Animal Welfare Policy GUIDELINES These guidelines are intended to help all those involved in the manufacture or supply of ASOS products understand the main animal welfare issues associated with the fashion and cosmetic industry, and the steps they can take to meet the standards set out in ASOS’ Animal Welfare Policy. 1 Version 3 June 2016 CONTENTS Animal Welfare Overview ........................................................................................... 2 Endangered Species .................................................................................................. 4 Fur .............................................................................................................................. 6 Angora & Other Rabbit Hair...…………………………………………………………….. 8 Leather & Skin .......................................................................................................... 10 Wool ......................................................................................................................... 13 Cashmere & Mohair ................................................................................................. 15 Other Animal Hair ..................................................................................................... 17 Feathers & Down ..................................................................................................... 19 Animal Testing ......................................................................................................... 21 1 Version 3 June 2016 ANIMAL WELFARE OVERVIEW What the policy says • Where animals are used in our products, suppliers should implement industry recognised best practice to ensure higher animal welfare during rearing, transportation and slaughter is safeguarded at all times. • Animal products and synthetic materials made to look like animal products must be clearly labelled to avoid confusion. • Suppliers must provide ASOS with information on the name of the species of animal used in our products (common and Latin name) and its country of origin Why this is important Animal welfare definition: Animal welfare means how an animal is coping, both physically and mentally, with the conditions in which it lives. Protecting an animal’s welfare involves safeguarding a good quality of life throughout its entire rearing process, including during transportation to slaughter, as well as ensuring a humane death. Higher animal welfare: The welfare of an animal can be described as good or high if the individual is fit, healthy and free from suffering. The five freedoms set out below are used in many countries as best practice measures by which to assess higher animal welfare: Freedom from hunger and thirst Freedom from discomfort Freedom from pain, injury and disease Freedom from fear and distress Freedom to express normal behaviour ASOS requires all animal derived materials to come from producers who ensure good animal husbandry. By this we mean the producer safeguards all of the animal’s five freedoms. Look out for producers that have achieved recognised organic certification (as detailed in the “Steps you can take table”), as producers can only be certified organic if they achieve higher animal welfare standards. Factory farming: 70 billion farm animals are reared worldwide every year for food (the majority of animal derived materials used in the fashion industry come from animals raised for food). Two thirds of these farm animals are raised on factory farms where animals’ five freedoms are not met. Animals farmed in these intensive systems often face a lifetime of confinement indoors, cramped and unhygienic living quarters, inadequate diets and health checks, painful medical procedures without anaesthetic and enforced separation from their young. Animals can also suffer whilst being transported over long distances to slaughterhouses. Traceability: To ensure suppliers are complying with this policy and higher animal welfare standards are being met ASOS is in the process of implementing an animal derived material traceability programme. We ask all suppliers to provide us with accurate information on both the common name and the Latin name of the species used. We request the Latin name for clarification purposes as often an animal derived material 2 may be known by several different common names. We also ask for country of origin of where the animal was reared (note: not the country where the hide, wool, hair or down was processed), as this information provides us with a good indication of animal welfare standards. Version 3 June 2016 Where to go for further Information ASOS policy and process ASOS CR Team: [email protected] General animal welfare information Compassion: https://www.ciwf.org.uk/farm_animals/default.aspx PETA: http://www.peta.org.uk/issues/animals-are-not-ours-to-wear/ WSPA: http://www.wspa.org.uk/wspaswork/factoryfarming/ RSPCA: http://www.rspca.org.uk/allaboutanimals/farm Steps you can take Avoid 1. Always check the species. Ask for the animal’s common and Latin name Good Better Exotic, endangered, unborn or aborted animals, fur, rabbit hair, mulesed merino wool, down or feathers not certified by Responsible Down Standard, products tested on animals Best Permitted animals raised under conditions of good animal husbandry Consider synthetic alternatives If unfamiliar with the species review Endangered Species section for next steps 2. Check the country of origin (ask where the animal was reared and slaughtered) Refer to relevant animal material section Refer to relevant animal material section Refer to relevant animal material section Refer to relevant animal material section 3. Check producer animal welfare standards. Ask: -Does the producer have any higher animal welfare or organic farming certifications? -Does the producer follow the five freedoms? Producer with no or minimal knowledge of animal welfare issues and standards Animals have access to the outdoors Any producer that follows the OIE Animal Health Codes Higher animal welfare schemes: Holland: Beter Leven (Better life) UK: RSPCA Freedom Food Scheme US: Animal Welfare Approved Standard US: GAP 5-Step Organic certification: UK/Global: Soil Association Global: Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) US: USDA NOP Organic Certification EU: EEC Organic Regulation 834/2007 Japan: Japan Agricultural Standard (JAS) 4. Check the product is clearly labelled Product not labelled with species of animal used Product labelled with species of animal used Product labelled with country of origin where the animal was reared and the species of animal used Product labelled with country of origin where the animal was reared, the species of animal used, whether or not the animal is a by-product of the meat industry Synthetic materials mimicking animal parts should be clearly labelled as synthetic. 3 Version 3 June 2016 ENDANGERED SPECIES What the policy says Vulnerable and endangered species appearing on either the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) or the Convention of International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) lists must not be used in ASOS Products. Why this is important Endangered species: The illegal trade in animals and plants to make clothing, medicine and ornaments, together with habitat destruction and climate change, is driving species to extinction 1000-10,000 times faster than the natural rate of extinction. Without a wide variety of species or biodiversity the ecosystems that provide oxygen, food and fresh water are not able to function properly. IUCN and CITES: The IUCN, the world’s largest global conservation network and CITES, an international agreement to control trade in animals and plants, compile and regularly update lists of the most threatened species, in order to protect them and prevent them from being traded. Illegal wildlife trade hotspots: Despite international protection, trade in endangered species is on the rise, particularly in illegal trade hotspots such as China's international borders, East/Southern Africa and South-east Asia, the eastern borders of the EU, Mexico, parts of the Caribbean (Dominican Republic, particularly), parts of Indonesia and New Guinea, and the Solomon Islands. Endangered species traded for fashion and cosmetic purposes include: Big cats: Jaguars, leopards, ocelots and tigers are killed for their skin, teeth, claws and jaws to make coats, jewellery and ornaments. Elephants & rhino: The illegal poaching of elephants and rhinos to supply demand for ivory to make jewellery, and carvings, is on the increase in Africa and Asia. Perfume ingredients derived from vulnerable and endangered species: Ambergris from whales, castor or castoreum from beavers, hyraceum from hyraxes, musk from musk deer and civet cat excretions are used as fixatives in some perfumes. Tibetan antelope or chiru: The hair from the endangered chiru is very valuable and is made into expensive shawls known as shahtoosh. Chirus have to be killed in order to obtain their hair. Refer to the US Fish & Wildlife Service guidelines (see further information section) to help identify shahtoosh from other materials. Tropical hardwoods: Tropical forest loss due to unsustainable and illegal logging is contributing to a mass extinction of species. Tropical hardwoods, although mainly used in construction, can be made into jewellery or jewellery boxes. Refer to Greenpeace’s Good Wood Guide for alternatives (see further information section). Turtles: The shell or tortoiseshell from turtles is made into highly polished jewellery, combs, boxes and other decorative items. 4 Version 3 June 2016 Products that may contain endangered species Products that may contain parts of endangered species, such as bone, coral, pearls, fur, horn, shells, skins, teeth and tropical hardwoods include: shawls, coats, fur, items with fur trims, jewellery, jewellery boxes, combs, ornaments, handbags, shoes, purses, gloves, cosmetics and perfumes. Where to go for further Information ASOS policy and process ASOS CR Team: [email protected] Identifying threatened status of species IUCN: www.iucnredlist.org CITES: http://www.cites.org Animal Health Agency (UK): http://animalhealth.defra.gov.uk/cites/index.htm Identification of shahtoosh US Wildlife & Fish Services: http://www.lab.fws.gov/idnotes/shahtoosh-web.pdf Alternatives to tropical hardwoods Greenpeace’s Good Wood Guide: http://www.greenpeace.org/international/PageFiles/25698/6759.pdf General information about endangered species and the wildlife trade CAFT: http://www.cawtglobal.org/ WWF: http://wwf.panda.org/what_we_do/endangered_species/ Steps you can take Avoid Good Better Best 1. Ask what kind of plant or animal is used in the product. Ask for the animal’s common and Latin name. Do not source products that contain species that cannot be identified Animals reared for the food industry under good animal husbandry conditions Plants from certified sustainable sources, such as FSC wood 2. Check the conservation status if you are unfamiliar with the species Any species that appears on the IUCN and CITES threatened species lists Any species where you are uncertain of the conservation status If you are unable to confirm the conservation status of the species contact the Animal Health Agency for clarification (UK only) or IUCN or CITES (rest of world) -contact info above 3. Ask where the animal was reared and slaughtered or where the plant was harvested Carefully check any products sourced from the illegal wildlife trade hotspots mentioned on the previous page 4. Report any suspicions 5. Check the product is clearly labelled Report any suspected products containing endangered species to the CR team (contact info above) Product not labelled with species of animal or plant used Product labelled with species of animal or plant used Product labelled with country of origin and the species of animal or plant used Product labelled with country of origin, the species of animal or plant used, whether or not the animal is a by-product of the meat industry Synthetic materials mimicking animal parts should be clearly labelled as synthetic 5 Version 3 June 2016 FUR What the policy says Real fur or pelts must not be used in ASOS Products. This includes Karakul lambskin pelts from aborted or newborn lambs and Mongolian lambs fur. Why this is important ASOS does not use fur in its products and or sell other branded fur items because of the cruel practices associated with the rearing and slaughter of animals used for fur production. Battery farms: Fifty million1 animals are farmed and killed each year for their fur. Most are raised in small, individual wire cages on farms with poor animal welfare standards. Often the slaughter methods used to preserve the pelts, such as electrocution or poisoning, are particularly inhumane, and may not kill the animal directly before it is processed. Trapping: Traps set to capture wild animals for their fur indiscriminately injure and kill approximately ten million2 animals a year, including pets and endangered species. Karakul: The production of Karakul3, the prized soft fur from young lambs involves, either killing the lamb when it is only 1-3 days old, or killing the ewe whilst she is pregnant and removing the foetus. Mongolian lambs fur: The traditional method of slaughter carried out in Mongolia is considered inhumane. An incision is made below the ribs, putting a hand inside the chest and tearing or pinching the aorta without any prestunning. Mongolia does not regulate slaughter practices and there is no system in place to monitor the nomadic sheep herders’ welfare standards. Angora and other rabbit hair: Angora and other rabbit hair must not be used in ASOS Products. The majority of rabbit hair comes from Chinese farms, many with poor animal welfare practices, including live plucking, a stressful and painful procedure which involves pulling out the rabbit’s hair whilst it is still alive (see the Angora & Other Rabbit Hair section for further information). Misleading labelling: Investigators from animal welfare organisations have found that some products deliberately labelled as fake fur, particularly fur trimmed items from China, actually contained real fur. In some instances, the fur has been found to come from cats4, dogs5 and endangered species. Real fur trims can be difficult to identify, as they are often not labelled, and the garments they can be found on are cheap misleading buyers into thinking the fur is fake. Products that may contain fur or fake fur The following products may contain fur, fur trims or fur accessories: gloves, hats, ear muffs, scarves, handbags, purses, boots, shoes, coats, jackets, gilets, sweaters, hair accessories, belts and buttons. 6 1 2 3 WSPA 2014 CAFT 2014 Be aware that Karakul lambskin fur has several names. The fur from foetal lambs is called karakulcha, cha or broadtail. Fur from newborn lambs is known as karacul, caracul, qaraqul, astrakhan, swakara, swartkoppersie krimmer, nakara, blackhead Persian or Persian pelts. 4 Cat fur is known by several names including katzenfelle and goyangi. 5 Dog fur may be labelled as gae-wolf, goupee, or sobaki. Version 3 June 2016 Where to go for further information ASOS policy and process ASOS CR Team: [email protected] ASOS Technical Services Team: Womenswear: [email protected] Menswear: [email protected] Fur trade and fashion PETA: http://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-clothing/fur/ Respect for animals: http://www.respectforanimals.co.uk/home/ The Humane Society: http://www.humanesociety.org/issues/fur_fashion/ Karakul PETA: http://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-clothing/other-animals-used-for-their-skins.aspx The Humane Society: http://www.humanesociety.org/assets/pdfs/fur/karakul_report.pdf Identifying real from fake fur ASOS’ Identifying Faux From Real Fur Guide can be found on the intranet and on the supplier extranet Fur free retailers and suppliers Fur Free Retailers: http://www.furfreeretailer.com/ PETA fake fur retailers: http://www.peta.org/living/fashion/cruelty-free-clothing-guide/cruelty-freeclothing-guide-alternatives/ Steps you can take Avoid 1. Check the product, including trims and accessories, does not contain real fur. Ask: what type of material the product, trim and accessories are made of? Any animal fur Karakul Mongolian lamb fur Rabbit hair Any product including trims & accessories, that looks like fur and is not labelled fake fur, or that is labelled fake fur but you suspect is real fur 2. Check the country of origin (ask where is the item sourced from?) Pay close attention to fake fur products or unlabelled fur type products from China, Mongolia, Taiwan and Philippines 3. Check the product is clearly labelled Unlabelled products Products labelled fake fur but are suspected to be real. Use the faux from real fur guidelines for clarification. Good Better Best Fine synthetic or acrylic polymers are good alternative materials to fur Review identifying Faux from Real Guide if you are unsure If still undecided, contact ASOS’ Technical Services Team If product does contain real fur inform the ASOS CR team All products containing fake fur, including trims and accessories to be labelled as fake fur 7 Version 3 June 2016 ANGORA & OTHER RABIT HAIR What the policy says Angora and other rabbit hair must not be used in ASOS Products. Why this is important Rabbits are the fourth most farmed animal in the world but have very limited protection under animal welfare laws. ASOS does not use angora or other rabbit hair in its products or sell other branded rabbit hair items on its website because of the poor welfare conditions many rabbits are kept under, and because of the cruel practices used to harvest rabbit hair. Factory farms: Most rabbits are reared on factory farms in China (the largest angora producer), France, Italy and Spain, where they are kept in small individual cages to preserve their coats. The wire cages can damage the rabbits’ feet, and deny them of important physical and behavioural needs, such as hopping, digging, socialising or grooming. Live plucking and shearing: The harvesting of angora by live plucking occurs on approximately 50% of farms in China, according to a recent PETA investigation. Live plucking or shearing, procedures which both involve strapping a rabbit to a board to keep its skin taut, can cause the rabbit extreme distress and injury and leave them exposed to cold temperatures and illnesses. Slaughter: When angora rabbits are past their prime they are normally killed for their pelts. Prior to slaughter, rabbits are likely to be hung upside down unsupported, causing them stress and possible injury. Research has shown that rabbits may be incorrectly stunned or not stunned at all, and as a result, processed whilst they are still alive. Products containing rabbit hair Products that may contain rabbit hair include: hats, gloves, scarves, coats, jackets, sweaters, socks, arm and leg warmers, ear muffs, hair accessories and trims on boots, jackets, hats, gloves and bags. Where to go for further Information ASOS policy & process ASOS CR Team: [email protected] Endangered Species section of these Guidelines Animal welfare standards Animal Welfare Approved Standards: http://animalwelfareapproved.org/standards/rabbit-2014/ World Organisation for Animal Health (OIE): http://www.oie.int/international-standard-setting/terrestrialcode/ Rabbit welfare PETA: http://action.peta.org.uk/ea-action/action?ea.client.id=5&ea.campaign.id=23870 Compassion in World Farming: 8 http://ciwf.org.uk/farm_animals/rabbits/higher_welfare_alternatives.aspx RSPCA: http://www.rspca.org.uk/allaboutanimals/farm/rabbits/farming Version 3 June 2016 Steps you can take Avoid 1. Check the product, including trims and accessories, does not contain real rabbit hair (ask what the product, trim and accessories are made of? If it’s animal material ask which species the hair comes from) Rabbit hair Any product including trims & accessories, that looks like rabbit and is not labelled fake fur, or that is labelled fake fur but you suspect is real fur 2. Check the country of origin (ask where is the item sourced from?) Pay close attention to fake fur products or unlabelled fur type products from China, Taiwan and Philippines 3. Check the product is clearly labelled Unlabelled products Products labelled fake fur but are suspected to be real Good Better Best Fine synthetic or acrylic polymers are good alternative materials to fur Review identifying Faux from Real Guide if you are unsure If still undecided, contact ASOS’ Technical Services Team If product does contain real fur inform the ASOS CR team All products containing fake fur, including trims and accessories to be labelled as fake fur 9 Version 3 June 2016 LEATHER & SKIN What the policy says • Only cow, buffalo, sheep, goat or pig leather or skin, sourced as a by-product of the meat industry and from producers with good animal husbandry can be used in our products. • Leather or skin must not be obtained whilst the animal is still alive or from aborted animals. • Leather or skin must not be obtained from animals kept in confinement in veal or sow crates. • Leather or skin from wild-caught animals, exotic animals or vulnerable and endangered species must not be used in our products. Why this is important Meat industry by-product: Animals should not be killed specifically for their skins. Leather and skin should be sourced from animals that were reared for the meat industry, by producers who maintain good animal welfare standards. Over sixty five billion6 animals are slaughtered each year for their meat. Many are reared inside on factory farms with poor animal welfare standards. Aborted animals: Calf leather, called slink, and lamb skin known as karakul, from purposefully or otherwise aborted animals, are used to make luxurious items such as coats, gloves, bags and trims and should not be used in ASOS products. Live skinning: Evidence from animal welfare organisations has shown that in some slaughterhouses animals are inhumanely killed, and on occasion, are still alive when processing begins. Some animals, such as snakes and lizards, are intentionally skinned alive because it is believed this makes the leather more supple. Veal and sow creates: Calves raised for veal are often kept in solitary confinement or veal crates. The crates are designed to prevent movement to ensure the calf’s meat is pale and tender when slaughtered. Veal crates have been banned in many parts of the world. Sows are often kept in narrow crates for their entire lives to prevent them from fighting. Sow crates are being phased out gradually in many countries because of the health and welfare issues associated with keeping pigs in confinement. Exotic and endangered animals: There are welfare issues associated with how farmed exotic animals are reared, transported and slaughtered, and how wild animals are captured or killed. Ostrich leather must not be used in our products because ostriches are generally reared for their skin and are therefore not a meat industry by-product. There are also substantial welfare issues associated with the rearing, transportation and slaughter of these birds. The accidental or intentional trapping of endangered species for their skins is also an ongoing problem. Regional standards: China: According to PETA, some skins originating from China are intentionally mislabelled and have been found to derive from cats and dog fur farms. 10 India: Cows are revered animals in India and their slaughter is banned in many states. As a consequence cattle are transported, on foot or in crowded trucks, over long distances to 6 Compassion in World Farming 2014 Version 3 June 2016 slaughterhouses, many of them operating illegally under unsanitary, polluting and inhumane conditions. South America: Uruguay is emerging as the South American leader for its cattle welfare, transportation and slaughter standards. Argentina and Brazil have also recently implemented welfare standards for cattle. When sourcing leather from this region ensure it does not come from cattle raised in the Amazon biome (mainly the Brazilian Amazon, as well as parts of Peru, Colombia and Bolivia). Livestock production is responsible for 65-80% of deforestation in the Amazon. Products containing leather or skin Products that may contain leather or skin include: jackets, coats, skirts, dresses, trousers, shoes, shoe inner soles, bags, purses, wallets, gloves, hats, hair accessories, jewellery, watch straps, buttons and belts. Where to go for further Information ASOS policy & process ASOS CR Team: [email protected] Animal welfare standards Global Round Table for Sustainable Beef: http://www.saiplatform.org/uploads/Modules/Library/saiplatform-principles-for-sustainable-beef-farming-final.pdf Soil Association Organic Hide, Leather and Skin: http://www.soilassociation.org/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=0IbGn2DRZAo=&tabid=353 Animal Welfare Approved Standards (US): http://www.animalwelfareapproved.org/standards/ RSPCA Freedom Foods (UK): http://www.freedomfood.co.uk/industry/rspca-welfare-standards Farmed animals Compassion in World Farming: http://www.raw.info/the-problem/animal-cruelty RSPCA: http://www.rspca.org.uk/allaboutanimals/farm/-/article/FAD_AllAboutAnimalsFarmAnimals Faux leather suppliers PETA: http://www.peta.org/living/fashion/cruelty-free-clothing-guide/cruelty-free-clothing-guidealternatives/ 11 Version 3 June 2016 Steps you can take Avoid Good Better Best 1. Check the species. Ask for the animal’s common and Latin name. Remember to check to see if shoe inner soles are made of leather Exotic, endangered & some 7, domestic species* unborn or aborted animals (slink from unborn calves) Mongolian sheep/goats should be avoided. If unfamiliar with the species review Endangered Species section for next steps Cow, buffalo, sheep, goat or pig reared, transported and slaughtered under conditions of good animal husbandry Synthetic alternatives to leather include: pleather, poromeric imitation leather (Corfam), koskin, leatherette, Birko-Flor. 2. Check if the leather or skin is a byproduct of the meat industry. Ask what purpose the animal was reared for. If the skin is from calves or pigs ask whether the animals were confined in individual crates Leather or skin that is not a byproduct of the meat industry Leather or skin from veal calves or sows reared in crates Leather or skin that is a byproduct of the meat industry 3. Check the country of origin. Ask where the animal was reared and slaughtered Africa, most of India (transportation and slaughter) China (poor animal welfare standards, possibility skin is from cat or dog) Mongolia (poor animal welfare and lack of traceability) Amazon biome (parts of Brazil, Bolivia, Colombia, Peru) US (veal and sow crates banned in a small number of states) EU continent Uruguay, Argentina, Brazil (not Amazon regions) UK, Ireland 4. Check producer animal welfare standards. Ask: -Does the producer have any animal welfare or organic farming certifications? -Does the producer follow the five freedoms? -Was the animal reared indoors? How was it transported & slaughtered?) Producer with no or minimal knowledge of animal welfare issues and standards Animals have access to pasture Any producer that follows the OIE Animal Health Codes Global Round Table for Sustainable Beef (new environmental and animal welfare standard) Soil Association Organic Standard for Hides, Leather and Skin (new standard) UK: RSPCA Freedom Food scheme US: Animal Welfare Approved Standard EU: EEC Organic Regulation 5. Check the product containing leather or skin is clearly labelled -Product not labelled with species of animal used Product labelled with species of animal used Product labelled with country of origin where the animal was reared and the species of animal used Product labelled with country of origin where the animal was reared, the species of animal used, whether or not the animal is a by-product of the meat industry Synthetic materials mimicking animal parts should be clearly labelled as synthetic. 12 7 These animals include but are not restricted to: snakes, lizards, crocodiles, alligators, cayman, ostriches, peccory, zebra, sharks and stingray (shageen) (shark and stingray leather is known as galuchat), eel, toads, frogs, seals, cats and dogs (dog skin can be known as special skin, lamb skin or mountain goat skin). Version 3 June 2016 LEATHER & SKIN WOOL What the policy says • Sheep and lambs’ wool must be sourced from producers with good animal husbandry. • Merino wool used in ASOS Products must not be sourced from farmers who practice mulesing. Why this is important Although most sheep are generally reared outdoors in less intensive farming systems than cows, pigs, chickens, rabbits, ducks and geese, many still face significant welfare issues. Lameness: Lameness, caused by bacterial infection is one of the major welfare problems in sheep. In many flocks not enough is being done to prevent or successfully treat lameness. Transportation: Live sheep and lambs are transported in large numbers around the world on overcrowded ships or trucks to be sold and slaughtered. These journeys may take weeks, and without inadequate food, water, space and rest many sheep fall ill or die during the journey. Procedures without painkillers: Sheep are often subjected to painful procedures such as castration, tail docking or mulesing without painkillers. Shearing: Shearing can be stressful, cause injury and may be carried out with little regard for the animal’s welfare, leaving sheep exposed to cold temperatures and to illness. Mulesing: Mulesing is a procedure undertaken to reduce the risk of fly strike in merino sheep, carried out, in many cases, without pain relief. It involves cutting away flesh from the sheep’s rump in an attempt to produce a smooth wool-free area that is less attractive to flies. Mulesing is banned in New Zealand and South Africa in favour of less painful methods of flystrike prevention, but is still a continued practice in Australia. Products containing wool Products that may contain wool include: coats, jackets, dresses, skirts, jumpers, cardigans, trousers, socks, hats, gloves, scarves, arm and leg warmers and tights. Where to go for further Information ASOS policy & process ASOS CR Team: [email protected] Endangered Species section of these Guidelines Animal welfare standards 13 NewMerino® (sustainable farming & animal standards): http://newmerino.com.au/wp/q-a/ National Wool Declaration (non-mulesed) http://www.awex.com.au:publications:national-wooldeclaration-nwd.html Global Organic Textile Standards Wool: http://www.global-standard.org/the-standard/generaldescription.html Version 3 June 2016 Animal Welfare Approved Standards: http://animalwelfareapproved.org/standards/sheep-2014/ RSPCA Freedom Foods: http://www.rspca.org.uk/freedomfood Sheep welfare Compassion in World Farming: http://www.ciwf.org.uk/farm_animals/sheep/welfare_issues.aspx RSPCA: http://www.rspca.org.uk/allaboutanimals/farm/sheep/keyissues Animal aid: http://www.animalaid.org.uk/h/n/CAMPAIGNS/vegetarianism/ALL/501/ Steps you can take Avoid 1. Check the species. Ask for the animal’s common and Latin name Shahtoosh and wool from other endangered species. Angora or other rabbit hair If unfamiliar with the species review Endangered Species section for next steps Mongolian sheep/goats should be avoided 2. If Merino wool, check how flystrike is prevented. Ask which procedures are used to prevent flystrike Producers who practice mulesing 3. Check the country of origin. Ask where the sheep were reared and slaughtered. 4. Check producer animal welfare standards. Ask: -Does the producer have any animal welfare or organic farming certifications? -Does the producer follow the five freedoms? -Was care taken during the shearing process? How were they transported & slaughtered? Producer with no or minimal knowledge of animal welfare issues and standards 5. Check the product containing wool is clearly labelled Product not labelled with species of animal used Good Better Best Sheep reared, transported and slaughtered under conditions of good animal husbandry Synthetic alternatives to merino wool: polyester fleece, synthetic shearling, Tencel, Polar Tec Wind Pro, nylon, acrylic Use of clips and intrajectables (topical proteinbased treatments which kill wool follicles), insecticide treatment Selective sheep breeding to produce smoother rump (i.e. plain-bodied merino sheep) UK, New Zealand, South Africa (Merino), Australia (Newmerino certified or NWD non-mulesed merino wool only) Africa Australia (mulesed wool) China Mongolia Product labelled with species of animal used Any producer that follows the OIE Animal Health Codes or the International Wool Textile Organisation’s sheep welfare guidelines Newmerino certified Global: Global Organic Textile Standard NWD non mulesed (NM) or ceased mulesed (CM) wool UK: RSPCA Freedom Food Scheme US: Animal Welfare Approved Standard EU: EEC Organic Regulation 834/2007 Product labelled with country of origin where the animal was reared and the species of animal used Product labelled with country of origin where the animal was reared and the species of animal used Synthetic materials mimicking animal parts should be clearly labelled as synthetic. 14 Version 3 June 2016 CASHMERE & MOHAIR What the policy says • Cashmere and mohair used in ASOS Products must be sourced from producers with good animal husbandry. • Hair must not be harvested by live plucking. Why this is important Increased demand for cashmere (the soft undercoat of a goat, usually a cashmere goat) and mohair (from the angora goat) has led farmers, particularly in Asia to abandon traditional sustainable husbandry methods, in favour of high volume production. This has resulted in a decrease in animal welfare standards and an increase in environmental problems dues to overgrazing. Procedures without pain relief: According to many animal welfare organisations goats may be subjected to painful procedures, such as dehorning and castration, without anaesthesia. Live plucking and shearing: Hair that is harvested from goats by live plucking or shearing can cause the animal distress and injury, and leave them particularly susceptible to cold temperatures and illnesses. Goats should not be forcibly restrained and should be shorn upright. Killing of unwanted animals: According to PETA, 50-80% of young goats whose coats do not meet the expected quality standards are slaughtered before they reach the age of two. Environmental Issues: In China and Mongolia, the two largest producers of cashmere, extensive overgrazing by cashmere goats has led to land degeneration, resulting in desertification, dust storms and increased levels of pollution. Products containing goat’s hair Products that may contain cashmere and mohair include: hats, gloves, scarves, coats, jackets, sweaters, socks, arm and leg warmers, ear muffs, hair accessories and trims on boots, jackets, hats, gloves and bags. Where to go for further Information ASOS policy & process ASOS CR Team: [email protected] Endangered Species section of these Guidelines Animal welfare standards Global Organic Textile Standards: http://www.global-standard.org/the-standard/generaldescription.html Animal Welfare Approved Standards: http://animalwelfareapproved.org/standards/goat-2014/ 15 Goat welfare issues NRDC: http://www.nrdc.org/international/cleanbydesign/files/CBD_FiberFacts_Cashmere.pdf The Vegan Society: http://www.vegsoc.org/page.aspx?pid=528 Action for our planet: http://www.actionforourplanet.com/#/wool/4548164102 Version 3 June 2016 Steps you can take Avoid Good Better Best 1. Check the species. Ask for the animal’s common and Latin name Hair from endangered species If unfamiliar with the species review Endangered Species section of these guidelines for next steps Goats reared, transported and slaughtered under conditions of good animal husbandry Synthetic alternatives to animal hair include: polyester fleece, synthetic shearling, Tencel, Polar Tec Wind Pro, nylon, acrylic 2. Check the country of origin. Ask where the animal was reared and slaughtered Mongolia and China UK, US, South Africa 3. Check producer animal welfare standards. Ask: -Does the producer have any animal welfare or organic farming certifications? -Does the producer follow the five freedoms? -Do the goats have access to fresh food and water, company and exercise? Are they tethered? How were they transported & slaughtered? Producer with no or minimal knowledge of animal welfare issues and standards Producers who keep animals tethered Any producer that follows the OIE Animal Health Codes Global: Global Organic Textile Standard UK/Global: Soil Association Organic Certification US: Animal Welfare Approved Standard US: USDA NOP Organic certified EU: EEC Organic Regulation 834/2007 4. Check how the hair is harvested. Ask: -How is the hair is collected? -If by shearing, ask how stress to the goat is minimised) Live plucking Shearing best practice: -performed by an expert handler -equipment is well maintained -stress to the animal is minimised (no tethering) -not done during winter in cold environments Hair collected during gentle combing 5. Check the product containing goat’s hair is clearly labelled Product not labelled with species of animal used Product labelled with country of origin where the animal was reared and the species of animal used Product labelled with country of origin where the animal was reared and the species of animal used Synthetic materials mimicking animal parts should be clearly labelled as synthetic. Product labelled with species of animal used 16 Version 3 June 2016 OTHER ANIMAL HAIR What the policy says • Only cow, buffalo, yak, horse, goat, pig and alpaca hair from producers with good animal husbandry can be used in our products. • Hair must not be harvested by live plucking. • Hair from vulnerable or endangered species must not be used in our products. Why this is important Procedures without pain relief: Many animals are subjected to painful procedures, such as dehorning, castration and tail docking without anaesthesia. Live plucking and shearing: Hair that is harvested from animal by live plucking or shearing can cause distress and injury, and leave the animal particularly susceptible to cold temperatures and illnesses. Alpaca: Three quarters of all alpaca are raised in Peru. However, alpaca hair is more waterproof, softer, more durable and warmer than sheep’s wool which has led to an increase in demand for alpaca farms in other parts of the world, including the US and Europe. PETA claim the influx of alpaca into these other markets has led to the neglect, abuse and abandonment of animals that are unable to breed. Endangered and wild species: Shahtoosh: The hair from the endangered Tibetan antelope or chiru is very valuable and is made into expensive shawls known as shahtoosh. Chirus cannot be domesticated and have to be killed in order to obtain their hair. Vicuñas: Vicuñas live in the South American Andes and are related to camels and llamas. Vicuña hair is one of the most expensive materials used to make clothing. To obtain their wool, wild vicuñas are typically herded into a V-shaped “funnel trap”, are shorn and then tagged without pain relief. Normally hair is only left on the animals’ bellies and chests, leaving them susceptible to the extremes of temperature in the Andes Products containing animal hair Products that may contain animal hair include: hats, gloves, scarves, coats, jackets, sweaters, socks, trousers, suits, arm and leg warmers, ear muffs, hair accessories and trims on boots, jackets, hats, gloves and bags. Where to go for further Information ASOS policy & process ASOS CR Team: [email protected] 17 Endangered Species section of these Guidelines Animal welfare standards Global Organic Textile Standards: http://www.global-standard.org/the-standard/generaldescription.html Animal Welfare Approved Standards: http://animalwelfareapproved.org/standards Version 3 June 2016 Identification of shahtoosh US Wildlife & Fish Services: http://www.lab.fws.gov/idnotes/shahtoosh-web.pdf Welfare issues PETA: http://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-clothing/animals-used-skins/ NRDC Alpaca: http://www.nrdc.org/international/cleanbydesign/files/CBD_FiberFacts_Alpaca.pdf Action for our planet: http://www.actionforourplanet.com/#/wool/4548164102 Steps you can take Avoid Good Better Best 1. Check the species. Ask for the animal’s common and Latin name Hair from endangered species such as chirus Hair from wild and exotic animals such as vicunas If unfamiliar with the species review Endangered Species section of these guidelines for next steps Cow, buffalo, yak, horse, goat, pig and alpaca reared, transported and slaughtered under good welfare conditions Synthetic alternatives to animal hair include: polyester fleece, synthetic shearling, Tencel, Polar Tec Wind Pro, nylon, acrylic 2. Check the country of origin. Ask where the animal was reared and slaughtered China India (cow and buffalo) UK, EU, New Zealand, Australia 3. Check producer animal welfare standards. Ask: -Does the producer have any animal welfare or organic farming certifications? -Do the animals have access to fresh food and water, company and exercise? -Are they tethered? How were they transported & slaughtered? Producer with no or minimal knowledge of animal welfare issues and standards Producers who keep animals tethered Any producer that follows the OIE Animal Health Codes UK/Global: Soil Association Organic Certification US: Animal Welfare Approved Standard US: USDA NOP Organic certified EU: EEC Organic Regulation 834/2007 Global: Global Organic Textile Standard 4. Check how the hair is harvested. Ask: -How is the hair is collected? -If by shearing, how stress to the animal is minimised) Live plucking Shearing best practice: -performed by an expert handler -equipment is well maintained -stress to the animal is minimised (no tethering) -not done during winter in cold environments Hair collected during gentle combing 5. Check the product containing animal hair is clearly labelled Product not labelled with species of animal used Product labelled with country of origin where the animal was reared and the species of animal used Product labelled with country of origin where the animal was reared and the species of animal used Synthetic materials mimicking animal parts should be clearly labelled as synthetic. Product labelled with species of animal used 18 Version 3 June 2016 FEATHERS & DOWN What the policy says • Feathers and down must not be used in our own-label products. This includes down insulated garments, as well as feathers used in trims, jewellery and other accessories. • Only products from brands that have provided evidence to demonstrate an active commitment to sourcing Responsible Down Standard (RDS) certified down, or other similar robust standards assessed and agreed by ASOS on an individual basis, can be sold on ASOS.com. Why this is important ASOS does not use down or feather in our own label products, including garments and accessories because of the cruel practices associated with the rearing, feather harvesting and slaughter of ducks and geese, as described in the sections below. Responsible Down Standard: ASOS will only sell products from brands on its website that have provided evidence [see Steps you can take table] that they are working towards sourcing Responsible Down Standard (RDS) certified down. The new global RDS, launched in 2014, has been designed to ensure feathers and down are sourced from responsibly treated geese and ducks, and provides traceability assurance back to farm level. The first products containing responsible down will be available in A/W 2015. Patagonia: The only other standard ASOS currently accepts is Patagonia’s Traceable Down Standard. The standard was created to ensure all of Patagonia’s independent third-party verification and certification audits are completed to the same principles, scope, and methodology, in terms of animal welfare and traceability. Foie gras: Foie gras production is illegal in the UK but still occurs in France, Hungary, Bulgaria, Spain and Belgium. Ducks and geese are kept individually in small wire cages and are forced fed 2-3 times a day, in order to unnaturally enlarge the liver. Force feeding, aside from being extremely stressful, prevents the bird from carrying out its normal behaviours, damages the throat and can cause the liver to stop working. Live plucking: Live plucking causes geese and ducks unnecessary pain and distress. During plucking birds are physically restrained and are often wounded. Although live plucking is illegal in the EU and the US, it is a continued practice in the three top down producing countries, China, Germany, Hungary, Russia and Ukraine. Research by PETA suggests between 50-80% of down comes from live plucked birds. Endangered species: Peacocks are a protected species in India. However, the demand for peacock feathers has led to an increase in poaching and a serious decline in the peacock population. The country is in the process of banning the sale, trade and transport of peacock feathers. Products containing feathers or down Products that may contain feathers or down include: trims or accessories on dresses, jumpers, lingerie, wraps, hats and fascinators, jewellery, down jackets, gloves and body warmers and feather boas. 19 Where to go for further Information ASOS policy & process ASOS CR Team: [email protected] Version 3 June 2016 ASOS Technical Services Team: Womenswear: [email protected] Menswear: [email protected] Endangered Species section of these Guidelines Animal welfare standards Responsible Down Standard: http://textileexchange.org/sites/default/files/te_pdfs/integrity/TE Responsible Down Standard v1.pdf Patagonia Traceable Down Standard: http://www.patagonia.com/pdf/en_US/PATAGONIA_TRACEABLE_DOWN_STANDARD_121013.pdf Foie gras and live plucking PETA: http://www.peta.org/features/investigation/ Four paws: http://www.four-paws.org.uk/campaigns/farm-animals/live-feather-plucking/ RSPCA: http://www.rspca.org.uk/allaboutanimals/farm/poultry/ducks/keyissues Steps you can take Avoid Good Better Best 1. Certification required Any product not certified under the Responsible Down Standard or Patagonia’s Traceable Down Standard We prefer to use alternative synthetic materials for down filling include: Primaloft, Pureloft, Thermolite, polyester fill, Thermal R, Omni-Heat. Aerogel, Polarguard, Thermore, Fiberfill, Thermaball Feathers and down certified under the Responsible Down Standard or Patagonia’s Traceable Down Standard. 3. Check producer animal welfare standards and certification. Ask: -Can the producer provide evidence to show they are committed to sourcing Responsible Down Standard or Patagonia standard? Any product not certified under the Responsible Down Standard or Patagonia’s Traceable Down Standard Factory certification If producer is in the process of applying for RDS or is working towards complying with RDS ask to see their completed RDS application form and/or contact the RDS team at Control Union for clarification: [email protected] If the producer is a certified RDS producer ask to see their scope certificate which states they are able to produce under the RDS label. 4. Check the product containing down or feathers is clearly labelled Product not labelled with species of animal used Product not certified under RDS and not labelled. Synthetic materials mimicking animal parts should be clearly labelled as synthetic Product labelled with Responsible Down Standard logo or Patagonia’s Traceable Down Standard 20 Version 3 June 2016 ANIMAL TESTING What the policy says • ASOS is opposed to animal testing on cosmetics. • ASOS does not produce its own brand cosmetics, and in accordance with EU ban that came into effect on 11th March 2013 ASOS does not sell branded cosmetics that have been tested on animals. Why this is important EU ban: Europe is the world’s largest cosmetic market. Animal testing on products and ingredients is banned in the EU (& Norway). In addition a complete ban on the sale of cosmetics developed through animal testing is now in effect. The testing ban on finished cosmetic products applies since 11 September 2004; the testing ban on ingredients or combination of ingredients applies since 11 March 2009. The marketing ban applies since 11 March 2009 for all human health effects with the exception of repeated-dose toxicity, reproductive toxicity and toxicokinetics. For these specific health effects the marketing ban applies since 11 March 2013, irrespective of the availability of alternative non-animal tests. Rest of the world: Israel is the only other country that has banned animal testing and the sale of newly animal tested beauty products. India banned in country cosmetic animal testing in 2013 and the government is currently looking at a sales ban. In August 2014 Brazil brought a bill into effect prohibiting the use of animals for cosmetic testing where alternative testing methods have already been established. 80% of countries worldwide, including the US and Asia, still allow animal testing on cosmetics products and ingredients. Although many countries such as Australia, US and New Zealand are looking at implementing bans. China has also announced it plans to remove mandatory animal testing of cosmetics for domestically manufactured products by June 2014. Over time these new rules may be expanded to include imported products and “special" cosmetics defined as hair dyes, deodorants, sunscreen and skin whitening products. Currently imported cosmetic products still need to be tested on animals before they can be sold in China. At the end of 2013 Russia announced it will no longer require cosmetics to be tested on animals and that it will accept cruelty free testing methods. There is no indication that Russia is intending to implement a full testing ban in the near future. Unnecessary tests: In most countries, animal testing is neither required nor prohibited for ordinary cosmetics like makeup and shampoo. To be able to market a cosmetic product a company must demonstrate its safety. These safety checks can be achieved by using approved non-animal tests, and by using ingredients from the list of 15,000 that have already been proven safe for use. Cosmetic tests to check ingredients and products for skin sensitisation, toxicity and carcinogenicity are still, however, being carried out worldwide on thousands of rabbits, guinea pigs, mice and rats every year. Unpredictability of tests: According to animal welfare organisations the safety of ingredients and products tested on animals cannot be guaranteed. Different species can respond differently when exposed to the same chemicals, so results from animal tests may not be relevant to humans, making them unreliable and 21 difficult to interpret. Misleading labels: Animal testing labels are unregulated outside of Europe. Some companies make misleading ‘not tested’ claims on packaging that only relate to testing of the final product and not to the ingredients used in the product, which may have been tested on animals by the ingredient supplier. Version 3 June 2016 Products that may have been tested on animals The following products may have been tested on animals: cosmetics, personal care products, perfume. Where to go for further Information ASOS policy & process ASOS CR Team: [email protected] EU ban EC: http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/sectors/cosmetics/animal-testing/index_en.htm Animal testing issues Cruelty Free International (BUAV): http://www.crueltyfreeinternational.org/en/the-issue PETA: http://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-experimentation/ Animal testing free certification Humane Cosmetic Standard or leaping bunny standard, developed by over 50 animal welfare organisations: http://www.gocrueltyfree.org/consumer/the-leaping-bunny Soil Association Organic Standard: http://www.soilassociation.org/whatisorganic/organicbeauty Animal testing free suppliers Leaping bunny: http://www.gocrueltyfree.org/search?product-type=cosmetics&country=231 Steps you can take Avoid Good Better Best 1. Ask if the product has been tested on animals Any products that have been tested on animals since September 2004 Leaping bunny logo: ECEAE’s Humane Cosmetics Standard is the only internationally recognised scheme 2. Ask if any of the ingredients in the product have been tested on animals Any product with ingredients that have been tested on animals since March 2009 Leaping bunny logo: ECEAE’s Humane Cosmetics Standard is the only internationally recognised scheme 3. Check if the product has achieved any free from animal testing certifications No certification Soil Association Organic Standard Leaping bunny logo: ECEAE’s Humane Cosmetics Standard is the only internationally recognised scheme 4. If the product is labelled free from animal testing check that this includes all of the ingredients as well as the product Products not labelled free from animal testing Soil Association Organic Standard Leaping bunny logo: ECEAE’s Humane Cosmetics Standard is the only internationally recognised scheme 22 Version 3 June 2016
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