A WALK IN THE PARK A WALK IN THE PARK A guide to the flora and fauna of Edinburgh Park and its surroundings By Elspeth M Wills This book is dedicated to everyone who enjoys wildlife watching in Edinburgh Park. ISBN 978 1 85191 032 8 © New Edinburgh Ltd, 2007 Second edition published by: New Edinburgh Ltd, 2007 Cover and inside photos by: Andrew Howe Ann Steer Ian White Associates Rodger Whiteway Anna Yu Illustrations with kind permission from: Harper Collins Publishers (UK) Ltd Design and layout by: The Graphics Company Printed by: Arc Colourprint Contents Exploring Edinburgh Park 1 An ever changing landscape 3 Planting the seeds 5 Who lives in Edinburgh Park 8 Life on the water 10 Life on land 18 A year in the Park 22 A walk on the wild side 24 Look out for 27 The art of nature 31 Finding out more 33 What to look for in and around Edinburgh Park 35 Twenty years in the Park It is twenty years since Ian White prepared the designs for the landscape of Edinburgh Park, with the first planting taking place in 1989. Over the last two decades trees have grown and plants have matured, giving food and shelter to an increasingly rich and diverse variety of life. The Park has changed in other ways as art enhances nature. Twelve of the fifteen sculptures in the Park celebrate 20th century Scottish poets. This creative theme continues through a changing poetry programme in our bus shelters, while stained glass casts its light within the railway station. One thing that has not changed is our commitment to provide a stimulating and beautiful place for the people working in and visiting Edinburgh Park. This book is now in its second edition, a clear indication of the interest and pleasure the Park has given people over the years. We hope many more will enjoy a walk in the Park. Ian Wall New Edinburgh Ltd May, 2007 Exploring Edinburgh Park You are one of over 7000 people working in Edinburgh Park. There are millions more workers carrying out their daily tasks alongside you – the procession of ants on a foraging trip, the bees which carry pollen from flower to flower, the worms which eat their way through the soil and the countless numbers of bugs and bacteria without which the lochans would not be home to swans and moorhen. A Walk in the Park sets out to tell you a little of the lifestyle of some of the residents of Edinburgh Park, what they do for a living and why they have chosen to settle where they have. Most people will have admired the swans as they glide gracefully along or have been amused at the antics of the bald headed coots.Why do the swans hiss when you come too close? What is the bird swimming alongside with the bright green legs? The guide is designed to help you to explore Edinburgh Park and its surroundings. It tells you something of what you may see, season by season, and suggests a country walk. It describes some of the other forms of life with which you share your working environment, both those planted here as part of the Park’s landscape and those which have arrived here independently and decided to stay. You do not need to be a wildlife expert or even an enthusiast to enjoy a walk in the Park. Simply keep your eyes and ears open and follow your curiosity. It is surprising what you will find. 1 A WALK IN THE PARK An ever changing landscape Volcanoes and ice sheets Edinburgh Park looks south towards the Pentland Hills whose oldest rocks were laid down under the sea 430 million years ago. The collision of two continents triggered volcanoes around Swanston and Colinton whose ash and lava created rocks 1500 metres thick. The distinctive shape of the Pentlands also owes much to the scouring by the retreating ice sheets as the climate became warmer ten thousand years ago. At one time, trees reached close to the summits, including the oak, hazel, birch and rowan whose distant descendants grow in and around the Park today. The rowan or mountain ash is Scotland’s highest growing tree Farmland and parkland Edinburgh Park has been shaped by the individuals who have lived and worked here for many centuries. As long ago as 3000 BC people walked along a stone causeway, close to Park centre, to fish in the loch, which once covered the area. Gyle simply means an eddy or swirl of water. Human activity has profoundly influenced virtually all the landscape which we think of as countryside today. The tree-clad slopes of the Pentlands have been made bare by the felling of timber to build ships and rafters, and by the grazing of generations of sheep and rabbits. In the 18th and 19th centuries, trees were planted round the farms and fields to provide shelter from prevailing winds. AN EVER CHANGING LANDSCAPE Edinburgh Park stands on the site of Redheughs Farm whose name was first recorded about 1400 AD. Redheughs recalls the rising land or heugh on which the steading was built and the reddish tint of the surrounding soil. It must have been a substantial property: “The more notable houses and castles lying on this burn … are Dalmahoy Castle, Warriston, Hermiston House with a castle of the same name, and Redheughs.” (Blaeu Atlas of Scotland, 1654). We know the names of some of the fields from a survey of the farm in 1852, including the Gullions or boggy gully and Muir Park, the moorland rough pastures. The boundaries of the parishes of Corstorphine, Currie and Ratho once met at Redheughs. More recently, like most land on the outskirts of cities, Redheughs was intensively farmed, growing grain and winter feed for animals. Part of Edinburgh Park was once a piggery. Commuter belt for the wealthy In the early 19th century wealthy Edinburgh families commuted from or retired to the area to the west of the Park. They liked to imagine they were living in the wilds of the countryside and so surrounded their country houses with parkland to provide an appropriately romantic setting. Yet the planting of every tree and lawn in this ‘natural landscape’ was carefully planned by a gardener. Both in concept and execution Edinburgh Park is little different from these country house parklands although the gardeners are now architects and the laird, your employer. A WALK IN THE PARK Planting the seeds Ross, Craig and Gordon The central feature of Edinburgh Park is a series of three lochans which not only open up superb vistas towards the Pentlands but give the effect of a canal, a popular feature of 18th century country house landscapes. They follow the route of the Gogar Burn, which takes its name from the British word, cocra, meaning a crooked stream. The burn lives up to its name in the spectacular twists and turns it makes on its way from the side of Corston Hill south of Livingston to join the Almond near Edinburgh Airport. Walking south from the entrance to the Park, Loch Gordon is the newest lochan, named after the Park’s first manager. The second is Loch Craig, named after James Craig, the architect of Edinburgh’s first New Town. The third is called Loch Ross, to commemorate Bill Ross, who shared Craig’s energy and inspiration in creating a new community, Edinburgh Park, within the city. Sadly he died before his vision was fully realised. He is remembered by a bronze plaque set in a small sculptured area of stone beside the water’s edge. PLANTING THE SEEDS The Yellow Flag of Scotland. Rhubarb and ostrich plumes A focal point of the planted areas of Edinburgh Park is beside the lochans where reeds give way to flowers, shrubs and small trees. Water lilies float on the surface of the lochans and water weeds provide food for the ducks. Some plants such as reed sweet-grass and yellow flag are hardy native Scots while others originated in the wilds of Nepal, Tibet or Brazil. Here are a few of the more unusual plants which you will find in the Park. Growing beside the water the Brazilian Giant Rhubarb has the largest leaves of any hardy plant in the UK. In April, its leaves unfurl like a giant umbrella. The ten inch high clusters of white starry flowers on a bed of dark green, heart shaped leaves make the Foam Plant look like handfuls of soapsuds. Each Spring the Ostrich Plumed Fern puts out its fronds from a short thick ‘trunk’ to form a pale green shuttlecock. At the end of Summer as the fronds die back, they darken until they resemble the colour and texture of suede. It is these fronds, looking like the decoration on the hats of Edwardian ladies, which earned the plant its name. The leaves of the Bergenia cordifolia give the plant its nickname, Elephant’s Ears. The slow spreading, paddle shaped leaves are true evergreens unlike most herbaceous plants. Between the Park and Gyle Shopping Centre you will find some favourites. Roses, pansies, honeysuckle and lavender add colour and scent on a summer afternoon. In Autumn the creepers add their vivid hues and the berries ripen on the bramble and the snowberry bushes. A WALK IN THE PARK Who lives in Edinburgh Park A lively community Edinburgh Park is a giant snack bar for many forms of life. Each member of the Park’s community is an essential link in the food chain. Using the energy which they trap from sunlight, green plants – from water weed to chestnut trees – build up foods such as proteins, carbohydrates and sugars from simple raw materials, mainly carbon dioxide from the air and water and minerals from the soil. As well as being a source of food for animals, birds and insects, plants breathe out oxygen essential to the survival of most other forms of life. Organisms living in the soil, from bacteria to worms, help to break down dead material – everything from fallen leaves to rabbit droppings – and in the process put into the soil the minerals which plants need to manufacture their food. And so, life goes on. The lucky ladybird, the enemy of garden pests. A WALK IN THE PARK Who is moving in? The Park teems with life much of it so small that it remains invisible to the eye. What you may see depends on the time of day, the season and the weather. Some animals and birds are very wary of humans or are active largely at night. The presence of some animals and birds may be evident only by their droppings; their footprints on snowy days; the sound they make or by what they leave behind from eggshells to feathers. While the Park’s staff ensure that some of the inevitable but less desirable residents such as mice and rats are ‘moved on’, there are other residents whose whereabouts are as yet unknown. Are there shrews, voles, bats or badgers in the Park or nearby? Has anyone seen a grey squirrel yet, a likely incomer as soon as the trees mature? Heart’s Ease WHO LIVES IN EDINBURGH PARK Life on the water The lochans There is a lot more to life on the lochans than the swans, top of the pecking order – sometimes literally – and the ducks paddling by. The ducks feed largely on the water weeds rooted to the bottom of the lochans or floating on the surface, which provide the essential oxygen of life. The weeds provide a snack for tadpoles which themselves are a meal for the stickleback and other small Of the 72 pairs of breeding fish whose darting movements in turn are swans in Lothian, 42 hatched carefully tracked by the visiting heron. cygnets in 2005, although Life on the lochans nearly did not happen. seven whole broods were lost. When the Park was first planned, it was The swans produced a total hoped to use the water from the Gogar of 182 cygnets. A further 27 Burn to support the pond life of the lochans. pairs staked out a territory but did not breed. Unfortunately the water contains a lot of nitrates from the fertilisers carried by Lothian Mute Swan Census, 2005 water running off farmland into the Burn. The first thing to grow on the lochans was algae, which thrive on these chemicals. Algae float on the surface of water as a greenish scum and block out the light. Little else can survive, especially in the stiller waters of the lochans. Until the problem of nitrate levels in the Gogar Burn is resolved, it has to be diverted in a culvert through the Park and the lochans are supplied by constantly recirculating tap water. Swanning around Swans have made the headlines at Edinburgh Park for over a decade. Most years a couple has nested on the banks of the lochans, rearing anything from two to six cygnets. 10 A WALK IN THE PARK Although couples stay together, they sometimes move on to a new nest site. Parenthood has not always been straightforward. In 1995 an inexperienced couple threw three of their five eggs out of the nest. The other two eggs disappeared overnight, probably stolen by a fox. In 2001 a family of swans had to be evacuated after a cob was killed in a turf war with a rival. The cob was nicknamed Narcissus as he liked to admire his handsome profile in the water. He was teaching his six offspring to swim when he was attacked. The female swan and her cygnets were set free at Cramond. The idea that swans sing when they are dying is the stuff of myth and legend. In 2003 a second pair of breeding swans arrived on the lochans. Shortly after the eggs hatched, one pair were seen on the Union Canal at Wester Hailes. Remarkably all the young survived the hazardous journey. Noone knows how they made the move. The resident pair at Wester Hailes later adopted one of the cygnets. Although swans usually mate for life, one of the Edinburgh Park swans, HHS turned out to be a bigamist. He nested on two lochs with different females. His harem, however, produced no cygnets. Take a note of the number FIT, CYY, HFD – these are just some of the initials on the rings of breeding couples in the Park. Since 1978 the Lothian and Fife Swan Study Group has tracked the movement of swans in the region by ringing the young cygnets – a simple and painless task, at least for the birds. LIFE ON THE WATER 11 About a hundred pairs of swans hold a territory in the Lothians each year of which just under three quarters breed. Over half of the breeding pairs successfully fledge at least one cygnet. In recent years couples on Loch Ross and Loch Craig in the Park have successfully fledged 24 young. Ringing leads to some fascinating discoveries. From this annual exercise it is known that one of the swans who moved to Edinburgh Park graduated from Heriot-Watt University while another pampered youngster grew up at Dalmahoy Country Club. After leaving home teenagers congregate on St Margaret’s Loch below Arthur’s Seat and on Linlithgow Loch: some travel as far as Loch Leven in Fife. Swan song Although their name suggests that mute swans are silent, this is not strictly true. They occasionally make an explosive squawk and hiss loudly in defence especially during the breeding season.You may first be alerted to a swan’s arrival by the throb of its wing beats as it skids towards a landing. Although a blow from a swan’s powerful wing can break limbs, swans will only resort to attack if under considerable threat. Take the swan’s hiss as a warning and move a few feet away: should it still look threatening, wave a bag or newspaper and shout loudly to distract it. Unlike other breeds of swan which hold their necks erect while swimming, the mute swan keeps its neck in a S shape, with its head pointing downwards and its wings often raised 12 A WALK IN THE PARK like shields. The swans mainly eat the plants growing in the water and on the edges of the banks but also sometimes graze on the grass. It takes a lot of eating – about 4kg a day – to provide the energy for Britain’s largest and heaviest water bird. Shortly after nest building in early Spring, the female swan lays a clutch of 5-7 eggs at two day intervals. Each egg is about twice the length of a hen’s egg and seven times as heavy.Varying in colour from pale grey/blue to greenish, the eggs become shiny as incubation progresses. The female only leaves the nest once a day to feed, spending the rest of the time either asleep with her bill tucked into her back feathers or arranging material within reach of the nest. The cob stands by on guard duty. The male swan, with his distinctive bulge at the base of his beak, is called a cob because he is a ‘great bird’. His partner is known as a pen. Your ball-point or felttip traces back to the flight feathers of the pen which centuries ago were used as a writing tool. There once was an ugly duckling The young hatch around 35 days after the eggs are laid, the first to hatch coming from the last egg to be laid. A day and a half after the last egg is hatched, the brood is led to the water by the parents. Although they sometimes return to the nest at night, the chicks spend much of their time piggybacking between the folded wings of their parent. The parents teach them how to feed by picking up weed and then watching the youngsters have a go. After twenty weeks the brown feathered cygnets try out their wings for the first time. As the nights grow colder, the cygnets shed their drab brown feathers and emerge as graceful white swans.They join a winter colony of young swans, perhaps at Cramond, Linlithgow, Musselburgh or even further afield. The parent swans also leave for their winter feeding grounds. LIFE ON THE WATER 13 As bald as a coot While the swans tend to feed on the deep side of the lochans, the smaller water birds keep more to the shallows by the reed beds.You cannot mistake the coot because he is as bald as the proverb. These black rotund Coots and moorhen are water fowl are marked with a distinctive white classed as rails not ducks forehead.You can tell male and female apart because they do not have by their different cries: the male makes a sharp webbed feet or flattened bills. barking noise while the female can sound like the pop of a champagne cork. They swim high in the water constantly jerking their heads up and down and patter across the lochan for some distance before taking off. Coots like the slow flowing water and dense vegetation of the lochans. They make their nests in the reed beds, often suspending them over shallow water. Parents take it in turn to sit on the nest of brown spotted eggs until the chicks hatch three weeks later. Each year, there are two or three broods of young. Coots are not fussy feeders eating plants, insects, worms and refuse. If there is a skirmish on the water, you can be fairly sure that the aggressive coots are in the thick of it. Paddling for a living As chicks, moorhen, a close relative of the coot, are also bald on top. These tiny round, black balls of down have yellow tips to their beaks surmounted by a patch of deep crimson. Once they are older, their first coat is brownish and their beaks turn an olive green before they revert as adults to a black glossy body, a yellow beak tip and a crimson face. The moorhen paddles through the water with its bright green legs and long toes. Coots build rafts for their young with a ramp to help them to climb out of the water. 14 A WALK IN THE PARK Watch a moorhen bobbing in the water and you will see why it is likened to a small hen. It constantly nods its head and jerks its tail, flashing its snowy white underside. Its alarm call is a throaty crake turning to a sharp cry when threatened. Moorhens nest in the thick vegetation by the side of the lochans, producing one or two broods of chicks each year. They rely not only on the plants, insects and tadpoles of the lochans for food but may also feed in nearby fields. Quack quack The duck that people know best is the mallard, the ancestor of most domestic ducks. The drake with his bottle green head, yellow bill and glossy chestnut front is splendidly attired to attract his rather dowdy brown companion with her speckled brown feathers and blue and white flash at the wing tips. When not in breeding plumage, the drake returns to a colouring not dissimilar to the females. The nest sites of the mallards, close to the water’s edge, are difficult to spot as they are well camouflaged. Ducks often hide their white eggs from potential thieves by covering them with nest materials. The chicks, however, are unmistakable. The brown and yellow balls of down have brown heads and yellow faces broken by a brown stripe across their eyes.You will see the mother duck with her chicks waddling behind her on the tree-lined path by the lochans. The chicks are often adventurous and can occasionally end up as a tasty meal for a crow or gull. LIFE ON THE WATER 15 The tufted duck is distinguished by his elegant drooping headgear and glossy black and white plumage. His mate is a much plainer brown. Tufted ducks dive to the bottom in search of snails, insects and the seeds of water weeds. In the Spring, they nest close to the water’s edge but well hidden from passing view. Dragon Fly Soldiers and damsels Like ducks, insects, from midges to soldier flies, are attracted to water. One of the most common are the back swimmers and water boatman. As their name suggests, they swim on their backs using their long back legs as oars. Light rather than gravity makes them swim upside down. Put back swimmers in a tank lit only from below and they swim the right way up. The water boatman is one of They need to come up to the surface Britain’s fiercest bugs, nipping tiny often to replenish the air bubbles which insects and fish with its claws. they carry down with them to the bottom like tiny divers with oxygen cylinders. Common blue damsel flies occasionally flit across the water. They are like slender dragonflies but rest with their wings tucked by their sides rather than outspread. Each wing can move independently in flight allowing the damsel fly to travel backwards or to hover. Its eyes placed at the sides are made up of thousands of facets and with its rotating head give it all round vision. Extremely sensitive to the slightest movement, the damsel fly can catch small insects in mid flight. Common Blue Damsel Fly Chilly Scotland is at the Northern edge of the damsel fly’s territory with only five resident species. 16 A WALK IN THE PARK Fish out of water The grey heron which visits the Park has an eye only for one thing – the fish in the lochans. With strong slow wing beats, he flies in and settles on his long stork like legs to wait patiently for the ripple on the water which betrays his next meal. Although fish is their natural diet, the gulls which pursue the diggers and tractors and join the ducks on the water, are more interested in what the earth turns up or household scraps. With the widespread use of black bin bags, Edinburgh’s population of gulls increased dramatically: the newer wheelie bins mean that they are hungrier. The gulls you are most likely to see in the Park are the black headed gull, the herring gull and the lesser black backed gull. Too many greedy gulls can spoil things for the other water birds. Please don’t feed the birds as this simply increases the number of gulls at the expense of less aggressive neighbours. There is plenty of natural food for all the birds in the Park whether their taste is for water weeds or berries. The black headed gull is Britain’s commonest inland gull. With its chocolate brown face, white eye patch and dark red bill and legs, it is a handsome bird. To confuse things, however, in Winter it sports a white head with a dark eye patch. The herring gull has blue grey wings, beady yellow eyes and a characteristic red spot on its yellow beak. The lesser black backed gull is similar, except of course for its black back. Telling the young apart is more difficult as they all have a similar mottled brown appearance. There is even a rumour that a rarer fisherman has been spotted on the Park – the blue and orange flash of the kingfisher. Can you confirm it? LIFE ON THE WATER 17 Life on land Many animals have learned to live with humans. As cities extend into the countryside, wildlife as different as the fox and the blue tit has learned to take advantage of proximity to humans, whether by raiding rubbish bins or pecking off milk bottle tops. Buildings, parks and gardens offer shelter while discarded food and other organic matter provides a new source of nourishment. The animals and birds on Edinburgh Park have lost their fear of humans, while retaining most of the habits of their country cousins. Parade in the park The lawn outside your window can be a parade ground. The bird with the bobbing tail and the black grey and white plumage is the pied wagtail. Everyone will recognise the male blackbird with its yellow beak and glossy black coat. as he pecks the ground in search of a worm. He puts the flock of ‘scruffy’ brown house sparrows in the shade. The bird with the blue red and pink chest hopping along in a jerky fashion is the chaffinch whose thick bill is designed for eating seeds. Even more handsome is the great tit, his yellow chest divided by a dramatic vertical stripe of black. Why does the wagtail wag its tail? This is a mystery – could it be to attract insects or other wagtails or as a camouflage among waving grasses? You can tell some birds by their song. Blackbirds sit on a branch or roof top to deliver their rich mellow melody while the thrush likes to repeat every phrase of his tune. The plump black starling is a good mimic of other birds and even humans but gives the game away by a hoarse cackle at the end of his song. Crows regularly cackle on the roof of Gyle Shopping Centre. 18 A WALK IN THE PARK Pet or pest? Rabbits are regular visitors to Edinburgh Park. They run across the grass from their burrows on the railway embankment and beside the Gogar Burn, grazing the vegetation especially in the early morning or late evening. An occasional corpse at the roadside shows that rabbits have little traffic sense: they are dazzled by car headlamps and don’t have the wit to get out of the way. Many people associate rabbits with cuddly toys and Peter Rabbit. Their appealing lop ears and scruffy noses, however, are a front for powerful teeth. Look at the base of the beech hedges and other plantings round the car parks and beside the lochans and you will see the extent of the damage. The rabbits not only nibble the young shoots but strip the bark and, to add insult to injury, bite through the stems killing the plant in the process. Rabbits are the vandals of Edinburgh Park. Rabbits may occasionally end up as a meal for a Park fox, part of the invasion of the city in recent years by one of our wiliest and wildest animals. Even if you don’t see a fox as they hunt at night, you can detect their recent presence by their pungent smell. The mink, an even deadlier enemy not only of rabbits but also of the coot and moorhen, has been spotted in the Park. Introduced to Britain from the USA in the late 1920s, mink were farmed for their fur. Hundreds escaped and successfully established themselves in the wild. These solitary creatures maintain a territory of up to 4km along waterways which they use to hunt prey and as an aquatic motorway. If you see a mink, which looks a bit like a large weasel or a small otter, do not approach it as its bite can be nasty. Tell a member of Park Centre staff where and when you saw it and they will contact the SSPCA to have it humanely destroyed. LIFE ON THE LAND 19 Trees in the park Many of the trees and shrubs in Edinburgh Park are a hive of insect life. Over 200 different types of insect live in the willow, birch and rowan. Alder, hazel and beech are also rich in insect life which encourages birds. For every garden pest among the insects, there are two or three natural attackers. A magnificent row of chestnut trees sets a sight line beside the lochans while the lawns are studded with young lime trees, evenly spaced apart like soldiers on parade. They provide natural signposting and give an architectural quality to the landscape. In years to come half of the limes will be taken out to provide root space and light for the rest to reach full maturity. The boundaries of the Park are a foodstore for birds and insects. Their dense woodland plantings include sessile oak, the native oak of Scotland; Scots pine, Wellingtonia, a species of giant redwood; Norway maple, alder and large leaved limes. Rowans and snowberries add to the Autumn feast for birds. In Spring, the area around Park Centre is bright with the blossom of the Scots gean or wild cherry. By the lochan a softer, water woodland has been created alongside the native reeds and yellow flag, with Italian alder, silver birch, the silky grey leaves of the white willow and the bright red berries of the rowan. 20 A WALK IN THE PARK Insured for life Sometimes life on the water takes to life on the land. Although most ducks nest by the lochans, one mother once decided to insure the future of her ducklings, by choosing to nest within the open courtyard of the headquarters of Aegon. There was only one problem. Unable to fly, the ducklings could not reach the water to feed. For the first two days, staff fed them with lettuce and on the third day, the rescue squad moved in. Duck and ducklings were marched through Reception and the traffic was stopped to let them cross the road to the safety of their natural home. Ducks crossing! LIFE ON THE LAND 21 There is an old saying that Spring has come when you can cover five daisies with your foot. A year in the Park Spring Watch the aptly named Elephant’s Ears open their pale pink bell shaped flowers in greater profusion, week by week. In early Spring alder, hazel and willow start producing catkins – lambs’ tails and pussy willow. Look out for the courting couples, especially the acrobatic blue tits. In February the swans return and start to defend their territory. The cob will see off any other males who try to move in. Most fights between competing males do not, however, result in bloodshed. The hedgerows around the Park are white with hawthorn blossom. It is often called May after the month in which it flowers. In the 18th and 19th centuries hawthorn was often planted round the edges of fields because its dense jaggy branches acted as a natural fence for animals. In mid-March the swans start to build their nest, probably on the same site as in previous years. They take about ten days to construct it from reeds, grasses and twigs. In April the Park is carpeted by thousands of daffodils among 50,000 bulbs planted here. They have formed tiny flowers in their bulbs by the previous September but need the increasing daylight to come into bloom. That is why you can persuade daffodils to flower at Christmas if you grow them indoors. 22 Summer If there has been a heavy dew or a touch of frost, spiders’ webs sparkle as if they had been brushed with diamond glitter. Chestnuts flower in a mass of pyramid shaped candles. The young cygnets try out their gliding skills. On a warm summer’s day you may spot a damsel fly by the lochans or the metallic glint of a soldier-fly lazing on a leaf. Listen for the high pitched scream of swifts as they swoop on a cloud of insects. The sunnier the day the higher they fly. The huge orange, dark-eyed daisies of the Leopard Plant turn their heads to the sun at the water’s edge. Roughly twenty weeks after hatching, the cygnets finally take to the air having replaced their down with their brown, first year plumage. The chestnuts ripen and the leaves turn yellow and gold. As they switch off for the winter, their energy-capturing green pigments are reabsorbed until the lighter days return. Winter On a grey morning, look out for the fishing heron at the lochan’s edge. Autumn The dark plumage of the starling acquires its winter dusting of white speckles. Young trees take on their autumn colours earlier than mature ones as they have spent all their energy growing. On a snowy morning, you may find strange footprints. As the colder weather sets in, the family of swans disperse, the cygnets to a colony of younger birds and the adults to their winter feeding grounds. 23 The clumps of the tall, leafless stems of the dogwood by the lochans glow coral in a blink of winter’s sun. A walk on the wild side The route If you fancy a change from sandwiches at your desk or want to feel in touch with the changing seasons, this 40 minute walk may be the answer.You will need reasonably sturdy footwear as it can be muddy after wet weather. Walk down the right hand side of the lochans with Gyle Shopping Centre behind you. Turn right at the head of Loch Ross at the Bank of Scotland building. Go along the path at the side of the building and cross Lochside Avenue. Go through the tunnel under the Edinburgh bypass and follow the footpath across the field. The track continues along a slightly raised embankment with mature chestnut trees on your left.You pass along the side of a poultry farm. The track joins Gogar Station Road. On your right is the lodge and entrance to Millburn Tower, a ‘castle’ built in mock-Gothic style in 1806 for Sir Robert Liston who died here at the age of 93. He had an illustrious diplomatic career serving in Madrid, Stockholm, Istanbul and Philadelphia. He retired to Millburn Tower where his wife Henrietta created an American garden and introduced plants from the West Indies and Constantinople. In the 1860s the Talbot family owned the tower and William Fox-Talbot, the pioneer of photography, carried out experiments here. Turn left past the front of the poultry farm with views over open farmland on your right. On your left you can see some of the scrap that a city produces in the demolition 24 A WALK IN THE PARK = the route = the sculptures 25 contractor’s yard. Watch out for traffic on the bends as in places there is no pavement. The road crosses the main Edinburgh-Glasgow railway line and the Gogar Burn. On your right there is a glimpse towards Gogarbank House, an early 19th century mansion which later served as the residence of the General Officer Commanding Scotland. Turn left on to a more minor road past a half timbered bungalow. The magnolia tree in its garden is a mass of blossom in spring, competing with the wild blackthorn and hawthorn bushes nearby. Follow the track round the side of a crane hire operation and recross the railway line. Go through another tunnel under the bypass, with the Gogarburn flowing through a concrete channel on your left. Cross the road and turn left until you reach the first path on your right to return to the lochans in Edinburgh Park. 26 A WALK IN THE PARK Look out for You pass at least five distinct habitats on the walk. What appears simply to be a hedgerow or a piece of waste ground can be teeming with life. Over fifty species of flowering plant alone were found in a hundred metre stretch of roadside verge in nearby Balerno. Waste ground Some plants are adapted to move in and colonise land which has recently been disturbed. One of the most spectacular is rose bay willowherb, also known as fireweed because of its ability to grow on burnt ground. It added a dramatic splash of colour to city bomb sites during the Second World War. The purplish pink tall heads of flowers give way to silky white seeds which float off in the wind to colonise another piece of ground. Plantain We think of rose bay willowherb and most other invaders as weeds. If it was less common and grew on other than waste ground, would we still think of rose bay willowherb as a weed rather than the dramatic and beautiful flower that it is? The same goes for the convolvulus or bindweed, the climber with its delicate white or pale pink trumpet like flowers. Chickweed may be the gardener’s bane but pet goldfish love it. Other popular inhabitants of waste ground include ground ivy, ox-eye daisies, mustard, groundsel and plantains, whose spear shaped heads with clusters of brownish flowers make them look like grasses. There are plenty of true grasses as well.You may think one grass is much like another but watching the insects tells a very different story. Different types of insect favour different species of grass. look out for 27 Embankments Railway embankments are an excellent habitat for plants, insects and animals as they are undisturbed by agriculture or humans. Motorway embankments are also fertile habitats although some species may not be able to survive petrol exhaust or the spray of salt in icy weather. Beside the railway embankment, there is a treat for anyone who makes their own wine or jam or who likes to decorate their home with the fruits of the hedgerow. There is a huge wild rose bush with its delicately fragrant flowers and bright red hips in autumn. Close by is the elder with its yeasty cream flower heads for elderflower champagne or ice cream. Its dark purple berries are the basis for one of the most popular homemade wines. Alongside grow thick clumps of teasel which when dried make a dramatic winter flower arrangement. Teasel Hedgerows Hedgerows are a wonderful habitat for grasses and flowers. Take a plant guide with you one day and see how many you can find: guides can be borrowed from Park Centre. There will be the pink splash of campion from late spring onwards with their four deeply notched petals and white centres. There is the more sinister bittersweet or woody nightshade with its heart shaped leaves and sprays of violet flowers with bright yellow central tubes. The flowers give way to bright red juicy berries, about the size of blackcurrants. Watch out as they are poisonous although not as fatal as their relation, the deadly nightshade. Jack-by-the-Hedge 28 A WALK IN THE PARK Throughout the Summer you will find knapweed or hardhead which looks like a thistle without the prickles. Vetch, which is related to the sweet pea, clambers gracefully up the hedgerow with its varied spikes of blue, purple or yellow flowers. Rub the heart shaped leaves of Jack-by-the-hedge and you will smell why it is also called garlic mustard.You will know the lesser burdock when its long hooked spines catch on your clothes. This is the way it scatters its seed, travelling on the fur of passing animals. Common Fumitory The edge of the wood The overhanging chestnut trees provide the dampness and shade which certain plants like. One of the first signs of approaching Spring is the carpet of buttercup yellow celandine whose delicate petals turn a glossy white as they fade. Later you may find the bright yellow headed leopards-bane, also a popular garden plant, or the blue mist of the speedwell, peeking through the grass. There are clumps of nettles but help is at hand. Growing next door is a natural bandage, the broad leaved dock: the juice extracted by crushing its leaves takes the sting away. Nettles are useful plants as many types of butterfly lay their eggs on their leaves and the caterpillars of moths feed on them. Lime ploughed into the adjacent fields as a fertiliser by generations of farmers appeals to a very different group of plants, from the poppy to the distinctively lipped dense pink clusters of the common fumitory. Another lime loving plant is the crosswort with its yellow clusters of heavily scented flowers growing in leaf clusters up its stem in early summer. look out for 29 Beside the burn An early arrival is the showy butterbur whose lilac or yellowish heads appear before its leaves. Who could forget the bright blue of the forget-me-not? Growing at the side of the stream, marsh marigolds look much more like giant buttercups than their name suggests and in Summer, the delicate iris, the yellow flag, rests in its bed of grey green spikes. Like the marsh marigolds, they can also be found at the edge of the Park lochans while wild speedwell have taken root on the banks above. Marsh Marigold 30 A WALK IN THE PARK The art of nature South Gyle may be Britain’s largest urban sculpture park. Many of the artists whose work is set within the landscape of the Park and its surroundings have taken the natural world as their inspiration. VERSE ships nymphs The huge slab of rock at the entrance to Gyle Centre comes from the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. The rock contains vestiges of fossil creatures which swam the seas millions of years ago. They are a reminder that we humans are mere infants in the history of life. nymphs ships Outside Gyle Shopping Centre you cross a river of stones created by the leading Scottish artist, Ian Hamilton Finlay. He translated trees into a row of classical columns and their bark into barques or boats. • A car park is not a place where you expect to find either art or nature. Look more carefully and beside the beech hedges, among other artworks you will find a fossil tree by Bill Scott and a concrete jungle by Alan Watson. barque bark bark barque Ian Hamilton Finlay Even bus shelters can be works of art. The glass engraved by Julie Ross on the shelter at the Shopping Centre suggests fish swimming in an ocean or leaves swirling in the wind. People waiting at the Lochside Crescent bus shelters can find inspiration from poetry which reflects the changing seasons. ‘Epitaph for the Elm’ between numbers 6 and 7 Lochside Avenue commemorates the life and work of the wood sculptor Tim Stead, He created it by carving huge slices from the trunk of a elm which succumbed to Dutch Elm Disease in Braids Park. Ian Hamilton Finlay created the description stone. THE ART OF NATURE 31 Herms line the banks of the lochans, featuring the sculpted heads of twelve of Scotland’s leading 20th century poets. Read the verses from poets like Jackie Kay and Sorley MacLean to discover how nature is entwined in their imagery. From the poetry bus shelter, Spring 2007 Young Lambs “And where suns peep, in every sheltered place, The little early buttercups unfold A glittering star or two — till many trace The edges of the blackthorn clumps in gold. And then a little lamb bolts up behind The hill and wags his tail to meet the yoe,” John Clare (1793-1864) 32 A WALK IN THE PARK Finding out more A few suggestions to start you off on the wildlife trail. Borrow a pair of binoculars and study the birdlife close up. Buy or borrow from the library a good set of nature guides. The Collins Field Guides series is recommended. Load birdsong on to your iPod to identify who is singing in the Park. See how many wild flowers you can spot on the circular walk. Remember that the flowering date for plants in Scotland is often 2-3 weeks later than quoted in plant identification books. Find out from your staff club whether there are any people who share your interest in wildlife and get together. Start a notebook and record your observations over the seasons. Take part in one of the bird counts run by the RSPB or the media. If you enjoy art, ask at the Management Offices, Park Centre, next to The Edge Health and Fitness Club, for details of the walking guide which explores the artworks around South Gyle. Take a trip to the front of the RBS building to appreciate the work of possibly Scotland’s greatest 20th century sculptor. If you are interested in growing any of the plants which you see in the Park in your own garden and need advice, chat to one of the Park’s gardeners. FINDING OUT MORE 33 Raise money for your company’s next charity event by running a competition based on wildlife in the Park. It could be Trivial Pursuits or a prize for the best photograph. If you spot an Edinburgh Park swan elsewhere in Lothian, take its number and report it to Lothian and Fife Swan Study Group – email [email protected] Tell Park Centre staff about any unusual sightings. Tel 0131 317 1100 Email [email protected] 34 A WALK IN THE PARK Appendix: What to look for in and around Edinburgh Park The following list of plants, birds and insects has been compiled from several sources. They include observations made by people working in the Park and the planting details specified by the landscape architects for the Park, Ian White Associates. The list is no more than a snapshot in time, as the landscape is constantly changing. The best people to observe the life of Edinburgh Park are the people who work here all year round. As the Park matures, new species will arrive, some to visit and some to settle. Some species may move on or die out, because the environment does not offer the right food and shelter to allow them to thrive and breed. The English name for each species is followed by its Latin name. TO FIND OUT MORE 35 Plants and trees planted in Edinburgh Park Species marked with an * are native to Scotland Plants in the lochs Cape pond weed Curled pondweed* Fennel pondweed* Water lily Water lily Yellow water lily* Aponogetum distachyos Potamogeton crispus Potamogeton pectinatus Nymphaea attraction Nymphaea chromatella Nymphar lutea 36 Plants beside the lochans Day-lily Hemerocalus fulva Hemerocolus Day-lily ‘Dorothy McDade’ Iris Iris sibrica Male fern Dryopteris felix-mas Marsh marigold* Caltha palustris Ostrich fern Matteuccia struthopteris Reed sweet-grass* Glyceria maxima Reedmace* Typha angustifolia Rush Scirpus lacustris Soft rush* Juncus effusus Spiked water milfoil* Miriophyllum spicatum Yellow flag* Iris pseudocorus Plants elsewhere in the park Astilbe arensii Astilbe ‘Rhineland’ Bamboo Sasa species Bistort Polygonum affine Brass buttons Leptinela squalida Box Buxus sempervirens Dwarf broom Genista lydia Brazilian giant Gunera manicata rhubarb Symphytum Creeping comfrey grandiflorum Daffodils Narcissus King Arthur Dogwood Cornus alba sibrica Elephant ears Bergenia cordifolia Foam plant Tiarella cordifolia Galingale* Cyperus longus Geranium macrorrhizium Geranium and sanguinum Greater spearwort* Ranunculus lingua Hebe pinguifolia ‘pagei’ Hebe and subalpina Hosta Hosta crispula Irish ivy* Hedera helix ‘hibernica’ Japanese Lonicera japonica honeysuckle ‘halliana’ Leopard plant Ligularia ‘Cranog Gold’ Lesser periwinkle* Vinca minor Stachys byzantina ‘Silver Lamb’s ears carpet’ Lungwort Pulmonaria saccharata Persicaria affinis Persicaria ‘Darjeeling red’ Rodgersia Rodgersia podophylla Rose Rosa ‘max graf ’ Sheep’s fescue* Festuca avina Spotted dead nettle Lamium maculatum Tibetan cowslip Primula florindae Wood-rush maxima Trees planted in the park Alder* Alnus glutinosa Ash* Fraxinus excelsior ‘Altana’ Aspen* Populus tremula Beech Fagus sylatica Gean* Prunus avium Carpinus betulus Hornbeam ‘Fastigiata’ Aesculus Horse chestnut hippocastanum Tilia platyphyllos rubra Lime* Tilia Europaea pallida Acer platanoides ‘Emerald Queen’ Rowan* Sorbus aucuparia Silver birch* Betula pendula White barked Betula jacquemontii Himalayan birch White willow* Salix alba Yew* Taxus baccata 37 Norway maple Plants and trees growing wild in the vicinity of Edinburgh Park Flowering plants Bittersweet Black knapweed Broad leaved willowherb Broad-leaved dock Brooklime Bush vetch Butterbur Charlock Chickweed Common comfrey Common fumitory Common poppy Common spotted orchid Common vetch Cow parsley Creeping buttercup Creeping thistle Crosswort Curled dock Cut-leaved cranesbill Daisy Dandelion Field forget-me-not Field pansy Figwort Garlic mustard Giant hogweed Great willowherb Greater plantain Ground ivy Solanum dulcamara Centuarea nigra Epilobium montanum Rumex obtusifolius Veronica beccabunga Vicia sepium Petasites hybridus Sinapsis arvensis Stellaria media Symphytum officinale Fumaria officinalis Papaver rhoeas Dactylorhiza fuchsii Vicia sativa Anthriscus sylvestris Ranunculus repens Cirsium arvense Cruciata laevipes Rumex crispus Geranium dissectum Bellis perennis Taraxicum officinalis agg. Myosotis arvensis Viola arvensis Scrophularia nodosa Alliaria petiolata Heracleum mantegazzianum Epilobium hirsutum Plantago major Glechoma hederacea Groundsel Hairy bittercress Hairy tare Hedge mustard Hogweed Senecio vulgaris Cardamine hirsuta Vicia hirsuta Sisymbrium officinale Heracleum sphondylium Hop trefoil Trifolium campestre Doronicum Leopardsbane pardalianches Lesser burdock Arctium minor Lesser celandine Ranunculus ficaria Marsh marigold Caltha palustris Opium poppy Papaver somniferum Chrysanthemum Ox-eye daisy leukanthemum Persian speedwell Veronica persica Matricaria Pineapple weed matricariodes Pink campion Silene alba x dioica Prickly sowthistle Sonchus asper Ragwort Senecio jacobaea Red campion Silene dioica Red clover Trifolium pratense Redshank Polygonum persicaria Ribwort plantain Plantago lanceolata Chamerion angusti Rosebay willowherb folium Scentless mayweed Matricaria perforata Sorrel Rumex acetosa Spear thistle Cirsium vulgae Stinging nettle Urtica dioica Teasel Dipsacus fullonum Thyme leaved Veronica serpyllifolia speedwell Valerian Valeriana officinalis Weld Reseta lutiola 38 White campion White clover White dead-nettle Wild garlic Wild rose Wood avens Yellow flag Yorkshire fog Trees and shrubs Silene alba Trifolium repens Lamium album Allium ursinum Rosa species Geum urbanum Iris pseudocorus Holcus lanatus Alder Ash Broom Downy birch Elder Goat willow Hawthorn Rowan Sloe Sycamore Grasses nnual meadowgrass Poa annua A Cleavers Galium aparine Cocks-foot grass Dactylis glomerata Common bent Agrostis capillaris Common mouse-ear Cerastium fontanum Creeping bent Agrostis stolonifera False oat grass Arrhenatherum elatior Field horsetail Equisetum arvense Hard rush Juncus inflexus Osier Salix viminalis Reed canarygrass Phalaris arundinocea Sheep’s fescue Festuca avina Alnus glutinosa Fraxinus excelsior Cystisus scoparius Betula pubescens Sambucus nigra Salix caprea Crataegus monogyna Sorbus aucupario Prunus spinosa Acer pseudoplatanus Edinburgh has its very own species of Sycamore – Acer pseudoplatanus Corstorphinense. Its leaves are golden yellow when they first come out, several weeks before most sycamores. Planted around 1600 the original tree formed part of an avenue to Corstorphine Castle. At its base, drunken philanderer Lord Forrester was murdered by his lover in 1679. The tree was blown down in a gale in 1998 and its shattered stump finally died in 2005. Its botanical name lives on and its descendents still flourish in several parts of the city. 39 39 The birds of Edinburgh Park Breeding in the Park Blackbird Coot Mallard Moorhen Mute swan Skylark Tufted duck Turdus merula Fulica atra Anas platyrhynchos Gallinula chloropus Cygnus olor Alauda arvensis Aythya fuligula Visitors to the park Black headed gull Blue tit Chaffinch Collared dove Crow Dunnock Great tit Grey heron Herring gull House sparrow 40 Larus ridibundus Parus caerules Fringilla coelebs Streptopelia decaocto Corvus corone corone Prunella modularis Parus major Ardea cinerea Larus argentatus Passer domesticus Jackdaw Kingfisher Lapwing Lesser black- backed gull Linnet Magpie Oystercatcher Partridge Pied wagtail Ringed plover Rook Sedge warbler Song thrush Sparrowhawk Starling Swallow Swift Teal Wood pigeon A WALK IN THE PARK 40 Corvus monedula Alcedo atthis Vanellus vanellus Larus fuscus Acanthis cannabina Pica pica Haemotopus ostralegus Perdix perdix Motocilla alba Charadrius hiaticula Corvus frugilegus Acrocephalus schoenbaenus Turdus philomelos Accipter nisus Sturnus vulgaris Hirundo rustica Apus melba Anas crecca Columba palumbus A few of the insects in Edinburgh Park As well as many different types of flies, spiders, beetles and bugs, you may see: Land based insects Meadow brown butterfly Small white butterfly Common blue damsel fly Honey bee Buff-tailed bumble bee White-tailed bumble bee Water based insects Alderfly Common blue damsel fly Midge Soldier fly Water boatman Maneola purtina Artogeia rapae Enallagma cyothigerum Apis mellifera Silais species Coenaegrion puella Culex species Statiomys species Notonecta species Bombus terrestris Bombus lucorum Water Boatman 41 41 Your notes 42 A WALK IN THE PARK 43 A Walk in the Park is a short guide to help you enjoy and explore Edinburgh Park and its surroundings. It tells you a little of the history of the park and the lifestyle of its residents, whether willow, wagtail or water boatman. It suggests a wildlife walk which you may like to try out for yourself and introduces some of the public art that has been inspired by nature. Price: £4.50 ISBN 978 1 85191 032 8
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