EXHIBITIONS collection connection The Dragon Decoded PORTICO W I N T E R – S P R I N G 2 0 1 4 Katie Gephart, Curatorial Assistant Someone left a winter coat at the Taft Museum this holiday season, but not in the coatroom. The owner of the fur-lined, blue silk coat (fig. 1) is not a local fashionista but rather the Denver Museum of Art, which generously lent this and many other fascinating objects as part of Threads of Heaven: Silken Legacy of China’s Last Dynasty. This array of Chinese robes, accessories, and textiles complements the Taft’s permanent collection of ceramics, which shares a number of decorative motifs and symbols with the visiting objects. Chief among these are dragons, long-standing symbols of imperial power. In 1644, Manchu forces from the north invaded China and established the Qing dynasty (1644–1911). The Manchu appropriated many traditional Chinese symbols, including the dragon, to both ease the political transition and link themselves to the continuum of Chinese imperial rule. Dragons adorned clothing, accessories, wall hangings, and ceramic objects. Visual clues such as the color of the robe, the number of its dragons, and the number of claws on the dragons’ feet expressed the wearer’s relative status and power. In 1738, an imperial decree stated that no one below the rank of second-degree prince could wear robes showing five-clawed dragons, or long. If anyone of a lower status owned such a garment, one claw per foot had to be removed (fig. 2). 6 This semiformal court robe (jifu) features nine fiveclawed dragons in addition to the Eight Buddhist Emblems (including conch shells and vases) that brought peace and good fortune to the imperial family members who wore them. The number nine represents eternity. The delicacy of the silk and metallic threads contrasts with the lush leopard-fur lining of the coat, “winterizing” it to protect the wearer from the dramatic temperature drops of Chinese winters. 1. M anchu Man's Semiformal Court Robe, China, mid-1800s, woven silk and metal thread tapestry, fur lining. Denver Art Museum, Neusteter Textile Collection: Gift of Caroline Bancroft, 1942.1 Fur lining would have been very expensive, so most winter robes were only lined in cotton or silk wadding. The color blue suggests that the robe belonged to a member of the imperial family or another high-ranking official, as emperors and empresses traditionally favored yellow clothing. This robe, along with most of the other objects in Threads of Heaven, dates from the period when Empress Dowager Cixi (1835–1908) and her court were in power. In the Taft collection, a few pieces were designed for the imperial family or the court, as denoted by the presence of dragons. For example, the center of this Qing dynasty saucer (fig. 3) features a five-clawed dragon chasing a flaming pearl. The dragon, a stand-in for the strength and authority of the emperor, reaches out to capture the pearl, a symbol for wisdom rooted in Buddhism. The green, yellow, and aubergine color scheme links the piece to the famille noire tradition of glazing. Originally, the saucer was an imperial ware with simple monochrome sides and bore the reign mark of the Kangxi emperor (1661–1722). Later, however, a false reign mark and darker color scheme were added. This was likely done in China before the saucer’s export to exaggerate its famille noire palette, a style very popular among eager Western collectors. Imperial porcelain slowly began to reach the West during the late 19th century, but not until the Boxer Rebellion of 1900, with its attendant looting, did European and American collectors finally see the finest wares of the Ming and Qing dynasties. Further economic turmoil that culminated in the fall of the Qing dynasty in 1911 drove many court members to sell their household possessions, and even the imperial dragon robes entered the export market. Now dispersed in museums and private collections throughout the world, dragon robes and porcelains continue to evoke the grandeur and elegance of the court and culture of 19th-century China. 2. Manchu Man’s Semiformal Court Robe (detail), China, 1736–1795 with later alterations, silk and metal thread embroidery on silk gauze. Denver Art Museum, Neusteter Textile Collection: Gift of James P. Grant and Betty Grant Austin, 1977.191 3. Saucer Dish, Kangxi Reign (Qing dynasty), about 1700, with later additions, porcelain. Taft Museum of Art, 1931.90
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