Homeowner’s Combined Information Guides
Tel: 1-800-TOCOVER (800-862-6837)
Fax: 1-800-308-1460
www.homewarranty.com
Tel: 1-800-880-9123
Fax: 1-800-287-8673
www.disclosuresource.com
Enclosed Publications Include:
■
Residential Environmental Hazards−
A Guide For Homeowners, Homebuyers, Landlords and Tenants
California Environmental Protection Agency - 2011 UPDATE
■
Protect Your Family From Lead In Your Home
United States Environmental Protection Agency
■
Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
State of California Seismic Safety Commission
■
HERS - What is Your Home Energy Rating?
California Energy Commission
Compliments of Fidelity National Home Warranty and Disclosure Source
CALIFORNIA ENVIRONMENTAL
PROTECTION AGENCY
RESIDENTIAL ENVIRONMENTAL
HAZARDS:
A Guide For Homeowners, Homebuyers,
Landlords and Tenants
2011
This guide was originally developed by M. B. Gilbert Associates, under contract with the
California Department of Real Estate in cooperation with the California Department of
Health Services. The 2005 edition was prepared by the California Department of Toxic
Substances Control, in cooperation with the California Air Resources Board and the
California Department of Health Services, and meets all State and Federal guidelines
and lead disclosure requirements pursuant to the Residential Lead-Based Paint Hazard
Reduction Act of 1992. The 2005 edition incorporates the Federal “Protect Your Family
from Lead” pamphlet. The 2011 update was developed by the California Department
of Toxic Substances Control. This booklet is offered for information purposes only,
not as a reflection of the position of the administration of the State of California.
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
Page 1 of 48
January 2011
Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION
3
CHAPTER I ASBESTOS
5
CHAPTER II CARBON MONOXIDE
10
CHAPTER III FORMALDEHYDE
13
CHAPTER IV HAZARDOUS WASTE
17
CHAPTER V HOUSEHOLD HAZARDOUS WASTE
21
CHAPTER VI LEAD
24
CHAPTER VII MOLD
31
CHAPTER VIII RADON
36
APPENDIX A LIST OF FEDERAL AND STATE AGENCIES
42
APPENDIX B GLOSSARY
46
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
Page 2 of 48
January 2011
Introduction
The California Departments of Real Estate and Health Services originally prepared this
booklet in response to the California legislative mandate (Chapter 969, Statutes of
1989, AB 983, Bane) to inform the homeowner and prospective homeowner about
environmental hazards located on and affecting residential property.
The 2005 edition was prepared by the California Department of Toxic Substances
Control, in cooperation with the California Air Resources Board and the California
Department of Health Services’ Childhood Lead Poisoning
Prevention Program, Radon Program, and Division of Drinking Water and
Environmental Management, in response to a 1994 legislative mandate (Chapter 264,
Statutes of 1994, AB 2753, Sher). The 1994 legislation also requires this booklet to
consolidate the California disclosure requirements (Ch. 969, Statutes of 1989) and the
federal disclosure requirements (The Residential Lead-Based Paint Hazard Reduction
Act of 1992).
The information contained in this booklet is an overview of some environmental hazards
which may be found on or in residential property and which may affect residential real
estate. Since this booklet is not meant to be all inclusive, it should be used only for
general guidance. Although law requires the disclosure of known hazards, an
environmental survey may be conducted to obtain further information. Homeowners,
tenants, and prospective homeowners may wish to obtain other literature for additional
information on hazards of concern.
In California, sellers are required to disclose the presence of any known environmental
hazard. A statement that the homeowner is unaware of environmental hazards is not a
guarantee that the property is free of such hazards. It is in the homeowner’s and
prospective homeowner’s interest to know what hazards are common, where they are
found, and how they might be mitigated. This booklet will provide homeowners and
prospective homeowners with the information and additional resources needed to make
an informed decision about environmental hazards that may be present on a property.
Because of the contribution of household hazardous wastes to the problem of
hazardous waste disposal, a section on proper storage and disposal of household
hazardous products is included. In discussing health impacts of hazardous substances,
lifetime exposure to low levels is emphasized because the resident is more likely to
encounter this type of exposure than exposure to high levels of hazards for a short time.
Sources of additional information and a list of government agencies are provided for
further information.
Pursuant to AB 983, if this environmental hazards booklet is made available to
homeowners or prospective homeowners, real estate licensees and home sellers are
not required to provide additional information on such hazards. However, delivery of this
publication to homeowners or prospective homeowners does not relieve home sellers
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
Page 3 of 48
January 2011
and real estate licensees of the responsibility to disclose the existence of environmental
hazards when such hazards are known to them.
The material is presented with the understanding that the publisher is not engaged in
offering legal or other professional advice. If legal or other expert assistance is required,
the services of a skilled professional should be obtained.
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
CHAPTER I ASBESTOS
What is Asbestos?
Asbestos is the name given to a number of naturally occurring fibrous silicate minerals
that have been mined for their useful properties such as thermal insulation, chemical
and thermal stability, and high tensile strength. The three common types of asbestos
are chrysotile, amosite, and crocidolite. Chrysotile, also known as white asbestos and a
member of the serpentine mineral group, is the most common. Asbestos can only be
identified under a microscope.
Where is asbestos found in the home?
Asbestos has been used in many products found in the home that provide insulation,
strength, and fire protection. In 1989, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (U.S.
EPA) announced a phased ban of asbestos products to be completed by 1996.
However, in 1991, the U.S. Fifth Circuit Court of Appeals overturned and remanded the
asbestos ban and phase-out rule to EPA. Today, most asbestos products can still be
legally manufactured, although production of asbestos containing materials has
decreased dramatically since the late 1970s. The most common items in the home that
may contain asbestos are:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Vinyl flooring
Duct wrapping on heating and air conditioning systems
Insulation on hot water pipes and boilers
Some roofing shingles, and siding
Vermiculite attic insulation
Ceiling and wall insulation
Sheet rock taping compounds and some ceiling materials
Asbestos that has been sprayed on ceilings often has a spongy, “cottage cheese”
appearance with irregular soft surfaces. Asbestos troweled on walls has a textured, firm
appearance. Vermiculite attic insulation, found both in the attic between trusses and inbetween walls, also has the potential to contain asbestos. Vermiculite attic insulation is
a pebble-like, pour-in product and is usually light-brown or gold in color.
Manufacturers can provide information on the asbestos content of home products. A
certified asbestos consultant can be hired to test building material and determine
whether or not asbestos is present and to give advice about how to take care of it
safely. Current asbestos bulk testing methods may be insufficient to determine the
presence of asbestos in vermiculite attic insulation. For more information on vermiculite,
see U.S. EPA’s Protect Your Family from Asbestos-Contaminated Vermiculite at
www.epa.gov/asbestos/pubs/verm questions.html.
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
How is asbestos harmful?
Intact or sealed (painted or taped over) asbestos is not harmful unless it becomes
damaged and friable. Friable means the material can be easily crushed or pulverized to
a powder by hand pressure. Friable materials have a higher potential to release fibers.
Asbestos fibers that are released into the air and inhaled can accumulate in the lungs
and pose a health risk. This risk can be divided into two general categories: risk of
asbestosis (lung scarring); and increased risk of cancer.
The U.S. EPA classifies asbestos as a known human carcinogen. If asbestos fibers are
inhaled, the chance of contracting lung cancer or mesothelioma (cancer of the lining of
the chest or abdomen) increases. The more asbestos is inhaled, the greater risk of
developing cancer. Smokers who are exposed to high levels of asbestos have a much
greater risk of developing lung cancer than nonsmokers exposed to the same level.
Symptoms of cancer may not develop until 10-40 years after the first exposure to
asbestos.
Is there a safe level of asbestos?
There is no safe level of asbestos exposure. The more asbestos fibers you inhale, the
greater your risk of developing lung cancer and asbestos-related disease. Exposure to
asbestos should always be avoided.
How can asbestos content in materials be determined?
When you suspect asbestos is present in building materials, it is important to have the
materials tested by a qualified laboratory. Visual inspection alone is not enough to
identify the presence of asbestos. It is recommended that you contact a certified
asbestos consultant to take samples of potential asbestos containing materials and
have them tested by a qualified laboratory. A list of asbestos consultants who have
been certified by the California Department of Industrial Relations, Division of
Occupational Safety and Health (Cal/OSHA) for evaluating building materials and
recommending a course of action may be obtained on the Internet at
www.dir.ca.gov/Databases/doshacru/acruList.asp or by calling 510-286-7362 .
How should the homeowner repair or remove asbestos?
Repair or removal of asbestos by the homeowner may be unwise if the damage is
severe, since it may result in unnecessary exposure to airborne fibers. In cases where
planned remodeling projects are expected to damage asbestos-containing materials, it
is wise to hire a qualified contractor to remove the material. The homeowner should use
the following guidelines in choosing a qualified contractor:
•
Check to see if the contractor is licensed by the California Contractors State
License Board and registered with the California Department of Industrial
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
•
•
•
Relations, Division of Occupational Safety and Health (Cal/OSHA) for doing
asbestos work.
Be aware that some contractors may remove material incorrectly and still charge
a substantial fee.
Require references from the contractor and check them to see if the contractor's
work is satisfactory.
Require the contractor to specify his safety procedures in writing.
The homeowner can expect to pay three times as much for a small removal job than a
large one as it is expensive for a contractor to set up all the necessary safety
equipment. You should consider hiring a certified asbestos consultant to review safety
procedures and oversee the performance of the contractor.
Does the law require asbestos mitigation?
Asbestos mitigation is at the discretion of the homeowner. Even if material contains
asbestos, the homeowner may choose to leave it alone or, if necessary, repair it. If the
home owner chooses to do his or her own repairs, the home owner must comply with
the law. The free Department of Toxic Substances Control fact sheet “Managing
Asbestos Waste” is available on the DTSC Web site at
www.dtsc.ca.gov/PublicationsForms/upload/OAD_FS_Asbestos1.pdf
What about naturally occurring asbestos that is found near the home?
Naturally Occurring Asbestos (NOA) includes six regulated naturally occurring minerals
(actinolite, amosite, anthophyllite, chrysotile, crocidolite, and tremolite) and is commonly
found in California within serpentine and other ultramafic rocks and soils of the Coastal
Ranges, Klamath Mountains, and the Sierra Nevada Mountains. The California
Geological Survey has produced a map that identifies areas more likely to contain NOA
in California. The map may be found online at
www.consrv.ca.gov/cgs/minerals/hazardous_minerals/asbestos/index.htm.
Asbestos fibers may be released into the air as a result of activities which disturb NOAcontaining rock or soils. Development construction activities in areas that contain NOA
may release asbestos. Also, driving on roads or driveways surfaced with asbestos
containing gravel, such as serpentine, may release asbestos. The California Air
Resources Board (ARB) has established Asbestos Airborne Toxic Control Measures
(ATCMs) to regulate the surfacing of roads with asbestos-containing gravels and
construction and grading activities in areas potentially containing asbestos. For more
information about naturally occurring asbestos, go to
www.arb.ca.gov/toxics/asbestos/asbestos.htm.
Hotlines:
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
For information on the identification and abatement of asbestos hazards in the home,
and other information about asbestos visit the U.S. EPA Asbestos Web site at
www.epa.gov/asbestos .
For technical assistance and information about:
•
•
•
Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA);
Regulations and programs administered under TSCA, including
asbestos, lead-based paint, and PCB’s; and
EPA’s 33/60 voluntary pollution prevention program;
Contact the Toxic Substances Control Act Assistance Information Service (T.A.I.S.),
Washington, D.C. at:
Telephone: (202) 554-1404
Fax: (202) 554-560
E-mail: [email protected]
Publications:
Indoor Air Quality Infosheet - Asbestos
This free publication is available from:
American Lung Association
Environmental Health Department
909 12th Street
Sacramento, CA 95814
Telephone: (800) LUNG-USA [(800) 586-4872]
The Inside Story - A Guide to Indoor Air Quality
Asbestos in Your Home
These free publications are available from:
U.S. EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse
P.O. Box 37133
Washington, D.C. 20013-7133
Telephone: (800) 438-4318
FAX: (202) 484-1510
E-mail: [email protected]
Web: www.epa.gov/iaq
Asbestos in the Home and Workplace
This list is available on the Internet from:
California Department of Health Services
Indoor Air Quality Program
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
http://www.cdph.ca.gov/programs/IAQ/Documents/IAQ Asbestos 2000-03.pdf
List of Certified Asbestos Consultants
This list is available on the Internet or by mail for $8.00 from:
California Department of Industrial Relations
Division of Occupational Safety and Health (Cal/OSHA)
Asbestos Consultant Certification Unit
2211 Park Towne Circle, Suite 1
Sacramento, CA 95825
Telephone: (916) 574-2993
Web: www.dir.ca.gov
List of Asbestos Abatement Contractors
This list is available for $25.00 from:
California Department of Industrial Relations
Division of Occupational Safety and Health (Cal/OSHA)
Asbestos Contractor Registration Unit
455 Golden Gate Avenue, 10th Floor
San Francisco, CA 94102
Telephone: (415) 703-5190
Web: www.dir.ca.gov
What You Should Know Before You Hire a Contractor
This free publication is available from:
California Contractors State License Board
9835 Goethe Road
P.O. Box 26000
Sacramento, CA 95827
Telephone: (800) 321-2752 (To receive the publication, leave your name and address
on message phone.)
Note: Telephone numbers and prices were correct at the date of publication of this
booklet, but are subject to change.
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
CHAPTER II CARBON MONOXIDE
What is carbon monoxide?
Carbon Monoxide (CO) is an odorless, colorless and tasteless gas. It is highly toxic to
humans and animals in higher quantities.
Because it is impossible to see, taste or smell, breathing CO can incapacitate or kill you
before you are aware it is present in your home. At lower concentrations, CO may
produce flu-like symptoms, including headache, dizziness, disorientation, nausea and
fatigue.
What are the sources of carbon monoxide in the home?
CO is the result of incomplete combustion of carbon fuels and is produced from both
man-made and natural sources. Typical sources of CO in the home are:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Unvented kerosene and gas space heaters
Gas water heaters
Improperly adjusted or maintained furnaces or boilers
Wood stoves and fireplaces
Gas stoves and ovens
Gasoline powered equipment, such as generators
Automobile exhaust
Tobacco smoke
How is carbon monoxide harmful?
Following inhalation, CO combines with hemoglobin in the blood producing
carboxyhemoglobin, which is ineffective in delivering oxygen to the body tissues.
Carbon monoxide binds to other molecules such as myoglobin and mitochondrial
cytochrome oxidase and may cause significant damage to the heart and central nervous
system.
At low concentrations, CO exposure may result in fatigue in healthy individuals and
chest pain in people with heart disease. At higher concentrations, CO may result in
headache, nausea, dizziness, confusion, impaired vision, angina and reduced brain
function, depending upon the concentration in air and length of exposure. Exposure to
very high concentrations of CO can be fatal.
Breathing high levels of CO during pregnancy may result in miscarriage. Breathing
moderate levels of CO during pregnancy can result in slower than normal mental
development of your child. In animal studies, exposure to CO during pregnancy had
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
effects on birth weight, the heart, the central nervous system and development. Children
with asthma may be more susceptible to respiratory effects following exposure to CO.
What levels of carbon monoxide are found in the home?
Typical levels in homes with no gas appliances range from 0.5 to 5 parts per million
(ppm). Levels measured near properly adjusted gas appliances were between 5 and 15
ppm, while levels near poorly adjusted appliances can be 30 ppm or higher.
Is there a safe level of carbon monoxide?
No standards for CO have been adopted for indoor air. The National Ambient Air Quality
Standards for outdoor air are 9 ppm for eight hours and 35 ppm for one hour. The State
of California Air Resources Board (ARB) air quality standards for CO are 9 ppm for eight
hours and 20 ppm for one hour. The State of California, Office of Environmental Health
Hazard Assessment (OEHHA) established an acute, one hour exposure level of 23,000
micrograms per cubic meter of air (µg/m3) or 20 ppm for CO. This exposure level was
based on heart toxicity.
Can carbon monoxide be detected and measured?
California Senate Bill 183 (SB 183) will require owners of single family homes that have
a fossil-fuel burning appliance, fireplace or attached garage to install a CO alarm(s) by
July 1, 2011. CO detectors trigger an alarm based on accumulation of CO over time or
continuous detection of CO.
What can be done to reduce exposure to carbon monoxide?
Always make sure that gas appliances are maintained and properly installed. Here are
some common tips to reduce potential CO levels in your home:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Make sure appliances that burn natural gas, kerosene or other fuels are properly
installed and vented.
Have all appliances maintained on a regular basis.
Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and instructions for
installation of these devices.
Do not use portable gas heaters in enclosed indoor settings.
Do not let your car idle for long periods of time inside the garage.
Install and use an exhaust fan vented to the outside over gas stoves.
Make sure the flue is open when using your fireplace.
Use properly sized wood stoves certified to meet emission standards.
Most importantly, install carbon monoxide detectors throughout the home.
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
.
Links to Additional Information on Carbon Monoxide:
U.S. EPA, An Introduction to Indoor Air Quality (IAQ), Basic Information on
Pollutants and Sources of Indoor Air Pollution, Carbon Monoxide,
www.epa.gov/iaq/co.html
OEHHA, Impacts of Criteria Air Pollutants on the Respiratory Health of Children
www.oehha.ca.gov/public info/public/kids/pdf/balmes.pdf
USFA, DHS, Exposing an Invisible Killer: The Dangers of Carbon Monoxide
www.usfa.dhs.gov/citizens/co/fswy17.shtm
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), Carbon Monoxide Poisoning
Fact Sheet
www.cdc.gov/co/faqs.htm
Agency for Toxic Substances Disease Registry, CDC,ToxFAQs for Carbon
Monoxide
www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxfaqs/tf.asp?id=1163&tid=25
American Lung Association, Carbon Monoxide Indoors
www.lungusa.org/healthy-air/home/resources/carbon-monoxide-indoors.html
US Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), Carbon Monoxide Questions
and Answers
www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/466.html
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
CHAPTER III FORMALDEHYDE
What is formaldehyde?
Formaldehyde is a colorless, pungent gas that is soluble in water and most organic
solvents. It is used as a raw material in the manufacture of building materials, many
consumer products, and some fabrics. Formaldehyde is found in the outdoor air at an
average concentration of approximately 3 parts per billion (ppb) or 3.7 micrograms per
cubic meter of air (µg/m3).
How is formaldehyde harmful?
The Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment (OEHHA) has concluded that
exposures to formaldehyde can cause cancer in humans. In 2004, the International
Agency for Cancer Research upgraded formaldehyde to a Group I (known human)
carcinogen, based on human epidemiology studies of nasopharyngeal cancer.
Exposure to airborne formaldehyde may also cause other illnesses, such as irritation to
the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract; coughing; sore or burning throat; nausea; and
headaches. Formaldehyde may also worsen asthma or allergy symptoms in those with
such pre-existing sensitivities. Reducing exposures to formaldehyde will reduce these
health risks.
What levels of formaldehyde are found in the home?
The average formaldehyde concentration inside California homes is about 14 ppb (17
µg/m3) in conventional homes and 37 ppb (45 µg/m3)in manufactured homes.
Formaldehyde concentrations have been measured at levels greater than 200 ppb (246
µg/m3) in both manufactured and new conventional homes. However, concentrations
inside manufactured homes are generally higher than those in conventional homes due
to the increased use of composite wood products.
What are the sources of formaldehyde in the home?
Indoor sources are the major cause of exposures to formaldehyde because people
spend most of their time indoors, and there are many indoor sources of formaldehyde
that typically produce concentrations several times higher than outdoor levels.
Composite wood products are probably the greatest source of formaldehyde in the
home. Other sources include other building materials such as some paints, coatings,
and wallpaper; some consumer products such as fingernail products; permanent
pressed fabric such as clothing and draperies; and combustion sources such as
cigarettes and gas appliances.
What are composite wood products?
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
Plywood, particleboard, and oriented strandboard are composite wood products that are
bound together with formaldehyde-containing resins. The two most commonly used
resins are urea-formaldehyde and phenol-formaldehyde. Composite wood products
used within the home include:
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
Particleboard - used for cabinetry, subflooring, shelving, and furniture Hardwood
plywood - used in paneling, furniture, and as a wall covering
Medium density fiberboard - used in cabinets, doors, table tops, furniture, and
shelving
Oriented strandboard and softwood plywood - used for exterior use and subflooring,
which are manufactured using low-emitting phenol-formaldehyde resins
Why is formaldehyde emitted from these products?
In the production of the resins, not all formaldehyde is bound tightly. Unbound or free
formaldehyde can be released later as a gas from composite wood products.
Formaldehyde emissions are highest from products made with urea-formaldehyde
resins and new products. Emissions ordinarily decrease to low levels over time, as the
product ages and off-gasses. If properly manufactured, composite wood products that
incorporate phenol-formaldehyde resins do not release significant amounts of
formaldehyde.
Is urea-formaldehyde foam a significant source of formaldehyde in homes?
Urea-formaldehyde foam insulation (UFFI) was installed in the wall cavities of some
homes during the 1970s and has been used in the manufacture of mobile homes. The
Consumer Product Safety Commission banned the use of UFFI in homes and schools
in 1982. Although a Federal Court subsequently removed this ban for procedural
reasons, UFFI is not currently being installed in homes in California because it does not
meet the insulation standards of the California Energy Commission. In homes where
UFFI was installed prior to 1982, formaldehyde concentrations have declined with time
to levels that are generally comparable to those in homes without UFFI.
How can formaldehyde be detected and measured?
Levels of formaldehyde can be measured by chemical analysis of air samples collected
indoors. In general, ambient air monitoring of formaldehyde is done on a 24-hour or
several day basis using standard analytical techniques and methods established by
federal and state agencies. A useful indicator of the presence of indoor formaldehyde is
knowledge of the formaldehyde content or emissions of products. This information can
usually be obtained from the manufacturer. In general, you do not need to measure
formaldehyde levels if there are few or no materials in the building known to emit high
levels of formaldehyde, because levels would then be expected to approach the lower
outdoor levels. However, if known or suspected sources are extensively present and
cannot be readily removed, it is wise to measure the levels of formaldehyde, to assure
that levels are no greater than 7 ppb (9 µg/m3).
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
Is there a safe level of formaldehyde?
Most people experience eye and throat irritation when exposed to formaldehyde at
levels above 100 ppb (123 µg/m3). Because people differ in their sensitivity to toxic
effects, it is difficult to precisely define a concentration of formaldehyde that would be
harmless to all people under all circumstances.
Levels in the outdoor air may be considered as the lowest levels that can practicably be
achieved in the home. OEHHA has established acute (55 ug/m3, or 44 ppb, one-hour
average) and chronic (9 ug/m3, or 7 ppb, long-term average) exposure levels to identify
the levels at which sensitive individuals might experience adverse non-cancer health
effects. For indoor environments, OEHHA has also identified 7 ppb as the eight hour
average level that is protective against non-cancer effects for sensitive individuals.
Because formaldehyde may cause cancer, and there is no known level that is
absolutely risk free, the California Air Resources Board (ARB) recommends that indoor
formaldehyde levels be reduced as much as possible.
What can be done to reduce indoor formaldehyde levels?
Immediate measures include opening windows to increase ventilation and reducing the
number of new composite wood products in a home. Where possible, replace
composite wood products such as bookcases with products made from solid wood or
non-wood materials. Formaldehyde emissions increase with increasing humidity and
temperature. Therefore, reducing the temperature and humidity in the home will reduce
formaldehyde levels.
Where the source of formaldehyde is wood paneling or extensive cabinetry, these
measures may not be adequate. In those cases, removal of the paneling or coating, or
replacement of cabinets may be necessary. Local trade organizations and builders’
associations may be helpful in finding a contractor to do this work. You can find
additional suggestions for reducing indoor formaldehyde levels in the publications listed
below.
Publications:
Formaldehyde in the Home-Indoor Air Quality Guideline #1, updated August 2004,
www.arb.ca.gov/research/indoor/guidelines.htm
OEHHA, Appendix D. Individual Acute, 8-Hour, and Chronic Reference Exposure
Level Summaries, December 2008,
www.oehha.ca.gov/air/hot spots/2008/AppendixD1 final.pdf#page=128
Determination of Formaldehyde and Toluene Diisocyanate Emissions from Indoor
Residential Sources, www.arb.ca.gov/research/apr/past/indoor.htm , click on Toxic Air
Contaminants, scroll down.
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
Final Report on the Identification of Formaldehyde as a Toxic Air Contaminant 1992.
These free publications are available from:
California Air Resources Board, Research Division, Indoor Exposure Assessment
Section
P.O. Box 2815
Sacramento, CA 95812
Telephone: (916) 322-8282 (For first two publications listed)
Telephone: (916) 322-7072 (For third publication listed)
Web: www.arb.ca.gov
The Inside Story - A Guide to Indoor Air Quality
An Update on Formaldehyde
These free publications are available from:
Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse
P.O. Box 37133
Washington, D.C. 20013-7133
Telephone: (800) 438-4318
FAX: (202) 484-1510
E-mail: [email protected]
Web: www.epa.gov/iaq/
A Consumers Guide to Manufactured Housing
Manufactured Housing for Families
These free publications are available from:
California Department of Housing and Community Development
Division of Administration
P.O. Box 31
Sacramento, CA 95812-0031
Telephone: (916) 445-3338
Web: www.hcd.ca.gov
Note: Telephone numbers and prices were correct at the date of publication of this
booklet, but are subject to change.
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
CHAPTER IV HAZARDOUS WASTE
What is hazardous waste?
Hazardous waste is anything left over from a manufacturing process, chemical
laboratory, or a commercial product that is dangerous and could hurt people, animals,
or the environment. Many industries, such as oil and gas, petrochemical, electronics,
dry cleaners, and print shops, generate hazardous waste.
When hazardous waste is properly managed it is shipped to special facilities for
treatment, storage, disposal, or recycling. Hazardous waste that is not properly
managed may escape into the environment and contaminate the soil, surface and
ground water, or pollute the air. Some causes of hazardous waste releases are leaking
underground storage tanks, poorly contained landfills or ponds, hazardous waste spills,
or illegal dumping directly on land or water.
What is California doing to locate and clean up hazardous waste sites?
The U.S. EPA has targeted about 1,200 sites nationwide for federal cleanup under the
federal Superfund Program. Almost 100 of those sites are in California. California is
overseeing the cleanup of hundreds of other sites under a state Superfund administered
by the California Department of Toxic Substances Control (DTSC). DTSC works jointly
with U.S. EPA and other state agencies, such as the California Regional Water Quality
Control Boards and local health departments, to manage hazardous waste problems.
The primary purpose of site cleanup and mitigation activities at hazardous waste sites is
to reduce or eliminate the risks the sites pose to public health or the environment.
How can the prospective homeowner determine if a home is affected by a
hazardous waste site?
State law requires certain written disclosures to be made to prospective homeowners.
The seller is required to disclose whether he or she is aware that the property has any
environmental hazards such as asbestos, formaldehyde, radon, lead-based paint, fuel
or chemical storage tanks, or contaminated soil or water. You can find additional
information on real estate disclosure “Disclosures in Real Property Transactions”
available from the California Department of Real Estate. See Appendix A in this
document for information on how to contact them.
A prospective homeowner may also get information about hazardous waste sites near a
home by consulting the “Hazardous Waste and Substances Sites List” which is
maintained by the California Environmental Protection Agency (CalEPA). The list is a
comprehensive inventory of hazardous waste sites in California, including contaminated
wells, leaking underground storage tanks, and sanitary landfills from which there is a
known migration of hazardous waste. It also lists active federal and state hazardous
waste sites scheduled for cleanup as well as potential hazardous waste sites.
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Information on how you can get a copy of this list is at the end of this chapter. The
addresses of federal and state agencies that manage hazardous waste programs are
listed in Appendix A.
A homeowner or prospective homeowner may choose to hire a registered
environmental assessor to investigate a known or suspected environmental hazard at a
property. To obtain a list of registered environmental assessors, contact the Registered
Environmental Assessor Program at:
P.O. Box 806
Sacramento, CA 95812-0806
Telephone: (916) 324-6881
FAX (916) 324-1379
Web: www.dtsc.ca.gov/rea/
Internet Resources:
You can learn more about the role of the Department of Toxic Substances Control in
protecting Californians from hazardous waste by visiting its Web site at
www.dtsc.ca.gov .
Department of Toxic Substances Control Envirostor Database can be accessed at
http://www.envirostor.dtsc.ca.gov/public/.
The Federal database of potentially contaminated sites is available at
www.epa.gov/superfund/sites/index.htm.
The Hazardous Waste and Substances Sites List (Cortese List) on the locations of
hazardous materials release sites is at
www.dtsc.ca.gov/database/Calsites/Cortese List.cfm .
The List of Leaking Underground Storage Tanks is available on the Web at
www.geotracker.waterboards.ca.gov.
Hotlines:
For information on the federal Superfund program and the National Priorities List (NPL),
contact the U.S. EPA RCRA, Superfund, EPCRA hotline at:
Telephone: (800) 424-9346
Publications:
Disclosures in Real Property Transactions
This publication is available for $2.00 plus tax from:
California Department of Real Estate Book Orders
P.O. Box 187006
Sacramento, CA 95818-7006 (Mail orders only; a self-addressed envelope is required.)
Web: http://www.dre.ca.gov/pdf docs/re6.pdf
List of Registered Environmental Assessors
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This list is free if you are hiring a registered environmental assessor. If you wish to use it
as a mailing list, it is available on CD for $6.25 and as a hard-copy printout for $35.00.
It’s also available free on our Web site at:
www.dtsc.ca.gov/rea
Department of Toxic Substances Control
Registered Environmental Assessor Program
P.O. Box 806
Sacramento, CA 95812-0806
Telephone: (916) 324-6881
The Toxics Directory: References and Resources on the Health Effects of Toxic
Substances
This publication is available for $9.90 from:
California Department of General Services
Documents and Publications
P.O. Box l015
North Highlands, CA 95660
(Send written request with your name and street address. Make your check out to
Procurement Publications.)
Ensuring Safe Drinking Water (600M91012)
This free publication is available from:
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
Public Information Center
1200 Pennsylvania Ave, N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20460
Telephone: (800) 490-9198
Consumer’s Guide to California Drinking Water
This publication is available for $4.00 (plus 5% shipping charge and tax) from:
Local Government Commission
1414 K Street, Suite #600
Sacramento, CA 95814
Telephone: (916) 448-1198 x307
Web: www.lgc.org
Is Your Drinking Water Safe? (PB94-203387)
This publication is available for $19.50 plus $4.00 shipping from:
National Technical Information Service
5285 Port Royal Road
Springfield, VA 22161
Telephone: (800) 553-6847
Web: www.ntis.gov
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Note: Telephone numbers and prices were correct at the date of publication of this
booklet, but are subject to change.
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CHAPTER V HOUSEHOLD HAZARDOUS WASTE
What is household hazardous waste?
Although hazardous waste is usually associated with industrial or manufacturing
processes, each year Californians discard tons of hazardous wastes in trash cans or
down the drain. To determine whether a product is hazardous, ask yourself these
questions:
•
•
•
•
Is it poisonous when swallowed, touched, or inhaled?
Does it catch fire easily?
Is it corrosive? Can it eat through certain containers?
Is it reactive? Could it explode if it is improperly stored, spilled, or mixed with
other products?
If you answer yes to any these questions, then the product is hazardous. Information
about whether a product is hazardous usually can be found on the container label. The
words “caustic,” “flammable,” “toxic,” and “ignitable” mean that the product is hazardous.
Some products are hazardous on their own, but can become even more dangerous
when they are mixed with other household products. For example, most people know
that bleach is poisonous, but when it is mixed with ammonia-based cleaners it releases
chlorine and hydrazine gases, both of which are extremely poisonous.
Some other hazardous household products are:
• Cleaning products containing ammonia
• Chlorine bleach and cleaning products containing it
• Drain cleaners
• Carpet cleaning products
• Oven cleaners
• Metal polishes
• Garden supplies such as weed and insect killers, rat poison, and fertilizer
• Charcoal lighter fluid, and kerosene
• Automotive supplies such as antifreeze, motor oil, gasoline, batteries and brake
fluid
• Paint, varnish, paint removers, glues, and waxes
• Electronic products such as cathode ray tubes, televisions, computers, cell
phones
• Universal wastes such as fluorescent lights, small batteries, and products
containing mercury
How should hazardous household products be stored?
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Hazardous products should be stored in a cool, dry, secure location. They should be
stored in locked cupboards, locked drawers, or on a high shelf out of the reach of
children and pets. To prevent hazardous products from spilling during an earthquake,
shelves should be firmly secured to the wall and have a restraining bar along the side.
The following guidelines will help you properly store household hazardous products:
•
•
•
•
•
•
Store poisonous products apart from other products.
Sort products into hazardous waste categories of poisonous, flammable,
corrosive, and reactive and store them separately. For example, flammable
products such as charcoal lighter and waste oil should be stored apart from
corrosive products such as drain cleaner and acid batteries. It is important to
store reactive products in a separate location.
Store bleach and ammonia-based cleaners in separate cupboards, so that if
there is a spill the products won’t get mixed and release poisonous gas.
Store products in their original containers.
Make sure labels can be read and won’t come off the container.
Tightly seal containers and check them often to make sure they are not breaking
down. If you notice a container is rusting or leaking, put it inside a larger
container and label it clearly.
What is the best way to dispose of household hazardous waste?
The best way to dispose of household hazardous waste is to take it to a community
household hazardous waste collection center in your area.
You should never pour unused hazardous household products down the drain. That is
illegal in California. It is also illegal to pour used oil and paints on land, down drains,
including the storm drains, or to burn them. Waste motor oil, oil filters, antifreeze, and
used batteries can be recycled. You should take them to a recycling center or a
household hazardous waste collection center. For information about recycling specific
products or about household hazardous waste collection programs in your community,
call 1-800-CLEANUP or visit the
Department of Resources Recycling and Recovery (CalRecycle) Web site at
http://www.calrecycle.ca.gov/. You can get additional information on household
hazardous waste at www.earth911.org .
Hotlines:
For information on household hazardous waste and used oil collection and recycling
centers, information on buying recycled products, the 3 R’s - Reduce, Reuse and
Recycle, and other environmental tips and events, contact the California Environmental
Hotline at:
Telephone: 1-800-CLEANUP (1-800-253-2687)
Web Site: www.1800cleanup.org
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For information on recycling and collection centers and referrals for county and city
agencies, call the California Integrated Waste Management Board at:
Telephone: (800) 553-2962
To report hazardous waste violations, call the California Department of Toxic
Substances Control Waste Alert hotline at:
Telephone: (800)-69TOXIC [(800) 698-6942]
For general information on hazardous wastes, call the California Department of Toxic
Substances Control at:
Telephone: (800) 61TOXIC [(800) 618-6942]
Publications:
Household Products Management Wheel
This product is available for $4.95 from:
Environmental Hazards Management
Institute 10 New Market Road
P.O. Box 932
Durham, NH 03824
Telephone: (603) 868-1496
FAX: (603) 868-1547
Note: Telephone numbers and prices were correct at the date of publication of this
booklet, but are subject to change.
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CHAPTER VI LEAD
How is lead harmful?
Lead is a common environmental toxin that has been used extensively in consumer
products such as paint and gasoline. Much of that lead remains in the California
environment where people may be exposed to it. Children under the age of six years
are particularly at risk. They typically are exposed to lead through the normal hand-to
mouth behavior that occurs as they explore their environment. Crawling or playing on
the floor, and putting their fingers, toys, and other items in their mouths can expose a
child to lead. Lead poisoning, which is often unrecognized, can result in health effects
that are often irreversible, including brain damage, mental retardation, convulsions, and
even death. If lead poisoning goes undetected, it may result in behavior problems,
reduced intelligence, anemia, and serious liver or kidney damage.
Lead is also harmful to adults. Lead poisoning can cause reproductive problems in both
men and women, high blood pressure, kidney disease, digestive problems, nerve
disorders, memory and concentration problems, and muscle and joint pain. Adult lead
poisoning is most often the result of occupational exposure, or exposure following
unsafe home renovation. If a pregnant woman is lead poisoned, the lead can pass into
her baby’s blood and poison the baby.
How can I find out if my family has lead poisoning?
The most important step you can take to protect your children is to prevent them from
being exposed to lead. Most lead poisoning does not cause acute symptoms, so the
only way to know if a person is lead poisoned is by testing the level of lead in his or her
blood.
There are many ways a child can be exposed to lead. The law assumes that, at
minimum, children are at risk if they are on publicly funded programs for low-income
children or if they live in, or spend a lot of time in, a place built before 1978 that has
peeling or chipped paint, or that has been recently renovated. These children must be
tested for lead at age one and two years. Children below the age of six years, who were
not tested at ages one or two, should receive make-up testing as soon as possible. If
you have a job or a hobby where you may be exposed to lead, you should be tested
regularly. If you are pregnant, ask your doctor about a lead test.
A physician can order this simple test. Some doctors and healthcare centers can
perform the test in their offices. Under California law, it must be covered by health
insurance plans. Children from families with modest incomes can be tested at no cost
through the Child Health and Disability Prevention Program (CHDP). The test is a
required part of well-child checkups. For more information on CHDP and to locate an
office in your area visit their Web site at www.dhs.ca.gov/pcfh/cms/chdp.
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Because lead poisoning is the result of contact with lead, the primary treatment is to
identify the source of lead, and remove or isolate it. Further medical management may
be necessary, depending on factors such as the severity and duration of exposure.
Adults and children who become lead poisoned will need regular testing to monitor
levels of lead in the body.
Where is lead found in the home?
Many houses and apartments built before 1978 have paint that contains lead. In 1978,
the Consumer Product Safety Commission banned paint containing high levels of lead
for residential use. If your home or apartment was built before 1978, you should assume
it has lead paint.
Lead-based paint that is peeling, chipping, chalking, or cracking is a hazard and needs
immediate attention. Lead-based paint may also pose a hazard on surfaces children
can chew or in areas with heavy wear. These areas include windows, windowsills, doors
and doorframes, stairs, railings, banisters, porches, and fences. When painted surfaces
bump or rub together, they generate lead dust. Likewise, dry-scraping, sanding, or
heating lead paint during repainting or remodeling also creates large amounts of lead
dust. This dust can poison your family.
Soil may be contaminated with lead from leaded gasoline emissions and from
deteriorating exterior paint. Lead in soil can be a hazard to children who play in the bare
soil. It can also contaminate the home and floor dust when people track soil into the
house on their shoes.
Other Sources: Lead can be found in jobs such as battery repair or recycling, radiator
repair, painting or remodeling, and lead smelting. Lead from the workplace poses a
hazard for workers’ families. Workers can bring lead into their homes on their work
clothes, shoes, and bodies without knowing it. Some hobbies also use lead. These
include ceramics, stained glass, fishing weights, and bullet casting or firing. Lead can
leach into food cooked, stored, or served in some imported dishes or handmade pottery.
Some traditional remedies
such as Azarcon, Greta, Pay-loo-ah, Surma, Kohl, and Kandu contain large amounts of
lead and present a serious danger. Imported candy, especially chili or tamarind candy
or its packaging, is frequently lead contaminated. Lead has been found in painted toys
and inexpensive costume jewelry, particularly imported items. Older water systems may
have pipes containing lead or pipes with lead solder.
How can I check my home for lead hazards?
To inspect your home for lead hazards, hire an individual who has been certified by the
California Department of Public Health (CDPH). CDPH certification is now required for
all those doing lead hazard evaluations, lead abatement plan preparation, lead
abatement work and lead clearance inspections for residential and public buildings in
California (Title 17, CCR § 35001-35050 and § 36000-36100). A CDPH-certified
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inspector/assessor can determine the lead content of painted surfaces in your home
and identify sources of lead exposure such as peeling paint, lead contaminated soil, or
lead-contaminated dust. The assessment should outline the actions to take to address
these hazards.
A CDPH-certified inspector/assessor may use a variety of methods to assess lead
hazards in your home. These include visual inspection of paint condition; laboratory
tests of paint, dust and soil samples; and a portable
x-ray fluorescence lead testing (XRF) machine.
You may have seen home lead test kits in your local hardware store. Recent studies
suggest, however, that they are not accurate for testing paint, soil, or dust. They may be
used, however, to test pottery and ceramics for the presence of lead.
How can I reduce lead hazards safely?
If your house has lead hazards, you can take action to reduce your family’s risk. Most
importantly, if you have young children, be sure they receive a blood lead test. This is
particularly critical if you live in a unit that has been recently renovated or have
remodeled your home.
Second, keep your home as clean and free of dust and deteriorated paint chips as
possible. Clean floors, window frames, windowsills, and other horizontal surfaces
weekly. Use a mop, sponge, or disposable cloths with a solution of water and an allpurpose cleaner. Rinse out mops and sponges thoroughly after use. Use doormats or
remove shoes before entering your home to avoid tracking in lead from bare soil. Have
children play in grassy or landscaped areas instead of bare soil.
Wash children’s hands often, especially before meals and bedtime. Keep play areas
clean. Wash bottles, pacifiers, toys, and stuffed animals regularly. Feed your children
nutritious meals that include foods high in iron and calcium. Give children regular meals
and snacks. Children with full stomachs and nutritious diets tend to absorb less lead.
How can I significantly reduce lead hazards?
In addition to regular cleaning and good nutrition, you can temporarily reduce lead
hazards by repairing damaged painted surfaces and planting grass or using
landscaping materials to cover soil with high lead levels. These actions are not
permanent solutions and need ongoing attention.
To permanently remove lead hazards, you should hire a lead abatement contractor.
Abatement methods include removing, sealing, or enclosing lead-based paint with
special materials. Simply painting over lead-based paint with regular paint is not a
permanent solution. Hire an individual who has been certified by the CDPH as a
Supervisor. CDPH-certified Supervisors and Workers have the proper training to do this
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January 2011
work safely. They have the proper equipment to clean up thoroughly. They will also
follow strict safety rules set by the state and federal governments.
What precautions should I take when remodeling my home?
Before you begin any remodeling or renovations that will disturb painted surfaces, (such
as scraping or sanding paint, or tearing out walls) test the area for lead-based paint. To
fully protect your family from unsafe renovation hazards, hire a CDPH-certified
Supervisor.
Never use a dry scraper, belt-sander, propane torch, or heat gun to remove lead-based
paint. These actions create large amounts of poisonous lead dust and fumes. This lead
dust can remain in your home long after the work is done, and can make your family
very sick. It is important to move your family (especially children and pregnant women)
out of the home until the work is completed and the area has been properly cleaned.
You can find out about other safety measures by calling (800) 424-LEAD [(800) 4245323]. Ask for the brochure “Reducing Lead Hazards when Remodeling Your Home.”
This brochure explains what to do before, during, and after renovations.
What is the source of lead in water?
The source of lead in water is most likely to be lead in water pipes, lead solder used on
copper pipes, and some brass plumbing fixtures. Lead pipes are generally found only in
homes built before 1930. The use of lead-based solder in plumbing applications in
homes and buildings was banned in 1988. However, many homes built prior to 1988
may contain plumbing systems that use lead solder. The levels of lead in water from
these homes are likely to be highest during the first five years after construction. After
five years there can be sufficient mineral deposit, except where the water is soft, to form
a coating inside the pipe; this coating prevents the lead from dissolving. However,
recently, new chemical agents being used in some water systems have been
associated with increased corrosion and have resulted in increased levels of lead in
water.
How can lead levels in water be determined?
If you suspect lead contamination in drinking water, you may submit water samples to a
laboratory certified by the CDPH. For a list of certified laboratories, see Publications at
the end of this chapter. Consult with the laboratory on the proper procedures for sample
taking. Information on the possibility of lead contamination in your municipal water
supply may be obtained from the water utility serving your area.
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How can levels of lead in water be reduced?
Lead levels in water can be reduced by removing lead piping or lead solder, by installing
a home treatment system certified by the CDPH, or regularly flushing each tap before
consuming the water. Another alternative for homeowners is to purchase bottled water.
A detailed discussion of home treatment systems is presented in, “Consumers Guide to
California Drinking Water” (see Publications).
Where there are elevated lead levels in water, homeowners who choose not to install a
treatment system, or use bottled drinking water, should flush each tap before the water
is consumed. Water which has been standing in the water pipes for more than six hours
should be flushed from the tap until the temperature changes, and then, for about 15
seconds more. Because lead is more soluble in hot water, the homeowner should not
drink or prepare food using hot water from the tap. The flushed water should be saved
and used for other purposes, such as washing clothes or watering plants.
What are my responsibilities if I am selling, renting, or remodeling a home
built before 1978?
If you are planning to buy, rent, or renovate a home built before 1978, federal law
requires sellers, landlords, and remodelers to disclose certain information prior to
finalizing contracts.
Landlords must:
• Disclose known information on lead-based paint hazards.
• Give you a lead hazard pamphlet before leases take effect. Leases must also
include a federal form about lead-based paint.
Sellers must:
• Disclose known information on lead-based paint hazards.
• Give you a lead hazard pamphlet before selling a house. Sales contracts must
also include a federal form about lead-based paint. Buyers have up to 10 days to
check for lead hazards.
Renovators must:
• Give you a lead hazard pamphlet before starting to work.
If you want more information on these requirements, call the National Lead Information
Clearinghouse at (800)
424-LEAD [(800) 424-5323].
Hotlines:
For more information on lead in drinking water and information on federal regulations
about lead in drinking water, contact the U.S. EPA Safe Drinking Water Hotline in
Washington, D.C. at:
Telephone: (800) 426-4791
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For information on how to protect children from lead poisoning, contact The National
Lead Information Center at:
Telephone: (800) Lead-FYI [(800) 532-3394]
For other information on lead hazards, call The National Lead Information Center
Clearinghouse at:
Telephone: (800) 424-LEAD [(800) 424-5323]
To request information on lead in consumer products, or to report an unsafe consumer
product or a product-related injury, contact the Consumer Product Safety Commission
at:
Telephone: (800) 638-2772
To request local lists of CDPH-certified inspectors or abatement workers, contact the
Lead-related Construction Hotline at:
Telephone: (800) 597-LEAD [(800) 597-5323] or visit the CDPH Web site at
www.cdph.ca.gov
To obtain additional information on lead poisoning, or a list of local county lead
programs, contact the CDPH Childhood Lead Poisoning Prevention Branch at:
Telephone: (510) 620-5600 or visit the CDPH Web site at
www.cdph.ca.gov/programs/CLPPB.
Publications:
List of Certified Laboratories to Perform Hazardous Waste Analysis
This free list is available from:
California Department of Health Services
Environmental Laboratory Accreditation Program
850 Marina Bay Parkway, Ste. G365/EHL
Richmond, CA 94804
Telephone: (510) 620-2800
Web: www.cdph.ca.gov/certlic/labs/Documents/ELAPLablist.xls
Guidelines for the Evaluation and Control of Lead-Based Paint Hazards in
Housing
This publication is available for $45.00 from:
Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD)
Information Services, HUD User
P.O. Box 6091
Rockville, MD 20849
Telephone: (800) 245-2691
Web: www.huduser.org
Lead in your Drinking Water
This publication is available from:
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January 2011
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
Public Information Center
1200 Pennsylvania Ave., N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20460
Telephone: (202) 272-0167
The Inside Story - A Guide to Indoor Air Quality
This free publication is available from:
Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse
P.O. Box 37133
Washington, D.C. 20013-7133
Telephone: (800) 438-4318
Web: www.epa.gov/iaq/
Consumers Guide to California Drinking Water
This publication is available for $4.00 (plus 5 percent shipping charge, and tax) from:
Local Government Commission
1414 K Street, Suite #250
Sacramento, CA 95814
Telephone: (916) 448-1198 x 307
Web: www.lgc.org
Lead Poisoning Prevention Wheel
This publication is available for $3.95 from:
Environmental Hazards Management Institute
10 New Market Road
P.O. Box 932
Durham, NH 03824
Telephone: (603) 868-1496
Note: Telephone numbers and prices were correct at the date of publication of this
booklet, but are subject to change.
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CHAPTER VII MOLD
What are molds?
Molds are simple, microscopic organisms present virtually everywhere, indoors and
outdoors. Molds, along with mushrooms and yeasts, are fungi and are needed to break
down dead material and recycle nutrients in the environment.
For molds to grow and reproduce, they need only a food source – any organic material,
such as leaves, wood, paper, or dirt – and moisture. Because molds grow by digesting
organic material, they gradually destroy whatever they grow on. Sometimes, new molds
grow on old mold colonies. Mold growth on surfaces can often be seen in the form of
discoloration, frequently green, gray, brown, or black but also white and other colors.
Molds release countless tiny, lightweight spores, which travel easily through the air.
How am I exposed to indoor molds?
Everyone is exposed to some mold on a daily basis without evident harm. There are
usually mold spores in the air inside homes. Most indoor mold spores come from
outdoors by blowing through open windows or being tracked into homes as dust on
shoes. Mold spores primarily cause health problems when they are present in large
numbers and people inhale high concentrations of spores in air This can occur when
there is active mold growth in a home, office, or school where people live or work.
People can also be exposed to mold by touching moldy materials and by eating
contaminated foods. Molds will grow and multiply whenever conditions are right, that is
when sufficient moisture is available and organic material is present. The most
important factor allowing mold to grow is dampness or moisture accumulation in the
home. The following are common sources of indoor moisture that may lead to mold
problems:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Flooding
Leaky roofs
Sprinkler spray hitting the house
Plumbing leaks
Overflow from sinks, showers, bathtubs, or sewers
Damp basement or crawl space
Steam from bathing, doing laundry, or cooking
Humidifier use
Wet clothes drying indoors or clothes dryers exhausting hot, humid air indoors
Warping floors and discoloration of walls and ceilings can be indications of moisture
problems. Condensation on windows or walls is also an important indication, but it can
sometimes be caused by an indoor combustion problem. Have fuel-burning appliances
routinely inspected by your local utility or a professional heating contractor.
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Should I be concerned about mold in my home?
Yes, if indoor mold growth is extensive, it can cause very high and persistent airborne
spore exposures. Persons exposed to high spore levels can become sensitized and
develop allergies to the mold or other health problems. Mold growth can also damage
your furnishings, such as carpets, sofas, and cabinets. Clothes and shoes in damp
closets can become soiled. In time, unchecked mold growth can cause serious damage
to the structure of your home.
What symptoms are commonly seen with mold exposure?
Exposure to large amounts of mold can cause health effects through inflammation,
allergic response, or, rarely, infection. Allergic reactions, often referred to as hay fever,
are the most common health problems reported following mold exposure. Typical
symptoms that mold-exposed persons report, alone or in combination, include:
•
•
•
•
•
•
Breathing problems, such as wheezing, difficulty breathing, and shortness of
breath
Nose or sinus congestion (stuffy feeling, sinus headache)
Eye irritation (burning, watery, or reddened eyes)
Dry, hacking cough
Nose or throat irritation (runny nose, sneezing, sore throat)
Skin rashes or red, itchy skin
Headaches, memory problems, mood swings, nosebleeds, body aches and pains, and
fevers are occasionally reported in mold cases, but their cause is not understood.
How much mold can make me sick?
For some people, encountering even a relatively small number of mold spores can
trigger an asthma attack or lead to other health problems. For other persons, symptoms
may occur only when exposure levels are much higher. Nonetheless, indoor mold
growth is unsanitary and undesirable. Basically, if you can see or smell mold inside your
home, take steps to identify and eliminate the excess moisture and to cleanup and
remove the mold.
Are some molds more hazardous than others?
Allergic persons have different levels of sensitivity to molds, both as to the amount and
the types that cause them to feel ill. In addition to being able to cause allergies, certain
types of molds, such as Stachybotrys chartarum, may produce compounds that have
toxic properties, which are called mycotoxins. Mycotoxins are not always produced, and
whether a mold produces mycotoxins while growing in a building depends on what the
mold is growing on as well as environmental conditions such as temperature, humidity,
and other unknown factors. When mycotoxins are present, they occur in both living and
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dead mold spores and may be present in materials into which mold has grown. While
Stachybotrys chartarum and some other types of molds are growing, a wet slime layer
covers the spores, preventing them from becoming airborne. However, when the mold
dies and dries up, air currents or physical handling can cause spores to become
airborne.
At present there is no readily available, inexpensive test to determine if a mold growing
in a building is producing toxins. A limited number of specialized laboratories can test
for mycotoxins in dust or building materials such as gypsum wallboard. These tests are
very expensive and the results are not helpful in determining if there is an additional
health risk from mycotoxins. There are also no blood or urine tests that a physician can
use to determine if an individual has been exposed to the spores of a toxin-producing
fungus or its mycotoxins.
How can I tell if I have mold in my house?
You may suspect that you have mold if you see discolored patches or cottony or
speckled growth on walls or furniture or if you smell an earthy or musty odor. You also
may suspect mold contamination if mold-allergic individuals experience some of the
symptoms listed earlier when in the house. Evidence of past or ongoing water damage
should also trigger a more thorough inspection. You may find mold growth underneath
water-damaged surfaces or behind walls, floors, or ceilings.
Should I test my home for mold?
The California Department of Public Health (CDPH) does not recommend testing as a
first step to determine if you have a mold problem. Reliable air testing for mold can be
expensive and requires experience and equipment that is not available to most people.
Owners of individual private homes and apartments generally will need to pay a
contractor to do such testing, because insurance companies and public health agencies
seldom provide this service. Mold inspection and cleanup is usually considered a
housekeeping task that is the responsibility of the homeowner or landlord, as are roof
and plumbing repairs, house cleaning, and yard maintenance.
Another reason the CDPH does not recommend testing for mold is that there are few
available standards for judging what is an acceptable amount of mold. In all locations,
there is some level of airborne mold outdoors. If air testing is carried out in a home, an
outdoor air sample also must be collected at the same time, to allow comparison of
indoor and outdoor spore types and numbers. Because some people are much more
sensitive to mold spores than are other people, mold testing is at best a general guide.
The simplest way to deal with a suspicion of mold contamination is, if you can see or
smell mold, you likely have a problem and should take the steps outlined below. Mold
growth is likely to recur unless the source of moisture that is allowing mold to grow is
removed and the contaminated area is cleaned.
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
Assessing the Size of a Mold Contamination Problem
There will be a significant difference in the cleaning recommendations for a small mold
problem – total area of visible mold growth is less than 10 square feet – and a large
mold problem – more than 100 square feet. In the case of a relatively small area, the
homeowner using personal protective equipment, such as a dust mask, safety goggles,
and household gloves, can handle the cleanup. However, for larger areas, choose an
experienced, professional contractor.
General Cleanup Procedures
•
•
•
•
Find and remove sources of moisture
Find and determine the extent and area of visible mold growth
Clean and dry moldy areas – do not allow dust from the moldy areas to get into
the rest of the home
Bag and dispose of all material that may have moldy residues, such as rags,
paper, leaves, and debris
Clean up should begin after the moisture source is fixed and excess water has been
removed. Wear gloves when handling moldy materials. Spores are more easily
released when moldy materials dry out, so it is advisable to remove moldy items
as soon as possible. Detailed cleanup procedures are available in the California
Department of Health Services Indoor Air Quality Section fact sheet entitled, “Mold in
My Home: What Do I Do?” It is available on the Internet at
www.cdph.ca.gov/programs/IAQ/Documents/MIMH 2006-06 2009-03rev6p.doc or by
calling (510) 620-2874.
How can I prevent indoor mold problems in my home?
Inspect your home regularly for signs and sources of indoor moisture and mold. Take
steps to eliminate sources of water as quickly as possible. If a leak or flooding occurs, it
is essential to act quickly so that wet materials can dry within 48 hours:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Stop the source of the leak or flooding.
Remove excess water with mops or wet vacuum.
Move wet items to a dry, well-ventilated area. Move rugs and pull up wet carpet
as soon as possible.
Open closet and cabinet doors and move furniture away from walls to increase
circulation.
Run portable fans to increase air circulation. Do NOT use the home’s central
blower if flooding has occurred in it or in any of the ducts. Do NOT use fans if
mold may have already started to grow, or if it has been more than 48 hours
since the flooding.
Run dehumidifiers and window air conditioners to lower humidity.
Do NOT turn up the heat or use heaters in confined areas, as higher
temperatures may increase the rate of mold growth.
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
Page 34 of 48
January 2011
•
If water has soaked inside the walls, it may be necessary to open wall cavities by
removing the baseboards and drilling a hole through the bottom of the wet wall,
or by prying away wall paneling.
Publications:
Mold in My Home: What Do I Do?
This free document is available from:
California Department of Public Health
Indoor Air Quality Section
850 Marina Bay Parkway, G365 EHLB
Richmond, CA 94804
Telephone: (510) 620-2874
Web: www.cdph.ca.gov/programs/IAQ/Documents/MIMH 2006-06 2009-03rev6p.doc
Numerous mold-related articles
and documents are available from:
California Department of Public Health
Environmental Health Investigation Branch
850 Marina Bay Parkway
Building P, 3rd floor
Richmond, CA 94804-6403
Web: www.ehib.org/search.jsp?ss=mold&google=on
Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings
A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home
These free documents are available from:
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
IAQ Information Clearinghouse
Telephone: (800) 438-4318
Web: www.epa.gov/mold/moldresources.html
Repairing Your Flooded Home
This free publication is available from:
American Red Cross
8928 Volunteer Lane, Sacramento, CA 95826
Telephone: (916) 368-3131
Web: www.redcross.org
For local assistance, contact your county or city Department of Health, Housing, or
Environmental Health. Phone numbers for these agencies are located in the blue
government pages at the front of your local telephone directory.
Note: Telephone numbers and prices were correct at the date of publication of this
booklet, but are subject to change.
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
CHAPTER VIII RADON
What is radon?
Radon is a naturally occurring colorless, tasteless, and odorless radioactive gas that
comes from the decay of uranium found in nearly all soils. It enters buildings from the
ground through cracks and openings in concrete slabs, crawl spaces, floor drains,
sumps, and the many tiny pores in hollow-wall concrete blocks. When the pressure
within a home is lowered, more radon can be drawn from the soil and enter the home.
Indoor air pressure may be lower during colder months when heated air rises from the
floor level to the ceiling or second story level in the house. Indoor pressure may also be
lowered in tightly sealed houses through use of exhaust fans such as those in many
kitchens and bathrooms.
Once inside a building, radon can become trapped. Unless the building is properly
ventilated to remove it, the gas can become a health hazard.
Where is radon found?
Radon is typically present in rocks containing uranium such as certain granites and
shales. The amount of radon that can enter soils and groundwater depends on the
concentrations of uranium in the underlying rock. Radon can also be found in the air at
very low concentrations.
If radon is present in tap water, it can be released when water is used indoors for
showering, washing dishes, or washing clothes. Radon is of most concern when water
is obtained directly from a well that draws water from a source exposed to uranium and
radium. Most of the radon in water obtained from a surface source, such as a reservoir
or well water stored in an open tank, has been released before it reaches the home.
Building materials are not a significant source of radon except where they incorporate
rocks rich in radium or uranium such as granite and shales.
Why is radon harmful?
Long-term exposure to elevated levels of radon can increase your risk of getting lung
cancer. Tobacco smokers are at an even greater risk. Radon levels vary throughout the
country. The amount of radon entering homes varies from home to home. Because
radon is colorless, odorless, and tasteless, testing is the only way to find out if you and
your family are at risk from it.
Exposure to radon does not result in any immediate symptoms. For example, it does not
result in acute respiratory effects such as colds or allergies. Any cancer resulting from
inhaling radon is not likely to arise for at least 20-30 years after exposure begins, and
both the level of exposure and duration of exposure are factors which determine the risk
of developing lung cancer.
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January 2011
Where are the highest levels of radon in the home?
Generally, the living area closest to the soil surface has the highest level of radon.
Upper stories have lower levels of radon. Consequently, radon is rarely a concern in
high rise apartment buildings, other than at ground level.
Do adjacent houses have similar levels of radon?
Because the amount of uranium and radium in the soil varies, and because houses are
constructed and used in different ways, houses in the same neighborhood will have
different radon levels.
Is there a safe level of radon?
We know that the greater the exposure to radon, the greater the risk of developing lung
cancer. But we do not know if there is a radon level that is harmless. Both the duration
of exposure and the level of radon in the air are
important in determining the risk of developing lung cancer. Smoking may be a large
contributing factor to lung disease associated with radon exposure. Currently, the
California Department of Public Health (CDPH) recommends that you take action to
reduce radon levels in your house if the annual average indoor air concentration
exceeds 4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L).
How can radon levels be measured?
Several types of passive radon detectors or active devices can measure the level of
radon in a house. Passive detectors are devices left in place for a period of time that
require no ongoing activity or power. To obtain accurate results, the homeowner should
carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Although short-term measurements of
radon levels are more convenient, health risk can be more accurately determined from
measurements made over a year. Active devices require a source of power and are
used by professional radon testers to monitor radon levels. These devices are usually
used during real estate transactions.
Where can I get a radon detector?
The CDPH Radon Program is now offering short term test kits for $7.00 for California
residents. CDPH has contracted with Alpha Energy Laboratories (DrHomeAir) to
provide this service. The test kit can be ordered on-line at www.drhomeair.com/ . The
CDPH Radon Program maintains lists of currently certified testers, mitigators and
laboratories at
www.cdph.ca.gov/HealthInfo/environhealth/Pages/RadonServiceProviders.aspx This list
of certified radon providers can also be obtained by calling the CDPH Radon Program
Hotline at (800) 745-7236.
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
What must be done to reduce indoor radon levels?
The U.S. EPA and CDPH recommend that homeowners attempt to reduce radon levels
in any home that has an annual average level of radon at or above 4 pCi/L. The
mitigation method chosen will depend on the construction of the house, extent of radon
reduction required, and cost. After installing a mitigation system, we recommend that
radon levels be monitored at regular intervals to make sure the mitigation is working.
A qualified contractor should install the radon mitigation system unless the homeowner
fully understands the principles of the mitigation system.
When should water be tested for radon?
When a test shows that indoor levels of radon are at or above 4 picocures per liter,
homeowners should also consider a water test. If the water comes from a water system,
information about the source of the water and any radon tests done on it can be
obtained from the company supplying the water. For information or assistance with
interpreting test results, contact the CDPH Division of Drinking Water and
Environmental Management (see Appendix A) at .
www.cdph.ca.gov/programs/Pages/DDWEM.aspx .
The radon concentration of water from a private well can be measured by having a
sample analyzed at a laboratory certified to test for radon in water. Homeowners should
consult the CDPH radon program at (916) 449-5674 for guidance on the type of water
analysis appropriate to the area and well type. The method of sample collection is
critical. To get a list of certified laboratories, call the CDPH at (800) 745-7236 or visit
their website at
www.cdph.ca.gov/HealthInfo/environhealth/Pages/RadonServiceProviders.aspx .
How can levels of radon in water be reduced?
Radon levels in water can be reduced by 99 percent by the installation of a granular
activated carbon unit (GAC) on the water line entering the house. GAC units should be
certified by the CDPH. As radon accumulates and decays in the GAC unit, the unit itself
becomes radioactive. Therefore, these units must be shielded or located away from the
house to protect occupants from radiation. The GAC filters also require special handling
during replacement and disposal. Aeration may also remove radon from water. This
technique may be more costly but avoids the problem of radiation build up. Selection of
the proper water treatment technology depends primarily upon its removal efficiency
(other contaminants in the water may adversely affect this), safety, initial costs, and
operating and maintenance costs. Therefore, professional guidance is strongly advised.
Does the law require mitigation?
Mitigation of radon is not required by law and is at the discretion of the homeowner.
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
Hotlines:
For information on how to purchase a radon detector, how to find someone to test your
home, or for informational publications on radon, call the CDPH Radon Program Hotline
at: (800) 745-7236 or visit their website at
www.cdph.ca.gov/HealthInfo/environhealth/Pages/Radon.aspx
For specific assistance, call the CDPH Radon Program at: (916) 449-5674
Publications:
List of Certified Providers of Radon Services
This publication is available by calling CDPH Radon Program Hotline at (800) 745-7457236 or at
www.cdph.ca.gov/HealthInfo/environhealth/Pages/RadonServiceProviders.aspx
California Department of Public Health
Indoor Radon Program
1616 Capitol Avenue, 2nd Floor
P.O. Box 997413
Sacramento, CA 95899-7413
Telephone: (800) 745-7236
Web: www.cdph.ca.gov/HealthInfo/environhealth/Pages/Radon.aspx
Radon in California
A Citizen’s Guide to Radon
Homebuyers and Sellers Guide to Radon
The Inside Story - A Guide to Indoor Air Quality
How to Reduce Radon Levels in your Home
Model Standards for Radon in New Residential Buildings
These free publications are available from:
U.S. EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse
P.O. Box 37133
Washington, D.C. 20013-7133
Telephone: (800) 438-4318
Fax: (202) 484-1510
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.epa.gov/iaq/
Note: Telephone numbers and prices were correct at the date of publication of this
booklet, but are subject to change.
Federal Agencies
U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development
(HUD)
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
Office of Lead Hazard Control
451 7th Street S.W., Room B133
Washington, D.C. 20410
Telephone: (202) 755-1785
Web: www.hud.gov
HUD helps people build and maintain communities of
opportunity.
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (U.S. EPA)
Public Information Center
1200 Pennsylvania Ave., N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20460
Telephone: (202) 272-0167
Web: www.epa.gov
The U.S. EPA is a regulatory agency responsible for
implementing federal laws designed to protect our air,
water, and land from past and future environmental
hazards.
State Agencies
California Air Resources Board
Research Division
Indoor Exposure Assessment Section
1001 I Street
P.O. Box 2815
Sacramento, CA 95814
Telephone: (916) 322-8282
Web: www.arb.ca.gov
California Contractor's State License Board
9821 Business Park Drive
P.O. Box 26000
Sacramento, CA 95827
Telephone: (800) 321-2752
Web: www.contractorslicense.com
This board is responsible for licensing contractors, including
asbestos abatement.
California Department of Industrial Relations
Division of Occupational Safety and Health (Cal/
OSHA)
Asbestos Consultant Certification Unit
2211 Park Towne Circle, #1
Sacramento, CA 95825
Telephone: (916) 574-2993
Web: www.dir.ca.gov
Cal/OSHA is the state equivalent to the Federal Occupational
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) and
regulates protection of workers.
California Department of Public Health
Call your local county health department listed in the
front of the white pages or, on the Internet, visit
www.cdph.ca.gov
California Department of Public Health
Environmental Management Branch, Radon Program
1616 Capital Avenue, 2nd Floor, MS 7405
P.O. Box 997413
Sacramento, CA 95899-7413
Telephone: (800) 745-7236
Web: www.cdph.ca.gov/HealthInfo/environhealth/Pages/Radon.aspx
This branch provides publications and information about
radon hazards.
California Department of Public Health
Environmental Lab Accreditation Program
850 Marina Bay Parkway
Building P, Third Floor
Richmond, CA 94804-6403
Telephone: (510) 620-5600
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January 2011
APPENDIX A List of Federal and State Agencies
Contact information provided was correct as of the date of publication, but is subject to
change.
This office may provide information about test procedures
for analyzing environmental pollutants.
California Department of Public Health
Division of Drinking Water and Environmental
Management
Drinking Water Technical Program Branch
Sacramento Headquarters
1616 Capital Avenue, MS 7400
P.O. Box 997413
Sacramento, CA 95899-7413
Telephone: (916) 449-5600
This division collects and evaluates water quality information
on drinking water in California and supervises the
activities of all public water systems. It also provides
assistance to local health departments, water purveyors, and
the general public on issues related to water quality, water
supply, and water treatment:
Northern California Section
Sacramento District
8455 Jackson Road, Room 120
Sacramento, CA 95826
Telephone: (916) 229-3126
Lassen, Valley, Klamath & Shasta Districts
415 Knollcrest Drive, Suite 110
Redding, CA 96002
Telephone: (916) 224-4800
North Coastal Section
San Francisco & Santa Clara Districts
2151 Berkeley Way, Room 458
Berkeley, CA 94704
Telephone: (510) 540-2158
Mendocino & Sonoma Districts
50 D Street, Suite 200
Santa Rosa, CA 95404-4752
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January 2011
Telephone: (707) 576-2145
Monterey District
1 Lower Ragsdale, Bldg. 1, Suite 120
Monterey, CA 93940
Telephone: (831) 655-6939
Central California Section
Merced & Visalia Districts
1040 East Herndon Avenue, Suite 205
Fresno, CA 93720-3158
Telephone: (559) 447-3300
Stockton District
31 E. Channel Street, Room 270
Stockton, CA 95202
Telephone: (209) 948-7696
Tehachapi District
1200 Discovery Drive, Suite 100
Bakersfield, CA 993309
Telephone: (661) 335-7315
Southern California Section
Los Angeles District & Metropolitan Districts
1449 W. Temple Street, Room 202
Los Angeles, CA 90026
Telephone: (213) 580-5723
Santa Barbara District
1180 Eugenia Place, Suite 200
Carpinteria, CA 93013
Telephone: (805) 566-1326
South Coastal Section
San Bernardino District
464 West 4th Street, #437
San Bernardino, CA 92401
Telephone: (909) 383-4328
San Diego & Riverside Districts
1350 Front Street, Room 2050
San Diego, CA 92101
Telephone: (619) 525-4159
Santa Ana District
28 Civic Center Plaza, Room 325
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January 2011
Santa Ana, CA 92701
Telephone: (714) 558-4410California
Department of Toxic Substances
Control
1001 I Street
P.O. Box 806
Sacramento, CA 95812-0806
Telephone: (916) 324-1826
Web: www.dtsc.ca.gov
DTSC issues permits for treatment, storage, and
disposal of hazardous wastes; inspects facilities; maintains
a Superfund list; and has a site cleanup program.
Northern California Regional Offices
Sacramento Office
8800 Cal Center Drive
Sacramento, CA 95826-3268
Telephone: (916) 255-3618
Clovis Office
1515 Tollhouse Road
Clovis, CA 93611-0522
Telephone: (559) 297-3901
Berkeley Office
700 Heinz Avenue, Suite #200
Berkeley, CA 94710-2721
Telephone: (510) 540-2122
Southern California Regional Offices
Chatsworth Office
9211 Oakdale Avenue
Chatsworth, CA 91311-6505
Phone: (818) 717-6500
Cypress Office
5796 Corporate Avenue
Cypress, CA 90630-4732
Telephone: (714) 484-5300
San Diego Office
9174 Skypark Court, Suite 150
San Diego, CA 92123
Telephone: (858) 637-5531
California Department of Housing and Community
Development
Division of Administration - Manufactured Housing
1800 Third Street, Room 260
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January 2011
P.O. Box 31
Sacramento, CA 95814
Telephone: (916) 445-3338
Administration of codes and statutes relating to mobile
homes. It also allocates grants and loans for low-income
housing, house rehabilitation, and disaster relief.
California Department of Real Estate (DRE)
Fresno District Office
Department of Real Estate
2550 Mariposa, Room 3070
Fresno, CA 93721-2273
Telephone: (559) 445-6153
Oakland District Office
Department of Real Estate
1515 Clay Street, Room 702
Oakland, CA 94612-1462
Telephone: (510) 622-2552
Los Angeles Executive Office
Department of Real Estate
320 W. 4th Street, Suite 350
Los Angeles, CA 90013-1150
Telephone: (213) 620-2072
San Diego District Office
Department of Real Estate
1350 Front Street, Room 3064
San Diego, CA 92101-3687
Telephone: (619) 525-4375
Sacramento Principal Office
Department of Real Estate
2201 Broadway
P.O. Box 187000
Sacramento, CA 95818-7000
Telephone: (916) 227-0864
This unit provides information on lead toxicity and
treatment of lead toxicity in children.
Residential Environmental Hazards Booklet
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January 2011
APPENDIX B Glossary
AERATION: A technique by which air is introduced into a liquid; bubbles and aerosols
are generated and dissolved gases released. For example, water aerated by passing
through a shower head will release dissolved radon gas.
ACTIVATED CARBON: A material made from burnt wood which is used to remove
organic solutes, such as pesticides, and some inorganic solutes, such as chlorine, from
water. Dissolved organic solutes are removed from the water by absorption onto the
activated carbon. The activated carbon must be periodically replaced when it becomes
saturated and unable to adsorb any more solute. Activated carbon is not effective in
removing heavy metals, such as lead, and salts, which make water hard.
ANNUAL AVERAGE LEVEL: The average of measurements taken at different times
over the period of one year or the level measured by a device left in place for a full year.
CARCINOGEN: A substance that causes cancer.
CATHODE RAY TUBE: The cathode ray tube, or CRT, is the display device used in
most computer displays, video monitors, and televisions.
CERTIFIED LABORATORY: A laboratory that has demonstrated that it can meet the
federal and state standards for accuracy and precision for a given analytical procedure.
DISTILLATION: As referenced in this booklet, distillation is a technique used to purify
water by removal of inorganic contaminants such as salts through heating the solution
and condensing the steam. The resultant distilled water has a reduced salt
concentration. Distillation is not effective in removing pesticides and volatile organic
contaminants such as chloroform and benzene.
EXPOSURE: Contact with an agent through inhalation, ingestion, or touching. For
example, exposure to radon is primarily through inhalation; exposure to lead is primarily
through ingestion.
FILTRATION: Purification of water by removing undissolved solids or sediment by
passing the water through a filter or sieve. Filtration does not remove dissolved salts or
organic contaminants.
FRIABLE: Easily crumbled, pulverized, or reduced to a powder by hand.
LEVEL: Another term for concentration; also, the amount of a substance in a given
volume of air, liquid or solid.
LITER: Metric unit of volume equivalent to 1.057 quarts of liquid. One gallon is
equivalent to about four liters.
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January 2011
MILLIGRAM: A unit of weight. There are 1,000 milligrams in one gram and about 28
grams in one ounce.
MITIGATION: Mitigation means any action taken to reduce or eliminate the risk to
human health and the environment from hazardous waste.
PARTS PER MILLION: A unit of concentration. For example, air that contains 1 part per
million formaldehyde contains 1.2 milligrams formaldehyde in 1 million milliliters air, i.e.
1,000 liters air. Also, water which contains 1 part per million lead contains 1 milligram
lead in 1 million milligrams water, i.e., 1 kilogram water. One part per million can be
compared to one cent in ten thousand dollars.
PASSIVE DETECTOR: A measuring device that functions without any energy input or
ongoing attention from the user. For example, use of a passive radon detector to
measure radon requires only that the detector be left in place for a specified time.
PICOCURIE: A unit of amount used in measurement of radioactive substances. For
example, five picocuries of radon are five trillionths of a curie and are equivalent to 11
radioactive radon atoms decaying every minute.
RADIOACTIVE: A term used to describe atoms that are unstable and break down or
decay to form another kind of atom. For example, radium breaks down to form radon. In
the process of decay some high-energy particles are emitted. The detection of these
particles by special instruments indicates that a substance is radioactive. The highenergy particles and gamma rays are called radiation.
REACTIVE: A solid waste that is normally unstable, reacts violently with water, or
generates toxic gases when exposed to water or other materials.
REVERSE OSMOSIS: A technology used to purify water by removing the salts from
water. Osmosis involves the diffusion of water from a dilute to a concentrated solution
across a semi-permeable membrane that allows only the passage of water. In reverse
osmosis, water is forced through a semi-permeable membrane from a concentrated
solution to a stream of purified water. For example, in the desalination of seawater,
reverse osmosis is used to separate the salts from the water generating drinking water
and a residue of salts.
RISK: In the context of this booklet, risk indicates the chance of developing a disease
after exposure to an environmental hazard. Risk depends on the time period for which a
person is exposed to a particular hazard and the level of the hazard.
SOFT WATER: Water that does not contain large amounts of dissolved minerals such
as salts containing calcium or magnesium.
SOLDER: A metallic compound used to seal joints between pipes. Until recently, most
solder contained about 50 percent lead. Lead solder is now banned for plumbing
applications.
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January 2011
TOXICITY: The extent to which a material is toxic.
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January 2011
Protect
Your
Family
From
Lead in
Your
Home
United States
Environmental
Protection Agency
United States
Consumer Product
Safety Commission
United States
Department of Housing
and Urban Development
SeptSeptember 2013
Are You Planning to Buy or Rent a Home Built
Before 1978?
Did you know that many homes built before 1978 have lead-based
paint? Lead from paint, chips, and dust can pose serious health
hazards.
Read this entire brochure to learn:
• How lead gets into the body
• bout health e ects of lead
• hat you can do to protect your family
• here to go for more information
Before renting or buying a pre-1978 home or apartment, federal
law requires:
• ellers must disclose known information on lead-based paint or leadbased paint hazards before selling a house.
• eal estate sales contracts must include a speci c warning statement
about lead-based paint. uyers have up to 10 days to check for lead.
• andlords must disclose known information on lead-based paint
and lead-based paint hazards before leases take e ect. eases must
include a speci c warning statement about lead-based paint.
If undertaking renovations, repairs, or painting (RRP) projects in
your pre-1978 home or apartment:
• ead
s pamphlet, The Lead-Safe Certified Guide to Renovate Right,
to learn about the lead-safe work practices that contractors are
required to follow when working in your home (see page 12).
Simple Steps to Protect Your Family
from Lead Hazards
If you think your home has lead-based paint:
• Don t try to remove lead-based paint yourself.
•
lways keep painted surfaces in good condition to minimize
deterioration.
•
et your home checked for lead hazards. ind a certi ed
inspector or risk assessor at epa.gov/lead.
• alk to your landlord about xing surfaces with peeling or
chipping paint.
• egularly clean oors, window sills, and other surfaces.
• ake precautions to avoid exposure to lead dust when
remodeling.
•
hen renovating, repairing, or painting, hire only
approved ead- afe certi ed renovation rms.
- or state-
• efore buying, renting, or renovating your home, have it
checked for lead-based paint.
• onsult your health care provider about testing your children
for lead. Your pediatrician can check for lead with a simple
blood test.
•
ash children s hands, bottles, paci ers, and toys often.
•
ake sure children avoid fatty (or high fat) foods and eat
nutritious meals high in iron and calcium.
• emove shoes or wipe soil o shoes before entering your
house.
1
Lead Gets into the Body in Many Ways
Adults and children can get lead into their bodies if they:
• reathe in lead dust (especially during activities such as renovations,
repairs, or painting that disturb painted surfaces).
• wallow lead dust that has settled on food, food preparation surfaces,
and other places.
• at paint chips or soil that contains lead.
Lead is especially dangerous to children under the age of 6.
•
t this age, children s brains
and nervous systems are
more sensitive to the
damaging e ects of lead.
•
hildren s growing bodies
absorb more lead.
• abies and young children
often put their hands
and other objects in their
mouths. hese ob ects can
have lead dust on them.
Women of childbearing age should know that lead is dangerous to
a developing fetus.
•
omen with a high lead level in their system before or during
pregnancy risk exposing the fetus to lead through the placenta
during fetal development.
2
Health Effects of Lead
Lead affects the body in many ways. It is important to know that
even exposure to low levels of lead can severely harm children.
In children, exposure to lead can cause:
•
ervous system and kidney damage
• earning disabilities, attention de cit
disorder, and decreased intelligence
• peech, language, and behavior
problems
• oor muscle coordination
• Decreased muscle and bone growth
• Hearing damage
hile low-lead exposure is most common,
exposure to high amounts of lead can have
devastating e ects on children, including
seizures, unconsciousness, and, in some cases, death.
lthough children are especially susceptible to lead exposure, lead can
be dangerous for adults, too.
In adults, exposure to lead can cause:
• Harm to a developing fetus
• ncreased chance of high blood pressure during pregnancy
• ertility problems (in men and women)
• High blood pressure
• Digestive problems
3
•
erve disorders
•
emory and concentration problems
•
uscle and oint pain
Check Your Family for Lead
Get your children and home tested if you think your home has
lead.
hildren s blood lead levels tend to increase rapidly from 6 to 1
months of age, and tend to peak at 18 to 24 months of age.
Consult your doctor for advice on testing your children. A simple blood
test can detect lead. lood lead tests are usually recommended for
•
hildren at ages 1 and
•
hildren or other family members who have been exposed to high
levels of lead
•
hildren who should be tested under your state or local health
screening plan
Your doctor can explain what the test results mean and if more
testing will be needed.
4
Where Lead-Based Paint Is Found
In general, the older your home or childcare facility, the more likely it
has lead-based paint.1
Many homes, including private, federally-assisted, federallyowned housing, and childcare facilities built before 1978 have
lead-based paint. In 1978, the federal government banned consumer
uses of lead-containing paint.2
earn how to determine if paint is lead-based paint on page 7.
Lead can be found:
• n homes and childcare facilities in the city, country, or suburbs,
• n private and public single-family homes and apartments,
•
n surfaces inside and outside of the house, and
• n soil around a home. ( oil can pick up lead from exterior paint or
other sources, such as past use of leaded gas in cars.)
Learn more about where lead is found at epa.gov/lead.
5
1
ead-based paint is currently de ned by the federal government as paint with
lead levels greater than or equal to 1.0 milligram per square centimeter (mg/cm), or
more than 0.5% by weight.
2
ead-containing paint is currently de ned by the federal government as lead in new
dried paint in excess of 90 parts per million (ppm) by weight.
Identifying Lead-Based Paint and Lead-Based Paint
Hazards
Deteriorating lead-based paint (peeling, chipping, chalking,
cracking, or damaged paint) is a hazard and needs immediate
attention. Lead-based paint may also be a hazard when found on
surfaces that children can chew or that get a lot of wear and tear, such
as
•
n windows and window sills
• Doors and door frames
• tairs, railings, banisters, and porches
Lead-based paint is usually not a hazard if it is in good condition
and if it is not on an impact or friction surface like a window.
Lead dust can form when lead-based paint is scraped, sanded, or
heated. Lead dust also forms when painted surfaces containing
lead bump or rub together. Lead paint chips and dust can get on
surfaces and objects that people touch. Settled lead dust can reenter
the air when the home is vacuumed or swept, or when people walk
through it.
currently de nes the following levels of lead in dust as
hazardous
• 0 micrograms per s uare foot ( g ft2) and higher for oors,
including carpeted oors
•
0 g ft2 and higher for interior window sills
Lead in soil can be a hazard when children play in bare soil or when
people bring soil into the house on their shoes.
currently de nes
the following levels of lead in soil as hazardous
• 00 parts per million (ppm) and higher in play areas of bare soil
• 1, 00 ppm (average) and higher in bare soil in the remainder of the
yard
Remember, lead from paint chips—which you can see—and lead
dust—which you may not be able to see—both can be hazards.
he only way to nd out if paint, dust, or soil lead hazards exist is to
test for them. he next page describes how to do this.
6
Checking Your Home for Lead
ou can get your home tested for lead in several di erent ways
•
lead-based paint inspection tells you if your home has leadbased paint and where it is located. t won t tell you whether your
home currently has lead hazards. trained and certi ed testing
professional, called a lead-based paint
inspector, will conduct a paint inspection
using methods, such as
• ortable x-ray uorescence (
) machine
• ab tests of paint samples
•
risk assessment tells you if your home
currently has any lead hazards from lead
in paint, dust, or soil. It also tells you what
actions to take to address any hazards. A
trained and certi ed testing professional,
called a risk assessor, will
• ample paint that is deteriorated on doors, windows, oors, stairs,
and walls
• ample dust near painted surfaces and sample bare soil in the
yard
•
•
et lab tests of paint, dust, and soil samples
combination inspection and risk assessment tells you if your home
has any lead-based paint and if your home has any lead hazards, and
where both are located.
e sure to read the report provided to you after your inspection or risk
assessment is completed, and ask questions about anything you do not
understand.
7
Checking Your Home for Lead, continued
n preparing for renovation, repair, or painting work in a pre-1978
home, ead- afe erti ed renovators (see page 1 ) may
• ake paint chip samples to determine if lead-based paint is
present in the area planned for renovation and send them to an
-recognized lead lab for analysis. n housing receiving federal
assistance, the person collecting these samples must be a certi ed
lead-based paint inspector or risk assessor
•
se
-recognized tests kits to determine if lead-based paint is
absent (but not in housing receiving federal assistance)
• resume that lead-based paint is present and use lead-safe work
practices
here are state and federal programs in place to ensure that testing is
done safely, reliably, and e ectively. ontact your state or local agency
for more information, visit epa.gov/lead, or call 1-800-424-LEAD
(5323) for a list of contacts in your area.3
3
Hearing- or speech-challenged individuals may access this number through
calling the ederal elay ervice at 1-800-877-8 99.
by
8
What You Can Do Now to Protect Your Family
If you suspect that your house has lead-based paint hazards, you
can take some immediate steps to reduce your family’s risk:
• f you rent, notify your landlord of peeling or chipping paint.
• eep painted surfaces clean and free of dust. lean oors, window
frames, window sills, and other surfaces weekly. Use a mop or sponge
with warm water and a general all-purpose cleaner. ( emember
never mix ammonia and bleach products together because they can
form a dangerous gas.)
• arefully clean up paint chips immediately without creating dust.
• horoughly rinse sponges and mop heads often during cleaning of
dirty or dusty areas, and again afterward.
•
ash your hands and your children s hands often, especially before
they eat and before nap time and bed time.
• eep play areas clean. ash bottles, paci ers, toys, and stu ed
animals regularly.
• eep children from chewing window sills or other painted surfaces, or
eating soil.
9
•
hen renovating, repairing, or painting, hire only
- or stateapproved ead- afe erti ed renovation rms (see page 1 ).
•
lean or remove shoes before entering your home to avoid tracking
in lead from soil.
•
ake sure children avoid fatty (or high fat) foods and eat nutritious
meals high in iron and calcium. Children with good diets absorb less
lead.
Reducing Lead Hazards
Disturbing lead-based paint or
removing lead improperly can
increase the hazard to your family by
spreading even more lead dust around
the house.
• n addition to day-to-day cleaning
and good nutrition, you can
temporarily reduce lead-based paint
hazards by taking actions, such as
repairing damaged painted surfaces
and planting grass to cover leadcontaminated soil. hese actions are
not permanent solutions and will need
ongoing attention.
• ou can minimize exposure to lead
when renovating, repairing, or painting by hiring an
- or statecerti ed renovator who is trained in the use of lead-safe work
practices. f you are a do-it-yourselfer, learn how to use lead safe
work practices in your home.
• o remove lead hazards permanently, you should hire a certi ed lead
abatement contractor. Abatement (or permanent hazard elimination)
methods include removing, sealing, or enclosing lead-based paint
with special materials. Just painting over the hazard with regular
paint is not permanent control.
Always use a certified contractor who is trained to address lead
hazards safely.
• Hire a ead- afe erti ed rm (see page 1 ) to perform renovation,
repair, or painting (
) pro ects that disturb painted surfaces.
• o correct lead hazards permanently, hire a certi ed lead abatement
professional. his will ensure your contractor knows how to work
safely and has the proper equipment to clean up thoroughly.
erti ed contractors will employ uali ed workers and follow strict
safety rules as set by their state or by the federal government.
10
Reducing Lead Hazards, continued
If your home has had lead abatement work done or if the housing is
receiving federal assistance, once the work is completed, dust cleanup
activities must be conducted until clearance testing indicates that lead
dust levels are below the following levels
• 0 micrograms per s uare foot ( g ft2) for oors, including carpeted
oors
•
0 g ft2 for interior windows sills
• 00 g ft2 for window troughs
or help in locating certi ed lead abatement professionals in your area,
call your state or local agency (see pages 14 and 15), or visit
epa.gov/lead, or call 1-800D.
11
Renovating, Remodeling, or Repairing (RRP) a Home
with Lead-Based Paint
If you hire a contractor to conduct renovation, repair, or painting
(RRP) projects in your pre-1978 home or childcare facility (such as
pre-school and kindergarten), your contractor must:
• e a ead- afe erti ed rm approved by
-authorized state program
•
or an
se uali ed trained individuals ( ead- afe
erti ed renovators) who follow speci c lead-safe
work practices to prevent lead contamination
• rovide a copy of
s lead hazard information
document, The Lead-Safe Certified Guide to
Renovate Right
RRP contractors working in pre-1978 homes and childcare facilities
must follow lead-safe work practices that:
• Contain the work area. he area must be contained so that dust and
debris do not escape from the work area. arning signs must be put
up, and plastic or other impermeable material and tape must be used.
• Avoid renovation methods that generate large amounts of
lead-contaminated dust. ome methods generate so much leadcontaminated dust that their use is prohibited. hey are
•
pen- ame burning or torching
• anding, grinding, planing, needle gunning, or blasting with
power tools and equipment not equipped with a shroud and
HEPA vacuum attachment and
•
sing a heat gun at temperatures greater than 1100
• Clean up thoroughly. he work area should be cleaned up daily.
hen all the work is done, the area must be cleaned up using special
cleaning methods.
• Dispose of waste properly. Collect and seal waste in a heavy duty
bag or sheeting. hen transported, ensure that waste is contained to
prevent release of dust and debris.
o learn more about
s re uirements for
pro ects visit
epa.gov/getleadsafe, or read The Lead-Safe Certified Guide to
Renovate Right.
12
Other Sources of Lead
While paint, dust, and soil are the most common sources of lead,
other lead sources also exist:
• Drinking water. Your home might have plumbing with lead or lead
solder. You cannot see, smell, or taste lead, and boiling your water will
not get rid of lead. f you think your plumbing might contain lead
•
se only cold water for drinking and cooking.
• un water for 1 to 0 seconds before drinking it, especially if
you have not used your water for a few hours.
all your local health department or water supplier to nd out
about testing your water, or visit epa.gov/lead for
s lead in
drinking water information.
• Lead smelters or other industries that release lead into the air.
• Your job. If you work with lead, you could bring it home on your body
or clothes. Shower and change clothes before coming home. Launder
your work clothes separately from the rest of your family s clothes.
• Hobbies that use lead, such as making pottery or stained glass,
or re nishing furniture. all your local health department for
information about hobbies that may use lead.
•
ld toys and furniture may have been painted with lead-containing
paint. lder toys and other children s products may have parts that
contain lead.4
• ood and li uids cooked or stored in lead crystal or lead-glazed
pottery or porcelain may contain lead.
• olk remedies, such as “greta” and “azarcon,” used to treat an upset
stomach.
4
13
n 1978, the federal government banned toys, other children s products, and furniture
with lead-containing paint (16
1 0 ). n 008, the federal government banned
lead in most children s products. he federal government currently bans lead in
excess of 100 ppm by weight in most children s products (76
6 ).
For More Information
The National Lead Information Center
Learn how to protect children from lead poisoning and get other
information about lead hazards on the eb at epa.gov/lead and
hud.gov/lead, or call 1-800-424-LEAD (5323).
EPA’s Safe Drinking Water Hotline
or information about lead in drinking water, call 1-800-426-4791, or
visit epa.gov/lead for information about lead in drinking water.
Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) Hotline
or information on lead in toys and other consumer products, or to
report an unsafe consumer product or a product-related in ury, call
1-800-638-2772, or visit
s website at cpsc.gov or
saferproducts.gov.
State and Local Health and Environmental Agencies
ome states, tribes, and cities have their own rules related to leadbased paint. Check with your local agency to see which laws apply
to you. ost agencies can also provide information on nding a lead
abatement rm in your area, and on possible sources of nancial aid
for reducing lead hazards. eceive up-to-date address and phone
information for your state or local contacts on the eb at epa.gov/lead,
or contact the ational ead nformation enter at 1-800-424-LEAD.
Hearing- or speech-challenged individuals may access any of the
phone numbers in this brochure through
by calling the tollfree ederal elay ervice at 1-800-877-8339.
14
U. S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)
Regional Offices
he mission of
is to protect human health and the environment.
our egional
ce can provide further information regarding
regulations and lead protection programs.
Region 1 ( onnecticut, assachusetts, aine,
ew Hampshire, hode sland, ermont)
Region 6 ( rkansas, ouisiana, ew
klahoma, exas, and 66 ribes)
egional ead ontact
. .
egion 1
ost
ce uare, uite 100,
oston,
0 109- 91
(888) 7 -7 1
egional ead ontact
. .
egion 6
1
oss venue, 1 th loor
Dallas, 7 0 - 7
( 1 ) 66 - 70
0 -
Region 2 ( ew ersey, ew ork, uerto ico,
irgin slands)
egional ead ontact
. .
egion
890 oodbridge venue
uilding 0 , ail top
dison, 088 7- 679
(7 ) 1-6671
Region 3 (Delaware, aryland, ennsylvania,
irginia, D , est irginia)
egional ead ontact
. .
egion
16 0 rch treet
Philadelphia, PA 19103
( 1 ) 81 - 088
Region 4 ( labama, lorida, eorgia,
entucky, ississippi, orth arolina, outh
arolina, ennessee)
egional ead ontact
. .
egion
ower, 1 th loor, ir, esticides
61 orsyth treet,
tlanta,
0 0
( 0 ) 6 -8998
Region 5 ( llinois, ndiana, ichigan,
innesota, hio, isconsin)
egional ead ontact
. .
egion (D -8 )
77 est ackson oulevard
hicago, 6060 - 666
( 1 ) 886-78 6
15
oxics
Region 7 ( owa, ansas,
exico,
issouri, ebraska)
egional ead ontact
. .
egion 7
11 01 enner lvd.
D
enexa, 66 19
(800)
-0
Region 8 ( olorado, ontana, orth
Dakota, outh Dakota, tah, yoming)
egional ead ontact
. .
egion 8
1 9
ynkoop t.
Denver,
80 0
( 0 ) 1 -6966
Region 9 (Arizona, California, Hawaii,
evada)
egional ead ontact
. .
egion 9 ( D- - )
75 Hawthorne Street
an rancisco,
9 10
( 1 ) 9 7- 80
Region 10 ( laska, daho, regon,
ashington)
egional ead ontact
. .
egion 10
olid aste oxics nit (
1 00 ixth venue, uite 900
eattle,
98101
( 06)
-1 00
-1 8)
Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)
he
protects the public against unreasonable risk of in ury
from consumer products through education, safety standards
activities, and enforcement. Contact CPSC for further information
regarding consumer product safety and regulations.
CPSC
0 ast est Highway
ethesda, D 081 1
1-800-6 8- 77
cpsc.gov or saferproducts.gov
U. S. Department of Housing and Urban
Development (HUD)
H D s mission is to create strong, sustainable, inclusive
communities and uality a ordable homes for all. ontact
H Ds
ce of Healthy Homes and ead Hazard ontrol for
further information regarding the ead afe Housing ule, which
protects families in pre-1978 assisted housing, and for the lead
hazard control and research grant programs.
HUD
1 eventh treet, , oom 8
ashington, D 0 10- 000
( 0 ) 0 -7698
hud.gov o ces lead/
6
his document is in the public domain. t may be produced by an individual or organization without
permission. nformation provided in this booklet is based upon current scienti c and technical
understanding of the issues presented and is re ective of the urisdictional boundaries established by
the statutes governing the co-authoring agencies. ollowing the advice given will not necessarily
provide complete protection in all situations or against all health hazards that can be caused by lead
exposure.
. .
ashington D 0 60
. .
ethesda D 081
. . H D ashington D 0 10
-7 7- -1 -001
September 2013
16
IMPORTANT!
Lead From Paint, Dust, and Soil in and
Around Your Home Can Be Dangerous if
Not Managed Properly
• Children under 6 years old are most at risk for lead
poisoning in your home.
• Lead exposure can harm young children and babies even
before they are born.
• Homes, schools, and child care facilities built before 1978
are likely to contain lead-based paint.
• Even children who seem healthy may have dangerous
levels of lead in their bodies.
• Disturbing surfaces with lead-based paint or removing
lead-based paint improperly can increase the danger to
your family.
• People can get lead into their bodies by breathing or
swallowing lead dust, or by eating soil or paint chips
containing lead.
• People have many options for reducing lead hazards.
Generally, lead-based paint that is in good condition is not
a hazard (see page 10).
2005 Edition
Before Earthquake
Homeowner’s
Guide to
Earthquake
Safety
Damage from magnitude 6.7 earthquake
Published by
The California
Seismic Safety
Commission
State of
California
Arnold
Schwarzenegger,
Governor
SSC No. 05-01
Additional damage from aftershocks
This 2005 Edition of the Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake
Safety replaces the 2002 Edition on July 1, 2005.
Publishing Information
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety was developed and
published by the California Seismic Safety Commission. The guide was
prepared for publication by the staff of The Collaborative for Disaster
Mitigation, San Jose State University, One Washington Square, San
Jose, CA 95192-0082. It was distributed under the provisions of the
Library Distribution Act and Government Code Section 11096.
Copyrighted 2005 by the California Seismic Safety Commission
All rights reserved
Legislation
This guide has been developed and adopted by the California Seismic
Safety Commission as required by Assembly Bill 2959, authored by
Assemblyman Johan Klehs (Chapter 1499, Statutes of 1990), and
Assembly Bill 200, authored by Assemblyman Dominic Cortese (Chapter
699, Statutes of 1991).
Ordering Information
Copies of this booklet are available from the California Seismic Safety
Commission, 1775 Creekside Oaks Drive, Suite 100, Sacramento, CA
95833. To order call (916) 263-5506 or download via our website at
http://www.seismic.ca.gov/sscpub.htm
On the cover:
Taken in Coalinga, California, the pictures of this single family home
show the destruction caused by the Coalinga Earthquake on May 2,
1983. The 6.7 magnitude earthquake inflicted severe damage to the
unreinforced masonry porch, forcing the occupants to evacuate.
Numerous aftershocks occurred within the next few days, causing
portions of the already weakened structure to collapse.
ii
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
CONTENTS
Page
INTRODUCTION.................................................1
Your Home and the Law..............................2
Recommendations..........................................3
Summary of Major California Laws.............4
Property Tax and Insurance........................5
Examples of Damage to Single Family
Homes...................................................6
Page
OTHER EARTHQUAKE-RELATED
CONCERNS......................................................28
Unreinforced Masonry Chimneys.............28
Foundations..........................................30
Homes with Unique Designs....................31
NATURAL GAS
SAFETY..............................................................32
EARTHQUAKE MAPS OF CALIFORNIA...........7
Damaging Earthquakes in California............7
Major Earthquake Faults in California..........8
Simplified Earthquake Shaking Potential Map
for California....................................9
GETTING THE WORK DONE..........................34
GEOLOGIC
HAZARDS..........................................................36
ADDITIONAL RESOURCES............................10
WHAT TO DO DURING AN
EARTHQUAKE WEAKNESSES......................11
Unbraced Water Heaters..........................12
Home Not Anchored to Foundation.........14
Weak Cripple Walls..................................16
Pier and Post Foundations........................18
Unreinforced Masonry Foundations..........20
Homes Built on Steep Hillsides.................22
Unreinforced Masonry Walls....................24
Rooms over Garages...............................26
EARTHQUAKE..............................................39
WHAT TO DO BEFORE AN
EARTHQUAKE..............................................40
WHAT TO DO AFTER AN
EARTHQUAKE..............................................42
RESOURCE ORGANIZATIONS......................44
RESIDENTIAL EARTHQUAKE HAZARDS
REPORT.............................................................47
SAMPLE TAX EXCLUSION FORM.................49
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
iii
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Seismic Safety Commission
Lucille M. Jones, Ph.D., Chair, Seismology
Hon. Richard Alarcon, State Senate
(Chris Modrzejewski)
Hon. Carol Liu, State Assembly
(Donald Manning)
Lawrence T. Klein, Utilities
Mark Church, Local Government
Linden Nishinaga, P.E., City Government
Celestine Palmer, Insurance
Andrew A. Adelman, P.E., Cities/Building
Official
Stan Moy, A.I.A., Architecture and Planning
Daniel Shapiro, S.E., Structural Engineering
Vacant, Mechanical Engineering
Bruce R. Clark, Ph.D., Geology
Vacant, County Government
Vacant, Emergency Services
Donald R. Parker, Vice Chairman, Fire
Protection
Jimmie R. Yee, Social Services
Vacant, Soils Engineering
Seismic Safety Commission Staff
Richard McCarthy, Executive Director
Robert Anderson
Karen Cogan
Henry Reyes
Henry Sepulveda
Fred Turner, Project Coordinator
Sue Celli
Rebecca Romo
Collaborative for Disaster Mitigation Staff
Guna Selvaduray, Ph.D., Executive Director
Patrick Chong, Webmaster
The Commission gratefully acknowledges
the assistance of the following:
American Red Cross
American Society of Home Inspectors
Association of Bay Area Governments
Building Education Center
California Association of Realtors
California Building Officials
California Council of the American Institute of
Architects
California Geological Survey
California Real Estate Inspection Association
California Governor’s Office of Emergency
Services
City of Los Angeles
Earthquake Engineering Research Institute
Humboldt Earthquake Education Center
International Code Council
SBC
San Diego Association of Governments
Southern California Association of Governments
Southern California Association of Residential
Retrofit Professions
Southern California Gas Company/Sempra
Structural Engineers Association of California
Committee on Earthquake Safety Issues for Gas
Systems
Disclaimer: The effects, descriptions, recommendations, and
suggestions included in this document are intended to improve
earthquake preparedness; however, they do not guarantee the
safety of an individual or a structure. The Seismic Safety
Commission takes responsibility for the inclusion of material in
this document. The State of California, the Seismic Safety
Commission, and all contributors to this document do not
assume liability for any injury, death, property damage, loss of
revenue, or any other effect of an earthquake.
Crystal Carrera, Administrative Assistant
iv
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
INTRODUCTION
Earthquakes, especially major ones, are
dangerous, inevitable, and a fact of life in
California. Sooner or later another “big one” will
occur.
Earthquakes:
Occur without warning
Can be deadly and extremely destructive
Can occur at any time
As a current or potential owner of a home*, you
should be very concerned about the potential
danger to not only yourselves and your loved ones,
but also to your property.
The major threats posed by earthquakes are bodily
injuries and property damage, which can be
considerable and even catastrophic.
Most of the property damage caused by
earthquakes ends up being handled and paid for
by the homeowner.
This Booklet is designed to assist you in filling out
the Residential Earthquake Hazards Report (See
page 47) when you sell your home.
This booklet is also a good start to begin
strengthening your home against earthquake
damage.
It describes:
Common weaknesses that can result in your
home being damaged by earthquakes, and
Steps you can take to correct these
weaknesses.
There are no guarantees of safety during
earthquakes, but properly constructed and
strengthened homes are far less likely to collapse
or be damaged during earthquakes. The California
Seismic Safety Commission advises you to act on
the suggestions outlined in this booklet and make
yourself, your family, and your home safer.
Earthquakes have caused over $55 billion in
losses in California since 1971.
Large earthquakes in or near major urban
centers in California will disrupt the local
economy and can disrupt the economy of the
entire State.
However, proper earthquake preparation of your
home can:
Save lives
Reduce injuries
Reduce property damage
As a homeowner, you can significantly reduce
damage to your home by fixing a number of known
and common weaknesses.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
*For the purpose of this document, “home” includes
single family residences, duplexes, triplexes, and
fourplexes.
1
YOUR HOME AND THE LAW
California State Law requires the
seller to:
Inform the buyer about known home
weaknesses (See Earthquake
Weaknesses, beginning on page 11).
Strap the water heater, reducing the
chance of it falling during an earthquake
and possibly causing gas and water lines to
break.
Deliver a copy of this booklet to the buyer if
the home was built before 1960 (Your real
estate agent is required to give the seller a
copy of this booklet).
Deliver to buyers a Natural Hazards
Disclosure form (See page 4). The
disclosure will tell buyers whether the home
is in an Earthquake Fault Zone or in a
Seismic Hazard Zone (See page 38)
This Booklet:
Describes the most common weaknesses
that can cause damage to homes, in the
event of an earthquake.
Enables the seller to meet the State Law
requiring this booklet be given to every
buyer of homes built before 1960.
Enables the seller to disclose to the buyer
the typical earthquake weaknesses in
homes built before 1960.
Provides the homeowner with basic
information about finding and fixing
earthquake-related weaknesses in the
home.
Provides general information about
earthquake risks and directions for finding
more information on earthquake safety.
Complete the Residential Earthquake
Hazards Report, to be provided to the
buyer (See page 47).
California State Law does not require
the seller to:
Hire someone to evaluate your home.
Strengthen your home before selling it.
2
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
RECOMMENDATIONS...
If You Are Selling
If You Are Buying
Before you sell your house, the following steps
are recommended:
Before you agree to buy a house, consider the
following recommendations:
If you list your house for sale through a real
estate broker or agent, give the agent the
completed disclosure form (See page 47)
as soon as practical. Your agent can give
the booklet and the form to the buyer for
you.
Have a certified home inspector, licensed
building contractor, architect, or engineer
inspect the house and give you an opinion
regarding existing earthquake weaknesses
and an estimate of costs to strengthen
these weaknesses.
You are not required to hire someone to
answer the questions on the disclosure
form.
You are not required to remove siding,
drywall, or plaster to answer the questions.
You are not required to fix the weaknesses
before you sell your home.
However, if you wish, you may get
assistance from a certified home inspector,
or a licensed contractor, architect, or
engineer.
Keep a copy of the form, signed by the
buyer, as evidence that you have complied
with the earthquake disclosure
requirement.
Consider the location of the home: Is it in or
near an Earthquake Fault Zone or in an
area where it might be damaged by a
landslide, liquefaction, or a tsunami? You
may wish to hire a licensed geotechnical
engineer and/or engineering geologist to
check the stability of the land under the
house.
Negotiate the cost of strengthening, if any
is required, with the seller. The law does
not require either you or the seller to
strengthen the home, but if these weaknesses are not fixed, you may find that
repair costs after a damaging earthquake
can amount to more than your equity in the
house.
You may find that you will get a better price for
your house if you strengthen earthquake
weaknesses before you sell.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
3
SUMMARY OF MAJOR CALIFORNIA LAWS
RELATED TO SEISMIC SAFETY
Full wording of all California codes is available at: http://www.leginfo.ca.gov.
Delivering this guide
Sellers of homes built before 1960, with one to four
units of conventional light-frame construction,
must deliver to the buyer, “as soon as practicable
before the transfer,” a copy of The Homeowner’s
Guide to Earthquake Safety (this booklet) and
disclose certain earthquake deficiencies according
to Government Code, Section 8897.1 to 8897.4.
The seller’s real estate agent must provide the
seller with a copy of this booklet to give to the
buyer. This is also specified in Government Code,
Section 8897.5.
Water heater bracing
All water heaters are required to be anchored or
strapped to resist falling during an earthquake.
The seller must certify to the potential buyer that
the water heater is properly braced in accordance
with Health and Safety Code, Section 19211.
Disclosing weaknesses
Sellers of real property must disclose known
defects and deficiencies in the property—including
earthquake weaknesses and hazards—to
prospective buyers in accordance with Civil Code,
Section 1102 and following sections.
Disclosing natural hazards
Sellers of real property must disclose whether the
property is within any of the seven mapped natural
hazard areas, including the earthquake fault,
potential landslide and potential liquefaction areas.
The required Natural Hazards Disclosure Form can
4
be found in Civil Code, Section 1103 and
following sections. When filled out, this statutory
form will reveal whether the home is within a
mapped geologic, flood or hazard area.
Earthquake faults
The Alquist-Priolo Earthquake Fault Zoning Act
prohibits building for human occupancy astride
active faults. Public Resources Code, Section
2621 and following sections, requires sellers of
existing residences to disclose to potential buyers
on a Natural Hazards Disclosure Form if the
property is located in a designated fault zone.
Landslide and liquefaction
The Seismic Hazards Mapping Act requires the
state to prepare maps of the zones in California
most susceptible to landslide and liquefaction
hazards during earthquakes. Public Resources
Code, Section 2694 and following sections, states
that sellers must disclose to buyers, on a Natural
Hazards Disclosure Form, whether the property is
in such a zone, after the map for that area has
been issued officially.
Publishing this guide
The Seismic Safety Commission is required to
develop, adopt, update, and publish The
Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
containing information on geologic and seismic
hazards, explanations of structural and
nonstructural earthquake hazards, and
recommendations for mitigating these hazards,
as required by the Business and Professions
Code, Section 10149.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
PROPERTY TAX AND INSURANCE
Property Tax Reappraisal Exclusion
Earthquake Insurance
California law allows homeowners to strengthen
their homes with approved seismic strengthening
techniques without the improvement being
included in reappraisals that usually raise the
property value and the tax owed, according to the
Revenue and Tax Code, Section 74.5.
Earthquake insurance is typically not part of your
homeowner insurance policy. All insurance
companies that sell residential property insurance
in California are required by law to offer
earthquake insurance to homeowners when the
policy is first sold and every two years afterward.
If you make an addition, such as a swimming pool
or a new den to your home, your property tax bill
will increase. But a strengthening project to help
your home resist earthquakes will not add to your
property taxes.
The cost of the earthquake policy you are offered
is based on a number of factors, including your
home’s location, age, construction type, and value.
One thing to consider would be to compare the
expected damage versus the deductible that is
applicable to your policy. You may wish to consult
a licensed civil or structural engineer for more
specific information on your potential for damage.
To receive the exclusion you must file a claim form
with your county assessor. The work must also be
approved as appropriate seismic strengthening by
your local building department.
A sample form from the County of Santa Clara is
attached on page 49. This form may vary by
county.
Each homeowner should consider his/her
individual risk factors and then weigh the cost of
earthquake coverage against the benefits. The
California Earthquake Authority (CEA) website has
an online calculator to help estimate your premium
based on your ZIP Code, insured value, dwelling
type, and desired coverage and deductible.
The California Earthquake Authority is required to
provide, and the insurance companies are required
to disclose the availability of, discounts on
earthquake insurance premiums for older homes
that have been strengthened to resist earthquake
damage. For more information, contact your
insurance agent, who can also help you locate an
earthquake insurer and estimate your annual
premium.
California Earthquake Authority:
www.EarthquakeAuthority.com
California Department of Insurance:
www.insurance.ca.gov
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
5
Figure 1 - San Fernando Earthquake, Feb. 9,
1971 Severely damaged split level 1 and 2 story
wood frame dwelling. The one story portion
dropped about 3 feet.
FEMA News Photo
Pacific Fire Rating Bureau
EXAMPLES OF DAMAGE TO
SINGLE FAMILY HOMES
Robert A. Eplett, OES
Dane Golden, FEMA News Photo
Figure 4 - Northridge Earthquake, Jan. 17, 1994
Chimney Collapse - common type of damage to
unreinforced masonry.
FEMA
Guna Selvaduray
Figure 5 - San Simeon Earthquake, Dec. 22, 2003
This home slid two feet off its foundation due to
inadequate nailing of walls to its sill plates.
Figure 2 - Loma Prieta Earthquake, Oct. 17, 1989
Home moved off of its foundation and was considered
a total loss.
Figure 3 - Northridge Earthquake, Jan. 17, 1994
Single family residence damaged due to failure of
multiple elements.
6
Figure 6 - San Simeon Earthquake, Dec. 22, 2003
The collapsed porch was not adequately attached to
this single family residence.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
EARTHQUAKE MAPS OF
CALIFORNIA
DAMAGING EARTHQUAKES IN CALIFORNIA
Figure 7—Earthquake history. California has
experienced many damaging earthquakes in the
past two centuries. The sizes of the dots on this
map indicate the relative magnitude of earthquakes
that occurred at these locations.
EUREKA, 1954,
1980
CAPE MENDOCINO,
1992
OROVILLE, 1975
Seismic Zones in California. All of California
lies within Seismic Zone 3 or 4. There are four
zones in the U.S.A., ranging from 1 to 4; the
higher the number the higher the earthquake
danger. Stronger construction standards for
buildings in Zones 3 and 4 have been adopted in
the Uniform Building Code.
TAHOE, 1966
WINTERS-VACAVILLE, 1892
SANTA ROSA, 1969
NAPA VALLEY, 2000
SAN FRANCISCO, 1906
OWENS VALLEY, 1980
CHALFANT VALLEY, 1986
MORGAN HILL, 1984
LOMA PRIETA, 1989
OWENS VALLEY, 1872
COALINGA, 1983
SAN SIMEON, 2003
HECTOR MINE, 1999
KERN COUNTY, 1952
SAN FERNANDO, 1971
SANTA BARBARA, 1925
ZONE 3
ZONE 4
NORTHRIDGE,
1994
SIERRA MADRE,
1991
LONG BEACH, 1933
WHITTIER NARROWS,
1987
FORT TEJON,
1857
LANDERS/BIG
BEAR, 1992
PALM SPRINGS,
1986
IMPERIAL VALLEY,
1940, 1979, 1987
Source: California Geological Survey, 1986; Earthquake History of the U.S., U.S. Department of Commerce and Interior, 1982;
Records of California Office of Emergency Services; compiled and revised by California Seismic Safety Commission, 2004;
International Code Council, Uniform Building Code 1997 Edition.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
7
MAJOR EARTHQUAKE FAULTS IN CALIFORNIA
Figure 8 - Earthquake Faults - Map showing
major earthquake faults in California on which
earthquakes are most likely to occur.
Eureka
San Francisco
as
re
nd
nA
Sa
ult
Fa
Santa Barbara
Los Angeles
For a more detailed map, including
names of faults, go to:
www.seismic.ca.gov/hog.htm
San Diego
Map courtesy of California Geological Survey. Fault locations modified from seismic sources used in Revised 2002 California
Probabilistic Seismic Hazard Maps.
8
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
SIMPLIFIED EARTHQUAKE SHAKING POTENTIAL
MAP FOR CALIFORNIA
Figure 9 - Earthquake Shaking Potential Map - This
map shows the relative intensity of ground shaking and
damage in California from anticipated future
earthquakes.
Please note:
Expected damages in California in the
next 10 years exceed $30 billion.
Eureka
Three-quarters of our nation’s
earthquake losses will be in California.
Efforts to reduce the losses from
earthquakes have already proven
effective.
Sacramento
San Francisco
San Jose
Fresno
Increasing intensity
Regions near major, active
faults. These will on average
experience stronger earthquake
shaking more frequently.
Regions distant from known,
active faults. These will
experience lower levels of
shaking less frequently.
Los Angeles
Long Beach
San Diego
For a full color version go to:
www.seismic.ca.gov/hog.htm
Data source: California Seismic Safety Commission, California Geological Survey, Governor’s Office of Emergency
Services, and United States Geological Survey, April, 2003, Earthquake Shaking Potential for California, California
Seismic Safety Commission Publication No. 03-02.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
9
ADDITIONAL RESOURCES
There are many additional resources available. Some are web sites and some are
books or pamphlets.
The California Seismic Safety Commission has created a webpage that
provides links to other sites that are appropriate for homeowners
interested in improving the earthquake safety of their homes.
Visit www.seismic.ca.gov/hog.htm
FEMA also provides a wide variety of information suitable for the
homeowner, including the availability of, and registration for, federal
disaster aid programs after a damaging earthquake or other disasters.
Visit www.fema.gov
10
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
EARTHQUAKE WEAKNESSES
The earthquake weaknesses identified in this section, if not corrected, can result in
one or more of the following:
Injury to occupants
Severe damage to your home
Broken gas and utility lines
Fires from broken gas lines
Damage to floors, walls, and windows
Damage to the contents in the house
Damage to the foundations
Please remember that:
Retrofitting before an earthquake is relatively cheap.
Doing major structural repairs to your home after an earthquake is very
expensive.
Sometimes the damage is extensive enough to require the entire house to
be demolished.
After an earthquake, there is usually a shortage of available licensed
contractors and engineers in the impacted area, because of the sudden
high demand for their services.
An appropriate seismic retrofit will reduce damage and save you money.
Please consult your local Building Department and/or a licensed architect or
engineer for more detailed information.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
11
IDENTIFY
WEAKNESSES
Contents Damage
Unbraced Water Heaters
Governor’s Office of Emergency Services
The Problem
If water heaters are not properly braced, they can
topple over during an earthquake causing:
Broken gas lines and gas leaks
Water heater
Fires causing major damage to homes
Broken water lines and flooding
How to Identify
Is the water heater free-standing?
Are there straps or other types of restraints
securing the water heater?
Are there straps or restraints bolted to the
Are there flexible pipes for water and gas
connected to the water heater?
Figure 10 - The unbraced water heater in
this home fell during an earthquake; the
resulting fire destroyed the home.
Guna Selvaduray
studs?
Remember
Replacing a water heater after an earthquake
can cost more than $500.
Repairing fire damage and flooding damage
can cost several thousand dollars, including the
entire cost of your home!
There are many different ways of strapping a
water heater. One example is shown on the
next page. (See page 13)
Check with your local Building Department for
details of local requirements.
Know where your main water valve is so that
you can shut it off if you have a water leak.
Know where your main gas valve is so that you
can shut it off if you hear or smell a gas leak.
(See page 32)
12
Figure 11 - This unstrapped water heater
tipped over during the 1984 Morgan Hill
Earthquake. Fortunately gas and water
lines were not ruptured.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
Brace Water Heaters
HOW-TO
Water heaters must be braced (securely attached) to the studs in a wall. California law requires water
heaters to be braced at the time of sale, or when a new water heater is installed.
The Solution
There are many solutions – all relatively
inexpensive.
Purchase and install a strap kit or
bracing kit from your local hardware
store. Be sure the kit is certified by
the State Architect.
If wood blocking is used, it
must be attached to studs.
Sheetrock
Other options include:
Have a licensed plumber strap your
water heater according to code.
Flexible
pipes
Use metal tubing or heavy metal
strapping and lag screws and
washers to secure the water heater
to the wall studs.
The gas and water lines should also have
flexible pipes. These are safer than rigid
pipes during an earthquake.
Straps
WATER
HEATER
Be sure to check the straps once a year.
They may come loose due to vibrations,
or other causes.
How-to Resources
Your local home improvement store
How to Brace Your Water Heater, City of Los
Angeles, Department of Building & Safety,
Information Bulletin #P/PC 2002-003, June 14,
1999.
Guidelines for Earthquake Bracing of Residential
Water Heaters, Department of General Services,
Division of State Architect, August 11, 2004.
Figure 12: One Method of Water Heater Bracing. Straps
and screws visible with water heater in a garage installation.
You may need to add wood blocking.
How to Secure Your Water Heater, Governor’s
Office of Emergency Services, 2003.
Comparison of Cost: Preventing vs. Repairing Earthquake Damage
Project Cost
$20 to $200
Cost to Repair after an Earthquake
$500 to total value of home (if completely destroyed).
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
13
IDENTIFY
WEAKNESSES
Home Not Anchored to Foundation
Office of Emergency Services
The Problem
Houses that are not bolted to the foundation can
move off their foundations during earthquakes.
How to Identify
Go down into the crawl space – the area
between the first floor and the foundation – to
find out if your house is bolted to its foundation.
Look for the heads of anchor bolts that fasten
the sill plate – the wooden board that sits
directly on top of the foundation – securely to
the foundation. (See Figure 14a, page 15)
You should be able to see the large nuts,
washers, and anchor bolts, installed at least
every 4 to 6 feet along the sill plate. Steel
plates are sometimes used instead of anchor
bolts. (See Figure 14b, page 15)
Remember
Figure 13 - This home wasn’t bolted and slid off its
foundation. Sometimes the damage can be so bad that
houses have to be demolished.
If your home has no foundation, or an old
concrete foundation, see page 30.
It is very expensive to lift a house, and place it
back on its foundation.
Homes moving off their foundations can cause
gas lines to rupture, which in turn can result in
fires.
Slab Foundations
Some homes are built directly on concrete slabs. These houses do not have crawl spaces
and cripple walls.
Nearly all homes with slab foundations that were originally built to code will have anchor
bolts or straps.
However, if the house is not bolted to the slab, you have an earthquake weakness.
Newer homes generally have anchor bolts or straps.
If you have an unfinished garage, you may be able to see the anchor bolts.
You are not required to remove siding, drywall or plaster to determine if your house has
anchor bolts.
14
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
Anchor Foundation
HOW-TO
Structural
Damage
HOW-TO
Contents
Contents
Damage
Nonstructural
Hazards
Contents
Damage
Wall studs
The Solution
Drill holes through the sill plate into the foundation
and install anchor bolts. (See Figure 14a)
Floor joists
Flooring
If there is not enough room to drill, you can attach
steel plates to hold the sill plate to the foundation.
(See Figure 14b)
Anchor bolts have to be installed properly for them to
be effective.
CRAWL
SPACE
Concrete
foundation
You must obtain the proper permits from your local
Building Department before beginning work.
Tops of
anchor bolts
Sill Plate
Figure 14a
Wall stud
Floor joists
Flooring
CRAWL
SPACE
Concrete
foundation
Steel plates
How-to Resources
Figure 14b
Detailed information for do-it-yourselfers or
engineers can be found in the International Existing
Building Code, published by the International Code
Council.
Publication: How You Can Strengthen Your Home
for the Next Big Earthquake in the Los Angeles
Area, City of Los Angeles, Department of Building
& Safety, October 2001.
Figure 14 —Anchor bolts or steel plates. A home’s crawl
space may be formed by a cripple wall (see next page for
description) between the foundation and the floor joists or the
floor joists may rest directly on the sill plate. In either case,
you should be able to see the heads of anchor bolts or steel
plates installed at appropriate intervals. These fixtures fasten
the sill plate to the foundation.
Comparison of Cost: Preventing vs. Repairing Earthquake Damage
Project Cost
$250 to $5,000
Cost to Repair after an Earthquake
$25,000 to total value of home (if completely destroyed).
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
15
IDENTIFY
Weak
WEAKNESSES
Structural
Damage
Contents Damage
Nonstructural
Hazards
Cripple Walls
Office of Emergency Services
The Problem
Wooden floors and stud walls are sometimes built
on top of an exterior foundation to support a house
and create a crawl space. (See Figure 17, page 17)
These are called cripple walls and they carry the
weight of the house.
During an earthquake, these walls can collapse if
they are not braced to resist horizontal movement.
If the cripple wall fails, the house may shift or fall.
How to Identify
Go under the house through the crawl space, to
see if there are any cripple walls.
If there are cripple walls, check to see if they
are braced.
There should be plywood panels adequately
nailed to the studs OR there should be diagonal
wood sheathing. (See Figure 16)
Figure 15 - Damage to home due to cripple
wall failure.
If you have neither of these, the cripple walls
are probably insufficiently braced or unbraced.
Floor
joists
Horizontal or vertical wood siding is not
strong enough to brace cripple walls.
First floor
Remember
It is very expensive to lift a house, repair
the cripple wall, and put it back on its
foundation
Cripple wall
Diagonal
sheathing
Figure 16 - Diagonal Sheathing. Common in older homes.
16
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
Strengthen Cripple Walls
HOW-TO
The Solution
Floor joists
Plywood, or other wood products allowed by code,
should be nailed to the studs.
Plywood panels
First floor
The following are important:
Siding
Type of wood product used
Cripple
wall
Plywood thickness
Nail size and spacing
Studs
Do not cover vents.
Consult your local Building Department for permit
requirements before starting work.
Blocking
Foundation
Vent holes
Nails at
appropriate
intervals
How-to Resources
Detailed information for do-it-yourselfers or
engineers can be found in the International
Existing Building Code, published by the
International Code Council
Anchor bolts at
appropriate intervals
Double
top plate
Figure 17—Plywood or
diagonal sheathing
strengthens weak cripple
walls. If your home has a
cripple wall between the
foundation and the first
floor, and the wall is not
braced with plywood or
diagonal sheathing, the
house may fall or shift off
its foundation during an
earthquake.
Publication: How You Can Strengthen Your
Home for the Next Big Earthquake in the Los
Angeles Area, City of Los Angeles,
Department of Building & Safety, October
2001.
Plywood
2x4 Stud
Siding
Anchor
bolt
Nails at
appropriate
intervals
Sill plate
Comparison of Cost: Preventing vs. Repairing Earthquake Damage
Project Cost
$500 to $2,500
Cost to Repair after an Earthquake
$25,000 to total value of home (if completely destroyed).
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
17
IDENTIFY
WEAKNESSES
Pier-and-Post Foundations
California Seismic Safety Commission
The Problem
The outside of the house is supported by wood
posts resting on unconnected concrete piers.
Siding is often nailed to the outside of the posts,
making them not easily visible.
During an earthquake these posts can fail, if they
are not braced against swaying.
If the posts fail, the house may shift or fall.
How to Identify
California Seismic Safety Commission
Go under the house to see if there is a
continuous foundation under the outside walls.
If you do not see a continuous foundation you
may have an earthquake weakness.
If you see only unconnected concrete piers and
wood posts, or only wood posts, supporting the
outside walls, you have an earthquake
weakness.
Remember
Horizontal or vertical wood siding is not strong
enough to brace pier-and-post foundations.
Major structural repairs, like lifting an entire
house to repair the posts and putting it back,
are very expensive.
18
Figure 18 - The pier-and-post
foundation under this home shifted
during a recent earthquake.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
Strengthen Pier-and-Post Foundations
HOW-TO
Contents
Nonstructural
Hazards
Contents Damage
Damage
The Solution
Consult a licensed architect or engineer, and a
licensed building contractor who specializes in
foundations, to fix this problem.
It may be possible to make the foundation safer by
bracing the posts.
You might be better off to add a new foundation and
plywood walls in the crawl space to make sure that
the house will not shift or fall off its foundation
during an earthquake.
How-to Resource
Detailed information for engineers can be found in
the International Existing Building Code, published
by the International Code Council.
Comparison of Cost: Preventing vs. Repairing Earthquake Damage
Project Cost
$1,000 to $25,000
Cost to Repair after an Earthquake
$20,000 to total value of home (if completely destroyed).
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
19
IDENTIFY
WEAKNESSES
Unreinforced Masonry Foundations
California Seismic Safety Commission
The Problem
Unreinforced masonry—brick, concrete block, or
stone—foundations often cannot resist earthquake
shaking. They may break apart, or be too weak to
hold anchor bolts. Homes may shift off such
foundations during earthquakes, damaging the
walls, floors, utility lines, and home contents.
How to Identify
If your home’s foundation is brick or stone, and
looks like one of the foundations shown in the
photos here, it is probably unreinforced.
Figure 19 - This is an unreinforced stone foundation.
They typically fail during earthquakes.
California Seismic Safety Commission
If there is a space filled with grout between the
inner and outer faces of a brick foundation
(where anchor bolts and reinforcing steel could
be installed), it may be reinforced.
If the outside of the foundation is covered, you
may have to look under the house to see the
type of foundation you have.
If you are not sure what to look for, seek the
services of a licensed engineer to determine if
your foundation is reinforced or not.
Remember
It is cheaper to do this before an earthquake
damages the house than after.
Figure 20 - Note the bricks exposed in this unreinforced
masonry foundation.
20
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
Retrofit Masonry Foundations
HOW-TO
Damage
Structural
HOW-TO
Contents
Damage
Contents
Damage
Nonstructural
Hazards
Contents
Damage
The Solution
There are several ways to fix this problem.
The most common approach is to replace all or
part of the existing foundation with a poured
reinforced concrete foundation.
Another solution is strengthening the unreinforced
brick or stone foundation, which is generally
expensive.
Seek the help of a licensed architect or engineer,
and a licensed foundation contractor or general
contractor.
How-to Resource
Detailed information for engineers can be found in
the International Existing Building Code, published
by the International Code Council.
Comparison of Cost: Preventing vs. Repairing Earthquake Damage
Project Cost
$15,000 to $50,000
Cost to Repair after an Earthquake
$15,000 to total value of home (if completely destroyed).
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
21
IDENTIFY
WEAKNESSES
Homes Built on Steep Hillsides
Office of Emergency Services
The Problem
Houses built on the sides of steep hills are often
set on exposed posts or columns, as shown in the
photographs.
The potentially hazardous conditions that are
unique to homes on steep hillsides are:
Stilt-type posts with or without diagonal
bracing
Walls with very different heights or that are
stepped or sloped down the hillsides.
If these posts or walls are not properly braced,
they may collapse during an earthquake.
Sometimes, the supports on the downhill side will
be hidden behind a tall wall that encloses a large
unfinished space. (This is similar to, but taller
than, a crawl space under a typical house built on
flat ground.)
Figure 22 - This hillside home was built on an
unbraced tall wall that failed.
How to Identify
Office of Emergency Services
Is the house located on a slope?
Are the columns or walls supporting the home
braced?
If you are not sure if there is bracing or if the
bracing is adequate, consult a licensed
engineer.
Remember
It is very expensive to lift a house, repair the
posts, and put it back.
Figure 23 - This photograph shows an interior detail of a
home similar to the one above, showing substantial damage
to a building with an unbraced tall wall.
22
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
Strengthen Homes on Steep Hillside
HOW-TO
PEER and Nels Roselund, SE
The Solution
Consult a licensed architect or engineer, and a
licensed contractor, to fix this problem.
Sloped or
stepped
wall
Tall
wall
Figure 24 - Hillside homes with sloped and tall walls or posts
require special engineering.
How-to Resources
Detailed information can be found in the
International Existing Building Code, published by
the International Code Council.
Voluntary Earthquake Hazard Reduction in Existing
Hillside Buildings, City of Los Angeles Municipal
Code, Chapter IX, Article 1, Division 94.
Comparison of Cost: Preventing vs. Repairing Earthquake Damage
Project Cost
$1,000 to $50,000
Cost to Repair after an Earthquake
$10,000 to total value of home (if completely destroyed).
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
23
Unreinforced Masonry Walls
California Seismic Safety Commission
IDENTIFY
WEAKNESSES
The Problem
Houses built of unreinforced masonry – bricks,
hollow clay tiles, stone, concrete blocks, or adobe
– are very likely to be damaged during
earthquakes.
The mortar holding the masonry together is
generally not strong enough to resist earthquake
forces.
Anchorage of walls to the floor and the roof is
critical.
These houses are weak (brittle) and can break
apart.
Figure 25 - The plaster-covered brick walls of this
building collapsed during a recent earthquake.
How to Identify
Can bricks or stone be seen from the outside
(unless the walls are covered with stucco)?
Do the brick walls have “header courses” of
bricks turned endways every five or six rows?
(See Figure 26)
Figure 26 - Header courses
of bricks are usually placed
endwise every six or so rows
in unreinforced masonry
walls to tie the outer layer of
bricks to the layers inside the
wall.
Was the house built before 1940?
If you cannot tell from the outside, turn off the
power and take the cover plate off one of the
electrical outlet boxes on an outside wall and look
for brick or other masonry.
If the wall is concrete or concrete block, it is very
difficult to find out if reinforcing steel was added
during construction.
You will then need:
The house’s plans, which may be on file with
the Building Department, or
24
California Seismic Safety Commission
Walls may fall away or buckle, resulting in
damage.
To consult a licensed engineer to make
the determination.
Remember
It is very expensive to shore up a house,
remove damaged walls, and put in new
walls.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
Strengthen Unreinforced Masonry Walls
HOW-TO
Jessica Tran
The Solution
Consult a licensed architect or engineer to fix this
problem.
One solution may involve:
Tying the walls to the floor and roof
Installing a steel frame and bolting the
wall to it.
Jessica Tran
Figure 27 - Unreinforced masonry wall strengthened by
installing a steel frame inside.
How-to Resource
Detailed information can be found in the International Existing Building Code, published by the
International Code Council.
Figure 28 - Bolting of unreinforced masonry wall to steel
frame on the inside.
Comparison of Cost: Preventing vs. Repairing Earthquake Damage
Project Cost
Cost to Repair after an Earthquake
Project and Repair costs can vary widely.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
25
IDENTIFY
WEAKNESSES
Rooms over Garages
The Problem
Office of Emergency Services
The large opening of a garage door and the weight
of a second-story room built over the garage can
result in the walls being too weak to withstand
earthquake shaking.
When the narrow sections of the wall on each side
of the opening are not reinforced or braced, the
weakness is worse.
How to Identify
Is the garage door opening in line with the rest of
the house? (See Figure 30)
Figure 29 - This mountain home was built over a garage, and
its walls were not strong enough to withstand an earthquake.
If this is the case, additional bracing may not
be needed.
Is the house shaped like Figure 31? If this is the
case, are there braces or plywood panels around
the garage door opening?
HOUSE VIEWED FROM ABOVE
If there are no braces or plywood panels,
strengthening may be needed.
Garage
House
Consult a licensed architect or engineer to
determine the strengthening required.
Remember
Many homes with this weakness have been
severely damaged in past earthquakes.
Figure 30 - If the wall of the main house is in line
with the wall containing the door of a garage with a
room over it, the adjoining wall may help brace the
garage.
HOUSE VIEWED FROM ABOVE
House
Garage
with room
above
Garage
s
s
Wall may need bracing
Figure 31—Additional bracing. Home configuration
where there is no in-line wall. Additional bracing may
be appropriate in this situation.
26
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
Strengthen Rooms over Garages
HOW-TO
Steel straps
The Solution
Consult a licensed architect or engineer to design
plywood paneling or a steel frame around the door
opening (See Figure 32).
Plywood
panels
Have plans drawn.
Obtain a permit from your local Building
Department.
Anchor Bolts and Tie Downs
Figure 32—Bracing garage walls. If your house has a
room over the garage, the garage walls may not be strong
enough to hold up during an earthquake unless they are
braced with plywood panels and steel straps.
How-to Resource
Detailed information can be found in the International Existing Building Code, published by the
International Code Council.
Comparison of Cost: Preventing vs. Repairing Earthquake Damage
Project Cost
$5,000 to $25,000
Cost to Repair after an Earthquake
$15,000 to total value of home (if completely destroyed).
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
27
OTHER EARTHQUAKE-RELATED
CONCERNS
OTHER
CONCERNS
Unreinforced Masonry Chimneys
The Problem
Office of Emergency Services
Many chimneys are built of unreinforced brick or
stone. During an earthquake these can collapse
or break and fall on the roof.
When the chimney fails, the falling stones and
bricks can:
Cause injuries
Damage the house
Damage cars
Tall slender chimneys are most vulnerable.
How to Identify
Figure 33 - This unreinforced chimney fell during a recent
earthquake.
Guna Selvaduray
Check the mortar between the bricks or stones
with a screwdriver. If it crumbles when you pick
at it, the chimney may be a hazard.
Inspect the attic and floor spaces for metal ties
that should be holding the chimney to the
house.
Determining whether a chimney is susceptible
to earthquake damage is not always easy.
When in doubt, consult a licensed engineer or
contractor.
Remember
Do not locate patios, children’s play areas, or
parking spaces near a questionable chimney.
Figure 34 - Morgan Hill Earthquake. Broken chimney fell on
roof.
Tell family members to get away from
chimneys and fireplaces during earthquakes.
28
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
OTHER
CONCERNS
California Seismic Safety Commission
Strengthen Masonry Chimneys
The Solution
Tear down the old or damaged chimney and
replace with a newly constructed chimney.
Several steps can be taken to reduce the risk of
damage from falling chimneys, depending upon
the type of chimney you have. They include:
Add plywood panels at the roof or above the
ceiling joists to prevent the brick or stone from
falling into the house.
This can be done by layering plywood
above the ceiling, in the house’s attic, or
nailing plywood under the shingles when
reroofing.
Replace the upper chimney with metal flues.
Strengthen the existing chimney.
This can be a complicated process,
depending upon the construction and
height of the existing chimney.
Figure 35 - Photo showing damaged chimney removed.
Note that the fireplace is now not functional.
Consult your local Building Department and obtain
necessary permits first.
How-to Resource
Reconstruction and Replacement of Earthquake
Damaged Masonry Chimneys, City of Los Angeles, Department of Building & Safety, Information
Bulletin #P/BC-2002-70.
Comparison of Cost: Preventing vs. Reparing Earthquake Damage
Project Cost
$2,000 to $12,000
Cost to Repair after an Earthquake
$15,000 to total value of home (if completely destroyed).
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
29
OTHER
CONCERNS
Foundations
No Foundation
The Problem
Some older houses were built on wood beams laid directly on the ground,
without foundations. These houses may shift during earthquakes, causing
structural damage and breaking utility lines.
How to Identify
Look under the house. If you see no concrete or masonry around the outside
walls, the house may lack a foundation.
What Can Be Done You may need to add a foundation to make the house earthquake resistant.
Just as when strengthening or replacing an unreinforced masonry foundation,
you will require the advice of a licensed architect, engineer, or foundation
contractor.
Old Concrete Foundation
The Problem
Some older concrete foundations were made with sand or stone that interacted
chemically over time, and the concrete eventually crumbles and becomes too
soft to withstand earthquake forces.
How to Identify
Inspect the foundation for large cracks in the concrete, concrete crumbling off
the foundation, or concrete crumbling when you pick at it with a screwdriver.
What Can Be Done You may need to replace some or all of the foundation. You should consult a
licensed foundation contractor or an engineer.
30
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
OTHER
CONCERNS
Homes with Unique Designs
The Problem
The design and construction features of some homes make them vulnerable to
earthquake damage, especially if these homes are not specifically designed and
built to resist earthquakes. Homes at risk are those with irregular shapes, large
windows (which can break in earthquakes and scatter shards of glass), more than
two stories, irregular walls, or porches and overhangs.
How to Identify
Many homes with these features are strong enough to withstand earthquakes and it
is difficult to tell whether such homes need strengthening. If you have doubts about
one or more of these features in your home, or in a home you are planning to buy,
you should consult a licensed architect or engineer for an assessment.
What Can Be Done A professional can advise you on how to identify and fix earthquake weaknesses if
necessary. For example, large windows can be made safer by applying plastic film
on them.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
31
NATURAL GAS SAFETY
The Problem
Plan Ahead
Natural gas piping and appliances can be damaged
during earthquakes, causing gas leaks.
Locate your gas meter outside your home.
If ignited, this can result in fires which can burn part
of, or, the entire house.
About one in four fires after an earthquake is related
to natural gas leaks.
Identify the exact location of the shutoff valve and
make sure that you have access to it.
Make sure you have a wrench that is readily
available to turn off the gas when needed.
Gas leaks after an earthquake are more likely if:
There are structural weaknesses
Gas appliances are not anchored
Flexible pipe connections are not used.
The primary concern is property loss from fire
damage.
The potential for life loss is limited since most single
family homes have several safe exits.
How to Identify
Examine all natural gas appliances (water
heaters, dryers, stoves, ovens, furnaces) to see
if they are anchored to the floor or walls, and
have flexible pipe connections.
Close-up view of Valve
Figure 36—Manual Shutoff Valve Location
32
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
Manual Gas Shutoff
The most cost-effective way to manage the
risk from natural gas is to know how and when
to manually shut off the gas.
Use the wrench to turn off the manual valve
located at the gas meter (See Figure 36, page
32).
Shut off your gas only if you:
Smell gas
Hear gas escaping
Suspect a broken gas pipe, appliance,
vent, or flue.
Automatic Gas Shutoff Options
There are a variety of automatic gas shut-off valves
available. These cost more than manual shutoff
valves and may provide additional safety but may
also have some disadvantages.
The types of valves available include:
Earthquake shake-actuated valves
Excess flow valves
Methane detectors
Hybrid systems
Others.
Remember
Once the gas has been shutoff, service can
be restored only by utility personnel or
qualified plumbers.
These can be installed on the “customer owned”
side of the gas meter.
High demands for qualified personnel after an
earthquake can lead to substantial delays in
restoring natural gas service.
Consult your local Building Department because:
Resources
Some installations will require building permits.
Some local jurisdictions have adopted
ordinances requiring automatic gas shutoff
devices at the time of sale or during significant
renovations.
Seismic Gas Shut-Off Valve Requirements in Los
Angeles, City of Los Angeles, Department of
Building & Safety, Information Bulletin #P/PC 2002001, April 30, 2003.
Improving Natural Gas Safety in Earthquakes,
California Seismic Safety Commission, Publication
#CSSC-02-03, July 2002.
Gas Shutoff Valve Certification Program, Division
of the State Architect.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
33
GETTING THE WORK DONE
PLANS, PERMITS, AND CONTRACTORS
Decide which strengthening project or projects
you are going to do.
Get the necessary building permits first.
If you are “doing-it-yourself,” you still need
the proper permits.
For more complex projects, have a licensed
architect or engineer draw up the necessary
plans and specifications.
Select your licensed contractor.
First make sure the contractor is properly
licensed.
Interview at least two or three contractors.
Ask your licensed architect or engineer for
recommendations.
Ask for references or former clients.
Talk to references or former clients.
Interview two or three architects or
engineers.
Compare experience, fees, and terms of
contract.
Ask for references or former clients.
Get at least three written bids for the
construction work.
Talk to references or former clients.
Compare experience, ideas, and fees.
Submit the plans for approval to your local
building department.
Remember: the building codes are
designed for your safety.
There are many publications that describe
strengthening projects in detail.
Visit the California Seismic Safety Commission’s
website at www.seismic.ca.gov, which provides
many useful links.
Get the documents that relate to your project
and read them.
This will help you to better understand what
the architect or engineer is doing, and also
what the contractor is doing.
The International Existing Building Code
Appendix Chapter 3 contains the best current
guidelines. Ask your local Building Department
to review a copy.
The lowest bid may not be the best bid.
Keep all plans, permits, and other records of
your strengthening project.
Provide future buyers of your home with
these.
If your home has been designated as “historical,”
you also may need to comply with the California
Historical Building Code.
Contact your local Building Department for
further help with this.
REMEMBER
Whether you do it yourself, or hire a contractor,
you need permits from your local Building
Department.
It costs far less to correct earthquake weaknesses
before an earthquake than to repair the damage
after an earthquake.
If your home is damaged in an earthquake, you will
probably also have other costs such as lodging,
medical, etc.
DON’T HESITATE – MITIGATE!
34
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
AFTER A DISASTER –
HIRE A LICENSED CONTRACTOR!
The contents of this section have been adapted from “After a Disaster, Don’t Get Scammed” by the
Contractors State License Board.
After a Disaster...
DO NOT:
Rush into repairs, no matter how badly they
are needed.
Hire the first contractor who comes along.
Accept verbal promises.
DO:
Get proof that the person you are dealing with
is a California licensed contractor appropriate
for the work to be done.
Get the contractor’s license number and verify
that it is current and valid.
Avoid Payment Pitfalls
By law, a down payment on a home
improvement contract cannot exceed:
10% of the contract price, or
$1000
whichever is less!
Withhold at least 10% of the total
contract price until the project is
complete
Do not make final payment until:
The building department has signed
off on it,
You are satisfied with the job, and
Get a written contract that contains all the
details of the job to be performed.
Get at least three bids.
You take a final walk-through to
make sure work is complete and
done correctly.
Check references of other work the contractor
has done, if possible, in your area.
Develop a payment schedule with the
contractor.
Consider a completion bond on large projects.
Contractors must be licensed for any
job which costs $500 or more, including
materials and labor.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
Useful publications from the Contractor’s State
License Board (www.cslb.ca.gov):
What You Should Know Before You Hire
a Contractor - Provides information about
hiring and working with contractors.
Home Improvement Contracts: Putting
the Pieces Together - Provides answers
about the legal requirements of home
improvement contractors.
35
Geologic Hazards
GEOLOGIC HAZARDS
Patrica Grossi and Augustin Rodriguez, EERI
Sellers of real estate in California are required to
disclose to buyers certain information regarding
natural hazards that can affect the property being
sold. In addition to flood and fire hazard
information, disclosure of seismic hazards is also
required.
Earthquakes are common in California because of
the many earthquake faults located throughout the
state.
This section:
Describes briefly the basic geology-related
hazards, and
Introduces the government mapping programs that define which areas are susceptible to those hazards.
Figure 37 - Landslide. San Simeon Earthquake, December
22, 2003 Landslides on San Gregorio Road in Atascadero,
California, only a short distance away from where the homes
with the most damage were located.
Ground Shaking:
Robert A. Eplett, OES, CA
Ground shaking causes 99% of the earthquake damage to California homes.
Areas near large active faults are more likely
to be shaken severely than areas in the rest
of the state.
Landslide:
Earthquakes can also trigger landslides.
Earthquake shaking can cause the soil and
rock to slide off a slope, ripping apart homes
on the slope and/or crushing homes downhill
(See Figure 37).
Fault Rupture:
An actual crack forms and the ground is
offset along the two sides of a fault during an
earthquake (See Figure 38).
Figure 38 - Fault Rupture. Landers Earthquake of June 28,
1992, produced a surface rupture of over 50 miles along faults
in the Mojave Desert.
A house built over an active fault can be torn
apart if the ground ruptures beneath it.
If the house is built over a “creeping” fault –
one that moves slowly with no earthquakes or
a series of very small earthquakes – the
damage may not be noticed for some time.
36
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
Intense shaking during an earthquake can
cause the soil to break into blocks which move
apart from each other. This can cause
damage to the foundation of a house (See
Figure 39).
NISEE Clearinghouse Project
Lateral Spreading:
Liquefaction:
During earthquakes, loose, wet sandy soil
can become almost like quicksand, and lose
its ability to support structures. This can
cause the foundation of a house to sink,
break, or tilt (See Figure 40).
Tsunami:
Figure 39 - Lateral Spreading. Loma Prieta Earthquake,
October 17, 1989. Lateral spreading damage levee road
along the San Lorenzo River.
Walt Hayes
A tsunami is a series of large sea waves
caused by an underwater earthquake or
landslide.
Coastal areas are prone to tsunami damage.
Tsunami waves can come from a great
distance and can cause flooding or wash
away houses in low-lying areas along the
shore.
Dam Failure:
Earthquake damage to a dam can cause
sudden and devastating flooding of houses
downstream.
Figure 40 - Loma Prieta Earthquake, October 17, 1989.
Lateral spreading, liquefaction and sand boils caused
extensive damage in the Marina District of San Francisco,
about 60 miles away from the epicenter.
Robert A. Page, David M. Boore and Robert F.
Yerkes, USGS
During the 1971 San Fernando Earthquake,
the Lower San Fernando Dam above the San
Fernando Valley was damaged. Had it failed,
it would have flooded the homes below,
causing many deaths and injuries. (See
Figure 41). Risk of an aftershock forced
residents in an 11-square mile area to
evacuate for the next 3 days.
California has some of the world’s best
standards for building and inspecting dams.
Recommendation:
If you live in a low-lying coastal area or a dam
inundation zone, become familiar with evacuation routes to higher ground and be prepared to evacuate such areas immediately
after an earthquake.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
Figure 41 - Lower San Fernando Dam that was badly
damaged by the 1971 San Fernando Earthquake.
37
Earthquake Hazard Mapping
Enormous progress has been made in
understanding how, why, and where earthquakes
occur. This has led to the creation of maps that
highlight areas having the highest likelihood of
damaging earthquakes.
Seismic Hazard Zone Maps
These maps show areas where landslides and
liquefaction are most likely to occur during
earthquakes.
Tsunami Inundation and Evacuation Route Maps
Five mapping programs have been developed to
help Californians lead safer lives in earthquake
country.
Maps for the Pacific Coast show areas where lowlying regions are exposed to tsunami inundation.
These maps are in various stages of preparation and
availability.
National Seismic Zones
Dam Inundation Maps
The U.S. is divided into four major zones, each
having a different likelihood of strong ground
shaking. The earthquake hazard potential for the
U.S., determined through a national program, has
been generalized into four seismic zones,
numbered Zone 1 through Zone 4. Zone 1 has the
lowest earthquake danger and Zone 4 has the
highest earthquake danger. Most of the densely
populated parts of California are in Zone 4.
(See Figure 7, page 7)
These maps show the areas below major dams that
may be flooded in the event of their failure.
The National Seismic Zone map is published by
the International Code Council (ICC) in the
California Building Code.
Earthquake Fault Zone Maps
These maps are also known as the Alquist-Priolo
Earthquake Fault Zone Maps, named after the
California legislators who initiated the legislation
that mandated these maps. The maps show
active earthquake faults prone to surface ruptures
and identify a 1,000 ft. wide zone with the fault line
at the center.
How are these Maps Used?
The zones defined by the maps are at greatest
potential risk when a major earthquake occurs. This
is particularly the case when the earthquake occurs
during or shortly after a heavy rainfall, which increases the likelihood of liquefaction and landslides.
California law requires that the information from the
Earthquake Fault Zone and Seismic Hazard Zone
maps be incorporated into local general plans, and
any land-use planning or permitting ordinances.
Cities and counties must establish regulations
governing development within these zones.
Special geotechnical studies are required before
buildings can be built in Earthquake Fault Zones or
Seismic Hazard Zones.
Your local building or planning department can show
you the National Seismic Zone Map as well as the
other maps if they are available for your community.
These maps, if they are available, may be accessed
through www.seismic.ca.gov/hog.
The Seller of real estate within a hazard zone must disclose that the property lies
within such a zone at the time of sale.
38
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
WHAT TO DO DURING AN
EARTHQUAKE
DROP!
COVER!
1.
IF YOU ARE INDOORS—STAY THERE! “DROP, COVER AND
HOLD ON.” Get under a sturdy desk or table and hang on to it, or
move into a hallway or get against an inside wall. Stay clear of
windows, fireplaces, and heavy furniture or appliances. Get out of
the kitchen, which is a dangerous place in earthquakes since it’s full
of things that can fall on you. Don’t run downstairs or rush outside
while the building is shaking or while there is danger of falling and
hurting yourself or being hit by falling glass or debris.
2.
IF YOU ARE OUTSIDE—GET INTO THE OPEN, away from buildings, power lines, chimneys, and anything else that might fall on you.
3.
IF YOU ARE DRIVING—STOP, but carefully. Move your car as far
out of traffic as possible. Do not stop on or under a bridge or overpass or under trees, light posts, power lines, or signs. Stay inside
your car until the shaking stops. When you resume driving, watch for
breaks in the pavement, fallen rocks, and bumps in the road.
4.
IF YOU ARE ON OR NEAR A STEEP HILLSIDE—WATCH OUT
FOR LANDSLIDES, falling rock, trees, and other debris that could
be loosened by earthquakes.
HOLD ON!
If You Feel a Strong Earthquake or Receive a
Tsunami Warning When You are on the Coast
1.
DROP, COVER AND HOLD ON. Watch for falling objects until the
earthquake is over.
2.
MOVE TO HIGHER GROUND or inland away from the coast immediately. A tsunami may be coming. Go on foot if possible. The first
waves may reach the coast within minutes after the ground shaking
stops. The first wave is almost never the largest. Later waves may
be spaced tens of minutes apart and can continue arriving for many
hours.
3.
THERE MAY BE NO TIME FOR AUTHORITIES TO ISSUE A
WARNING. If you do not hear an evacuation announcement but
notice a sudden drop or rise in water level or hear a loud noise
coming from the water, nature may be warning you of impending
danger.
4.
STAY AWAY FROM THE COAST. Do not return to the shore after
the first wave. Waves may continue to arrive for hours.
5.
LISTEN TO A RADIO FOR AN “ALL CLEAR” before returning to the
shore.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
39
How-To’s
What to Do Before, During, and After an Earthquake
WHAT TO DO BEFORE AN
EARTHQUAKE
The information contained in this section does not represent weaknesses in the earthquake resistance of
homes. It is valuable information to keep in mind to reduce risks to yourself, your family, and your home.
These lists are only highlights of the actions you should take.
Gather Emergency
Supplies
Be sure you have these basic supplies on hand:
Fire extinguisher
Adequate supplies of medications that you or family members
are taking
Crescent and pipe wrenches to turn off gas and water supplies
First-aid kit and handbook
Flashlights with extra bulbs and fresh batteries
Portable battery-powered radio or television and extra fresh
batteries
Water for each family member for at least three days (allow at
least one gallon per person per day) and purification tablets or
chlorine bleach to purify drinking water from other sources
Canned and packaged foods, enough for three days, and at
least an additional four-day supply readily accessible for use if
you are confined to home. Don’t forget a mechanical can opener
and extra pet food!
Camp stove or barbecue to cook on outdoors (store fuel out of
the reach of children)
Waterproof, heavy-duty plastic bags for waste disposal
Copies of personal identification, such as driver’s licenses,
passports, and work identification badges, and copies of medical prescriptions and credit cards
An extra set of car keys and house keys
Matches in waterproof container
Map of the area marked with places you could go and their
telephone numbers
Cash and coins
Special items, such as denture needs, contact lenses and
supplies, extra eyeglasses, and hearing aid batteries
Items for seniors, disabled persons, or anyone with serious
allergies
Items for infants, such as formula, diapers, bottles, pacifiers,
powdered milk, and medications not requiring refrigeration
40
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
Plan Ahead
1.
Create a family disaster plan; practice and maintain the plan.
2.
Make and complete a checklist.
3.
Plan home escape routes.
4.
Conduct fire and emergency evacuation drills at least twice a
year and include your pets in your evacuation and sheltering
drills.
5.
Test your smoke alarms once a month (daylight savings time or
birthdays) and replace batteries at least once a year in batterypowered smoke alarms.
6.
Make sure each member of your family knows what to do no
matter where they are when earthquakes occur.
Establish two meeting places where you can all reunite afterward: one right outside your home, in case of a sudden
emergency, and one outside your neighborhood in case you
cannot return home or are asked to leave your neighborhood.
Find out about the earthquake plan developed by your
children’s school or day care.
Remember that since transportation may be disrupted, you
may have to stay at your workplace for a day or twofollowing
a major earthquake. Keep some emergency supplies—food,
liquids, and comfortable shoes, for example—at work.
Pick two out-of-town contacts:
A friend or relative who will be your household’s primary
contact,
A friend or relative who will be your household’s
alternative contact.
7.
Know where your gas, electric, and water main shutoffs are and
how to turn them off if there is a leak or electrical short; if in
doubt, ask your utility companies. Make sure that all the older
members of your family can shut off the utilities.
8.
Locate your nearest fire and police stations and emergency
medical facility. Remember that telephones may not work after
an earthquake. If you can, use your land line rather than your
cell phone to call 911, but only if you need emergency help.
9.
Talk to your neighbors—how could they help you, or you help
them, after an earthquake?
10. Take a Red Cross first aid and cardiopulmonary resuscitation
(CPR) training course.
11. Make arrangements with friends or relatives to temporarily house
your pets after disasters because emergency shelters will not
accept pets.
12. If your home is located near a steep hillside, in an area near the
shore of a body of water or below a dam, check with your local
building or planning department to see if you are in a landslide,
tsunami or dam inundation zone. Plan for how, when, and where
your family should evacuate.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
41
WHAT TO DO AFTER AN
EARTHQUAKE
Wear sturdy shoes to avoid injury from broken glass and debris.
Expect aftershocks.
Check for Injuries
Check for Hazards
42
1.
If a person is bleeding, put direct pressure on the wound. Use
clean gauze or cloth, if available.
2.
If a person is not breathing, administer rescue breathing. The
front pages of many telephone books contain instructions on
how to do it along with detailed instructions on other first-aid
measures.
3.
Do not attempt to move seriously injured persons unless they
are in immediate danger of further injury.
4.
Cover injured persons with blankets to keep them warm.
5.
Seek medical help for serious injuries.
1.
Fire or fire hazards. Put out fires in your home or neighborhood
immediately. Call for help, but don’t wait for the fire department.
2.
Gas leaks. Shut off the main gas valve only if you suspect a
leak because of broken pipes or the odor of natural gas. Don’t
turn it back on yourself—wait for the gas company to check for
leaks.
3.
Damaged electrical wiring. Shut off power at the control box if
there is any damage to your house wiring.
4.
Downed or damaged utility lines. Do not touch downed power
lines or any objects in contact with them.
5.
Spills. Clean up any spilled medicines, drugs, or other potentially
harmful materials such as bleach, lye, and gasoline or other
hazardous materials.
6.
Downed or damaged chimneys. Approach chimneys with
caution. They may be weakened and could topple during
aftershocks. Don’t use a fireplace with a damaged chimney—it
could start a fire or let poisonous gases into your house.
7.
Fallen items. Beware of items tumbling off shelves when you
open the doors of closets and cupboards.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
Check Your Food and
Water Supplies
1. If power is off, plan meals to use up foods that will spoil quickly, or
frozen foods. If you keep the door closed, food in your freezer
should be good for at least a couple of days.
2. Don’t light your kitchen stove if you suspect a gas leak.
3. Use barbecues or camp stoves, outdoors only, for emergency
cooking.
4. If your water is off, you can drink supplies from water heaters,
melted ice cubes, or canned vegetables. Try to avoid drinking
water from swimming pools or, especially, spas—it may have too
many chemicals in it to be safe.
Note: The information in these
sections is reproduced in
whole or in part with the
permission of the copyright
owner, SBC. The Survival
Guide is available in the White
Pages of SBC Directories ©
SBC 2004. This information
was provided by medical and
emergency service authorities
and published as a public
service. While every
reasonable effort was made to
ensure its accuracy, SBC is not
responsible and assumes no
liability for any action
undertaken by any person in
utilizing such information. Any
person relying upon such
information does so at his or
her own risk.
Do Not . . .
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
Do not eat or drink anything from open containers near
shattered glass.
Do not turn the gas on again if you turned it off; let the gas
company do it.
Do not use matches, lighters, camp stoves or barbecues,
electrical equipment—including telephones—or appliances
until you are sure there are no gas leaks. They may create
sparks that could ignite leaking gas and cause an explosion
and fire.
Do not use your telephone, except for a medical or fire
emergency. You could tie up lines needed for emergency
response.
If you need help and the phone doesn’t work, send someone for help.
Do not expect firefighters, police, or paramedics to help you
right away. They may not be available.
43
Geologic Hazards
Resource Organizations
RESOURCE ORGANIZATIONS
Some of the organizations listed below have information to help you strengthen your home against earthquakes and help you and your family prepare a personal earthquake response plan. Other resources that
can help you may be available in your community; check your local telephone directory.
Home Safety Information
Structural Safety Information
Office of Emergency Services
American Institute of Architects
Main Office
Information and Public Affairs
P.O. Box 419047
Rancho Cordova, CA 95741-9047
Telephone: (916) 845-8400
http://www.oes.ca.gov
Local chapters have referral lists of licensed
architects; consult telephone directory listing for
“American Institute of Architects.”
http://www.aia.org
Regional Offices:
Coastal Region
1300 Clay Street, Suite 408
Oakland, CA 94612
Telephone: (510) 286-0895
Inland Region
P.O. Box 419047
Rancho Cordova, CA 95741-9047
Telephone: (916) 845-8470
Inland Region South
2550 Mariposa Mall, Room 181
Fresno, CA 93721
Telephone: (559) 445-5672
Southern Region
4671 Liberty Avenue
Los Alamitos, CA 90720
Telephone: (562) 795-2900
1730 I Street, Suite 240,
Sacramento, CA 95814-3017
Telephone: (916) 447-1198
http://www.seaoc.org
Local chapter organizations have referral list for
licensed structural engineers as follows:
San Diego
- http://www.seaosd.org
Southern California - http://www.seaosc.org
Northern California - http://www.seaonc.org
Central California
- http://www.seaocc.org
California Seismic Safety Commission
Building Education Center
1755 Creekside Oaks Drive, Ste. 100
Sacramento, CA 95833
Telephone: (916) 263-5506
www.seismic.ca.gov
Structural Engineers Association of
California
American Society of Home Inspectors
932 Lee Street, Suite 101
Des Plaines, IL 60016
Telephone: (800) 743-2744
http://www.ashi.com
Referral list of licensed inspectors.
812 Page Street
Berkeley, CA 94710
Telephone: (510) 525-7610
http://www.bldgeductr.org
California Earthquake Authority
801 K Street, Suite 1000
Sacramento, CA 95814
Telephone: (877) 797-4300
http://www.earthquakeauthority.com
44
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
California Real Estate Inspection
Association
1445 N. Sunrise Way, Suite 101
Palm Springs, CA 92262
Telephone: (800) 848-7342 (information)
http://www.creia.org/
Call for pamphlet describing house inspection
services offered by members and referrals to
qualified members.
Southern California Earthquake Center
University of Southern California
3651 Toursdale Parkway, Suite 169
Los Angeles, CA 90089-0742
Telephone: (213) 740-5843
http://www.scec.org
United States Geological Survey
1303 J Street, Suite 450
Sacramento, CA 95814
Telephone: (916) 441-7991
http://www.celsoc.org/
A referral list for licensed engineers is available.
Earth Science Information Center
345 Middlefield Road
Menlo Park, CA 94025
Telephone: (650) 853-8300
http://www.usgs.gov
This is the federal agency responsible for
geological and earthquake hazard research,
mapping, and policy. It provides maps and other
information to the general public.
International Code Council
Cities and Counties
5360 Workman Mill Road
Whittier, CA 90601-2298
Telephone: (800) 284-4406
http://www.iccsafe.org
Consult your telephone directory under city or
county government listings for the office of
emergency services or disaster management,
city or county building and planning
department, and city or county government
geologist.
Consulting Engineers and Land Surveyors
of California
Geologic Information
Association of Bay Area Governments
P.O. Box 2050
Oakland, CA 94604
Telephone: (510) 464-7900
http://www.abag.ca.gov
A consortium of local governments in the San
Francisco Bay Area, offering a variety of
information, including lists of local resources.
California Geological Survey
California Department of Conservation
801 K Street, MS 12-30
Sacramento, CA 95814
Telephone: (916) 445-1825
http://www.consrv.ca.gov/cgs
The CGS is the state agency responsible for
geological research, mapping, and policy. It
provides maps and other information to the
general public.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
Emergency Planning Information
Federal Emergency Management Agency
Region IX
1111 Broadway, Suite 1200
Oakland, CA 94607
Telephone: (510) 627-7100
http://www.fema.gov
FEMA offers a publications lists and referrals to
preparedness organizations. FEMA also provides
information on Federal Disaster Aid Programs that
become available after Federal disasters.
American Red Cross
Consult your telephone directory for the address
and phone number of your local chapter.
http://www.redcross.org
45
REPORT
HOW TO FILL OUT THE DISCLOSURE
FORM
When you sell a home that was built before 1960, you are required to fill out
the form shown on the next page.
Sellers must hand buyers a completed disclosure report.
Sellers must answer the questions to the best of their knowledge.
If a question on the form describes only part of your house—for example if part of your house is
anchored to the foundation and the other part is not—sellers should answer the question with a
“NO” because a portion of the house is not properly anchored.
Sellers are not required to remove siding, drywall, or plaster in order to answer the questions.
Sellers are not required to hire anyone to inspect their homes.
Sellers are not required to fix the weaknesses before they sell their homes.
46
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
Residential Earthquake Hazards Report (2005 Edition)
NAME
ASSESSOR’S PARCEL NO.
STREET ADDRESS
YEAR BUILT
CITY AND COUNTY
ZIP CODE
Answer these questions to the best of your knowledge. If you do not have actual knowledge as to whether the weakness exists, answer
“Don’t Know.” If your house does not have the feature, answer “Doesn’t Apply.” The page numbers in the right-hand column indicate
where in this guide you can find information on each of these features.
No
Doesn’t
Apply
Don’t
Know
See
Page
1. Is the water heater braced, strapped, or anchored to resist falling during an earthquake?
12
2. Is the house anchored or bolted to the foundation?
14
3. If the house has cripple walls:
• Are the exterior cripple walls braced?
16
• If the exterior foundation consists of unconnected concrete piers and posts, have
they been strengthened?
18
4. If the exterior foundation, or part of it, is made of unreinforced masonry, has it been
strengthened?
20
5. If the house is built on a hillside:
• Are the exterior tall foundation walls braced?
22
• Were the tall posts or columns either built to resist earthquakes or have they been
strengthened?
22
6. If the exterior walls of the house, or part of them, are made of unreinforced masonry,
have they been strengthened?
24
7. If the house has a living area over the garage, was the wall around the garage door
opening either built to resist earthquakes or has it been strengthened?
26
8. Is the house outside an Alquist-Priolo Earthquake Fault Zone (zones immediately
surrounding known earthquake faults)?
9. Is the house outside a Seismic Hazard Zone (zone identified as susceptible to liquefaction
or landsliding)?
To be reported on the
Natural Hazards Disclosure
Report
36
36
Keep your copy of this form for future reference
Yes
If any of the questions are answered “No,” the house is likely to have an earthquake weakness. Questions answered “Don’t Know” may
indicate a need for further evaluation. If you corrected one or more of these weaknesses, describe the work on a separate page.
As seller of the property described herein, I have answered the questions above to the best of my knowledge in an effort to disclose fully
any potential earthquake weaknesses it may have.
EXECUTED BY
_____________________________
______________________________
(Seller)
(Seller)
_________
Date
I acknowledge receipt of this form, completed and signed by the seller. I understand that if the seller has answered “No” to one or more
questions, or if seller has indicated a lack of knowledge, there may be one or more earthquake weaknesses in this house.
_____________________________
______________________________
(Buyer)
(Buyer)
_________
Date
This earthquake disclosure is made in addition to the standard real estate transfer disclosure statement also required by law.
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
47
48
The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
RM
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P
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SA ta Clara
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The Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
49
California
ENERGYCOMMISSION
What is y o u r
know before you buy or sell
Lower your energy bills
Enjoy a safer, more comfortable
and durable home
Reduce your impact on the environment
Increase your home’s sales appeal
and appraisal value
U
P
D
A
T
E
D
F
O
R
2
0
1
1
“
is y o u r
Whether you are buying
or selling a residential
property, or staying in
your current home, every
Californian should know
his or her home
energy rating.
“
What
Contents
Know the Facts
4
What Is a Home Energy Rating?
5
Understanding Your HERS Index
6
HERS Recommendations
7
Making Wise Improvements
8
Utility Bills and Ratings
9
Financing Your Improvements
10
Efficiency Adds Value
12
Go Solar California!
13
California is a national leader in promoting energy efficiency. As a result, our energy use per person has
remained stable for over 30 years while the national average has steadily increased. Despite this success,
we must continue to reduce energy use in our homes. The benefits are highly valuable — reducing energy
use not only lowers your energy bills, but helps our electricity system remain reliable, even during high
peak-load periods, while also protecting our environment.
In 2006, California established aggressive goals to reduce greenhouse gases that cause global warming.
These goals will cut today’s carbon emissions by 25 percent, so we can return to 1990 levels by the year
2020. Efforts to accomplish this goal represent important first steps in addressing the threat of global
warming. We owe our children and grandchildren nothing less.
As you consider the sale or purchase of your home, this booklet asks that you recognize what energy
efficiency measures have been built into the home, or ways to make further improvements to save energy
and reduce peak electricity demand.
Your energy efficiency actions help make California a better, more environmentally sustainable place to
raise your families.
Whether you are buying or selling a residential
property, or staying in your current home, every
Californian should know his or her home energy
rating. Wasted energy wastes more than just
your money – it changes our climate. The scientific community agrees that we must act now or
risk facing an uncertain future.
improvements. This booklet explains how the
HERS program works and helps you find a
qualified professional to rate your own home.
Once you know your home energy rating, you
will be able to choose smart energy upgrades
and investments that will benefit your family
now… and generations to come.
The California Home Energy Rating System
(HERS) Program provides a reliable way to
estimate and compare the energy efficiency of
California homes and identify wise energy saving
3
During a real estate transaction, a California
HERS Rating is a great way to disclose facts
about the energy efficiency of a home.
Know the
FACTS
Whether you are getting ready to sell your home – or preparing to
buy one – knowing the energy efficiency facts about the property
is a major consideration. As buyers become more aware of the
benefits of an energy-efficient home, homes with a favorable home
energy rating may be more attractive to buyers.
Selling?
Buying?
A HERS rating will:
• Use a HERS rating to shop
• Help determine facts about
and compare the energy efthe energy efficiency of your
ficiency of homes you are
home.
considering.
• Identify energy improve• Learn about the most costments that may make your
effective options for lowering
home more attractive to
the energy bills in any home
buyers.
you are considering buying.
• Alert appraisers to add value • Identify and qualify for energy
for any energy improvements
efficiency financing.
you may have made already.
Staying in your current home?
•
•
•
•
•
Find out your HERS rating.
Discover the best options for lowering your energy bills.
Identify energy efficiency improvements that may also make
your home more comfortable.
Find resources to help finance your improvements.
Improve your home’s resale value.
Have you checked
your ducts?
Heating and cooling ducts in an
average California home leak
almost 30 percent. That is why
when heating or cooling equipment is replaced, testing the
system’s ducts for leaks is now
required by building officials in
many parts of the state.
If you are selling your home and
had upgrades made without the
required permits or duct testing,
be sure to disclose this on your
Real Estate Transfer Disclosure
Statement. If you are preparing
to buy a home that had duct work
performed after October 2005,
ask to see the duct testing report,
or an explanation as to why such
testing was not required.
For more information, visit:
www.energy.ca.gov/title24/changeout/
4
You wouldn’t buy a new car without knowing its “miles per gallon” rating. So why buy
a home without a “home energy rating?”
What is a
HOME
ENERGY
RATING
A Whole-House Home Energy Rating is a comprehensive evaluation of the efficiency of the entire home. The
homeowner receives a written report that includes a numeric score or “rating” of the home, plus recommendations for improvements that will reduce energy bills and make the home more comfortable. Knowing the
energy rating of your home is similar to knowing the miles per gallon rating of your car.
The California Energy Commission has developed the California Home Energy Rating System (HERS) Program
to cover almost every type of residence in California. This includes new and existing single-family homes and
multifamily buildings of three stories or less. Energy Commission-approved HERS Providers train, certify, and
oversee a new type of service professional known as a “California Whole-House Home Energy Rater.”
Each California HERS Rater must follow
standardized energy auditing procedures and use energy analysis software
that meets the Energy Commission’s
technical requirements. The HERS Rater
will inspect and assess all the major
energy efficiency features of your home:
•
•
•
•
•
Air leaks (sealed or unsealed)
Cooling system
Heating system
Water heating system
Heating and cooling ducts
and/or pipes
• Insulation (attic, walls, floor)
•
•
•
•
Windows
Attached lighting fixtures
Major appliances
Solar electricity generating
systems (if any)
• Other energy uses
Your HERS report will identify the most cost-effective and appropriate energy efficiency improvements
for your home. Only a properly prepared HERS Report will receive an official California Home Energy
Rating Certificate with the California Energy Commission’s seal.
Rating costs vary depending on factors such as the size and features of your home and the extent of rater
services needed. Ask your real estate agent for names of certified HERS Raters in your area or find an
Energy Commission-approved HERS Provider at: www.energy.ca.gov/HERS/index.html or call the Energy
Hotline at (800) 772-3300.
5
Your HERS Rating Certificate will:
• Display an official HERS Index efficiency rating on a
0 to 250-point scale.
• Itemize the home’s major energy-efficiency features
as determined by the HERS Rater.
• Estimate the home’s annual energy use, operating
cost, and greenhouse gas emissions.
• Calculate the amount of solar or other onsite renewable energy that the home may produce.
Understanding your
HERS index
What is your Home Energy Rating?
How low can it go?
A lower HERS Index indicates a more energy efficient home.
A home with a HERS Index of:
• “250” or more is likely to have very high energy bills, and many opportunities for efficiency improvements.
• “100” uses the same energy as a new home that meets California’s 2008 Building Energy Efficiency Standards.
• “0” is a super-efficient “Net Zero Energy Home” that consumes no more energy than it produces with solar or
other onsite renewable sources.
6
HERS Recommendations
Your HERS report will contain
detailed recommendations
so that you can learn about
all the improvements that are
cost-effective and appropriate
for your particular home. Here
are a few examples:
Test and seal air leaks
in building envelope
A pressure test will show
where the air is leaking
out so you can make your
home less drafty.
Increase attic insulation to R-38
Properly installed insulation
makes your home quieter
and more comfortable.
Test and seal air duct leaks
Almost every home in California
has leaky ducts, typically
wasting 30 percent or more.
Tune-up the heating
and cooling system
Proper maintenance
saves energy and
improves comfort
and safety.
Upgrade to a correctly sized
ENERGY STAR® furnace
A new ENERGY STAR® furnace
will run more quietly and keep
you warm all winter for less money.
7
Hire a Professional
Don’t trust just anyone to make your improvements. Trying to save a little can sometimes cost you more
in the long run. Instead, find one or more licensed specialty contractors who have the knowledge, tools,
and skills to do each job right. You may want to consider a “building performance” contractor who is a
licensed general contractor and is specially trained and certified to help address all of the energy and
comfort improvement opportunities in your home and make them work together as an efficient system.
The Contractors State License Board website www.cslb.ca.gov provides more information on how to
choose a qualified contractor.
Making
WISE
IMPROVEMENTS
Do it Yourself
Some improvements are so easy and inexpensive, you don’t need a HERS rating
to know they pay back quickly:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Replace incandescent bulbs with ENERGY STAR® compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs).
Replace all nightlights and holiday lights with light-emitting diodes (LEDs).
Choose ENERGY STAR® appliances, computers, and televisions.
Install low-flow showerheads and faucet aerators.
Insulate the first 5 feet of pipes from the cold and hot water heater.
Add or repair weather stripping on all doors and windows.
Use caulk and spray foam to fill all visible air gaps.
Clean or replace furnace air filters monthly.
Plant shade trees.
Energy Wise
HABITS
These no-cost tips will help reduce the
energy consumption in your home:
• Turn off lights and computers when
not in use.
• Use a power strip for televisions,
DVD players, VCRs, and chargers,
and turn off power to the strip
when not in use.
• Recycle burned-out CFL bulbs,
fluorescent tubes, televisions,
computer monitors, and all other
electronic waste.
• Unplug and recycle any inefficient
old refrigerators and freezers.
•
•
•
•
Use appliances efficiently. Use your
dishwasher and clothes washer for full
loads only. Use the cold water setting
on your clothes washer when possible.
Turn down the water heater to 120
degrees Fahrenheit.
Use your drapes properly. In the summer, close your drapes during the day.
In the winter, open your drapes during
the day and close your drapes at night.
Open your windows for natural ventilation
on cool summer mornings and nights.
8
A $100 per month reduction in your utility bills
frees up enough cash to pay for a $17,000 increase
in your mortgage (assuming 6 percent interest
over 30 years).
Utility Bills &
RATINGS
Home energy efficiency ratings are designed to help you focus on the
physical features of the house – not on other factors that can affect energy
consumption like unusual weather or personal energy use habits.
Utility bills give a personal perspective: the history of how much energy
the occupants of the home actually used over a period. Unless you consider a rating coupled with the utility bills, you may get only half of the story.
As a potential buyer, you should always ask to see the previous occupant’s
energy bills. While sellers are not obligated to share their utility bills,
many will if asked.
If the old bills have not been saved, current occupants can access their
records by calling the local utility or by setting up an account on the utility’s
website. Your HERS Rater can assist you in obtaining the bills and will consider them to establish a more complete picture of your home energy use
to make the best recommendations for improvements. A Home Buyers’
Energy Checklist that helps buyers ask questions related to the home’s
energy use is available at: www.energy.ca.gov/HERS/index.html.
Energy efficiency is different than energy consumption. Efficiency
depends upon the physical features of the home and all the equipment it contains. Consumption is reduced through efficiency
but also depends on the energy use behavior of the occupants.
Wasteful habits, unusual weather, or malfunctioning equipment
can drive up energy bills, even in the most energy-efficient house
in the neighborhood.
9
After your mortgage payment, your energy
bill is often the second largest monthly home
ownership expense.
Financing your
IMPROVEMENTS
If you are buying or refinancing and looking for a way to finance your
energy improvements, you should get advice from a knowledgeable
real estate agent or lender about the many new options now available.
The federal government, Fannie Mae/Freddie Mac, and many major
lenders are introducing new products to help you fund your energy
efficiency improvements. Some cities and counties also have programs
that allow homeowners to finance efficiency improvements and solar
installations over 20 years.
+
+
+
+
P r in c ip al
I nterest
Ta xes
I nsuran c e
Energ y
You may also be able to qualify for an Energy Efficient Mortgage (EEM). An
EEM is a loan program that recognizes the importance of the energy efficiency
of a home and allows for cost-effective energy upgrades to be financed in
the mortgage. A HERS rating is required to qualify for an EEM. These loans
provide borrowers the opportunity to make energy efficiency improvements to
their homes and gain several desirable benefits including:
•
•
•
•
True cost of owning
your home
Provide the ability to roll the cost of your efficiency improvements
into a low mortgage rate.
May stretch your debt-to-income qualifying ratio.
Enjoy your improvements and energy savings right away.
Earn a higher resale price when you sell.
Best of all, you get to enjoy all the benefits of your home improvements for
the same total monthly cost (PITI+E)…or maybe even less.
EEM programs are available from:
•
•
•
•
Federal Housing Authority (FHA)
Veterans Administration (VA)
Conventional lenders (Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac)
Other home-buyer or refinancing programs
10
Combine an EEM with other programs and you may be able to borrow
up to $40,000 or more for efficiency improvements. Ask a knowledgeable lender if an EEM is right for you.
Another way to finance energy improvements is through an equity loan
or equity line of credit. If your HERS rating is low enough, some lenders
may offer a “green” mortgage or equity line of credit at a discount relative to their regular interest rates or points. Shop around to see if these
products make sense for you. Utilities also offer financial incentives
such as re-bates, for energy smart improvements, such as:
•
•
•
•
•
•
Added insulation
ENERGY STAR® appliances
Refrigerator recycling
High-efficiency heating and air conditioning systems
Compact fluorescent light fixtures
Whole-house fans, cool roofs, swimming pool pump motors, and more
Contact your local utility for information on their program offerings.
Manufacturers also offer discounts or rebates on efficient products so
check their websites or with a retailer for possible offers.
11
It’s no secret; energy efficiency features may
make your home more valuable and sell faster.
Federal tax credits now available include:
Efficiency
ADDS VALUE
10 percent of the cost, up to $500
30 percent of the cost, with no
or a specific amount from $50-$300, upper limit through 2016 (existing
through 2011 (existing homes only)
homes and new construction) for:
for:
• Geothermal Heat Pumps
• Windows and Doors
• Small Wind Turbines (Residential)
• Biomass Stoves
• Solar Energy Systems
• Insulation
• Roofs
• HVAC
For more news on energy efficiency tax credits,
• Water Heaters
visit: w w w. e n e r g y s t ar.g ov/ t a xc r e d i t s
Did You K no w ?
•
A study of energy-efficient homes in The Appraisal Journal showed
that a $1 reduction in annual energy bills resulted in more than $10
increase in resale value.
•
A past president of the California Association of Real Estate
Appraisers recommends that appraisals account for any efficiency
improvements because they “so contribute to the habitability,
enjoyability and economic stability of the home.”
•
FHA authorizes the cost of energy efficiency measures to be added
to the mortgage.
•
Home builders find that homes with efficiency and solar electricity
upgrades sell faster and at higher prices than similar homes nearby.
Make sure your real estate agent knows about any efficiency improvements you have made, let buyers know your home is “Energy-Rated,”
and give the appraiser a copy of your HERS Report.
The energy used in the average home produces roughly twice as much greenhouse gas
pollution as the average car (US EPA).
12
Once you have made all appropriate energy efficiency improvements, you may also want to
consider solar electric generation.
If you have already decided on
the size of solar electric system,
investing in energy efficiency
measures first will allow your
solar system to power more of
your home’s electricity need. Plan
ahead and don’t oversize your new
solar electric system to power an
energy-inefficient house. Your
HERS Rater will show you how.
California has set a goal to generate
3,000 megawatts of new, solarproduced electricity by 2017 — moving
the state toward a cleaner energy
future and lowering the cost of solar
systems for all consumers. The California Solar Initiative offers incentives up
to 30 percent off the installed cost of a
solar system for a typical home. This
discount may be combined with any
federal tax credits or other incentives
available.
Visit
www.gosolarcalifornia.ca.gov
for details.
13
The California Energy Commission does not
endorse any product, supplier, manufacturer,
builder or organization.
The text in this booklet is designed to be
informational and not all-inclusive.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
ADVISORY COMMITTEE
Arlene Baxter
Mike Bachand
Elizabeth Gavric
Greg Harding
Shery Hoellwarth
Paula B. Howell
William Jansen
Jana Maddux
Scott Muldavin
William Neece
Chris Neri
William Poulton
Randal Riedel
Charles Segerstrom
Bernie Stephan
REALTOR®, Berkeley, CA
CalCERTS, Inc.
California Association of REALTORS®, Government
Affairs
Office of Real Estate Appraisers
ConSol, Inc.
Energy Documentation Services
Broker Risk Management
CHEERS®
Green Building Finance Consortium; The Mauldavin
Company
Green Key Real Estate
California Department of Real Estate
California Real Estate Inspection Association
California Building Performance Contractors Association
Pacific Gas & Electric Company
Broker, Marin County
PROJECT CONSULTANTS
Tom Conlon
Charles Eley
Margaret Kapranos
Dan Suyeyasu
Andrew Waegel
GeoPraxis, Inc.
Architectural Energy Corporation
REALTOR®, Greenbrae, CA
Architectural Energy Corporation
GeoPraxis, Inc.
ADDITIONAL CONTRIBUTORS
Rashid Mir
Betty LaFranchi
Vanessa Byrd
Bruce Maeda
Beverly Duffy
Parker Scott
Lance DeLaura
California Energy Commission
California Energy Commission
California Energy Commission
California Energy Commission
California Energy Commission
California Energy Commission
SEMPRA
CALIFORNIA
E N E R G Y CO M M I S S I O N
Governor
Jerry Brown
Chairman
Robert Weisenmiller, Ph.D.
Vice Chairman
James D. Boyd
Commissioners
Karen Douglas
Carla Peterman
Anthony Eggert
Executive Director
Robert Oglesby
Deputy Director
Efficiency and Renewable
Energy Division
Panama Bartholomy
Office Manager
High Performance Buildings and
Standards Development
Bill Pennington
Project Manager
Helen Lam
California Energy Commission
1516 Ninth Street, MS-37
Sacramento, CA 95814-5512
Need Help? Call the Energy Hotline
(800) 772-3300 or (916) 654-5106
CEC-400-2009-008-BR-REV1
June 2011
Prepared by:
Architectural Energy Corporation
San Francisco, California
Contract No. 400-05-020
Photo on page 4 courtesy of The Energy Conservatory.
Photos on page 7 courtesy of: National Renewable Energy
Laboratory, CertainTeed, and Carrier.
CUT HERE
Property Address:
I have received a copy of the WHAT IS YOUR HOME
ENERGY RATING? booklet (CEC-400-2009-008-BR-REV1)
Buyer’s Signature
Printed Name
Date
Buyer’s Signature
Printed Name
Date
Buyer’s Agent Signature
Printed Name
Date
Broker’s Name
Seller’s Signature
Printed Name
Date
Seller’s Signature
Printed Name
Date
Listing Agent’s Signature
Printed Name
Date
Broker’s Name
ALL SIGNERS SHOULD RETAIN A COPY OF THIS PAGE FOR THEIR RECORDS
California Civil Code Section 2079.10 states that if this booklet is provided to
the buyer by the seller or broker, then this booklet is deemed to be adequate
to inform the home buyer about the existence of California Home Energy
Rating Program.
For more information, visit: www.energy.ca.gov/HERS/index.html
CONSUMER INFORMATION ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
To Whom It May Concern:
I, the undersigned, acknowledge receipt of the “Homeowner’s Combined Information Guides” booklet
which includes the following publications:
I. Residential Environmental Hazards - A Guide for Homeowners, Homebuyers, Landlords and
Tenants
California Environmental Protection Agency – 2011 Update
II. Protect Your Family From Lead in Your Home
United States Environmental Protection Agency
III. Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
State of California Seismic Safety Commission
IV. HERS- What is Your Home Energy Rating?
California Energy Commission
Property Address:
Buyer’s Signature:
Date:
Buyer’s Signature:
Date:
Selling Agent’s Signature:
Date:
Property Address:
Seller’s Signature:
Date:
Seller’s Signature:
Date:
Listing Agent’s Signature:
Date:
Homeowner’s Combined Information Guides
Tel: 1-800-TOCOVER (800-862-6837)
Fax: 1-800-308-1460
www.homewarranty.com
Tel: 1-800-880-9123
Fax: 1-800-287-8673
www.disclosuresource.com
Enclosed Publications Include:
■
Residential Environmental Hazards−
A Guide For Homeowners, Homebuyers, Landlords and Tenants
California Environmental Protection Agency - 2011 UPDATE
■
Protect Your Family From Lead In Your Home
United States Environmental Protection Agency
■
Homeowner’s Guide to Earthquake Safety
State of California Seismic Safety Commission
■
HERS - What is Your Home Energy Rating?
California Energy Commission
Compliments of Fidelity National Home Warranty and Disclosure Source