full book: http://www.lulu.com/content/e-book/off-the-beaten-strasse/17377715 S U R V I V A L G U I D E H I S T O R Y 10 71 14 4 114 57 93 12 31 122 67 51 6 16 CONTENTS 104 4 I NTRODUCTION liberalism and open-mindedness, which means that there are very few restrictions on how you choose to have fun. As a city Berlin truly captures the ideal of ‘each to his own’ – this is a permissive society that allows for all types of people, no matter your choice of lifestyle. If all of this sounds right up your straβe, then read on, and discover all that Berlin has to offer. Steeped in fascinating and tumultuous history, Berlin is a vi- brant, cosmopolitan city that offers limitless surprises for travellers who look hard enough. With everything from fancy boutiques in Prenzlauer Berg to hardcore techno clubs in Kreuzberg, this city is surely able to accommodate your needs, whatever they may be. Furthermore, Berlin remains an affordable destination for young backpackers on a budget, especially the East of the city where a beer may set you back as little as 70 cents at the local supermarket. Many of the attractions and experiences on offer in this city can be taken in for free, or at a low cost. For instance admiring the quirky, original artwork on display at the East Side Gallery or taking a quiet moment to contemplate at the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. Berlin is a place that remains admirably conscious of its history, with various monuments and landmarks giving tourists an insight into its turbulent past. Landmarks such as The Brandenburg gate and Checkpoint Charlie stand at points where the Berlin Wall once divided this great city during the Cold War. The bustling, cultural haven that is Potdamer Platz is situated where there was once a desolate no-mans land, and now thousands flood every day to visit the plethora of museums and shops located there. Furthermore, the devastation caused by the Third Reich and the Second World War is given appropriate attention. There are various memorials such as the Soviet War Memorial and the Homosexual Memorial honoring those who died at the hands of the Nazis. Destinations such as the Topography of Terror also delve informatively into this dark time of the city’s history. By Robbie Collins As much as the illustrious history of this city, it is the cultural and social aspects that make it such a draw for young travellers. Abundant with trendy cafes and bars, indie shops, and pulsating nightlife, there is a truly distinctive vibe to this city that young adults are bound to love. Berlin is notorious for its 5 6 S URVIVAL GUIDE Tourist Traps Be wary of distraction techniques. Don’t entertain bogus charity representatives claiming to raise money for reputable causes. Thieves may often dress like beggars and will take any opportunity to snatch loose belongings if you are not careful. Essentials Supermarkets are usually open from 10:00-20:00 Monday through Saturday. Try to get all of your groceries early on in the week because supermarkets are closed on Sundays. If you are expecting to get over-the-counter medicine in supermarkets, like you can in the UK or United States then you are going to be disappointed. Apotheke is theequivalent to a pharmacy and if you are looking for any medicines, you will have to speak with the pharmacist on site. Basic service tips are often included in the menu price. However, it is customary to pay an additional 10% tip to your servers. There are many Wi-Fi cafés and bars spread throughout the city, make sure you buy a drink or snack so that you can ask for the Wi-Fi password. Have your student card with you at all times. Many attractions have discounted prices for students and this will help you save a couple of euros. When you take out cash, go somewhere reputable like Sparkasse or any major bank. Avoid unreliable cash stations in order to stay away from possible forged currency. Do not under any circumstances get your passport stamped at tourist hotspots like Checkpoint Charlie. It invalidates your passports and will set your trip back if you have to wait for a new passport to arrive. Something that they do not tell you and it is not worth it. Safety Precautions Berlin is a relatively safe place, in comparison to most capital cities. Being a cash-oriented city, it´s rare to be able to pay by card except in the chain stores or shopping malls. However, tourists can fall victim to theft so it never hurts to take certain precautions. 7 8 9 Useful Phrases Night-life Safety Street Tips Like any major city, you should always be careful when wandering the streets at night. Be on your guard and travel in groups. Although Berlin is a very tolerant city, there are still a few rowdy folks that may try to take advantage. When trying to cross the street, wait for the ample man to turn green. Jaywalkers can be fined up to €100. Some clubs in Berlin have a strict door policy and may refuse to let you enter. The dress code is usually black and casual. Try to stay away from bright colours, unless you want to stand out. Cycling is one of the major forms of transportation in Berlin. There are set pathways for cyclist s and locals often get annoyed when pedestrians walk on these lanes. You cannot take photographs in nightclubs. If you are caught, you may be kicked out of that club and barred from returning. Moreover, they could ask you to delete the photo on the spot or even confiscate your phone. Plan your night in advance and make sure to have emergency numbers written down. By Reetu Inamdar Hallo/morgen: Hello/morning Tschuss/chiao : Bye Schönes Abend/Wochenende: Have a nice evening/weekend Bitte: Please/you’re welcome Danke/vielen danke: Thanks/thanks very much Ja: Yes Nein: No Darf ich Fotos machen? May I take photos? Die Rechnung bitte.: The bill please. Wo ist die Toilette? Where is the toilet? Sprechen Sie English? Do you speak English? Was kostet das? What does that cost? Wo ist der nächste Supermarkt? Where is the nearest supermarket? Wo ist die nächste Spätkauf/Apotheke? Where is the nearest late shop/Chemists? H ISTORY 10 Building the Wall and Tearing It Down… While visiting Berlin you’ll be hard-pressed to find any district or Platz without ties to a defining, historic event. From the Brandenburg Gate to Lake Wannsee to the East Side Gallery, this city is ripe with reminders of the past and examples of its progress. Albert the Bear founded Berlin in 1157, giving it the famous bear emblem. The city rose to fame as the capital and main military hub of the Prussian state. Population and economy continued to grow rapidly as the capital of a unified Germany in 1871. At the end of the First World War, with help from the Allies, Berlin became a prosperous industrial city. Then in 1933 Hitler came to power as Chancellor of Germany. One month into Hitler’s rule, a curious fire started by a political opponent at the Reichstag gave Hitler the opportunity to ignore the German constitution and claim overarching powers. From this point on, Hitler and his party set out to persecute and ultimately sentence to death all Jewish citizens, among other ostracized minority groups. The Nazis constructed Sachsenhausen, a massive concentration camp nearby, to expedite this decree. Once World War II began, Berlin became a major target for attacks. The Allied airraids and threat of an advancing Soviet army finally brought down the city in 1945. Post-WWII, a third of Berlin lay in ruins. Thousands of ‘rubble women’ emerged to clear out the debris from devastated streets and buildings they once called home. Due to increasing concerns that the German capital city would fall to a totalitarian government, during the split of East and West Germany the Allies also took control of half of Berlin. The Western half of the city was divided between the UK, France, and the USA, while the East was occupied by the Soviet Union. This split left residents of West Berlin stranded in Socialist East Germany, at the mercy of a Soviet blockade in 1948. The USA and UK ‘Candy Bombers’ began delivering daily essentials by plane until ground access was allowed again a year later. When the Wall finally fell in November 1989, marking the end of the Cold War, East and West Berliners celebrated by dancing atop the divider in front of the Brandenburg Gate. In the years following Reunification and the fall of Communism in Germany, Berlin has transformed itself into a modern and exciting metropolis. It is a city wrought with possibility for Europe’s young artists and a mecca of historical landmarks destroyed and now rebuilt to their former glory. By Jessie DiMartino On June 17, 1953 East Berliners rose up against the German Democratic Republic (GDR), demanding democratic rights. Soviet tanks quashed all hopes of reformed living standards, sending many citizens running for the Western border. This triggered the construction of a Wall in 1961. Overnight, with no warning, the city was literally divided between a socialist regime and a democratic one. In the 28 years the Berlin Wall stood, only 5,000 people successfully escaped to the West; many others died or were injured attempting to flee. 11 T RANSPORTATION 12 Bus Berlin has a large network of transport systems including buses, trams and both over ground and underground trains. When travelling during the day, you will rarely find yourself having to wait any longer than ten minutes to board any of the transport systems, ensuring you can make the most of your time spent in this dynamic city. S-Bahn U-Bahn There are almost 170 stations covering 330km of network across fifteen lines, the S-Bahn is most useful for covering long distances over a short space of time, particularly between the suburbs and inner city. Stations can be easily spotted by the green and white ‘S’ symbol. Running mostly above ground and cutting through the centre of Berlin. At the weekend S-Bahn trains run 24 hours with 30-minute intervals per train at night. This service however, only runs from 04:30 - 01:30 on weekdays at five, ten or 20-minute intervals depending on the line and time of day. Famous for its yellow trains the U-Bahn (underground) network is 146km long and consists of 10 lines and 143 stations. Generally, trains come every three to five minutes. This is one of the quickest options for getting around the inner city. Running from 04:00 01:00 on weekdays and 24 hours on weekends. MetroTram and Tram There are 20 tram lines throughout Berlin which offer reasonably fast transport on comfortable, air conditioned carriages. Especially comprehensive in the Eastern areas of Berlin, such as Prenzlauer Berg and Friedrichshain. MetroTrams are marked with the letter ‘M’ and run 24 hours a day throughout the week. At ten minute intervals during the day, which means you’ll never be waiting for too long. After 00:30 they run at 30-minute intervals. With an extensive number of routes, travelling by bus provides a great way to take in some if Berlin’s most popular sites. The 100 and 200 bus lines have become well known to tourists due to their remarkable sight-seeing routes. Night buses, marked with the letter ‘N’, travel throughout the night, providing an invaluable service to explorers of Berlin’s eccentric nightlife. Insider Tips Underground, bus and tram operator BVG also offers information and a journey planner on their website. Download the BVG app for maps, and a route planner. Maps of the various networks can also be collected for free from stations. Even though you will often see locals drinking on public transport, it is in fact illegal to consume alcohol or eat on public transport, so be on your best behaviour. Tickets Tickets can be bought from ticket machines on trams, from bus drivers, or from multilingual ticket machines in S and U-Bahn stations. Tickets are valid for use on any of the four public transport systems. Single One Way Ticket - Zones AB: €2.70 / Zones ABC: €3.30 Valid for one person and a 2 hour journey across the city. Day Ticket - Zones AB: €6.90 / Zones ABC: €7.40 - Allows unlimited travel throughout the day. Valid from the day of its validation until 03:00 the following day. Seven Week Ticket - Zones AB: €29.50/ Zones ABC: €36.50 Valid for unlimited travel seven consecutive days from the day of its validation, until the seventh day midnight. Month Ticket - Zones AB: €79.50 / Zones ABC: €98.50 Allows unlimited travel throughout the month. Valid from day of validation until midnight of the final day. BVG Call Centre 03019449 for more information. By Steph Bassey 13 14 C URRYWURST, BOULETTES & KEBABS If sausages aren’t your thing, opt for another Berlin favourite – the boulette (€1.60). This flavourful pork patty is reminiscent of a large meatball. It can be served up two ways: sliced into bite sized pieces and drowned in the same curry-ketchup used on currywurst, or placed inside a roll with a dash of mustard. As with most fast food, boulettes are best eaten with a heaped serving of pommes coated in ketchup and mayonnaise. – Oh My! Picture this: you’re wandering the streets of Berlin - perhaps on your way home from Berghain in the wee hours of the morning, or maybe you’ve just finished a three-hour walking tour - and you feel that familiar sensation: hunger mixed with the unwelcome realization that you’ve only got a few euros left jingling in your pocket. Fear not, weary traveller, Berlin’s fast food staples are sure to leave you (and your wallet) satisfied. First stop, currywurst (ranging from €1.50-4). Berliners love their wursts – curry, brat, Thüringer rot – so it should come as no surprise that the most famous fast food in the city is this crispy pork sausage. What distinguishes currywurst from its bratwurst cousin is the smothering of spiced ketchup and dusting of curry powder that tops the sliced meat. While a few Imbiss stands claim they serve the crème-dela-crème of currywursts, there really isn’t much variety in taste. From the renowned Curry 36 (Mehringdamm 36, Kreuzberg) to any of the Currywurst Express branches throughout the city, a currywurst is a currywurst. So don’t bother queueing very long anywhere, go out and try them all. For a meal that will satisfy every meat-lover, go for the döner kebab. This modern take on a Turkish specialty combines char-grilled vegetables, savoury meat, carved from a large rotisserie (optional), and a selection of herb and spicy sauces. Falafel and halloumi options are available too. These heavenly pita-sandwiches vary greatly from place to place both in meat selection and quality of ingredients so be sure to do your research first. Mustafa’s (Mehringdam, Kreuzberg) vegetarian and chicken kebabs (€2.80-3.50) are the most popular, and with good reason, but be warned, the afternoon rush may leave you queueing for an hour to get this delicious treat. While Berlin has a wide selection of upscale restaurants and international eateries, for a quick meal on-the-go these fast food options are sure to lull any starved traveler into a satisfied food coma. By Jessie DiMartino 15 THE ALTES MUSEUM Stood alongside the Berliner Dom on the bank of the River Spree, stands Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s Neoclassical palace of ancient Roman, Etrucsan and Greek antiquities. The museum opened in 1830, and is home to the Antikensammlung, one of the world’s greatest collections of Greek and Roman art, coinage and marble statues, including a vast number of marble replicas of the archaic works of bronze sculptor Polykleitos of Argos. MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Berlin is home to some of the most profound and insightful museums and galleries in the world. Ranging in exhibits from ancient Egyptian artifacts to the tragic history of persecuted Jews to the surreal paintings of Dali, this city is a cultural hub. No matter your interests you are sure to find an exhibition that will challenge your opinions and expand your mind. A treasure trove of ancient gods, goddesses and classical mythology in marble form stand in progression as you take each step throughout the Altes, inviting you to ascertain a pleasure of all things classical. The museum offers the use of a free audio guide that is informative, engaging and very simple to use. The content of each room is based on a particular 17 Opening times: Tue–Sun 10:00-18:00 Thu 10:00-20:00 Admission: €10, Concessions €5 www.smb.museum S5, S7, S75: Hackescher Markt topic such as Everyday Life in an Ancient Metropolis and The Human Image in the Greek Classical Period. This museum offers an illustrative insight into a fascinating period in the history of art, and is a must-see for enthusiasts of ancient Roman and Greek culture. By Kalisto Bancroft ON ALTES NATIONALGALERIE Situated behind the Altes Museum on the River Spree this extravagant gallery exhibits a vast array of paintings and sculptures dating back to the reign of Friedrich Wilhelm IV, who envisaged a “sanctuary for art and science” from across the Berlin Palace. Designed by Friedrich August Stüler, the gallery was opened to the public for the birthday of Kaiser Wilhelm I on 21 March 1876. Tue–Sun 10:00-18:00 Thu 10:00-20:00 Admission: €10, Concessions €5 S5, S7, S75: Hackescher Markt www.smb.museum English) is additionally useful in providing historical content behind the artwork exhibited. Stare in wonder as you pass the rooms lined with gold, conceptually acting as a protective enclosure over the assortment of matured artistry. The gallery introduces artists such as Adolph Menzel, Karl Friedrich Schinkel, Johann Karl Schultz and Moritz von Schwind, among others. Marble statues stand throughout the hall, grand stairways and landings that fill the interior of the building, giving the gallery a certain ambience of classical mythology. The gallery’s collections are currently divided today between the Hamburger Bahnhof - Museum für Gegenwart - Berlin, the Neue Nationalgalerie, the Friedrichswerdersche Kirche, Museum Berggruen and the Sampling Scharf - Gerstenberg. An audio guide (that is offered in several languages including 18 THE KENNEDY’S The Kennedy’s visit to Berlin in 1963 was of monumental importance in world history, and this museum - gallery offers a fascinating account of this event. It was on this visit that US President John F. Kennedy gave the famous speech in which he stated “Ich bin ein Berliner”, a declaration of solidarity with the people of Berlin. Featured in the museum is an absorbing documentary playing on a loop, which shows footage of this historic speech and details the contribution of then Mayor of West Berlin, Willy Brandt. There is also a display of objects of interest from JFK´s visit, such as notes for the speech as well as an impressive array of well-arranged prints of the Kennedy family, all explained with clear information. Auguststraβe 11-13, 10117, Mitte Tue–Sun 11:00-19:00 www.thekennedys.de M5: Orianenberger Straβe. M8: Rosenthaler Platz. ative and pleasant way to spend an hour or two for the low price of €5. By Robbie Collins OFF The interior layout is modern, bright, clean and easy to navigate around, with pleasant and knowledgeable staff dotted around. The exhibition itself is not particularly large, but manages to cover JFK’s visit to Berlin in great detail whilst also giving a comprehensive account of his political life. For anyone with an interest in history and in particular for JFK fans, this exhibition represents an inform- ON By Kalisto Bancroft 19
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