Travel report FUNDAÇÃO GETULIO VARGAS (EAESP-FGV) São Paulo Spring 2015 K90634 K88237 1. Preparing for exchange Visa and registration for classes Once you have applied to study at FGV-EAESP (FGV) and received your acceptance from Aalto, you will have to wait for the official acceptance from FGV for a while. It will take its time but don’t worry, it will come eventually and as it was in my case, it came along with a map of São Paulo and a nice brochure of urban arts in the city— which the city is full of! After receiving the confirmation letter from the host university you will need to apply for a visa. With a Finnish passport you are allowed to stay in Brazil for 90 days without a visa, but you need one in order to study there. There is no way around this. The visa process is quite simple and fast. They say that it usually takes around 2 weeks, but I got mine in less than one as the embassy hurried their processes before Christmas holidays. For the visa you need: · Passport, valid for at least 6 months. · One recent passport-sized photograph, front view, white background. · Extract from the Criminal Records. · Original letter from the Brazilian educational institution confirming acceptance or a place and duration of course. · Letter from the Finnish educational institution stating that the applicant is registered there as a student and that the exchange will be part of the applicants degree in Finland. · Proof of financial means of support during the stay in Brazil. · Round trip air ticket reservation with passenger’s name. Itinerary must show dates and cities of entry and departure in Brazil. All of the information concerning the visa can be found from the website of the Brazilian embassy at http://helsinque.itamaraty.gov.br/en-us/_r_student_visa.xml and you can visit the embassy that is located in Kaivopuisto (Itäinen Puistotie 4 B 1). When receiving the visa, you will also get a form that you will need to register at a Federal Police Office after arriving to Brazil. Remember to check all the information in this form carefully to avoid any problems when arriving to Brazil. The International Relations Office at FGV will help you with the registration at the Federal Police. The International Relations Office at FGV will start sending you information via email after you have been officially accepted. Their emails will cover topics such as acceptance letter and student visa, application procedures, registration for courses, courses information, Portuguese proficiency test, Portuguese language course, health insurance, internships, and the welcoming week. You will need to send the university a copy of your visa and your health insurance, but no further documents are needed until you arrive the country. Registration for courses at FGV happens during a two-day period on a first come first serve basis so it is good to go through the available courses well ahead to know which courses to register for. If in doubt, it is ok to register to a few courses too many as the first week of each module is the add and drop week. Generally exchange students will choose courses from the MPGI Program, which is a Master’s in Managements and is taught in English. You can also apply separately for courses in the MPGPP Program, which is a professional master’s program focused on public affairs. Registration to the MPGI courses happens through a website and to the MPGPP courses through an application. The application for MPGPP courses consists of a motivation letter, CV and your transcript of records. The MPGPP courses are mainly in Portuguese, but they offer a few interesting choices in English as well. To register to courses in Portuguese, you must do a Portuguese proficiency test in the beginning of the semester at FGV. Practicing your Portuguese In order to practice and learn more Portuguese before your exchange, I strongly recommend taking Portuguese lessons. I myself knew Spanish beforehand but as the languages and especially the pronunciation is so different, Portuguese classes in Finland helped me a great deal. The Brazilian embassy in Kaivopuisto is offering classes in Brazilian Portuguese with cheap prices. The teachers are Brazilians themselves and it is a great opportunity to get to know a little bit about the country and the culture as well. To know more about the courses and their schedules visit http://helsinque.itamaraty.gov.br/en-us/portuguese_language_courses.xml and https://www.facebook.com/ccbfhelsinki. FGV also offers a Portuguese language class that is twice a week and lasts half a semester. The course costs R$425 (around 130€). Personally I didn’t take the course, but I heard that the education was quite good at least in the advanced groups and it is a good way to get to know the other exchange students better. If you wish to take private Portuguese lessons, you can find teachers from for example craigslist. Arriving to Brazil After arriving to Brazil you will have 30 days to legalize your student visa. If you fail to do so in time, you will be charged a penalty. To legalize your visa, you must register at the Federal Police of São Paulo within 30 days from the day of your arrival. Some exchange students were able to register their visas in another state and some tried but couldn’t. According to the general policies it should be done in São Paulo, but in Brazil there is something called “jeitinho Brasileiro,” meaning letting a small things pass and with good Portuguese and a nice police officer you might just be able to do this, but I wouldn’t count on it. The easiest way to deal with the registration is to contact the international relations office of FGV and let them help you. They will do this with everyone during the welcome week, but if you arrive to São Paulo prior to that, I recommend you go visit them beforehand to sort everything out before the rush of all other exchange students. You can also do the registration totally by yourself and the international office will send you information on how to do this via email. After you have registered your visa at the Federal Police you will get a slip of paper with an official ID number called RNE. You need to take a copy of this slip back to the international relations office. With the RNE slip, you can also go and register yourself and get a national ID number called CPF, which will become very useful during your stay and will be required in many occasions, such as getting a Brazilian SIM card, a bank account, booking bus rides and flights, and basically everything that is official. With the CPF you can also get discounts at stores and gain tax reductions based on your purchases. Another useful thing to get is the student travel card. With the travel card you can get discount on public transportation inside the city. The only problem is that it requires yet a bit more paperwork to get the card and it takes few months to arrive. The international relations office will help you with this as well, but due to the long process and the size of the discount, only a few exchange students ended up getting the card. You can also buy a regular travel card from any metro station, which will give you discounted fees if combining different transports and/or using busses and it will release you from the need of carrying cash with you. The spring semester at FGV starts in the beginning of February. There is a mandatory welcoming week during the first week (only a few days, not the whole week) and the courses begin in the second week. During the welcoming week you will be assisted with your visa registration if you have not done it yet, given information about the school, school clubs, sports teams, courses, the city, etc. On top of the formal stuff they organize a party and a city tour. Each exchange student at FGV receives an “exchange buddy.” This person is there to help you with any problems that you may encounter, to hang out, or whatever else. Your exchange buddy might be of good help when you first arrive to the city and are looking for apartments etc. with your rusty Portuguese, but because the buddies are usually 1st/2nd year students, you rarely end up hanging out with them that much if you’re in master’s exchange. My buddy was cool though and we ended up having a beer every now and then. Accommodation Getting accommodation isn’t too big of a problem in São Paulo if you speak Portuguese, but with poor language skills it can be a bit more demanding to find a place. As it’s a big city, the rents are higher than what you might be used to and usually students rent rooms rather than apartments. The rents for a room go from R$1000 to R$2000 and over (330€ - 700€). The rents are usually on a month-tomonth basis. The host university doesn’t help you too much with finding a place to live. They provide you a few links and some announcements directed especially to exchange students at FGV, but I found the living arrangements in their announcements either poor or expensive. Some students get their places well in advance, but personally I wanted to see where I am moving to, so I went to a hostel first and then started to look for a place when in the city. When you go apartment hunting, you will most likely be offered a lot of downright terrible and dirty places. You should not settle for these but keep on searching, as there are good apartments available as well. The city of São Paulo is enormous and it makes a great difference where you live. Different areas have different amount of services available and even though you would find a place from a great area, it might be that it will take ages for you to get to the university from there. I suggest living somewhere near a metro station so that you get fast and easy access to wherever you want to go, because otherwise you will spend all of your time on transport. My recommendations are neighbourhoods of Bela Vista and Jardims (near FGV) and Vila Madalena and Pinheiros. To find accommodation look through the following sites: www.airbnb.com www.easyquarto.com.br sampaflatshare.blogspot.com Facebook groups: https://www.facebook.com/groups/sosrepublica/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/dividirAPsp/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/400311046770107/ and https://www.facebook.com/groups/aluguelapartamentosp/ There are also announcements on bulletin boards in the university. 2. Exchange studies The spring 2015 semester was divided on two academic modules. For the both modules the planned amount of studies were 24 ETCS (four courses) which means that the student would take two courses for each module. Other arrangements are also acceptable; for instance some students took all of the 4 courses for the first module and travelled the rest of the spring. The registration for the courses is made online in advance for the both modules. The courses are chosen online couple of weeks before the first module, about in the midJanuary. The students will have an opportunity to change the course during the first week of lectures, so the school is rather flexible about the changes in the courses if wanted. In general, FGV is an urban city business school well located in Sao Paulo. The neighbourhood where the school is located is rather safe, close to Avenida de Paulista what is the main business street of the city. The facilities in the school are relatively new but the school is rather small; the classrooms are divided to various floors and there is no accommodation for the students, nor other facilities for example for sports. Still, FGV has a library and good group working areas where it is possible to concentrate on the studies, as well as some cafeterias and lounges to have coffee and lunch. The quality of the teaching and the courses varied during the modules. Some courses were very well structured and interesting, while in others you understood after the course that you did not have much in your hand, i.e. you did not learn much. Most of the courses are taught in Portuguese but there are plenty of courses also in English, which are full of exchange students. I would recommend taking courses in Portuguese if possible, and entering to the world where the Brazilian business students actually are. MPGPP-13594 Infrastructure Challenges in Brazil, Graduate level, 6 ETCS Professor: Gesner Oliveira Grading: Class participation 30%, Course paper 30%, Exam 40% Language: English/Portuguese The course is part of the master’s program in public management and exchange students need to send a separate application to be accepted to the course. I was interested in the course because I wanted to know more about doing business in Brazil and infrastructure challenges being the biggest issue detaining further foreign direct investments to the country, this course hits the spot. This is also what I wrote to my motivation letter, in case you wonder what you should write in order to get into this course. The course goes through the history, current state, the future, and the challenges of infrastructure in Brazil, and how it affects the country’s economics as a whole. The lectures are divided by different areas of infrastructure i.e. airports, ports, railways, telecommunication, etc. The professor invites guest speakers to almost every single lecture, which is good, as you’ll learn from the local professionals. The course is supposed to be in English, but as most of the students in the class were locals the professor decided to switch the language to Portuguese. I had a hunch that this was his original plan because all of his and the guest speakers material were in Portuguese. I was able to do my course work and exam in English. 11963-30 Corporate Social Responsibility, Graduate level, 6 ETCS Professor: Mário Aquino Alves Grading: Class participation 20%, Presentation and report 30%, Final essay 50% Language: English The course goes through the development on corporate social responsibility, the different forms of it and where it is heading. As CSR is a lot about moral and ethics, the course is very conversational and different issues and problems are discussed together during the lectures. Before each lecture there are a few mandatory readings about the lecture topic, one presentation to the class, and a final paper. The course doesn’t require much work and due to the conversational method of teaching together with the multicultural environment, I found the course fun and interesting. 11956-30 Bric and the international economy, Graduate level , 6ETCS Professor: Antonio Carlos Manfredini da C. Oliveira Grading: 25% Group presentation, 35% Term essay , 40% Final exam Language: English The point of this course was to dig deeper into the economic dynamics in emerging BRIC countries. This course was full of exchange students and taught fully in English. The classes were not obligatory to attend, although they were interesting. Each BRIC country was analysed individually and went through in separate classes, and these classes gave a lot of general knowledge about their history and the current situation. In general, the course taught pretty much but also was slightly more demanding than the other courses. The professor was serious about the subjects of the course but was also very professional and knew what he was doing. Especially the grading of the final exam was relatively rough and the grades created some complaining from the students. Thus be careful if the good grades are important. On the other hand the course taught plenty of things especially about Brazil, and fills a hole in general knowledge about the BRICS. 11956-30 O desafio de empreender , Graduate level , 6ETCS Professor: Marcio Sanches Grading: 40% Creating a business plan and presentations, 20% Exercices, 40% Final exam Language: Portuguese This was one of the two courses, which were offered in Portuguese for the MPGI program during the spring semester. The class attendance was fully participative; no points were given about attendance or activity during the classes. The course was based around the entrepreneurship and what should be kept in mind when starting new businesses. While the lectures were kept in Portuguese (as well as the slides of the lectures) the reading material for the lectures were in English. In addition, the two presentations about the business plan were held in Portuguese but the exam and the exercises could be answered either in English or in Portuguese. The business plan could be written in Portuguese or in English as well. The professor was very kind and relaxed person. He knew that plenty of the people in the class were not perfect in Portuguese, so he gave all his effort to articulate as clear as possible during the lectures that everybody can understand what he says. And he definitely succeeded. If all the Brazilian people would talk Portuguese like he talked, everything would be so much clearer and easier. At the core of this course was the idea to create a business plan in Brazil in groups and present it as a final presentation at the end of the course. The company and the idea were also briefly presented at the middle of the course. One rather simple exam and written reviews were not demanding, and this course was very friendly to these people who have the somehow strong basis of Portuguese but still are not yet fluent and want to practice it more. I personally recommend taking this course for the people who want to study in Portuguese and are interested about entrepreneurship; the course was interesting, practical and clear. 3. Living and traveling in Brazil Brazil is very a large and diverse country. For the people who wants to travel a lot and see what a multiculturalism is, Brazil is perfect place to do that; the vast amount of options forces to choose from the cities and places which are very beautiful. On the other hand, the distances between the places are long and thus some time and money for the traveling is needed. The smartest ways to travel inside the country are with a bus or by a plane. In addition, renting a car is not a bad idea, however for the longer distances the plane is the easiest and most comfortable way to go but on the other hand, it is also the most expensive one. Your traveling budget pretty much defines how many places you can see. The time is not the problem, there is plenty of time to do this; there is couple of breaks from the school during the spring semester and in addition there is a lot of opportunities to travel during the courses. Thus there are chances to travel that the exchange studies do not suffer. Of course the timetables of the courses and your own scheduling define how much you can spend time on traveling. In the next paragraphs some of the places seen are briefly introduced. Rio de Janeiro Perhaps the most beautiful large city in Brazil. Some people even think that the most beautiful city in the world. This place is well known about the open people, overwhelming infrastructure, nice beaches, food and of course, from the carnival. The various tourist attractions make Rio the most travelled place in Brazil. Just to see these attractions the time goes fast. For example the well-known statue of Christo, the Sugarloaf Mountain, Copacabana and Ipanema beaches as well as football make the city fun for every traveller. Also the favela parties, the experience sports like hanggliding and the nightlife especially in the part of city called Lapa make hard to criticize Rio. Compared for example to Sao Paulo, Rio is quite different. While Sao Paulo is located in inner country being the “business machine” of Brazil with its concrete and urban infrastructure, Rio is perhaps more leisure city closer to the nature to enjoy the more relaxed but still lively life. Still both cities have their totally own advantages. From Sao Paulo to Rio the overnight bus takes about 7 hours and costs about 20 euros. With a plane the prices vary: depending on the date the prices are between 40100 euros back and forth. Salvador The earlier capital of Brazil is located in the state of Bahia, about 2,5 hours flying from Sao Paulo. It is well known about their Portuguese colonial architecture and happy African culture and is worthwhile visiting. However Salvador is quite dangerous compared to other places in Brazil, so higher caution is preferred. From Salvador it is easy to travel to the rest of Bahia. The beach towns like Morro de Sao Paulo and Itacare as well as the fantastic natural park Chiapada Diamantina make the whole state unbelievably beautiful. The weather is mostly warm or hot, which attracts travellers from the whole Brazil. If the exchange period is on spring semester, a worthwhile considering though is to go to Salvador for the carnival. The 3,5 million city goes literally crazy to party for their holidays for more than a week for the largest carnival in the world. The three main carnival zones give you opportunities how to spend your party of your life. Compared for instance to Rio, the carnival in Salvador is more authentic, less touristic and perhaps bit less packed. Iguazu Falls One of the Seven Wonders of the World is located in the border of Brazil and Argentina offers the breath-taking experience to feel the huge waterfalls. The waterfalls can be seen either from the Brazilian side or from the Argentinian side. Both sides are worthwhile for experiencing. From the Brazilian side the general landscape is perhaps bit better by seeing also more the Parana River where the falls drop. On the other hand, the Argentinian side offers much more different waterfalls and it is possible to feel the actual water flow more closely. To enter the Brazilian side, the journey is pretty simple by first going to the park, where a bus brings the visitors to the falls. To enter to Argentinian side the journey is bit more complicated. You have to pass the border with either a bus or with a taxi. On the border you have get a stamp to your passport when you enter to Argentina as well as you leave the Argentinian side. However for the Finnish people, a visa is not needed. When crossing the border with a bus you have to know when to leave the bus in the right stop to get the stamp and continue with the next bus towards the park where the falls are. There are also plenty of taxis which offers you “a full service” which means that they pick you from the Brazilian side, pays your entering the border and get the stamps, drive you to the park and pick you back to Brazil when you want. Compared to the efforts when you don´t have to do anything, using this taxi the price is reasonable: for one person it costs about 30 euros. Remember also to acquire American dollars for the Argentinian side to pay the fee to the park. From Sao Paulo the easiest way to travel to Iguazu falls is to fly about 1,5 to town Foz do Iguazu. From the town it is possible to travel both sides of the fall. The bus from Sao Paulo is much more cheaper but takes about 17 hours so the journey is rather long. General living While Brazil is so diverse country in every way, it is challenging to give any universal guidelines how to behave, where to go etc. From north to south and from east to west the landscapes, cities and especially the people are very different, but in an extremely positive way. I have hardly never been in a country where different people are tolerated so well and treated so kindly as in Brazil. Brazil is known for the samba and outdoor bars and restaurants, which offer you delicious food and drinks with a reasonable price. Brazilians like live music and this is one of the best things to experience when traveling the country. The music styles vary depending where you travel from funk and samba to rap, rock and axe. Also various other music is offered and the amount of gigs where to enter is huge. When we discuss about Brazil, it is almost impossible not speak about safety issues which have also been under the global discussion. It is true that the country is still quite in equal and especially in large cities the crime and violence has been a serious issue for the government. In addition, the latest corruption charges in the national oil company Petrobras have created anxiety among the Brazilian citizens. However, I personally would not restrict the visiting or traveling possibilities in Brazil based on the safety concerns. Still most parts of the Brazil are safe places to live or visit for any people. In large cities like in Sao Paulo, Rio and in Salvador most of the places where to visit are safe and the people are nice. Also the rest of the country is even safer. Foreign people, especially the Europeans are respected people and the local citizens are very curious to know about your culture and the way you live. Simply the easiest way to get out of troubles is to stay away from low income and dangerous parts of cities, e.g. the favelas. It is easy to skip these places and you don´t arrive there by accident. Also, during the night time, prefer to move in groups, especially if you are a girl. Using a taxi as well as buses and metros are also a safe way to travel; especially taxis are safe and in general operating honestly with a meter. Finally, based on the heard stories the most of the troubles were based on the situations where the people were alone and inebriated during the night in a place, which was unknown. This is the most common way to get into the trouble and also is dependent of people’s own judgement how they behave. Of course there are other situations where some bad can happen but this is the most common initial setting for something to happen. Thus the main point is to be aware and understand that the possibility to get into troubles exist but do not let that to restrict too much the behaviour where to go or to whom to speak. If you are too cautious, you will not only limit your personal positive experiences about the country but it can expose you even more to troubles during your journey. Remember to relax and concentrate on the receptive people, the beautiful places and the various cultures what the country can offer. That´s Brazil. 4. Final comments Would you recommend the host university to other students? I most definitely recommend FGV to other students of Aalto. The level of the courses might not be quite as high as back home and the way of studying is not as interactive as what I was used to in Aalto, but the experience was undeniably worthwhile. FGV is the leading business school in the country—and perhaps in whole of South America—which can be seen from the professionalism of its professors. Still I would not attend FGV if studies themselves were your number one motivation for going on an exchange. The large size of their exchange program and the fact that it is a CEMS school brings along an international atmosphere and excellent networking opportunities. FGV also offers a great variety of free sports and I strongly recommend joining a team. On top of FGV being a strong brand and a good university, the city of São Paulo is something to experience. Like New York in North America, São Paulo is the mecca of urban culture in South America. With the abundance of restaurants, bars and art galleries, it is impossible to be bored in São Paulo, unless you stay at home. Is there anything you would do differently if you were going to the same university for another exchange? I might consider again taking the Portuguese language class, as many of the exchange students got to know each other well already at that course. I would also bring along my basketball shoes and join the basketball team (basketball shoes cost a lot in Brazil!). Other than that, I wouldn’t change a thing. What did you learn during your exchange? I learned that the Brazilian people are the nicest and warmest people on the planet. Everyone wishes that you will have the best time in their country and they will do anything to help you. I learned a lot about the challenges in the country and how it operates. I learned about the history of Brazil and its people. I also learned a lot about other countries and cultures from the other exchange students. I learned Portuguese and I learned tons of phrases in other languages. I learned jujitsu. I learned how to surf. I learned how to make a perfect caipirinha and I learned there’s always time for another one. What did you learn about yourself during the exchange? I learned that I am exotic and interesting in the eyes of millions. I learned that my humor is appreciated also in a totally different culture. I learned that I am very privileged to be born in a place where I get quality education for free and where everyone is taken care of by the state and no one is left alone.
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