FEB RUARY 2017 RUNWAY REAL LIFE THE LATEST “IT GIRL” HAIRCUT FROM COLORPROOF HAS A FEMININE YET EDGY VIBE MAN UP WRITTEN BY Andrea Dawn Clark THE BEST OF BothWorlds THE ADVANTAGES OF HAVING A COSMETOLOGY AND A BARBERING LICENSE barbers—Fernie Andong (@fernthebarber) and Nieves Almaraz (@howtofadehair)—talk about the advantages of having both a cosmetology and a barbering license in the ever-growing world of men’s grooming. Fernie Andong hard at work Fernie Andong Paul Mitchell Barber Specialist His first license… I received my cosmetology license first. One random day after work, I stopped into Paul Mitchell the School and picked up an application. A month later I was enrolled. His desire for a second license… When I was a cosmetology instructor, a student needed help with a skin fade. It was my job to help get the student out of the jam, but no one—including myself—knew how to do a proper fade. We faked our way through it. The client wasn’t happy. And I felt like I failed. I didn’t want to feel like that ever again, so that day after work I enrolled at The Real Barber’s College in Anaheim, CA. His biggest hurdle getting a second license… Transportation. I would have to 54 americansalon.com February 2017 Paul Mitchell’s Fernie Andong styling a long-hair look. catch a bus or bum a ride. Paul Mitchell was very supportive of me going to barber school, knowing the skill set I’d learn would benefit them too. And, at school I would show my peers how to use scissors, because they did not teach that at The Real Barber’s College. In return they would teach me how to do clipper work. His best advice for getting a second license… Watch your ego. Don’t be afraid to be a learner again and ask questions. Save some cash before you go back to school because it does cut into your work schedule. And, ask yourself: Why am I doing this? Don’t do it because it’s cool. You’ve got to really love the craft. His life now with both licenses… Having both licenses allows me to bridge the gap between barbering and cosmetology. And, getting a new license gave me the opportunity to be a learner again. As soon as you stop learning, you stop growing. Nieves Almaraz Wahl Education and Artistic Team member His first license… I received my cosmetology license first, with the intention of learning how to do shear work because I already felt comfortable with clippers. I actually find that funny now; I still apply all those shear-cutting techniques in my classes, but I use clippers instead. His desire for a second license… I wanted to get my barber’s license because in my state you’re required to hold a barber license to use a straight edge razor. Nieves Almaraz His biggest hurdle getting a second license… Balancing time at my own business, Jacob’s Barber Shop in Cicero, IL, and succeeding in school at the same time. His best advice for finding a new school… Do your research and choose the school wisely. It’s important to go to a school with patience and understanding. Some schools even give you credit for having a license already, requiring fewer hours for the program as well as taking money off of your tuition. I also recommend finding a school that offers both day and night classes to accommodate your work schedule. His life now with both licenses… I have several clients that I use both skill sets on during their service. They’re looking for a longer, textured style that is traditionally done by a cosmetologist, along with a short, faded clipper cut on the sides and back, which is a barber’s specialty. I’ve also seen a boost in revenue because I’m able to provide both services in one place. PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF PAUL MITCHELL AND WAHL T WO OF THE INDUSTRY’S top 4 2 5 3 6 BEARD GROOMING NOW THAT YOUR CLIENT HAS MANAGED TO GROW AN EPIC BEARD, SHARE THESE GROOMING TIPS FROM WAHL’S ANDRES "DRE" REYES WITH HIM AND DON’T FORGET TO RECOMMEND THE WAHL TOOL THAT WILL GET THE JOB DONE. 7 1 Comb the beard and remove the tangles with a wide-tooth comb. 2 Use a longer attachment comb on the clipper to trim and shape the beard. Run the clipper with the grain beginning in the sideburn area with the attachment comb touching the face. When you reach the jaw line, pull the clipper straight down, lightly skimming the beard. 3 With no attachment comb on the clipper and the blade closed, cut any unruly hairs that do not want to lay down. Be sure to have a steady hand. You can always use the Wahl 5-Star Hero Trimmer to execute this step. 4 Lift the beard up with a comb or your hand and line the bottom of the beard with the Wahl 5-Star Hero Trimmer. 5 Using just the edge or corner of the blade on your trimmer, line the top of the beard to the style that best fits your client’s face shape. You can start at the top of the beard by the sideburn or in the lip area. 6 Line the back of the beard with your trimmer, either straight down or curved forward or backward depending on beard style. 7 With a wide-tooth comb, lift the beard and shave the stubble. A Wahl 5-Star Finale Shaver will do the job. PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDRES "DRE" REYES FOR WAHL PROFESSIONAL 1 BUSINESS BARBER TALK Rob Ferrel (@robtheoriginal), Master Barber with BaBylissPRO, and Sofie Pok (@staygold31), BaBylissPRO Hair Architect, chat about what it means to be a barber influencer. ROB FERREL: I started on social media to show off my artwork. Then I noticed that I was making connections with people all over the world. People were coming up to me saying they started barbering because of my social media photos. Fifteen clients of mine have become barbers. Cops, teachers— they’re all signing up for barber college. SOFIE POK: It wasn’t until this year that people started coming up to me. I actually get more females because they appreciate me being a vocal person for our smaller community. Being an influencer means your work sparks something in people, it makes them think and gives them courage to try the work themselves. ROB FERREL: I think influencers are also entertainers. An influencer means that people want to see more of your work. What I like about you Sofie is that you’re very careful about what you post. You’ll take 20 minutes to make sure a post is on point. You’re careful with your image and all of your photos are magazine-quality. SOFIE POK: I love that you’re always reinventing yourself. When I met you at Long Beach three years ago you were barely doing designs, just regular hair portraits. But now you’re using ketchup, salt, wood— the list goes on when it comes to the cool, innovative stuff you’re using. ROB FERREL: You have to be creative to be successful on social media. And you have to do the work and build a routine. We know when to do our posts. We know what scenes we need to set up for the day. We know what haircuts we’re going to film. Luckily, a lot of people are stepping their game up on Instagram. I’m running into barbers that are very talented, and I’ve never heard of them before, but they’ve got 150K followers. And that pushes me to keep my game up. 102 americansalon.com February 2017 “A barber has always understood the power of a good story—social media just made his crowd a lot bigger.”—Leen and Bertus, Schorem Barbers (@schorembarbier) It’s midnight here in my Los Angeles penthouse loft. I’ve had a full day of work behind the chair, and I’m thinking about how I got to where I am. Barbering is now a full-on lifestyle, a lifestyle that depends on social media. This platform allows us to build stories and share our thoughts with the world. Something as simple as a #hashtag can change a word into a phenomenon. I’ve been blessed with the opportunity to be a leading influencer in the barbering community. But it wasn’t always this way. I used to think of myself as an underdog. Why? Well, back then it wasn’t “cool” to be a barber. But look at me now, giving advice to the next generation of barbers. My main advice, ask yourself: Why did you choose to do hair? To become an influencer you have to have genuine passion behind your craft. My other advice: freely share and learn knowledge. I believe barbering and hairdressing have now done more than “peek over” each other’s “fences.” We’re now in each other’s “gardens.” Keeping an open mind and broadening my skills established me as a barber influencer. Some argue that #socialmedia has actually made us “unsocial.” I disagree. If it wasn’t for social media, the world wouldn’t know @JuliusCaesar, other than the old Roman ruler. I’ve built myself a brand, and with this brand I have built a credible influence, and it’s an incredible honor I take quite seriously. Sincerely, Julius Caesar PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF BABYLISSPRO; SCHOREM BARBERS; JULIUS CAESAR BAR B E R S BETTER Rob Ferrel and Sofie Pok sharing the stage.
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