Vallée Bras-du-Nord

TICKET TO
Advertiser (Adelaide), Adelaide
02 Mar 2013, by PAUL HANSFORD
RIDE
QUEBEC
CANADA
PEDAL POWER OFFERS ONE OF
THE BEST WAYS TO SEE THE
NATURAL BEAUTY OF CANADA
WORDS PAUL HANSFORD
Media Monitors Client Service
Centre 1300 880 082
Copyright Agency Ltd (CAL)
licensed copy
I
definitely think you’re seeing some of the best
nature in Canada on this trip,” said my guide
Gilles, as we made our way along a riverside path,
the mountains in the background glowing with
green, gold and red-leaved maple trees.
I might have agreed with him if I wasn’t focusing
all my attention on the ground in front of me.
You see there’s nothing like mountain biking over
slippery rocks, twisting paths and massive tree roots to
turn the travel journalist side of the brain off and have
the self-preservation instincts kick in.
“Sure, Gilles, this place is beautiful,” I thought. “I just
don’t want to meet any of it face-first at 25km/h.”
To be honest, after a period of acclimatisation, I did
get to ride with my head up and take in the stunning
beauty of Vallée Bras-du-Nord near the village of SaintRaymond, an hour outside Canada’s Quebec City.
Ex-Canadian Masters mountain bike champ, Gilles
Morneau, and a team of passionate locals have worked
tirelessly to turn this beautiful landscape into some of
the best mountain bike trails in the region. With tracks
for all skill levels, they run through leaf-littered forests,
skirt along raging rapids and pass through maple
forests with networks of criss-crossing plastic tubes
that take the syrupy sap out of the tress with a little
help from gravity.
I had my own issues with Newton’s discovery during
the day but any aches or pains disappeared as I stood at
the bottom of Chute à Gilles − a waterfall named after
the man who discovered it − and finally got to take in
Weekend, page 31 - 1,278.53 cm²
Capital City Daily - circulation 218,669 (MTWTFS-)
ID 183699698
BRIEF CANADA TOU
INDEX 1
TICKET TO
RIDE
QUEBEC
CANADA
PEDAL POWER OFFERS ONE OF
THE BEST WAYS TO SEE THE
NATURAL BEAUTY OF CANADA
WORDS PAUL HANSFORD
I
definitely think you’re seeing some of the best
nature in Canada on this trip,” said my guide
Gilles, as we made our way along a riverside path,
the mountains in the background glowing with
green, gold and red-leaved maple trees.
I might have agreed with him if I wasn’t focusing
all my attention on the ground in front of me.
You see there’s nothing like mountain biking over
slippery rocks, twisting paths and massive tree roots to
turn the travel journalist side of the brain off and have
the self-preservation instincts kick in.
“Sure, Gilles, this place is beautiful,” I thought. “I just
don’t want to meet any of it face-first at 25km/h.”
To be honest, after a period of acclimatisation, I did
get to ride with my head up and take in the stunning
beauty of Vallée Bras-du-Nord near the village of SaintRaymond, an hour outside Canada’s Quebec City.
Ex-Canadian Masters mountain bike champ, Gilles
Morneau, and a team of passionate locals have worked
tirelessly to turn this beautiful landscape into some of
the best mountain bike trails in the region. With tracks
for all skill levels, they run through leaf-littered forests,
skirt along raging rapids and pass through maple
forests with networks of criss-crossing plastic tubes
that take the syrupy sap out of the tress with a little
help from gravity.
I had my own issues with Newton’s discovery during
the day but any aches or pains disappeared as I stood at
the bottom of Chute à Gilles − a waterfall named after
the man who discovered it − and finally got to take in
PAGE 1 of 3
Advertiser (Adelaide), Adelaide
02 Mar 2013, by PAUL HANSFORD
A
Media Monitors Client Service
Centre 1300 880 082
Copyright Agency Ltd (CAL)
licensed copy
Weekend, page 31 - 1,278.53 cm²
Capital City Daily - circulation 218,669 (MTWTFS-)
the scenery in my own time. For those who like their
scenery served at a less frenetic pace, taking le Train du
Massif to the Charlevoix region is a great option. Owned
by Cirque Du Soleil founder Daniel Gauthier, the luxuriinfluential settlement in the world − control of
With its surrounds offering excitement
luxurywith
in most
ous trainand
− replete
five-star dining and interactive
Quebec in the 18th century meant control of the lucraequal measure, Quebec City itself
is avia
fantastic
maps
an iPad place
on every table − takes a route along a
tive fur trade routes of North America − the town is
to spend some time, featuring the
mostinlet
photographed
coastal
to the beautiful town of Baie-Saint-Paul.
full of quaint, cobbled streets, museums and hiddenhotel in the world − the Hogwarts-esque
Once there Fairmont
you can relax in the surrounds of Gauaway eateries. As the heartland of French Canada,
Le Chateau Frontenac − and boasting
an old
town
thier’s new
hotel,
Laso
Ferme, or take a tour of the local
Gallic influence is unavoidable and the locals take
proud of its history and tourism shops
industry
rem- the
andthat
art it’s
galleries.
My guide Jean and I grabbed
great pride in their roots. For the full experience, head
iniscent of The Rocks on steroids.
bikes and headed to Laiterie Charlevoix, Microbrasserie
Temporel, a cafe where FLQ separatists used
Perfectly laid out to discover byCharlevoix
foot − if a little
hilly in to Chez
and Chocolaterie
du Village − the holy trinity
to meet in secret during the 1960s.
places − ‘QC’ has some very explorable
suburbs.
Nouvo
of cheese,
beer and
chocolate − and tried to burn off our
And no trip to Quebec City is complete without a
Saint-Roch is the revitalised home
to thewith
Quebec
Jazz
excesses
pedal
power.
Le Chateau
in Quebec
− aFrontenac
combination
of City.
french
Festival, rue Cartier is all flashy restaurants and taste of traditional poutine
trendy bars and the Saint-Jean neighbourhood is edgy, fries, gravy and squeaky cheese curds − which can be
hipster cool. A must-see there is Epicerie JA Moisan, bought at any self-respecting local restaurant. Unlike
a deli/café/inn/old-world supermarket that sells coffee the local biking scenery, this one is best attacked face
first and at high speed.
with complimentary spoons of chocolate spread.
However, Vieux Quebec − the old city − is where most
travellers visit and for good reason. Steeped in history Paul Hansford travelled as a guest of Tourism Canada,
which harks back to a time when Quebec City was the http://au.canada.travel/
ID 183699698
the scenery in my own time. For those who like their
scenery served at a less frenetic pace, taking le Train du
Massif to the Charlevoix region is a great option. Owned
by Cirque Du Soleil founder Daniel Gauthier, the luxurious train − replete with five-star dining and interactive
maps via an iPad on every table − takes a route along a
coastal inlet to the beautiful town of Baie-Saint-Paul.
Once there you can relax in the surrounds of Gauthier’s new hotel, La Ferme, or take a tour of the local
shops and art galleries. My guide Jean and I grabbed
bikes and headed to Laiterie Charlevoix, Microbrasserie
Charlevoix and Chocolaterie du Village − the holy trinity
of cheese, beer and chocolate − and tried to burn off our
excesses with pedal power.
With its surrounds offering excitement and luxury in
equal measure, Quebec City itself is a fantastic place
to spend some time, featuring the most photographed
hotel in the world − the Hogwarts-esque Fairmont
Le Chateau Frontenac − and boasting an old town so
proud of its history and tourism industry that it’s reminiscent of The Rocks on steroids.
Perfectly laid out to discover by foot − if a little hilly in
places − ‘QC’ has some very explorable suburbs. Nouvo
Saint-Roch is the revitalised home to the Quebec Jazz
Festival, rue Cartier is all flashy restaurants and
BRIEF CANADA TOU
INDEX 1
PAGE 2 of 3
trendy bars and the Saint-Jean neighbourhood is edgy,
hipster cool. A must-see there is Epicerie JA Moisan,
a deli/café/inn/old-world supermarket that sells coffee
with complimentary spoons of chocolate spread.
However, Vieux Quebec − the old city − is where most
travellers visit and for good reason. Steeped in history
which harks back to a time when Quebec City was the
most influential settlement in the world − control of
Quebec in the 18th century meant control of the lucrative fur trade routes of North America − the town is
full of quaint, cobbled streets, museums and hiddenaway eateries. As the heartland of French Canada,
the Gallic influence is unavoidable and the locals take
great pride in their roots. For the full experience, head
to Chez Temporel, a cafe where FLQ separatists used
to meet in secret during the 1960s.
And no trip to Quebec City is complete without a
taste of traditional poutine − a combination of french
fries, gravy and squeaky cheese curds − which can be
bought at any self-respecting local restaurant. Unlike
the local biking scenery, this one is best attacked face
first and at high speed.
Paul Hansford travelled as a guest of Tourism Canada,
http://au.canada.travel/
A
Le Chateau Frontenac in Quebec City.
B
C
FAST FACTS
Media Monitors Client Service
Centre 1300 880 082
GETTING THERE
Advertiser (Adelaide), Adelaide
02 Mar 2013, by PAUL HANSFORD
Weekend, page 31 - 1,278.53 cm²
Capital City Daily - circulation 218,669 (MTWTFS-)
The writer travelled Air Canada,
which operates daily flights
from Sydney to Québec City, via
Vancouver and/or Toronto. Jean
Lesage International airport is
20km from downtown Québec
City, with taxis costing a flat fee
of $34.25. There is also a bus
service that runs Monday to
Friday. aircanada.com
STAYING THERE
Auberge L’Autre Jardin is situated
in the up-and-coming Saint-Roch
neighbourhood and is the only
100 per cent fair trade hotel in
Canada. Rooms from $CAN96 per
person, including buffet breakfast.
autrejardin.com
SEEING THERE
Copyright Agency Ltd (CAL)
licensed copy
The Québec City skyline is dominated by Château Frontenac and
a walk around Old Québec is a
must. quebecregion.com/en
ID 183699698
BRIEF CANADA TOU
INDEX 1
A Paul Hansford takes to
FAST FACTS
a mountain bike to discover
some of the best scenery in
Canada.
PAGE 3 of 3
B
GETTING THERE
The writer travelled Air Canada,
which operates daily flights
from Sydney to Québec City, via
Vancouver and/or Toronto. Jean
Lesage International airport is
20km from downtown Québec
City, with taxis costing a flat fee
of $34.25. There is also a bus
service that runs Monday to
Friday. aircanada.com
B Fontaine de Tourny.
C Le Chateau Frontenac in
Quebec City.
STAYING THERE
Auberge L’Autre Jardin is situated
in the up-and-coming Saint-Roch
neighbourhood and is the only
100 per cent fair trade hotel in
Canada. Rooms from $CAN96 per
person, including buffet breakfast.
autrejardin.com
SEEING THERE
C
The Québec City skyline is dominated by Château Frontenac and
a walk around Old Québec is a
must. quebecregion.com/en