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You Are What’s On Your Feet:
Men and the Sneaker Subculture
Caroline Cunningham
Keywords: menswear / sneakers / collectibles
Abstract
Men’s sneakers have evolved from being purely functional to having a cult-like following
where sneakers reign superior. The sub-culture that sneaker fanatics have unknowingly
created is a noteworthy explosion in the menswear fashion industry. The small niche of
individuals that make up the sub-culture are highly regarded by sneaker companies
because of their knowledge of what’s hip. For this style tribe, sneakers are an addiction
where rarity and limited editions bring status and small celebrity within. Don’t be fooled:
these sneakers aren’t found at your mall’s Footlocker, but rather in unmarked buildings in
urban cities found by word of mouth. The intention of this paper is to explore the
phenomenon of an unlikely male fashion trend turned into hypnotic obsession that, unlike
many other male fashion trends, has pervaded all lines of race and economic class.
The Sneakers That Changed Everything
Sneakers have always been a popular form of footwear since the industrial revolution
when rubber was readily available and sneaker production was cheap and efficiently
produced by the masses. One particular sneaker that has transcended all others in
widespread popularity is the Converse. Converse revolutionized the definition of sneaker
popularity and, despite the fact that it is still being worn today, remains a nostalgic part of
the United States’ past. As the first sneaker with a celebrity endorsement (by basketball
professional Chuck Taylor in 1935), it was also the first official sneaker of the United
States basketball team in the 1936 Olympics. As a result of these two events, Converse
became synonymous with basketball. Converse and basketball went hand in hand and the
“All Star” was the standard for all high school, collegial and Professional basketball
teams. Subsequently, the Converse Company started to produce the “All-Star” in colors
other than black (the only color offered pre-WWII) in order to match team uniforms and
introduced new colors to the classic collection. Hollywood actors popularized the sneaker
even more when James Dean was photographed wearing white Converse, blue jeans, and
a white t-shirt. The famous attire became the symbol of rebellion and youth for teenagers
at the time. After these crucial events, the sneakers became ubiquitous. Although the line
became blurred in the 1970’s between an athletic and casual shoe, the classic Converse
has become a cultural icon that is still worn today in distinctive and personal ways.
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When exploring sneaker history, another popular shoe, the German born Adidas sneaker
by the Dassler Brothers, cannot be overlooked. Adidas exploded on the American hiphop scene and has made its mark in the sneaker hall of fame. Although the brand already
had strong ties with U.K. youth in the 1970s, it was one particular economic crisis going
on in a city an ocean away that made the now highly recognizable 3-stripe sneaker so
popular here in the United States. Neal Heard explains in his book Sneakers:
During the 1970’s New York City went bankrupt and all civil amenities
and social services were cut to the bone. Street gangs marked walls in
local neighborhoods to claim their territory, then individuals began
spraying their names on the subways, making the writing masters All City.
(20)
The economic times resulted in a new form of music. “DJ Kool Herc developed a
technique in the mid-1970s of looping the drum break of a James Brown record, or other
selections, to create a super hot, new percussive sound.” (Heard 21) In short, Hip-Hop
was born. Respected MC’s of the time were seen wearing Adidas and the younger
audience entering the scene dressed for the dance floor wearing Adidas.
The famous Hip-Hop group RUN DMC’s admiration of Adidas made the black and white
rubber sneaker skyrocket. Their love of music and this sneaker became a hit single
known as My Adidas. “DMC found a voice that spoke for a whole generation.” (Heard
25) This “voice” made the sneakers so popular that Adidas agreed to sponsor the group.
As a result, “the following year Adidas’s U.S. profits were boosted by some $35 million”
(Heard 25). Heard points out that “DMC had both a substantial and long-lasting effect on
youth culture, but almost more importantly it was DMC that made the corporate brands
aware of the sheer scope of the affection urban youth had for their trainers” (24). Run
DMC became the first group of individuals outside of professional athletes to be
sponsored by Adidas (Heard 24). The collaboration between fashion, sneakers and inner
city culture that took place with Adidas and Run DMC is the most famous and provoking
to this day. Adidas is crucial in sneaker history not only because of the merge of popular
music and shoes but also in that it awakened the big sneaker companies. These
companies realized that what is popular is what the youth are wearing, and that this was
their new target customer. Of course, company investors were hesitant but as can be seen
with the statistics, the decision to tap into youth street culture paid off tremendously.
After the introduction of sneakers as new performance technology for athletes, sneakers
started being endorsed by celebrities like Michael Jordon resulting in the design of
limited edition sneakers. This was a crucial turning point for the industry as sneakers
became ‘special’ and the resultant subculture thrived off this concept. The idea of a
limited edition is now something avid sneakers crave. Limited edition “Air Dunks” by
Nike are currently some of the most sought out vintage sneakers for the sneaker tribe.
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These changes are crucial aspects of both what the sneaker sub-culture has evolved from
and what it strives for when collecting. Even without including this small niche, sneakers
are by far the most popular form of footwear around. There are dozens of sneaker retail
chains that carry affordable, stylish, and readily available sneakers. For the avid sneaker
collectors (“sneakheards”), these types of sneakers are too common and too average.
These individuals desire more, and this “more” is often the result of an unexplainable
obsession. Shoe experts point to “a mix of popular culture, nostalgia, technology and
disposable income as drivers for the increased fascination with sneakers” (Skidmore).
A New York Thing
Los Angeles, like many other places, has always been known for its fashion. But New
York is where sneaker freaks find their haven. Sneaker culture derived from social and
economic hardships that took place in the later part of the 20th century New York City.
Robert Garcia devoted a whole book on New York City’s 1960-1987 sneaker culture. He
writes:
There was a worldwide mass culture of sneaker consumption, but only in
New York, the global Mecca of playground basketball and hip hop, was
there the subculture of sneaker fiends and connoisseurs. This group would
wind up influencing the sneaker industry, the music industry, the fashion
world, the vintage market, and the global consumer market for years after
right through to the present day. (14)
The roots of the U.S. sneaker culture come from New York. The city is part of its
heritage and it has always had a fascination with sneakers. This is why it’s believed that
there will never be another place with such a prominent sneaker culture and why,
according to Udi Avshalomov who worked for his parents in Broadway Sneakers in the
late 1980’s, “L.A. is never going to understand the New York sneaker game” (Martin).
And maybe this belief is true, because sneaker addicts do thrive in New York. All major
sneaker releases occur in New York, it has the most specialty stores, and every sneaker
freak interviewed by Sneaker-Nation is from New York City. With such deep roots, it’s
hard to imagine anywhere else where this sneaker phenomenon could take place on such
a scale. It is where sneaker freaks have found their Mecca.
How Long Would You Wait?
Would you wait outside for three days in order to be first for a sneaker release? Some
might call it insane, but “sneakerheads” call it dedication. In the sneaker world, it is
certainly not unheard of to wait all night to be able to own a limited edition pair of
“kicks.” Often, not just one pair is bought but two or possibly three: one to scuff up by
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wearing out a few times and an additional pair that remains in the box, untouched. These
untouched sneakers are known as “deadstock.” They are the most valuable to sneaker
enthusiasts because of their mint condition. So what has average men thinking that a
couple of sneakers are not enough? The same drive that pushes stamp collectors to travel
for stamps and baseball card collectors to annual trading shows. It’s being able to have
bragging rights and status within the culture and to be able to possess an item that no one
else has. Desirable sneakers include deadstock vintage sneakers, especially limited first
edition Air Jordon’s. Other coveted sneakers include Bathing Apes by designer Nigo. His
sneakers are flashy, expensive and over the top. Since his patent leather logo colors are
constantly changing, there is always another need for collectors to buy more. Big
companies can always find a reason to produce another desirable sneaker, especially if
there is an anniversary. Recently, Adidas put out a line of sneakers to honor icons such as
Muhammad Ali and they contract respected underground artists to design the sneaker
print. Whether big companies or small sneaker designers, there are dozens of ways to
keep the sneaker-obsessed on the edge of their chair, especially by leaking word of when
new sneakers will hit the scene.
Sneaker Freak
Each month on the “original sneaker website” Sneaker-Nation, a “sneaker freak” is
interviewed. The standard questions include naming their best sneaker purchase memory,
their top sneaker of all time and, most importantly, why sneakers are such a priority.
After going through dozens of these interviews, it is found that the answer for the latter is
the same across the board. These collectors grew up at a time when all sneakers were the
same and now that they are so unique they have become an expression of who you are especially if it is not otherwise shown through sharp looking apparel. They assert identity
in a world where everything can seem the same. " ‘You can tell so much about a person
by what they have on their feet,’ said Andre Speed, 36, at a Portland specialty sneaker
store called Lifted. ‘You might not have the freshest outfit but if you have the kicks, you
are going to get the respect.’" (Skidmore) For sneaker freaks, the sneakers make an
impression to others. All the interviewees agree on the same experience: there is no other
feeling like the feeling when you’re walking down the street and everyone is looking at
your sneakers.
From research gathered, most “sneakerhead” collections start during high school and
continue into adulthood, with some collections ranging over 500 pairs. The expensive
collection is never kept in one place, rather it is stored in numerous different places such
as at the homes of family or friends or, more commonly, in highly secured vaults. Like
any other type of collection, each worthy piece has a story behind it; where it is from,
how it was obtained. It is a marking of a particular point of the past, ultimately creating
memories. Some obtained sneakers are worth so much that, if sold, they could provide
the collector with a car down payment or the ability to live rent-free for months. What
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makes this obsessive collecting so unique among other fashion trends is that it does not
have reservations about who can participate. In other words, as noted in Andre Speeds’
statement on respect, it doesn’t matter what you look like or where you come from - you
are what is on your feet. Any avid collector invests a large amount of money in his
collection. For most of these collectors, any money left over after bills is put towards the
next pair of sneakers. When asked why the obsession, most don’t have a specific answer.
This might baffle some of us but it is a good enough answer for the sneaker designers
who have men waiting in line all night to get their hands on the newest limited edition
sneaker.
Conclusion
Although there is no definite answer for why the sneaker collector becomes so enthralled
with sneakers, there are numerous factors that can certainty give understanding to the
phenomenon that has swept men’s fashion. The hypnotic obsession has most certainty
been a result of sneakers throughout history, including the strong emotional ties it has
with the United States as well as with the hip-hip culture. It is part of New York City and
the legends that it has inspired. On a smaller scale, but equally important, sneaker
collectors have a true passion that cannot go unacknowledged. The shoes are an
expression of who you are and, in world where everything is the same, a way to express
yourself. Sneaker design history has had a direct effect on the sneaker subculture and it
undoubtedly has had an effect the sneaker industry’s revenue within the past decade. It
has inspired artists, fashion designers, and musicians alike with collaboration ideas. This
small group of like-minded, head-over-heels individuals has been an extremely large
driving force behind the sneaker industry we see today.
Works Cited
Garcia, Bobbito. Where'd You Get those? : New York City's Sneaker Culture, 1960-1987.
New York, N.Y.: Testify Books, 2003.
Heard, Neal. Sneakers. London: Carlton, 2003.
Martin, Richard a. "The Rebirth of the New York Sneakerhead." New York Times Jul 11
2004: 14.4. Proquest. Drexel University Libraries, Philadelphia. November 12, 2008
<http://proquest.umi.com>.
Milk, and Liz Farrelly. The Sneaker Book. London: Booth-Clibborn Editions, 2000.
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Riello, Giorgio, and Peter McNeil. "Footprints of History." History Today 57.3 (2007):
30. Proquest. Drexel University Libraries, Philadelphia. July 31, 2007
<http://proquest.umi.com>.
Saltz, Ina. "Step Out: The Fetishization of Sneakers." Step Inside Design 21.6 (2005): 14.
Proquest. Drexel University Libraries, Philadelphia. July 31, 2007
<http://proquest.umi.com>.
Skidmore, Sarah , Associated Press. "Sneakerheads Love to show Off Footwear."
Associated Press Online January 15 2007 LexisNexis Academic. Drexel University
Libraries, Philadelphia. November 12, 2008.