Hillary Trail
Waitakere Ranges Regional Park
09 366 2000
www.arc.govt.nz
1
Introduction
The Hillary Trail is a spectacular multi-day
tramping trip through native forest and along
the wild coast of the Waitakere Ranges
Regional Park. Beginning and ending not
far from metropolitan Auckland, this selfguided 70km trail is a challenging wilderness
adventure designed to introduce families and
young people, properly prepared, to the joys
of multi-day tramping.
The ranges are alive with history and the trail
links heritage areas connected with Te Kawerau
a Maki and the decades of kauri logging. It
passes through a wide range of environments –
regenerating rainforest, stands of mature kauri,
coastal forest, rocky shores and black-sand
beaches. And it seems as if around every corner
there is another magnificent view.
The inspiration behind the trail is New Zealand’s
great mountaineer, explorer and loved citizen, Sir
Edmund Hillary, who came to the rugged hills
and beaches of the Waitakere Ranges to plan and
prepare for his great expeditions. In taking on
the challenge of the four-day journey, trampers
embark on their own expedition of self-discovery
and adventure.
Completing the trail will be a test of determination,
for many, a personal Everest.
2
The trail was developed through the joint effort
of the elected members, rangers and officers of
the Auckland Regional Council between 2005
and 2009. The ARC sees the creation of the
Hillary Trail as an important legacy for the people
of Auckland and New Zealand.
The ARC thanks the Hillary family for the use of
Sir Edmund Hillary’s name.
The Hillary connection
The Hillary family has links
with the Waitakere Ranges
going back to 1925, when
Sir Edmund’s father-in-law,
Jim Rose, built a bach at
Anawhata. Since then, five
generations have come to
the west coast to walk and
explore, to dream and to
refresh their spirits. In 1981
Jim Rose wrote, ‘My family
look forward to the time when
we will be able to walk from
Huia to Muriwai on public
walking tracks like the old time
Maori could do.’ With the Hillary
Trail it is possible to do just that.
Find out more about the Hillary Trail:
• Visit the ARC website www.arc.govt.nz
• Phone the ARC on 09 366 2000 for
information and bookings
• Talk to an ARC park ranger
• Drop into the Arataki Visitor Centre, talk to
the staff and see the displays
3
What to expect
The Hillary Trail is a challenging four day/three
night hike. You can complete the trail at any time
of year although, in winter, the short days, cool
weather and muddy tracks will make the hike
much more demanding.
It is likely to rain for at least part of your trip.
Many tracks will be steep, rutted, ‘rooty’ and
slippery, and you may be up to your ankles in mud.
There are unbridged stream crossings which may
include water above the knee. You can experience
a variety of surfaces, including gravel and steps,
and you will also have to walk for short periods on
public roads, some of them busy.
The fitter you are, the more you will enjoy the
experience. The days are long. You will be climbing
up and down hills and walking up to 27km in a
day. You will have to carry a heavy pack with your
tent, sleeping bag, extra clothing and four days’
worth of food.
The day from Craw Campground to
Muriwai Beach is long and hard. In the
future we will have a campground to break this
leg of the journey.
Parts of the Te Henga Walkway are steep and
slippery. Beyond O’Neill Bay there is no shelter
from the elements for about 6.5km, and nowhere
to go if you get into difficulty. In winter, this leg is
more difficult to complete during daylight hours. If
you are not fit enough for a very long, tough day,
if the weather is wet or windy, or if you are likely
to run short of daylight, you should not attempt
it. Instead finish at one of the pick-up points
marked on the map.
The Te Henga Walkway may be closed for lambing
between 1 August and 1 October.
Go to www.doc.govt.nz for more information.
Follow me...
The walking times in the track notes are
approximate. They are dependent on track
conditions, your fitness, group size and weather
conditions. They do not include time to take the
suggested side trips or to have long breaks.
You’ll know you’re on the Hillary
Trail if you’re following track
markers like the one shown
here. Markers are positioned at
intervals along the trail and at track
intersections.
Although the official gateway to the Hillary Trail
is the Arataki Visitor Centre and the trail ends at
Muriwai Beach, you can vary the route and the
number of days it takes according to transport,
fitness and weather.
Road walking: extreme care is essential
when walking on roads. High visibility
clothing and reflective material on packs is
strongly recommended.
Arataki Visitor
Centre
Karamatura
Campground
Whatipu
Pararaha
Karekare
Campground
Piha
Te Henga/
Bethells Beach
Craw
Campground
Muriwai
Beach
400m
400m
400
350
300m
300m
300
250
200m
200m
Series2
200
150
100m
100m
100
50
0m
0
4
8
5.8
6.7
0.48
0.92
1.36
1.82
2.25
2.69
3.13
3.58
4.02
4.47
4.92
5.35 6.23 7.12
7.57
12
16
20
24
28
31
35
39
43
47
51
55
59
63
66
8.45
8.91
9.35
9.78
10.2
10.7
11.1
11.6 12.4
12.9
13.3
13.8
14.2
14.7
15.1
15.5 16.4
16.9
17.3
17.8
18.2
18.6
19.1
19.5 20.4
20.9
21.3
21.7
22.2
22.6
23.1
23.5 24.4
24.8
25.3
25.7
26.2
26.6
27.1
27.5 28.4
28.8
29.3
29.7
30.2
30.6 31.5
31.9
32.4
32.8
33.3
33.7
34.1
34.6 35.5
35.9
36.4
36.8
37.3
37.7
38.1
38.6 39.5
39.9
40.4
40.8
41.2
41.7
42.1
42.6 43.5
43.9
44.3
44.8
45.2
45.7
46.1
46.6 47.4
47.9
48.3
48.8
49.2
49.7
50.1
50.5 51.4
51.9
52.3
52.8
53.2
53.6
54.1
54.5 55.4
55.9
56.3
56.7
57.2
57.6
58.1
58.5 59.4
59.8
60.3
60.7
61.2
61.6
62.1
62.5 63.4
63.8
64.3
64.7
65.2
65.6 66.5
66.9
67.4
67.8
68.3
68.7
69.2
10km
20km
30km
40km
50km
60km
0m
70km
5
What to take
You will need to be largely self-sufficient for four
days (some supplies are available on day three at
the Piha Store). Quality clothing and footwear, and
a comfortable backpack, are important. It doesn’t
matter how warm the weather is the day you leave,
or how good the forecast, the following equipment
is essential.
This booklet and information from the ARC website
Your camping permit
Waitakere Ranges Regional Park Recreation Map
– available from the Arataki Visitor Centre
A hiking pack with a waterproof liner inside
it (liners that double as survival bags can be
bought at outdoors shops)
Clothing – warm, quick-drying clothes made of
modern synthetic materials or wool. You will
need one set to walk in and another to change
into when you get to the campground. You may
not be able to dry wet clothing overnight.
Boots – sturdy, comfortable walking boots that
have been well broken in
Raincoat – fully waterproof with hood
Waterproof over-trousers (optional)
Swimwear and small towel (optional)
Sun hat and sunglasses
Cellphone and camera (optional)
Tent, sleeping bag, sleeping mat
Torch with spare batteries
Cooking stove, lighter or matches in a waterproof
container, and fuel
Cooking pot and pot scrubber for cleaning up
Eating and drinking utensils
Large water bottle
Toiletries – including toilet paper
First-aid kit – including sunscreen, insect
repellent, medication, blister kit, bandages, as
well as wasp-sting treatment if you are allergic
Survival kit – including survival blanket, whistle,
paper and pencil and spare food
Rubbish bag - please take your rubbish (including
sanitary products) with you.
6
Food – high in energy value, light in weight and
quick to cook
Water treatment – chemical purification or water
filter, or extra fuel for boiling
Personal EPIRB – Emergency Position Indicating
Radio Beacon (optional).
In autumn, winter and spring you will also need to
take more layers of warm clothing, a beanie and
mittens or gloves, waterproof over-trousers and a
warmer sleeping bag.
Accommodation
There are three ARC campgrounds designated for
the Hillary Trail: Karamatura, Pararaha and Craw.
They are basic campgrounds with no showers or
cooking facilities. Sites cost $5 per adult per night
and must be booked and paid for before starting
the trail.
Campground
Water supply
Toilets
Maximum group
booking
Karamatura
Stream
Composting
10
Pararaha
Stream
Composting
10
Craw
Roof
Vault
10
Important note: Stream and roof water must be
boiled, chemically treated or filtered before drinking.
Other accommodation options
There are other options to shorten your days or
take alternate routes. The ARC has lodges, two
baches and four other campgrounds along the
trail. There are more structured campgrounds
at Piha and Muriwai Beach, and private lodges,
campgrounds and B&Bs at settlements close to
the route.
Go to www.arc.govt.nz/hillarytrail for alternative
accommodation options and links, inquire at
the Arataki Visitor Centre or phone the ARC on
09 366 2000.
More booking information on page 35
7
25
Climate statistics from Arataki Visitor Centre
Safety
9
8
7
6
15
5
4
10
3
2
5
1
0
Jan
Feb Mar Apr May Jun
Mean daily rainfall in mm
Jul
Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec
Mean daily high in oC
Mean daily low in oC
Weather
The Waitakere Ranges are an elevated plateau with
a temperate climate. Parts of the forest receive
over 50 per cent more rain than central Auckland.
In winter there is a high chance of rain every day.
The weather can change quickly. The coastal
sections of the trail are exposed to prevailing
westerly winds, especially the Te Henga Walkway.
The best times of year to walk the trail are summer
and early autumn, when rainfall is lower and the
tracks are less muddy. In warm weather, however,
take care to drink plenty of water to avoid
dehydration.
Daylight
Each day on the Hillary Trail you will have to
cover long distances on sometimes rough trails.
Be realistic about your walking speed and set out
early enough to get to the campground before
dark. This is particularly important in winter when
daylight hours are shorter.
Day four, from Craw to Muriwai, is
difficult to complete during winter daylight
hours. Seriously consider the alternative finish at
Swanson (p34).
8
0
Millimetres
Degrees Celcius
20
Your safety on the Hillary Trail is your responsibility.
Rangers do not patrol the tracks or the campgrounds
at specific times.
Leave details of your trip (return date and time,
planned route and party member names) with a
responsible person and check in with them when
you return.
If a serious illness or injury occurs, dial the 111
emergency number. Large parts of the ranges have
no cellphone coverage – if you can’t get reception,
try the nearest high point or send for help.
Wasps may be a problem in late summer/autumn.
If allergic, bring antihistamines.
Stream crossings
There are a number of unbridged stream crossings
on the Hillary Trail. If it is raining and you come
to a river that is running high and fast, do not
attempt to cross. Just wait. The rivers are steep
and short – they rise quickly when it rains and
drop quickly when it stops.
Swimming
West coast beaches have tempting surf but the
currents can be dangerous. Swim only where
lifeguards are patrolling. Always swim between
the flags.
There are five surf lifesaving clubs: Karekare, Piha,
United North Piha, Bethells Beach and Muriwai
Beach. They patrol beaches on weekends and
public holidays from Labour Weekend to Easter or
Anzac weekend (Piha). There are weekday patrols
over the peak summer period. There are no patrols
in winter.
For more details of surf lifesaving hours go to
www.arc.govt.nz/hillarytrail
9
Caring for Waitakere Ranges
Regional Park
Natural history
• Protect plants and animals. Do not damage or
remove vegetation.
As it takes its L-shaped path across the Waitakere
Ranges, the Hillary Trail crosses the eastern slopes
of a massive volcano that first erupted from the
sea floor 22 million years ago. At over 3000 metres
high and about 50km in diameter, the Waitakere
Volcano was one of New Zealand’s largest ever
volcanoes.
• Dogs are not allowed on the Hillary Trail and at ARC
campgrounds. Day walkers may be able to take
dogs on a lead on some tracks that make up the
trail. Check the ARC website.
• No open fires (gas cookers only).
• Keep to the tracks. Stay on the tracks to minimise
damage to fragile environments.
• Respect cultural sites. There are many sites of
cultural and historic significance, particularly to
tangata whenua.
• Remove your rubbish. This is a rubbish-free park.
• Leave gates as you find them.
• Be considerate of others. Share the park. If you
notice any damage to park infrastructure, please
report it.
• Bury toilet waste. In areas without toilets, bury
your toilet waste in a shallow hole well away from
waterways and tracks.
Toitu te whenua – leave the land undisturbed.
Kauri dieback
Kauri dieback, also known as Phytophthora taxon
Agathis, is a plant pathogen that kills kauri. You
may see affected trees along the route. People may
spread the disease if they disturb the soil
around affected trees. You can help to
stop kauri dieback taking hold.
• Thoroughly clean boots and
camping equipment before and after
visiting the Waitakere Ranges or any
other area with kauri forest.
• Keep to defined tracks.
• Brush and spray boots and walking
poles at stations along the trail.
10
Geology
The black sand found on the west coast is mostly
volcanic sand from eruptions in the central North
Island, Taranaki and swept down the Waikato River
and north up the coast. This magnetic iron sand
has built up into extensive dune systems with
lakes, swampland and forests.
Flora
The plant life of the Waitakere Ranges is
outstandingly significant. There are large areas
of intact coastal forest, and some important
remnants of original-growth kauri forest. Where
logging has occurred, the ranges offer a fascinating
demonstration of regeneration in action.
The park is home to some 550 species of native
plants, including more than two-thirds of New
Zealand’s fern species. Many are rare, endangered
or regionally threatened plants. Some species are
unique to the area.
Fauna
The forests and caves of the Waitakere Ranges
are home to a wide range of invertebrates,
including hundreds of insect species. Among the
invertebrates are the Auckland cave weta and the
carnivorous, regionally threatened large kauri snail.
The ranges are a stronghold for the nationally
threatened Hochstetter’s frog, as well as five
species of native skinks and geckos. There are 11
species of native freshwater fish.
11
Robin
Fernbird
Grey warbler
Green gecko
More than 50 species of native birds
live in the park, many of them rare
or endangered. At Cascade Kauri,
hihi (stitchbirds), whiteheads, North
Island robins and kokako have been
reintroduced by the Ark in the Park
project. Tui, kereru, grey warblers,
silvereyes, fantails and tomtits are a
common sight in the forest, and if
you are lucky you may spot a ruru
(morepork), kingfisher or shining
cuckoo.
The arrival of European settlers
in the early 19th century was a
turning point for the iwi. Pakeha
diseases took a devastating toll, as
did fierce battles with Ngapuhi armed
with muskets. Much of their ancestral land
was sold, but Te Kawerau a Maki continued
to live in a traditional way on ‘Native
Reserves’ at Piha, Te Henga and Muriwai until
the 20th century. Their history and relationships
are represented in carved pou whenua around the
park.
Coastal, wading and wetland
bird species are well represented
–
fernbirds,
pukeko,
variable
oystercatchers,
bitterns,
New
Zealand and banded dotterels,
shags, Caspian and white-fronted
terns and little blue penguins have
all found the wild west coast to
their liking.
When Europeans settled in Auckland in the 1830s
they needed timber for building, and the tall,
straight kauri of the Waitakere Ranges were an
obvious source. The most easily accessible trees
were quickly felled, then the more remote trees
of the interior were flushed down rivers to mills
near the coast. To do this, bushmen built perhaps
a hundred driving and holding dams. The timber
millers also built 66km of tram tracks to transport
logs and sawn timber. In places, the remnants of
both are still visible
Check out the Arataki Visitor Centre
book store for a selection of titles
on the flora and fauna found in the
Waitakere Ranges.
Cultural history
Te Kawerau a Maki are the people of the Waitakere
Ranges. They have associations with the land
between the Manukau Harbour and Muriwai going
back 700 to 800 years. To Te Kawerau a Maki, the
Waitakere Ranges form part of Te Wao nui o Tiriwa
(the great forest of Tiriwa) that once covered all
of west Auckland. The western coastline that the
trail follows was known collectively as Hikurangi.
Ngati Whatua also have an ancestral relationship
with the northern section of the trail, between Te
Waharoa and Muriwai.
The iwi had villages and fortified pa up and down
the coast and in the forest. They also cleared large
areas to allow cultivation and make it easier to
defend their pa. In places, the Hillary Trail follows
old routes used by Maori.
12
By the late 1920s only a few large stands of
mature kauri remained. Farmers had cleared
land in the river mouths for pasture, and gum
diggers set fire to manuka forest to make it
easier to dig up valuable kauri gum. From 1905,
five water-supply dams were built in the ranges,
drowning 160 hectares of bush while allowing the
surrounding forest catchments to regenerate from
cut over forest and pasture. In 1941 the Auckland
Centennial Memorial Park was formed at the wish
of Auckland’s citizens, to celebrate the centenary
of European settlement in Auckland.
The remnants of original-growth forest, the
recovering forest and large sections of coast are
today protected as parkland. Formed over more
than 60 years and administered today by the
Auckland Regional Council, Waitakere Ranges
Regional Park covers 17,000 hectares and attracts
around 2.5 million visitors each year to blacksand beaches, historic sites, beautiful rivers and
waterfalls – and more than 140 walking tracks.
13
Track notes
Hillary Trail all
complete the
to
se
oo
ch
n
n pace. The
You ca
, or at your ow
ns
io
ct
se
in
,
at once
tions indicate
-day descrip
by
yda
g
in
in four days,
follow
e Hillary Trail
th
do
n
ca
u
the way.
how yo
mpgrounds on
ca
C
R
A
at
g
stayin
Day One
Arataki Visitor Centre to Karamatura
11km 4–5 hours
The Arataki Visitor Centre is the gateway to the
Hillary Trail. You will see magnificent pou whenua
and carvings representing Te Kawerau a Maki
ancestors. Stop in to see displays about the trail
and talk to staff and get the latest information on
weather and track conditions.
From the lookout above the centre, start the Hillary
Trail by descending Slip Track into the Nihotupu
valley. Along the way you will cross the Nihotupu
Tramline which provides access for pipeline
maintenance and carrying visitors on the Rain
Forest Express tram.
Near the bottom of the valley turn right onto
Pipeline Track. Beyond the bridge across Nihotupu
Stream turn right onto Lower Nihotupu Dam Road
and continue along until the road stops. Take
Hamilton Track on your right. Soon you will come
to a section of dense nikau, the world’s southernmost growing palm.
You will climb gently around a hillside and catch
sight of, on a ridge to the right, large kauri soaring
above the canopy. Steep drops near the waterfall
require care before arriving on the ridge with its
panoramic views of the remote interior of the
Waitakere Ranges.
The Hillary Trail
Hillary Trail
ARC Parkland
Road walking
Other Public Open Space
Bus stops
Beach walking
Beach and wetlands
Emergency telephone
Stage 2 track
Private land
Store / takeaway
Public transport option*
Hillary Trail campground
Toilets
dots: change of track name
dots: change of road name
Other campground
At high tide, walk along Huia Road with care, take the Karamatura Farm driveway. Follow the markers
from the barn to the Karamatura Campground.
*This option indicates our recommended tramping route for access to and from public transport at Titirangi and Swanson.
The track now becomes rougher and muddier, and
progress may be slow. Continue on Hamilton Track
past its junction with Summit Track, until you
reach Crusher Pipe Track, then take Smiths Road.
The kauri here are among the few large trees in the
ranges that escaped the saws of the bushmen. At
the bottom of the hill a bridge takes you over the
upper reaches of the Lower Huia Reservoir.
Beyond the bridge, take Huia Dam Road. A couple
of ups and downs will bring you to the dam.
Completed in 1971, it is the newest water-supply
dam in the ranges. Walk down the sealed road
towards the harbour. There are toilets on the left
at the bottom of the dam face.
At the one-way bridge on the edge of Huia Bay the
Hillary Trail continues south along the shoreline
14
15
Nihotupu Stream
to the entrance of Karamatura valley. (If the tide
is high, walk on the road, but take care, turn up
the driveway off Huia Road marked Karamatura
Farm, when you get to the barn at the top of the
driveway look for markers indicating the route to
the Karamatura campground.)
The shore route follows the high-tide level to the
outlet of the Karamatura Stream. Look out for a
hole in the rock at Haleys Point where the chain of
a log boom was fixed. Before the bridge was built,
people crossing the stream at high tide scampered
across the bobbing logs.
Cross Karamatura Stream and head inland on
a wide grass path. This is part of the Manukau
Timber Company Heritage Trail. Follow the path to
the road and the entrance to Karamatura.
Kings of the forest
Side trip
Growing up to 50m tall and living for up to
2000 years, kauri are among the largest and
oldest trees in the world. Their timber is
straight, strong and knot-free. Te Kawerau a
Maki made carvings and canoes from these
giants, and Europeans used them for ships
masts and housing. Maori valued kauri gum as
a component in the ink for ta moko (tattooing)
and as chewing gum, while Europeans used it
to make ornaments, jewellery, varnish, paint
and linoleum.
Huia Settlers Museum. Opposite entrance to
Karamatura Valley. An excellent communityowned museum of local history. It is open
1.30pm to 4.30pm Saturday and Sunday.
Kauri grow on ridges and north-facing slopes.
Today, after the destruction caused by kauri
timber milling, you will see the conical shapes
of young kauri (rickers) rising above the canopy.
Here you can visit the Huia Settlers Museum if it’s
open, and see the mast of the Orpheus outside.
From the museum, cross the road and begin the
walk up the Karamatura valley. At the road end car
park, check out the pou and follow the markers to
the Karamatura Campground.
16
Kauri on Hamilton Track
17
Day 3 cont.
DAY 1
•Comans Track
•Mercer Bay Loop
Walk
•Log Race Road
•Te Ahuahu Road
•Piha Road
•Ussher Track
•Winstone Track
•Kauri Grove Track
•Connect Track
•Knutzen Track
•Kitekite Track
•Glen Esk Road
•Seaview Road
•Piha Beach
•Marawhara Walk
•White Track
•Anawhata Road
ARATAKI
•Arataki Lookout
Track
•Slip Track
•Pipeline Track
•Lower Nihotupu
Dam Road
•Hamilton Track
•Smiths Road
•Huia Dam Road
•Huia Bay foreshore
•MTC Heritage Trail
•Karamatura Loop
Walk
Muriwai
KARAMATURA
CAMPGROUND
Day 1 alternate option
via public transport
CRAW CAMPGROUND
Day 4
Start from
Titirangi Scenic
Drive
CRAW CAMPGROUND
•Anawhata Road
•Kuataika Track
•Houghton Track
•Lake Wainamu Track
•Te Henga Walkway
•Constable Road
•Oaia Road
•Edwin Mitchelson
Track
•Lookout Track
•Quarry Track
•Waitea Road
•Takapu Refuge Walk
•Exhibition Drive
•Pipeline Road
•Pipeline Track
Meets the trail at
the intersection
with the Slip Track
(note this bypasses
Arataki)
DAY 2
KARAMATURA
CAMPGROUND
•Karamatura Loop
Walk
•Karamatura Track
•Donald McLean
Track
•Puriri Ridge Track
•Omanawanui Track
•Gibbons Track
•Muir Track
MOTUTARA ROAD,
MURIWAI
Day 4 alternate public
transport and winter
option
CRAW CAMPGROUND
•Anawhata Road
•Kuataika Track
•Smyth Ridge Track
•Long Road Track
•Upper Kauri Track
•Auckland City Walk
•Anderson Southern
Access
•Peripatus Track
•Swanson Pipeline
Track
•Tram Valley Road
•Swanson Road
PARARAHA
CAMPGROUND
Day 3
PARARAHA
CAMPGROUND
•Pararaha Valley
Track
•Buck Taylor Track
•Zion Hill Track
•Pohutukawa Glade
Walk
•Karekare &
Watchmans Rds
*
18
*This option indicates our recommended tramping route for access to and from public transport at Titirangi and Swanson.
SWANSON TRAIN OR
BUS STATION
19
Day One alternative start at Titirangi –
public transport option
This option begins at Titirangi Village, which is
accessible by public transport. It bypasses the
Arataki Visitor Centre, and it adds 6km to the
journey. The first Hillary Trail marker post will
appear at Exhibition Drive.
Go west from Titirangi on Titirangi Road, passing
historic Lopdell House and looking ahead for
the Three Bush Markers sculpture on the traffic
roundabout. The artwork is inspired by fungus,
lichen and algal forms.
Day Two
Karamatura to Pararaha
14.5km 8-9 hours
The day starts on the Karamatura Loop Walk with
a stretch of gravel path through lush growth beside
the Karamatura Stream to the junction with Tom
Thumb Track. From here it is uphill on Karamatura
Track to Karamatura Forks. which marks the end
of the climbing – for now. Turn left onto Donald
McLean Track. At the junction, with Puriri Ridge
Track, turn right. Alternatively, make the side trip
to the 389m summit of Mt Donald McLean.
Walk along Scenic Drive to the intersection with
Woodlands Park Road, the car park next to the
large concrete filter station marks the start of
Exhibition Drive and the Hillary Trail.
At the end of Exhibition Drive turn onto Pipeline
Road. After 2km turn right for a short section
of Pipeline Track, before rejoining the main
description at the junction with Slip Track.
The Hillary Trail
Hillary Trail
Other Public Open Space
Other campground
Road walking
Beach and wetlands
Emergency telephone
Beach walking
Private land
Store / takeaway
ARC Parkland
Hillary Trail campground
Toilets
dots: change of track name
dots: change of road name
Water for Auckland
The first temporary dams in the Waitakere
Ranges were completed in 1902 and the water
sent to Western Springs in a cast-iron pipe. Over
the next 70 years tramways were laid, workers’
camps built, quarries dug and rock blasted –
and five permanent dams were constructed
and five valleys flooded. Today these reservoirs
supply a quarter of Auckland’s bulk water.
20
21
The Gibbons family
Pick your way down to Whatipu Road on Puriri
Ridge Track. There are views to the remote
Whatipu valley and the mouth of the Manukau
Harbour, scene of the Orpheus disaster. You will
hear and smell the sea.
The Gibbons were pioneers of timber milling.
They set up their first mill at Huia in 1853 and,
later, members of the
family had busy mills at
Whatipu and Pararaha,
with tramways linking
to their wharf at
Paratutai. In the late
19th century Whatipu was a milling village,
but when the mill closed down the Gibbons
family started taking in guests at their Whatipu
homestead. The 1870 homestead is now part
of the Whatipu Lodge complex, including a
campground, and a bach, on the Waitakere
Ranges Regional Park.
Shortly after passing the Kura Track turnoff, cross
Whatipu Road. Omanawanui Track crosses two
distinct high points, but the breathtaking views
of Whatipu, South Head, the harbour, and beyond
make the exertion worthwhile.
There is a good opportunity to refill your water
bottles at the tap by the public toilet. The water
here goes through the lodge’s UV treatment
system, so it is safe to drink.
Puriri Ridge Track
Omanawanui Track finishes at the mouth of the
valley near historic Whatipu Lodge. Part way
down the final descent there is an optional side
trip on Signal House Track to the site of the
harbourmaster’s house.
The wreck of the Orpheus
New Zealand’s worst maritime disaster
occurred in 1863, when HMS Orpheus, a
steam corvette carrying British troops for the
New Zealand Wars foundered on the Manukau
Harbour bar. As many as 189 men and boys
died in the tragedy – although some of the
missing may have survived but in the mayhem
taken their chance to desert.
22
From the car park follow the track beside
the campground fence in the direction of the
headland. Cross a footbridge, then step onto the
hillside and start up Gibbons Track. There are two
points where uninterrupted views of Whatipu and
the cliffs are dizzying. Less than a hundred years
ago, most of the swamps, salt meadows and sand
fields below you were under the sea. Home to
many unusual plant and bird species, the beach is
now a scientific reserve.
At the next intersection take Muir Track which
drops steeply into the Pararaha Valley. Halfway
down it crosses an exposed rocky bluff – take
your time and make sure of each foot placement.
The Pararaha campground is at the edge of the
Pararaha Stream in the lee of the hill you have just
descended. In the gorge around the campground
the volcanic conglomerate rock of the ranges is on
clear display.
23
Day Three
Pararaha to Craw Campground
17km 8-9 hours
Follow Pararaha Valley Track towards the sea for
five minutes before wading across the stream. The
track continues through harakeke (flax) fields and
beside the ever-changing wetland. You may also
be able to identify raupo, rush and various sedges.
Bird life includes bitterns, fernbirds and pukeko.
A section of boardwalk brings you to your turnoff
onto Buck Taylor Track. Make a short but steep
ascent before turning onto Zion Hill Track. This is a
long uphill track through a variety of forest habitats
including kauri. Branch off onto Zion Ridge Track.
Stay on Zion Hill Track and begin the descent to
Karekare.
Ninepin Rock at Whatipu
Side trips
Mt Donald McLean. Adds 1.5km. Extensive
views in all directions. Walk for a couple of
minutes to a car park then follow signs to the
lookout. Look out for Waitakere rock koromiko,
a hebe that is found only in the ranges. Its
stems and new leaves are maroon, its flowers
white tinged with purple.
Signal House Track. Short track to the wild and
windy site of Captain Thomas Wing’s house,
which had to be chained to the hillside. Wing,
the harbourmaster and pilot, lived here with
his family in the mid 19th century. When a ship
approached the bar he would race down the
hill then up iron ladders to the signal mast on
Paratutai Island to send instructions.
24
At the grassy clearing at the end of the track, turn
right and stroll along Pohutukawa Glade Walk to
the road. The trees in the glade are fine examples
of the spreading habit of pohutukawa.
You will see the main Karekare car park on your
left, across the stream. Here you will find toilets
and a lovely pou. The isolated valley was farmed
until the 1880s, when the area was given over to
timber milling.
At the road you have the option of turning right up
Lone Kauri Road for a short side trip to Karekare
Falls, which would make an excellent spot for a
break. Otherwise turn left onto the road, cross
bridge, and shortly after left again into Watchmans
Road. Look out for historic Winchelsea House,
originally the mill manager’s house, which became
a boarding house for tourists. Comans Track starts
at the end of the road.
Snaking up the top edge of the cliffs, Comans
Track has dramatic views south down the coast
over the rocky spine of the Watchman to Whatipu,
and north into remote Mercer Bay. There are many
examples of rare native plants along this track.
At the intersection with Ahu Ahu Track, turn left.
Another junction soon appears. Take the left option
25
carried out identifying radio stars. Walk along Log
Race Road and Te Ahuahu Road. At the northern
end turn right onto Piha Road, a busy road with
fast-moving traffic. Take great care crossing the
road and stay on the grass verge where possible.
In about 15 minutes you will be able to step off
Piha Road and onto Ussher Track. Follow this down
to Winstone Track and onto Ussher Cross. Here
your journey continues on Kauri Grove Track. The
track crosses Glen Esk Stream above the Kitekite
Falls. Downstream of the crossing are several
plunge pools with dramatic views over the forest.
This was the site of the Glen Esk Dam.
On the other side of the stream turn left onto
Connect Track, which descends through kauri and
tanekaha. At the bottom, turn left onto Knutzen
Track (named after the Danish Piha mill manager)
and pass the base of the impressive Kitekite Falls.
At the falls, cross the stream and make your way
down the valley, to join Kitekite Track.
The Hillary Trail
Hillary Trail
Beach and wetlands
Surf lifesaving club
Road walking
Private land
Store / takeaway
Beach walking
Hillary Trail campground
Cafe
ARC Parkland
Other campground
Toilets
Other Public Open Space
Emergency telephone
dots: change of track name
dots: change of road name
again, the Mercer Bay Loop Walk, and follow
this to Te Ahua Point, once a very significant Te
Kawerau a Maki pa site. There is a view of the
highest cliffs in the Auckland region, remnants of
lava flows from the Waitakere Volcano.
After the point a cliff-edge track with views as far
north as Muriwai and the Kaipara Harbour takes
you up into the bush and then to the end of Log
Race Road. This was the site of a WW2 radar
station where some famous investigations were
26
In the car park at the end of Glen Esk Road there
are toilets and a drinking fountain. This area was
the location of the Piha sawmill with a small
village with single men’s quarters, mill houses for
families, a store, a school and a hall.
An expensive mistake
At the top of Kitekite Falls, U-shaped notches
reveal where the Glen Esk Dam was set into the
rock. Ebenezer Gibbons built the dam in 1911
to drive logs to the Piha Mill, from where sawn
timber was taken on the coastal tramline to the
wharf at Whatipu. The dam released logs only
once, as the 40m drop followed by a narrow
gorge saw more logs destroyed or jammed than
were retrieved. After that, it was used to send
a torrent of water into the Glen Esk Stream to
flush waiting logs down to the mill.
27
will take you through to Les Waygood Park and
onto the road. Turn right and go over the bridge
to the start of Marawhara Walk which leads to
the White Track, this is part of the old tramway
route which brought logs from Anawhata to the
Piha Mill.
The track passes through a beautiful nikau grove
and climbs to meet Anawhata Road.
Wetland from Buck Taylor Track
Walk down Glen Esk Road and turn right over the
bridge into Seaview Road. Along here, the Piha
Store sells provisions. It is open until early evening.
Next to the store is the Piha Café. Here you can
hire a locker to keep your gear safe while you
head to the beach for a swim between the flags.
You are also welcome to refill your water bottle
with treated water from the café tap. Post your
postcards at the Piha Post Office. The history of
this community-run Post Office includes receiving
the telegram that told the Rose family that Ed
Hillary had reached the summit of Mt Everest.
Follow the road to North Piha Beach and stride
along the black sand as far as the United North
Piha Surf Club. Look for the distinctive tower. Just
before the Surf Club there is an accessway which
West Coast surf clubs
In 1934 Piha Surf Life Saving Club became the
first of the five surf clubs on the west coast.
Swimmers in difficulty were rescued by a
‘beltman’ attached by rope to an Australianstyle reel or dragged onto a locally developed
teardrop-shaped surf ski. These days lifeguards
use modern equipment, such as IRBs, to save
many dozens of lives every year.
28
Turn right onto Anawhata Road and make your way
to the campground at the old Craw Homestead,
about 1.5km away. You will pass Kuataika Track
on your left, where you will rejoin the Hillary Trail
tomorrow.
Side trips
Once you’ve settled in at Craw Campground,
follow the track behind the shelter to a lookout.
The remarkable view back to Piha makes the
short walk (5 minutes return) worthwhile.
Karekare Falls. Adds about 500m to the journey.
Turn right from the end of Pohutukawa Glade
Track onto the sealed road. Within 100m you
will spot a sign pointing you towards a picnic
area close to the bottom of the falls.
Lion Rock. (20 minutes return) From the beach
at the Lion’s tail, the track climbs up his back
and onto his shoulders offering grand views
of Piha along the way. As well as having been
an important pa site for Te Kawerau a Maki,
Lion Rock is the focus of ANZAC parades with
plaques near the base listing those who served
in both world wars.
Tasman Lookout. (40 minutes return) At the
southern end of the beach, this track takes you
to the top of the cliffs and wonderful viewpoints
overlooking Piha and Taitomo Island. The track
continues on an airy cliff-top route to a second
viewpoint overlooking The Gap.
29
Day Four
Craw Campground to Muriwai Beach
27km 11-12 hours
Shorter daylight hours make Craw to
Muriwai a challenge. We recommend
trampers consider the alternative finish at
Swanson (p34) during the winter months.
Retrace your steps along Anawhata Road to the
start of Kuataika Track, which crosses Anawhata
There is no treated water available until
you reach Muriwai Beach. There are also
no good sources for untreated water between Te
Henga/Bethells Beach and Muriwai Beach. Make
sure you are well stocked with treated water
before you set out.
Farm before dropping down to Anawhata
Stream. In the later days of logging, timber
from a holding dam
downstream of this
crossing was winched
uphill, on a straight
line of tram tracks,
by a steam hauler
close to the Craw
Campground.
An equally steep climb
on the other side of
the stream becomes
gentler as you approach
Kuataika (265m). A
very short side track on
the left will take you to
the rocky summit. Here
there are views back
to Anawhata and on to
Raetahinga Point.
Back on the main
track, the junction with
Houghton,
Wainamu
Bush and Smyth Ridge
Tracks is not far away.
TheTheHillary
HillaryTrail
Trail
Private land
ARC Parkland
Private land
ARC Parkland
Bus stops
Other Public Open Space
Road walking
Bus stops
dots: change
of road
name
Other Public Open Space
Road
walking
dots: change of road name
Railway station
Beach and wetlands
Public transport option*
Railway station
Beach and wetlands
Public transport option*
*This option indicates our recommended tramping route for access to and from
option
indicatesand
ourSwanson.
recommended tramping route for access to and from
public *This
transport
at Titirangi
public transport at Titirangi and Swanson.
Hillary Trail
Hillary
Trail
dots: change
of track
name
dots: change of track name
30
Hillary Trail campground
Hillary Trail campground
Other campground
Other campground
Surf lifesaving club
Surf lifesaving club
Pick up options
Pick up options
Emergency telephone
Emergency telephone
Cafe
Cafe
Toilets
Toilets
31
A fair weather tramway
The Piha tramway was one of the great feats
of the timber men enabling the extraction of
kauri from this rugged terrain. The narrowgauge tramway carried logs and sawn timber
on trestles above wave-lashed rocks and
shifting sands, below towering cliffs and over
steep hills to the wharf at Whatipu. It grew
in sections between the 1870s and 1916. At
its greatest extent it ran for a full 14km from
Anawhata Stream to Whatipu.
At this junction you are making a big
commitment to continue on the Hillary
Trail to Te Henga/Bethells Beach and Muriwai. If
conditions are bad or any member of your party
may struggle with the distance still to cover,
consider turning inland here towards Swanson
(see page 34).
To continue on the main route of the Hillary Trail,
turn onto Houghton Track. At the bottom of the
hill turn right onto Lake Wainamu Track. The track
goes around the edge of this dune impounded
lake and ends at a huge expanse of black-sand
dunes. They have built up over thousands of years,
damming the stream and creating the lake. At this
point the Hillary Trail follows the Waiti Stream to
Bethells Road.
Cross the road, keeping the bridge on your right.
The trail continues on the other side of Bethells
Road on the Department of Conservation (DOC)
-managed Te Henga Walkway. The flat land
upstream of the footbridge was the site of the
Maori village of Waiti.
Make your way through a paddock before heading
up the hill, then follow the track north to O’Neill
Bay. There are several private baches dotted
around as you travel through fields of harakeke
and groves of pohutukawa.
32
Follow the trail up the steep hillside to the edge
of the farmland and head north. This section of
the trail, known as Te Ara Kanohi (the pathway
of the eye), was the site of several important
fortified pa in pre-European times. There is plenty
to distract you as you wind around the headlands,
but some parts need all your attention and you
may be feeling weary by now. Eventually the track
turns inland across farmland and a steep climb to
Constable Road.
Be alert! You have more than 3 hours of
road walking ahead of you.
Turn left onto Constable Road and then left again
onto Oaia Road. Watching out for traffic, follow
Oaia Road past Waitea Road, until you reach
Edwin Mitchelson Track. This leads down to
Quarry Track, with views to the long sweep of
Muriwai Beach. When you reach Waitea Road,
take the road to Maukatia (Maori Bay). Continue
a little further on the tarseal and finish on Takapu
Refuge Walk. Gannets arrive at the mainland
colony on the headland in winter and spring to
reconnect with their mates and nest. Chicks are
abundant in early summer.
The walk emerges at the southern end of
Muriwai Beach. This is the end of the Hillary Trail.
Congratulations!
Ark in the Park
A partnership between the ARC and the
Waitakere Branch of Forest & Bird, Ark in the
Park is an open sanctuary project at Cascade
Kauri for native wildlife. Since 2003, intensive
work has cleared pests and predators from
1100 hectares of parkland. This ‘mainland
island’ has become a safe place to reintroduce
species driven out of the ranges by predation
and habitat destruction. To find out more go to
www.arkinthepark.org.nz
33
Alternative finish at Swanson
Recommended winter option.
This option for the Hillary Trail ends at Swanson,
which is accessible by public transport. It is
18.5km, as opposed to 27km for the Muriwai
option. It will take about 7.5 to 8.5 hours.
If you are being picked up in a private vehicle,
finishing at the end of Falls Road in the Cascade
Kauri area is an excellent choice. This option is
about 10km from Craw Campground.
Walk from Craw Campground to the junction of
Kuataika, Houghton, Wainamu Bush and Smyth
Ridge Tracks as described for the main route (page
31). For the Swanson option, take Smyth Ridge
Track to Smyth Corner. Turn right onto Long Road
Track and take Upper Kauri Track.
The track leads you through mature kauri forest in
the Ark in the Park open sanctuary area, where you
may hear kokako and receive a visit from a curious
robin while walking among ancient giants.
At the lower end of Upper Kauri Track a pou
stands in welcome. (If you are finishing your trail
experience here, turn left onto Auckland City Walk
and cross the swing bridge and make your way
up to Cascade Kauri car park. There are toilets,
drinking fountains and an emergency telephone
nearby).
Booking information
There is no charge to use the Hillary Trail. However,
ARC campgrounds cost $5 per person per night.
They must be booked in advance and full payment
must be made at the time of booking. There are
three ways to book and pay:
Over the phone: Call the ARC on 09 366 2000
or 0800 80 60 40 (freephone) and have your
credit card ready. We accept Visa, Mastercard and
American Express.
In person: Pay using cash, cheque or eftpos at
the ARC’s ground-floor reception at 21 Pitt Street,
Auckland 1142.
By mail: Send a cheque with your contact and
booking details to Auckland Regional Parks,
Private Bag 92-012, Auckland. A member of the
parks team will contact you when this has been
received.
Parks staff should be advised within 24 hours
of the date of booking should you decide not to
proceed with your camp booking. No refunds are
given except when more than two weeks’ prior
notice has been received in writing or if the camp
is closed due to bad weather.
Alternatively, from the Upper Kauri Track, turn right
and follow Auckland City Walk to the junction with
Anderson Track. After crossing the stream the
track makes its way out of the valley, steeply at
times. Turn onto Anderson Southern Access before
reaching Scenic Drive.
Cross the road to Peripatus Track which drops
steeply and roughly before joining Swanson
Pipeline Track. Follow this to the end of the track
at Tram Valley Road. Sections are bare clay and will
be slippery if wet.
Turn right and walk along Tram Valley Road to get
to Swanson and public transport.
34
35
Auckland Regional Council
21 Pitt Street
Private Bag 92-012
Auckland 1142
Phone: 09 366 2000 or 0800 80 60 40 (freephone).
Choose option 2 for parks information.
Hours: Monday to Friday 8am to 5pm*
(including public holidays)
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.arc.govt.nz
Arataki Visitor Centre
Scenic Drive, 6km from Titirangi
Phone: 09 817 0077
Hours: 9am to 5pm in summer
10am to 4pm in winter
Email: [email protected]
MAXX
Public transport information
Phone: 09 366 6400 or 0800 10 30 80 (freephone)
Hours: 6am to 9pm Monday to Friday
7am to 8pm Saturday
8am to 6.30pm Sunday and public holidays
Website: www.maxx.co.nz
Huia Settlers Museum
1251 Huia Road
Phone: 09 811 8971
Hours: 1.30pm to 4.30pm Saturday and Sunday
Admission by donation
Whatipu Lodge
Phone: 09 811 8860
Piha Domain Motor Camp
Phone: 09 812 8815
Muriwai Beach Motor Camp
Phone: 09 411 9262
*Hours vary and are extended during peak periods. See website for details.
09 366 2000
www.arc.govt.nz
3866.CD.04/10
Contact information