EMULMETIK™
BIOPHILIC™
AMISOL™ SOFT
HELIOFEEL™
Phospholipidbased
emulsifiers
for skin care
Natural ingredients
Active formulas
High tolerance
Phospholipids as emulsifiers
EMULMETIK™
are natural lecithins
and phospholipids
with various
phosphatidylcholine
contents.
Used as
co-emulsifiers,
wetting agents
or active ingredients,
they improve all
types of formulation
with a unique
sensorial and natural
approach.
Polar lipids and above all phospholipids are
essential constituents of the cellular membrane
of all living organisms. Organized in bi-layers, they
form a selective and protective barrier which
regulates cell life.
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics extracts phospholipids
from various vegetable sources to provide the cosmetic industry with
natural and biocompatible emulsifying molecules to formulate O/W
and W/O emulsions.
Phospholipids (including phosphatidylcholine and others) are long
molecules designed by nature with a hydrophilic head and two lipophilic
tails. This amphiphilic character is responsible for their emulsifying
properties. When used as co-emulsifiers in combination with other
emulsifiers or molecules with high HLB, their emulsifying properties are
enhanced. Their structure gives a unique sensorial profile and a perfect
tolerance.
When used in make-up, the pigment binds to the polar group and is thus
dispersed in the oil phase, while avoiding pigment aggregation. This
property is accompanied by an interesting decrease in viscosity for
example during the pouring of lipstick.
Under specific conditions, they can also form
liposomes. Liposomes are mainly used as
delivery vectors to encapsulate both water-soluble
and oil-soluble compounds in a skin-compatible
structure, which facilitates the penetration and
helps active agents to reach selected targets.
Cross section of a liposome
with active properties
EMULMETIK™
100
220
300
320
900
930
950
DESCRIPTION
Liquid
lecithin
Hydrogenated
lecithin
Phospholipid
complex
Hydrogenated
phospholipid
complex
PC*
concentrate
PC*
isolate
Hydrogenated
PC*
isolate
ORIGIN
Soya
Sunflower
Soya
Soya
Soya
Soya
Soya
PHOSPHOLIPIDS
AND GLYCOLIPIDS
60%
60%
97%
97%
97%
97%
97%
* PHOSPHATIDYLCHOLINE
12%
15%
23%
23%
50%
95%
97%
Co-emulsifier
Co-emulsifier
Stabilizing
agent
Wetting agent
Liposome
precursor
Emulsifier
Liposome
precursor
Liposome
precursor
Thickening
agent
TECHNICAL
FUNCTION
ORGANIC STATUS
Co-emulsifier
Co-emulsifier
Consult us
PHOSPHOLIPIDS COMBINE TECHNOLOGICAL FUNCTION
AND SKIN TREATING PROPERTIES
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics © July 2008
Phospholipids also have specific biological activities. As natural
components of cell membranes, they have a high affinity to skin and
therefore penetrate skin easily. They are important source of essential
fatty acids to keep the skin supple. They form a film on the skin’s surface
which continuously releases active ingredients and reduces the TEWL
while increasing the hydration of stratum corneum.
Phospholipid-based emulsifiers
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics has optimized the emulsifying properties of phospholipids by combining them
with other natural compounds with higher HLB values.
Three generations of phospholipid-based emulsifiers have been developed - BIOPHILIC™,
AMISOL™ SOFT and HELIOFEEL™- to offer various choices of formulations with unique sensorial characteristics.
Sensory profile
Opacity
10
White (color)
Residue
8
Softness
Brightness
6
4
Tacking
Fluidity
2
0
Penetration
Piking
Greasiness
The sensory profiles of basic creams containing
4% of each emulsifier were evaluated by an
expert panel. All phospholipid-based emulsifiers
give some similar results which can be defined
as the « Phospholipid Touch » :
• Cool
• Slippery
• Non-tacky
• Soft
However, each emulsifier has its own individual
benefits and is recommended for different
applications based on the desired texture.
Slipping
BIOPHILIC H TM
AMISOL TM SOFT
Spreadability
Coolness
HELIOFEEL TM
Whitening (application)
The biological benefits from phospholipids provide active properties to those emulsifiers and allow claims
of active formulas with moisturizing, restructuring and protective properties. The formation of a film on the
surface of the skin prevents the water loss and acts as a delivery system for a long-lasting effect.
The base of the formulation is therefore also an entire active part of the formulation.
Natural and skin biocompatible
The ingredients in BIOPHILIC™, AMISOL™ SOFT and HELIOFEEL™ have been selected with particular care.
They are 100% natural raw materials and present a high affinity and biocompatibility with the skin for a
perfect safe aspect.
Cellular viability (%)
100
>100%
>100%
In vitro cytotoxicity using the MTT assay on
human normal epidermal keratinocytes.
Tested dose: 0.008%
>100%
80
-30%
60
70%
-80%
40
20
20%
0
AMISOL™ SOFT
HELIOFEEL™
Non ionic glucolipidic
emulsifier
Ethoxylated
system
Compared to other types of emulsifier systems on the market (non ionic glucolipidic and ethoxylated
systems), they are well tolerated and can be used for all kind of products, particularly for the most delicate
applications (sensitive skin products, baby care and cleansers).
BIOPHILIC™, AMISOL™ SOFT, HELIOFEEL™ :
THE EMULSIFIERS WHICH TAKE CARE OF YOUR SKIN
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics © July 2008
BIOPHILIC™ H
The phospholipid touch
BIOPHILIC™
is a natural lamellar
O/W system based
on the emulsifying
properties of
phospholipids
combined with
other vegetable
lipids.
Lamellar network
When combined with other fatty acids and fatty alcohols, the emulsifying
properties of phospholipids are improved. They first form monolayers
around oil droplets, and progressively, a bilayer network is formed in the
aqueous phase to create a lamellar O/W emulsion.
Network of
stacked sheets
Primary particles
Oil
Lamellar structure cream
with BIOPHILIC ™
Smooth matrix
The lamellar emulsion mimics the lipid
structure of the stratum corneum for a
perfect affinity. It acts as a “second skin”
and therefore helps to restore the
cutaneous barrier of damaged skin. The
emulsion melts on the skin during the
application and forms a restructuring
film which reduces TEWL.
Variation of TEWL (%)
The “Second Skin”
concept
(compared to untreated zone)
The rigid lamellar network formed with BIOPHILIC™ yields very stable
creams capable of carrying up to 40% by weight of oil: oil-drops are
stabilized in the layers of the emulsion.
It is also able to entrap active ingredients which are continuously
released as the cream penetrates the skin.
0
Before the
application
of the gel
3h after
the application
of the gel
-5
-10
-15
20
-22%
-25
Gel with 5% BIOPHILIC™ tested on the forearms
of 6 volunteers, after washing with a 10% solution
of sodium lauryl sulfate
Rich texture
BIOPHILIC™ is particularly recommended to create rich textures, since
the fatty alcohol and the palmitic acid provide consistency and
viscosity. The nourishing and emollient activity makes it suitable for all
skin types.
BIOPHILIC™ FORMS LAMELLAR O/W
EMULSIONS ABLE TO RESTORE THE SKIN BARRIER
DESCRIPTION
INCI Name
BIOPHILIC™™™ H:
BIOPHILIC™ S:
Organic status
Appearance
Formulation
Hydrogenated lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols
(and) Palmitic acid
Lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols (and) Palmitic acid
PCR negative quality Ecocert registered
Beige to light grey (H) or light yellow (S) oval pellets
Dosage
Optimum pH
Application
Hydrate for 20 minutes
above 65°C
3-6%
5-7
Lotions to butter emulsions,
sun care, make-up
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics © July 2008
The BIOPHILIC™ range contains two references with different lecithin.
The hydrogenated lecithin in BIOPHILIC™ H provides very important
thickening properties and allows to formulate white and odorless
emulsions from cream to butter.
BIOPHILIC™ S contains unsaturated lecithin, creating softer and more
fluid off-white textures from lotion to cream.
The gentle emulsifier
AMISOL™ SOFT
is an optimized
blend of
phospholipids,
phytosterols and
vegetable lipids
which forms
lamellar O/W
emulsions
for soft applications.
Lamellar network
Lamellar O/W creams and lotions
formulated with AMISOL™ SOFT are
organized in phospholipidic bilayers
with interspersed phytosterols and
fatty alcohols. The combination of
phospholipids with phytosterols
allows the formation of a stable
supple lamellar network, leading to
fluid emulsions. This biomimetic
structure is particularly suitable for
sensitive or stressed skins.
Lamellar structure cream with
AMISOL ™ SOFT
Repairing action
The natural barrier of irritated skin is disrupted by physical and chemical
damages, causing redness and dryness. AMISOL™ SOFT forms a
biomimetic lipid film on the skin’s surface to prevent damage. The
phytosterols also soothe and calm the irritated skin due to their well-known
anti-inflammatory properties.
AMISOL™ SOFT maintains the protective function of the stratum corneum.
(compared to T0)
TEWL variation (%)
17%
20
13%
15
4%
10
5%
T 2H
5
1%
0%
T 1H
0
Control
Placebo
AMISOL™ SOFT
5%
Gel with 5% AMISOL™ SOFT tested on the forearms
of 11 volunteers
The TEWL is reduced ensuring optimum hydration.
Polysensorial
AMISOL™ SOFT CREATES SOFT LAMELLAR O/W EMULSIONS
WITH PROTECTIVE AND SOOTHING EFFECTS
DESCRIPTION
INCI Name
Organic status
Appearance
Formulation
Behenyl alcohol (and) Glyceryl stearate (and)
Lecithin (and) Glycine soja (soybean) sterols
PCR negative quality Ecocert registered
Light yellow pellets
Hydrate for 20 minutes above 65°C
Dosage
Optimum pH
Application
3-6%
4-7
Lotions to creams,
sensitive skin and baby
care products, sun care,
make-up
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics © July 2008
Emulsions made with AMISOL™ SOFT have three main features. Firstly,
they give an immediate feeling of coolness. Secondly, the voluptuous
character of the emulsion provides unctuous sensation. Its shear thinning
behavior improves the spreadability properties of creams and lotions.
Finally, AMISOL™ SOFT leaves the skin velvety smooth.
The polyvalent emulsifier
HELIOFEEL™
is an easy-to-use
natural O/W
emulsifier with
sunflower
phospholipids.
It creates a wide
range of textures,
and can be used
in all formulation
types.
Made with sunflower phospholipids and two other natural emulsifying
ingredients, HELIOFEEL™ is the newest emulsifier in the Lucas Meyer
Cosmetics series. It provides a micellar O/W emulsion with a
discontinuous lamellar phase around oil droplets.
Easy-to-use
HELIOFEEL™ is very simple to use as it does not require the hydration
of the phospholipids. HELIOFEEL™ is compatible with a large variety of
oils (up to 40% at 4% of HELIOFEEL™), pigments and both physical and
chemical sunscreens.
It forms particularly stable emulsions in the presence of electrolytes
(e.g. 1% NaCl) and other destabilizing agents (organic acids, glyceryl
esters, etc.) over a wide range of pH.
Large range of textures
Polyvalent, it allows the formulation of a wide range of textures from
sprayable emulsions when used alone, to cream emulsions when
combined with a thickener. The viscosity increases with increasing
HELIOFEEL™ and oil phase contents.
According to the specific sensory profile established by an expert panel,
HELIOFEEL™ gives more fluid white emulsions with higher brightness
and a better penetration when applied. This is based on its less rigid “non
lamellar structure”.
A moisturizing action
Variation of TEWL (%)
(compared to untreated zone)
1h
2h
3h
4h
Placebo
HELIOFEEL™
-5%
-6%
-6%
-9%
Active formula: HELIOFEEL™ (4%), Phenonip™ (0.5%), water (up to 100%)
Placebo: Phenonip™ (0.5%), water (up to 100%)
Based on the film-forming properties of phospholipids, HELIOFEEL™
forms a protective barrier, which decreases TEWL and therefore helps
to keep the skin moisturized.
DESCRIPTION
INCI Name
Organic status
Appearance
Formulation
Glyceryl stearate citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 stearate
(and) Hydrogenated lecithin
Ecocert registered
Yellowish pellets
Introduce into oil phase
Dosage
Optimum pH
Application
3-6%
4-8
Sprayable to cream
emulsions, sun care,
make-up
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics © July 2008
HELIOFEEL™ PROVIDES MOISTURIZING MICELLAR
O/W EMULSIONS FROM SPRAYS TO CREAMS
ANTI-AGING CREAM 2.350.04
C
D
E
F
INCI NAME
Water
Xanthan gum
Tetrasodium EDTA
Glycerin
Butylene glycol
Behenyl alcohol (and)
Glyceryl stearate (and) Lecithin (and)
Glycine soja (soybean) sterols
DERMOFEEL™ E 74 A * Tocopheryl acetate
Nipanox BHT
BHT
Cetiol SB 45
Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter)
Phytosqualane
Squalane
Tegosoft CO
Cetyl ethylhexanoate
Eutanol G16S
Hexyldecyl stearate
Cognis IPP
Isopropyl palmitate
Lanette 16
Cetyl alcohol
Palmitic acid
Palmitic acid
Abil wax 2440
Behenoxy dimethicone
Abil 350
Dimethicone
DC 345
Cyclopentasiloxane (and)
Cyclohexasiloxane
Parsol MCX
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
HELIOGEL™
Sodium acrylates copolymer (and)
Hydrogenated polyisobutene (and)
Phospholipids (and) Polyglyceryl-10
stearate (and) Helianthus
annuus (sunflower) seed oil
Phenonip
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben
(and) Ethylparaben (and)
Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben
(and) Isobutylparaben
MAMAKU VITAL ESSENCE Water (and) Cyathea medullaris
leaf extract
HYDRAPORINE™
Betaine (and) Water (and) Glycerin
(and) Hydrogenated lecithin (and)
Honey (and) Pectin
C3810 *
Fragrance
%
57.08
0.20
0.02
2.00
3.00
4.00
0.50
0.05
2.50
5.00
3.00
3.00
2.00
0.60
0.40
0.50
0.80
3.00
5.00
0.40
0.60
2.00
4.00
INGREDIENT
A BIOPHILIC™ H
Dissolvine NA
Glycerin
Opacifier 680
Deionised water
Phenonip
B Myritol 318
Cetiol SB 45
DC 200.5 CS
Stearic acid
DC 2501
Lanette 16
Cognis IPP
C DC 345
D Natrosol 250M
pharm 3% gel
E ISOFLAVONES™ 150
Deionised water
DERMOFEEL™ E 74 A*
F PRO-LIPO™ H
G Retinyl palmitate
H Sodium hydroxide
solution 10%
I C3810*
J FDC red 4
0.35
* Distributed by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics in France.
Fragrance
CI 14700
0.20
5.00
2.00
40.72
0.60
7.00
1.00
2.00
1.50
2.00
0.60
4.00
1.50
10.00
1.60
10.00
0.25
5.00
0.03
up to
pH 6
1.00
up to
color
pH: 6.0 - 6.5 — Viscosity (Rheo ELV-8, spindle 4, 3 mn, 6 rpm) : 45 000 - 50 000 mPa.s
INGREDIENT
A Deionised water
DERMOFEEL™ PA-3*
Glycerin
Satiaxane CX 91
B HELIOFEEL™
RESHAPING BODY LOTION 8.023.01 C69 ECO
INCI NAME
Water
Sodium phytate (and) Water
Lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols (and)
Palmitic acid
DERMOSOFT ™ 700 B* Fragrance
DERMOSOFT ™ 688 ECO* Fragrance
Glycerin
Glycerin
Satiaxane CX 91
Xanthan gum
B Shea butter
Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter)
DERMOFEEL™ GSC*
Glyceryl stearate citrate
DERMOFEEL™ TOCO 70 Tocopherol
NON GMO*
DERMOFEEL™ MCT*
Tricaprylin
Squalane
Squalane
Sweet almond oil
Prunus amygdalus dulcis
(sweet almond) oil
C SCULPTESSENCE™
Water (and) Glycerin (and)
Linum usitatissimum (linseed)
seed extract
MAMAKU VITAL ESSENCE Water (and) Glycerin (and)
NATURE PF
Cyathea medullaris leaf extract
D EXOTISME 2021/2*
Fragrance
Glycine soja (soybean) germ extract
Water
Tocopheryl actetate
Water (and) Alcohol (and) Glycerin
(and) Phospholipids
Retinyl palmitate
Water (and) Sodium hydroxide
%
4.00
SLIMMING BODY SPRAY 7. 352. 03 C64
pH: 5.2 - 5.7 — Viscosity (Rheo ELV-8, spindle 4, 3 mn, 6 rpm) : 50 000 - 60 000 mPa.s
INGREDIENT
A Deionised water
DERMOFEEL™ PA-3*
BIOPHILIC™ S
INCI NAME
Hydrogenated lecithin (and)
C12-16 alcohols (and) Palmitic acid
Tetrasodium EDTA
Glycerin
Sodium styrene/acrylates copolymer
Water
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben
(and) Ethylparaben (and)
Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben
(and) Isobutylparaben
Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter)
Dimethicone
Stearic acid
Bis PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane
Cetyl alcohol
Isopropyl palmitate
Cyclopentasiloxane (and)
Cyclohexasiloxane
Water (and) Hydroxyethylcellulose
%
68.90
0.10
4.00
0.70
0.20
3.00
0.50
4.00
1.00
0.30
C
4.00
2.00
4.00
D
5.00
2.00
0.30
pH: 5.0 - 5.5 — Viscosity (Rheo ELV-8, spindle 4, 3 mn, 6 rpm) : 20 000 - 30 000 mPa.s
E
F
INCI NAME
%
Water
52.60
Sodium phytate (and) Water
0.10
Glycerin
3.00
Xanthan gum
0.30
Glyceryl stearate citrate (and)
4.00
Polyglyceryl-3 stearate (and)
Hydrogenated lecithin
DC 200.10 CS
Dimethicone
1.50
DC 345
Cyclopentasiloxane (and)
1.00
Cyclohexasiloxane
DC 1501
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethiconol 2.50
DERMOFEEL™ BGC*
Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate 2.00
DERMOFEEL™ TOCO 70 Tocopherol
0.20
NON GMO*
Phenonip
Phenoxyethanol (and)
0.70
Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and)
Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and)
Isobutylparaben
Deionised water
Water
20.00
ADIPOREGULINE™
Caffeine (and) Sodium salicylate
6.50
(and) Lysolecithin (and)
Hydrogenated lecithin (and)
Aspartame (and) Glycine soja (soybean)
germ extract (and) Silica (and)
Coleus forskohlii root extract
HYDRAPORINE™
Betaine (and) Water (and) Glycerin
3.00
(and) Hydrogenated lecithin (and)
Honey (and) Pectin
MAMAKU VITAL ESSENCE Water (and) Cyathea medullaris
2.00
leaf extract
EXOTISME 2021/2*
Fragrance
0.30
FDC blue 1 0.1%
Water (and) CI 19140
0.30
pH: 5.0 - 5.5 — Viscosity (Rheo ELV-8, spindle 4, 3 mn, 6 rpm) : 20 000 - 30 000 mPa.s
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics © July 2008
INGREDIENT
A Deionised water
Satiaxane CX 91
Dissolvine NA
Glycerin
Butylene glycol
B AMISOL™ SOFT
SMOOTHING ANTI-AGING CREAM 0.161.01
Face and body care
sun care, make-up
Face and body care
make-up, sun care
Body and face care
PCR negative quality
registered
Face care,
make-up, sun care
PCR negative quality
registered
Main applications
Ecocert
status
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics - ZA Les Belles Fontaines - 99 Route de Versailles - 91160 Champlan - France
Tel.: (33) 1 69 10 69 69 - Fax: (33) 1 69 10 69 70 - www.lmcosmetics.fr
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics © July 2008
PCR negative quality
registered
Registered
2-4%
1-2%
+ co-emulsifier
1-2%
+ co-emulsifier
1-2%
+ co-emulsifier
Spray dose
4-6%
3-4%
4-6%
1-2%
+ co-emulsifier
Lotion dose
4-6%
+ thickener
4-6%
4-6%
+ thickener
4-6%
Cream dose
+
++
+++
+++
Richness on
application
+++
+
++
++++
Viscosity
4-8
4-7
5-7
5-7
pH
No
Yes
Yes
Yes
Lamellar network
Yes
No
Yes
Yes
Hydration phase
HELIOFEEL™
AMISOL™ SOFT
BIOPHILIC™ S
BIOPHILIC™ H
SUMMARY
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