Instructions - pinup-perm

Styling the nation since 1945
The Dita
The Dita look is another style foundation method
using a classic perm wind. In the 1940’s and 1950’s
it was very common for women to use a curly perm
as support for roller setting and pin curl techniques.
These roller sets and Pin Curls created the famous
‘Pin Up’ look of many Hollywood film stars of the
day. The 2010’s have brought about resurgence
for the ‘Pin UP’ style and the Dita is the definitive
version of this particular look.
For ‘The Dita’ you will also require setting rollers in
order to achieve your finished ‘Dita’ look once the
perm has been completed.
To achieve the ‘Dita’ look you will need the
following from www.pinup-perm.com:1 x Pin Up Clarifying Shampoo 250ml
2 x Pin Up Full Head
6 x Packs of Pin Up Perm Rods Small
(Tighter Curl x 12)
1 x Pin Up Pre Perm Spray 150ml
1 x Pin Up Setting Lotion 100ml
1 x Pack of Sectioning Clips (9 clips required)
1 x Tail Comb
1 x Plastic Bowl
You will also need:Cotton Wool, Cling Film, Kitchen Towel, Large Setting
Rollers, A Paddle Brush, Heated Rollers, Mousse
and Serum.
Instructions
Step One – Preparation
Wash the hair several times in the Clarifying Shampoo
and towel dry gently. Comb the hair fully before
commencing the perming treatment. After clarifying,
commence your perm immediately whilst the hair is
still wet or damp.
Step Two – Sectioning
The winding technique used to achieve ‘The Dita’ is a
known as a classic ‘Nine Section Wind’ which means
prior to commencing the winding (of your perm) you
need to section the hair off into nine parts.
The Sectioning should be done in the following
formation:Top of head = 3 sections
Sides of head = 2 sections per side
Back of head = 4 sections (including crown section)
The idea is to work on the winding of each section at a
time and can choose whether to start winding from the
nape section or the front hairline section. As a general
rule, begin winding at the back/nape section if you
feel your arms may tire mid-way through the winding
process. For the purposes of this guide the winding of
the perm will commence at the front (hairline section).
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Styling the nation since 1945
Step Three – Winding
Take a section of hair (1.5 inches in length) from the
very front of the hairline (directly above the nose).
If you have natural (untreated hair) you can predampen each section with Waving Lotion and Pin
Up Pre Perm treatment as you wind. To do this,
firstly spray the combed section with a little ‘Pin up
Pre Perm Treatment’ and comb through, then pour
a little Waving Lotion into a plastic bowl and carefully
saturate the sponge.
Shake off any excess drips from the sponge into the
bowl and then (using the sponge) apply the waving
lotion to the section about to be wound around the
rod. Once you have applied the waving lotion, comb
smooth and apply a perm paper to the end of the
section. Now take a Curl Rod and begin winding
the ends of the hair around the rod with tension and
downward toward the scalp. Remember to wind the
rod firmly and keep it even holding both ends of the
rod as you wind downward. Check the rod is sitting
firmly on your scalp and directly between the eyebrow
area before fastening the rubber band.
PLEASE NOTE
Only pre dampen each section with Waving Lotion
(before winding the Curl Rod) if the hair is natural
(untreated), resistant or has been subjected to
only semi-permanent hair colour. If your hair has
been treated with regular permanent colour only
wind the rods (on the Dita technique) using water.
If your hair is fine or highlighted use only ‘Pin Up
Pre Perm Treatment’ to wind your perm and do not
apply any Waving Lotion until the entire head has
been wound. This technique is known as
Post Dampening.
1.1 Winding Top Section
After winding the first rod (at the front hairline) take a
section of hair immediately behind the first rod
you have just wound and repeat the above process.
One you have fastened the band, you should have
two rods sitting one directly behind the other.
Now take a third section immediately behind the second
and repeat, creating three rods in close succession
positioned directly over the nose area. Remember to
ensure each rod section has been combed smooth
before winding and always wind with tension.
Wind your first sectioned area of the nine in the above
way, always directing the hair around the rod and
backward. Once you have wound your first section,
unfasten the second (at the top of the head toward
the crown) and repeat with the above winding steps.
1.2 Winding Back Section
Continue the winding technique going backward and
over the head and moving down into the back sections.
The rods should form a continual back to back effect
starting from the front hairline and working down all
the way to the back hairline. All the back sections
need to be wound in this way.
1.3 Winding Side Sections
Principle of winding the side sections is similar to the
front, however you must start at the top of the side
section (directly underneath the top rods already wound)
and work the hair (and rods) down the head so the ends
of the rod sit directly along the front hairline.
These side section winds should also follow the same
formation with one rod positioned immediately after
another. With a Nine Section wind, you can sometimes
find a very small area of hair between the side and
the back sections which has not been wound as the
section fitted into neither the front nor the back areas.
If this occurs simply wind these sections ‘downward’
and in immediate succession just as you have the
rest of the hair.
Step Four – Applying the Waving Lotion
With the Nine Section wind it’s a good idea to place a
roll of Cotton wool along your hairline (front and back)
securing underneath the Curl Rods you have just
wound. This prevents drips from the Waving Lotion
running onto the face. If you haven’t already been
post dampening with the Waving Lotion, pour the
contents of the Waving Lotion bottle into a plastic bowl
and gently saturate the sponge. Ensure any surplus
(from the sponge) drips into the bowl, before carefully
‘dabbing’ along each rod to coat in Waving Lotion.
The cleanest method is to wrap a towel around your
shoulders and start at the crown section and work
your way down to the nape. This way the lotion
will drip downward onto the rods sitting directly
underneath.
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Styling the nation since 1945
Once you have applied lotion to the back section,
move onto the side sections and starting at the top of
these sections dab the Waving Lotion from the top of
the side section, down to the bottom – on both sides
of the head. Lastly, apply the waving lotion to the top
section, make sure you are tilting your head back and
start at the crown section and move forward, finishing
at the first rod on the hairline. Always ensure your
head is tilted back when applying Waving Lotion to
the top section as this will prevent drips running onto
your face.
Once you have applied the Waving Lotion to all rods,
and you can see no more drips are running from the
rods, you can remove the cotton wool and wrap the
head in cling film. Tightly wrap all the rods in the cling
film and (ideally) wrap another towel around the head
to trap in the heat.
Step Five – Processing
Refer to the processing information in the ‘Perm Guide’
in order to time the development of the Waving Lotion.
It’s crucial you conduct a test curl before rinsing the
Waving Lotion off the hair to ensure the perm has
sufficiently taken.
Step Six – Rinsing
Once you have achieved your desired test curl result,
blot all the rods carefully with kitchen paper. Blotting
the rods prior to rinsing ensures any excess Waving
Lotion is thoroughly removed from the surface of the
hair. Begin rinsing the hair with warm (not hot) water
and ensure each rod is subjected to a good water flow
and ‘patted’ to shake out any Waving Lotion which
may be inside the hair. Rinsing of a nine section perm
should take around five minutes as it’s important all
Waving Lotion is thoroughly removed from the hair.
Step Seven – Resting the Hair
After you have thoroughly rinsed the rods for five
minutes, carefully wrap your head in a towel and
pat all excess moisture from the rods. To give some
additional hydration you can liberally spray ‘Pin Up
Pre Perm’ treatment onto all the rods, patting the
treatment into each rod before wrapping the head back
up in the towel. Leaving the hair to rest for 30 minutes
prior to applying the neutraliser will allow excess
moisture within the hair to dissipate and enable better
neutralisation. After letting the hair rest for around
30 minutes you can proceed to Neutralising.
Step Eight - Neutralising
After the 30 minutes have passed remove the towel
and apply the Neutraliser directly from the applicator
nozzle provided. Ensure the foam covers each rod
fully, once each rod has been covered in Neutraliser
foam leave to develop for 5 minutes. During these 5
minutes the foam should dissipate.
After the five minutes have elapsed, you can begin
removing the perm rods from the hair. Start at the back
(nape) section and gently unwind the rods, disposing
of the end paper and placing the perm rod into the sink
for subsequent washing. Work your way up the back
of the head carefully removing each perm rod in turn.
Once you have removed the back section, remove
the rods from the side sections. Lastly remove the
rods from the top of the head and the front hairline.
You should now see your perm in its wet state. Apply
the foam neutraliser into the palm of your hands and
taking the foam gently ‘scrunch’ it into your new curls,
re-applying the Neutraliser foam in this way to your
whole head - once the foam has been re-applied to
the unwound curls, leave to develop for a further 5
minutes. After 5 minutes you can rinse your hair for
several more minutes to flush away any remaining
neutraliser. After this point your perm is complete.
Step Nine – Setting
The Dita Technique will produce a curly perm result
in its wet state and whilst some people may choose
to leave their hair curly, most people apply the perm
to create style hold and longevity once their hair is
wound on setting rollers. For best results (with the
Dita Technique) it is recommended immediately
after rinsing the neutraliser, the hair is lightly towel
dried, combed out and wound on setting rollers.
In general you can Roller set the hair with mousse
or setting lotion, however on the day your perm
has been conducted, ‘Pin Up Pre Perm’ treatment
is the recommended aid to roller set the hair with.
Immediately after a perm the hair does not tend to
need styling aids such as Mousse or Setting Lotion,
using Pin Up Pre Perm Treatment to wind the rollers
into the hair will give a softer finish to the final result
and continue to hydrate the hair.
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Styling the nation since 1945
To create your ‘Pin Up’ Dita look:• Lightly towel dry the hair and apply a liberal amount
of Pin Up Pre Perm Treatment to the hair, once
applied comb the hair thoroughly and locate your
parting.
• Working from your chosen parting, take larger
sections of hair and comb smooth. Wrap the section
(again smoothly) around a large setting roller. Ensure
you wind with tension and ‘smooth’ the hair so any
crinkles or waves disappear.
• Work your way through the head winding the setting
rollers in this way, you should aim to apply around
a dozen rollers to the head.
• It’s crucial the rollers are applied neatly and in
a directional pattern, this will evoke a soft and
shapely result.
• Once the hair is 100% dry, carefully remove the rollers
and use a vent or paddle brush to vigorously brush
the hair out, brush the hair in various directions to
break up the roller set pattern, do not worry about
messing the hair up as the perm foundation will hold
the set in place. To give some added shine at this
stage you can use a little serum.
• Once you have vigorously brushed the hair
(in varying directions), begin to brush and comb
your hair into its desired shape.
• You should find the hair moulds around your
hands perfectly.
• Once combed into place your set style should
remain intact until your next wash.
• After washing (and in the future) you can repeat
this method using a setting lotion or mousse.
• Once all the rollers are wound, leave the hair to dry
naturally or use a hood dryer. (NB Immediately after
a perm the hair will absorb water more so than usual,
therefore do not be surprised if your hair takes twice
the time (than usual) to dry fully.
• After the perm is several weeks old you can also
use the Pin Curl method of winding. However
immediately after conducting your perm, the hair
is typically too curly to create the barrels required
for the pin curl effect.
• Check the rollers are 100% dry before removing.)
• If you require more volume, try leaving your curly
perm to dry naturally and then applying heated
rollers to the hair, to smooth out the curl but retain
the volume.
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