8/26/14
Shelf Supports |Brackets for Closet Rods
Every shelf longer than 48” should be supported by a bracket.
Brackets should be centered left-to-right on the
MDF cleat mounted to wall.
• Push bracket as tight as possible up to the shelf.
Each bracket comes with appropriate screws.
Don’t lose them while unpackaging!
Install short screws into shelving first to help pull the
bracket tight to underside of shelf.
• Ensure short screws are long enough to grip the shelf
without popping through the top.
• Screws may need to be angled slightly to allow drill room
to fit between bracket and shelf. Don’t angle too sharply!
Install longer screws into cleat next, making sure
that bracket is pushed tight to cleat with no gaps.
Shelf Supports |Closet Rods
Set rod in place, resting end caps on the
ledgers on each side.
• Closet rod rests over hook in bracket.
• There will likely be a small gap; rod doesn’t
rest on hook until loaded with clothes.
Closet rod comes with appropriate screws.
Don’t lose them while unpackaging!
Make sure cap is pushed tightly against ledger
before installing screws to avoid gaps.
• Two long screws attach each end cap to the ledger.
• Be careful not to angle screws too sharply.
These cute little hooks come
with closet rod packaging.
Do not use them.
Shelf Supports | Laundry / Pantry
For shelves without closet rods, use standard “L” shelf brackets.
Where to Install:
• Every shelf longer than 48” should be
supported by a bracket every 2’.
• Any open-ended shelf (one which has no
side ledger, but is open to the room) should
have a bracket at its end.
Note: The longer end of the
“L” points vertically down;
the shorter end supports
the shelf.
Top shelf (11” wide):
Use 8” long brackets
Bottom shelf (15” wide):
Use 11” long brackets
Shelf Supports | Laundry / Pantry
To Install:
• Center brackets left-to-right on the MDF cleat on the wall.
• Push brackets as tight as possible up to the bottom of the shelf.
Install short screws into shelving first to help
pull the bracket tight to underside of shelf.
• Ensure short screws are long enough to grip
the shelf without popping through the top.
• Screws may need to be angled slightly to allow
drill room to fit between bracket and shelf.
Don’t angle too sharply!
Install longer screws into cleat next, making
sure that bracket is pushed tight to cleat with
no gaps.
Each bracket comes with appropriate screws.
Don’t lose them while unpackaging!
Door Knobs
Correct
Upside-down
Follow all manufacturer instructions
included with each knob.
Pay attention to Up/Down orientation
Turn all machine screws by hand.
• Do not risk over-tightening or stripping
the head of the screw using a drill.
• Drills may be used on wood screws.
• But still be careful not to over-tighten
or strip the head of the screw!
Install privacy knobs on all bathroom
doors and the master bedroom door.
Pre-drill holes for all wood screws to
avoid splitting the door or door jamb.
Install passage knobs on
all other interior doors.
Test every door handle before walking away. (From outside, with tools handy, in case it sticks shut.)
Door Knobs | Installing Strike Plates
Always replace one screw in the top and bottom hinges
with a 3-inch finish screw before installing strike plates.
•
•
Otherwise, the door will sag in its opening over time.
Do not over-tighten screws; this will pull the door jamb in
too tight and bind the door.
Always install door knob before strike plate.
• Ensure striker is oriented correctly and door
knob functions correctly before closing door.
Close door and sight through gap at striker to see where in the
jamb’s bore hole the striker sits (high, in the middle, or low).
• Set strike plate to match this height.
You may need to trim excess paint from
mortise in order for strike plate to fit tightly.
• You may also need to trim a tiny amount of
wood from around the mortise in order to
match an unusually high or low striker.
Doorstops
Hingepin Doorstops
Baseboard Doorstops
Use wherever possible and practical.
• Mount flush to bottom edge of
baseboard curve.
• Do not oversink screw or the
doorstop spring will not fit.
Use where baseboard doorstops are
not possible or practical.
• Always use in pairs; one each at top
and bottom hinges.
• Always adjust each to be in sync and
to stop door two inches from
touching closest surface.
Always test doorstops before you walk away!
Medicine Cabinets
Center cabinet over vanity top and under light bar.
Where vanity top is tight to wall on either
side, ensure that medicine cabinet door
edge is at least an inch away from the wall
so it can be opened.
Install:
24” cabinet:
30” cabinet:
36” cabinet:
20” from vanity top
16” from vanity top
12” from vanity top
Unpack and install all shelves.
Space shelves equidistant. Make sure not to
lose any shelf supports while unpackaging!
Medicine Cabinets | Fastening
Use at least four screws per cabinet.
• Ensure all screws hit framing. Check for blocking – if not there, fasten to studs.
• Sink all screws into the reinforced backing at the top and bottom of cabinet.
Use 3” Phillips pan or truss head screws.
(Commonly sold as white “cabinet screws”)
Flat and Oval Head screws will easily
oversink into the soft cabinet backing,
and over time can pull through.
Pan and Truss head screws lay flat against
cabinet backing, and the wider surface of
the head prevents it from pulling through.
Bathroom Hardware | Toilet Paper Holder
Install: 24” from floor.
Follow all manufacturer’s specifications included.
If mounting on drywall:
• Ensure both brackets are attached to studs or blocking.
If necessary, use metal
toggle bolt attachments.
Where possible, mount
to side of vanity base.
Do not use plastic screw
pieces included with kits.
Note: Spring-loaded bar should not be compressed when installed.
• It should fit snugly into both brackets while under no tension.
Bathroom Hardware | Towel Bars
Install: 50” from floor.
Ensure both brackets are attached to studs or blocking.
If necessary, use metal toggle
bolt attachments on one side.
Do not use plastic screw
pieces included with kits.
If bathroom layout prevents mounting either bracket
in framing, cut and rout a mounting bar from MDF.
Attach towel bar to MDF and attach MDF to framing.
For two bars, stacked:
Install directly above each
other with brackets centered
on 42” and 72” from floor.
Bathroom Hardware | Towel Rings
Install: 24” from vanity top
Ensure bracket is attached to framing.
• Check for studs or blocking.
Center over vanity top as best as possible.
• Do not mount so close to medicine cabinet
that it interferes with opening doors.
Paint Prep
Use silicone:
Use caulk (+ silicone)
To fill gaps between:
• Painted trim to painted trim.
• Painted trim to wall/ceiling.
• Window flanges to window well
drywall and sills.
• Be careful not to smear it onto
the flange!
To fill gaps between:
• Painted trim to tile
• Counters/vanity tops to wall
• Cabinet/vanity bases to tile
Use spackle:
To fill all holes in trim.
• Do not use spackle in
cracks; do not use
caulk in holes!