: Rome the city of seven hills 26 | Signs of the Times Harold Harker invites you to visit one of the most notable places in Christian history. Constantine’s Arch commemorates his victory over Maxentius at Milvian Bridge, which gave him the sole rulership of Rome. Signs of the Times | 27 Harold Harker I n the Holy Scriptures, the Book of Revelation— sometimes called the “Apocalypse”—has an intriguing reference to “Seven Hills” (see Revelation 17:9). Rome, the city on the Tiber River in Italy, is known as “The City of Seven Hills” and has often been linked by many commentators as fulfilling this reference from Scripture. However, there are more titles given to this famous city. It has been called “Limen Apostolorem” or “The Threshold of the Apostles”—no doubt with reference to the martyrdom of St Paul and St Peter. Another title is “La Citta Eterna” or “The Eternal City.” However, the extravagant claim in the title “Caput Mundi” or “Capital of the World” takes the cake for titles. The city of Rome is indeed a mecca for tourists from around the world. Legend has it that the twins, Romulus and Remus, founded the city around 753 BC. The legend also has the far-fetched story of how these abandoned twins were suckled as infants and nourished by a she-wolf, somewhere on the Palatino Hill. When Constantine moved the seat of his government to Constantinople—now called Istanbul—the power vacuum in Rome was filled by the Bishop of Rome. With the demise of the Heruli and Vandals in 538 AD, the Bishop of Rome could rule in his own right. Several hundred years later, in 756 AD, Pepin the Short gave the Bishop of Rome the territory known as the Papal States. This confirmed the Pontiff the title ruler of a kingdom—as well as being the supreme spiritual leader. These Papal States finally became part of the Republic of Italy in 1870, in the time of Garabaldi, when modern Italy was born. But in more modern times, in the year 1929, Mussolini signed a Concordat with the Vatican, acknowledging the independence of Vatican City and creating the world’s smallest country. Today, the street running from St Peter’s Square to the Tiber River, near the Castle of St Angelo, is called the Via Della Conciliazione, commemorating the Concordat of 1929. The street signs note the date of this historic agreement. n Rome has so many places of interest it would take many days to see them all. Let me introduce a couple of the well-known places tourists—and pilgrims—would not want to miss. There are perhaps a number of places that vie as the signature of Rome. One of the places surviving through the millennia is the Colosseum. The remains of this famous building adorn many posters inviting tourists to Rome. It is the The Colosseum, where some Christians were martyred, is now a symbol of Rome. 28 | Signs of the Times greatest monument to ancient Rome. Nero had built his palace on this site but it was demolished by his successor, Vespasian, to make way for the great project he had in mind. It was not completed until the year after Pompeii had been destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius, in 79 AD. The Colosseum lies between three of the famous hills of Rome—the Palatino, the Celio and the Esquilino. It was a colossus in size, seating up to 50,000 people with another 5000 standing. Noted for chariot races, and even naval battles when it was flooded, it is remembered as the site where some Christians were martyred, although most Christians were put to death in the Circus Maximus. In his book Living on the Ragged Edge, Charles Swindoll tells of a monk, Telemachus, who came to see a gladiator contest. The contestants had commenced by bowing to the emperor and saying, “We who are about to die salute you.” Telemachus, who could not stand more senseless killing, shouted out, “In the name of Christ, stop!” When nothing stopped, he dropped into the arena and shouted the same to the contestants. The crowd impatiently called out, “Run him through!” As he was struck and sank to the ground, he made his final plea again. The now-silent crowd began to leave, and thus ended gladiatorial contests in the Colosseum. n A little to the east of the Colosseum is the great Basilica of St John Lateran. This was the mother church in Rome and the main church when Martin Luther visited in 1509. An interesting inscription on the front of the church states that it claims to be the “Mother Church of the World.” In this cathedral, Pope Martin V lies before the altar. He was elected in 1415 to end the catastrophic time when three popes ruled at the same time, each claiming to be pope. In the piazza or square behind this great cathedral is an Egyptian obelisk and, below that, St John’s octagonal Baptistery, whose shape was copied throughout Christendom. This type of baptism, by full immersion, was the norm until around 1000 AD. n Across the road from St John’s Basilica is the Scala Santa—the holy stairs reported to be transported by angels from Jerusalem. A more likely explanation was that Helena, the mother of Constantine, travelled to the east and brought back many objects. These stairs are still used by crowds of pilgrims, eager to obtain a blessing for climbing the centre flight on their knees. Tradition says that Martin Luther thought of the great Scriptural truth—“The righteous will live by faith” (see Romans 1:17)—while on these stairs. Certainly, the sincerity of the pilgrims cannot be questioned, even if the validity of any spiritual gain may not be supported by Holy Scripture. After seeing the statues of Jesus and Pilate in the foyer, many tourists walk up the outside flights of stairs. n The ancient Roman walls surround the inner city and are just across the open, grassy section in front of St John Lateran Basilica. There is a small entry point called the Porta Asinaria—or Gate of Donkeys. In 546 AD, the Barbarian soldiers of Rome opened the gate to the Goths, who looted the city. This gate was also the entry point used by the Holy Roman Emperor Henry IV, whose headquarters were in Speyer, Germany. Henry IV had a colossal confrontation with Pope Gregory VII at Canossa. This resulted in Henry waiting in the snow for three days and bowing in humble submission to the Roman Pontiff. Henry returned to his throne and bided his time and, just a few years later, brought his whole army south and entered through this gate in 1084 AD, sacking the city. Pope Gregory fled for his life southward from Rome and died in the hills behind Naples. He is buried in the Cathedral of Salerno. For Christians, one of the most memorable places to visit is the Mammertine Prison (Carcere Mamertino— or S Pietro in Carcere). This is the traditional place of incarceration of both Peter and Paul in the first century AD. It had been used as a prison for many of the enemies of the Roman state through the years. It is sobering to descend into the prison and contemplate the apostles here. The Church of St Joseph of the Carpenters was built over the Mammertine Prison in 1540. Signs of the Times | 29 Just over the Palatine Hill and south of the Colosseum is the location of Nero’s Circus—or, as it is usually known, the Circus Maximus. It was once the largest stadium of Rome, seating up to 250,000 spectators. Picture Ben Hur and the chariot races that excited the populace of Rome. However, many Christians were martyred here. Today, this grassy area, often used by joggers and for other activities, does not reveal that many Christians died here, either as torches to light the arena, or by other means. On the hill above the Colosseum to the north is the Church of St Peter in Chains (S Pietro in Vincoli). Displayed here are the chains that are said to have bound Peter during his imprisonment in Rome. They were taken to Constantinople in the fifth century AD. The Empress Eudoxia sent one of the chains back to Rome to her daughter and it was given to Pope Leo I, who had the church built to store the relic. Then when the remaining chain was brought back from Constantinople some years 30 | Signs of the Times later, it is said the chains “linked together” like magnets! More factual is the statue of Moses by Michelangelo. Many visitors ask why Moses is depicted with two horns like a Viking helmet. The statue is based on the description of Moses as he came down from Mt Sinai and beams of light shone forth (see Exodus 34:29). The Hebrew word for “beam of light” can also be translated as “horns.” n The greatest cathedral, and one visited by almost every visitor to Rome, is St Peters Cathedral on the west bank of the Tiber. This cathedral and museum is part of the smallest country in the world—the Vatican. But first, the Vatican Museum. Here every visitor will be overawed and suffer from total visual overload. There is only so much a person can remember! The many statues, paintings, tapestries and more overwhelm any visitor. Perhaps the most important areas to visit are the Raphael Rooms and, in particular, the great paintings Mammertine Prison is located under this church built to commemorate the prison where it is believed Paul and Peter were imprisoned in the first century. St Peters Cathedral. highlighting Constantine. The first shows him defeating Maxentius at Milvian Bridge. The next shows him seeing the cross in the sky, giving him victory. The baptism of Constantine by Pope Sylvester is the next large painting—but history tells us Constantine waited until just before his death for baptism and it took place in Constantinople. The fourth great painting shows Constantine giving Pope Sylvester the “Donation of Constantine,” which history has shown to be a fraudulent story invented in the Middle Ages. The route through the Vatican Museum finally comes to the Sistine Chapel. This surprisingly small room—given the size of the complex—is always filled with throngs of people, gazing up at Michelangelo’s masterpieces of “Creation” and also the “Last Judgment.” The ones to care for this place need to repeatedly call for silence, as the whispers and words of the crowds swells to uncomfortable levels. When viewing photos of this room, most fail to notice where the ceiling meets the walls. Here, Michelangelo shows seven biblical prophets interspersed with six Sibyls, or heathen priestesses, from Delphi, Cuma and other ancient places. A meeting of the sacred and the profane, or pagan, may indeed show the eclectic nature of the church here. n The cathedral itself has many great things to see—from the famous “Pieta” by Michelangelo to the black Peter with a renewed foot, because of the adoration of so many pilgrims. The size of the cathedral, its grandeur and lavish decorations impress anyone who visits. If you ever get the opportunity, visit St Peters. Climb the steps to the top of the dome and view Rome sprawling before you. Note the escape walkway from the Vatican to the Castle of St Angelo, used by several popes in times of siege by enemy forces. It is called “The Passeto” or Vatican Corridor. The great St Peters Cathedral was built with funds raised by the sale of indulgences in the time of Martin Luther. This was the trigger, along with Luther’s understanding of the truth “the just live by faith” that caused the great Reformation and, with it, a return to biblical truth. When you visit Rome, remember its history is deeply intertwined with the thousands of years of controversy between biblical truth and human tra§ dition. Signs of the Times | 31
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