TB0375 John Zerio Clint Christensen Geoffrey Howell Volcom—Building an Authentic Brand Introduction The Volcom brand is an ingrained component of the skateboarding culture that emerged from Southern California. The spirit of independence and rebelliousness is etched in its “youth against establishment” slogan and its positioning. Skateboarding, from a marketing perspective, has, in the last fifteen years, transcended U.S. borders and became a global cultural phenomenon. As the brand reaches foreign shores, it faces the challenge of creating local roots in different youth environments. Authenticity, the brand’s most powerful value, was built in Southern California. Worldwide, millennials show distinct traits. They like brands that are open source and embrace participation. They are sensitive to diversity, value global community, and care about the environment. They spend almost six hours a day online, and use social media daily. In addition, skateboarding and all action sports are increasingly connected with music and popular culture. Volcom’s marketing is challenged to find a balance between global revenue growth and sustaining the authentic values of the skating culture: risk-taking, individuality, opposition to authority, and cooperation. It needs to learn to think beyond California and the U.S. and be more globally minded in order to seize the opportunities History Richard Woolcott and Tucker Hall founded Volcom in 1991 in Orange County, California. With $5,000 from Woolcott’s father, they started a riding company based around the three sports that they enjoyed—snowboarding, skateboarding, and surfing. Initially, Volcom’s headquarters were set up in Newport Beach, CA, in Richard’s bedroom, and all of the sales were run out of Tucker’s bedroom in Huntington Beach, CA. Although snowboarding and skateboarding were looked down on in the United States, Orange County, CA, was the epicenter for board sports culture. The idea of snowboarding and skateboarding as a counter culture helped Volcom adopt the philosophy of youth against establishment, which became the brand slogan. Initially, Woolcott and Hall knew nothing about making or selling clothes. Clothing sales for that first year were $2,600, and Woolcott and Hall both believed that all they needed was spirit and creativity. Eventually, the company matured internally and, while maintaining the same philosophy, Volcom has slowly spread across the world. On June 30, 2005, Volcom went public with an IPO of $89.1 million. From 2007 to 2009, Volcom was approached by several companies interested in doing a strategic transaction. It wasn’t until 2009 that Volcom started to think about the possibility of a transaction more seriously. In May 2011, the Kering group, a world leader in apparel and accessories that owns a portfolio of luxury, sport, and lifestyle brands, purchased Volcom for $608 million. Some of Kering’s luxury brands include Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and Saint Laurent, to name a few. Within the sports and lifestyle brands, Kering owns Puma, Volcom, Cobra, Electric, and Tretorn. Copyright © 2014 Thunderbird School of Global Management. All rights reserved. This case was prepared by Professor John Zerio, Clint Christensen-MBA’14, and Geoffrey Howell-MBA’14, for the purpose of classroom discussion only, and not to indicate either effective or ineffective management. This document is authorized for use only by Matthew Skarbek ([email protected]). Copying or posting is an infringement of copyright. Please contact [email protected] or 800-988-0886 for additional copies. The Founders Richard Woolcott and Tucker Hall were pioneers in action sports who embodied everything that Volcom represents today. At the time they founded Volcom, Tucker Hall had just been laid off, but decided to go on their annual snowboarding trip to Tahoe anyway. After four days of riding powder (i.e., snowboarding on soft, fresh snow), Woolcott called in to work and told his boss that he was snowed in and couldn’t return for a few more days. For more than a week, they woke up each morning with fresh snow to ride on. Two weeks later, Woolcott quit his job so he could dedicate more time to snowboarding. It was then that Woolcott and Hall started talking about forming a company based on snowboarding, surfing, and skateboarding. The company, which later became Volcom, was a family of people not willing to accept the suppression of established ways. True to Woolcott and Hall’s lifestyle, youth against establishment was born. For the next two years, the two founders traveled the world with friends snowboarding wherever they could. Since its beginning, Volcom has grown in popularity with snowboarding, surfing, and skating enthusiasts worldwide. Although the company is much larger today, the Volcom philosophy has stayed the same. Richard Woolcott was keenly aware of the profound relationship between sports, music, art, and fashion, and the creative, enlightened environment that results when all elements are interwoven and pushed to new heights by some of the most creative minds in the world. When this occurs, he believed, an unmistakable attitude was created and, if done correctly, an attitude definitively associated with a particular brand. Volcom was able to create such an environment, and the vehicle for increased popularity of board sports was Volcom Entertainment. Products Volcom is an innovative designer, marketer, and distributor of premium-quality clothing, footwear, and accessories for young men and women. Positioned as a premier brand, Volcom products include T-shirts, jackets, boardshorts, denim, outerwear, sandals, women’s swimwear, and a collection of kids’ and boys’ clothing. Volcom products set the industry standard for style and quality in each of their six product categories: men, women, boys, footwear, swimwear, and snow. Each product is created for participants in surfing, skateboarding, and snowboarding by combining fashion, functionality, and athletic performance. Volcom products appeal to both board sports participants and those who affiliate themselves with the action sports lifestyle. The Brand Volcom was the first company to combine surfing, skateboarding, and snowboarding under one brand from its inception. The Volcom brand is symbolized by the Volcom Stone and is driven by the energy of youth culture, action sports athletes, innovation, and creativity. The Volcom Stone imagery is reinforced through the sponsorship of world-class athletes, targeted grassroots marketing events, advertising, producing, and selling music under the Volcom Entertainment label, and creating board sports-influenced films through 2TB0375 This document is authorized for use only by Matthew Skarbek ([email protected]). Copying or posting is an infringement of copyright. Please contact [email protected] or 800-988-0886 for additional copies. Veeco Productions, Volcom’s film division. The Volcom brand embodies its youth against establishment motto, which has become a company-wide philosophy that supports young creative thinking and flows through its art, music, films, athletes, and clothing. Distribution In order to enhance its brand image, Volcom operates a tightly controlled distribution system. The company sells its products solely to retailers that will merchandise its products in a way that supports and reinforces the brand and will provide a superior in-store experience. The independent board shops and boutiques are the soul of the industry and a hallmark of Volcom’s authenticity. This strategy has enabled Volcom to develop strong relationships with such retailers as 17th Street Surf, Becker Surfboards, Froghouse, Hotline, Huntington Surf & Sport, IG Performance, K5 Board Shop, Macy’s, Nordstrom, Pacific Sunwear, Snowboard Connection, Sun Diego, Surfside Sports, Tilly’s, Val Surf, West Beach, and Zumiez, among others. In addition, Volcom operates 47 full-price Volcom-branded retail stores, and licenses an additional eight full-price stores in strategic markets around the world. Sales Volcom products are sold throughout the United States and in more than 40 countries worldwide. Through in-house sales personnel, independent sales representatives, and distributors, Volcom products can be found in the United States, Europe, Canada, Latin America, Asia Pacific, and Puerto Rico. Volcom also receives royalties on the sale of Volcom-branded products sold by licensees. Product revenues in the United States were $195.8 million, $174.3 million, and $157.6 million for 2008, 2007, and 2006, respectively. Revenues from European operations were $77.9 million, $40.1 million, and $4.5 million in 2008, 2007, and 2006, respectively. Product revenues in Europe have increased as Volcom recognizes the direct sales of products in the European market. Product revenues in markets other than the United States and Europe were $58.4 million, $50.8 million, and $39.1 million in 2008, 2007, and 2006,1 respectively. Recent comments by financial analysts2 and inferences from recent interview with Kering’s executives3 indicate estimated sales revenue for 2013 of $254 million. According to the same report, Volcom experienced a drop in 2013 revenue of 6.2%, reflecting the competitive difficulties caused by the global recession. Corporate Structure In February 2007, Volcom completed the construction of its European headquarters in Anglet, France, as part of the strategy to take direct control over European operations. In 2008, Volcom entered into an agreement to take direct control of its brand in the UK and further expanded internationally by acquiring the distributor for Volcom-branded products in Japan. In addition to international expansion, on January 17, 2008, Volcom acquired all of the outstanding membership interests of Electric Visual Evolution LLC, or Electric. Volcom ended 2013 with 47 stores worldwide. The company reorganized its activities in order to consolidate its global presence. The move resulted in the globalization of structure, process, and decision making in the areas of marketing, merchandising, product design, supply chain, and finance. Product Development Volcom products are designed and developed by teams in the Orange County, CA, headquarters as well as the European headquarters. These teams are organized into groups that focus on men’s, women’s, and boys’ snow wear, and women’s swimwear categories. In addition to Volcom’s in-house design teams, each of the international licensees employs designers and merchandisers to create products that reflect local trends, while staying consistent with the Volcom brand. The in-house design teams and the designers from the international licensees meet several times a year to collaborate and develop designs that reflect trends from around the world. The collaboration between in-house designers and international licensee designers helps create products that look consistent throughout Years for which annual report data was publicly available. “Kering Tells Us Almost Nothing About Volcom’s Results,” Jeff Harbaugh & Associates, blog entry, October 29, 2013. 3 Montgomery, T. “Kering Details Volcom and Electric Results 2013,” http://www.shop-eat-surf.com, July 8, 2014, http:// www.shop-eat-surf.com/2014/02/kering-details-volcom-and-electric-2013-results/. 1 2 TB03753 This document is authorized for use only by Matthew Skarbek ([email protected]). Copying or posting is an infringement of copyright. Please contact [email protected] or 800-988-0886 for additional copies. all markets. In addition to the design teams, Volcom involves team riders and important retail accounts in the design process to help develop the style and functionality of products. This added input reinforces the Volcom brand and provides additional insight into consumer preferences and fashion trends. Volcom follows a design calendar for five major seasons: spring, summer, fall, snow, and holiday. Each season’s product lines incorporate new looks and features based on feedback from sponsored athletes and important retailers. Manufacturing Volcom does not operate any manufacturing facilities, but instead sources products from independently owned manufacturers based on their expertise in a specific product line. Apparel and accessories are purchased or imported as finished goods from China and Mexico. In fact, Volcom imports more than 75% of its products, most of which are imported from Asian manufacturers. In order to achieve shorter lead times and react quickly to industry trends and demand from retailers, Volcom screen-prints its T-shirts in the United States. International manufacturers are evaluated on the quality of their work, their ability to deliver on time, and cost. Volcom also uses the services of third parties to assess the quality of the products and ensure compliance with applicable labor standards and practices. Aside from two of Volcom’s major manufacturing partners, there is no single manufacturer of finished goods that accounts for more than 10% of Volcom’s production expenditure. Volcom does not have any long-term contracts with manufacturers. This allows Volcom the flexibility to reevaluate and change its manufacturing and sourcing strategy when needed. Advertising and Promotion Volcom uses a multifaceted advertising and promotion strategy that incorporates elements of its athletes, fashion, art, music, and film. The company generally does not use outside marketing agencies but, instead, prefers to use its internal marketing and art departments to create advertisements and other grassroots programs. The advertising and promotional events consist of athlete sponsorships, Volcom-branded events, print advertisements, music, film, Volcom-branded retail stores, and online marketing programs. Volcom Entertainment Volcom Entertainment was founded in 1995 primarily as a music label to support musical artists and provide another means for creativity and expression. Ryan Immegart, Volcom’s first sponsored snowboarder, and Richard Woolcott first came up with the concept of Volcom Entertainment. Ryan, as the singer and guitarist of a band named theLINE, had a love for music and all of the necessary components to launch a music label through Volcom. Some of Volcom’s better-known artists today include bands such as ASG, Birds of Avalon, Guttermouth, Pepper, Sabotage Soundsystem, and Valient Thorr. For 10 years, Volcom Entertainment produced the Volcom Stage on the Vans Warped Tour, and in 2007 began its own annual international music tour called “The Volcom Tour.” Today, Volcom Entertainment is perceived as more than just a label through a Web entertainment platform that mixes music, videos, concerts, and blogs around the Volcom brand community and board sports. In 2008, Volcom Entertainment started a vinyl record club called VEVC, which delivers collectible vinyl singles twice a month to subscribers all over the world. Volcom Entertainment also created an annual music contest for unsigned bands called Band Joust, which is another medium that Volcom utilizes to connect music lovers and action sports enthusiasts to its brand. Musicians are a major force in the way millennials dress and express themselves. The indie music space generates a lot of style and diversity, and encourages young people to experiment and be true to their own sense of cool. In addition, these young people are more aware of trends that come from beyond their local scene. The Internet allows faster movement of ideas and designs, and opens the door for many new ways of mixing styles and clothes. 4TB0375 This document is authorized for use only by Matthew Skarbek ([email protected]). Copying or posting is an infringement of copyright. Please contact [email protected] or 800-988-0886 for additional copies. Pepper in Concert on the Volcom Tour Fans Waiting at the Volcom Tour The Vans Warped Tour4 The Warped Tour is a touring music festival that started in 1995 and is sponsored by the skateboard shoe manufacturer, Vans. The tour is held in venues such as parking lots or fields upon which the stages and other structures are erected. The tour began as a showcase for punk rock music, but its more recent lineups have featured diverse genres of music. As well as music, this tour brings many attractions, including a half-pipe for skaters and bikers. The tour also features booths that create a flea market-like atmosphere, with tents for bands, independent record labels, magazine publishers, nonprofit organizations, and sponsors who want to sell and market their products to the tour’s audience. Many bands retreat to their tents after their performance in order to meet fans and sign autographs. The Vans Warped Tour, the Concert Series that Volcom Entertainment Toured with until 2007 Fans at the Vans Warped Tour The Action Sports Industry The action sports industry is a multibillion dollar global industry. In 2012, some of the most successful action sports companies and their respective earnings for the year were the following: Skull Candy—$200 million; Volcom—$332 million; GoPro—$521 million; and Red Bull—$5.75 billion. The action sports industry is characterized by nonmainstream sports such as surfing, skateboarding, snowboarding, skiing, BMX, motocross, wakeboarding, mountain biking, and skydiving. These sports are often associated with young adults who push themselves to the limits of their physical ability and fear; as a result, pushing the boundaries of a particular sport. Action sports are almost always individual activities, as opposed to mainstream sports that are characterized by a team. The activities within action sports often focus on performing tricks or stunts and are perceived as having a high level of danger, difficulty, height, speed, and physical exertion. In order to catch a glimpse of the power of this experience, the reader is strongly encouraged to view the Warped Tour channel (https://www.youtube.com/user/officialwarpedtour) and sample some of the clips, interviews, and user-created content available. 4 TB03755 This document is authorized for use only by Matthew Skarbek ([email protected]). Copying or posting is an infringement of copyright. Please contact [email protected] or 800-988-0886 for additional copies. Major Brands Globally, there are many companies, both public and private, of various sizes and scale within the action sports industry and, while some only focus on one particular sport, there are many companies that embrace two or three sports. Some of the most significant competitors include GoPro; Red Bull; Quicksilver Inc., including the Quicksilver, Roxy, and DC brands; Billabong International Inc., including the Billabong and Element brands; Burton; Reef; Vans; Skull Candy; and Hurley. Within skateboarding, the most significant competitors are Baker, Flip, Plan B, Independent, Birdhouse, Element, KR3W, and Powell Peralta, among many others. The strong presence of Nike in the market, with its Nike SB brand, supported by some very clever advertising and the signing of top riders (e.g., Paul Rodriguez, and Brian Anderson), has heightened the competition in the industry. Action Sports Retailers Some of the major retailers in the action sports industry include Pacific Sunwear, Zumiez, Sun Diego, Tilly’s, Macy’s, and Nordstrom. Smaller retailers also contribute to the distribution and success of action sports companies. The smaller retailers are mostly small skateboard, snowboard, and surf shops that are locally owned and operated. Some examples of the smaller niche retailers are 17th Street Surf, Becker Surfboards, Froghouse, Hotline, Huntington Surf & Sport, IG Performance, K5 Board Shop, Snowboard Connection, Surfside Sports, Val Surf, and West Beach. The Skateboarding Tribe Skating is a passion and a way of expressing an identity. Skaters seek people who share their values and are driven by similar thrill of action. They are a modern representation of the concept of tribe or, as others have proposed, a subculture of consumption. A subculture (a.k.a. tribe) is a subgroup of society that self-selects on the basis of a shared commitment to a particular product class, brand, or consumption activity. A subculture comes into existence as people identify with a certain brand or a consumption activity and, through that brand or consumption activity, identify with other people committed to the same values. Subcultures are typically defined by a hierarchical social structure among members, a unique set of ethos and values that resonate with members, and unique modes of expression that are consistent with all members of the subculture. The social structure, ethos and values, and modes of expression are so robust that they tend to be consistent throughout the world. Subcultures display a hierarchical social structure among the members of the subculture that reflects the status of individual members. Status is determined by an individual’s commitment to the brand, product class, or consumption activity and, as a result, there are layers of membership within the subculture. The hard-core members of a subculture are committed to the values and the lifestyle of the subculture full-time, while the more peripheral members are only committed part-time. The peripheral members typically are new members who are just beginning to become involved in the shared brand or consumption activity, or those people that are fascinated by the lifestyle and participate superficially—the wannabes. The periphery includes those members who participate in the subculture on weekends only and are not committed to the ethos or values during the typical workweek. Within the sport of skateboarding, the hard-core members of the sport are the sponsored professionals, while the periphery includes skateboarders who are new to the sport and people who dress like a skateboarder, but do not participate in the sport itself. There are also members of the skateboarding subculture who fall in between 6TB0375 This document is authorized for use only by Matthew Skarbek ([email protected]). Copying or posting is an infringement of copyright. Please contact [email protected] or 800-988-0886 for additional copies. the core and the periphery. These members are committed to the skateboarding lifestyle and its values, but they may also have a job, a family, be attending college, or have some other commitment that demands their time. Social Dynamics The hard-core members whose commitment to the subculture is full-time and enduring dictate the trends and behavior for the rest of the members of the subculture. In the skateboarding subculture, all trends start at the core and disseminate outward to the periphery. Although the skateboarders in the core look down on the newcomers on the periphery, the periphery serves as an audience to the core and emulates what the core does. As members on the periphery start to skateboard, they look to the core to know how to dress, behave, and skateboard properly. As these peripheral members start to adopt the fashion trends and behavior that is consistent with the core members, they are perceived as being closer to the core. In a similar fashion, as the peripheral members increase their skill level as a skateboarder, they are perceived to be closer to the core. They are no longer viewed as a peripheral member or a newcomer to the sport. Just as the peripheral members look to the core for fashion trends, behavioral norms, and the innovation of skateboarding tricks, skateboarding companies also look to the core for the latest trends in what is considered cool. Skateboarding companies work with core skateboarders in product development, product design, and marketing to be perceived as being an authentic brand within the sport of skateboarding. It is through the coproduction with core skaters that skateboarding companies stay authentic to the sport and create products that are perceived as being cool. In an effort to build awareness and authenticity for their brand, companies increase the visibility of their products with core skateboarders in the form of sponsorships. Sponsorships include giving free products to professional skateboarders, paying a salary, and paying contest entry fees to promote exclusively a certain company’s brand and increase its visibility within the subculture. Kelly Slater Pro Surfer for Quicksilver Ronnie Renner Pro Freestyle Motocross Rider for Red Bull Shaun White Pro Snowboarder for Burton Snowboards The Tribe Culture Ethos and Values Each subculture has certain principles that are consistent throughout the subculture and resonate with its members’ needs and values. The values that exist in a subculture act as drivers for each member’s attitude, behavior, and form of expressing themselves. The core values of skateboarding are risk-taking, individualism, and counterculture. These three values are consistent throughout the skateboarding subculture globally and explain why skateboarders around the world look and act in a similar manner. Risk-Taking Skateboarding is inherently risky and has the potential to be dangerous, but at the same time provide an outcome that creates a feeling of exhilaration and excitement. It is through adrenaline that the body creates that feeling of exhilaration and excitement, which is what skateboarders are actively seeking. Skateboarders are aware of the possibility of injury and understand that injuries are part of improving and pushing themselves. TB03757 This document is authorized for use only by Matthew Skarbek ([email protected]). Copying or posting is an infringement of copyright. Please contact [email protected] or 800-988-0886 for additional copies. It is through risk that skateboarders earn the respect of their peers. The greater the risk and the more difficult the trick being performed, the more respect one will gain from his or her peers. It is also through taking risks that innovation and creativity happen. In order to learn or invent a new trick, a skater typically falls many times before successfully mastering a trick. It is this process of falling over and over that is not only risky, but also necessary for a skateboarder to overcome that risk and feel the exhilaration of landing a trick successfully for the first time. Another type of risk that skateboarders encounter on a regular basis as they try to practice their sport is the risk of getting into trouble with authority. As skateboarders search for new and challenging landscapes to practice on, often they want to skateboard on private property, in city parks, and in parking lots near businesses. Skateboarding on this type of property (also known as street skating) includes jumping down stairs, sliding down handrails, and sliding across cement curbs and benches. At times, street skating can damage the property that is being skated and create a danger for pedestrians who happen to be in the area. Police officers and security guards get called to either remove skateboarders from the area or fine them for breaking posted rules. This type of risk also fosters creativity and respect within the subculture. A skateboarder will find creative ways or times to skate on private property (including setting up lights powered by a generator late at night) to escape being caught by the authorities. Respect from peers is gained when a skateboarder skates at a highly guarded spot and doesn’t get caught by security guards or the police. The exhilaration comes from skating on private property and escaping the consequences of getting caught. Watch Episode 2 and/or 4 of The Making of True to This to understand the mind and heart of skateboarders (http://www.volcom.com/truetothis#ttt-webisode-episode2). Individuality Skateboarders feel an opposition to authority, structured rules, and being told to fit in. As a result, skateboarders purposely go against what is considered normal in an effort to be uniquely individual and set their own boundaries. Skateboarding liberates an individual from mainstream rules, sports, and social structures, because ultimately it is the individual who motivates, teaches, and pushes him or her to become a better skateboarder. There is no coach that tells a skateboarder what to do and how to do it and, as a result, each skateboarder develops his or her own unique style and way to perform tricks. Each skateboarder has the total freedom to choose what he or she will skate and how they will skate it, and this fosters personal creativity in a nontraditional way. This idea of individuality and self-expression is a motivating force for every skateboarder. It encourages creativity and allows skateboarders to distance themselves from conventional society, but still belong to a subgroup of society that shares similar interests and values. While skateboarders make an effort to try to differentiate themselves from the mainstream, the mainstream is the focal point. What skateboarders choose to wear is just as important as what they choose not to wear. The same is true for behavior and other modes of expression— skateboarders must always be aware of what is mainstream in order to differentiate themselves from it. 8TB0375 This document is authorized for use only by Matthew Skarbek ([email protected]). Copying or posting is an infringement of copyright. Please contact [email protected] or 800-988-0886 for additional copies. Tattoos (body art) are also a popular form of expression and creativity among skateboarders. Body art serves a dual purpose for skateboarders—it sets them apart from mainstream society and presents a physical manifestation of opposition to rules and societal norms. Skateboarders differentiate themselves with visible tattoos which allow them to express themselves creatively through the artwork that is permanently inked on their skin. The fact that tattoos are permanent is another way for skateboarders to show their level of commitment to the skateboarding subculture and be perceived as closer to the core. Self-Expression and Creativity as a Form of Individualism Tattoos Are a Form of Differentiation and Individuality Counterculture Because skateboarders are constantly denied access to, or removed from, private property without having an alternative place to skate, they feel alienated from society. Historically, society has looked down on skateboarders, which has only reinforced the idea that they are doing something that is counter to what mainstream society deems normal. As skateboarders are treated like delinquents and outcasts, they dress and behave like delinquents and outcasts. It is consistent with the value of being an individual and not fitting in to widely accepted norms or standards. But, since skateboarders wish to differentiate themselves from the mass market, they must be aware of what the mass market is doing. The mainstream is the focal point for differentiation. Opposition to Authority The Culture Subgroups Within the subculture of skateboarding, there are subgroups whose musical tastes influence the modes of expression within each subgroup so much so that there are visible barriers among the three. These three subgroups are Metal, Hip-hop, and Punk. While each subgroup exhibits different styles, which are influenced by a particular music genre, the values of the skateboarding subculture—risk-taking, individuality, and counterculture—are consistent throughout each subgroup. Metal Subgroup Those skateboarders who adopt the metal aesthetic are characterized by certain modes of expression and rituals. These skateboarders typically have long hair, leather jackets, black clothing, and integrate satanic symbolism into their fashion. Common rituals among this subgroup include head banging, creating devil horns with their fingers, and active involvement in metal music. TB03759 This document is authorized for use only by Matthew Skarbek ([email protected]). Copying or posting is an infringement of copyright. Please contact [email protected] or 800-988-0886 for additional copies. Punk Subgroup The punk subgroup has been around since skateboarding started increasing in popularity in the 1970s in the United States. Punk skateboarders feel as if they were first, because they helped take skateboarding from a casual pastime to a lifestyle with attitude. The punk subgroup’s aesthetic consists of wearing plaid shirts, hair that has been dyed black, long socks, studded belts, and Vans shoes (Vans was the first shoe brand to be adopted by skateboarders in Southern California in the late 1960s and 1970s). Among punk skateboarders there is little appreciation for alternative cultures. Punks often style their hair in a Mohawk and participate in the surf punk scene by moshing (a style of collective dancing to punk music where members of the audience move around in a big circle pushing one another as a release for frustration and aggression). Hip-Hop Subgroup Skateboarders in the hip-hop subgroup have an entirely different aesthetic than skateboarders in the metal or punk subgroups. The hip-hop subgroup is characterized by oversized clothing, large pieces of jewelry, fitted hats with sports teams logos, and baggy pants. Skateboarders in the hip-hop subgroup are confrontational by nature, smoke marijuana regularly, have a stronger opposition to authority (as many hip-hop skateboarders are minorities), and are more heavily tattooed than most skateboarders. 10TB0375 This document is authorized for use only by Matthew Skarbek ([email protected]). Copying or posting is an infringement of copyright. Please contact [email protected] or 800-988-0886 for additional copies. New Subgroup: Hessian A relatively a new subgroup has emerged in the skateboarding subculture. That subgroup is known as hessian (pronounced heshan). What distinguishes hessian skateboarders from other skateboarders is that they do not adopt any particular style. Hessians are characterized by their lack of hygiene, excessive facial hair, long hair, and dirty clothes. Skateboarders in this subgroup don’t care about appearances and they don’t try to stand out in any way. Their focus is more on skateboarding and becoming better skateboarders rather than on attitude or trying to make a statement. Contrary to most skateboarders’ desire to stand out from the norm, hessians blend in with society. Often, skateboarders cannot distinguish a hessian from someone who doesn’t skateboard at all. TB037511 This document is authorized for use only by Matthew Skarbek ([email protected]). Copying or posting is an infringement of copyright. Please contact [email protected] or 800-988-0886 for additional copies. Authenticity Ruined: No Fear Substory: NO FEAR In 1989, brothers Mark and Brian Simo were determined to carve out their own niche in the recently flourishing fitness industry, and decided to create a clothing company geared toward active lifestyle consumers. Since neither brother had any significant experience in a particular sport, their goal was to create a brand with as broad an appeal as possible—a rootless, oversimplified vision that they believed could be embraced by an athlete from any background—from a bodybuilder to a rollerblader—and everyone in between. The company they created was called No Fear. No Fear’s initial success was staggering. Their graffiti-esque slogans and aggressive design patterns could be seen on the backs of NASCAR drivers, basketball players, motorcycle racers, and MMA fighters. Within a few years, middle-aged fathers could be seen wearing NO FEAR T-shirts while reeling in marlin off the Florida coast. A few years later, the No Fear logo was emblazoned on energy drink bottles due to a joint venture with Pepsi Co. Things were looking very promising for the Simo brothers. In 2011, No Fear Inc. filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy, the result of inventory overproduction and outstanding debts with several national distributors. A firm that once employed thousands now had only has 450 employees. How did No Fear go from being one of the most popular brands in America to utter oblivion? The reason for No Fear’s downfall was twofold: 1. They did not have roots firmly planted within a core group of participants which associated the No Fear brand with a specific activity. An example of such a brand would be Metal Mulisha—a motocross clothing company that, despite widespread international success, is still first and foremost recognized and patronized by fans of motocross. By having a core group embrace your brand, the brand’s authenticity is validated. 2, No Fear failed to cultivate a specific lifestyle around their brand. Since all walks of life could feel equally associated with the brand’s tag, all sense of uniqueness was annihilated, and any emotional connection extended no further than the physical product itself. This was, indeed, the Simo brothers’ intention. But, while hindsight is 20/20, time is not. 12TB0375 This document is authorized for use only by Matthew Skarbek ([email protected]). Copying or posting is an infringement of copyright. Please contact [email protected] or 800-988-0886 for additional copies. The 21st Century Brand Today, successful brands make core authentication and lifestyle cultivation their top marketing priorities. No company exemplifies this better than Volcom Inc., true pioneers in recognizing the unbridled power that the core possesses in dictating trends. The reason for this is simple: they’ve been building a lifestyle mantra around their products since the company’s inception in 1995. Volcom’s co-founder, Richard Woolcott, was keenly aware of the profound relationship between sports, music, art, and fashion, and the creative, enlightened environment that results when all elements are interwoven and pushed to new creative heights by some of the most creative minds in the world. When this occurs, an unmistakable attitude is created and, if done correctly, an attitude definitively associated with a particular brand. Volcom has been able to create such an environment, and the vehicle for this Renaissance is the production company Volcom Entertainment Company (Veeco). Woolcott has made certain to “explore new ways to evolve the company that are unique and remain at the forefront of our industry.”5 A Radical Approach to Lifestyle Marketing Unlike NO FEAR in the 1990s, Volcom has a very precise, unambiguous cultural lifestyle associated with its brand; a lifestyle best summed up in its mantra youth against establishment. Like so many powerful ideas, the key to Volcom’s mantra is the myriad interpretations the mantra conjures—from embracing individuality, fighting oppression, to simply embracing personal freedom. All of these nuances, sprinkled with conspicuous tinges of anarchy, comprise the Volcom lifestyle. And, like all explicit lifestyles, music plays a pivotal role for Volcom. In addition to continuously developing award-winning apparel lines, Volcom also manages its own in-house music production facility, recording and producing small- to medium-sized bands that embrace the aggressive, voracious ethos Volcom embodies (for examples, please visit www.volcom.com/music). As field research has shown, music and action sports co-exist in a cyclical relationship where each influences the other, ultimately creating a unique cultural body that is easily definable as Volcom’s own. A Shot from Volcom’s New Film, True To This, Showing Skaters on a Mini Ramp in the Ocean What further sets Veeco apart from other sports firms attempting to cultivate lifestyles around their products is the frequent content production of their 3S (skateboard, snowboard, and surf ) team riders engaging in decidedly un-3S activities, ranging from road trips to Mexico to late nights in dubious, unpredictable cities, which are then broadcast almost immediately over all the various social media channels. Volcom’s Road-Tested ad campaign, for example, highlights Volcom skate team riders on their various adventures while traveling between various destinations, focusing on the behind-the-scenes moments of skateboard culture in addition to the skating itself. 5 http://business.transworld.net/117659/features/steris-named-volcom-ceo-woolcott-moves-to-executive-chairman/. TB037513 This document is authorized for use only by Matthew Skarbek ([email protected]). Copying or posting is an infringement of copyright. Please contact [email protected] or 800-988-0886 for additional copies. This content, combined with the music production of Veeco, reinforces an image of Volcom, what they stand for, and their unabashed, unapologetic nature in their presentation: This alone gives them the proudly earned label of being an authentic brand. In the highly competitive ocean of action sports, establishing an explicit lifestyle that caters to a core group of consumers is the difference between sinking and swimming. Volcom skater Geoff Rowley says, “Creatively, I think until recently there was a little bit of a lull in skateboarding. Things were getting too predictable, same marketing approaches, reissue 14TB0375 This document is authorized for use only by Matthew Skarbek ([email protected]). Copying or posting is an infringement of copyright. Please contact [email protected] or 800-988-0886 for additional copies. graphics, same experience for the paying customer. I’m getting stoked on some of the younger brands and what they are bringing to the table. It’s refreshing, and I welcome that with open arms.”6 Challenges Moving Forward—The Core The core is critical because it comprises individuals who are not motivated by external factors like money, status, or recognition. Their involvement derives purely from an internal sense of accomplishment and satisfaction; fulfillment that has absolutely nothing to do with T-shirt sales or investor returns, nor with rankings within an organized action sports body. A prime example is Volcom rider Ozzie Wright, a surfer who has never been on the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) world tour. However, due to the respect he garners from within the core due to his innovation and creativity, he has remained sponsored by Volcom since his professional debut. In addition, Wright produces his own graphics for his products and his band, Goons of Doom, is signed to Volcom’s Veeco label. Volcom must keep the demands of its core consumers at the heart of their marketing and production endeavors. That said, the landscape for retail brands is getting increasingly competitive and crowded. Tiffany Montgomery points out, “Young and established action sports competitors are finding shrinking retail space in core shops along with non-endemic global brands...geographic expansion will continue to play a key role in [Volcom and Electric’s] growth strategy, with focus placed on increased service to existing distribution and expansion of retail footprint within the channels.”7 The Paradox of Expanding Globally Yet Remaining True to the Core There exists a defined paradox between being core and being global. Being global by definition means that you are selling as much product as possible for the purpose of a greater return, foregoing the soul and roots of why the company was initially founded. It becomes a for-profit business, which is antithetical to the values and beliefs the core holds dear. The irony occurs when corporations try to mass-produce attributes of the core, while the core views this as completely obliterating any sense of authenticity. Volcom has done an exceptional job in keeping their core intact, sticking to their aggressive, unapologetic roots, while most major brands focus on what has the greatest overall market appeal, the tenets of the mainstream. While their mantra remains youth against establishment, Chris Mauro of GrindTV points out, this “wasn’t about anarchy, but instead about making your own rules that effect positive change.”8 For example, Mauro refers to the fact snowboarding was still frowned on at major resort mountains throughout the 1980s, and competitive surfing was succumbing to political pressures. “At a time when snowboarders had to fight just to ride, Volcom http://theberrics.com/interrogation/geoff-rowley.html. Shop-Eat-Surf. 8 http://www.grindtv.com/lifestyle/culture/post/the-volcom-difference-with-founder-richard-woolcott/. 6 7 TB037515 This document is authorized for use only by Matthew Skarbek ([email protected]). Copying or posting is an infringement of copyright. Please contact [email protected] or 800-988-0886 for additional copies. became a force. And when the amateur surfing scene that [Volcom co-founder] Wooly participated in began to melt down under the weight of political infighting, Volcom rewrote the book on it, and gave kids even more opportunities (free entries, huge prizes, big stages) with the VQS Series that’s since gone global across sports.” Volcom has built its authenticity from the ground up, enabling a new generation to explore action sports opportunities that were not available in Volcom’s infancy. Globalization of the brand—skateboarding is now a global cultural phenomenon. Its original capital is Southern California; however, the monopoly on innovations, tricks, and fashion is gradually being shared with other countries where the sport is popular. The recent XGames in Brazil demonstrated the reach of action sports. While skaters all over the world will continue to look up to top riders in the U.S., it is natural for top foreign talent to evolve into the higher circles of the sport. The globalization of structures and process is already under way at Volcom, but the task of localizing the strategy in major markets represents a critical challenge. Authenticity Within an Empowered Generation The youth of today have the means and access to develop all types of their own creativity, from designing their own graphics, shaping their own boards, to even writing their own songs. Volcom encourages its athletes to engage in these activities, which humanizes these athletes in such a way as to make them more relatable to the average consumer, ultimately creating greater brand loyalty. Volcom has been known to have riders who some might consider are a little more unpredictable, more willing to take bigger risks, and clearly defiant of traditional mainstream conduct (prime examples are Ozzie Wright, Dustin Dollin, and Mitch Coleborn). This is no accident; with the plethora of brands and the abundant homogeneity, it is extremely difficult for a brand to stand out as innovative and original. Volcom’s Longevity There is a very fine line to walk between being a successful, profitable company and still remaining respected and embraced by the core. What does the future hold for Volcom? That is where the real challenge lies. There is a movement among companies to focus more on the core athletes within a particular action sport. For example, Quicksilver dropped Kelly Slater, 11-time world ASP championship, yet still retains Dane Reynolds, a surfer who has never won a single event and yet is idolized by a generation of surfers for his radical freethinking and cultural liberty. When asked about progression within skate culture, Geoff Rowley from Volcom says, “We’re all a product of our environment. I think there was a trend in skateboarding for a little while to master the tricks forwards, backwards, and every which way: catch them all high, catch them all the same. When you do that, you homogenize form. That gets a little too controlling and creatively confining.” In order to remain relevant, brands must focus on constantly evolving. Volcom, from its inception, has focused on challenging the industry standards of originality and creativity, putting them in optimal position for future success. Bibliography • History info: http://www.volcom.com/company/ • Screenshots from Hoovers: Volcom 2—http://subscriber.hoovers.com.ezproxy.t-bird.edu/H/company360/ people.html?companyId=138237000000000 • Interbrand info on action sports: http://www.interbrand.com/Libraries/Articles/boarding_paper_12-5-2011. sflb.ashx • Action sports revenues: http://www.therichest.com/business/the-most-successful-action-sports-companies-2/ 16TB0375 This document is authorized for use only by Matthew Skarbek ([email protected]). Copying or posting is an infringement of copyright. Please contact [email protected] or 800-988-0886 for additional copies.
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