T h e G a r d e n S pa d e
A monthly gardening publication of the University of Missouri Extension -- Southeast and East Central Regions
B r i g h t e n Yo u r H o m e w i t h P l a n t s
December 2015
by Katie Kammler, MU Ext. Horticulture Specialist
In this issue:
Most common house plants are tender
tropical plants that will grow under the
conditions inside a house. Some are
grown for their flowers, others for
their foliage. Most
grow naturally in the
shade and a lot of
them can withstand
neglect from their
caretakers. I have a
lot of house plants but
A
I will admit they
sometimes do not get
the best of care. Time
to water and fertilize
can be in short supply
but overall, they take
the abuse pretty well
B
and survive.
This time of year there
are a lot of plants
available that are
seasonal and can be
kept as house plants.
Amaryllis bulbs and
C
Christmas cactus are in
A. Christmas Cactus;
all the stores this time C. African Violet
of year. I have a lot of
amaryllis because I love the large
blooms in shades of red, pink, and
white. They are fairly easy to care for
but require heavy fertilization to get a
bloom the second year. I carry them
all outside in the summertime and
leave them on the porch until it gets
cool. Then I cut the leaves off and let
them dry out, storing them in a dark
closet until they start to send up buds
in the winter. Christmas cacti also
makes good house
plants with blooms of
pink, red, white, and
peach. I have one that
has been in my family
for at least four
generations. My
Thanksgiving cactus are
in full bloom right now
and the Christmas
cactus is full of buds.
The key to getting
them to bloom is
shocking them. In my
house this isn’t a
problem—when it gets
cold, they set buds.
Other ways to get
them to set buds
include withholding
water for two weeks
and then giving them
B. Amaryllis;
fertilizer or putting
them in a dark closet for
a week.
African violets are another favorite of
mine because of the variety available
and their long bloom times. They are
also easy to propagate and share with
friends. Jade plants and mother-inlaw’s tongue (snake plant) are
Brighten Your
Home with Plants
1, 2
Garden Myth:
Stake
Transplanted
Trees
2
December
Gardening
Calendar
3
Poinsettia Trivia
3
Using Kid Pools
for Gardens
4
Time to Turn in
4
Master Gardener
Hours!
Time for Tool
Maintenance
5
False Climbing
Buckwheat
6
Hort Definitions:
Going Green
6
The Fresh Cut
Christmas Tree
7
Upcoming Events
7
Editor’s Corner
8
University of Missouri, Lincoln
University, U.S. Department of
Agriculture & Local University
Extension Councils Cooperating
equal opportunity/ADA
institutions
B r i g h t e n Yo u r H o m e w i t h P l a n t s
Secondar y Stor y Headline
by Katie Kammler, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist
succulents that can withstand considerable abuse.
Nephthytis, heart-leaf philodendron, and golden
pothos are also tough plants that require very little
care, except trimming when they get out of hand.
Larger house plants include schefflera, ficus, rubber
plant, and Norfolk Island pine. The size of these
plants sometimes depends on the size of the pot
they are in and how much ceiling room you have.
These are just a few of the houseplants available.
For more information on care and types of house
plants, refer to these guides or call your local
extension office.
http://extension.missouri.edu/explorepdf/agguides/hort/
g06510.pdf
http://urbanext.illinois.edu/houseplants/default.cfm
G a r d e n M y t h - S t a ke Tr a n s p l a n t e d Tr e e s
Sarah Denkler, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist
You may notice at newly installed commercial
landscapes, every new tree is staked. This is done
to keep the tree from blowing over in the wind or
being pushed over by someone or something. This
practice is often mimicked in home landscapes by
homeowners or professional landscapers who
install home landscapes. Staking is not necessary.
and remove the ties to prevent girdling.
There is another reason to remove the ties after 6
months. A tree gets strength from the wind. As
the tree is blown from side to side, the cells grow
to withstand the wind, causing the trunk to become
stronger. If the wind is not allowed to move the
tree, the trunk will remain weak. In horticultural
circles, the response of trees
and plants to wind is called
thigmomorphogenesis. The
buffeting from wind releases
ethylene gas, a growth
mediator that triggers the
formation of woodstrengthening lignin.
The reality is that staking does
far more harm to a tree than
help. The biggest issue is when
stakes are installed but never
removed. The string, wire or
plastic used to keep a tree
upright will eventually restrict
its growth as the tree becomes
larger. These ties will girdle
I have seen 15 foot tall trees
the trunk or branch and
weep to the ground when a
Girdled tree trunk from stakes left too long From
eventually cause the death of
University of Delaware cooperative extension.
stake was removed because
the tree. Commercial
that stake was all that was
nurseries who stake trees for easy transport and
holding the tree up. Trees that are staked too long
stability usually remove the ties on stakes within 6
will become taller, with thinner trunks, and may
months if the tree is not replanted.
never recover to stand on their own.
If a tree is so weak that staking is needed to keep it
If a tree gets knocked over with the root ball
upright then it is likely that it was staked too tightly
moving as well then try adding stability bars
or too long in the nursery. Provide a stake that is
through the root zone until the roots become
loosely tied to the trunk, with a 4 inch gap, so the
established. In less than one year the roots should
tree can move with the wind and learn to stand on
be able to hold the tree up and you can remove the
its own. In addition, follow the 6 month practice
stability bar.
The Garden Spade
Page 2
December Gardening Calendar
By Donna Aufdenberg, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist
Outdoor Plants and Ornamentals
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Be sure the root zones of azaleas and rhododendrons are thoroughly
mulched.
Hollies and other evergreens may be trimmed now and the
prunings used in holiday decorations. Trimings last longer
during the holidays if kept at cooler temperatures.
Check summer bulbs in storage. If they are sprouting, place
them in a cooler spot. Moldy or damaged roots must be
removed and discarded. Molding indicates over-moist
conditions. Shriveling indicates bulbs are too dry. Place
them in a container with potting soil, peat moss, or sawdust to stop the loss
of water.
Indoor Plants
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Lining shelves or window sills with aluminum foil reflects light and provides
extra light for house plants. Supplemental light might also be needed.
On cold nights, move houseplants back from icy windows to prevent chilling
injury. Move plants away from drafty areas around entryways and doors.
Overwintering geraniums like bright light and cool temperatures. Keep soils
on the dry side.
Water housplants with tepid water. Cold tap water may shock plants.
Phalaenopsis orchids and holiday cactus benefit from cooler temperatures
next to a window or in a cool room to trigger flowering.
Fruits and Nuts
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Leave a bare circle, one foot wide, around fruit tree trunks when spreading
mulch so the mice won’t nest there.
Wrap trunks of fruit trees to prevent rabbit damage and sunscald to trunks.
Pecans continue to fall so look for them after periods of wind. They are also
easy to spot on top of snow but you have to beat the squirrels to them!
Mulch strawberries for winter protection once cold temperatures arrive.
Miscellaneous
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C1ean and oil all garden hand tools before storing for winter. All power
equipment should be winterized before storage.
A diary or record book can help the home gardener keep track of what’s
happening during the garden season such as planting dates, weather events,
pest problems, size of harvest or even new ideas for next year.
Seed catalogs start to arrive. If you are longing for spring, start making wish
lists and orders. Otherwise, put them all together for a time when you are
dreaming of spring!
The Garden Spade
Poinsettia Trivia
Grown outdoors in
subtropical climates,
poinsettia grows
into large shrubs or
small trees up to 16
feet.
Poinsettias flower in
response to longer
nights. They need
12 to14 hours of
darkness each night
to flower.
A misdiagnosed
death of a toddler in
1919 led people to
incorrectly believe
that poinsettias are
poisonous.
Research shows
they are non-toxic.
However, they can
still cause stomach
upset.
In fourteenth
century, Aztecs
used the leaves to
dye fabric and the
sap for medicinal
purposes.
The poinsettia color
most sold in the
U.S. is the
traditional red
color.
December 12 is
National Poinsettia
Day observed since
the mid-1800s.
Page 3
U s i n g K i d Po o l s f o r G a r d e n s
Secondar y Stor y Headline
by Jason McKaskle, Cape County Master Gardener Intern
I have been using small kid swimming pools as
raised beds and containers for a few years now.
They are cheap and easy to make.
Just by using scissors to make holes in the bottom
for good drainage, they make a type of raised bed.
You can also cut the bottom out by following the
line in the bottom. Either way, then you can use
the ring for the sides of the bed.
It takes about two 1.5 cu. ft bags of soil to fill a
small kid pool, but you can add a little more if you
need it a bit deeper. You will want to pick the
location for your beds first and then decide on the
design, soil, and plants that will be used.
I have planted herbs such as basil, hot and spicy
oregano, dill, horseradish, red mustard, flowers
tomatoes and peppers. I have also planted
various types of tomatoes and peppers in the
pools and have surrounded them with dwarf
marigold, zinnias, cosmos, and herbs. These
have provided an atmosphere for pollination
and beneficial insects. These combinations
have made the difference during this hard year
on gardening.
Each year I shovel the soil out of my pool beds and
empty my containers into a wheelbarrow and break
up the soil, I then put it back into the beds and
containers and add any new soil that’s needed and
some amendments.
The most important things I have learned in using
these pools are the importance of location and
spacing of the beds. It is important to allow space
for using a weed eater between the beds, for
weeding in your beds and proper spacing.
Choosing the proper soil and amendments as well
as plants in your zone is also important.
Plant rotation can easily be done in these raised
beds. You might also think about planting a cover
crop in your beds in the fall.
T i m e t o Tu r n i n M a s t e r G a r d e n e r H o u r s !
By Donna Aufdenberg, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist
It is time to turn in your Master Gardener
Volunteer Hours! If you have already completed
your volunteer hours for the year, please get them
reported online or send to your local Master
Gardener Coordinator (addresses are located on
the back of this newsletter).


If you need a new copy of the volunteer record
sheet, you can find it at http://
mg.missouri.edumg forms.htm or contact your
local coordinator and they will send you one.
We are really encouraging the online
reporting system this year. Check out:
http://report.missourimastergardener.com/
The Garden Spade

Every year we update the Master Gardener
Directory. If you have not turned in Master
Gardener Hours for 3 years, you will be moved
to the inactive list.

If you have not turned in hours in previous
years and want to be active again, contact us!

If any of your information has changed (address,
phone, or email), please let us know.
These hours are important to us! They help
ensure the continuance of the program.
If you have problems reporting hours, let
one of us know...we are here to help!
Page 4
T i m e f o r To o l M a i n t e n a n c e
Secondar y Stor y Headline
by Donna Aufdenberg, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist
As the growing season ends, many of us are rushing
around trying to get our gardens and landscape
beds cleaned up and things put away. Before you go
and put your tools away however, you might
consider doing a bit of maintenance on them to
leave them in great shape for the start of the next
go around in 2016.
Sharp, non-rusty tools are very
important for the ease and safety of
performing gardening tasks. Begin
by removing caked on soil or
vegetation from all tools using a
wire brush, scraper or a strong
stream of water. A flat file is good
for sharpening shovels, hoes, blades
on pruning shears or blades on a
lawn mower.
Why is sharpness so important?
Shovels and hoes need to have
sharp edges to give a good cut.
Sharp blades help to prevent
disease because they cut rather
than tear or bruise tissue.
Sharpness also reduces the amount of force you
have to use when digging. When you encounter a
root, a sharp-edged shovel will allow a nice clean
cut to occur, and the root will recover faster.
Cutting weeds with a sharp hoe requires less work
and it's easier on the hands and back.
When sharpening with a flat file, wear a pair of
gloves to reduce the risk of cutting yourself on the
sharpened edge. Long, diagonal strokes with the file
gives a more uniform cutting edge to the tool than
short strokes in one spot on a blade. If a bench
grinder is available, the sharpening goes much more
quickly.
Check all tools thoroughly for loose screws or nuts
and tighten them accordingly. Replace or repair
broken handles or broken parts. Then it is
important to treat all bare metal parts and cutting
The Garden Spade
edges with oil to prevent rust. A simple way to oil
tools is to push the metal parts into a five-gallon
bucket of oily sand or you can just wipe pruners
and other cutting equipment with an oily rag to
prevent rust formation. Be careful not to cut
yourself on the sharp edges.
Don’t forget to wipe wooden handles with linseed
oil to help prevent wood from
cracking and drying. You can also
paint handles red or orange for
quick location in the garden.
Colored tapes can also be used.
Hang tools in their proper storage
spot so you can remember where
they are next year (especially
pruning shears…I have multiple
pairs because I always seem to
misplace them!).
While hoses don't need a great deal
of care, care is needed if we want
them to last. Store hoses on hose
supports or reels or coil loosely
rather than hanging them on nails.
Hose supports or reels prevent sagging and kinking.
Before storing hoses away for the winter, drain all
the water from them and store in a dry location.
Water expands as it freezes and can burst hoses.
All sprayer parts should be thoroughly washed,
rinsed and dried. Most pesticides recommend
triple rinsing of sprayers. Apply oil to moving parts
as listed in owner's manual.
Wheelbarrows, carts and wagons may also need
some attention before winter. Clean them
thoroughly and touch up paint chips with spray
paint to prevent exposed steel from rusting.
Grease wheels to prevent squeaking.
All these maintenance steps help to make a good
start to next spring’s gardening season. You will be
glad you made time to do it this fall.
Page 5
Pe s t o f t h e M o n t h : F a l s e C l i m b i n g B u c k w h e a t
by Katie Kammler, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist
False climbing buckwheat is a common weed that
many deal with in their gardens. It is in the
Polygonaceae family that includes smartweeds. It
can be an annual or perennial climber with very
rapid growth. It forms masses of curtain like
twining red stems with heart shaped waxy leaves
that cover other plants. The flowers are tiny but
are produced in abundance on long racemes so
they are showy. They are greenish white with
wings. They bloom July to November and
produce a fruit enclosed in the remains of the
winged calyx from the flower. The seeds are
shiny and smooth, dark brown to black. They
resemble and taste like buckwheat.
aggressive growing habit and the many seeds it
produces. On the other hand, it does provide a
nectar source for many insects. The leaves are a
food source for some insects and the seeds are
eaten by many types of birds. The dense vines
provide cover for wildlife.
False climbing buckwheat is found throughout the
state and is a tough weed to control because of its
Hor t Definitions: Going Green
By Donna Aufdenberg, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist
What does “Going Green” mean? Many people
associate “Green” with organic gardening but it is a
term that can be utilized in every part of our lives.
Going green is about sustainability - how we can
utilize what we have around us to improve our
environment and reduce, reuse and recycle! It
also involves rethinking the ways we do things. No
matter how you interpret “green”, there are steps
you can take to reduce the negative impacts of
your garden, home, or business. In gardening,
going green can be as simple as:
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Utilizing leaves, grass clippings, and vegetable
scrap for organic matter in compost bins.
Rethinking buying bagged anything. Seek out
bulk if possible.
Rethinking garden pots. Look for pots made of
peat or consider making your own pots out of
newspaper for seed starting.
Recycle garden pots if possible. If they cannot
be recycled, try to find a place to donate them.
The Garden Spade
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Using grey water from showers,
bathtubs, dishwashers, washing
machines and sinks for watering
plants.
Efficiently watering plants with
soaker hoses and drip hoses.
Using newspaper as ground barriers under
mulch or shred it and use it as a “brown” in
your compost pile.
Using natural or organic fertilizers.
Keeping soils healthy by continually adding
organic matter.
Collecting non-hybrid and open pollinated
seeds for re-sowing or re-starting next year.
Starting a worm farm. (vermicomposting)
Promoting beneficial insects in the garden to
help control pests.
Utilizing “safe” pesticides that are deemed
organic, natural, or botanical.
Install a rain barrel for collecting and using
rainwater.
Page 6
Upcoming Events
The following Master Gardener meetings are held each month.
All are welcome to attend. Please contact the local
extension office to confirm location if you did not attend the
previous meeting.
Parkland MGs - 1st Monday at 6:30pm, Horticulture Classroom at
Mineral Area College, Farmington, MO
Poplar Bluff MGs - 1st Tuesday at 6:00pm at Holy Cross Episcopal
Church in Poplar Bluff, MO (Do not meet in January)
Ste. Genevieve MGs - 2nd Thursday, at 6:30pm, Ste. Genevieve County
Extension Center
Cape Girardeau MGs - 3rd Thursday at 7:00pm, Cape County Extension
Center
Perry MGs - 4th Monday at 6:30pm, Perry County Extension Center
Jackson Beekeepers - 4th Tuesday @ 7:00pm, First Presbyterian Church,
206 E Washington, Jackson, MO
SEMO Honey Producers - 2nd Thursday @ 6:30pm, Church of Christ,
Poplar Bluff, MO (Do not meet in December or January)
Parkland Beekeepers - 3rd Tuesday @7:00pm, North College Center,
Mineral Area College, Park Hills, MO
South Central MO Beekeepers - 1st Friday, Howell Electric Coop, West
Plains, MO
Tuesday, January 26, 2016 - Fruit Tree Pruning Workshop. Beggs Farm,
Benton, MO. Call the Benton Extension Center at (573) 545-3516 to register.
Saturday, February 13, 2016 - Perryville Garden Symposium
Friday, February 19, 2016 - Fruit Tree Pruning Workshop. Rural Route 1,
Box 1409B, Thayer, MO. Call the extension center at 417-778-7490 to register.
Cost $10.00
Saturday, March 5, 2016 - Parkland Garden Symposium, Mineral Area
College, Park Hills, MO
Thursday, March 10, 2016 - Farmers Market Workshop at the Cape
Girardeau County Extension Center, Lower level, in Cape Girardeau, MO
Saturday, March 12, 2016 - Native Plant and Garden Seminar in MDC Nature
Center in Cape Girardeau
April 14-17, 2016 - Dogwood-Azalea Festival, Charleston, MO.
If you have a horticultural related event for the calendar call 573-686-8064 or email it to
[email protected].
The Garden Spade
The Fresh Cut
C h r i s t m a s Tre e
By Donna Aufdenberg, MU
Extension Horticulture
Specialist
The joyful season is upon us when everyone is
rushing to decorate and shop for the holidays.
This year, consider a fresh cut tree. Seek out
a local tree farm and support your local
farmer.
The pleasant fragrance of a
fresh cut tree and the beauty
of its full branches is enough
of a reason to justify the extra
care it takes to maintain it
through the holiday season.
To pick a good specimen,
grasp the tree between your thumb and
forefinger and pull toward you. Very few
needles will come off if the tree is fresh. Then
take a few needles and bend them. If they
spring back, the tree is fresh. Try to avoid
trees that when bumped, many needles or
brown needles fall to the ground. The length
of time a tree has been cut affects the trees
freshness. Try to select a tree that has been
cut for a shorter period of time.
If your tree has been cut for more than an
hour, then you will have to re-cut one inch
from the trunk and place the tree in water
immediately. A fresh tree may use more than
a gallon of water a day. Once your tree is
inside, you should place the trunk in a stable
container that can hold one to two gallons of
water. Check the water level each day and
make sure the trunk base is covered with
water. Keep the tree away from heat sources
such as air ducts, radiators, and fireplaces.
If properly cared for, a fresh cut tree can last
up to 3 weeks in the house without losing too
many needles. Additional information on this
topic can be requested from your local
University of Missouri Extension Office.
Page 7
E d i t o r ’s C o r n e r
The Garden Spade is published monthly by University of Missouri
Extension staff for individuals and families living in Southeast and
East Central Missouri. This newsletter is provided by your local
extension council.
Editors:
Katie Kammler, Plant Science Specialist
255 Market St., Ste. Genevieve, MO 63670
573-883-3548
Sarah Denkler, Horticulture Specialist
222 North Broadway Street, Poplar Bluff, MO 63901
573-686-8064
We welcome and encourage Master Gardener groups
and individuals to submit items to the newsletter. We
encourage the submission of any news such as
upcoming volunteer opportunities, community events
related to gardening, warm wishes or congratulations to
fellow gardeners. We also encourage Master
Gardeners sharing experiences and writing articles on
timely topics.
All entries into the group news sections must be
received by 4:30 on the15th of each month for the
following month’s news.
Email news to: [email protected],
[email protected], or [email protected]
Donna Aufdenberg, Horticulture Specialist
Disclaimer: No special endorsement of mentioned
302 Union Street, PO Box 19, Marble Hill, MO 63764
products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar
573-238-2420
products not mentioned.
December 2015 Garden Spade
Ste. Genevieve County Extension
255 Market St.
Ste. Genevieve, MO 63670
University of Missouri, Lincoln University, U.S. Department of Agriculture & Local University Extension Councils Cooperating
equal opportunity/ADA institutions