AKOGENIUS
AKOSIL WAX
AKEST LINE SX / TX / VX
AKOSIL WAX - Silicone Waxes
The amount of silicone for a given alkyl
length in the molecule, changes hardness.
Alkyl Dimethicone
They contain silicone groups (red) and alkyl groups (green).
CH3
CH3
CH3
CH3
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|
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CH3-Si-(- O—Si-)a—(O-Si -)b-O-Si-CH3
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CH3
CH3
(CH2)17 CH3
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CH3
It is this dichotomy that makes them amphillic and of interest in
modifying esters.
AKOSIL WAX - Silicone Waxes
The length
of the alkyl chain has a
dramatic effect upon the melt point of the
wax.
Waxes based upon alkyl groups having between 12 and
16 carbon units are liquids at room temperature.
At carbon lengths of 18 and above products become
solid and the melt point increases as the carbon length
goes up.
Alkyl Dimethicone
They contain silicone groups (red) and alkyl groups (green).
CH3
CH3
CH3
CH3
|
|
|
|
CH3-Si-(- O—Si-)a—(O-Si -)b-O-Si-CH3
|
|
|
|
CH3
CH3
(CH2)17 CH3
|
CH3
It is this dichotomy that makes them amphillic and of interest in
modifying esters.
AKOSIL WAX - Silicone Waxes
Understanding these trends allow for the selection of a
wax for the specific application chosen.
All silicone waxes offer improved oil solubility over silicone fluids.
fluids.
Waxes added to oil phases offer an ability to alter the viscosity
viscosity and
skin feel of a formulation.
The play time at a given melt point can be altered by (a) selecting
the specific alkyl chain (melt point) and (b) adding differing amounts
of silicone to the molecule (hardness).
AKOSIL WAX AVAILABLE
AKOSIL
SUNWAX (Cetyl Dimethicone)
Compatible with organics ingredients
Substantive to skin
Moisturizer
Enhance SPF of Inorganic and Organic
Sunscreen
Improves shine in skin and hair
Reduce whitening in AP
AKOSIL WAX AVAILBLE
AKOSIL
SFWAX (Stearyl Dimethicone)
Melts on contact with skin
Compatible with many organic ingredients
Substantive to skin
Moisturises
Non-acnegenic
Non-comedogenic
AKEST ESTERS
Esters are a class of materials that contain two alkyl groups. They
T hey
conform to the following structure;
R -C(O)
C(O)--OR
OR’’
These materials are commonly used in personal care products as oil
oil
phases.
While water insoluble, they are more polar than hydrocarbon based
based
oils.
These materials are used as emollients, lubricants and sun care
additives.
Esters generally have a surface tension of around 32 dynes/cm2.
Complex Esters
When esters are made from di -hydroxy compounds, tritri-hydroxy
compounds or tetra hydroxy compounds they are
referred to as complex esters.
Examples are:
Diester
R -C(O)
C(O)--O-(CH2CH2O)4C(O)
(CH2CH2O)4C(O)--R
INCI: PEG -4 dicocoate and stearyl dimethicone
Triester
CH 33-CH2
CH2-- C-(CH2OC(O)
(CH2OC(O)--R)3
INCI Names: Trimethylolpropane Tricaprate/tri caprylate
Tetraester
C -(CH2OC(O)
(CH2OC(O)--R)4
INCI: Pentaerythrityl tertacaprate/tetracaprylate
Many other complex esters are possible. They result from modification
modification
of the fatty group, modification of the hydroxy compound or both.
both.
Ester / Silicone Compositions
Complex esters in addition to being of interest themselves, have been
found to have very interesting interactions
with alkyl silicones resulting in modification of wetting, spreading,
viscosity and gel formation. These properties are of extreme interest to
cosmetic formulators.
The AKEST LINE of esters include the complex esters and alkyl
silicone modifications which allow the
formulator new flexibility in making products.
Why Combine Esters and
Alkyl Dimethicone?
Organo-functional silicone compounds are amphillic materials. That is
they have an oil soluble group and a silicone
soluble group on the same molecule. While both groups are
hydrophobic (water hating) they are not soluble as
pure materials in each other, Oil soluble groups are oleophilic and
silicone groups are siliphilic.
Alkyl silicones are soluble in esters. That is they form clear solutions.
Despite this clarity, the concentration of the
silicone is highest at the surface and in micelles. It is exactly this
behavior that allows for the modification of
esters by adding specific alkyl silicone compounds.
Functional Properties
Improved Oil Solubility
Viscosity and skin feel can be varied
Play time
Skin Feel
Alter Skin Properties
Concentration Effect
Alkyl Dimethicone compounds added at below their CMC
Lower surface tension
Improve Slip
Improve play time
Improve spreadability
Alkyl Dimethicone compounds added at their CMC
Begin to form micelles
Increase viscosity
Increase play time
Alkyl Dimethicone compounds added at at higher levels
Provide gels
Liquify under pressure
Provide outstanding aesthetics.
AKEST SX
INCI: Pentaerythrityl tertacaprate/tetracaprylate
CAS: 68441-68-9
EINECS: 270-474-3
AKEST SX is a complex ester that has a light feel on the skin.
It provides a dry feel when used as an emollent.
TRADE NAME
Pentaerythrityl
tertacaprate/tetracapr
ylate
Stearyl dimethicone
Apparence
AKEST SX
100%
-
liquid
AKEST SX-A
99.5%
0.5%
liquid
AKEST SX-C
95%
5%
solid
AKEST TX
INCI: Trimethylolpropane Tricaprate/tricaprylate
CAS: 8130-52-9
EINECS: 268-591-1
is a complex ester of C8-C10 fatty acid and trimethylol propane.
is an emollient skin ester.
TRADE NAME
Trimethylolpropane
Tricaprate/tricaprylate
Stearyl dimethicone
Apparence
AKEST TX
100%
-
liquid
AKEST TX-A
99.5%
0.5%
liquid
AKEST TX-C
95%
5%
solid
AKEST VX
INCI: Trimethylolpropane Tricocoate
CAS: 85566-29-6
EINECS: 271-347-5
is a complex ester of coconut fatty acid. It has a low viscoisity
TRADE NAME
Trimethylolpropane
Tricocoate
Stearyl dimethicone
Apparence
AKEST VX
100%
-
liquid
AKEST VX-A
99.5%
0.5%
liquid
AKEST VX-C
95%
5%
solid
Thank you