Ingleborough Dales Landscape Partnership Stories in Stone Scheme Summary September 2015 Introduction Stories in Stone is an ambitious four-year programme of conservation and community projects that has been developed by the Ingleborough Dales Landscape Partnership. The scheme is concentrated on the stunning limestone landscape around the peak of Ingleborough. Local organisations and communities have been exploring ways of conserving the heritage of the Ingleborough area since 2003 and the Landscape Partnership programme of the Heritage Lottery Fund (HLF) was identified as the most suitable model to achieve these goals. In 2011 public consultation was conducted which confirmed strong local and regional support for a broad programme of initiatives and this led to the formation of a broad partnership working together to develop and implement a landscape-scale scheme – Stories in Stone. The Landscape Partnership is led by the Yorkshire Dales Millennium Trust (YDMT) and includes the Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority, Yorkshire Wildlife Trust, Yorkshire Dales Landscape Research Trust, Natural England, Hanson UK and Lafarge Tarmac. A wider forum of some 30 special interest groups and organisations have provided valuable input into the scheme and will continue to be involved as it evolves. Project ideas provided by partners, the forum and the general public formed the basis of a Stage 1 application, which was submitted to HLF in February 2012. This application was not approved, but encouragement by HLF and strong ongoing support from a wide range of organisations led to a further period of consultation and strengthening of the partnership. The opportunity to review and amend the scheme led to the development of a much more focussed scheme and the re-submitted Stage 1 application was approved by HLF in October 2013. We then began to develop the Stage 2 submission, which involved working up the project ideas into detailed proposals supported by robust costings. Our Stage 2 application was submitted at the end of April 2015 and the HLF Yorkshire and Humber Regional Panel approved it in September 2015. The scheme’s total value of £2.63m will be funded by a HLF grant of £2m and matchfunding of £0.63m, much of which is already secured or is in the form of volunteer time. Ingleborough 1 Stories in Stone This is the story of how a stunning limestone landscape has been exploited and adapted by generations of local people, incomers and visitors. It is a fascinating landscape, with a rich, highly visible archaeological record, an iconic farming pattern of stone-built barns and dry stone walls, scarce limestone habitats and a hidden subterranean world. But it is also a landscape under stress, with four large active quarries, intensive farming and millions of visitors every year. Stories in Stone will connect and coordinate the plans and actions of a range of public, private and community bodies to conserve, enhance and celebrate the unique historical and natural elements of the Ingleborough Dales’ landscape. Through improved access and new learning opportunities, it will enable and inspire a wider range of people to discover, enjoy and contribute to that landscape in a way that ensures a healthy future for this very special place. Consultation and development work has been invaluable for taking forward the ideas and aspirations of a wide-ranging group of organisations, communities and individuals and helping to develop what the scheme will deliver. A genuine community-driven partnership has emerged with a very real sense of ownership over the process and the outcomes that Stories in Stone will deliver. The scheme has 27 projects, some of which have several sub-projects, making a total of around 60 individual projects that the scheme will deliver. The breadth of the projects includes natural, built and cultural heritage restoration, creative and digital interpretation, physical and intellectual access improvements, social inclusion, educational activities, oral histories, digital archiving, volunteering, sustainable transport, benefits to the local economy and skills training. The Waverley on Ribblehead Viaduct, with the mighty Ingleborough in the background 2 The Ingleborough Dales area The scheme covers a rural area of approximately 133 km2 in the south-west corner of North Yorkshire (see map below). The area is roughly triangular, with Ribblehead and its impressive viaduct at its northernmost point, the small market town of Settle to the south, and Ingleton village to the west. The area is centred on the distinctive peak of Ingleborough, arguably the best known of Yorkshire’s famous Three Peaks. It is wholly within the district of Craven (one of the few remaining Celtic place names within the Yorkshire Dales) and almost completely within the Yorkshire Dales National Park. Although a rural area, the urban centres of Bradford, Leeds, Burnley, Blackburn and Lancaster are all only about an hour away. © Crown copyright and database rights 2015 Ordnance Survey 100023740 Additional information © Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority The scheme area Scheme boundary Yorkshire Dales National Park boundary 3 The Ingleborough Dales landscape The scheme area has a strikingly distinctive character – dominated by the underlying influences of its limestone geology, glacial scouring and deposition, and the visible surface impact of human activity through upland livestock farming and quarrying. Yet within this whole is a landscape of remarkable contrasts – between the deep, sheltered dales and the open, exposed, sweeping fells above; between the thousands of walkers on the Pennine Way and the solitude of Clapdale; between the occasional intrusion of blasting from the quarries and the natural sounds of wind, water and birdsong; and between the seemingly wild moorland and the extraordinary engineering feat of the Settle-Carlisle railway and Ribblehead Viaduct. Striking geology The scheme area includes some of the best examples of limestone scenery within the Yorkshire Dales National Park and the UK as a whole. The Great Scar Limestone dominates the scenery around Ingleton and Settle. Above it lie the rocks of the Yoredale series – a repeating succession or cyclothem of layers of limestone, shale and sandstone. Because these rocks have different degrees of resistance to erosion the slopes are stepped, creating the distinctive flat-topped silhouette of Ingleborough. Above the Yoredale series lies Millstone Grit, which is represented by small impervious dark caps on the principal hills. Classic geological faultlines create dramatic variations in the scenery. At Buckhaw Brow near Settle, on the line of the South Craven Fault, there is a striking contrast between the hard limestone scar and the rounded slopes formed on the much weaker Bowland shales. The geology is reflected in the composition of the dry stone walls across the faultlines. The Ingleton Glens include the best exposures in Britain of Ingletonian rocks. At Thornton Force the Carboniferous limestone can be seen resting upon the Ingletonian, a textbook example of geological unconformity. Other sites of great geological interest include Mealbank Quarry near Ingleton, Giggleswick Scar, and Foredale in Lower Ribblesdale. A landscape shaped by ice Ice shaped the valleys into their classic U-shaped form and lined the valley sides and bottoms with boulder clay. Glacial features of special interest include the Norber Erratics, to the north of Austwick, where boulders of Silurian grit were moved by ice from Crummack Dale and deposited on the limestone at a higher elevation. Some boulders retarded the process of erosion of the limestone below and now sit on small limestone plinths. North Ribblesdale, to the south of Gearstones, has a notable drumlin field, with the drumlin alignments showing the direction of the ice flows. Glacial retreat moraines occur, for example within Ribblesdale, where the moraine impounded meltwater to form a temporary lake. This is evidenced by the very flat valley floor within this dale and the shallow but steep banks at what would have been the lake’s margins. 4 A karst landscape Above ground a classic glacio-karst landscape is clearly visible in the limestone scars, benches and pavements. The latter are particularly well developed features within the Ingleborough Dales and surrounding uplands. Examples occur across the project area. Further conspicuous surface features include the funnel-like depressions known as shakeholes, swallowholes or sinks, which are particularly well marked on the Ingleton side of the Ribblehead Viaduct. Below ground is a remarkably extensive landscape of karst cave systems. Water, sinking into the Limestone pavement at Moughton ground within the Great Scar limestone, re-emerges above the impervious slate layer below. Some caves are accessed by large open shafts, such as those at Gaping Gill and Alum Pot. At Gaping Gill, Fell Beck plunges 103m into the shaft, creating one of the highest waterfalls in the UK. The limestone bedrock and shallow porous soils mean that, apart from a few notable rivers, the moorlands are characterised by a general absence of watercourses. The principal river of the Ingleborough Dales is the River Ribble. The river flows southwards from the head of Ribblesdale, where Gayle Beck and Cam Beck join it just above Selside, over Catrigg Force at Stainforth, and out of the National Park at Langcliffe. The River Doe, which rises at the head of the valley of Chapel le Dale, flows in a south-westerly direction. It is met by the River Twiss at Ingleton, close to the National Park boundary, to form the River Greta, a tributary of the River Lune. The Doe and the Twiss are marked by a number of spectacular waterfalls, including Thornton Force, Pecca Falls, Beezley Falls and Snow Falls. A culture of livestock farming The area is still characterised by traditional upland livestock farming, which presents fascinating farm and village landscapes and the extensive ‘barns and walls’ scenery that is so redolent of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. The intricate network of dry stone walls, many pre-dating the Parliamentary Enclosures of the late 18th century and some even of medieval date, create a patchwork of fields across the dales and dale sides, including nationally important hay meadows. Traditional stone-built field barns are scattered across the area, many in an increasingly ruinous condition. The palimpsest of relict settlements and field systems of various dates is particularly well preserved and makes a subtle contribution to the scenery in the limestone grasslands. 5 Pastoral farming of sheep (Swaledale and Dalesbred) and cattle is the dominant activity that shapes the present-day landscape. Milk production is now absent from most of the dale head farms and sucklers (cross-bred beef cattle with calves at foot) are the rule. In the lower dales, Friesians are used for milk production. Livestock farming is still deeply interwoven into the Ingleborough Irregular field patterns at Chapel le Dale Dales’ life and culture, with livestock sales and local agricultural shows still playing an important part in the lives of its people. A rich seam of industry The legacy of former rural industries adds to the character and interest of the landscape. Their influences on the area’s culture and social fabric are still evident today. The Ingleborough Dales are scattered with the remains of former mineral extraction and processing sites. This has resulted in a rich industrial archaeology, superb built heritage, and some outstanding Scheduled Monuments, including two Hoffmann lime kilns (at Langcliffe and Mealbank Quarries) and the Sunnybank Stone Mill. The latter cut the Horton Blue Flags, uniquely quarried in the area and of high value in the local vernacular building style, and widely exported for use in billiard tables, brewery vats and dairies. The large-scale development of quarrying is inextricably linked with the arrival of the SettleCarlisle Railway Line, which opened in 1876 and sweeps and cuts its way across the area. The combination of wild and exposed fell scenery and the engineered structures of the railway line, including the iconic Ribblehead Viaduct, is impressive and emotive. The construction of the line was a major engineering feat and numerous important features remain. These include the stations, railway houses and signal boxes, built in a distinctive Midland Railway architectural style and highly visible in the open uplands. Smaller historical features, such as plate layers huts and the site of the construction camp at Ribblehead, are less visible but contribute to the historical significance of what is the country’s longest Conservation Area. Today, the three active quarries at Horton in Ribblesdale, Arcow and Dry Rigg and their associated industrial features are defining characteristics of Mid-Ribblesdale. The quarries at Horton are extensive and stone is sent throughout the north of England for chemical purposes and road building, creating traffic of heavy lorries passing through settlements and a covering of dust. 6 Buildings and settlements Settlement character is a visible expression of the complex underlying geology and is inextricably linked to the historical use of the land – for farming and industry. Limestone is the dominant building material, generally in roughly coursed rubble walling with other rocks providing distinctive building details. Ingletonian slates have been used for roofing over a large part of the south-west dales and in adjacent parts of Lancashire. Horton flags from Helwith Bridge were widely used in Ribblesdale from the 17th to the 19th centuries. The thicker flags were used for building stone while the thinner flags were used to make shelves, floors etc. Horton flags can also be seen in gateposts and in some of the older clapper bridges. In Ribblesdale, Studfold sandstone has also been widely used, creating houses of contrasting character from those of flaggy sandstone. There is much irregularity in the splitting of the stones and great skill has been exercised in their use. The valley of Chapel le Dale, which takes its name from the small church at the dale head, contains only the small hamlet by the same name and scattered farms of medieval origin. Horton in Ribblesdale straggles along the road within the valley bottom, situated near bridges over the River Ribble and Brants Gill Beck. Horton, with its station situated on the hillside, is strongly influenced by the presence of the Settle-Carlisle railway and the quarries on Moughton to the west. Traditional farmhouses mingle with industrial style Victorian terraces of the railway era and more modern developments built for quarry workers. Other important settlements in Ribblesdale include Langcliffe, Helwith Bridge, Studfold, Stainforth and Selside. A cultural landscape Despite its harsh and often challenging conditions, the area has supported communities and industry over several millennia. The amount and variety of evidence of the generations of occupation and activity that can still be seen today is exceptional. What we see today reflects the impact of many different people and cultures, from Roman roads to the construction camps of the migrant workers who built the Settle-Carlisle Railway Line. It provides an intriguing and highly visible record of the area’s social and economic history, including: evidence of Palaeolithic, Mesolithic and Neolithic human activity found in a number of caves, including Victoria Cave at Langcliffe, Trow Gill above Clapham, and Kinsey Cave near Giggleswick the archaeological remains on the summit of Ingleborough, previously believed to be an Iron Age hill fort but now thought to be a major arena for ceremonial and ritual acts, possibly dating from the 2nd millennia BC or Neolithic the early Iron Age enclosures and numerous huts the road between Bainbridge and Ingleton was the major Roman road in the area and is still possibly recognisable in places by its straight lines. Rising from Bainbridge to Dodd 7 Fell as a green track (known as the Cam High Road), from Sleddale Head it crosses to Cam Houses and Gearstones and to Ingleton, beneath Twisleton Scars physical remains of Anglian and Viking settlements, such as Gauber Farmstead at Ribblehead and a newly discovered building at Selside. However, the Norse legacy is strongest in the topographic names currently used in the dales, including fell, dale, beck, clint, gill, rigg, moss, scar and tarn many of the older farms, such as Colt Park, Nether Lodge, Lodge Hall, Cam Houses and Newby Hall near Clapham, stand on the site of monastic centres packhorse routes, which took bold high lines over the fells. The Craven Way climbs out of Dentdale to a high level route over the bleak northern slopes of Whernside, before linking the line of farms down from Ellerbeck at the head of Chapel le Dale. At Kirkby Gate it traversed the length of Scales Moor and from there to Ingleton. The whole route remains a public right of way. Long Lane is part of a similar route from Clapham to Selside. Gearstones was a major centre on the western drove, by which Scottish cattle were driven south to the industrial centres of the West Riding and Lancashire, with a weekly market until 1870. A wealth of wildlife The area’s limestone country is of international biodiversity importance and includes upland pastures, limestone pavement and limestone woodland and scrub. The high biological value of the area is recognised by numerous designations: it includes SSSIs, National Nature Reserves, and the Special Area of Conservation known as the Ingleborough Complex, which covers 5770ha. The herb-rich limestone pasture, grazed by sheep and, increasingly, traditional hardy cattle, supports a great variety of nationally rare flowering plants. Good examples of this type of grassland can be found at Seato Pastures, near Chapel le Dale, where flushes and seepages support species-rich vegetation, including grass of parnassus, bird’s eye primrose and the scarce yellow saxifrage. Scattered hay meadows on the valley floors, some of national importance, are home to such plants as wood crane’s-bill, melancholy thistle and yellow rattle. Limestone pavement is particularly well represented within the uplands surrounding the Ingleborough Dales, eg on Ingleborough side and on Scales Moor above Chapel le Dale. As such it represents the most Wood crane’s-bill extensive series of limestone pavements in the UK. The limestone pavements are a very special habitat in their own right, with complex conditions and nationally rare species such as holly fern and baneberry. Areas of juniper 8 occur, clinging to limestone cliffs and forming areas of scrub on limestone pavements, eg on Giggleswick Scar and at Moughton, where the juniper population is particularly high. The populations occur here at the highest altitude on limestone in the UK. A number of small areas of ancient woodland survive within the Ingleborough Dales, particularly in association with scars and gorges. The most extensive example is the area of ancient wood pasture in a mosaic with limestone pavement, marsh and grass communities that occurs at Oxenber Wood, south of Crummack Dale. Unusual sub-alpine ash woodland, of a type once common in the Craven area but now confined to a few locations, occurs on the steep sides of Ling Gill in Ribblesdale. Fine examples of ancient gorge woodland occur at Thornton and Twisleton Glens. Many of the historical quarry sites, such as Ribblehead Quarry (part of Ingleborough National Nature Reserve), are becoming home to a wide diversity of habitats and species. Such sites are increasingly important to enable species to move through the wider landscape. There is an isolated but significant remnant of raised peat bog at Swarth Moor and Studfold Moor SSSI which provides a link to Ribblehead Quarry habitats across the area, with populations of the Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary. Swarth Moor is adjacent to the quarries in the area and these areas provide new, disturbed ground for early successional species, as well as new rock faces for species such as the peregrine falcon. In terms of species, there are nationally important populations of breeding waders, black grouse, yellow wagtail and skylark; rare and scarce lime-loving plants such as bird’seye primrose, rigid buckler fern and globeflower; rare and scarce invertebrates such as the northern brown argus butterfly and the white-clawed crayfish; and important mammals, notably the red squirrel. Red squirrrel An industrial playground The area is important for the range and quality of natural and cultural resources it offers for outdoor recreation and its opportunities for accessing them. Mass tourism, which began in Victorian times with the coming of the railways, still forms a key part of the present-day economy. 9 The Settle-Carlisle Railway still offers a very special way of enjoying the dramatic landscape along its route, but today the Ingleborough Dales are easily accessible from the A65 trunk road. This runs along the southern and south-western fringes of the National Park and links the towns and cities of West Yorkshire with the Lake District. The area’s historical and extensive network of footpaths, bridleways and tracks, together with extensive areas of open access land, rivers, crags and caves, enables it to provide some of the best walking, caving, climbing, paragliding and cross-country mountain biking opportunities to be found anywhere in the country. The Three Peaks are an immensely popular area for recreation and a centre for a number of long-distance routes (including the Pennine Way and Pennine Bridleway), as well as having renown for the circuit of the fells undertaken as a challenge event. Horton in Ribblesdale is the starting point for the ‘official’ Three Peaks Walk. Caves have been exploited for tourism since the 18th century, and there are still show caves open to the public at White Scar, near Ingleton, and Ingleborough Show Cave, near Clapham. An inspiration Most of the people who come to the Ingleborough Dales will experience a range of emotions, triggered by its beauty, grandeur and other, less tangible qualities. These all help create the ‘spirit of place’ that is unique to the Ingleborough Dales. This impacts differently on different people, as the experience is personal to the individual. High on the list of elements that inspire are those that touch and excite the senses: the sounds, sights and qualities that stir the emotions, that allow people to relate to nature, and that enhance true enjoyment. They include: a true sense of tranquillity, remoteness and solitude that can still be found in the quieter dales like Clapdale and Crummack Dale, which is rare in England today the sense of personal achievement associated with scaling Ingleborough, one of the Yorkshire Three Peaks the expansive views that show to advantage the area’s beauty and variety ever-changing light, seasonal change and severe winter weather create visual drama and contrast the darkness of night across much of its area. The Ingleborough Dales have also been the source of inspiration for artists. The dramatic scenery and extensive cave systems of Chapel le Dale were important on the itineraries of writers, poets and artists of the Romantic Movement in the 18th and 19th centuries. In particular, Weathercote Cave and its waterfall inspired the artist J M W Turner’s painting of 1808. 10 Scheme proposals Stories in Stone will deliver an integrated suite of projects to achieve our vision for the Ingleborough Dales landscape. The projects have been arranged into four programmes that will each contribute to the realisation of the vision and achieve the priorities for Landscape Partnerships. Programme 1: Historical Ingleborough The built and cultural heritage of the Ingleborough Dales is conserved, restored and celebrated A prioritised series of heritage features that create the historical landscape character of the Ingleborough Dales area and give it its unique sense of place will be recorded, conserved and restored for current and future generations. Local people will be involved in community archaeology projects. The memories and thoughts of communities associated with quarrying will be captured. Community-led projects will restore and celebrate valued built and cultural features. H1: Traditional Farm Buildings Restoration of ten vernacular farm buildings. H2: Dry Stone Walls 3000m of prioritised dry stone wall will be rebuilt. H3: Thorns Through Time A comprehensive archaeological survey and targeted excavation of the uninhabited hamlet will be carried out, a key historical structure will be consolidated and interpretive and educational resources will be produced. H4: Southerscales: a deserted settlement Trained volunteers, working alongside professionals, will produce detailed archaeological and botanical surveys and geophysical plans. H5: Ribblehead Landscape Enhancements Works to protect the Scheduled Ancient Monument and improve the experience of visitors to the iconic Ribblehead Viaduct. H6: Ribblehead Station Internal decoration and repairs, enhanced interpretation, better visitor signage, and a community archaeology project. H7: Quarry Tales Exploring and recording the memories and language associated with quarrying in the Ingleborough Dales, using oral history methods and research carried out by trained volunteers. 11 Programme 2: Natural Ingleborough The natural heritage of the Ingleborough Dales is conserved, restored and celebrated Important habitats – woodlands, raised bogs, limestone pavements, and nature reserves – will be restored and favourably managed by the area’s private and public landowners/managers to support a diverse, resilient and sustainable network of wildlife habitats. The cave environment and its features and archaeology will be better recorded and protected and will be more accessible. Volunteers will be trained in ecological and cave surveying techniques and their work will inform management plans. Community-led projects will restore and celebrate valued natural features. N1: Woodland Restoration 15ha of native woodland will be restored and created. N2: Swarth Moor Restoration and Interpretation This nationally important 25ha lowland raised mire will be enhanced and made more accessible. N3: Limestone Pavement Restoration The botanical diversity of 4ha of limestone pavement will be restored. N4: Safeguarding Ingleborough’s Wildlife Sites Conservation works, training local volunteers, and improving access and interpretation to safeguard Yorkshire Wildlife Trust’s 55ha of nature reserve. N5: Cave Conservation Clearing surface shakeholes of historical farm waste, fencing open shafts to prevent livestock from falling in, and cleaning and protecting underground speleothems. N6: Mealbank Quarry Establishment of a 4ha nature reserve to safeguard a threatened population of the Northern Brown Argus butterfly, a UK BAP priority species. Programme 3: Discover Ingleborough People can access, understand and participate in the heritage of the Ingleborough Dales more easily A network of enhanced physical and intellectual access and interpretation across the Ingleborough Dales that will convey how, over time, a unique combination of natural and cultural heritage has shaped the Ingleborough Dales landscape. It will link together existing and new attractions to help conserve the heritage and traditions of the area. The network will enable a wider range of local people and visitors of all ages to discover, appreciate, enjoy and actively care for the special qualities of the area. This will include developing new audiences and involving hard-to-reach groups. People will benefit from improved physical and intellectual access to the Ingleborough Dales’ special heritage landscape qualities. Volunteers will be trained to digitise important local archives to make them publicly accessible. Opportunities to access the area’s heritage using public transport will be promoted. 12 D1: Stories in Stone website, brand and interpretation An appealing website, a memorable brand, a smartphone app and innovative interpretation will be developed to establish the identity of and promote the scheme, its projects and the Ingleborough Dales. D2: Ingleborough Dales Rocks The development of newly researched, written and designed webpages about the geology of the area. D3: Schools Out A range of outdoor-based activity and engagement days for 4000 pupils at primary schools. D4: Ingleborough for All Providing active and thought-provoking activities for 780 people from groups currently under-represented in the countryside. D5: Overground Underground Festival Annual programmes of events and activities to enable at least 1000 people every year to discover the natural and cultural heritage of the Ingleborough Dales area. D6: Capturing the Past Training volunteers to catalogue and digitise at least six local archives, and make the material publicly available. D7: Access and Interpretation improvements A wide range of projects that will deliver a landscape-wide strategy to interpret the scheme area, including physical and intellectual interpretation, technology, social media, storytelling, art, music, arts and crafts, and leaflets. D8: Musical Rocks The creation of ringing rock installations using locally sourced stone. D9: Community Heritage Grants At least 20 grants distributed to support community-led projects or activities. Programme 4: Skills for Ingleborough People have the knowledge and training to maintain, restore, manage and celebrate the heritage of the Ingleborough Dales Training opportunities will be provided to increase the heritage skills and knowledge of local communities and partners, and to increase the resource available for heritage conservation work in the Ingleborough Dales. Local young people will gain land management and conservation qualifications and go on training placements with local contractors and organisations. Dry stone wallers will be able to recognise and rebuild local and historical wall styles and features. Cave guides and leaders will be better able to raise the public’s 13 awareness of cave geology, geomorphology, hydrology, ecology, cave archaeology, and conservation issues, and provide a better experience for their customers. S1: Rural Trainees Countryside management and heritage skills training for six young people. S2: Heritage Skills Training A range of skills training events focussed on natural and built heritage, with 920 people learning new skills. S3: Young Rangers A group for 20 young people aged 12 to 16 who want to put something back into the landscape they love. S4: Ingleborough Dales Cave Environment Training workshops to raise awareness of cave geology, geomorphology, hydrology, ecology, archaeology, and conservation issues, with 148 people being trained. S5: Walk Leader Training Training and advice for 192 volunteer guided walk leaders to enable them to lead guided and/or interpretive walks effectively and safely and pass on knowledge about the ecology, archaeology, history and geology of the area. For further information please contact: Don Gamble Scheme Manager [email protected] / 015242 51002 View towards Wharfe and Ingleborough 14
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