1C
Wednesday
Homemade ice cream hits the spot
August 20, 2014
Good old-fashioned homemade vanilla ice cream
can be tweaked for any occasion. Learn how to
make your own — and make memories in the
process.
Features Editor
Donna Gable Hatch
257-0320
[email protected]
2C
➤ Inside
Dynamic duo
Try dairy
free: It’s
is a great
way to be
No need to deprive
oneself of low-carb
mac ‘n’ cheese
After year together collaborating, local authors Linda Coffee and Emily Cale are still helping cooks prepare simple and easy-to-make meals with their
series of Four Ingredient Cookbooks. They are now making their books available as ebooks.
Friends still cooking up recipes with 4 or fewer ingredients
Story and photo by Phil Houseal
K
Special to The Times
errville’s best-selling cookbook
authors — Emily Cale and
Linda Coffee —are taking their
popular series of Four Ingredient
Cookbooks from the printed page to
PDFs and pixels.
Their back story is epic in the
publishing industry. The young
mothers and career women met at
a school function in Kerrville back
in 1990. Discovering their common
interest in cooking, they got together
to share simple recipes that were
quick and easy to make.
“We wanted to see how many
recipes we could come up with that
only used four ingredients,” Emily
said.
They gathered 200 recipes, and
decided to put them in a cookbook.
On a whim, they sent a letter to
the food editor at the San Antonio
newspaper, describing their idea.
The editor interviewed them and
ran a front page story. The day the
article ran, they took orders for 500
cookbooks.
And they didn’t even have the
book printed.
After scrambling, they filled those
first orders, along with 2 million more
over the years, from their series of
Four Ingredient Cookbooks.
Their publishing journey has
taken them from manning booths
at weekend peddler shows to being
featured in Sam’s stores and all the
large retail bookstore chains.
Ease in publishing and the advent
of electronic — or ebooks — has
opened up a new marketing avenue
How to buy
now to ebooks.
“Neither one of us ever had money
➤ To order any of the Four
as
our focus,” Coffee said. “First was
Ingredient Cookbooks go to
the building of our friendship, and
www.fouringredientcookbook.
then it became the challenge of ‘can
com.
we do this?’ We were not trying to
build an empire; we just enjoyed the
for the authors. Gone are the grueling camaraderie and fun of seeing it grow.”
weekends sitting in windblown
Now the books have been
booths at tent shows and flea
converted into PDF files that can be
markets.
downloaded and printed out by the
“We had a lot of fun doing that, but reader, and ebooks that can be read
we were younger,” Cale said. “We both on Amazon’s Kindle reader.
worked full time, yet would drive to
Then there is social media. In
Dallas for a show on the weekend, then a short time, they have gained a
drive back to be at work on Monday
thousand fans who follow their
morning. I don’t know how we did it,
Facebook page www.facebook.
actually.”
com/FourIngredientCookbook.
Coffee has a theory about why their Orders come in from as far away as
partnership has endured as the book
Australia.
has moved from an idea to typed pages
to photocopies to published books and
See Cookbook, page 2C
Food-centric film ‘The Hundred-Foot Journey’ promotes French cuisine
By Jill Wendholt Silva
The Kansas City Star
(MCT) — After a recent screening
of “The Hundred-Foot Journey,” a
moviegoer turned to me and asked if I
had ever tasted sea urchin.
The prickly purple pincushion plays
a pivotal role in this elaborate and
engaging food tale. The roe, or the
inner belly, is most often consumed
raw. On Japanese sushi menus it is
often labeled as “uni.”
Inside
➤ Recipes: Learn how to make
omelettes aux fines herbes. 2C
In the opening scene, viewers meet
Hassan Kadam (Manish Dayal) as he
weaves his way through an Indian
market as a boy and is captivated by
his first taste of sea urchin, which,
years later, he describes as no less
than “the taste of life.”
➤ Nonprofit
Kadam, who grows into a naturally
gifted cook with an extraordinary
palate, and his family, led by
Papa (Om Puri), run a traditional
restaurant. After their restaurant is
burned to the ground by political
protesters, the displaced family winds
up in Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val, a
quaint village in the south of France.
But when the family opens the
colorful and exotic Maison Mumbai
just 100 feet from Le Saule Pleureur’s,
a Michelin-starred restaurant run by
the haughty maven of haute cuisine
Madame Mallory (Helen Mirren),
the ingredients for a culture clash
threaten to boil over.
Worried about the competition as
well as what she perceives as a lack
of respect for her country’s cuisine,
Madame Mallory dishes out insults
about everything from the smell of
➤ Event
Since I began writing this
bi-weekly column for The Kerrville
Daily Times, I’ve had more and
more people contact me about
the use of dairy in the recipes I
provide.
While I do follow the lowcarbohydrate diet that allows dairy
in moderation, a lot of people have
gone paleo because they simply
cannot tolerate it.
Since my primal
journey began, I’ve
noticed myself
reaching for the
cheese far less
than I normally
would, and
I’ve even
sought out
➤ Caitlin Probandt
alternative
Food for Thought
recipes for
some of my
favorite comfort foods.
Below are two such recipes —
one for “cheesy” low-carb mac
‘n’ cheese (obviously, no noodles
involved) and a hearty tomato basil
soup without the heavy cream.
This cauliflower dish (oh, you
know how I love my cauliflower)
imitates the comfort food appeal of
real mac ‘n’ cheese at only around
50 calories per serving.
Cauliflower ‘mac ‘n’ cheese’
Ingredients
4 cups cauliflower
Cheese sauce
¼ cup unsweetened almond milk
6 tablespoons nutritional yeast
1 teaspoon coconut oil
1 teaspoon ground mustard
¼ teaspoon garlic powder
Salt and pepper to taste
1 tablespoon ground flaxseed or
1 tablespoon almond meal, or a
mixture of both
Directions
In a large bowl, break up
cauliflower into small bits.
In a skillet over medium heat,
cook the cauliflower until it softens
up and is semi-translucent.
Mix the ingredients for your
“cheese” sauce together in a small
bowl.
Pour “cheese” sauce over
cauliflower and mix it together.
Pour your cauliflower into a
baking dish.
Sprinkle the topping on and cook
in an oven at 400 F for 15 minutes.
The following tomato basil soup
packs an extra punch with protein
from added ground beef. It also
has no heavy cream. In fact, it is
completely paleo-friendly for those
who have sworn off cow byproducts
— but it is just as delicious as the
regular tomato basil soups floating
around Pinterest and the Web.
This particular soup also freezes
incredibly well, so go ahead and
make a double recipe and freeze
half to have on hand when the
weather gets cold or you’re in a
pinch for time.
See French, page 2C
See Caitlin, page 2C
➤ Fundraiser
Hawaiian Luau Party to benefit United Way
Roddy Tree Ranch food drive for CAM continues
Tables for Good set for Sept. 6
INGRAM — A Hawaiian-themed luau set for Sept. 13 at Roddy Tree
Ranch, 820 Texas 39, benefits Kerr County United Way.
The event includes a Polynesian feast, hula dancers, fire dancers,
island drummers and music by Halemando, a Reggae band.
Casual beach attire is requested. Tickets for the all inclusive event,
which includes an open bar, are $50 in advance. VIP tables are available.
Gates open at 6 p.m., dinner is served from 6 to 8 p.m.
For more information, visit roddytree.com or call 367-2871.
Roddy Tree Ranch is hosting its annual food drive for Kerr County Area Christian
Assistance Ministry. H-E-B shopping carts are at the following locations:
• Roddy Tree Ranch, 820 Texas 39, between Ingram and Hunt
• Ken Stoepel Ford, 400 Sidney Baker St. S.
• REV-FM Radio, 2125 Sidney Baker St. N.
• Johnny Brinks Floor Store, 1204 Sidney Baker St. S.
• Plant Haus 2, 528 Jefferson St.
• Western Beverage, 1464 Junction Highway and 1040-A Junction Highway
• Next Generation Produce, 509 Sidney Baker St.
A table top show and sale to raise funds for Meals on Wheels is from 10 a.m.
to 1 p.m. Sept. 6 at the Dietert Center’s River Side Grill, 451 Guadalupe St. The
event includes show and sale of tablescapes and a pastry buffet for $10.64 —
which is the cost of two Meals on Wheels lunches.
Sponsorship packages include a sneak preview breakfast from 9 to 10 a.m.
and Finds gift certificates. Sponsorships are as follows:
• $106.40 — which is a month’s worth of Meals on Wheels
• $26.60 — which is a week’s wortho f Meals on Wheels
• $1,276.80 — which is a year’s worth of Meals on Wheels
For additional information, call 792-4044 or 315-3463 or visit the center’s
website at www.dietertcenter.org.
2C
Living | Wednesday, August 20 2014
Features Editor, Donna Gable Hatch, 257-0320, [email protected]
Recipes: Homemade ice cream, a delight frozen in time
humming away in my pantry
closet, it doesn’t create any of that
shared experience I had as a kid
making ice cream with the gang.
Vanilla is still my favorite flavor,
though strawberry and fresh peach
are close. My ice cream is custardbased. The only difference from my
mother’s recipe is that I use vanilla
bean rather than the vanilla extract.
Or I did until cookbook author
David Lebovitz (“The Perfect
Scoop”) taught me that it’s way
better to use both. His recipe is the
best I’ve ever found, and I make it
all the time now.
In summer, I serve it plain with
butter cookies and sometimes with
berries strewn over the top. If I feel
a chocolate craving coming on, I
make a batch of Alice Medrich’s
hot fudge sauce and serve that
ivory ice cream with her satiny
dark hot fudge poured over.
By S. Irene Virbila
Los Angeles Times
(MCT) — For my mother, who
was raised on a Nebraska farm,
making ice cream was a much
loved ritual. My sister and I and
assorted friends would pile into
the car and set off with my mom
to buy all the ingredients — eggs,
cream, rock salt, a big bag of ice —
and hurry straight back before the
ice melted.
My mother would have made
her custard base the night before.
Once we had everything assembled,
she’d carefully pour the ivory
mixture into the hand-cranked ice
cream maker’s inner container and
then insert the wooden paddles.
Outside on the patio, we packed
ice and rock salt around the inner
container, and start the churning
in relays. The smallest kids went
first, when the crank was easier to
turn. The bigger kids would step in
when turning required more force.
Anticipation made us giddy. Who
would ever trade this much fun
for a carton of ice cream from the
supermarket?
Once the handle got too hard to
turn, my mother would remove the
paddles as we all stood waiting for
a lick. Then she packed new ice
around the ice cream container and
set the whole thing under blankets
in the bathtub to “cure” for a while.
That moment when she dished
out the hand-churned ice cream
into waiting bowls was sheer
magic. On a summer day, you had
to eat it fast — before it melted into
a puddle. No problem. In happy
French | continued from page 1C
curry to the plastic place mats.
She prevails on market vendors to
sell their wares only to her. She
makes a complaint to the minister
about the noise pollution caused
by the family’s traditional music.
She even dumps a peace offering
in the trash.
But when her xenophobic
behavior encourages her cooks
to go too far, Madame Mallory
agrees to cook an omelet with
Hassan. (Marguerite, played
by Charlotte Le Bon, Mallory’s
beautiful and kind sous chef, told
Hassan that Madame hires her
cooks after tasting their omelets).
Hassan’s version — made
with his mother’s fragrant Indian
spices that he has carted across
the continent in a suitcase —
melts Madame’s frosty exterior.
(“It’s sharp and cool in the
mouth, all at once. Do you know
how much it takes chefs to learn
that?”) Or course, she takes
Hassan under her wing, vowing
to teach him the fundamentals of
French cuisine, which, she tells
Papa, will become his springboard
to a better life.
And the proof is in the beef
Bourguignon, which Hassan and
Madame Mallory serve to Papa,
by now less of a critic of his
adopted homeland with all those
fancy sauces and a sprinkling —
rather than a spoonful — of spice.
As food-centric films go, “The
Hundred-Foot Journey,” directed
by Lasse Hallstrom and produced
by Steven Spielberg and Oprah
Winfrey, is lovely to look at
and certainly heartwarming, if
somewhat predictable. References
to the power of critics and the
ridiculousness of cauliflower ice
cream made me laugh out loud.
My biggest disappointment?
The cards sent as a promotion for
Vanilla ice cream
Kirk McKoy/MCTphoto
Homemade ice cream is a timeless treat that can be tweaked for any event. Makes: About 1 quart
ecstasy, we rolled the silky frozen
cream over our tongues, tasting
egg, cream and real vanilla.
We never had to beg my mother
to make ice cream. She’d take any
excuse. She loved it so much, she’d
make it even in the depth of winter.
Same drill. Turning the crank on
the patio, only this time, instead of
shorts and bathing suits, we’d be
wearing jeans and sweaters. When
the ice cream was ready, she’d pass
out the heavy wool coats she’d
accumulated when we lived on the
the movie featured only French
recipes from Le Cordon Bleu.
No recipe for Indian tikka or sea
urchin? I don’t think a recipe for a
curry hotdog counts.
Omelettes aux
fines herbes
Makes: 4 to 6 servings
Ingredients
5 sprigs fresh chervil
5 sprigs parsley
5 sprigs fresh tarragon
5 chives
5 ounces clarified butter, divided
1 dozen eggs
Salt and pepper, to taste
Directions
Pick the leaves off the chervil,
parsley and tarragon, and trim
the bottoms off the chives. Blanch
the herbs separately in boiling
water, then refresh immediately in
ice water. Squeeze out the excess
water and finely chop. Warm a
large plate and brush the center
with butter. Lightly season plate
with salt and pepper; set aside
and keep warm.
Break the eggs in a large bowl,
season with salt and pepper and
whisk well. Add the chopped
herbs. Heat the remainder of the
clarified butter in the omelet pan
over medium heat. When the
butter is hot, pour the egg mixture
into the pan. Gently stir with
a fork, lifting the bottom to let
uncooked egg flow underneath.
The eggs should not set too
quickly or take on too much color.
Once the eggs are almost
completely set, that is, they can
no longer be stirred, give the pan
a good shake or tap. Lift the pan
almost vertically; with the aid of
a fork, fold the omelet in half and
slip it onto the prepared plate,
folding it again onto itself. Cover
East Coast. And we’d sit bundled
in her red-and-black plaid or tweed
coats, happily eating her vanilla ice
creamx. Of course, we always ate it
so fast we’d get a headache that felt
like someone had plunged an icicle
into the middle of our foreheads.
In one move or another, I lost my
hand-cranked ice cream maker and
replaced it years ago with an Italian
gelato machine that was all the rage
— and deeply discounted. Crazy
loud and a bit temperamental, it
makes beautiful ice cream. But
with a clean kitchen towel, and
press along the sides, forming
points at each end. Brush the top
of the omelet with clarified butter
before serving.
Ingredients
1 cup milk
Pinch of salt
3/4 cup sugar
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
2 cups heavy cream
5 egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Directions
In a medium saucepan, warm
the milk, salt and sugar, stirring
to dissolve the sugar. Scrape the
seeds from the vanilla bean and
Ingredients
2 3/4 pounds boneless short ribs
of beef, fat removed and cut into
1 1/2 by 1 1/2 inch pieces
Salt and pepper, to taste
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
6 ounces apple wood smoked
bacon, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
4 tablespoons canola oil
2 tablespoons butter
4 cloves, tied in a string
2 bay leaves
18 small pearl onions, peeled
18 baby carrots, peeled and cut
into half if longer than 2 inches
(otherwise kept whole)
18 baby turnips, peeled and cut
in half
1/2 pound chanterelles
mushrooms, cleaned trimmed and
cut in half
2 onions, diced
1 garlic head, cloves separated,
peeled, and chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh
gingerroot
1 tablespoon freshly ground cumin
1 tablespoon ground brown
mustard seed
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 bottle red Burgundy wine
1 quart white beef stock
4 sprigs thyme
2 tablespoons brown sugar
Directions
Preheat oven to 325 F. Season
the beef with salt and pepper and
lightly coat with the flour. Keep at
room temperature for 30 minutes.
Reserve extra flour.
Place a large stew pot over
moderate heat and add the bacon
and canola oil. Cook until fat is
rendered; remove bacon. In the
same pot sear the short ribs until
lightly colored. Take care not to
burn the pan. Remove the beef.
Add pearl onions to pan and
cook for 2-3 minutes; remove
onions and reserve. Repeat this
process with the carrots and
turnips. Add the chanterelles and
saute for 1 minute; remove and
reserve. Add the butter to the
leftover oil in the pan and add
the cloves, bay leaf and cook for
1 minute. Add minced onion,
garlic and ginger and cook for 4-5
minutes until transparent. Add
the cumin and mustard seed and
cook for 2 minutes more. Add
the leftover flour and the tomato
paste and cook for 2 minutes.
Deglaze the pan with wine and
bring to a boil. Add the beef stock
and bring up to a boil. Add the
bacon and the short ribs to the
pan; bring to a boil reduce heat.
Add thyme. Season with salt and
pepper. Place the pot in the oven
and cook approximately 2 to
2 1/2 hours
Add the carrots, turnips and the
pearl onions. Cook for 30 minutes
more.
Take out of oven add sugar and
remove clove, parsley and bay
leaves. Add the chanterelles. Reseason with salt. At this time the
stew should be not as saucy and a
bit thicker. This stew tastes better
the next day. Garnish with parsley
and chervil.
Garnish
1/4 cup chopped parsley
1/4 cup fresh chervil leaves
Source: Le Cordon Blue recipe
card for “The Hundred-Foot
Journey”
Source: Le Cordon Blue recipe
card for “The Hundred-Foot
Journey”
Beef Bourguignon
a la Hassan
Makes: 6 to 8 servings
add them to the saucepan, then drop
in the pod. Cover, remove from the
heat and set aside to steep at room
temperature for 30 minutes.
Pour the cream into a medium
bowl and set a mesh strainer on top.
Reheat the milk mixture until it’s
warm. In a separate bowl, whisk
the egg yolks, then gradually add
some of the warm milk mixture,
whisking constantly as you pour.
Pour the warmed yolks back into the
saucepan.
Cook over low heat, stirring
constantly and scraping the bottom
of the pan with a heatproof spatula
until the custard is thick enough to
coat the spatula. Pour the custard
through the mesh strainer into the
heavy cream. Rinse the vanilla
pod and return it to the custard to
continue steeping. Stir in the vanilla
extract.
Set the bowl containing the
custard over a larger bowl of ice
water. Stir the custard until cool,
then cover and refrigerate until
thoroughly chilled.
Remove the vanilla pod, rinsing
and reserving it for another use, and
then freeze the chilled custard in
your ice cream maker according to
the manufacturer’s instructions.
Variation
To make stracciatella, melt
5 ounces of bittersweet chocolate
until smooth, then drizzle a very
thin stream of the warm chocolate
over one quart of the ice cream
during the last possible moment of
churning. If the chocolate clings too
much to the dasher, remove the ice
cream from the machine and drizzle
the chocolate into the frozen ice
cream by hand while you layer it
into the storage container, breaking
up any chunks as you stir.
Cookbook | continued from page 1C
each course, from drinks to
dessert. There is also a complete
shopping list and a bunch of
holiday decorating tips we got from
our friends. And for each holiday,
you can switch out different sides
and entrees. We just tried to do
‘traditional’ and ‘easy.’”
They are currently working on
updating their books with the
latest food trend — recipes that
are gluten free. They are also
considering a phone app.
“I know there is a whole younger
generation that are enthusiastic
when they discover our books,”
Cale said. “And everyone still
appreciates the way it simplifies
things to make a good meal.”
There will always be those who
prefer the feel of an old-fashioned
book lying open on the counter
as they put together a meal. Many
cooks view the stains and penciled
comments in a well-used cookbook
as the ultimate mark of a good
recipe.
For those people, do not fret: You
can still buy a hard copy. But the
new electronic format has gained at
least one fan.
“I still like to read a cookbook,”
Coffee said. “But when I want a
recipe I go to the Internet. I like
being able to find it on one of my
devices instead of waiting to get to
my cookbook shelf.”
While the media format has
changed, the type of person who
loves the cookbook series has not.
The books are bought by and for
everyone from kids going off to
college and newlyweds, to seniors
who no longer have to cook for
large families and RVers who have
limited pantry space.
“When we were doing shows, a
lot of young men would come up
and tell us their wife didn’t like to
cook, so they were buying it for
themselves,” Cale said. “Now, a
lot of older people are buying it for
their grandchildren. People who
used the book are now passing it
on to their children because they
liked it.”
Another thing that has changed is
that people just don’t cook as much
as they used to.
“There are so many prepared
foods you can get at the store,” Cale
said. “You can buy chicken marsala,
so you don’t have to make it. But it
won’t taste as good as our recipe.”
Coffee and Cale are still writing.
They added a version with 350
recipes suitable for diabetics, and
one for holidays and celebrations,
Cale’s favorite.
“I like it because it has the whole
menu for each major holiday,”
Cale said. “We give recipes for
Caitlin | continued from page 1C
Tomato basil soup
Ingredients
30 ounces organic diced fireroasted tomatoes
1 cup coconut milk
1 tablespoon coconut oil
1 cup onion, diced
1 pound ground beef, preferably
grass-fed
3 cloves garlic
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Makes: About 1 pint
Ingredients
9 to 10 ounces bittersweet chocolate,
finely chopped
3/4 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons corn syrup
2 tablespoons water
Directions
This sauce is foolproof so long
as you heat it slowly: In the top of
a double boiler over (and touching)
barely simmering water, combine
the chocolate, cream, sugar, corn
syrup and water. Stir frequently
until all the chocolate has melted,
then stir occasionally until the
sauce is thick and glossy and is
between 160 and 165 degrees (the
exact temperature is not critical
so long as you are close), 15 to 20
minutes (going slowly is the key
here). Remove from the heat.
Serve the sauce immediately, or
set it aside until needed. It can be
kept, covered and refrigerated, for
at least a week or frozen for
3 months. Reheat in a double
boiler or microwave on medium
(50 percent) power, using short
bursts and stirring frequently. Do
not simmer or boil.
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup chicken broth
¼ cup basil leaves, chopped
Directions
Add diced tomatoes and coconut
milk to a blender and blend until
smooth.
Heat a large stockpot over
medium-high heat.
Add coconut oil and sauté
onions until translucent.
Add ground beef and cook until
brown and then drain fat.
Stir in minced garlic and salt.
Pour in tomato and milk mixture
and chicken broth.
Bring the soup to a boil and
reduce heat to simmer 10-15
minutes.
Mix in fresh basil, serve and
enjoy.
As the paleo lifestyle catches
on, the internet becomes an even
better resource for those who have
certain food allergies or wish to
stay away from dairy. Comfort
foods are no longer off limits for
those of us who wish to live the
low-carb lifestyle, all it takes is a
little searching and experimenting.
Caitlin Probandt believes in the
power of cauliflower. Contact her at
[email protected] with any
questions.
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Bittersweet hot
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