COMMODITIZATION OP INDIGENOUS CULTURES THROUGH TOURISM by RITVA KARAJAOJA .A., The U n i v e r s i t y o f B r i t i s h Columbia, 1991 A THESIS SUBMITTED IN PARTIAL FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF MASTER OF ARTS in THE FACULTY OF GRADUATE STUDIES DEPARTMENT OF ANTHROPOLOGY AND SOCIOLOGY We accept t h i s t h e s i s as conforming t o the r e q u i r e d THE standard UNIVERSITY OF BRITISH COLUMBIA A p r i l 1995 ©Ritva K a r a j a o j a , 1995 In presenting degree freely at this the available copying of department publication of in partial fulfilment of the University of British Columbia, I agree for this or thesis reference thesis by this for his thesis and scholarly or for her Department DE-6 (2/88) Columbia I further purposes gain shall that agree may representatives. financial permission. T h e U n i v e r s i t y o f British Vancouver, Canada study. requirements It not be is that the Library an granted by allowed advanced shall permission understood be for the that without for head make it extensive of my copying or my written 11 Abstract T h i s essay looks a t c u l t u r a l commoditization by people i n T h i r d World c o u n t r i e s i n response indigenous t o t o u r i s m . The common assumption i s t h a t commoditization i n v a l i d a t e s c u l t u r e and t h a t i t somehow becomes i n a u t h e n t i c . a I show t h a t even though the Indians of the Peruvian h i g h l a n d s s e l l •Indianess* for tourists their to photograph, the r e a l commoditization takes p l a c e by mestizos who a p p r o p r i a t e I n d i a n culture: t h e i r dress, r i t u a l s , handicrafts. The I n d i a n s and m e s t i z o s are both t r y i n g t o maximize t h e i r share of t o u r i s m revenue, little of which a c t u a l l y gets to the N e i t h e r c u l t u r e , however, highlands. becomes i n a u t h e n t i c i n the process. While the meanings of c u l t u r a l products may be a l t e r e d time, no c u l t u r e i s s t a t i c over and f i x e d i n time: new meanings r e l e v a n t w i t h i n the context of contemporary s o c i e t y . Key words: c u l t u r a l commoditization, a u t h e n t i c i t y , tourism, Peru. ethnic are iii Table of Contents Abstract i i T a b l e of Contents L i s t of F i g u r e s ..............iii iv Acknowledgements v . 1 SECTION I Introduction Definitions ' H i s t o r y o f T r a v e l , E v o l u t i o n of Tourism The Growth o f Mass Tourism Tourism as an A n t h r o p o l o g i c a l Subject Some T h e o r i e s on T r a v e l M o t i v a t i o n 1 2 6 7 9 12 SECTION I I .16 The D i s c o u r s e o f A d v e r t i s i n g I n t e r n a t i o n a l T r a v e l Brochures Amish T r a v e l Brochures T h i r d World T r a v e l Brochures Ramifications of A d v e r t i s i n g Discourse 16 17 18 20 22 SECTION 111 25 Peru as a T o u r i s t D e s t i n a t i o n The Tourism Complex Around Cuzco and the Highlands T o u r i s t i c Encounters and Commoditizations 25 ....30 .33 SECTION IV 46 C u l t u r a l Commoditization: A Case Study T r a n s f o r m a t i o n s and C o n c l u s i o n s 46 49 Literature Cited 53 iv L i s t of Figures 1. Photograph 1 . . . M e s t i z o boy and condor 2. Photograph 2 . . . Indian f a m i l y begging at t o u r i s t 3. Photograph 3 . . . Indian with llamas and h y d r o f o i l 4. Photograph 4 . . . U r o s Indian v i l l a g e on Lake 34 site ...36 38 Titicaca.....39 Acknow1edgements Most of a l l , I wish t o thank my Mother, L y y d i K a r a j a o j a , who throughout her i l l n e s s encouraged me t o continue when she needed me more. I thank D r . Robin R i d i n g t o n f o r making my undergraduate i n t r o d u c t o r y c l a s s i n anthropology so s t i m u l a t i n g and c h a l l e n g i n g t h a t I knew I would not become a b i o l o g i s t . I thank D r . E l v i W h i t t a k e r , my i n s p i r a t i o n f o r p u r s u i n g t o u r i s m as a t o p i c . I p a r t i c u l a r l y want t o thank my a d v i s o r , Dr. Ken S t o d d a r t , f o r h i s wise c o u n s e l , k i n d n e s s , and e x t r a o r d i n a r y p a t i e n c e . My h e a r t - f e l t thanks t o t h a t wonderful f a c i l i t a t o r , f o u n t a i n of knowledge, Margaret B a s k e t t e . F i n a l l y , I wish t o thank my f i a n c e , Peter C. Newman, s e t t i n g a work e t h i c which I found n e a r l y i m p o s s i b l e emulate and f o r h i s l o v i n g encouragement throughout. that for to SECTION I introduction When t o u r i s m i s the s t i m u l u s f o r some s o c i e t i e s t o commoditize a s p e c t s of t h e i r c u l t u r e i n order t o get a share of t o u r i s m revenues, the common assumption i s t h a t the c u l t u r e , or the p r o d u c t s of t h a t c u l t u r e , have somehow become i n a u t h e n t i c . I am g o i n g t o show t h a t commoditization and i n a u t h e n t i c i t y do not n e c e s s a r i l y go hand i n hand. Another assumption i s that t o u r i s m causes the n a t i v e s e l f tourist self remains u n a f f e c t e d . tourism, t o be changed w h i l e the I w i l l show t h a t i n c e r t a i n types s p e c i f i c a l l y ethnic tourism, i t the t o u r i s t s e l f is also possible of for t o change. I have d i v i d e d t h i s essay i n t o four s e c t i o n s . First, I am g o i n g t o d e f i n e some of the terms I w i l l be u s i n g , then I s h a l l move onto the t o p i c of t o u r i s m : how i t e v o l v e d , why anthropology should be a t the f o r e f r o n t of t o u r i s m s t u d i e s , and then look a t some t h e o r i e s r e g a r d i n g t r a v e l m o t i v a t i o n . Next I w i l l examine the d i s c o u r s e of t o u r i s m a d v e r t i s i n g and show how the a d v e r t i s i n g focus d i f f e r s between c o u n t r i e s which have been l a b e l l e d developed and under-developed. I w i l l show t h a t developed c o u n t r i e s are a b l e t o c o n t r o l the d i s c o u r s e of a d v e r t i s i n g w h i l e the under-developed c o u n t r i e s w i t h h i g h indigenous p o p u l a t i o n s l a c k t h i s power. I n . t h e t h i r d section, I w i l l d i s c u s s Peru as a t o u r i s t d e s t i n a t i o n and the tourist complex around Cuzco. I w i l l use photographs t o show how some ' 1 • •• ' . 2 indigenous people are t r y i n g to get a share of t o u r i s m ' revenue; I w i l l a l s o d i s c u s s other forms of c o m m o d i t i z a t i o n which a r e necessary to b r i n g i n t o u r i s t s and generate tourism spending f o r much needed revenue t o the a r e a . In the f o u r t h and f i n a l section, I w i l l d i s c u s s commoditization and p r e s e n t a t i m e - d e p t h case study as evidence t h a t c u l t u r e s adapt and c r e a t e new meanings t h a t are r e l e v a n t w i t h i n the c o n t e x t t h e i r current society. Contrary t o popular b e l i e f , show t h a t i n e t h n i c t o u r i s m , i t self t o experience is possible of I will f o r the also tourist change. Definitions > D e f i n i t i o n s are mental c o n s t r u c t s formulated a c c o r d i n g t o the d i s c i p l i n a r y parameters of a g i v e n f i e l d of study and, as yet, t h e r e i s no shared consensus of meaning w i t h i n the v a r i o u s disciplines i n which t o u r i s m i s a f a c t o r . definitions of t o u r i s t s anthropologists, economists, I have looked a t (and tourism) put f o r t h by sociologists, geographers, psychologists, and others who study t o u r i s m , but as John Lea (1988:4) p o i n t s out, even the word t o u r i s m " . . . i s capable of d i v e r s e i n t e r p r e t a t i o n w i t h one survey of e i g h t y studies finding forty-three definitions traveller, tourist, f o r the different terms and v i s i t o r . " , While a l l of the v a r i o u s d e f i n i t i o n s have been h e l p f u l i n i l l u m i n a t i n g the d i v e r s e c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s and a s p e c t s of 3 tourists and t o u r i s m , I have found the d e f i n i t i o n a l typologies put f o r t h by E r i k Cohen (1972:167-8) and Valene Smith (1989:12) t o be best s u i t e d f o r t h i s a n t h r o p o l o g i c a l e n q u i r y . within the These are the two most o f t e n c i t e d t y p o l o g i e s literature, as w e l l . organized t o u r i s t s , of t o u r i s t s , Cohen i d e n t i f i e s four types of i n d i v i d u a l mass t o u r i s t s , tourists: explorer types and d r i f t e r s . The f i r s t two types are institutionalized tourists, whereas, the l a t t e r two make t h e i r own arrangements and t r a v e l on t h e i r own. Cohen d e s c r i b e s t y p o l o g y as being " . . . b a s e d on the extent of the tourist's exposure t o the strangeness of the host environment as h i s s e c l u s i o n w i t h i n the his against 'environmental bubble' of h i s home environment t h a t i s s u p p l i e d by the t o u r i s t establishment" (1984:378) . S m i t h ' s t y p o l o g y i s based on the numbers of t o u r i s t s t h e i r a d a p t a t i o n t o l o c a l norms. Smith i d e n t i f i e s t o u r i s t categories: i n c i p i e n t mass, explorer, mass, elite, off-beat, and c h a r t e r . The f i r s t and seven unusual, four types correspond t o Cohen's n o n i n s t i t u t i o n a l i z e d e x p l o r e r and d r i f t e r categories. These t o u r i s t s are low i n number and can adapt t o the l o c a l norms of the r e c e i v i n g s o c i e t y . The remaining t h r e e , i n c i p i e n t mass, mass, and c h a r t e r correspond w i t h Cohen's i n s t i t u t i o n a l i z e d c a t e g o r i e s of i n d i v i d u a l mass and o r g a n i z e d t o u r i s t s . These t o u r i s t s numbers and expect western a m e n i t i e s . a r r i v e i n greater The two t y p o l o g i e s are 4 b a s i c a l l y the same, founded on the t o u r i s t s ' u n f a m i l i a r and perhaps even f r i g h t e n i n g reactions to circumstances. The t y p e s of t o u r i s m which the v a r i o u s types of tourists engage i n i s d i v i d e d i n t o f i v e c a t e g o r i e s by self-explanatory Smith (1989:4-6): e t h n i c t o u r i s m , c u l t u r a l t o u r i s m , h i s t o r i c a l tourism, environmental t o u r i s m , and r e c r e a t i o n a l t o u r i s m . P i e r r e L . van den Berghe e x p l a i n s t h a t i n e t h n i c t o u r i s m the natives are the p r i m a r y , or at l e a s t s i g n i f i c a n t , " . . . a n i n t e g r a l p a r t of the e x o t i c s p e c t a c l e " attraction (1980:377). The p u r e s t form of e t h n i c t o u r i s m , a c c o r d i n g t o van den Berghe, ethnographic t o u r i s m i n which the primary purpose i s observe the behaviour and a r t i f a c t s (Ibid.:378). of e x o t i c peoples" are more i n t e r e s t e d n a t i v e r u i n s and h a n d i c r a f t s than i n the n a t i v e s in themselves The boundaries of these c a t e g o r i e s are o v e r - l a p p i n g and a s i t u a t i o n a l a n a l y s i s of a t o u r i s t i c experience often "...to Van den Berghe a s s e r t s t h a t c u l t u r a l t o u r i s m i s a sub-form of e t h n i c t o u r i s m : t o u r i s t s (Ibid.). is will i n d i c a t e t h a t the t o u r i s t has engaged i n s e v e r a l of t o u r i s m simultaneously. The q u e s t i o n of what i s t o u r i s m continues t o be a l i v e l y of debate w i t h i n a n t h r o p o l o g i c a l and s o c i o l o g i c a l Among the many d e f i n i t i o n s (1978:149) types succinctly point circles. of t o u r i s m , Dennison Nash (and l o g i c a l l y ) states that tourism the " . . . c u l t u r e of l e i s u r e d t r a v e l e r s " . is I f i n d t h i s t o be an 5 acceptable t o say, d e f i n i t i o n f o r the purposes of t h i s p a p e r . Needless t h e r e i s an ongoing debate about who i s a t o u r i s t w i t h i n the l i t e r a t u r e as w e l l . My f a v o u r i t e o b s e r v a t i o n i s by David W i l s o n i n the Comments to Dennison Nash's 1981 •Tourism as an A n t h r o p o l o g i c a l S u b j e c t ' . definitions are needed only i f t h e r e i s about meaning, "...it Wilson s t a t e s l i k e l y t o be that confusion i s the t o u r i s t h i m s e l f who s h o u l d s u r e l y be the a r b i t r a t o r of such d i s p u t e s . a tourist..." article He knows i f he i s or isn't (1981:477). The words t o u r i s t and t o u r i s m suggest ' t o u r i n g ' . Not a l l people who go on a v a c a t i o n ' t o u r ' . Many go t o l a n g u i s h on a sunny beach and never venture beyond the c o n f i n e s beach even i f it For t h i s r e a s o n , interesting is situated of h o t e l and i n some f o r e i g n e x o t i c c o u n t r y . I t h i n k , van den Berghe has drawn an d i s t i n c t i o n between v a c a t i o n e r s s t a t i n g t h a t " . . . t h e best s u b j e c t i v e and t o u r i s t s , c r i t e r i o n of whether i s v a c a t i o n i n g or being a t o u r i s t i s whether one f i n d s natives one the q u a i n t enough to take t h e i r p i c t u r e " —the more t o u r i s t i c the t r i p , l o c a l people the g r e a t e r the number of photographs of (1980:376). S i n c e the main theme of t h i s paper i s commoditization of indigenous c u l t u r e s i n T h i r d World c o u n t r i e s , the k i n d of t o u r i s m I w i l l be examining i s e t h n i c t o u r i s m (as per Smith and van den Berghe) and the type of t o u r i s m i s i n d i v i d u a l mass 6 t o u r i s m or i n c i p i e n t mass t o u r i s m (as per Cohen and S m i t h ) . The t i t l e —commoditization of indigenous World c o u n t r i e s — tourists presupposes cultures that a s u f f i c i e n t in Third number of are a r r i v i n g and t h a t indigenous people are a d a p t i n g t h e i r c u l t u r e i n order t o enhance t h e i r a b i l i t y t o cash i n on tourist revenue. Commoditization i s e s s e n t i a l l y 'commercialization', f o r a more d e t a i l e d e x p l a n a t i o n , I w i l l use E r i c however, Cohen's definition: 'Commoditization' i s a process by which t h i n g s (and a c t i v i t i e s ) come to be evaluated p r i m a r i l y i n terms of t h e i r exchange v a l u e , i n a context of t r a d e , thereby becoming goods (and s e r v i c e s ) (1988:381). Some of the a l t e r n a t e countries are under-developed, developed country) my s o u r c e s . local, concept terms I w i l l be u s i n g f o r T h i r d World l e s s developed, and LDC ( l e s s due to the v a r i a t i o n i n t e r m i n o l o g y used by A l s o , I w i l l use indigenous, native, Indian, host, and ' O t h e r ' , a c c o r d i n g to the context i n which the i s used, and a g a i n , a c c o r d i n g to how my sources are u s i n g the term. H i s t o r y of T r a v e l , E v o l u t i o n of Tourism Throughout h i s t o r y people have t r a v e l l e d . Athenians, and A l e x a n d r i a n s had r e s o r t s t r a v e l t o escape the s t i f l i n g (Wolfe 1967). L a t e r , Wealthy Romans, to which they c o u l d summer heat of t h e i r cities the Roman Empire, which s t r e t c h e d from 7 H a d r i a n ' s W a l l t o the Euphrates, made i t p o s s i b l e for adventurous Romans to t r a v e l from one end to the o t h e r , P h i l i p L . Pearce p o i n t s out, "...needing two languages f o r the whole t r i p " and as o n l y one c u r r e n c y and (1982:54), In the M i d d l e Ages, the p i l g r i m a g e became an important motive f o r t r a v e l , and over t i m e , a n c i l l a r y s e r v i c e s evolved which can be compared t o our c u r r e n t h o s p i t a l i t y seventeenth c e n t u r y , the i n d u s t r y . In the 'Grand Tour' evolved as a s o r t of f i n i s h i n g s c h o o l f o r the sons of E n g l i s h a r i s t o c r a c y , however, a f t e r the Napoleonic Wars and the advent of r a i l w a y s , other, newly a f f l u e n t people were able t o s t a r t going abroad as In the n i n e t e e n t h affluence, well. c e n t u r y , with t h i s new m o b i l i t y and new people began t o go abroad t o spas and r e s o r t s in England and i n Europe. Pearce s t a t e s t h a t " . . . t r a v e l and t o u r i s m became a s s o c i a t e d and r e l a x a t i o n " (Ibid.). w i t h h e a l t h and, i n t u r n , with rest T h i s concept remains w i t h us s t i l l the form of annual p a i d v a c a t i o n s from which employees supposedly r e t u r n renewed and r e f r e s h e d , ready y e t a g a i n to put i n another year of work. The advent of mass t o u r i s m can be l i n k e d to an E n g l i s h e n t r e p r e n e u r named Thomas Cook who both o r g a n i z e d and s u p e r v i s e d t o u r i s t groups going abroad i n the nineteenth c e n t u r y . Cook made t r a v e l a c c e s s i b l e t o l a r g e numbers of people and h i s legacy continues i n the t r a v e l a g e n c i e s which in 8 still c a r r y h i s name. The Growth o f Mass Tourism A f t e r the F i r s t World War, m o b i l i t y was f u r t h e r enhanced by ocean i i n e r s and automobiles but i t was not u n t i l a f t e r the Second World War t h a t i n t e r n a t i o n a l t o u r i s m began t o o c c u r en masse. Economic p r o s p e r i t y f o r those i n the developed w o r l d f o l l o w e d on the h e e l s of the Second World War; moreover, war had been the i n c e n t i v e f o r tremendous advancements a r e a of a i r t r a v e l . I t had now become p o s s i b l e the i n the f o r a massive number of people t o go much f u r t h e r , much more q u i c k l y , than ever before. The growth of the t r a v e l i n d u s t r y has been n o t h i n g s h o r t of phenomenal. "In 1990, a c c o r d i n g to the World Tourism O r g a n i z a t i o n of the U n i t e d N a t i o n s , people...travelled (cited 429 m i l l i o n from one country t o another as tourists" i n Barnet and Cavanagh 1994:29). T h i s makes the mass tourist i n d u s t r y the w o r l d ' s l a r g e s t s t o c k of l o d g i n g , r e s t a u r a n t , employer. and t r a n s p o r t a t i o n f a c i l i t i e s e s t i m a t e d t o be worth about $3 t r i l l i o n , fifteen "The g l o b a l and one out of is every workers a c r o s s the p l a n e t spends the day t r a n s p o r t i n g , feeding, housing, herding, cosseting, or amusing t o u r i s t s " (Ibid.). A f t e r food and housing, t r a v e l l i n g i s the . third l a r g e s t household expense i n the developed world and a c c o r d i n g t o Barnet and Cavanagh, $232 b i l l i o n were spent on t o u r i s m i n 9 1990 (Ibid.). Tourism As An A n t h r o p o l o g i c a l Subject I t has taken a g r e a t number of years f o r the academic community t o view t o u r i s m as a v a l i d s u b j e c t of a n t h r o p o l o g i c a l e n q u i r y . John J . Bodine (1981:469) s t a t e s that the f i r s t o r g a n i z e d symposium was h e l d i n Milwaukee i n 1964 by the C e n t r a l S t a t e s A n t h r o p o l o g i c a l S o c i e t y . The f i r s t p u b l i s h e d a n t h r o p o l o g i c a l paper on t o u r i s m i s a c c r e d i t e d t o Theron Nunez Why, (1963). i f people have been t r a v e l l i n g abroad and a t home f o r many y e a r s , has t h e r e been a l a c k of r e s e a r c h i n t e r e s t i n the f i e l d of tourism? Pearce claims t h a t i t has t o do w i t h the P r o t e s t a n t work e t h i c which emphasizes the s p i r i t u a l v a l u e of hard work: p l a y and l e i s u r e are t h e r e f o r e not v a l u e d as activities worthy of study. Another p l a u s i b l e reason f o r d e a r t h of r e s e a r c h c o u l d be due t o the l a c k of academic p o s i t i o n s i n the f i e l d recognized (Pearce 1982:1-2); perhaps Claude L e v i - S t r a u s s has c o n t r i b u t e d to t h i s off the lacuna by s t a r t i n g h i s famous book T r i s t e Tropique with " T r a v e l and t r a v e l e r s are two t h i n g s I l o a t h e - and yet here I am, a l l set the s t o r y of my e x p e d i t i o n s " to tell (1968:17). Moreover,. L e v i - S t r a u s s c l a i m s the o n l y reason he had not w r i t t e n the book sooner was because he had been " . . . h e l d back by a s o r t of shame and disgust" (Ibid.). These words, from one of the foremost 10 a n t h r o p o l o g i s t s of our time, do not encourage the study of t o u r i s m w i t h i n the d i s c i p l i n e . All of the above reasons are c e r t a i n l y v a l i d , as i s the f o l l o w i n g o b s e r v a t i o n by Toby A l i c e Volkman (1990:91) who states: i A n t h r o p o l o g i s t s have not q u i t e decided what t o do w i t h t o u r i s m when i t appears on ' t h e i r ' t u r f . I t seems t o be a b l i g h t upon the l o c a l c u l t u r e as w e l l as an i n t r u s i o n upon (and a t h r e a t to) the a n t h r o p o l o g i s t ' s own p r i v i l e g e d domain. As a phenomenon i t i s e a s i l y d i s d a i n e d , mocked, even condemned; as a s u b j e c t of inquiry i t is easily t r i v i a l i z e d . Pearce echoes t h i s c l a i m s t a t i n g t h a t f i e l d r e s e a r c h e r s of a l l types, including anthropologists, have t r i e d t o i g n o r e the presence of t o u r i s t s and the impacts of t o u r i s m because are an annoying reminder t h a t most of the w o r l d , remote, i s now a c c e s s i b l e the garden p l o t , they however t o the modern world — " L i k e weeds i n t o u r i s t s s p o i l the c h a r a c t e r of the r e s e a r c h e r ' s c a r e f u l l y c u l t i v a t e d community" (1982:1). Malcolm C r i c k asks i f the reason f o r the l a c k of a n t h r o p o l o g i c a l study might be due t o the f a c t t h a t t r a d i t i o n a l l y a n t h r o p o l o g i s t s have s t u d i e d 'them' and not 'us' (1989:311). T h i s would seem t o i n d i c a t e t h a t t o u r i s t s are not e x o t i c enough t o m e r i t s e r i o u s a n t h r o p o l o g i c a l e n q u i r y . Even i f t h a t were the case, the many d i f f e r e n t impacts of t o u r i s m which a f f e c t lives of the the ' O t h e r ' c e r t a i n l y n e c e s s i t a t e s a g r e a t d e a l of research. 11 D e s p i t e the concerns v o i c e d by the academics, the decade of the 1980s has seen s e r i o u s a t t e n t i o n p a i d t o t o u r i s m s t u d i e s by a wide range of d i s c i p l i n e s Anthropology, geography, sociology, business leisure studies, (Pearce 1988:17-18). p o l i t i c a l science, studies, social psychology, environmental, r e c r e a t i o n a l and plus others, phenomenon i n t h e i r c u r r i c u l a . are a d d r e s s i n g t h i s global J a f a r i and Aasen (1988:410-13) have examined the data r e g a r d i n g the number of d o c t o r a l degrees granted i n the U n i t e d S t a t e s and Canada dissertations based upon devoted to the study of t o u r i s m . Geography and economics produced a few d i s s e r t a t i o n s A n t h r o p o l o g y , however, but i t 1 d i d not as e a r l y as the 1950s. 'discover' tourism u n t i l 1973 i s the d i s c i p l i n e which has shown the g r e a t e s t irate of growth w i t h a t o t a l of 25 d i s s e r t a t i o n s t o 1986, f o r which complete f i g u r e s were a v a i l a b l e . the l a s t 2 James L e t t (1989:275) s t a t e s t h a t "Modern t o u r i s m accounts the s i n g l e l a r g e s t p e a c e f u l movement of people a c r o s s boundaries i n the h i s t o r y of the w o r l d . " year Clearly, cultural this reason enough f o r s e r i o u s academic enquiry i n t o every for is aspect • ^ n l y 3 d o c t o r a l degrees were granted i n Canada. A l l were i n Geography from the U n i v e r s i t y of Western O n t a r i o . Between 1951 and 1987 (not a l l 1987 e n t r i e s were a v a i l a b l e ) t h e r e were a t o t a l of 157 d i s s e r t a t i o n s . Economics i s the l e a d e r w i t h 40, Anthropology next w i t h 25, Geography 24, R e c r e a t i o n 23, Business A d m i n i s t r a t i o n 11, E d u c a t i o n 9, S o c i o l o g y 7, Urban-Regional P l a n n i n g 7, P o l i t i c a l S c i e n c e 5, and the remaining 6 i n F i n e A r t s , S o c i a l Work, Theology, H i s t o r y , Mass Communications, and P u b l i c R e l a t i o n s . 2 12 of tourism. Some T h e o r i e s on T r a v e l M o t i v a t i o n There are many reasons f o r t r a v e l l i n g . There i s no need l e a s t w i t h i n the context of t h i s paper) (at t o d i s c u s s those who go abroad t o h e a l t h spas or those who take c h a r t e r f l i g h t s the p l e a s u r e p e r i p h e r y tanned, 3 to spend time on the beach, i s t h a t t o T h i r d World c o u n t r i e s w i t h h i g h indigenous p o p u l a t i o n s , 4 get or j u s t have some ' f u n ' . The type of t o u r i s m I wish to address Peru. to specifically Although the indigenous p o p u l a t i o n i s v e r y h i g h , have v e r y l i t t l e power p o l i t i c a l l y ; g e n e r a l l y , they they are a l s o v e r y poor i n comparison to the r e s t of the p o p u l a t i o n . The tourists who t r a v e l t o Peru and other c o u n t r i e s are p r i m a r i l y i n t e r e s t e d people themselves, i n the c u l t u r e of the in their artifacts, of e a r l i e r c i v i l i z a t i o n s . such as these indigenous and i n the e x t a n t r u i n s I t i s t o t h i s type of t o u r i s m t h a t the t h e o r i e s best lend themselves. L e a (1988:1) s t a t e s t h a t the p l e a s u r e p e r i p h e r y i s a "band of host c o u n t r i e s s t r e t c h i n g from Mexico and the Caribbean t o the Mediterranean; from East A f r i c a v i a the I n d i a n Ocean and South-east A s i a to the P a c i f i c I s l a n d s ; thence back t o Southern C a l i f o r n i a and M e x i c o . " 3 W h i l e t h e r e are many other c o u n t r i e s which f i t the c r i t e r i o n , Peru i s the country i n which I have spent the most amount of time and am most f a m i l i a r w i t h . 4 13 There are numerous t h e o r i e s as t o why people t r a v e l : a r e t u r n t o the womb, or a form of b i r t h or r e b i r t h ( D i c h t e r 1967) ; a form of p i l g r i m a g e , a sacred journey (Graburn 1989) ; a r i t e of passage from s o c i e t a s t o communitas (Turner and Turner 1978) ; a need t o r e g a i n a sense of purpose (van den Berghe and Keyes 1984); an attempt to escape the a l i e n a t i o n of modern s o c i e t y (MacCannell 1989), and so on. Dean M a c C a n n e l l ' s seminal work, The T o u r i s t : A New Theory of the L e i s u r e C l a s s (1976, 1989 2d.ed.) r a i s e s the concept of a u t h e n t i c i t y which, some twenty years a f t e r published, is i t was first s t i l l debated and o f t e n c i t e d w i t h i n the a n t h r o p o l o g i c a l and s o c i o l o g i c a l work, MacCannell i n t e g r a t e s of E r v i n g Goffman l i t e r a t u r e . In t h i s landmark and expounds upon the e a r l i e r work (1959) which i s based on the n o t i o n of a f r o n t - b a c k dichotomy ( f r o n t s t a g e and b a c k s t a g e ) . t h a t which i s presented to t o u r i s t s and t h e r e f o r e Frontstage is inauthentic, and backstage — t h a t which the t o u r i s t cannot u s u a l l y access— the authentic. A c c o r d i n g t o MacCannell, "The i n t e l l e c t u a l c r i t i q u e of assumes the i n a u t h e n t i c i t y of everyday l i f e world" (1989:147); t h e r e f o r e , authenticity. i n the modern the t o u r i s t i c quest is for I n a u t h e n t i c i t y i s the r e s u l t of a l i e n a t i o n which i s the product of contemporary i n d u s t r i a l i z e d s o c i e t y . then, society i s a post-modern phenomenon: i t Tourism i s an escape i n which persons from t h i s a l i e n a t e d s o c i e t y "Absolute Other" ( I b i d . : 5 ) , •authentic 1 go i n search of thereby descending upon the worlds of indigenous peoples whose l i v e s have not y e t been a l t e r e d (too d r a s t i c a l l y ) by the p r o c e s s e s of m o d e r n i z a t i o n . MacCannell s t a t e s , "For moderns, r e a l i t y and a u t h e n t i c i t y are thought to be elsewhere: periods, the and other c u l t u r e s , i n purer, i n other h i s t o r i c a l simpler lifestyles" (Ibid.:3). Clearly, the quest f o r a u t h e n t i c i t y i s not a s u s t a i n a b l e because c o n t a c t i s t h a t which d e s t r o y s it. Most t o u r i s t s who engage i n e t h n i c t o u r i s m are r e l a t i v e l y knowledgeable the w o r l d and t h i s p r e c l u d e s a b e l i e f one about i n the e x i s t e n c e of an A b s o l u t e O t h e r ; r a t h e r , the quest f o r a u t h e n t i c i t y becomes a quest f o r a u t h e n t i c experiences. Being an i n v e t e r a t e t r a v e l l e r , 5 I have o f t e n thought about reason why I t r a v e l —why I f e e l the a need to t r a v e l — and why I have o f t e n chosen t o go to d e v e l o p i n g c o u n t r i e s . Sometimes when I have r e t u r n e d home I have sworn never t o go a g a i n (as i n the case of Peru) only to f i n d myself p l a n n i n g t o go y e t again. In a graduate seminar on t o u r i s m i n the s p r i n g of 1992, Much has been w r i t t e n about the nature of a u t h e n t i c i t y . I s h a l l not attempt t o expound on the l i t e r a t u r e h e r e . For the purposes of t h i s paper, a u t h e n t i c i t y i s t h a t which the t o u r i s t p e r c e i v e s as a u t h e n t i c , or f a l l s w i t h i n the realm of b e i n g acceptably authentic. 5 15 q u i t e u n e x p e c t e d l y , my reasons became c l e a r . On a 3" x 5" index c a r d I wrote the f o l l o w i n g : I am o p e r a t i n g under the assumption t h a t w h i l e t o u r i s t s are e x p e r i e n c i n g other c u l t u r e s e t i c a l l y , they are hoping t o experience them e m i c a l l y . To be human i n c l u d e s the need f o r meaningful i n t e r a c t i o n with ones f e l l o w human b e i n g s , and most p a r t i c u l a r l y when these human beings may be c u l t u r a l l y , r a c i a l l y , e t h n i c a l l y v e r y d i f f e r e n t . There i s a need i n a l l of us t o be r e a s s u r e d t h a t i n d e e d , we humans are a l l b a s i c a l l y the same. Dean MacCannell (1989:10) supports my h y p o t h e s i s i n p a r t : The t o u r i s t i c c r i t i q u e of t o u r i s m i s based on a d e s i r e t o go beyond the other 'mere' t o u r i s t s t o a more profound a p p r e c i a t i o n of s o c i e t y and c u l t u r e , and i t i s by no means l i m i t e d t o i n t e l l e c t u a l statements. A l l t o u r i s t s d e s i r e t h i s deeper involvement with s o c i e t y and c u l t u r e t o some degree; i t i s a b a s i c component of t h e i r motivation to t r a v e l . In summary, many t h e o r i e s e x i s t as t o why people t r a v e l . we are a l l i n d i v i d u a l s , we have i n d i v i d u a l motives travelling. I do b e l i e v e , experience, for though, t h a t those people who engage i n e t h n i c t o u r i s m may have a s i m i l a r quest: e x p e r i e n c e s which f u l f i l Since a quest t o a c c e s s t h e i r concept of a u t h e n t i c i t y . From I can a t t e s t t o the f a c t t h a t when t h i s quest o c c a s i o n a l l y r e a l i z e d , the t o u r i s t i c experience t r u l y is becomes extraordinary. In the f o l l o w i n g s e c t i o n , I w i l l show how the language and images of t o u r i s m a d v e r t i s i n g promise, but seldom f u l f i l , t o u r i s t i c quest f o r a u t h e n t i c i t y . the 16 SECTION I I The D i s c o u r s e of A d v e r t i s i n g Travel destinations can be c l a s s i f i e d as commodities because they are b e i n g marketed l i k e other manufactured goods and services. In order t o s e l l these d e s t i n a t i o n s , the travel i n d u s t r y c r e a t e s c e r t a i n images through which they hope a t t r a c t the maximum number of buyers. The b u y e r s , case, in to this are t o u r i s t s who purchase package t o u r s —complete with the imagery— marketed by the a d v e r t i s e r s . The a d v e r t i s e r s may be c o u n t r i e s , airline p r o v i n c e s or s t a t e s , h o t e l s and r e s o r t s , cities, t r a v e l agencies, attractions, companies, and o t h e r s who stand t o p r o f i t from the l u c r a t i v e mass t o u r i s m market. this section, advertising: I w i l l review three papers on t o u r i s m (1) Robert S. D i l l e y , a geographer, i n t e r n a t i o n a l t r a v e l brochures i n g e n e r a l sociologist, (2) compares Roy C . Buck, a analyzes the a d v e r t i s i n g brochures of the Amish i n North America (3) special interest i n i n t e r n a t i o n a l t o u r i s m and people, looks s p e c i f i c a l l y Robert A . B r i t t o n , h i s own d i s c i p l i n e , a geographer w i t h a indigenous a t the image of the T h i r d World i n t o u r i s m m a r k e t i n g . Each author w r i t e s content from the p e r s p e c t i v e y e t each paper has an a n t h r o p o l o g i c a l c e n t r a l t o my hypothesis for this section: a d v e r t i s i n g focus of t o u r i s t brochures d i f f e r s the between c o u n t r i e s which have been l a b e l l e d as developed and u n d e r developed. In of 17 I n t e r n a t i o n a l T r a v e l Brochures "There seems l i t t l e doubt t h a t f o r many people tourist brochures — o b t a i n e d from t r a v e l agencies or from o f f i c i a l government t o u r i s t bureaux [ s i c ] — p l a y a major r o l e i n forming t h e i r i m a g e s . . . " ( D i l l e y 1986:60). D i l l e y has examined the i n t e r n a t i o n a l t o u r i s t brochures of twenty-one countries in an attempt t o g a i n an understanding of the images c e r t a i n c o u n t r i e s are t r y i n g t o p r o j e c t t o p r o s p e c t i v e North American tourists. D i l l e y has c l a s s i f i e d the photographic images and grouped them i n t o the f o l l o w i n g c a t e g o r i e s : services, c o a s t a l landscapes, h i s t o r y and a r t , landscapes, l o c a l people, entertainment, attraction f l o r a and fauna, mountain l a n d s c a p e s , rural r e c r e a t i o n a l p a r t i c i p a t i o n , reassurance services, and urban l a n d s c a p e s . D i l l e y was not s p e c i f i c a l l y s e a r c h i n g f o r d i f f e r e n c e s the a d v e r t i s i n g images of developed developed (Old World) and u n d e r - ( T h i r d World) c o u n t r i e s , however, differences between certain c l e a r l y emerged. H i s f i n d i n g s i n d i c a t e t h a t t e n O l d World c o u n t r i e s he looked a t , the eight presented h i s t o r y and a r t as the p r i n c i p a l image and the remaining two had h i s t o r y and a r t as a secondary image a f t e r mountain l a n d s c a p e s ; c l e a r l y , these c o u n t r i e s are p r i m a r i l y u s i n g c u l t u r a l themes t o a t t r a c t t o u r i s m . On the o t h e r hand, the i s l a n d s and c o u n t r i e s of A n t i g u a , Bahamas, Barbados, Bermuda, Cayman I s l a n d s , T r i n i d a d and Tobago a l l emphasize the f o u r s's 18 —sun, sea, sand, and sex. T h e i r primary themes f a l l within the c a t e g o r i e s of r e c r e a t i o n a l p a r t i c i p a t i o n and c o a s t a l landscapes, r e p l e t e w i t h the p r e r e q u i s i t e s e x u a l through the u s u a l beach scene c l i c h e s . The p o i n t . o f comparison i s t h a t the imagery promoted by the islands intimations this Caribbean (and Bermuda) i s devoid of any c u l t u r a l theme. as i f t h e s e i s l a n d s have no a r t , no h i s t o r y , exist solely tourists. four s's no c u l t u r e is —they as p l e a s u r e playgrounds f o r North American C o n v e r s e l y , none of the ten Old-WorId emphasizes It the four s ' s ; it is, however, countries a known f a c t t h a t the are a primary a t t r a c t i o n of both Spain and P o r t u g a l \ and the remaining e i g h t c o u n t r i e s c e r t a i n l y o f f e r of v a r i o u s r e c r e a t i o n a l o p p o r t u n i t i e s , an abundance yet they choose t o emphasize the c u l t u r a l aspects of t h e i r instead societies. Amish T r a v e l Brochures Roy C . Buck (1977) has looked at the t o u r i s t brochures of 'Amish Country' constitute i n L a n c a s t e r County, P e n n s y l v a n i a . The Amish a d i s t i n c t community w i t h i n the developed w o r l d : their history, r e l i g i o n , economic c h o i c e s , and o t h e r factors have l e a d t o t h e i r continued s e p a r a t i o n from mainstream society. 6 I must p o i n t out, though, t h a t i t have chosen t o keep t h e i r s o c i e t y separate i s the Amish who from t h a t of developed world and i t has been t h i s penchant f o r the separation D a v i d H a r r i s o n c a l l s the Pennsylvania Amish " i s l a n d s ' t r a d i t i o n ' i n an ocean of modernity" (1992:21). 6 of 19 t h a t has l e d them to be the o b j e c t s of t o u r i s t i c curiosity. Amish t o u r i s t brochures are put out by i n d i v i d u a l a t t r a c t i o n s and can be found everywhere i n c l u d i n g i n the l a r g e urban c e n t r e s of New York, P h i l a d e l p h i a , Washington, and B a l t i m o r e which are r e l a t i v e l y c l o s e by. Buck s t a t e s t h a t these brochures are i n s t r u m e n t a l i n a t t r a c t i n g some t h r e e m i l l i o n tourists a year which are accommodated by a w e l l system of a t t r a c t i o n s and f a c i l i t i e s a s p e c t s of Amish c u l t u r e — h i s t o r y , However, i t i s only possible through staged a t t r a c t i o n s show), developed promoting d i f f e r e n t r e l i g i o n , farm life. to see and experience (museums and farms s e t guided t o u r s t o the c o u n t r y s i d e , the culture up f o r and f o r those who want t o do i t on t h e i r own, maps l e a d i n g to these v e r y same locations. What i s remarkable i s how the Amish have adapted and come t o terms w i t h the i n f l u x of mass t o u r i s m —they have manipulated the t o u r i s t i c experience away from t h e i r d a i l y l i v e s and c o n t a i n e d i t w i t h i n a network of staged a c t i v i t i e s . s t a t e s "Brochures are e s s e n t i a l l y Buck fraudulent i n t h e i r t a u t o l o g i c a l messages of guaranteeing t h a t what i s i s what w i l l be seen and experienced. advertised The t a u t o l o g i c a l event i s a c l o s e d c i r c l e . T o u r i s t s are caught up i n a w o r l d not of t h e i r making and t h e i r only choice i s among the staged t a u t o l o g i e s " (Ibid.:206). It is, in fact, alternative possible to 20 v i s i t Amish Country f o r two or t h r e e days and not see 'real' any Amish a t a l l . Buck notes t h a t not a l l Amish are by the commoditization of t h e i r c u l t u r e and the i n a u t h e n t i c i t y of the 'authentic' inherent staged a t t r a c t i o n s ; f o r the Amish community as a whole, pleased however, the s o l u t i o n appears t o be working w e l l . T h i r d World T r a v e l Brochures Robert A . B r i t t o n (1979) has s p e c i f i c a l l y looked a t the imagery generated by the t o u r i s m i n d u s t r y i n promoting t r a v e l t o T h i r d World c o u n t r i e s . The a d v e r t i s i n g i s intended to perform the same s o r t of f u n c t i o n on an i n t e r n a t i o n a l s c a l e the brochures f o r the Amish Country at the r e g i o n a l l e v e l , the p l a y i n g f i e l d s is are not l e v e l . yet F i r s t of a l l , Amish Country s i t u a t e d w i t h i n the developed w o r l d ; second, importantly, as the Amish have had the power t o and most implement s t r a t e g i e s which have enabled them to c o n t r o l mass t o u r i s m and mitigate its e f f e c t s on t h e i r society. B r i t t o n contends t h a t the imagery put f o r t h by the t o u r i s m i n d u s t r y i s d i s t o r t e d and t h e r e f o r e impacts a d v e r s e l y on the q u a l i t y of the t o u r i s t i c experience. Britton states that primary reason behind the u n t r u t h f u l n e s s that i t i s an attempt to overcompensate p o v e r t y of the host c o u n t r y : t o u r i s t s in advertising f o r the the is visible are coming f o r a v a c a t i o n and do not want t o be bothered by l o c a l problems. 21 Secondly, governments are w e l l aware of the f a c t t h a t t r o p i c a l locations are t o a l a r g e extent i n t e r c h a n g e a b l e and truthfulness i n a d v e r t i s i n g j u s t might send the t o u r i s t s competing l o c a t i o n . to a T h i s would be c a t a s t r o p h i c f o r those c o u n t r i e s whose economies are p r e c a r i o u s l y dependent upon tourism revenues. Britton identifies numerous themes which run through the a d v e r t i s e d images. "One n e a r l y u b i q u i t o u s theme i s t h a t poor c o u n t r i e s are not r e a l p l a c e s . M y s t i f i c a t i o n masks r e a l i t y . The e x o t i c i s a m p l i f i e d , u s u a l l y i n the d i r e c t i o n of Eden" (1979:321). The language used to d e s c r i b e these p l a c e s words such as f a n t a s y , paradise, unspoiled, sensuous, and untouched. The photographic images accompanying the reinforce this m i n i m i z a t i o n of foreignness for instance, and encourages it (Ibid.:322), mention t h a t too "almost or t h a t the s t a f f of a i s European t r a i n e d , and so on. The attempt minimize f o r e i g n n e s s (casinos, the i f the p l a c e i s p e r c e i v e d as advertisements everyone speaks E n g l i s h " certain hotel text sense of u n r e a l i t y by o m i t t i n g scenes which are urban and i n d u s t r i a l i n n a t u r e . Another theme i s exotic; include precludes references i s necessary t o the l o c a l m i l i e u emphasis on t o u r i s t i c p l a c e s g o l f courses, night clubs). and illustrations, stage props" r a t h e r than as r e a l people with r e a l activities B r i t t o n notes t h a t when to d e p i c t l o c a l people i n the "they l i k e l y appear as stereotyped to lives. (Ibid.:323), / 22 The r o m a n t i c i z a t i o n of the l o c a l p o p u l a t i o n w i t h i n the of its stoic, p o v e r t y —denoted by such d e s c r i p t i o n s as cheerfully n a t u r a l l y g r a c e f u l — i s yet another p e r v a d i n g theme w i t h i n the a d v e r t i s i n g , of p o s s i b l e sexual context sexual as i s t h a t of sex and the l i a i s o n s with l o c a l people i m p l i c a t i o n s are evident (double entendres) (Ibid.). i n the s u g g e s t i v e The language and the p r o v o c a t i v e photographic u s u a l l y those of a s t e r e o t y p i c a l , bare-breasted, suggestion images, generically dark-skinned, g l i s t e n i n g male or female, lying seductively on some sandy beach. R a m i f i c a t i o n s of A d v e r t i s i n g Discourse Can p r o m o t i o n a l images be dismissed as simply 'advertising* and not t o be taken s e r i o u s l y or are t h e r e more profound e f f e c t s ? B r i t t o n contends t h a t the c o n t r a s t between the p r o m o t i o n a l images and r e a l i t y i n the T h i r d World a f f e c t s experiences of the t o u r i s t s For the t o u r i s t , cliches "the experience and s t e r e o t y p e s " concurs, and the host s o c i e t i e s negatively. i s reduced t o v a l i d a t i o n of (Ibid.). Kathleen/Adams (1984:472) s t a t i n g t h a t the t r a v e l l i t e r a t u r e g i v e n t o p r o v i d e s a mental g r i d through which they f i l t e r tourists their perceptions. The t r a v e l experience authentic i t matches the images conveyed by the if the i s t h e r e f o r e deemed t o be literature. Thus, f o r the e t h n i c t o u r i s t the image becomes r e a l i t y : the t r a v e l a g e n t ' s s t e r e o t y p e i s r e i f i e d . These s t e r e o t y p e s are not c r e a t e d out of t h i n a i r ; they are based on genuine e t h n i c markers t h a t have become d i s t o r t e d and s i m p l i f i e d i n the t r a n s l a t i o n p r o c e s s (Ibid.). 23 T o u r i s t s g e n e r a l l y l a c k the time and knowledge t o the v a l i d i t y of t h e i r pre-packaged s t e r e o t y p e s evaluate (Ibid.)- c o n t r o l l e d nature of most t o u r s i s not conducive The to e x p l o r a t i o n and d i s c o v e r y of anything other than what has been prearranged t h e r e f o r e , brochure r e p r e s e n t s f o r the t o u r i s t , the r e a l i t y and a u t h e n t i c i t y . For the host s o c i e t y , Britton (1979:32 3) states that c o n f o r m i t y t o or i d e n t i f i c a t i o n with the s t e r e o t y p e s promoted by the t r a v e l i n d u s t r y i s d e t r i m e n t a l t o the f o r m a t i o n of s e l f - e s t e e m by those who have experienced a c o l o n i a l p a s t . D i l l e y has p o i n t e d out, it i s the developed c o u n t r i e s which promote images p e r t a i n i n g to h i s t o r y and c u l t u r e : the images of T h i r d World or under-developed c o u n t r i e s o f t e n promote commodities of sun, sea, As sand, and sex. This creates the the n o t i o n t h a t some T h i r d World c o u n t r i e s have no r e a l h i s t o r y or c u l t u r e of t h e i r own and t h i s can be d e v a s t a t i n g of a p e o p l e , society, nation, t o the spirit country. The Amish and t h e i r t o u r i s t brochures are an anomaly. The experiences cliches promised and d e l i v e r e d are pure v a l i d a t i o n s of and s t e r e o t y p e s . The Amish have d e c i d e d how much and what a s p e c t s of t h e i r c u l t u r e they are w i l l i n g t o d i v u l g e ; tourists believe Amish l i f e . they are seeing a t r u e r e p r e s e n t a t i o n the of Edward Bruner s t a t e s t h a t " T o u r i s t s are w i l l i n g accept a r e p r o d u c t i o n , as long as i t i s a good one, or as to one 24 t o u r i s t brochure put i t , reproduction'" as long as i t i s an 'authentic (1991:240-41). T h i s i s an example of successful c u l t u r a l commoditization and i t can o n l y e x i s t when the power is i n the hands of those whose l i v e s are t o be affected. 25 SECTION I I I Peru as a T o u r i s t D e s t i n a t i o n Although B r i t t o n ' s a n a l y s i s T h i r d World c o u n t r i e s of h i s findings situated situated i n the p l e a s u r e p e r i p h e r y , many apply a l s o t o Peru, on the c e n t r a l - w e s t e r n There i s , sea, of t o u r i s m a d v e r t i s i n g i s based on however, sand, a T h i r d World c o u n t r y coast of South A m e r i c a . a major d i f f e r e n c e . The f o u r s ' s —sun, sex— are not the primary a d v e r t i s i n g f o c u s . an o f f i c i a l o n l y f o u r are of women i n s e x u a l l y architecture, and t o p o g r a p h i c a l d i v e r s i t y . e x o t i c and mysterious without any r e a l i t y checks: of urban slums, indigenous attire. colonial Unquestionably, and these a s p e c t s are a m p l i f i e d t h e r e are no images of p o v e r t y or neighbourhoods. or of Only one photograph Indians and they are not i d e n t i f i e d : r e a l l y do appear t o be l i k e the 'stereotyped d e s c r i b e d by B r i t t o n (1979:323). In f a c t , reference artifacts, scenes of i n d u s t r i a l development, working or m i d d l e - c l a s s contains, s u g g e s t i v e poses or The m a j o r i t y are of a r c h a e o l o g i c a l s i t e s , depicts I have brochure put out by Fondo De Promocion T u r i s t i c a of Peru and of the eighteen photographic images i t Peru i s 7 they stage p r o p s ' there is w i t h i n the w r i t t e n t e x t t o the campesinos no 8 at a l l . P e r u has a n o r t h t o south o r i e n t a t i o n . S t a t e d s i m p l i s t i c a l l y , the e n t i r e c o a s t l i n e i s a r i d , the Andes Mountains run down the c e n t r a l p a r t , and on the e a s t e r n s i d e i s the Amazon b a s i n . 7 I was a d v i s e d i n Peru t h a t campesino i s now the p o l i t i c a l l y c o r r e c t term when r e f e r r i n g t o the indigenous I n d i a n s . The e a r l i e r term indigenes i s s t i l l a c c e p t a b l e . I s h a l l c o n t i n u e t o use the term Indian i n t h i s paper. 8 26 In view of B r i t t o n V s f i n d i n g s , too p o o r , too e x o t i c , official the Indians might be c o n s i d e r e d or too f o r e i g n to be i n c l u d e d i n an t o u r i s t brochure aimed at a Western a u d i e n c e . V i c t o r Alba (1977:132) s t a t e s t h a t a n t h r o p o l o g i c a l r e s e a r c h has shown t h a t the make-up of the P e r u v i a n p o p u l a t i o n i s p e r c e n t I n d i a n , 40 percent m e s t i z o , 9 are 'pure' white, ' p u r e ' Negroes, 47-51 " . . . a n d the remainder or ' p u r e ' O r i e n t a l s . " The 1992 p o p u l a t i o n f i g u r e given i n the Country S t u d i e s Area Handbook (Hudson 1993) these f i g u r e s , i s 22.7 m i l l i o n i n h a b i t a n t s . Based on the Indians are a huge s i l e n t m a j o r i t y : because they have no p o l i t i c a l power and s i l e n t i n the silent sense t h a t many are monolingual speakers of Quechua and A y m a r a whereas the power i s 10 i n the hands of the Spanish speaking people. Peru has been a t o u r i s t d e s t i n a t i o n f o r a v e r y long time because of i t s a r c h a e o l o g i c a l r i c h e s . The s i t e s are scattered throughout Peru but are mostly concentrated on the arid c o a s t a l p l a i n which s t r e t c h e s the e n t i r e l e n g t h of the country, and i n the h i g h l a n d s of the Andes. These h i g h l a n d s ^Mestizos are of mixed S p a n i s h - I n d i a n d e s c e n t . They have adopted the c u l t u r e of the Whites and c o n s t i t u t e the middle c l a s s of P e r u v i a n s o c i e t y . B e s i d e s Quechua and Aymara, t h e r e are many d i f f e r e n t l o c a l languages spoken i n the Amazonian r e g i o n . V a r i o u s e s t i m a t e s p l a c e the number between 30 and 40, and the number of speakers between 50,000 and 250,000. lc? 27 s t r e t c h south a l l the way to Lake T i t i c a c a and B o l i v i a . Recently, t o u r i s m has a l s o begun to p l a y a r o l e i n the development of the v a s t Amazonian r e g i o n which i s located to the e a s t of the Andes Mountain Range. T h i s huge mountain range effectively d i v i d e s the country i n t o very d i s t i n c t t o p o g r a p h i c a l r e g i o n s and makes land t r a v e l e x c e s s i v e l y difficult f o r those accustomed to a modicum of c o m f o r t . A i r services, however, are w e l l developed and under most c i r c u m s t a n c e s are the p r e f e r a b l e way t o t r a v e l . The i n f r a s t r u c t u r e i s not i n p l a c e t o handle mass t o u r i s m on a significant scale. I t can, however, accommodate Cohen's i n d i v i d u a l mass t o u r i s t category and Smith's c a t e g o r y of i n c i p i e n t mass t o u r i s m even i n the h i g h t o u r i s t season between June and September, although, from e x p e r i e n c e , i t can feel e x c e s s i v e l y crowded i n the main t o u r i s t s i t e s of Cuzco and Machu P i c c h u . The m a j o r i t y of t o u r i s t s a r r i v i n g from outside South America make some kinds of arrangements through v a r i o u s t r a v e l agencies p r i o r to t h e i r a r r i v a l . T r a v e l a g e n c i e s are t r u e f a c i l i t a t o r s because they have access t o such t h i n g s as t r a i n and bus t i c k e t s which normally might take a day o r more of w a i t i n g i n l i n e t o o b t a i n . In the l a t e 1 1 1980s, I had been on a w h i r l w i n d t o u r of South An u n o f f i c i a l source informed me t h a t b r i b e r y i s t o make t h i n g s run smoothly. 11 used 28 America and a t t h a t time had decided Peru would be the country I would most l i k e t o t o u r i n the f u t u r e . The o p p o r t u n i t y presented itself i n 1990 —I had 6 weeks o f f between semesters i n my f i n a l year as an anthropology major a t the U n i v e r s i t y of. B r i t i s h Columbia. My c o n t a c t i n Vancouver was a t r a v e l agent who was a l s o the daughter of the owner of one of the largest t r a v e l agencies i n P e r u . With her h e l p , we put t o g e t h e r an e x t e n s i v e i t i n e r a r y of many of the a c c e s s i b l e major a r c h a e o l o g i c a l s i t e s i n the c o u n t r y , i n c l u d i n g two i n B o l i v i a . I d i d not take a guided t o u r per se, but because I was t r a v e l l i n g alone and going t o some l e s s - v i s i t e d booked t o u r s t o see specific sites. Sometimes locations, I was alone w i t h a t o u r guide and a t other times t h e r e would be o t h e r who had booked through the same agency. I tourists T h i s s o r t of arrangement gave me l o t s of f r e e time t o e x p l o r e and do things on my own. When I departed f o r Peru, or m e s t i z o s , I knew very l i t t l e about campesinos land reforms, or the Sendero L u m i n o s o . armed o n l y w i t h a photocopy of pages 2-33 Geographic. V o l . 1 7 7 , No.6, June 1990, 12 I was of N a t i o n a l t i t l e d The Moche of M a o i s t g u e r i l l a s c a l l e d "Shining Path". They were v e r y a c t i v e i n Peru when I was t h e r e . P r e s i d e n t F u i i m o r i was a b l e t o e f f e c t the capture of t h e i r leader Abimael Guzman i n 1993 and a c c o r d i n g t o the news r e p o r t s , t h e i r a c t i v i t i e s have s i n c e subsided. 1 2 29 A n c i e n t P e r u : New Tomb of Royal S p l e n d o r Reveal a P r e - I n c a World. 13 and Masterworks I a l s o had along a v e r y o l d copy of some guidebook t o South America which I have s i n c e L i k e most t o u r i s t s , shock. misplaced. I was t o t a l l y unprepared f o r the culture I was v i s u a l l y a s s a u l t e d by poverty such as I had never seen b e f o r e ; I observed extreme wealth and i t s concomitant e x c e s s e s ; I saw how long and hard some people had t o work, o f t e n a t r i d i c u l o u s l y menial j o b s , j u s t t o make ends meet. T h i s dichotomy of extreme wealth and extreme p o v e r t y parallels the c l a s s s t r u c t u r e of Peruvian s o c i e t y : the white upper c l a s s i s wealthy, the mestizos are the working middle c l a s s , I n d i a n s , who are mostly concentrated i n the h i g h l a n d s , p o o r . On many o c c a s i o n s , and the are because of my apparent a f f l u e n c e , was embarrassed t o be a t o u r i s t . 1 4 I My t r a v e l agent, who had been born and r a i s e d i n Peru i n a white upper c l a s s f a m i l y w i t h many s e r v a n t s i n c l u d i n g a cook, gardener, and c h a u f f e u r , c o u l d not have a n t i c i p a t e d my r e a c t i o n s because, i t clear later, as she made t h a t i s the n a t u r a l order of t h i n g s i n Peru —people t h e r e expect i t t o be t h a t way. Having s a i d a l l these t h i n g s , I must add t h a t i t was T h i s i s the famous Lord of Sipan tomb, the r i c h e s t u n l o o t e d tomb i n the New World. I had the p l e a s u r e of meeting Dr. Walter A l v a , the a r c h a e o l o g i s t who i s d i r e c t i n g the d i g . 1 3 C o n v e r s e l y , when d i n i n g with the e l e g a n t owner of the t r a v e l agency, I was embarrassed because I d i d n ' t appear a f f l u e n t enough! 1 4 30 intellectually the most c h a l l e n g i n g and rewarding of any t r i p I have ever t a k e n . the But, i t was a l s o necessary f o r me t o 'environmental bubble' p r o v i d e d by the establishment retreat have tourist (Cohen 1984:378) as a p l a c e i n t o which I c o u l d and recoup. I r e a l l y was the epitome of an incipient mass t o u r i s t as I d i d n ' t always adapt very w e l l t o l o c a l norms (Smith 1989:12). I v i v i d l y r e c a l l becoming q u i t e upset times when t h e r e was no water, let alone hot water, at t o wash my h a i r every few days! The Tourism Complex Around Cuzco and t h e Highlands The Department of Cuzco and i t s just c a p i t a l , the C i t y of Cuzco (or ' C u z c o ' ) , are l o c a t e d i n the h i g h l a n d s of the Andes. 1 5 southern Cuzco i s a l s o the h i s t o r i c a l c a p i t a l c i t y of the Inca empire, both of which were conquered by the Spaniards i n the 1500s. Spanish c o l o n i a l a r c h i t e c t u r e is superimposed on Incan a r c h i t e c t u r e and the combination of the two i s a fascinating b l e n d i n g . T h i s makes the C i t y of Cuzco, as w e l l the many other a r c h a e o l o g i c a l s i t e s i n the s u r r o u n d i n g areas - - p a r t i c u l a r l y Machu P i c c h u — the most v i s i t e d t o u r i s t sites the c o u n t r y . that In f a c t , P i e r r e L . van den Berghe s t a t e s t h i s area i s one of the main a t t r a c t i o n s in on a l l South American T h e Area Handbook (Hudson 1993) g i v e s the p o p u l a t i o n f i g u r e of 1,041,800 f o r the Dept. of Cuzco. The breakdown i s 465,000 urban, 576,400 r u r a l . The C i t y of Cuzco had a p o p u l a t i o n of 275,000 i n 1990. 1 5 as 31 grand t o u r s (1980:382). 10 Van den Berghe has done e x t e n s i v e r e s e a r c h on P e r u , i n the Cuzco r e g i o n (1974, 1977, area i s 1980). especially He s t a t e s t h a t the i n h a b i t e d by urban mestizos and r u r a l I n d i a n s . The m e s t i z o s c o n s t i t u t e more than j u s t the working c l a s s and the p e t t y b o u r g e o i s i e of the a r e a : they are a l s o the p o l i t i c a l and economic r u l i n g c l a s s (1980:382). V i c t o r A l b a s t a t e s t h a t the m e s t i z o s of the h i g h l a n d s are i n a p r i v i l e g e d p o s i t i o n i n t h a t they, u n l i k e the mestizos on the c o a s t , are not s u b j e c t to anyone except white a d m i n i s t r a t o r s and hacienda owners (1977:134). They have a monopoly on the i n t e r m e d i a r y p o s i t i o n s i n the t o u r i s t t r a d e because they speak Quechua as w e l l as Spanish. 1 7 The b e t t e r educated mestizos a l s o speak E n g l i s h —some even speak a s m a t t e r i n g of French, German, and Japanese— and t h i s g i v e s them the a b i l i t y t o move between the worlds of, the I n d i a n and the t o u r i s t and a c t as a f a c i l i t a t o r t o b r i n g the two together (van den Berghe 1980:385). The I n d i a n s outnumber the mestizos but they a r e a t a disadvantage. I have chosen Cuzco t o i l l u s t r a t e my p o i n t due t o the a v a i l a b i l i t y of academic l i t e r a t u r e . I observed s i m i l a r types of c o m m o d i t i z a t i o n i n the Amazon and on the c o a s t , but not t o the same e x t e n t . 1 6 Many mestizos are s t i l l f u l l - b l o o d e d I n d i a n . The reason they a r e c o n s i d e r e d mestizo i s t h a t they have adopted /the d r e s s and l i f e - s t y l e of the w h i t e s . 17 32 . . . t h e y are handicapped not only by p o v e r t y and by the i s o l a t i o n of the communities many of them l i v e i n , but a l s o by the f a c t t h a t , when they do r e c e i v e an e d u c a t i o n , they are taught i n Spanish —a strange language— which l e s s e n s s c h o l a s t i c progress and d i s c o u r a g e s many (Alba 1977:134). Land reforms have not r e a l l y changed the l i v e s of the Indians. They are s t i l l a t t a c h e d t o the land e i t h e r through a commune or through a hacienda as sharecroppers or t e n a n t s . sufficient farming. potato, It l a n d t o p r o v i d e anything beyond Few own subsistence i s a d r y , c o l d c l i m a t e around Cuzco and the which i s along with corn. indigenous t o the r e g i o n , i s the main c r o p In the more temperate and t r o p i c a l v a l l e y s the lower a l t i t u d e s many v a r i e t i e s at of f r u i t s , v e g e t a b l e s , and g r a i n s are grown and then t r u c k e d t o Cuzco and o t h e r urban centres. U n f o r t u n a t e l y , the Indians i n the h i g h l a n d s do not n o r m a l l y have the money to purchase these items. haciendas r a i s e c a t t l e expensive. Large and sheep but meat i s a l s o v e r y In comparison to mestizos who have had a c c e s s to a more v a r i e d d i e t , the Indians tend t o be s h o r t e r and have o t h e r p h y s i c a l c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s which i n d i c a t e that m a l n u t r i t i o n i s p e r v a s i v e throughout the p o p u l a t i o n . 1 8 A c c o r d i n g t o van den Berghe, the e n t i r e t o u r i s t complex is P e r s o n a l o b s e r v a t i o n s and communication w i t h r e s i d e n t s and f e l l o w t o u r i s t s , many of whom were academics from North America on t h e i r summer h o l i d a y s . The Area Handbook (Hudson 1993) s t a t e s t h a t 12 m i l l i o n people s u f f e r extreme p o v e r t y (1990-92 f i g u r e s ) . M a l n u t r i t i o n and s t a r v a t i o n are the l e a d i n g causes of d e a t h . 1 8 33 c o n t r o l l e d by the m e s t i z o s . 1 9 T h i s i n c l u d e s the h o t e l s and r e s t a u r a n t s and t h e i r employees, taxis, tour guides, owners and s a l e s c l e r k s , s t r e e t p e d d l e r s , the vendors i n the market p l a c e s , shop a i r p o r t employees, and so on. The e n t i r e mestizo p o p u l a t i o n , d i r e c t l y or i n d i r e c t l y , b e n e f i t s tourism from (1980:383). T o u r i s t i c Encounters and Commoditizations Almost every t o u r i s t who comes t o Cuzco i s an e t h n i c tourist. They come t o see the r u i n s and the a r c h i t e c t u r e and they come t o see the indigenous people, festivals. t h e i r c u l t u r e , and t h e i r The Indians are i n t e r e s t i n g as a s p e c t a c l e because many c o n t i n u e t o wear c o l o u r f u l t r a d i t i o n a l c l o t h i n g woven from the wool of indigenous animals such as l l a m a s , and a l p a c a s . vicunas, Some of the women a l s o wear an i n t e r e s t i n g bowler type hat which begs t o be photographed. The m e s t i z o s are the c u l t u r e b r o k e r s , or i n t e r m e d i a r i e s , who facilitate encounters between t o u r i s t s and Indians (van den Berghe 1980:385-88). Sometimes these encounters are on the official i t i n e r a r y and i t i s not d i f f i c u l t t o t e l l t h a t the encounter i s w i t h other mestizo entrepreneurs r a t h e r than w i t h V a n den Berghe i s c o r r e c t about mestizo c o n t r o l ; however, i n many c a s e s , the a c t u a l ownership of the l a r g e r t r a v e l agencies and major h o t e l s i s i n the hands of the white r u l i n g c l a s s (personal communications w i t h owners i n Lima and mestizos i n Cuzco). i y 34 Photograph 1 a c t u a l Indians r e g a r d l e s s of what the guide p r o c l a i m s . See Photograph 1 (above) which i s of a boy demonstrating the wing span of a young condor. The boy i s dressed i n a n a t i v e poncho and hat but underneath he i s wearing jeans and running shoes. At the entrance t o t h i s viewing area i s a s o u v e n i r shop and the dozen o r so people I was with on the t o u r stopped t o do some shopping a f t e r watching the boy p l a y i n g w i t h t h i s Clearly, bird. t h e r e was an arrangement between everyone concerned: the t o u r i s t s would f e e l t h e r e was no fee o b l i g a t e d to buy something because f o r watching and photographing the boy and the condor; the t o u r guide and the bus d r i v e r would get a percentage of the s a l e s made to the t o u r i s t s ; the owners of 35 this little t o u r i s t stop would make a few d o l l a r s ; the boy would get more w e s t e r n - s t y l e this s t a t u s symbol c l o t h i n g . In a way, seemed t o be a f a i r exchange f o r everyone i n c l u d i n g the tourists because t h i s was probably t h e i r o n l y o p p o r t u n i t y t o ever see a l i v e condor. I r e c a l l being upset because I o b j e c t e d t o t h i s magnificent b i r d being used as a commodity. The Spanish speaking mestizo owners of the t o u r i s t spot a l s o wearing p i e c e s of Indian a p p a r e l . They were, in were fact, a p p r o p r i a t i n g a p a r t of Indian t r a d i t i o n and u s i n g i t as a commodity t o make themselves more 'authentic* the t o u r i s t s i n the eyes of ( " . . . t h e y manipulate e t h n i c i t y f o r individual g a i n i n response t o s i t u a t i o n a l o p p o r t u n i t i e s " [van den Berghe 1980:389]). T h i s i s a good s e l l i n g t a c t i c . I t i s b e t t e r on the i a u t h e n t i c i t y s c a l e t o buy s o u v e n i r s , same, even i f they are the from d i s t a n t l o c a t i o n s and from people who look like Indians r a t h e r than from the b i g c i t i e s or the a i r p o r t s from people who d r e s s i n w e s t e r n - s t y l e The clothes. p o v e r t y i s such t h a t begging by Indians near or a t a r c h a e o l o g i c a l s i t e s on t o u r i s t routes i s commonplace. A c c o r d i n g t o my guide of t h a t day, f o r some, t h i s a f f o r d s a much b e t t e r l i v i n g than the s u b s i s t e n c e farming t h a t most Indians s u r v i v e on. Photograph 2 ( f o l l o w i n g page) i s of an I n d i a n woman and her t h r e e c h i l d r e n w i t h some of the animals f o r 'cute' family a p p e a l . The people are s h a b b i l y d r e s s e d , 36 Photograph unwashed, a n d a p p e a r animals appear to 2 t o be v e r y p o o r . t o be v e r y c l e a n i n comparison. communicate w i t h them and I c a n n o t c i r c u m s t a n c e s which have l e d t h i s her c h i l d r e n I was n o t a b l e r e l a t e any o f t h e l i f e I n d i a n mother t o p r o v i d e f o r i n a manner w h i c h I f e l t begging Interestingly, the t o be d e g r a d i n g . She was n o t r e a l l y p e r s e . She w o u l d p l a c e t h e a n i m a l s and t h e c h i l d r e n c a r r y i n g them t o t h e f o r e f r o n t a n d when t h e t o u r i s t s photographed them, s h e w o u l d p u t h e r h a n d o u t h o p i n g to I o v e r h e a r d some m e s t i z o g u i d e s get paid. Although the t o u r i s t s t o ignore t h i s a d o r a b l e and t h e c h i l d r e n little telling t r o u p e , t h e a n i m a l s were s o s o p a t h e t i c t h a t a few p e o p l e took 37 photographs anyway. There are s e v e r a l d i f f e r e n t l e v e l s of c o m m o d i t i z a t i o n i n t h i s photograph: indigenous Indians t h e i r t r a d i t i o n a l dress, in n a t i v e animals of the Andean r e g i o n , said l o o k i n g , unwashed, and presumably hungry c h i l d r e n . A l s o , for this I n d i a n mother, we, the t o u r i s t s , were economic , commodities through which she hoped to feed her c h i l d r e n . T h i s was hot an encounter f a c i l i t a t e d by a t r a v e l agency o r e n t r e p r e n e u r i a l mestizo middleman. The encounter, was •authentic 1 albeit sad, because they were not mestizos p r e t e n d i n g t o be I n d i a n s . Photograph 3 ( f o l l o w i n g page) has an i n t e r e s t i n g juxtaposition of a modern h y d r o f o i l and a t r a d i t i o n a l l y g a r b e d . I n d i a n w i t h h i s l l a m a s . T h i s encounter was set up e n t i r e l y by the tourist company which operates the h y d r o f o i l a c r o s s Lake T i t i c a c a . Upon d i s e m b a r k i n g , the guide t o l d us t o take as many p i c t u r e s as we wished and not to o f f e r the f e l l o w any money because agency pays him. As soon as the guide was out of s i g h t , the the I n d i a n put out h i s hand f o r payment. The other t o u r i s t s walked away i n d i s g u s t : I gave the f e l l o w a d o l l a r and took numerous photographs. Not only was the j u x t a p o s i t i o n of the modern and the t r a d i t i o n a l i n t e r e s t i n g , i t was a l s o the o n l y instance when I had the o p p o r t u n i t y to c l o s e l y examine c l o t h i n g which had been k n i t t e d from homespun wool i n t r a d i t i o n a l p a t t e r n s . To me, t h i s i s an a u t h e n t i c t o u r i s t i c photograph taken i n a c o l o u r f u l t o u r i s t i c s e t t i n g which was not r e p r e s e n t e d t o be 38 Photograph 3 anything fellow o t h e r t h a n what i t was. I d i d n o t m i n d s l i p p i n g t h e some money: he was s i m p l y income by c a s h i n g The i n on h i s n a t i v e a t t i r e three previous t o u r i s t i c individuals encounters t o supplement h i s and t h e l l a m a s . have d e a l t with o r s m a l l groups, b u t e n t i r e v i l l a g e s have commoditized Uros I n d i a n s Titicaca; attempting i n order t o get a share 2 0 live actually, i n small v i l l a g e s they of the tourist on t h e s h o r e s l i v e on i s l a n d s w h i c h t h e y been revenue. o f Lake make ^ U r o s I n d i a n s a r e m o n o l i n g u a l s p e a k e r s o f Aymara. s u b s i s t on f i s h w h i c h t h e y c a t c h f r o m t h e l a k e . u They Photograph 4 themselves out of t o t o r a reeds t h a t grow on the shores of lake. Photograph 4 (above) i s of such a v i l l a g e . the The l o c a l t r a v e l agencies take t o u r i s t groups t o s e v e r a l of these i s l a n d communities and i n r e t u r n g i v e the Indians some s o r t o f renumeration. The n o v e l t y f o r the t o u r i s t s i s t o walk around on a reed s u r f a c e e n t i r e l y supported by water. a l s o made out of these reeds, as are the s o u v e n i r s which a few of the Indians t r y t o s e l l to the t o u r i s t s . appearances, The homes are By outward v i l l a g e l i f e appears to go on r e l a t i v e l y unaffected. P o v e r t y i s r e l a t i v e and I d o n ' t know whether the Uros Indians 40 c o n s i d e r themselves poor; t o me, however, t h e p o v e r t y o f t h e s e I n d i a n s was q u i t e e v i d e n t . L a k e T i t i c a c a navigable The l a k e i n t h e w o r l d and a t t h a t a l t i t u d e c h i l d r e n h a d n o t h i n g on t h e i r have been a c u l t u r a l feet or legs A local g u i d e on t h e t r i p t h a t r h e u m a t i s m and a r t h r i t i s I n d i a n s and t h e i r life l a n d based There was a c e r t a i n d i g n i t y soled are a fact of l i f e me f o r these i s much l o w e r t h a n t h a t o f about or guest t h e s e I n d i a n s and I i n their village. felt A l l I can i s t h a t t h e l e a d e r s o f t h e s e I n d i a n s have chosen t o a l l o w some o f t h e i r than the t r a v e l —the colourful i s l a n d s t o be u s e d lake, the reed islands, was e x t r e m e l y Whether t h e t r a v e l villages sites rather the villages, the a i r , the incredible purity of e x o t i c and t h e r e f o r e s a l e a b l e . a g e n c i e s were u s i n g t h e U r o s as commodities I n d i a n s were u s i n g t h e t r a v e l facilitate as t o u r i s t a g e n c i e s f o r c i n g t o u r i s m upon them. T h e e n t i r e Indians, the r a r i f i e d the l i g h t — their t h r o u g h my t h i c k felt Indians. v e r y much t h e v i s i t o r setting (which c o u l d who s p o k e E n g l i s h t o l d expectancy other surmise i t i s cold. c h o i c e ) w h i l e I , on t h e o t h e r h a n d , t h e c o l d n e s s o f t h e damp r e e d s r i g h t shoes. i s the highest I n d i a n s and o r , whether i n f a c t t h e Uros agencies as commodities t h e movement o f t o u r i s t s t o t h e i r to islands really i s inconsequential. In t h e f o u r examples I h a v e . c i t e d , t h e e t h n i c e x o t i c i s m o f t h e 41 indigenous Indians has been the b a s i c s a l e a b l e commodity. Van den Berghe c o n c u r s , s t a t i n g t h a t " . . . by and l a r g e , Indians are much more a t t r a c t i o n s than they are b e n e f i c i a r i e s tourism" of (1980:383). There are a l s o other ways i n which some of the r u r a l are a b l e t o get at l e a s t a s m a l l p a r t of t o u r i s t Indians revenues. Among other n a t i v e h a n d i c r a f t s , t o u r i s m has p a r t i c u l a r l y i n c r e a s e d the demand f o r a l p a c a p e l t r u g s , a l p a c a wool, sweaters, and other f i n e t e x t i l e s which t h i s wool i s woven i n t o . M e s t i z o middlemen purchase these goods cheaply from the Indians and r e s e l l them i n t h e i r shops or t o other i n the towns. retailers U n f o r t u n a t e l y , the Indians are not a b l e t o cut out the i n t e r m e d i a r i e s because most do not speak S p a n i s h , alone E n g l i s h ; 2 1 furthermore, they do not have the s p e c i a l i z e d knowledge t h a t the mestizos have about p r a c t i c e s such as o b t a i n i n g l i c e n c e s , knowing who t o b r i b e ( I b i d . : 3 8 5 ) . Spanish, let business f i l l i n g out forms, Since the a r r i v a l of or the the Indians have been e x p l o i t e d ; now, they are being e x p l o i t e d by the mestizos who are t r e a t i n g them and t h e i r p r o d u c t s as commodities, but at l e a s t , some of the t o u r i s m money i s t r i c k l i n g down i n t o Indian hands. Van den Berghe notes t h a t some I n d i a n communities have s t a r t e d the p r a c t i c e E n g l i s h i s the common language f o r communication between t o u r i s t s from d i f f e r n t c o u n t r i e s and P e r u v i a n s working i n the t r a v e l i n d u s t r y . 2 1 42 of p r o d u c i n g i n f e r i o r t e x t i l e s f o r the (Ibid.:383), tourists 2 2 a c l e a r i n d i c a t i o n t h a t t o u r i s t s are viewed as economic commodities by both Indians and m e s t i z o s . Many of the s m a l l towns around Cuzco and elsewhere i n the h i g h l a n d s have I n d i a n markets where the Indians come t o buy and s e l l t h e i r p r o d u c t s . These markets are p o p u l a r w i t h the tourists because, i n comparison t o buying i n Cuzco, they h i g h e r on the a u t h e n t i c i t y s c a l e . T o u r i s t s , however, rate must r e l y on mestizo knowledge i n order to get to these markets as are h e l d on d i f f e r e n t days, at d i f f e r e n t times towns, and so on. Once t h e r e , however, it they in different i s d i f f i c u l t t o know whether one i s buying from an Indian or from an e n t e r p r i s i n g m e s t i z o who has t r u c k e d i n h i s goods a l l the way from Cuzco, w i t h the p r i c e of the g a s o l i n e being added t o the (Ibid.:387). cost Theron Nunez makes the o b s e r v a t i o n t h a t when communities are economically dependent on t o u r i s m , "...(they) must maximize the e x p l o i t a t i o n of the t o u r i s t c l i e n t e l e t o the f u l l e s t " (sic) (1989:266). An i n t e r e s t i n g phenomenon i s the t r a n s f o r m a t i o n of t r a d i t i o n a l festivals i n t o l a v i s h t o u r i s t d i s p l a y s . The I n t i Raymi (or I purchased t h r e e sweaters from t h r e e d i f f e r e n t l o c a t i o n s . Upon f u r t h e r examination, I found one of t h e , sweaters t o be of such i n f e r i o r q u a l i t y and workmanship t h a t i t was t o t a l l y u s e l e s s . 2 2 43 I n t i Raimi) i s the most famous f e s t i v a l which i s h e l d y e a r l y on June 24th. l a v i s h processions i n the highlands I t i s combined w i t h 2 3 the of the C a t h o l i c Feast of Corpus C h r i s t i a l o n g w i t h other f e s t i v i t i e s put on by the Chamber of Commerce of Cuzco. T h i s week-long c e l e b r a t i o n i s c a l l e d the Semana d e l Cuzco, the climax of which i s the a c t u a l ceremony of the Raymi which i s h e l d i n the Incan f o r t r e s s Inti of Sacsahuaman o v e r l o o k i n g Cuzco (van den Berghe 1980:386-87). Van den Berghe calls this a revivalistic festival, t o u r i s t oriented a c t i v i t i e s (Ibid.:386). " . . . a week l o n g orgy of —some a u t h e n t i c , some staged..." A u t h e n t i c Indian groups i n t r a d i t i o n a l r e g a l i a come from a l l over southern Peru t o perform songs and dances for tourists itself, and mestizos a l i k e . however, Inca k i n g festival mestizos dress up as Indians and l o c a l s t y l i s h secretaries supplies For the I n t i Raymi become Incan v e s t a l v i r g i n s . The m i l i t a r y 'Inca w a r r i o r s ' and a u n i v e r s i t y student becomes the (Ibid.:386). Other s m a l l e r towns have a l s o s t a r t e d t o s e n s a t i o n a l i z e e m b e l l i s h upon t h e i r t r a d i t i o n a l v i l l a g e and f e s t i v a l s i n order to cash i n on the t o u r i s t t r a d e . The f u r t h e r away the town i s and the more d i f f i c u l t i t i s to get t o , the h i g h e r the authenticity rating (Ibid.:387). In a c t u a l i t y , M i c h a e l ' s Guide to B o l i v i a I n t i Raimi i s the second l a r g e s t America a f t e r C a r n i v a l i n Rio de t r a d i t i o n a l Inca summer s o l s t i c e and Peru (1990) c l a i m s the f e s t i v a l i n a l l of South J a n e i r o . I t i s the festival. 2 3 c many of the 44 events are staged and modelled on western ideas of entertainment such as beauty c o n t e s t s i n which mestizo d r e s s up as Indians Clearly, girls (Ibid.). t o u r i s m has had, and continues t o have, an e f f e c t on the i n h a b i t a n t s of Cuzco and the h i g h l a n d s . The p l a c e i s i n c r e d i b l y r i c h i n a r c h a e o l o g i c a l s i t e s alone t h a t i t inconceivable that tourism.should c e a s e ; 2 4 so is furthermore, the area i s q u i t e dependent on t o u r i s m revenue. U n f o r t u n a t e l y , most of the a c t u a l revenue never reaches the area because the t o u r i s t s who are coming t o the h i g h l a n d s have g e n e r a l l y made t h e i r t r a v e l arrangements elsewhere. The monies p a i d f o r t r a n s p o r t a t i o n have gone to i n t e r n a t i o n a l and n a t i o n a l a i r c a r r i e r s ; the monies f o r accommodation have been p a i d , cases, rate, t o a t r a v e l agency who buys the rooms a t the takes a p r o f i t , and t r a n s f e r s the balance t o accounts of the i n d i v i d u a l absentee h o t e l owners. i n most 'rack' the So when the t o u r i s t e v e n t u a l l y reaches Cuzco, most t h i n g s have a l r e a d y been p a i d f o r and t h a t money does not enter i n t o the economy except through wages p a i d t o employees, taxes, local permits, and so on. The money which does enter i n t o the local economy i s the d i s c r e t i o n a r y spending of the t o u r i s t . Nunez states: T o u r i s m f i g u r e s have f l u c t u a t e d w i t h the p o l i t i c a l c l i m a t e , g u e r i l l a a c t i v i t i e s , and p e r i o d i c outbreaks of c h o l e r a . These are a l l s e r i o u s c o n s i d e r a t i o n s . As of J a n . ' 9 3 , the 1990 c h o l e r a outbreak had r e s u l t e d i n 3,482 deaths (Hudson 1993). 2 4 - t 45 . . . t h e monies expended by t o u r i s t s f o r goods and s e r v i c e s at the l o c a l , community l e v e l , i n markets and b a z a a r s , i n t a x i s and i n t a v e r n s , f o r meals and g r a t u i t i e s , may b r i n g g r e a t e r p r o s p e r i t y and w e l l - b e i n g to members of the h o s t community than they might have found p o s s i b l e by any other means i n t h e i r l i f e t i m e s (1989:274). It i s t r u e t h a t t o u r i s m has e f f e c t e d many changes i n the of the i n h a b i t a n t s , crafts. in their rituals, lives and i n t h e i r a r t s and The a n t h r o p o l o g i c a l c r i t i q u e of m o d e r n i z a t i o n would n a t u r a l l y view these changes from a n e g a t i v e a s p e c t ; the scenario, following however, section w i l l show. i s not a l l b l a c k and white as the 46 SECTION IV C u l t u r a l Commoditization; A Case Study Davydd Greenwood f i r s t p u b l i s h e d an a r t i c l e on t o u r i s m as c u l t u r a l c o m m o d i t i z a t i o n , C u l t u r e by the Pound, fieldwork, f i r s t s t a r t e d i n the e a r l y s i x t i e s , i n 1977. took p l a c e i n the town of F u e n t e r r a b i a i n the n o r t h - e a s t e r n c o r n e r of and was s p e c i f i c a l l y concentrated on a r i t u a l His festival Spain called the A l a r d e which had been performed s i n c e the 17th c e n t u r y . had been a p r i v a t e f e s t i v a l of s o r t s : a commemoration of It the time when everyone from every s o c i a l stratum had u n i t e d and w i t h s t o o d a s i x t y - n i n e day s i e g e by the F r e n c h . all Since then, the townspeople had p a r t i c i p a t e d i n the A l a r d e . been a r i t u a l I t had imbued w i t h deep meaning. "Together t h e s e people...(became) a s i n g l e s p i r i t capable of w i t h s t a n d i n g the o n s l a u g h t s of the o u t s i d e world as they once w i t h s t o o d the s i e g e of 1638" is a (Greenwood 1989:176). S p a i n , c o u n t r y of d i s t i n c t c l a s s d i f f e r e n c e s , all l i k e Peru, but f o r t h i s one day, of the c i t i z e n s of F u e n t e r r a b i a were u n i t e d i n s p i r i t and action, j u s t as they were when they h e l d o f f the French s i e g e . T h i s was an event by and f o r the c i t i z e n s of the town p l u s a few Spanish e l i t e with durable t i e s t o the community. I t had never been a t o u r i s t s p e c t a c l e performed f o r the All t h i s changed i n 1969. tourists. Through a combination of events too numerous t o e x p l a i n h e r e , the m u n i c i p a l government changed the Alarde into a public spectacle. "In s e r v i c e of simple 47 p e c u n i a r y motives, i t d e f i n e d the A l a r d e as a p u b l i c show t o ^ be performed f o r o u t s i d e r s who, because of t h e i r importance i n the town, had the r i g h t t o see economic it" (Ibid.:178). W i t h i n two summers, t h e r e was a problem i n f i n d i n g citizens who would p a r t i c i p a t e i n the A l a r d e . What had once been a r i t u a l of meaning f o r the people, belief an " . . . a f f i r m a t i o n of i n t h e i r own c u l t u r e " ( I b i d . ) had been d e c l a r e d a p u b l i c event t o a t t r a c t more t o u r i s m revenue. T h i s had v i o l a t e d the meaning of the A l a r d e f o r the townspeople, power and a u t h e n t i c i t y had been destroyed Greenwood wrote a s t r o n g condemnation of its (Ibid.:179). cultural c o m m o d i t i z a t i o n a t the end of h i s essay when i t published i n their was 1977: T r e a t i n g c u l t u r e as a n a t u r a l r e s o u r c e or a commodity over which t o u r i s t s have r i g h t s i s not simply p e r v e r s e , i t i s a v i o l a t i o n of the p e o p l e s ' c u l t u r a l r i g h t s . The second e d i t i o n of the essay was p u b l i s h e d i n 1989 w i t h a f i v e page e p i l o g u e . In the i n t e r v e n i n g y e a r s , Greenwood has m o d i f i e d h i s p o s i t i o n on c u l t u r a l commoditization through t o u r i s m . He s t a t e s t h a t on the s u r f a c e , authentic d e t e r m i n i n g what is seems simple enough: j u s t look a t t r a d i t i o n a l models and compare them t o c u r r e n t models. The changes which have o c c u r r e d can be judged t o be u n t r a d i t i o n a l and t h e r e f o r e inauthentic (Ibid.:183). i s not the c a s e , Greenwood notes t h a t t h i s , however, " . . . t h e e v a l u a t i o n of t o u r i s m cannot be accomplished by measuring the impact of t o u r i s m a g a i n s t a s t a t i c background" ( I b i d . : 1 8 2 ) . a c c e l e r a t e change, tourism. Poverty, urbanization, C e r t a i n l y , t o u r i s m may but these changes are not endemic industrialization, pollution, c i v i l war and many other f a c t o r s c u l t u r e change to (Ibid.:181). "webs of s i g n i f i c a n c e " the v i l l a g e , migration, contribute C u l t u r e s are i n a c o n t i n u a l process of change, complex to town, province, caught up i n ( I b i d . : 1 8 3 ) which extend beyond or c o u n t r y . When Greenwood had the o p p o r t u n i t y to r e a s s e s s the meaning of the A l a r d e , found t h a t i t was no longer a c u l t u r a l a f f i r m a t i o n he of h i s t o r i c a l u n i t y f o r the people of F u e n t e r r a b i a . I t had become a public spectacle, significance rights imbued " . . . w i t h contemporary as p a r t of the c o n t e s t over r e g i o n a l i n Spain" ( I b i d . : 1 8 1 ) . i t had become meaningful 1988, costumes, r i t u a l s , (Graburn 1984, (McKean 1989, to i n d i c a t e t h a t Cohen commoditization i n the area of f o l k a r t s and ceremonies, T h i s goes a g a i n s t the g r a i n of thinking but society. et a l . ) can be a r e v i t a l i z i n g f o r c e crafts, I t s meaning had changed, ample evidence i n the l i t e r a t u r e Greenwood 1989, political f o r the people w i t h i n the c o n t e x t of contemporary Basque-Spanish There i s 2 5 political festivals, 'traditional* Turner and Ash 1975, and so on. anthropological MacCannell 1984, F u e n t e r r a b i a i s a Basque town. The Basques have been t r y i n g t o g a i n independence f o r many y e a r s from S p a i n . 2 5 49 R o s s e l 1988, that et a l . ) which b a s i c a l l y s u b s c r i b e s t o the theory i f a c u l t u r a l product i s changed through e x t e r n a l forces such as t o u r i s m , i t ceases to be a u t h e n t i c and l o s e s its meaning and v a l u e . A u t h e n t i c i t y i s p e r c e i v e d d i f f e r e n t l y by everyone and i n t h a t sense i t is negotiable. It is cultural arrogance t o t h i n k t h a t the f a b r i c of e n t i r e c u l t u r e s bound by custom, language, and r e l i g i o n i s so weak t h a t i t can simply be rendered meaningless when i t s outward m a n i f e s t a t i o n s are m o d i f i e d or a l t e r e d t o cash i n on t o u r i s m revenue. I shall let David H a r r i s o n (1992:31) have the f i n a l word about c u l t u r a l commoditization i n T h i r d World c o u n t r i e s : . . . t h e r e i s something q u i t e p a t r o n i s i n g ( s i c ) i n the view t h a t the c u l t u r e of many LDCs i s weak and i n d i r e need of p r o t e c t i o n from o u t s i d e . In f a c t , the c u l t u r e s of many t o u r i s t - r e c e i v i n g s o c i e t i e s . . . m a y possess some k i n d of •deep s t r u c t u r e ' which allows them t o adapt t o new i n f l u e n c e s and yet r e t a i n —even r e i n f o r c e — t h e i r ' v i t a l i t y and coherence. Transformations and Conclusions I had done v e r y l i t t l e r e s e a r c h p r i o r to going t o Peru and my c u l t u r a l v a l u e s were f i r m l y p l a n t e d i n E u r o c e n t r i c i d e o l o g y . Soon a f t e r m y a r r i v a l , ( I began to doubt my p r e v i o u s l y u n q u e s t i o n i n g acceptance of Western s u p e r i o r i t y . T h i s s h i f t t h i n k i n g was p r e c i p i t a t e d by e x c e p t i o n a l l y well-preserved r u i n s of complex c i v i l i z a t i o n s p r e - d a t i n g the civilizations which gave r i s e to Greek temples and Roman a n t i q u i t i e s . were e x q u i s i t e artifacts from even e a r l i e r in civilizations There 50 contemporaneous w i t h the Egyptian pyramid b u i l d e r s . For me, t h i s was a new r e a l i t y . Although I had read about t h e s e a n c i e n t c u l t u r e s and s t r u c t u r e s as an a d u l t , t h a t knowledge had not been v a l i d a t e d through any h i g h s c h o o l h i s t o r y New World peoples class. as the s k i l l e d b u i l d e r s of these i n c r e d i b l e a r c h i t e c t u r a l wonders, on par w i t h O l d World a n t i q u i t i e s , had not been i n t e g r a t e d i n t o my knowledge base by our e d u c a t i o n a l system. To a c t u a l l y see, t o u c h , and walk on these ancient r u i n s and t o see the s o p h i s t i c a t e d a r t i f a c t s made by the a n c i e n t craftsmen changed my p e r c e p t i o n s and a t t i t u d e s toward the w o r l d f o r e v e r and towards our E u r o c e n t r i c e d u c a t i o n a l system t h a t our e n t i r e c u l t u r e i s founded on. Turner and Ash make the f o l l o w i n g statement about t o u r i s m which confirms my experience: I t s t i l l has the p o t e n t i a l to educate, s i n c e , i n i t s h i g h e s t form, i t seeks t o view and understand the o r i g i n s and development of c u l t u r e s . Anecdotes of t o u r i s t c r a s s n e s s are numerous but t h e r e are a l s o t o u r i s t s who do e x p e r i e n c e new f e e l i n g s —who come t o some new r e a l i z a t i o n of t h e i r r e l a t i o n to h i s t o r y when v i s i t i n g c u l t u r e s other than t h e i r own, or o b s e r v i n g the monuments of p a s t c u l t u r e s . Anew awareness of the c o m p l e x i t i e s and t r o u b l e s of p a s t or f o r e i g n c u l t u r e s may c o n c e i v a b l y t u r n the t o u r i s t s ' thoughts back to the c o m p l e x i t i e s of h i s own c u l t u r e (1975:149). I believe possible I have shown through anecdotal evidence t h a t i t f o r the t o u r i s t s e l f is to experience change through e t h n i c t o u r i s m . I have a l s o demonstrated through evidence from the f i e l d how indigenous people may respond t o t o u r i s m by commoditizing c e r t a i n aspects of t h e i r c u l t u r e but I do not 51 b e l i e v e t h a t t h i s response fundamentally changes the self. native In l i b e r a l c i r c l e s i t i s f a s h i o n a b l e t o view the natives as h a p l e s s v i c t i m s of e x p l o i t a t i o n by the t o u r i s t i n d u s t r y , however, this i s not so because the n a t i v e i s on home ground and o f t e n makes use of t h a t f a c t (van den Berghe 1980:379). Moreover, as L o t h a r Nettekoven p o i n t s o u t , i n a c t u a l i t y there are fewer encounters between t o u r i s t s and n a t i v e s than is g e n e r a l l y assumed and t h a t the i n t e r a c t i o n between the two one of the l e a s t important i n f l u e n c e s (1976:135). While i t is i n c u l t u r e change i s t r u e t h a t commoditization of indigenous c u l t u r e s does occur i n response t o t o u r i s m , i t does not i n v a l i d a t e a c u l t u r e t h a t i s hundreds, i f not thousands, of y e a r s o l d . "We m u s t . . . r e s i s t the temptation t o view indigenous peoples as unable t o adapt and t o a s s i m i l a t e t o a changing w o r l d . We cannot keep them as p r i s t i n e p e t s on anthropological reservations" (Nunez 1989:274). These c u l t u r e s have been i n a c o n t i n u a l process of change throughout t h e i r e n t i r e e x i s t e n c e and t h i s process of change w i l l c o n t i n u e l o n g as they continue t o Eventually, change. as exist. the power s t r u c t u r e i n P e r u v i a n s o c i e t y will In l e s s than 500 y e a r s , the mestizo c l a s s has come i n t o b e i n g and now t o t a l s approximately h a l f of the p o p u l a t i o n . With the f o r c e s of g l o b a l i z a t i o n , i t w i l l take even l e s s time f o r f u r t h e r changes t o come about. A l s o , from w i t h i n the country are t r y i n g t o e f f e c t change. forces Between 52 1879 and 1965 t h e r e have been 32 Indian r e v o l t s 1993) , 26 but d u r i n g my t r i p , far greater danger. 2 7 (Hudson the Sendero Luminoso p r e s e n t e d a Both German and Japanese t o u r i s t groups had u n f o r t u n a t e encounters w i t h them and s t r o n g measures were b e i n g taken t o keep e v e r y t h i n g q u i e t so t h a t t o u r i s m would not s u f f e r as a r e s u l t . motion, it is W i t h , t h e s e i n t e r n a l and e x t e r n a l f o r c e s i n e v i t a b l e t h a t e v e n t u a l l y profound s o c i e t a l changes are going to take p l a c e . At some p o i n t i n t h e i r history, future the Indians may even be i n a p o s i t i o n of power t o c o n t r o l those a s p e c t s of t o u r i s m which i n f l u e n c e t h e i r and, in in effect, lives become l i k e the Amish of P e n n s y l v a n i a . 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