc., 65 88,176
Pelle, la (Vercors): byW face, 70 316
Pellissier, Camillo: death, 71314
Pelvoux, Mt:
ascs.: 1st, 59464
2nd winter, 59462
Penhall, W.: port., 7014-15
Penitentes, Cordillera de los: ascs. in,
61540
Pentedhaktilos: E-W tr., 60 370
Pepper, L. R.: 'Some climbs on the
South face of Mont Blanc', 6665
Perouse, la (New Zealand): 1st asc. by
S ridge, 65 250
Perouse, la (N America): asc., 65 251
Perren, Bernard: death, 66 163
Perren, Peter: port., 6234
Perrons, Les: by NW face, 66154
Perseverance, Aig. de la: by NE ridge,
60168
Personality: and climbing, 73167
Peru: see P 56 below
Peruvian notes: 70 144
Pesciora, Passo Superiore di: 1st cr.,
59456
Pethangtse: 1st asc., 59462,60233
Petrig, Cesar: death, 70 325
Pettigrew, R.: 'The Derbyshire
Himalayan expedition, 1961',
67323,6852
'The ascent of Kulu Pumori', 70 74
'Across the Sara Umga La', 71 236
'Bruce's Solang Weisshorn', 72 201
'Papsura climbed', 73158
Peuterey, Aig. Noire de:
ascs.:
by S ridge, 59 30, 60 371, 61 541
by W face, 60 371
1st winter, 72 322
1st by N ridge, 61 541
by E ridge, 64 203
tr., 61 472
accident, 64 248
ill., & Fauteuil des Allemands, 59 24-5
S ridge from near Gamba hut,
5924-5
upper portion of S ridge, 59 25
Brenva face, 61 472
4° P
Peuterey, Aig. Noire de:
from Col de la Fourche, 6670
from E, showing S ridge, 66 268-9
& Aig. Blanche, with Fresnay g\.,
66269
from below Pta Gugliermina, 66 272
Pfann, Hans: death, 63 257
Phillips, Mrs: death, 60 178
Phillips, T. B. H.: 'The Grand Traverse
of Mount Kenya, 1964',70294
Phillpotts, J. S.: biographical notes,
63 123
Phirtse La: cr., 64 87
Photography:
a century of mountain,
62 157
wide base stereoscopic, 72 95
Phrulrang (Nepal): asc., 69125
Phurbi Chyachu: ill., 61 60-1
Piacenza, M.: obit., 65 228
Piaz, T.: his book: Le Diable des
Dolomites, 69 3 II
Pichincha: note re 1st asc., 68 302
Pickard, R.: obit., 5979
Pictures: Alpine, 64 129
Pier Giorgio (Patagonia): 1st asc., 69 126
Pierre, B.: 'Le Saicantay et la Cordillera
de Vilcabamba', 59 307
'The mountams of Elburz', 61 63
his books: La Conquete du Salcantay,
59357
Une Montagne nommee Nun Kun,
59472
Pierre Joseph, Pte Superieure de: by NE
couloir, 61 542
Pigou, A. C.: obit., 64 289
Pilier d' Angle, Grand: 2nd asc. by E
face, 70 317
Pilkington, L. & P.: port., 62 52-3
Pilley, D.: her book: Climbing Days,
71 183
Pimu: asc., 6156
Pingero (Himalaya): asc., 60 60
Pinggera, Hans Sepp: death, 68 300
Pinnacle (Hindu Kush): asc., 72 70
Pinnacle Peak (Kanjiroba Himal): 1st
asc., 67 351
Pischinger, R.: 'The first ascent of
Momhil Sar', 70 69
Pisco (Andes): asc., 69 90
ill., from Huandoy, 60 82
from below col to "V, 69 94-5
Pitons, ice-: 1st use in the Alps, 72 138
Pivano, C.: obit., 68 356
Placidus II Spescha: life & climbs,
68205
Plan, Aig. du: by N face, 60 371, 61 541,
64200
Plan, Aig. du:
by E ridge, 60 372
by W face, 67 216
1st asc. by W eperon, 70 315
Plateau Peak (Hindu Kush): 1st asc.,
7321 I
Plattischen Pass: 1st tourist cr., 59457
Pleydell-Bouverie,
B: obit., 71 196
Pobeda, Pik: 1st asc., 63 258
Poincenot, Aig.: 1st asc., 67 236
ill., 67 238-9, 239
Pt 16,800 ft (Kulu): 1st asc., 71 247
Pt 2 1,760 ft (Bara Shigri): possibilities
of asc., 70 77
Pt 18,200 ft (Bara Shigri): asc., 7078
Pt 2140 m (Greenland): asc., 72 53
Pt 16,800 ft (Kulu): asc., 70 3II
Pokalde (Nepal): 1st asc., 59 IIO, 139
Poland: mountaineering
clubs in, 67 161
mountaineering
in, 72 103
visit to Britain by mountaineers from,
72136
Polleras, Cerro: attempt, 61 540
Pollinger, Alexander: death, 59 345, 459
Polyakov, A.: 'Conquest of first 7000
metre peak', 63 203
'The first ascent and first traverse of
Victory Peak', 64 74
Pontresina: early expeditions from, 63 44
Popocatepetl: asc., 70 52
ill., from Ixtaccihautl, 70 54-5
crater of, 70 55
Portalet, Petit Clocher du: 1st asc. by
NE face, 63 246
Portcullis II (Karakoram): attempt, 67 82
Porter, C. R.: obit., 67 391
Porter, E.: his book: The Place No One
Knew, 70 171
Porter, H. E. L.: 'After the Matterhorn,
1865-80',6239
'Memories', 67 213
notes: A. C. Graham, 63128
the Hermitage, 63 129
Potocki, J.: death, 72 123
Poulet, G.: 'Aconcagua, face Sud:
l'assaut', 60 20
his book: (with R. Ferlet) Aconcagua,
South Face, 61415
Pranavananda,
S.: 'The Abominable
Snowman', 61 IIO
Pra Sec, Aigs. de: by S ridge, 60 165
Predigstuhl: by W face, 63 120,70249
Press, the: & mountaineering,
66159
Preuss, P.: & artificial climbing, 68 299
Price, J. S.: obit., 64 293
Pride and Prejudice: quotation from,
68362
R
Prince Charles Mts: location, 61214
Pritchard, H. J. M.: obit., 65 268
Proboscis, Mt (Canada): by SE face,
69298
Prusik, K.: death, 67 158
Pryce, H. L.: obit., 71 196
Pucahirca North: 1st asc., 61201
ill., from Punta Union Pass, 69 94-5
from Quitaraju, 69213
Pucapuca: asc. of peak immediately S of,
6952
Pucaranra: by NE ridge, 65 220
Pudding Peak (Swat): tr., 70 210
Puerta de Yanama (Andes): asc., 69 55
Pugh, L. G. C.: 'Some effects of high
altitude on man', 61 507
Pulpit (Coast Range): asc., 71300
Pumadablam: asc., 66 349
Pumasillo: 1st asc., 63 9
attempt, 69 46
explorations NE of, 69 47
ill., W face, 63 14
from Cabeza Blanca, 69 46-7
Pumori: attempt, 60 58
accident, 67 169
1st asc., 67 351
Punjab Himalaya: ascs. in, 69124
Punta Hoft, Cerro (Chile): 1st asc.,
67353
Punta Union Pass (Andes): cr., 69 92
Puntiagudo, Nevado (Picacho): location
& history, 66 164
ill., 65220
Punzones Range (Andes): 1st asc. of
highest peak of, 65 58
Purcell Range: ascs. in, 6518
Purtscheller, Aig.: by W face, 63 246
Putha Hiunchuli: 1st asc., 60 254
ill., from head of Kaya Khola, 60 255
from above Camp II, 68 208-9
Pyatt, E. C.:
his books: (with C. W. F. Noyce)
British Crags and Climbers, 59 101
(with R. W. Clark) Mountaineering
in Britain, 64 275
Where to Climb in the British Isles,
66 175
Mountains of Britain, 71 338
Pye, D. R.: obit., 65 269
Pyramid (Alaska): asc., 72115
Pyramid, the:
ilL, from plateau between East
Haundoy & Pisco, 60 72-3
from Huandoy, 6082
Pyramid Peak (Swat): asc., 70 21 I
Pyramid Peak (Himalaya): 1st asc.,
60386
41
Pyramid (Pt 6778 m Hindu Kush): 2nd
asc., 73 89
Pyrenees: see P 54 below
QAZI-DEHVALLEY:ascs. from, 72 123
Qioqe Peninsula (Greenland): expedition
to, 72128
ill., 73 62-3
Queen Mary, Mt (St Elias range): 1st
asc., 67 358
Quitaraju: asc., 65 221, 69226
ill., 69 212-13
Qungur:
1st asc.: 61 549
description of, 62 183
Quota IGM: proposed change of name,
69 135
RACH-E-DARos: 1st asc., 66 248
Rakaposhi: attempts, 59462, 6048,
61449
1st asc., 63159
ill., summit pyramid & Monk's Head,
6048
from W, 61 450, 63 164
from foot of SW spur, 61 457
Rakpa Peak: attempt, 66 349
Ramchukor Peak: 1st asc., 70 311,
71242
Ramgul Pass: cr., 69252
Rana, Maharajah Sir J. S. J. B.: death,
5986
Rapiu La: origin of name, 64 242
Rappels: 66 365,367
Rasac, Nevado: 3rd asc., 71151
4th asc., 72146
1st asc., of Central Peak, 72 146
Rassemblement International
d'Alpinistes: 70 318
Rast Darrah (Hindu Kush): 1st asc.,
7272
ill., 72 62-3
Rataban: asc., 60 260
Ratang Tower: ase., 61 461
Rata Pahar: attempt, 60 260
Ratz, Mt (Coast Range): 1st ase., 71
297
2nd, 71 299
Rausch, S.: 'Geralan Chitral expedition, 1965',71215
Ravanel, Aig.: ase., 61 78
ill., 61 72-3
Ravanel, Camille: death, 70 324
Ravelli, F.: port., 59 299
Rawiez, S.: his book: The Long Walk,
61419
42
R
Rawlinson, A. K.: 'Three RyanLochmatter climbs', 59 65
'Crescendo', 1939-56',6298
'The training of Val d'Aosta guides',
70262
'The Alpine Club and the Alpine
Climbing Group', 72 197
notes: tenth anniversary of the first
ascent of Everest, 68 303
Camillo Pellissier, 71 314
new type of ice-axe, 73 265
Real, Cordillera (Bolivia): general
description, 64 44
mountains & mountaineering, 6446
list of 1st ascs. in, 6449
bibliography, 64 52
ascs. in, 72 127
expedition to, 1966, 72 292
peaks climbed by, 72 302
ill., 72 290-1
Rebuffat, G.:
his books: Etoiles et Tempetes (Six
Faces Nord), 59474
Le Metier de Guide, 60 293
Mont Blanc to Everest, 61 417
Starlight and Storm, 61 421
Mont Blanc, Jardin Feerique, 68 329
On Snow and Rock, 69160
Cervin-Cime Exemplaire, 70 350
Men and the Matterhorn, 72 344
Recce Peak (Andes): asc., 66 151
Redondo (Andes): 2nd asc., 6945
Red Ridge (W okkpash): 1St asc., 66 49
Reid, I. C.: his book (editor): Guide
Book to Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro,
69161
Reiss, E.: 'Old climbs and new in the
Bernese Oberland', 72 289
Republique, Aig. de la: asc., 66152
Requin, Capucin du: by NE face,
66152
Requin, Dent du: asc., 61541,7239
Rescue charges: Alpine, 65 97
Revelation Mts (Alaska): ascs. in, 73 270
Revolution, Pic de la (Pamirs): 1st asc.,
60 383
Richard, C.: her book: Climbing Blind,
71338
Rickmers, W. R.: obit., 70 372
Riddell, J.:
his books: The Ski Runs of
Switzerland,63 148
The Ski Runs of Austria, 64 144
Right Guardian (Pamirs): asc., 73 28
Rimpfischhorn:
asc., 65 217
Ripimu La: cr., 6158
Ripimu valley: ill., ice peak of, 61 56-7
Risch, Walter: death, 71310
Roberts, A. B.: obit., 73 299
Roberts, A. R.: his book: (with others)
Himalayan Holiday, 60425
Roberts, D.: 'The West face of Mount
Huntington',
7115
Roberts, E. E.: obit., 65 227
Roberts, J. O. M.: 'Round about
Dhaulagiri', 60 248
'Annapurna 11,1960',65143
'Dhaula Himal', 68 188
'Transport and Sherpas on Mount
Everest, 1963',68237
'With the Royal Air Force on
Dhaulagiri IV', 71 75
notes: Fanny, 68138
Dhaula Himal, 73 II3
Roberts, W. M.: obit., 59 339
Robertson, Rev James: biographical
note, 70 203
Robson, Mt:
ascs.: 67 359
by N face, 69 298
1st winter, 71 318
Roc, Aig. du: tr., 63 246
Rocallosa, Cima: asc., 69 49
Roch,
A.: 'The Swiss Everest expedition-Spring
1952', 59 I
'Dhaulagiri, 1953',59302
'An approach to the mechanism of
avalanche release', 70 57
'How to estimate avalanche danger',
7287
his book: Everest, I952, 5991
Rocky Mountains: expedition to, 65 237
ascs. in Northern, 67 359
ascs. in Canadian, 68 321, 73 274
Rogers, N. A. J.: 'Cordee Mariee', 70 297
Roger-Smith, H. R.: obit., 61199
Rohtang La: cr., 59 289, 7075
Roiss, H.: 'The first ascent of
Haramosh', 64 12
death, 64 244, 65 14
Rolleston, L. W.: obit., 68175
port., 68 I II
Rolleston, Mt: accident, 71 319
asc., 72 253
ill., 72 258
Rolwaling: ill., peaks climbed from, 59
418-19
Roncagli: ill., 68 232-3
Rondoy: 1st asc., 68 303, 69 II3
recce, 69 108
attempts, 69 IIO, III
accident, 69 II 3
ill.,69 IIO
Rooke, N.: obit., 59452
S
Roper, S.: his book: A Climber's Guide
to the Yosemite Valley, 70 172
Rosa, Mte:
Dufourspitze:
1st ase., 60 377
Centenary celebration, 60 397
ski asc., 61 84
by Marinelli Couloir, 62 176
1st winter ase. by E face, 70 326
Nordend:
Santa Caterinagrat: ase., 59 24, 68
1st ase., 60169
1st winter ase., 72 322
by Brioschi route on Maeugnaga
face, 59 203
Punta Giordani:
Gugliermina's
new route on S face,
59343,60172
Punta Gnifetti:
mass ase., 66 159
Signalkuppe:
1st British ase. by NE face, 64 269
ill., Cresta di Santa Caterina, 59 69
with Lyskamm & Jumeaux from
Rimpfisehhorn,
62 35
from Strahlhorn, 65 35
Roscoe, D. T.: his book: Llanberis
North, ~ 313
Roseg, Piz: early attempts & 1st ase.,
6344-5
by NE face, 68 125
winter ase. by, 64 247
Roseg, Porta da: 1st attempt on, 60 302
Ross, D. B.: obit., 67 392
Ross, K. F.: 'Mount Logan (East Peak)',
6454
Rosso, Cima di: ase., 64 262
Rosso, Mte: by N ridge, 64 262
Rothery, S.: note: climbs in Ireland,
67178
Rothorn, Brienzer: cable railway
proposed, 65 234
Rothorn, Zinal: by E face direct, 61 542
Rototaev, P.: 'Soviet mountaineering
in 1966',73120
Royal family, the British: and
mountaineering,
59 278, 458
Ruapehu, Mt: ase., 60 108
Rubenson, C. W.: obit., 66 184
Rudolf, Mt: by W wall, 61 381
Rumbold, T. A.: note: T. G. Longstaff,
70133
Rumea Peaks (Andes): ases., 68 222
Rundall, J. W.: obit., 66183
Runge, J. C. H.: obit. & port., 61 533
Ruskin, J.: his diaries reviewed, 61 560,
63151
4
43
Russell, Count Henry: & the Vignemale,
6580
port., 65 81
Russell, Mt (Alaska): attempt, 67 357
1st asc., 68 320
attempt by E ridge, 72 77
ill., 72 63
Russia: mountaineering
in, 59 459,
61310,62107,63203,69293,
73120
7000 m peaks of, 73 259
Ruttledge, H.: obit., 67 393
Ruwenzori:
Alexandra Peak: W face by via
direttissima, 65
22 I
Elizabeth Peak: 1st asc., 59 268
Great Tooth: 1st ase., 61 384
Margherita:
1st asc. by W face, 61 390
Philip Peak: 1st ase., 59416
Pte Albert: NE ridge, ase., 61 384
named Arete de Grunne, 65 237
historical notes, 59 407
expeditions, 1937-54,59410
further notes on, 601°5, 178
accident, 61 214
nomenclature, 61 214
various ascs., 60 375, 61 383, 390,
551,64255,65243,68326,69193,
73276
new map of, 64 60, 256, 67 363
heights in, 65 98
guide book to, 67 347,364
expedition to Emin & Gessi area, 69
191
depth of lac de la Lune, ~ 197
problems in, 69 302
ill. :
Stanley Group from Congo side,
59272
N portion of, 60106
panorama from Ridge Camp, 59274
Margherita Peak from NNE, 59 408
Mt Baker from Stuhlmann Pass,
59408
from above Scott Elliott Pass,
59409
Alexandra: W face, 65 221
E side of Speke from Gessi, 69 196-7
panorama of Mt Gessi from Mt
Emin, 69 196-7
Rwot (Uganda): ase., 68 327, 69 231
ill., 69 228-9, 229
Ryan, M. F.: obit., 59 80
Sacsarayoe: attempts,
1st asc., ~ 59
ill., ~ 46--'7
69 45, 52
44
S
Sad Istragh (Hindu Kush): 1st asc.,
72 123
Saglio, S.: his book: Da Rifugio a
Rijugio: Alpi Retiche Meridionali,
60196
Sahara: expedition to, 63131
St Bernard Pass, Great: opening of
road tunnel, 66 380
St Elias, Mt: attempt, 69 298, 72 332
ascs., 70 33 I
4th asc. & 1st by NW ridge, 71316
ill., 64 55
St George Peak (Bhutan): 1St asc., 70
113
St Gotthard tunnel: 75th anniversary
of, 62 179
Saipal: 1st asc., 69 125
Salbitschijen:
S ridge: note on, 59 87
asc. by, 59208
Saicantay: history & 1st asc., 59 309
maps of, 59 496
2nd asc., 61 391
1st asc. by NE ridge, 71 138
ill., 59 310, 311
Salmon, F. J.: 'From a diary of 1907',
66310
note: the tale of an umbrella, 65 95
Saltoro: expedition to, 1960, 66 147
Sahoro Kangri: 1st asc., 68 122,6973
iII., from ridge at head of Lolofond
gl.,63 188
showing route of 1st asc., 69 77
from Advanced Base Camp, 69 78
Sanford, Mt: 1st asc. by S ridge, 73 271
Sanseverino, J. : note:
centenaries in 1954,59344
1955,60173
1956,61 391
Sans Nom, Aig.: by NW spur, 69 132
Sans Nom, Pic (Chamonix): 1st asc. by
NW face, 73 14
ill., 73 14-15
Sans Nom, Pic (Dauphine): by NW
couloir, 60 375
monograph on, 61 87
1st asc. by NW face, 72 318
ill. , 61 88-9
Santa Cruz, Nevado: 2nd asc., 65 221
ill., 72 30-1
Santa Marta range (Colombia): expedition
to, 61550
ascs. in, 63 133
peaks & glaciers, 63 209
valleys, 63 21 I
history of mountaineering in, 63 212
bibliography, 63 215
Santi, M.: port., 59 299
San Valentin, Mt: 1st asc., 59432
iII., 59 432
Saraghrar: attempts, 64 II6, 72328
accident,64 II6
1st asc., 65 9°,151
ill., 65 152, 153
Sara Umga La: cr., 70 3II
asc. to, 71 244
Sarmiento, Mt: 1st asc., 61390
Sarpy, A. U.: obit., 61 371
Saser Kangri: attempt, 61 396
Sassera, Bochetta di: 1st cr., 69 281
Sasso d'Italia, Gran: asc., 69 34
Sasso Moro: 1st asc. by SE face, 69 281
Sat Dag Range (Turkey): ascs. in, 71
3°4,72117
iII., summits of, 71 158
virgin summit climbed in 1966,
72
II 0-1 I
Saussois: climbs in, 70 253
Sawatch Range: iII., 7130-1
Sayre, W. W.: his book: Four Against
Everest, 70 345
Scalone, 10: by N ridge & tr., 64 262
Scarr, J.: her book: Four Miles High,
72171
Sceptre (Karakoram): asc., 67 8 I
Schallihorn: 1st asc. from the SchaIIijoch, 61 207
Schell, H.: 'Akher Chioh (7020 m)',
72225
Schermberg: 1st winter asc. by N face,
70286
Schjelderup, F.: obit. & port., 60 409
Schmid, Franz & Toni: port., 7°14-15
Schomberg, R. C. F.: obit., 63 132
Schreckhorn: 2nd asc., 59 53
iII., 61 336-7
Schuster, Lord: obit. & port., 61 371
Schwarzsee hotel: destroyed by fire,
63 129
SchweizerIand: ill., 72 210-II
Sciora di Fuori: asc., 66156
Scioretta, Colle delia: 1st recorded cr.,
69280
Scotes, Pizzo di: 1st asc. by E face,
69280
Scotland: North-west Highlands of,
65 191
Lochnagar & the Cairngorms, 65 189
post-war climbing in, 65 186
Ben Nevis, 65191
annual race on, 68 136
Scottish Mountaineering Club: book:
Climbers' Guide to the Cuillin of Skye,
63144
S
Scramblers Peak (Hindu Kush):
727°
Season: an Alpine, 1958,64119
Seattle, Mt: ase., 72 331
Seaver, G.: his book: Francis
asc.,
Younghusband: Explorer and Mystic,
S9221
Sebastopol, Mt (N.Z.): asc., 72 256
Sedgwick, H. J.: obit. & port., 63 114
Sefton, Mt: ascs., 7°334
Seigne, Col de la: cr., 66 80
Seiler, F.: obit., 72 191
Selkirks: ascs. in, 71 318
Sella, Piz: asc., 63 46
Serio, Passo del: cr., 66155,386
Seylaz, L.: death, 69 135
Shachaur (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., 70 120
ill., 71212-13
Sharp, F. C.: obit., 72 357
Sharpe, P. H.: obit., 61 534
Sharpe, W. S.: obit. & port., 61 376
Shchurovsky, Pik: by SE ridge, 64 118
by NE face, 67 152
Shebbeare, E. 0.: obit., 69 327
Sheila Peaks (Himalaya): ascs., 70123
Shekuntla Tibba (Kulu): 1st asc., 72 210
Sherpas: awarded 'Tiger' badge, 60 176
Sherriff, G.: obit., 73 141
Shidei, T.: 'The ascent of Sahoro
Kangri', 69 73
Shield, the (Patagonia): 1st asc., 73154
Shih Chan-Chun:
'The second ascent
of Minya Konka', 63 194
'Ascent of Muztagh Ata', 6478
'The conquest of Mount Everest by
the Chinese mountaineering team',
66 28
Shikar Beh: 1st asc., 61 52
Shilla: height, 613°3,3°9,
6S 274,
66 389
Shimilik (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., 73 207
Shingeik Zom (Hindu Kush): 1st asc.,
713°3,7285
ill., 72 86
Shingo La:
cr., 64 89
ill., & neighbouring peaks, 64 87
Shipki Pass: ill., 66 341
Shiprock (U.S.A.): by new route, 71318
Shipton, E. E.: 'The Imperial College
Karakoram expedition, 1957', 63 185
'Two visits to the Andes of Southern
Patagonia', 6S 158
'A journey over the Patagonian icecap', 67 250
'The Darwin Range: Tierra del
Fuego', 67 259
45
Shipton, E. E.:
'Further travels in Patagonia and
Tierra del Fuego', 68 230
'Crossing the North Patagonian
ice-cap', 69 183
'Some reflections on modern
climbing', 72 15
'A visit to Alaska', 72 76
his books: The Mount Everest
Reconnaissance Expedition,
I95I, S991
Land of Tempest: Travels in
Patagonia, I958-I96z, 68 331
Mountain Conquest, 71 329
Shisha Pangma:
1st asc., 69 211
route of, 70138
ill., 69 212
Shkara:
ascs.: 3rd by N buttress, 63 247
4th, 64259
by S face, 64 246
ill., NNE face, 72 62
W summit & shoulder of W ridge,
7262-3
Shkhelda: tr., 67 54
3rd W peak by N face buttress, 67 152
ill.,6756
ridge, from W Shkhelda, 67 62
Shoe Peak: (see Zapato, Nevado)
Sho Ho Dara (Swat): cr., 70207,211
Sialouze, Aig. de: tr., 60 373
Sici (Baffin Island): asc., 67 103
Side, A. D. B.: 'Towards Kangchenjunga', 60 83
obit., 66 420
Siegen, J.: his book: The Lotschental: a
Guidefor Tourists, 66175
Sihuaillusa, Nevado: ase., 68 221
Silvretta Group: ases. & passages in,
66 155
Silberhorn (N.Z.): attempt, 72 259
Silber horn: 1st ase. by S ridge, S9 54
Silbersattel: 1st winter ase. from E,
60171
Sim, J. A.: obit. & port., 72 358
Simien Range (Ethiopia): description of,
61344
Simler, Josias: advice to travellers, 62 5
Simler, R. T.: port., 68128
Simplon Pass: proposed road tunnel
under, 67 158
Simpson, M.: her book: White Horizons,
72346
Singh, G.: 'Three months in Upper
Garhwal and adjacent Tibet',
60257
Singh, G.:
'Indian Mount Everest expedition,
1960',66 IS
his book: The Lure of Everest, 67190
Singing Mountain, the: 72326
Singkar: see Trident
Sirijuani (Andes): asc., 70 240
Sisne Himal: asc. of peak in, 67 128
Sissone, Mte: asc., 64 262
Siula Chico: 1st asc., 72147
Siula, Nevado: 1st asc., by E face, 69 126
Skagastolstind, Store:
reminiscences of, 62 151
ill., 62156
Ski Club of Great Britain: book:
Handbook on Ski-Touring and Glacier
Ski-ing, 60 196
Ski-mountaineering: photographic
souvenirs of, 59 201
a defence of, 73 218
Skoczylas, A.: his book: Stefano, We
Shall Come Tomorrow, 67 373
Skrede, W.: his book: Across the Roof
of the World, 59479
Sky-writing: menace of, 65 142
Skye: A. C. members in, 60 382
opening of Coruisk hut, 64 246
Slaggard, Mt: 1st asc., 65251
Sleeping-bags: keeping warm in, 72 313
Slesse, Mt (Canada): by N face, 69 298
Slesser, M.: 'Peru, 1964',70240
'In defence of ski-ing', 73 218
his books: Red Peak, 69161
The Andes are Prickly, 71 332
Slings: note on nylon, 61 398
Slingsby, F. H.: obit., 68 357
Sloman, H. N. P.: obit., 70 373
Smeds, H.: 'The Batu Mountains of the
Bale Plateau, Ethiopia', 64 217
Smillie Peak (S Georgia): ill., 61 469
Smith, D. A.: obit., 66187
Smith, G. A.: his book: An Introduction
to Mountaineering, 72 350
Smith, G. O. H.: obit., 67 203
Smith, J. A.: her book: Mountaineering,
60431
Smith K. C.: 'The Centenary Dinner',
6361
obit., 66 188
Smith, R.: death, 67 342
Smith-Barry, T. G. B. F.: obit., 70374
port., 70 378
Smyth, A. J. M.: 'The R.A.F.
Mountaineering Association expedition to Lahoul', 61 45
'The Northern approaches of
Kinabalu', 63 27
Smyth, A. J. M.:
'The Royal Air Force Karakoram
expedition, 1961',6773
Smythe, A. G.: 'Around Mont Blanc
in four days', 66 78
'The East face of the Grand
Capucin', 6790
'The Moose's Tooth', 68 262
his book: (with J. Cleare) Rock
Climbers in Action in Snowdonia,
71335
Smythe, F. S.: memorial at Zermatt,
59216
& Graham Brown, 72 135
port., 62 84-5
Snow Dome: attempt, 61 41
Snow Lake: ill., 64176
Snow Lake Peak: attempt, 64 177
Snowpatch Spire (Bugaboos): asc., 65 22
1st asc. by S face, 72 333
ill., 65 22-3
Sofridjoo (Caucasus): asc., 63 II7
Solang Weisshom: see Hanuman Tibba
Solari, F.: 'An equipment centenary',
69241
note: fixed-rope failures, 73 262
Solo, Cerro (Chile): 2nd asc., 67170
Somervell, T. H.: valedictory address,
70 I
note: centenary celebrations, tic) 136
Sondre Trolltind: by N face direct,
73 I, 101
by N face & E ridge, 73 103
ill., 73 103
Soral Peaks: East: asc., 65 88,177
West: asc., 65 178
ill., E Peak, 65180-1
Soray, Pic: 1st asc., 61 391
South America: see P 56 below
South American Indian: as a pioneer
Alpinist, 73 81
South Georgia: survey, 1955-6,61465
Shackleton's route re-traced, 70 327
South Greenland notes: 68 307
Spaaman (South Georgia): 1st asc., 61 466
Spain: see P 54 below
Spectorsky, A. G.: his book: (with
F. Iselin) Invitation to Ski-ing, 59 93
Spiti: expeditions to, 61 296, 458
see also p. 60 below
Spitsbergen: expedition to, 1960,66167
Spranger, J. A.: obit., 73 299
Sri Kailas: 2nd asc., 69 125
Staghom, Mt (Alaska): asc., 62127
Stalin, Mt: 1st asc., 63 203
1st British asc., 67 348
ill., 63 204
T
Stalin, Mt (Wokkpash): 1st asc., 66 49
Stark, E.: her book: (with M. Jackson)
Tents in the Clouds, 61 423
Starker, G.: 'The South wall of the
Dachstein in winter', 66 284
Staunings Alps (Greenland):
cr. of N
& Central, 66 250
1st exploration of S, 66 254
Italian expedition to, 69 128, 70 126
Imperial College expedition to, 69
254
location of, 72 141
ill., 66 254-5,260-1,
6C)79,245
Stead, F. B.: obit., 60 160
Steel, G. A.: obit., 69 175
Steele, P. R: 'To Hiunchuli Patan',
68198
'Perambulators
in the land of the
Thunder Dragon', 72 264
Stefan, W.: 'Distaghil Sar', 66 I
Steiner, Franz: death, 70 324
Stembridge, H. L.: 'A journey through
the Cordillera Blanca of Peru', 69 88
Stephen, L.: port., 62134
Stephenson, R M. : note on, 60 379
Steven, C.: his book: The Island Hills,
61229
Stevenson, E. J.: note on, 60 379
Stevenson, V. N.: his book: Cornwall,
vol. II, 71 336
Stewart, L. R: 'The ascent of Cayesh
and attempt on the virgin East ridge
of Huascaran', 66 199
Stikine Group (Alaska): ascs. in, 70 332
Stillingfleet, B.: memorial tablet to,
63125
Stockalper Chliteau: restoration of,
65233
Stocken, C. M.: 'Ski touring in the
Valais', 61 80
death, 72221
Stone, J. K.: & the Alps, 72 273,327
port., 72 274
Stornade, Cima delle: 1st winter asc.,
73254
Storr, A. E.: obit., 60 161
Storsteinfjell massif (Norway): climbs
in, 70 318
Stortind: attempt, 60 278
Stoves: for cooking, 68 135
Streather, H. R. A.: 'K 2: the third
American Karakoram expedition,
1953',59391
'Army Mountaineering
Association
expedition, 1959',6537
Stretchers, mountain rescue: used in
Britain, 73 223
Strutt,
47
E. L.: as editor of the Alpine
Journal, 62 88
Bonacossa's memories of, 70 219
Struve, K. C. P.: obit., 66 378
Studer, G.: mountaineering
career,
68 210
Studerhorn:
3rd asc. by N face, 65 222
Styles, S.:
his books: Mountains of the Midnight
Sun, 59481
Introduction to Mountaineering,
60429
Rock and Rope, 72175
The Arrow Book of Climbing, 72176
Mallory of Everest, 72350
The Climber's Bedside Book, 73284
Su Alto, Cima: NW face, 8th & 9th
ascs., 61 541
Sugar Loaf (Himalaya): asc., 65 43
Sugartop, Mt (South Georgia): 1st asc.,
70314
Sugden, F. K.: obit, 72 360
Sukarno, Mt (New Guinea): asc., 69 291
Sundt, E.: 'Reminiscences of Store
Skagastolstind',62
151
Supersaxo, Ambros: death, 59459
Sutlej : sources of the, 60 268
Sutton, G.:
his books: (with G. W. Young &
C. W. F. Noyce) Snowdon
Biography, 61 561
(with C. W. F. Noyce) Samson: the
Life and Writings of Menlove
Edwards, 65 253
(with E. Byne) High Peak, 72 167
Swanage: climbs on the cliffs of, 66 299
Swargarohini (Himalaya): attempt,
69206
Swat Kohistan: two journeys in, 67 42
asc. of unnamed peak in, 6745
expedition to, 68 251
climbs in, 70265
ill., Confusion & Batin Peaks from S,
70212-13
Swift, Bob: port., 61 456
Swiss Everest expedition members: ill.,
61244
Swiss pioneers: achievements in the
Alps, 68 205
1st ascs. made by, 68 210
Swiss prints: notes on, 68 212
Symonds, H. H.: death, 64 128
TABLE MOUNTAIN: climbs on, 6C)103
Tacul, Aig. du: by SE face, 63119
Tacul, Pyramide du: 1st asc. by NE
face, 64 270
Tadaft (Atlas): asc., 67 68
ill., 67 70
Tadat (Atlas): ascs., 67 67
Tairona Peak (Colombia): by W ridge,
62 179
Tairraz, Jean: biographical note, 70204
Tairraz, P.: his book: (with R.
Frison-Roche) Mont Blanc aux Sept
Valtees,65
115
Takht-i-Suleiman:
asc., 61 64, 70 126
Talbot, J. 0.: 'The North-east pillar of
the Wetterhorn', 69 119
his books: (with R. G. Collomb)
Bernina Alps, 73 285
Engelh6rner and Salbitschijen, 73 288
Talisker (Coast Range): asc., 71 300
Tallantire, P.:
his book: Felix Austria (vol. 1),70352
vols. II & IV, 72 175
vol. III, 73 285
Talung Peak: 1st asc., 69 289
Tangley, Lord: see Herbert, E. S.
Tambu: asc. & tr., 6150
Tam Sur (Peru): 1st asc., 72146
Taparacu (Andes): 1st asc., 69 219
Tapugiri: asc., 61283
Tara Pahar: asc., 61284
ill., 61 292
Tiischhorn: by Teufelsgrat, 59 26
S face, 5th asc., 59461
attempt, 63 92
ilL, S face, 62 68-9
Tasman, Mt:
ill.: from top of the rocks on Mt
Cook, 72 258-9
from Pioneer hut, 72 258-9
Tatra: ascs. in, 68 26,7137,41
ill., 68 30-1, 71 30-1
see also p 54 below
Tatum (Alaska): asc., 62 126
Taugwalder (Sohn), Peter: Fiihrerbuch
of, 59436
& Whymper, 65 94
port., 59440,441,61488-9
Taugwalder (Vater), Peter: & Whymper,
6594
his climbing career, 70 26
port., 59 440
Taugwalder, Rudolf: death, 60 170
Taulliraju: 1st asc., 61 543
iII., 60 72-3
Taurus mountains: expeditions to,
70127
Taweche: attempts, 69 25, 28
ilL, 69 30
Taylor, C.: 'Climbs on limestone in the
Alps', 70 246
Taylor, P.: his book: Coopers Creek to
Langtang II, 70 350
Tazarhart Wall:
ill., from Lepiney hut, 71 31
N face, 71 260-1
Tchernine, 0.: her book: The
Abominable Snowman and Company,
66410
Techado Negro (Chile): 1st asc., 67 170
Technique: for beginners, 59 498
Tejada-Flores, L.: 'Games climbers
play', 73 46
Temperatures:
low, 63 260
Temple, Mt (Rockies): by new route on
N. face, 72332
Temple, P.: 'Mountains of the White
Arrow', 68 78
his books: Nawok!, 68 157
The Sea and the Snow, 72 176
Tent Peak (Annapurna group): 1st asc.,
70217,71 153
2nd asc., 71 89 (f.n.), 97
Tent Peak (Coast Range): asc., 71 299
Tenzing: audience of the Pope, 63 213
Terim Shah gl.: explored, 63 190
Ternicod, G.: his book: Recueil de
Pages Valdotaines,71 179
Terray, L.:
his books: Conquistadors of the Useless,
69158
(with L. Devies) Joies de la
Montagne, 70 346
(with J. Franco) Bataille pour le
Jannu, 71 165
(with J. Franco) At Grips with
Jannu, 72 176
death, 71 145
Terror, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc., 64 132
Tesi Lapcha: cr., 59 14,15,416
ill., 59 420
Tetnuld: 2nd asc. by N face, 72 324
Teton range: ascs. in, 68321,71318
tr. of main chain, 70 333
Tc!zenas du Montcel, R.: his book: Ce
Monde qui n'est pas le notre, 70 340
Thamserku: 1st asc., 7090
ilL, & Kangtega from NW, 7094
from W, 7094-5
Thorn, John:
his mountaineering career, 65 199
correction re, 66 161
Thomas, E.: obit., 66 190
Thomas, M. B.: 'The Royal Naval
East Greenland expedition, 1966',
7229,212
Thompson, D. E.: her book: Climbing
with Joseph Georges, 68145
T
Thorington, J. Monroe: 'Martin Barry,
Quaker microscopist', 59 19
'Edmund John Clark, M.D.', 59 264
'Erasmus Galton and Mont Blanc',
61102
'As it was in the beginning', 624
'Bishop Salm's expeditions to the
Gross Glockner', 69 244
'James Kent Stone and the Alps',
72273
notes: William Windham's 'ice-axe',
60380
J. A. Deluc, 63125
requiescat, 64238
Archduke John of Austria, 65 230
Italian Alps, 1962, 68 132
Edmund John Clark, 68 299
his book: A Climber's Guide to the
Rocky Mountains of Canada, 71 338
Thorington, Mt: location of, 72 325
Thornycroft, 0.: obit., 61535
Tibesti Mountains: ascs. in, 69 268,
70126
Tibet: visit to Western, 60 178, 263
Wakefield's journey to, 1929, 66 118,
325
Tichu gl.: ill., panorama from head of,
6851
Tichy, H.: 'Cho Oyu, 1954',60239
Tiefenmattenjoch:
attempt, 63 92
Tieroko (Tibesti Mountains): note on,
69 268
Tierra del Fuego: see P 57 below
Tila Ka Lahr: ill., 61 50
Tilman, H. W.: 'Himalayan apery',
60296
'Crossing the Patagonian ice-cap',
61271
'Mountains of the Crozet Islands',
66 52
and Mischief, 72 144
his books: Nepal Himalaya, 59 92
'Mischief' in Patagonia, 63 140
'Mischief' among the Penguins, 67 187
Timesguida n Ouanoukrim (Atlas): asc.,
6768
Tinguiririco: asc., 65 57
Tinzenhorn:
1st asc., 6350
Tipping, C. J.: obit., 69 328
Tiquimani (Bolivia): 1st asc., 68 3I 5
Tirich Gol: 1st tr. from, to Lower
Gazikistan gl., 73 90
Tirich Mir: accident, 67 352
1st asc. of E Peak, 70122
2nd asc. of highest peak, 73 250
3rd asc., 73 89
1st complete circuit of massif, 73 90
49
TirichMir:
notes on, 73 IIO, 262
ill.,66244
Tirich Nord: 1st asc., 71 65
ill., & Tirich Mir, 71 62
showing N spur & camp sites,
7162-3
Tirich West I: 1st asc., 73 250
Tirich West IV: 1st asc., 73 89
Tobin, H. W.: obit., 61536
Tococcapac: asc., 66 151
Tolam Bau gl.: ascs. from, 61 56
ill., 61 57, 59
Tomlinson, G. J. F.: obit., 68130
Torbet, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 70 333
Toro, El (Venezuela): asc., 67 285
Torre, Cerro: attempts, 63 259, 73 94,
186
1st asc., 64 243
ill., group, 73 181
SE ridge, 73 196-7
Tottan Range (Antarctica): attempt on
highest summit, 67 347
Toubkal (Atlas): ascs., 67 67, 69
ill., 67 71
Tour centenary, a: 68 134
Tour, Col du: cr., 61 80
Tour Ronde: by N face, 60 375, 66 152
Tour Verte: by new route, 63 II9
Tournelon Blanc: 1st asc. by E face,
73253
Towitz Peak (Karakoram): asc., 63188
Travers-Jackson,
G. F.: obit., 69 328
Travis, G. L.: obit., 64 294
Traynard, P. & C.: their book: Alpes
et Neige. IOI Sommets a Ski, 71 176
Trench B. F.: obit., 73 137
Trevelyan, G. M.: obit., 67 399
Trident, the (Singkar): 2nd asc., 61 57
Trident Peak (Kulti gl.): ill., 61 48
Trieste, Torre: by W ridge, 68 226
Trifthorn: 1st asc., 61 348
Triglav: a veteran's asc., 64 132
Triolet, Aig. de: by N face, 60 373,
61386,66153
1st winter & 1st solo asc. of N face,
71305
Triolet, Breche de: 1st asc. by N face,
65222
Triplex (Yukon): ill., 73 IS
Tristan da Cunha: asc. of peak on, 61391
Trisul: ill., 62135
Trisul II & III: 1st ascs., 65 246
Trivor: 1st asc., 66 9
ill., 66 14
Trollryggen:
from Romsdal, 64 183
50
T
Trollryggen:
2nd asc., 65 222
1St asc. by N wall, 71 98, 139
ilL, & Trolltindene (1931 & 1958
routes), 64 184
N wall, 71 78-9
Trolltind Ridge: ilL, E wall with Troll·
tind wall & N face of Sondre
Trolltind (routes), 73 14
Trolltind Wall: by British route, 73103
by French direct route, 73 103
Tronco, EI (Chile): 1st asc., 65 241
ill., 65 242
Triibswetter,
I: 'The Garmisch
Partenkirchen
Hindu Kush expedition, 1963',69249
'Shingeik Zorn: the Smoking
Mountain', 72 85
Truffaut, R.: his book: From Kenya to
Kilimanjaro,63147
Tsacra Grande: 1St complete asc.,
70124
Tsumi La: cr., 70 IIO
Tucci, G.: his book: Nepal: the
Discovery of the Malla, 67 369
Tucker, J. : his book: Kangchenjunga,
61219
Tuckett, F. F.: port., 6217
Tunnels: note on some Alpine, 61 548
Turkey: ascs. in massif S of Coruh
river, 73 253
Turl, Mt (Baffin Island): 1St asc., 67102
Turnbull, H. W.: obit., 66 422
Turpin Peak (Himalaya): 1St asc., 70
123
Twins:
ascs.: (Lahoul), 61 49, 51
(Spiti), 61 459
Tyndall, J.: his grave restored, 72 322
Tyson, J. B.: 'Exploring the Api and
Nampa group, Western Nepal',
59421
'Three months in West Nepal', 67120
UDREN ZOM (Hindu Kush): 1St & 2nd
ascs., 70 120
Uganda: ascs. in, 68326
U.I.A.A.: meeting, 1962, 68 132
election of new President, 70 135
meeting in London, 70 139
1966 assembly, 72 138
1967 assembly, 73 II6
U.I.A.G.M.:
formation of, 71 147
UlIa-Kara- Tau: by left part of N face,
67152
UlIa- Tau-Chana:
by left-hand buttress
of N face, 67 152
Ullman, J. R.:
his books: Man of Everest, 60 426
Banner in the Sky, 61 230
The Age of Mountaineering, 61 426
Americans on Everest, 71 163
Ulta, Nevado: 1St asc., 67166
Umbrella: the tale of an, 65 95
Umbu Gyabjen: asc., 59 IIO, 138
Underhill, M.: her book: Give me the
Hills, 61 558
Underwood, E. A.: 'The Gran Sasso
d'ltalia', 69 34
United Kingdom: (see British Isles
notes)
University Peak (Alaska): 1St asc., 61 201
Unsworth, W.:
his books: Matterhorn Man, 71 182
Tiger in the Snow, 72 350
Because it is There, 73 280
Upernivik, Horns of: ilL, N face,
7362-3
Upernivik Island: expedition to, 73 68
mountaineering
history, 73 68
ascs. in, 73 72, 79
Uraccapac: ascs., 66151
Urco, Pta (Andes): asc., 70 242
Urgend (Hindu Kush): 1St asc., 69124
Uruashraju (Peru): 1St asc., 72146
Ushba: S Peak: 1St asc. by NW face,
64246
ilL, 61324
from above Betsho, 62 59
from W Shkhelda, 67 62-3
Uyeo, S.: 'The ascent of Annapurna
South Peak (Ganesh)', 70 213
VAG, BOCCHETTADEL: 1St asc. from N,
69 280
Valais: human nature in the, 60 135
ascs. in, 1962,67340
Valdez gl.: new ascs. from, 65 251
Valette, Pta: by N face, 63121
Valgrande, Passo di: cr., 67 346
Vallina, Bocca delia: 1st cr., 61206
Vallina, Dosson delia: 1St asc., 61 205
Vancouver, Mt: 1St asc. of Border
Summit, 73 22
ill., 73 22
Vandeleur, C. R. P.:
note: Himalayan heights and earthquakes, 59 88
Lord Conway and IIlimani, 60172
obit., 69 176
Van der Stratten, MIle: death, 65 90
Vanis, E.: 'The Bezingi Wall', 72 57
'Austrian expedition to the Pamirs,
1967' 73 25
W
Vanoise, Aig. de la: by N face, 63 120
Vatnajokull: tr., 65 98
Venezia, Torre: by Tissi route, 67 34,
68226
ascs., 70 300
Venezuela: map of the Andes of, 69 122
Venezue an notes: 68 317
Verghese, B. G.: his book: Himalayan
Adventure, 68 157
Veronica: 1st asc., 6I 391
Veronica de Urubamba, Cordillera:
ill., 70 252-3
Verte, Aig.: by Whymper Couloir, 59 324
by Sans Nom arete, 59 342
1st asc. from Charpoua g\., 60125
by couloir Couturier, 60 373, 6I 203,
541,64200,69132
early attempts, 6I 389
accident, 69 290
1st winter asc. by Contamine route,
70 327
Vertigo, E1 (Venezuela): asc., 67 284, 337
Victory Peak (Tien Shan): 1st asc. &
tr., 64 74
ill., 64 75
Vidinkot and Shosht (Hindu Kush):
description of mountain area between,
73 58
Viedma, Vulean (Patagonia): description
of,65 167
Vignemale: by N face, 6I 543
& Count Henry Russell, 65 80
Anne Lister's asc., 73 199
Vileabamba, Cordillera de: cartography,
59 307
expedition to, 6941
Vilcanota, Cordillera: ascs. in, 6438,
72316
ill., 64 38-9
Viney, R. M.: 'The Tronchey arete of
the Grandes Jorasses', 59 323
obit. & port., 6I 377
Vinson Massif (Antarctica): 1st asc.,
72128
Viotto, S.: death, 69 291
Visser, P. C.: obit., 60 412
Vodka: & mountaineering, 65 237
Voillat, A.: obit., 65 94
von Allmen, Hilti: death, 7I 310
von Ficker, H.: death, 63 257
von Leyden, V.: obit., 69 177
von Humboldt, A.: centenary of his
death, 64 241
Vonnegut, B.: note: electrical
observations from mountains, 63 259
von Tscharner, H. F.: 'Random thoughts
on the Matterhorn', 7038
5
• Spelled incorrectly
51
Voroshilov, Mt (Pamir): 1st asc., 65 89
Vuibe: unfrequented route on the, 59
455
WAGER,L. R.: 'Mount Everest: the
Chinese photograph', 68 49
obit. & port., 7I 349
Wainwright, A."': his book: A Pictorial
Guide to the Lakeland Fells, 68 155
Wakefield, E. B.: 'A journey to Western
Tibet, 1929',66 u8, 325
Waldis, A.: his book: Switzerland: the
Traveller's Illustrated Guide, 7I 184
Walker, C. W.: obit., 69 329
Walker, H.: port., 62 17
Walker, J. 0.: obit., 73 138
Wall, D.: 'The ascent of Rondoy', 69 106
his book: Rondoy, 70 344
Wallis, R. H.: 'The Royal Naval East
Greenland expedition, 1966',
7229, 212
South Greenland notes, 68 307
Walmsley, J.: 'Masherbrum, 1957',
63 169
'Nuptse', 66 209
Walsh, Mt (Yukon): asc., 73 21
Ward, M. P.: 'Bugaboo', 6518
'Himalayan scientific expedition,
H}60-61', 66343
'The descent from Makalu, 1961, and
some medical aspects of high
altitude climbing', 68 II
'Bhutan Himal', 70 106
'Bhutan Himal: some further
observations', 7I 281
notes: treatment of frost-bite, 7I 309
the highest mountain in Bhutan,
72325
his book: The Mountaineer's
Companion, 72 160
Warren, N. S. S.: obit., 72 361
Wathen, R. J.: poem: The waters and
the wild, 66 134
Watson, H. D. D.: 'Imperial College
East Greenland expedition, 1963',
69253
Watson, H. M. D.: death, 69 169
Watson, W. F.: 'A solo traverse of the
Matterhorn, 1961',6785
e>bit.,70 188
Watzmann: accident, & early ascs.,
66 385
Weather & snow conditions: reports on
Alpine, 63 263
Webster, A.: 'A Gervasutti route: the
South face of the Pointe Gugliermina', 73 53
as Wainewright
in 68155
52
W
Wedderburn,
E. A. M.: his book:
Alpine Climbing on Foot and with Ski,
60194
Wedderburn,
J.: 'The 1965 Scottish
Hindu Kush expedition', 7r. 58
Wedderburn,
T. M.: obit., 73 300
Wedding Cake (Greenland):
1st asc.,
73238
Weir,T.:
his books: Camps and Climbs in Arctic
Norway, 59 356
East of Katmandu, 6r. 219
Weisshorn:
Schalligrat (SW ridge): asc. by, 59 70
early descs., 59 217
attempt, 66 70
tr., 66 86
by Schalligrat & E ridge, 67 223
ill., from Taschalp, 62 52-3
N ridge, W face, S face, E ridge,
6268-9
Weissmies: asc., 65 216
Wellenkuppe:
tr., 59 26
Wellhom: 1st asc., 59 56
Wellhom, Klein: by SE face, 70 130
ill., 70 15°-1
West, W. C.: obit. & port., 63 116
Western, A. E.: obit., 67 204
Westmacott, M. H.: 'Everest, 1953.
Narrative of the expedition', 59 107
'Invitation accepted', 6r. 435
'Arrigetch', 72 109
note: traditional methods of abseiling,
73108
West Maiden (Alaska): asc., 72 114
Westmorland,
H.: note: Major-General
W. W. Foster, 60 376
his book: Adventures in Climbing,
70172
Weston, W.: monument to memory of,
70322
Wetterhorn:
early ascs., 59179
1st asc. by NE Pillar, 69 119,133
ill., from shoulder of Gross
Fiescherhorn,
6r. 337
NE Pillar (route), 69 31
NE face, showing Etter/Reiss 1944
route, 72 290
Wetterhorn,
Scheidegg: by NW face,
60171
Wheeler, E. 0.: obit., 67 402
Whillans, D.: 'Aiguille Poincenot', 67 236
White Dome (Langtrang Himal): 1st
asc., 60 385
White Mountains (Crete): climbs in,
65208
White Sail: 2nd asc., 68 58
Whymper,
E.: & engravings
for
Scrambles, 59 344, 7r. 119
& the Taugwalders, 65 94
& Southend, 70135
a word for, 7r. 111,3°9
climbing career, 7r. 118
knowledge of French, 7r. 121
Lunn's article, 7r. 228
& the Royal Society, 7r. 308
port., 6r. 489, 62 17
Wibratte, L.: obit., 60 163
Wichmann Tower (Alaska): asc., 72113
Wignall, S.: his book: Prisoner in Red
Tibet, 63 151
Wigner, J. H.: obit., 59 449
Wilcox Peak (Canada): attempt, 59 35
Wilerhorn: 1st recorded asc. from NW,
73253
Wilhelmina, Mt: see Sukarno, Mt.
Wilkinson, D. P.: port., 59440
Wilkinson, J.: port., 5944°
Williams, C.: her book: Zermatt Saga,
70173
Williams, E. S.: note: physiological
expedition, 66 161
Williams, G.: death, 60 376
Wills, A.: port., 62 16
Wilson, J. G.: 'The Himalayan Schoolhouse expedition, 1963', 6g 23
'The Himalayan Schoolhouse expeditions', 70 226
Wilson, Maurice: his Mt Everest
attempt, 70 269
Wilson, R. C.: obit., 7r. 197
Wilson, W. K.: biographical note, 70204
Wind River Range: ascs. in, 68 321
Windham, William: his 'ice-axe', 60 380
Winkler, G.: remains found, 6r. 388
Winter ascs.: season of, 70 325, 7r. 143
Wokkpash: climbs in the mountains of,
6642
suggested names for mountains of,
67165
Wollaston, N.: 'Peaks of the Sissu Nala
basin, Lahul Himalaya', 60 62
his book: Handles of Chance, 6r. 573
Women's altitude record: 60 176, 64 258,
66 389
Wood, jr, Joseph: obit., 64106
Wood, Mt (Alaska): by new route, 65251
Wood-Johnson,
G.: obit., 6r. 545
Wordie, J. M.: obit., 67403
Wrangham, E. A.: 'The technique of
artificial climbing', 60 37
his book: (with J. Brailsford) Selected
Climbs in the Dauphine IIlps and
Vercors,7328S
Z
Wright, J. E. B.:
his books: Rock Climbing in Britain,
64145
(with W. H. Murray) The Craft
of Climbing, 70 172
Wright, Lord: obit., 69 330
Wyatt, C.: his book: The Call of the
Mountains, 59 361
Wybergh, C. H.: obit., 67 405
Wyttenwasser Pass: cr., 61 335
Y AGANCERRO: asc., 67 265
Yalung valley: expedition to, 1953,
59316
Yamazaki, Y.: 'Modern mountaineering
in Japan', 71 248
Yanacocha (Andes): attempt, 69 56
Yanamarey group (Peru): ascs. in,
72126
Yauyos, Cordillera: expedition to, 72 316
Yeames, J. L.: obit., 65 271
Year ofthe Alps: exhibition opened,
70136
Yerupaja:
2nd asc., 65 221
correction re, 66 426
attempts, 70 124, 144, 245, 71 138,
72125,284
ascs. of S Summit, 71 ISO
1st direct asc. by W face, 72 146
1st asc. by NW ridge, 73 252
various ascs., 73 252
1st asc. by a woman, 73 253
Yerupaja Chico: 2nd asc., 73 II8
Yerupaja Sur: 3rd asc., 72146
Yeso valley: ill., unnamed peak in,
65243
Yeti La: cr., 68 202
53
Yosemite valley: ascs. in, 68 321, 70 333
modern climbing in, 71219
Young, G. W.: 'Club and climbers,
1880-1900',6252
'An alpine aura', 63 I
note: Gabriel Lochmatter, 63126
his books: (with G. Sutton & C. W. F.
Noyce) Snowdon Biography,
61 561
The Influence of Mountains upon the
Development of Human Intelligence, 62 192
Lunn's paper on, 66 100, 67 210
obit. & port., 64 107
Young, S.: obit., 63 239
Yukon: Alpine centennial expedition,
1967, 73 18
see also p 55 below
ZANUTTI,A.: port., 59 299
Zapata, Nevada: 1st asc., 6442
Zaskar: women's expedition to, 64 84
Zemu La: ill., 62164
Zermatt: in the 1870's, 6249
new accommodation for museum,
64130
English church at, 65 275
Riffel Alp hotel destroyed, 66 380
proposed motor road, 66 380
entry of motors, 71 142
ill., the Club Room of, in 1864, 6238
Ziemann, H. P.: obit., 61380
Zinal: centenary of 1st inn, 64 240
development of, 72 133
Zoccone, Bocchetta del: 1st cr. from W,
69 280
Zurcher, A.: 'Josef Knubel', 67 269
port., 67 270
Special Districts
54
A list of articles and maps (but not notes) relating to ranges other than the Alps.l
Europe
1. British Isles
Post-war winter mountaineering in Scotland. By T. W. Patey, 65 186
An introduction to Swanage. By J. S. Cleare, 66 299
The Green Abyss: on being nearly drowned at Chair Ladder, Cornwall. By H.
Kilgour, 73 216
2. Caucasus
Two Caucasian first ascents. By D. W. Freshfield, 60113
The Caucasus in 1874. By A. W. Moore, 60 305, 61 123
The East Summit of Dych Tau. By M. J. Harris, 64 66
Jangi Tau. By A. Blackshaw, 64 70
The Traverse of Shkhelda. By H. MacInnes, 67 54
The Bezingi Wall. By E. Vanis, 72 57
Maps:
Caucasus, part of the Central, 60 358
Bezingi basin, 64 260
3. Norway
Aspects of winter mountaineering in the Norwegian Arctic. By N. C. Negri, 60276
Reminiscences of Store Skagastolstind. By E. Sundt, 62 151
Trollryggen from Romsdal. By A. R. Heen, 64 183
The North face of Trollryggen. By J. Amatt, 71 98
The North face direct of S0ndre Trolltind. By J. Amatt, 73 I
Some ethical considerations with a view to mountaineering in Norway. By A. Naess,
73230
Maps:
Lyngen, North-west, 60 277
0ksfjord Peninsula, 61 204
4. Pyrenees and Spain
Russell and the Vignemale. By R. Fedden, 65 80
Anne Lister's ascent of Vignemale. By V. Ingham, 73 199
A winter expedition to the Spanish Sierra Nevada. By A. C. Carter, 68 61
5. Tatra
In the Tatra Mountains. By J. Mostowski, 68 26
The Tatras in September, 1965. By J. Hunt, 7137
Polish mountaineering.
By P. Czartoryski, 72 103
Map: Polish High Tatra, 71 39
6. Other districts
The mountains of Crete. By L. H. Hurst, 65 208
The Gran Sasso d'ltalia. By E. A. Underwood, 69 34
Maps:
Crete, White Mountains, 65 208
Sans Nom, Pic (Dauphine), 61 88
1 Articles
on the Alps are too numerous
to list here, but are in the main index.
55
Africa
1. Central and South
Kilimanjaro. By D. L. Busk, 60 96
Mount Kenya, 1939-1952. By J. W. Howard, 60 270
The North face of Mount Kenya and other climbs. By H. G. Nicol, 69 81
The North-east Pillar of Nelion. By B. Cliff, 69259
The Grand Traverse of Mount Kenya. By T. B. H. Phillips, 70 294
African holiday. By G. A. Dummett, 64206
Lukenya. By J. W. Howard, 65 195
Amie! and Rwot. By H. A. Osmaston, 69 228
Elizabeth Peak, Ruwenzori. By D. L. Busk, 59 268
Further notes on the Ruwenzori. By D. L. Busk, 59407,60 105
A new map of the Ruwenzori Peaks. By D. L. Busk, 646o
An expedition to the Emin and Gessi area on Ruwenzori. By D. Pasteur, 69 191
The fairest Cape. By R. Baillie, 69 103
Maps:
Kenya, Mount, 69 82
Ruwenzori, the, 59 269, 64 60
Central,69 199
2. North
Climbing solo in the High Atlas. By C. W. F. Noyce, 67 65
The High Atlas in winter. By H. M. Brown, 71 43
Return to the Atlas. By H. M. Brown, 71 275
A note on Tieroko (Tibesti Mountains). By P. R. Steele, 69 268
The Simien and Batu ranges in Ethiopia. By D. L. Busk, 61 344
The Batu Mountains of the Bale Plateau, Ethiopia. By H. Smeds, 64217
Maps:
Atlas, High, 67 66
Ethiopia, part of, 64 220
Morocco, 71 276
Toubkal massif, 71 277
Simien Range, 61 344
Tibesti: Tieroko massif, 69 269
North America
1. Alaska and Yukon
Climbs in Alaska, 1954. By F. Beckey, 60 31
The Parachute Brigade Alaska expedition, 1956. By E. J. E. Mills, 62 121
Mount Logan (East Peak). By K. F. Ross, 64 54
The South face of Mount McKinley. By F. Maraini, 68108
The Moose's Tooth. By A. G. Smythe, 68 262
The West face of Mount Huntington. By D. Roberts, 71 15
Two North American expeditions. By M. E. B. Banks, 71 19
A visit to Alaska. By E. E. Shipton, 72 76
Arrigetch. By M. H. Westmacott, 72 109
The Yukon Alpine Centennial expedition-1967. By Lord Hunt, 7318
Note on Good Neighbour Peak. By J. V. Hoeman, 73 22
Maps:
Alaska: Centennial Range, 73 24
part of, 73 24
McKinley, Mt: district, 6z 124
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
!
I
I
I
I
I
i
!
I
I
!
2. Canada (except Yukon)
The Banff-Jasper Highway, 1952. By R. L. Morrish, 59 33
Bugaboo. By M. P. Ward, 65 18
The mountains of Wokkpash. By M. F. R. Jones, 6642
The Scottish-Canadian Coast Range expedition, 1965. By D. Fabian, 71 296
Map:
Purcell Range: Bugaboo, Bobbie Burns, and Conrad Groups, 65 20
3. Other districts
Mexican trilogy, 1963. By M. Fantin, 7048
The Rockies of Colorado. By E. Echevarria C., 71 26
Modern Yosemite climbing. By Y. Chouinard, 71 219
Maps:
Colorado, Rocky Mountains of, 71 27
Ixtaccihuatl, 70 5 I
Orizaba, Pico de, 7°49
Popocateptl, 70 50
South America
1. Peru
Le Salcantay et la Cordillera de Vilcabamba. By B. Pierre, 59 307
Invitation to the Andes. By J. C. Oberlin, 60 69
Further notes on the Andes. By E. Echevarria C., 60 79
Invitation to the Andes, Part II. By G. Francis, 60 280
Invitation accepted. By J. W. R. Kempe and M. H. Westmacott, 61435
Cambridge on Pumasillo. By J. H. Longland, 63 9
In the Cordillera Vileanota. By S. Jervis, 6438
The Imperial College expedition to the Nudo de Apolobamba, 1959. By W. H.
Melbourne, 65 175
The ascent of Cayesh and attempt on the virgin East ridge of Huascaran. By L. R.
Stewart, 66 199
Climbs in the Cordillera Vileabamba. By B. Hearfield, 6941
A journey through the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. By H. L. Stembridge, 6g 88
The ascent of Rondoy. By D. Wall, 69 106
Peru, 1964. By M. Slesser, 7°240
Alpamayo, 1966. By J. Amatt, 7218
Yerupaja. By J. M. Kosterlitz, 72 284
Maps:
America, part of South, 61 272
Andes of Peru:
Allinccapac group, 60 287
Apolobamba, Nudo de, 65 176
Blanca, Cordillera, 6g 92
high mountain activities of South American Indians, 73 82
Huagaruncho massif, 61 436
Pumasillo group, 69 43
Veronica de Urubamba, Cordillera, 7°244
Saguasiray massif of, 70 241
Vileanota, Cordillera, 64 40
Peru, 6074
climbing regions of, 60 284
57
2. Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego
Mount San Valentin. By O. Meiling, 59432
Crossing the Patagonian Ice-cap. By H. W. Tilman, 61 271
Two visits to the Andes of Southern Patagonia. By E. E. Shipton, 65 158
Aiguille Poincenot. By D. Whillans, 67236
Journey over the Patagonian Ice-cap. By E. E. Shipton, 67 250
The Darwin range, Tierra del Fuego. By E. E. Shipton, 67 259
The Central Tower of Paine. By C. J. S. Bonington, 68 179
Further travels in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. By E. E. Shipton, 68 230
Crossing the North Patagonian Ice-cap. By E. E. Shipton, 69 183
The first ascent of the Fortress and future prospects in the Cordillera del Paine. By 1.
Clough, 73 143
The British Cerro Torre expedition, 1967/68. By P. Crew, 73186
Maps:
America, part of South, 61 273
Darwin, Cordillera, 67 261
Paine, Cordillera del, 67151,73145
Patagonia:
Ice-cap, 61 274
part of, 65 161, 165
3. Other districts
Aconcagua, face Sud. By R. Ferlet and G. Poulet, 60 17
Some notes on the history of Aconcagua. By M. Fantin, 71 261
The Andes of Cocuy. By E. Echevarria C., 63 33
The Santa Marta range, Colombia. By E. Echevarria C., 63 209
The Cordillera Real. By E. Echevarria C., 64 44
The Chilean Cordillera Central. By E. Echevarria C., 64 228, 65 53
The Sierra Nevada de Merida. By D. L. Busk, 67 280
The Reading University Andean expedition, 1962. By R. H. F. Hunter, 68 219
A map of the Andes of Venezuela. By D. L. Busk, 69 122
Astray in the Andes. By M. Nelson, 69 217
Cordillera Real, 1966. By D. H. Challis, 72292
The South American Indian as a pioneer alpinist. By E. Echevarria C., 73 81
Maps:
Aconcagua, 71 261
Chilean Cordillera Central, 64 236
Cocuy, Sierra Nevada de, 63 34
Merida, Sierra Nevada de, 69122
Real, Cordillera, 6446,68221
Cooco valley, 72 296
Santa Marta, Sierra Nevada de, 63 214
Antarctic and Arctic
1. Greenland
Groenland-Sud. By C. Maillard, 63 18
The crossing of the North and Central Staunings. By J. A. Jackson, 66 250
The first exploration of the South Staunings. By A. Blackshaw, 66254
The Hjernespids. By 1. McNaught-Davis, 66256
The Imperial College East Greenland expedition, 1963. By H. D. D. Watson,
69 253
The Royal Naval East Greenland expedition, 1966. By M. B. Thomas and R. H.
Wallis, 72 29, 212
Sandhurst in Greenland, 1966. By J. D. C. Peacock, 7245
Upemivik Island: the University of St Andrews West Greenland expedition, 1967.
By P. Gribbon, 73 68
Sukkertoppen Wedding Cake: the Army mountaineering expedition, 1967. By
J. D. C. Peacock, 73 234
Maps:
Greenland:
activities of Royal Naval expedition, 1966,72213
Ikamiut area, Sukkertoppen, 73 239
illustrating route of Sandhurst expedition, 1966,7251
Schweizerland: access to, 72216
location of, 72 3 I
South, 63 21
Staunings Alpen, 66 252
area in which the Imperial College expedition operated, 69 256
Caledonia group, 69 128
Tasermiut fjord region, 68 308, 3 I I
Upernivik Island: activities of the 1967 expedition, 73 69
2. Other districts
The South Georgia survey, 1955-6. By L. C. Baume, 6x 465
Mountains of the Crozet Islands. By H. W. Tilman, 66 52
The Cambridge Arctic Canada expedition, 1961, to Cumberland Peninsula,
Baffin Island. By R. E. Langford, 6797
Climbing in the Antarctic. By M. Burley, 67 226
Spirit of the storm. By W. M. M. Deacock, 70 273
Mount Herschel and Robertson Bay: Sir Edmund Hillary's Antarctic expedition,
By M. Gill, 73 173
Maps:
Antarctica: Cape Hallett area, 73175
Baffin Island: Pangnirtung Pass, 67 105
Heard Island: showing 1963 and 1964-5 routes, 70 275
South Georgia, 6x 466
1967
Asia
I.
HIMALAYA AND KARAKORAM
(a) 8000-ers
The Swiss Everest expedition-Spring,
1952. By A. Roch, 59 I
Everest. By T. Graham Brown, 59 103
Everest, 1953:
Narrative of the expedition. By Sir John Hunt and M. Westmacott, 591°7
Sir John Hunt's diary, 59 123
The first ascent of the South Peak. By R. C. Evans, 59 173
The last lap. By Sir Edmund Hillary, 59 235
The closed circuit oxygen apparatus. By R. B. Bourdillon, T. D. Bourdillon, and E.
Harris, 59238
The oxygen apparatus in action. By T. D. Bourdillon, 59 247
Indian Mount Everest expedition, 1960. By G. Singh, 6615
The conquest of Mount Everest by the Chinese mountaineering team. By Shih
Chan-chun, 66 28
59
Chinese Everest expedition, 1960: a further commentary. By B. R. Goodfellow, 66 313
The Everest expedition of 1921. By G. H. Bullock, 67 13°,291
Everest: the Chinese photograph. By H. Merrick, 67 310
Mount Everest, 1962. By H. Dang, 68 I
Mount Everest: the Chinese photograph.
(I) By H. Merrick, 68 48
(II) By L. R. Wager, 6849
Transport and Sherpas on Mount Everest, 1963. By J. O. M. Roberts, 68237
Americans on Everest, 1963. By N. G. Dyhrenfurth, 69 I
Maurice Wilson and Everest. By T. S. Blakeney, 70 269
A Tibetan name for Everest. By T. S. Blakeney, 70 304
Nine on the summit of Everest. By M. S. Kohli, 71 I
K 2: the third American Karakorum expedition, 1953. By H. R. A. Streather, 59 391
The 1954 Italian expedition to the Karakorum and the conquest of K 2. By A. Desio,
603
The Kangchenjunga reconnaissance, 1954. By J. W. R. Kempe, 59428
Towards Kangchenjunga. By A. D. B. Side, 60 83
Kangchenjunga climbed. By G. C. Band, 60 207
On Lhotse and Mount Everest. By A. Eggler, 61 239
Makalu. By J. Franco, 6113
The descent from Makalu, 1961, and some medical aspects of high altitude climbing.
By M. P. Ward, 68 II
Dhaulagiri, 1953. By A. Roch, 59 302
Dhaulagiri, 1959. By F. Moravec, 65 II
The Cho Oyu expedition, 1952. By R. C. Evans, 59 9
Cho Oyu, 1954. By H. Tichy, 60 239
The ascent of Nanga Parbat. By W. Frauenberger and H. Buhl, 59371
The ascent of Shisha Pangma. By Chou Cheng, 69 211
Maps:
Ama Dablam, Makalu, Everest, 66 344
Dhaulagiri, 593°4
Cho Oyu massif, 60 240
(b) Bhutan
Bhutan Himal. By M. P. Ward, 70 106
Bhutan Himal: some further observations. By M. P. Ward, 71281
Perambulators in the land of the Thunder Dragon. By P. R. C. Steele, 72 264
The ascent of Chomolhari. By D. F. O. Dangar and T. S. Blakeney, 723°4
Maps:
Bhutan:
Monlakachung region, 72 270
Northern, 71 283
North-western
Himalaya of, 68 36
route followed in 1967, 72266
West, 70 107
(c) Karakoram
To the Monk's Head on Rakaposhi. By R. R. E. Chorley, 60 48
Struggle for Rakaposhi. By M. E. B. Banks, 61 449
The ascent of Rakaposhi. By F. R. Brooke, 63 159
The second attempt on Masherbrum.
By L. R. Hewitt, 61 29
Masherbrum,
1957. By J. Walmsley, 63 169
60
The ascent of Masherbrum. By T. F. Hornbein, 67 9
The climbing of the Muztagh Tower. By J. M. Hartog, 61 253
The Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. By E. E Shipton, 63185
The first ascent of Haramosh. By H. Roiss, 64 12
The Italian expedition to Gasherbrum IV. By F. Maraini, 64 155
The first ascent of Chogolisa. By T. Kuwabara, 64 168
Snow Lake, 1956. By D. H. Greenald, 64 175
The Army Mountaineering Association Expedition, 1959. By H. R. A. Streather, 65 37
The Batura Muztagh expedition, 1959. By J. I. Edwards, 65 48
Distaghil Sar. By W. Stefan, 66 I
Ascent of Trivor. By C. W. F. Noyce, 669
The Royal Air Force Karakoram expedition, 1961. By A. J. M. Smyth, 67 73
Khinyang Chhish, 1962. By P. J. Horniblow, 68 100
The ascent of Saltoro Kangri. By T. Shidei, 69 73
Communications on the Pakistan-British Karakoram expedition, 1962. By J. A. E.
Hasell, 69 98
The first ascent of Momhil Sar. By R. Pischinger, 70 69
Maps:
Aling glacier, 67 78-9
Baltoro glacier and K 2, 59 392
Distaghil Sar and Trivor, 66 5
Gasherbrum group, 64 156
Hushe valley, the, 67 78
Karakoram: part of, 63186
Kero Lungma-A1chori glacier basins, 65 46
Khinyang Chhish: general area, 68102
Malubiting massif, 67 168
Momhil Sar area, 70 70
Saltoro Kangri: route up from Goma, 69 76
(d) Kulu, lahul, Spiti
Glaciers of the Kulu-Spiti Divide. By A. E. Gunther, 59 288
Peaks of the Sissu Nala basin, Lahul Himalaya. By N. Wollaston, 60 62
The R.A.F. Mountaineering Association expedition to Lahoul. By A. J. M. Smyth, 6145
Central Lahul, 1955. By H. McArthur, 61 279
The Cambridge University expedition to Spiti, 1955. By T. Braham, 61 296
Spiti, 1956. By P. F. Holmes, 61 458
The Derbyshire Himalayan expedition, 1961. By R. G. Pettigrew, 67 323,6852
The ascent of Kulu Pumori. By R. G. Pettigrew, 70 74
Across the Sara Umga La. By R. G. Pettigrew, 71236
Bruce's Solang Weisshorn. By R. G. Pettigrew, 72 201
Papsura climbed. By R. G. Pettigrew, 73 158
Maps:
Kulti basin, Central Lahul, 61 46
Kulu:
showing routes of the Derbyshire Himalayan expedition, 67 323
Punjab Himalaya, 71237,72202
Malana and Tos glaciers, 73 158
Kulu-Lahul-Spiti watershed, 70 75
Kulu-Spiti Divide, glaciers of the, 59 289
Lahul, part of Central, 61 284
Lahul Himalaya: peaks of the Sissu Nala basin, 60 64
Spiti-Lahul-Kulu watersheds, 61 458
Zaskar and Lahoul, 64 84
61
(e) Nepal
The Yalung valley, 1953. By J. W. R. Kempe, 59 316
Scottish Nepal expedition, 1952. By T. Mackinnon, 59 417
Exploring the Api and Nampa group, Western Nepal. By J. B. Tyson, 59421
The Creagh Dhu Himalayan expedition, 1953. By H. MacInnes, 60 58
Lho La. By N. E. Odell, 60 132
The Barun expedition. By G. Lowe, 60 227
Round about Dhaulagiri. By J. O. M. Roberts, 60 248
Safari in Nepal. By J. Howard, 61 38
The Merseyside Himalayan expedition, 1955. By A. Gregory, 6154
The Scottish Women's Himalayan expedition. By M. Jackson, 616o
Climbing the Fish's Tail. By C. W. F. Noyce, 62 113
Women's Overland Himalayan expedition, 1958. By A. Davies, 64 83
Ama Dablam, 1959. By J. H. Emlyn Jones, 65 I
Annapurna II. By J. O. M. Roberts, 65 143
Nuptse. By J. Walmsley, 66 209
Himalayan Scientific expedition, 1960-1. By M. P. Ward, 66 343
Three months in West Nepal. By J. B. Tyson, 67 120
The Jagdula expedition, 1962. By D. Evans, 68 65
Dhaula Himal. By J. O. M. Roberts, 68 188
To Hiunchuli Patan. By P. R. Steele, 68 198
The Himalayan Schoolhouse expedition, 1963. By J. G. Wilson, 69 23
Thamserku. By D. Mackay, 7090
Gauri Sankar, 1964. By I. Clough:70 96
The ascent of Annapurna South Peak (Ganesh). By S. Uyeo, 70 213
The Himalayan Schoolhouse expeditions. By J. G. Wilson, 70 226
West Nepal expedition, 1964. By J. Cole, 70 254
With the Royal Air Force on Dhaulagiri IV. By J. O. M. Roberts, 71 75
The German Himalayan expedition, 1965. By G. Hauser, 7189
Maps:
Annapurna Himal:
South-western part of, 70 215
Dhaulagiri Himal, 60 248, 68 190, 71 85
Gauri Sankar:
massif, 61 54
route on, 70 97
Hiunchuli Patan:
North-west and West flanks of, 68200
Jagdula expedition, 68 77
Jugal Himal, 61 62
Nepal:
part of, 61 38
part of Eastern, 60 228
part of Northern, 59 I I
part of North-western, 59 427
part of West, 67123
West, showing 1961 and 1964 routes, 70257
Yalung valley, the, 59 321
2. HINDU KUSH
A Roman flag on Saraghrar Peak. By F. Maraini, 65151
The Polish expedition to the Hindu Kush, 1960. By B. Chwascinski, 66 235
Two journeys in Swat Kohistan. By E. J. E. Mills, 67 42
Swat and Indus Kohistan. By T. Braham, 68 25 I
62
The Garmisch-Partenkirchen Hindu Kush expedition, 1963. By I. Triibswetter,
6C}249
More climbs in Swat. By R. J. Isherwood, 70 205
The Scottish Hindu Kush expedition, 1965. By J. Wedderburn, 7I 58
Some climbs from the Upper Tirich glacier. By K. Diemberger, 7I 61
The exploration of the Hindu Kush. By B. Chwascinski, 7I 199
German Chitral expedition, 1965. By S. Rausch, 7I 215
A panorama of the Hindu Kush. By G. Gruber, 72 1
Journey to the Blue Valley. By P. Newby, 72 65
Shingeik Zorn-the Smoking Mountain. By I. Triibswetter, 72 85
Akher Chioh (7020 m). By H. Schell, 72225
Some notes on the Darrah-i-Parshui. By W. Frey, 72 308
A reconnaissance into North-east Chitral. By G. Gruber, 73 55
A visit to the Chiantar glacier region, Eastern Hindu Kush, 1967. By A. Linsbauer,
732°7
Maps:
Darrah-e-Abi, approaches to the, from Panjshir, and a walk to the fringes of
Nuristan, 72 67
upper, 7274
Darrah-i-Parshui, 72 309
Falak Sar region, 68 253
Hindu Kush, High (Eastern), 72 14
part of the, 7I 64, 203
Hindu Raj, between Shost and Vidinkot, 73 59
Chiantar glacier district, 73 208
Kohistan, approaches to, 67 46
Noshaq, 66 236
route of the Garmisch Partenkirchen expedition, 1963, 69 251
Saraghrar,66 198
Swat and Indus Kohistan, 67 50
3.
OTHER DISTRICTS
Three months in Upper Garhwal and adjacent Tibet. By G. Singh, 60 257
The mountains of Elburz. By B. Pierre, 6I 63
A map of the Central Elburz. By D. L. Busk, 63 207
The highest mountains. By D. F. O. Dangar, 62 165,64136,66 391, 73 241
The northern approaches of Kinabalu. By A. J. M. Smyth, 63 27
The second ascent of Minya Konka. By Shih Chan-Chun, 63 194
Conquest of first 7000 m peak. By A. Polyakov, 63 203
The first ascent and first traverse of Victory Peak. By A. Polyakov, 6474
The ascent of Muztagh Ata. By Shih Chan-Chun, 64 78
A journey to Western Tibet, 1929. By E. B. Wakefield, 66 1I8, 325
The ascent of Amne Machin. By Pai Chin-Hsiao, 66274
Some hints for Himalayan aspirants. By G. O. Dyhrenfurth, 68 36
British-Soviet Pamirs expedition, 1962.
(Part I) By J. Hunt, 68 90
(Part II) By I. G. McNaught-Davis, 68243
Twenty-five years of schoolboy expeditions in the Himalaya. By J. T. M. Gibson,
6C}201
Climbing in Turkish Kurdistan. By R. Fedden and P. Lloyd, 7I 133
Modern mountaineering in Japan. By Y. Yamazaki, 7I 248
Sat Dag, Hakkari, 1966. By S. E. P. Nowill,72 117
Austrian expedition to the Pamirs, 1967. By E. Vanis, 73 25
Maps:
Garhwal, Upper, 60 258
Garmo glacier, 68 90
Kinabalu, 63 30, 3 I
Pamir:
Peak Lenin area, 73 30
Takht-e Sulaimangruppe, 63
Tibet:
part of Western, 60 264
Western, 66 lI8
208
Australasia
1. Australia
Mountains of the Central Australian desert. By M. Hosford, 67 3 I 3
Map:
mountains of Central Australia, 67 319
2. New Guinea
Mountains of the White Arrow. By P. Temple, 68 78
3. New Zealand
Air survey of Southern Alps. By N. E. Odell, S9442
Mount Ruapehu, New Zealand. By N. E. Odell, 60 108
Southern Alps from end to end. By N. E. Odell, 60 365
A first ascent on Mount Cook. By H. MacInnes, 61 330
Mount Cook. By W. G. Croll, 69 262
A first visit to the New Zealand Alps. By T. A. H. Peacocke, 72 252
Map:
Mount Cook, 69 265
Printed in Great Britain
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Ballantyne
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