BFF
Puppy
Preschool
Handling Exercises
Toes
What to do –-- Gently feel each toe on the front feet (squeezing slightly). Also feel
between each toe and examine the nail. After feeling the front feet, move on to the rear
feet. Also get the puppy comfortable with the handling of the dew claws (if applicable).
Purpose of this Exercise --- This gets your puppy used to having his/her feet handled
and examined. Training your puppy to allow their feet to be handled will make nailtrimming much easier. During your pup's life you may need to check the foot pads for
injuries, ticks, or just remove the ice-balls or salt that accumulate from walking in the
snow.
Smell and check Ears
What to do --- Lift the flap and examine the contents of each ear. Sniff each ear.
Purpose of this Exercise ---This will help get your puppy used to ear examinations and
cleaning. Your pup’s ears should be cleaned on a regular basis, how often this should
be done is something you should discuss with your veterinarian. If you notice an odor in
one ear and not the other, or a bad smell in both of them, excessive shaking and/or
scratching at the ear, then a veterinary visit is recommended.
Mouth and Teeth
What to do –-- Rub all gum/tooth surfaces feeling for lumps or hot areas.
Purpose of this Exercise --- This will help get your puppy used to mouth examinations,
as well as preparing for tooth brushing.
Tail
What to do --- Gently examine the tail with light pressure from the base all the way to
the tip. Gently squeeze during examination. Repeat and gradually work up to a
reasonable amount of pressure.
Purpose of this Exercise --- At some point in your pup's life his/her tail will get pulled.
This exercise helps to desensitize your puppy so that he/she will not take exception to
the accidental pull later in life. This also accustoms both owner and puppy to examining
an often neglected appendage,and helps to prepare puppy for future grooming and
brushing.
Heart Beat
What to do --- Cup your hand over the apex of the puppy's chest. In larger dogs, over
the side is usually better. Feel the strength and speed of the heartbeat.
Purpose of this Exercise --- Being able to find the heart beat may sound silly, but it is
better to get used to looking for and finding it now than in an emergency. Talk to your vet
about what is normal for your puppy's size and breed.
Capillary Refill/Reflex
What to do --- Lift the lip on either side exposing the gum above the teeth. Press with
the pad of your finger for one second and release.
Purpose of this Exercise --- Capillary refill can be an indication of shock after a physical
trauma. Check the color of the gums. After pressure, note the time it takes for the gums
to return to the original color. Gray gums, or lack of refill after pressing, indicate a
serious medical condition and immediate veterinary attention is required.
Dehydration
What to do --- Pinch and gently lift up on the skin between the head and ear or the scruff
at the back of the neck. Release.
Purpose of this Exercise --- If the skin stays “tented” this is an indication of dehydration.
Slow return is also an indication. Use this vital sigh if the puppy has been overexposed
in the heat or has had diarrhea or vomiting. Report any sign of dehydration to your
veterinarian.
Forced Treat
What to do --- Open the mouth by pinching the flews on both sides of the muzzle
against the teeth until the teeth part. Lift the upper jaw upwards as if to remove a
forbidden object or to administer medication. Drop the treat onto the tongue in the front
portion of the Mouth. Allow puppy to chew the treat. DO NOT TIP THE HEAD
BACKWARDS.
Purpose of this Exercise --- Allows the puppy to become accustomed to a forcible
opening without other unpleasant or intimidating factors. The treat gives your puppy a
positive initial experience to the forced-open instead of the negative that would
accompany the removal of a stolen object or the negative of receiving a pill.
Gentle Head Pat
What to do --- Gently pat the puppy on the top of the head. After a couple of pats, rub
the puppy in their favorite place and praise. Repeat patting a little harder. Once the
puppy is comfortable with being patted on the head from behind, pat the puppy on the
head from the front.
Purpose of this Exercise --- Pat's on the head can be considered to be a dominate
gesture to a dog. However, this is one of the most likely motions a child will take.
Getting your puppy used to this activity will help to desensitize your puppy to having
his/her head patted.
Gentle Hug
What to do --- Gently pull the puppy into your lap and give a very light hug. Release and
praise. Repeat.
Purpose of this exercise --- As humans we like to give hugs, but many canines do not
like to be hugged. Hugs can be very confusing for puppies. However, as this is one of
the most likely actions your puppy may experience from a younger child, it is beneficial
to help puppies understand that they can be a pleasurable experience. Getting your
puppy used to this gesture will make him/her less likely to take exception to it and
possibly respond out of fear.
Eyes and Nose
What to do --- Visual Only. Look into the puppy's nose. Gently clear away any discharge
from the eyes. Look into the puppy's eyes.
Purpose of this exercise --- Puppies should not have nasal discharge. Eyes should be
clear and bright. If nasal discharge, cloudiness or diffuse appearance is noted in either
or both eyes, contact your veterinarian for an examination.
House Training
The biggest part of potty training a puppy is to watch, praise and be consistent. By
keeping a close eye on puppy, being quick and full of praise, puppy will soon know that
potty time needs to be taken care of outside. Be consistent, feed, water, potty and walk
your puppy around the same time every day. Keep in mind that dogs don’t know it’s the
weekend, so keep the same schedule. Don’t forget patience, patience and more
patience. Expect your house training experience to be unique, and learn to adapt. No
two puppies will give you same experience.
•
Crate training is the best and most effective way to house train a puppy. Puppies
should be crated when they are not under direct supervision of a responsible
person.
•
Take puppy outside first thing every morning, immediately after each meal, after
waking from a nap, and after long play sessions.
•
Watch puppy constantly. If he’s playing with a toy and suddenly gets up to sniff
around –She/He is giving signals that it’s time.
•
Take puppy to the same outdoor area each time. Do not walk around the yard or
neighborhood with your pup, there are too many distractions. Simply go outside
and stand in one spot until puppy goes. Stand in the same spot each time, the
scent of urine in the grass will encourage puppy to go.
•
Pay attention to your puppy while outside so you know when they have done
their business. Then be sure to offer lots of praise. Return inside the house
before initiating any play time outside.
•
Return your puppy to their crate, if your pup does not eliminate when outside.
Wait 10-20 minutes and then return outside.
•
Withhold playtime until after your puppy has eliminated.
•
Set a timer as a reminder to take puppy out (works well for children).
•
Never punish a puppy for eliminating in the house, only if you catch puppy in the
act can you startle puppy enough to cause the puppy to stop and then redirect
out side.
•
Be sure to clean up all accidents with an enzyme cleaner.
•
Attach words to the process, like ‘Go Potty’, ‘Time to Go’ or ‘Take care of
business’. The puppy will soon associate those words with going potty. A dog
can be trained to potty on cue and to a certain section of the yard with
persistence.
•
When puppies and dogs don’t respond to house training there may be a medical
reason, they are excited or frightened. Talk to your veterinarian anytime you
suspect there may a problem.
This handout is a general summary of house training, it may not work for all puppies,
and some alterations may need to be made based on individual need and history.
However, this method will work for most puppies.
Crate Training
Dogs are den animals by nature, and will look for spaces in your home or yard that
mimic a den. Dog crates make excellent dens and provide that safe, secure
environment that dogs crave. “Crate Training” has been proven to be the fastest and
most effective way to housebreak a puppy. A dog’s natural instinct is to avoid being
near his own waste, so he’ll make an effort to avoid eliminating in his crate. Crate
training can take one day, several days, a few weeks or longer, depending on the
breed, age and history of the dog. Crate training promotes bowel and bladder control for
your new puppy. If you have a puppy that is in the chewing stage, keeping him/her
confined in a crate will prevent him/her form eating something that can be harmful.
Leaving a puppy loose in a house where he/she can chew on electrical wires is
negligent. Begin by choosing a crate that is large enough for your puppy to stand up,
turn, and stretch out in. If it’s too large the puppy may choose to use one end for
sleeping and the other for as a bathroom. If you prefer to purchase a crate that will work
for your dog when full grown, be sure to look for the type that has a divider panel.
Keep the crate in your common living area
during the day, so your puppy can be part
of family activities. Dogs instinctively want to
sleep near their pack. If possible, move the
crate to your bedroom at night or get a
second crate for sleeping. This will also
allow you to correct him/her if he/she gets
fussy during the night.
Crate Training-2
When a puppy is released from his/her crate, he/she should be taken outside
immediately and encouraged to eliminate. Praise him/her when he/she accomplishes
this! Supervise your dog 100 % of the time when returning to the house, if not
completely housebroken. If you become busy or distracted, crate puppy with a special
toy that he/she only gets while being confined. If you keep your pup on a regular feeding
schedule and use the crate religiously, you will be rewarded with a fully housebroken
puppy in no time.
Destructive chewing behavior is often the result of an unsupervised puppy/dog that has
gotten bored or anxious. Using a crate during an owner’s short-term absence eliminates
this possibility. Dogs will sleep the vast majority of the time when their owners are away
anyway. So crating your puppy/dog while you’re away keeps him/her from being
destructive and prevents him/her from ingesting something that could potentially be
harmful if not fatal.
Separation anxiety occurs when a dog becomes distressed over the owner’s departure.
Because dogs are pack animals, they are not always prepared to cope with isolation,
even if it’s temporary. Making your dog’s crate time a positive experience can help
remedy this. Therefore the most important rule of crate training is to never use the crate
as a place of punishment. Never make a big deal about letting your puppy in or out of
their crate. Wait until he/she is calm and sitting before releasing from his/her crate,
and avoid giving praise or affection until relaxed.
Crate Training-3
If you plan on travelling with your puppy or dog, they have to be crated. So preparing
early for this experience is the best way to ensure a less stressful trip. With proper
training, it won’t be long before your dog’s crate becomes a wonderful safe place for
your pet, and a valuable training tool for you!
Pictures of my dogs enjoying their crates. The crate doors are open, they do sometimes
just go in and chew on bones or nap in their safe place. Lilly was just laying in their
room and then changed her mind and moved to her crate.
Health
Always ask your veterinarian if you have any concerns about your puppy, he/she is the
authority when it comes to health related issues. The health section is designed for
information purposes only, NOT a replacement for calling your veterinarian.
Please check out the link below:
http://www.dogs4dogs.com/blog/2010/12/28/is-your-dog‘s-bad-behavior-caused-by-ahealth-problem/#more-1108
Diarrhea
Dogs with Diarrhea ~Diarrhea is not a disease itself but rather a symptom that
something is not right with your dog’s health or gastrointestinal system. Diarrhea is the
passing of unformed, frequent, and increased volume of stool. Many dogs, like humans,
may occasionally suffer from an acute bout of diarrhea. Acute means coming on
suddenly and lasting no longer than a few days. If your dog is well and has no other
symptoms other than a frequent loose bowel motion there is probably no cause for
immediate alarm and you can treat it at home. There are many causes for diarrhea, for
example your dog may have eaten something disagreeable. Other causes could include
a sudden change in diet, food allergies, worm infestation or viral or bacterial infection.
If your dog has any of the following symptoms in conjunction with diarrhea seek
veterinary advice
•
Fever
•
Pain
•
Vomiting
•
Blood in the diarrhea
•
Lethargy or depression
•
Weight Loss
•
Dehydration
•
Loss of appetite
•
Foul smelling diarrhea
•
Any other sign of illness
What you can do at home for diarrhea
Withhold food (but not water) for 24 hours (12 hours for young puppies) to give your
dog’s digestive system a rest. Then feed him a bland diet of 50% boiled rice and 50%
chicken or 50/50 boiled rice and boiled hamburger for the next two to three days. If the
diarrhea doesn’t resolve seek advice from your vet.
Watch out for dehydration
A lot of water is lost from the dog’s system when passing frequent watery motions so
watch your dog for symptoms of dehydration. Sticky or dry gums can often indicate
dehydration. Encourage him to drink plenty of water or Lectade may be given.
Diet can cause diarrhea in dogs
If the diarrhea has come on suddenly consider if you have made any changes to his
diet. Often cheaper brand dog foods can cause diarrhea as can a sudden change in
diet. Feed your dog a good high quality diet. Cheap dog food may ultimately cost you
more with higher vet bills. My advice is to feed your dog the best possible food that you
can afford. Cheaper dog foods are bulked out with vegetables and carbohydrates which
pass straight through your dog. Rule of thumb: If you put in rubbish, rubbish will come
out. Diarrhea can also be caused by dairy intake in dogs due to lactose intolerance.
Dogs and puppies do not need to be given milk to drink. Don’t feed dogs people food,
especially spicy food.
Worms can cause diarrhea in dogs
Worms, such as roundworm, hookworm, whipworm and tapeworm can cause diarrhea
in dogs so ensure they are given de-worming medication regularly.
Parvovirus
Parvovirus enteritis is a highly contagious, viral disease which is often fatal. Symptoms
include vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration, dark or bloody feces, and in severe cases, fever
and lowered white blood cell counts.
Distemper
Canine Distemper is also a highly contagious viral disease which is often fatal. Diarrhea
is one of the many symptoms
Bacterial Infections that cause Diarrhea in puppies and dogs
Bacterial infections such as E. coli, Campylobacter jejuni and Salmonella varieties can
cause severe abdominal pain often accompanied with bloody diarrhea.
Parasites that cause diarrhea in Dogs and Puppies
Coccidiosis
Diarrhea is the main sign of coccidiosis. Blood and mucous in the diarrhea is a
common symptom.
Your vet may prescribe Sulfa antibiotics. This will not kill the organism but will
keep it in check until your puppy develops a good level of immunity.
Giardia
Symptoms in puppies and dogs include diarrhea with mucus and having a pale
greasy appearance. The diarrhea may be greenish or yellowish. There may also
be blood in the diarrhea There is usually a very bad odor to the diarrhea. Other
symptoms are weight loss, abdominal pain and vomiting.
Cryptosporidia
Cryptosporidia is a single cell parasite which can cause diarrhea in dogs and
puppies.
Pumpkin for Diarrhea and Constipation
It’s quite strange that canned pureed pumpkin (not the pie filling but the 100% natural
canned pumpkin) can work wonders for both the occasional bout of diarrhea or for the
opposite, constipation in dogs. It has been reported that it firms up dog’s loose stools or
diarrhea within a few hours. How much pumpkin should you give? It depends on the
size of the dog but as a rule of thumb a couple of teaspoons daily for a small dog or a
couple of tablespoons for a large dog. It’s doubtful that your dog or puppy will eat it
without disguising it in some way in it’s food.
Chronic diarrhea
If your dog has chronic diarrhea (Chronic means continuing for a long time, lingering or
persistent) then medical advice should be sought. Always check with your vet if diarrhea
is severe or persistent. Diarrhea can be life threatening.
Some Possible Causes of Diarrhea in Dogs and Puppies
1. Diet
2. Stress
3. Change in food
4. Drinking Milk (Lactose Intolerance)
5. Eating Garbage
6. Infection (viral or bacterial)
7. Worms
8. Parasites such as giardia & coccidia
9. Bowel Disease
10. Poisoning
11. Cancer
12. Blockage (foreign object)
13. Pancreatitis
14. Kidney disease
15. Liver disease
16. Intussusception (telescoping of the bowel on itself)
17. Hormone Imbalance
18. Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency
As you can see there are many causes of diarrhea in dogs and puppies. If diarrhea
persists you should seek advice from your vet.
Always ask your veterinarian if you have any concerns about your puppy, he is the
authority when it comes to health related issues. This page is for information purposes
only, NOT a replacement for calling your veterinarian.
Heat Stroke/Hyperthermia in Dogs
Hyperthermia is a term describing an elevation in body temperature. When a dog is
exposed to high temperatures, heat stroke or heat exhaustion can result. Heat stroke is
a very serious condition that requires immediate medical attention. Once the signs of
heat stroke are detected, there is precious little time before serious damage – or even
death – can occur. If left untreated severe heatstroke results in kidney, liver, and/or
heart failure. Dogs that are treated after a significant delay may survive but could be left
with permanent effects such as blood clotting disorders, metabolic abnormalities,
muscle damage, and/or brain dysfunction. Dogs do not sweat through their skin like
humans – they release heat primarily by panting. Once the dog’s temperature reaches
106°, damage to the body’s cellular system and organs may become irreversible.
Signs of Heat Stroke
The following signs may indicate heat stroke in a dog (some or all may be present):

Increased rectal temperature normal range is 101-102 (over 104° requires
action, over 106° is an emergency)

Vigorous panting

Dark red gums, Thick saliva

Tacky or dry mucus membranes (specifically the gums)

Lying down and unwilling (or unable) to get up

Collapse and/or loss of consciousness

Dizziness or disorientation
Heatstroke First Aid Material

2-Liter Soda Bottle

Towel or Blanket

Thermometer and Lubricating Jelly
Heatstroke First Aid

Check dogs temperature

Call your veterinarian or animal emergency care facility immediately for advice on
how to avoid shock and other complications. Advise them on the symptoms and
seek their advice for further instructions.

If unable to reach your veterinarian use the following as a guideline but NOT as a
replacement for veterinary advice.
1. Immerse the dog in cool to cold water. Bathtub is ideal.
2. Monitor temperature, by taking every 2 minutes to note any changes. Remove
the dog from the cool bath once his/her temperature is normal. The temperature
may continue to drop to an unsafe level. Speak to your pet in a soothing calm
voice. If you panic or are overly excited, this may frighten your pet.
3. If temperature falls below 100 degrees, keep your pet warm by covering with the
towel/blanket. Place a 2-liter soda bottle filled with warm water (not hot) against
the dog. Attempt to call your veterinarian or animal emergency care facility again.
Transportation to the Veterinarian

If at all possible two people should assist with transporting the dog to the
veterinarian: one to provide care for your pet and one to drive.

The vehicle must be well ventilated during the trip.

Use a pet carrier if possible, especially if only one person is transporting the dog.
A dog that normally responds well to car rides may not act the same under
emergency conditions.

Secure the carrier if possible
Preventing Heat Stroke
There are several ways you can prevent heat stroke from happening in the first place.

NEVER leave your dog alone in the car on a warm day, regardless of whether
the windows are open. Even if the weather outside is not extremely hot, the
inside of the car acts like an oven – temperatures can rise to dangerously high
levels in a matter of minutes.

Avoid vigorous exercise on warm days. When outside, opt for shady areas.

Keep fresh cool water available at all times.

Certain types of dogs are more sensitive to heat – especially obese dogs and
brachycephalic (short-nosed) breeds, like Pugs and Bulldogs. Use extreme
caution when these dogs are exposed to heat.

Jog early in morning before temperatures rise
Symptoms of Heat Exhaustion
Heat Exhaustion can occur during or after exercise, particularly on hot or humid days.
Heat exhaustion may not be associated with an elevation in body temperature.
Symptoms of heat Exhaustion

Collapse or fainting

Mentally dazed

Vomiting

Muscle cramps (seizure-like tremors)

Abnormally rapid heartbeat and rapid breathing

Muscle weakness
Please note that your veterinarian is the best person to ask any health related
questions.
Poisonous Plants
This does not represent a complete list of all poisonous plants.
Also, your pet may have a sensitivity or allergy to a plant that is not on the list, resulting
in toxicity. Always contact your veterinarian immediately if you think your pet may have
ingested a poisonous plant.
Special Notice: Several recent reports of dogs having kidney failure after ingesting
large amount of grapes or raisins has the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center
investigating to determine the causative agents or disease processes.
Poisonous Plants by Category

Bulbs: Amaryllis, Autumn Crocus, Daffodil, Day Lily, Elephant Ears,
Gladiolas, Hyacinth, Iris, Lily of the Valley, Narcissus, Orange Day Lily, Tulip

Ferns: Aparagus Fern, Australian Nut, Emerald Feather (aka Emerald Fern),
Emerald Fern (aka Emerald Feather), Lace Fern, Plumosa Fern

Flowering Plants: Cyclamen, Hydrangea, Kalanchoe, Poinsettia

Garden Perennials: Charming Diffenbachia, Christmas Rose, Flamingo
Plant, Foxglove, Marijuana, Morning Glory, Nightshade, Onion, Tomato Plant,
Tropic Snow Dumbcane

House Plants: Ceriman (aka Cutleaf Philodendron), Chinese Evergreen,
Cordatum, Corn Plant (aka Cornstalk Plant), Cutleaf Philodendron (aka
Ceriman), Devil’s Ivy, Dumb Cane, Golden Pothos, Green Gold Nephthysis,
Marble Queen, Mauna Loa Peace Lily, Nephthytis, Peace Lily, Red-Margined
Dracaena, Striped Dracaena, Taro Vine, Warneckei Dracaena

Lillies: Asian Lily (liliaceae), Easter Lily, Glory Lily, Japanese Show Lily, Red
Lily, Rubrum Lily, Stargazer Lily, Tiger Lily, Wood Lily

Shrubs: Cycads, Heavenly Bamboo, Holly, Jerusalem Cherry, Mistletoe
“American”, Oleander, Precatory Bean, Rhododendron, Saddle Leaf
Philodendron, Sago Palm, Tree Philodendron, Yucca

Succulents: Aloe (Aloe Vera)

Trees: Avocado, Buddist Pine, Chinaberry Tree, Japanese Yew (aka Yew),
Lacy Tree, Macadamia Nut, Madagascar Dragon Tree, Queensland Nut,
Schefflera, Yew (aka Japanese Yew)

Vines: Branching Ivy, English Ivy, European Bittersweet, Glacier Ivy, Hahn’s
self branching English Ivy, Needlepoint Ivy

Misc/Uncategorized: American Bittersweet, Andromeda Japonica, Azalea,
Bird of Paradise, Buckeye, Caladium hortulanum, Calla Lily, Castor Bean,
Clematis, Fiddle-Leaf Philodendron, Florida Beauty, Fruit Salad Plant, Golden
Dieffenbachia, Gold Dust Dracaena, Heartleaf Philodendron, Horsehead
Philodendron, Hurricane Plant, Mexican Breadfruit, Mother-in-law, Panda,
Philodendron Pertusum, Red Emerald, Red Princess, Ribbon Plant, Satin
Pothos, Spotted Dumb Cane, Sweetheart Ivy, Swiss Cheese Plant, Variable
Dieffenbachia, Variegated Philodendron, Yesterday/Today/Tomorrow
Always contact your veterinarian immediately if you think your pet may have
ingested a poisonous plant.
What to Do If Your Animal Has Been Poisoned
Immediately call the National Animal Poison Control Center and be ready to provide the
following information:
1.
Your name, address and phone number
2.
The agent your animal has been exposed to, if known. Information concerning
the exposure (the amount of the agent, the time since exposure, etc).
3.
The species, breed, age, sex, weight, and number of animals involved.
4.
The problems or symptoms your animal is experiencing.
The National Animal Poison Control Center (NAPPC)
1-900-680-0000 or 1-800-548-2423. There is a fee for calling for advice have your
credit card ready when calling. They accept Visa, Master Card, Discover or American
Express.
Puppy First Aid Basics
Post your veterinarian’s phone number with all of your other emergency numbers. Log
your Veterinarian’s phone number in your cell phone (if applicable). Be familiar with your
veterinarian’s procedures in the event of an emergency and if an emergency were to
happen after business hours. Determine if there are animal care facilities in your area.
Please note that your veterinarian is the best person to ask any health related
questions.
All puppy/dog owners should consider purchasing a book on puppy/dog first aid. You
may also consider taking a pet first aid course offered through your local American Red
Cross. There are several good books on the market to choose from.

Emergency Care for Dogs and Cats– First Aid for Your Pet by Dr. Cranton
Burkholder, D.V.M., MA.

Dog Owner’s Home Veterinary Handbook by Delbert G Carlson, D.V.M. and
James M. Griffin M.D.

Dog Owner’s Veterinary guide by G.W. Stam

Emergency First Aid for Dogs by Sheldon Rubin, D.V.M.

Complete Book of Dog Care by Leon f. Whitney D.V.M., revised by George D.
Whitney D.V.M.
First Aid Kit Recommended Items
Every dog owner should have a dog-specific First Aid Kit. The First Aid Kit should
contain those items you might require in a medical emergency. The following is a
sample of recommended items:

Rectal Thermometer

Ky Jelly

Neosporin Ointment (never use pain reliever form)

Sterile Dressing, Gauze (non-sterile), Sanitary napkins (bleeding control)

Adhesive Tape (for binding dressings)

Kaopectate and Pepto-Bismol (pay attention to expiration date)

Lidocane Spray and or ointment

Rubbing Alcohol

Hydrogen Peroxide, Table Salt (induce vomiting) check with veterinarian for
dosage

Blankets or towels (to keep dog warm or to carry dog/puppy)

Saline Solution (for eyes)

Scissors

Buffered Aspirin

Muzzle

Distilled (or sterilized) water

Empty 2-Liter soda bottle (to warm cold dog)
Have all these items stored together in a container set aside for emergencies. Make
sure that other family members know where it is located. Place your veterinarian’s
number and other emergency numbers in the box.
Your Veterinary professional is the best source of assistance and can advise you on
taking the following vitals. The following are items that you can discuss with your
veterinarian at your next visit.

How to take your dogs temperature

How and where to take your dog’s pulse

The normal pulse rate and strength for your dog.

Normal respiration for your dog (taking into account age, size, and breed).

Correct CPR techniques for the age and size of your dog.

Also, familiarize yourself with your dog’s normal gum color. Press the gums and
observe the amount of time it takes for the color to return in your healthy dog to
help you recognize when your dog is in medical distress.
Muzzling your dog
In an emergency the first thing to do is to muzzle your dog. Even the easiest going
friendly and accepting of pets may nip and/or try to bite when injured due to fear or pain.
An injured dog may even try to bite his/her owner making emergency measures difficult.
If you don’t have a properly fitted muzzle for your dog, you can use a necktie, knee-high
nylons, kerchief, belt or scarf. Do not tie the makeshift muzzle to tight as to cause
damage to the dog’s nose, at the same time make sure the muzzle is secure.
A List of Potential Poisons (not a complete list)

Animal repellents (mace), Insect bait, insecticides (carbamate, rotenone)

Antifreeze (ethylene glycol)

Aspirin (salicylate

Batteries (automotive)

Bleach, House hold cleaners, Metal cleaners, Solvents

Car exhaust, Space heaters

Chocolate

Cleaning preparations (alkalis)

Detergents

Fire extinguishers, Fire Works, Matches (phosphorus)

Mothballs or flakes (nathalene)

Flea Treatments (taken orally)

Food Scraps (garbage)

Fungicides, Germicides (phenol)

Rodent poisons (anti-coagulants), snail bait,

Heat exchange fluid

Herbicides

Linoleum (lead), Paint (lead), putty (lead), Wood preservatives (phenol)
Poison Cautions

Chocolate is one to the most common poisonous substances for dogs. Four
ounces of chocolate can kill a small dog. Baking chocolate is stronger and less
can be a deadly dose. Don’t leave chocolate items within reach of your dog.

Lysol and other phenol agents can be absorbed through the pads of the feet. For
this reason these substances are not used in kennels.

Insecticides and other bait traps for rodents can be potentially fatal to your pet.
Use caution in the placement of the traps and bait.

Antifreeze tastes sweet to dogs and also can be absorbed through the pads of
the feet. Be sure to clean up spills carefully.

When using pyrethrine or permethrine flea treatments shampoos, be sure to
rinse your pet thoroughly. Wear gloves for your protection.

With contact poisons, wash area thoroughly with soap or shampoo and water.
Chemical burns should be flushed with water for at least five minutes then
treated.
Please note that your veterinarian is the best person to ask any health related
questions.