PROGRAMME 3
THE NORMAN CONQUEST
OF PEMBROKESHIRE
Introduction.
We’re walking through Pembrokeshire and Britain’s only coastal national park to
discover how a group of French-speaking warriors turned this corner of Wales into a
place still known as ‘Little England beyond Wales’.
Home to miles of rugged coast line, beautiful beaches and incredible wildlife, it’s a
landscape and culture heavily shaped by the Normans. Unlike the knockout victory of
Hastings, this conquest was a long, fiercely fought struggle. Over time the Normans
turned a Welsh speaking Kingdom into an English speaking shire dominated by castles,
churches and the amazing cathedral in the city of St Davids.
Walking Through History
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Day 1 .
From St Davids, we’ll make our way along the coastal cliffs, learning about the Norman’s first
meetings with the native Welsh. We’ll start by walking in the footsteps of England’s greatest
warrior king – William the Conqueror.
 St Davids to Newgale via Pembrokeshire Coastal Path
Distance: 10 miles
Day 2 .
Heading inland, we’re walking the rough frontier the Norman’s fought to create with the rest of
Wales. We’ll trace this boundary – or Landsker Line – that formed as Normans and Flemings
flooded in, past early defences at Hayscastle and Wolfcastle. Climbing Great Treffgarne
Mountain gives the perfect look out over the landscape facing the invaders. Finally we head
south-west, to discover how the native Welsh fought back as I reach Wiston.
 Newgale to Wiston via Hayscastle, Wolfcastle and Great Treffgarne Mountain
Distance: 20 miles
Day 3 .
The River Cleddau is our guide on Day 3, as we find out how a stunning welsh princess seduced
Normans, Welsh and English alike. Yesterday we learnt how the Normans invaded and conquered
a huge swathe of this county. Today we will find out what they were doing on that newly won
land, how they were transforming it into a place some now call Little England. Today starts with
a boat trip, running down with the stream from Slebech.
Back on dry land we’ll be walking the riverbanks before turning south to find the most
fascinating Welsh woman of her age at Carew Castle.
 Wiston to Carew via the River Cleddau and Carew Castle
Distance: 14 miles
Day 4 .
Finally, we’ll reach the southern shore, and discover the rich and unique culture of Norman
Pembrokeshire. They married Welsh princesses and brought in peasants from as far afield as
Flanders. Leaving Carew we return to the coast and the seaside valley of Manorbier - home of
our 12th century guide, Gerald of Wales.
From there we’ll walk the beaches and cliffs of the southern coast, before a celebratory drink
with some Pembrokeshire locals in the Stackpole Inn. On our final day, we’ll discover the lasting
culture this new cosmopolitan society created.
 Carew to Stackpole via Manorbier and the Stackpole Inn
Distance: 12 miles
Please use OS Explorer Maps OL35 and OL36 (1:25k) or OS Landranger Maps 157 and 158 (1:50k). All distances
approx.
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Walking Through History
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Day 1 – Places of Interest .s
St Davids to Newgale via
Pembrokeshire Coastal
Path
Distance: 10 miles
We begin our walk in St Davids, officially the smallest city in Britain. As we stroll down the High Street we’re
walking in the footsteps of William the Conqueror. The world famous cathedral is set beside the River Alun
just off The Pebbles at the west end of the High Street.
St David’s Cathedral
A monastery was founded on this site by St David in the 6th
Century. William the Conqueror came here in 1081, 15
years after crushing Harold at Hastings. According to The
Welsh Chronicle, he came on a pilgrimage, but he brought
almost his entire army, suggesting it was also a show of
strength. The pilgrimage was perhaps a cover for what was
in reality a politically-motivated expedition. Rhys ap Tudor
was the new and powerful ruler of South Wales and William
may well have been concerned about possible Welsh
renewal threatening his own barons. Construction of the
present cathedral began later, in the 12th century, and
while various periods are represented in the architecture,
here you can see distinctly Norman columns and the arches at its core.
Now the real walk starts as we head to one of the most
celebrated coastal walks in Britain. Pick up the footpath
heading south out of the city towards St Non’s Bay and
the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path. While pushing eastwards
we can’t but wonder at the beautiful scenery. Walkers,
kayakers and sailors all come here to soak in this
remarkable landscape. And, for wildlife lovers, it really
does have a bit of everything. Look out for rare birds
such as choughs, skylarks and the stonechat. Atlantic
grey seals give birth on the shore, while dolphins and
porpoises are playing in the waves. If you’re very lucky
indeed you might catch a glimpse of basking sharks, blue
sharks, orcas or turtles.
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Walking Through History
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A Journey Through Wales
We’re making use of a handy guide, but not one you might expect. The Journey Through Wales and The
Description of Wales by Gerald of Wales (quite a mouthful) describes the main sights and history of the
region around 800 years ago. Gerald was a local. He was a priest and received a good education, in no
small part thanks to being the great grandson of the Welsh King Rhys. He toured the region in the late
1100s and his books read like diaries. He notes that Welsh choirs were popular in his day ‘joining
together to produce a single organic harmony and melody’. They may have been musical but this was the
middle ages. ‘They’re light and agile. They are fierce rather than strong and totally dedicated to the
practice of arms. Not only the leaders but the entire nation are trained in war.’ He even comments on
their character, asserting that ‘The Welsh rarely keep their promises, for their minds are as fickle as their
bodies are agile.’
Three miles along the cliffs we pass through the valley
of Nine Elms. As we approach the golden shimmer of
Newgale Sands it’s easy to appreciate what a vital
geographical crossroads this was. Ireland’s just across
the sea to the west, Devon and Cornwall across the
water in a southerly direction, and you can see the rest
of South Wales snaking away ahead of you. After 10
miles of dramatic cliffs we’re dropping down to the
very sandy expanse that was the subject of one of
Gerald remarkable tales.
Newgale Sands: Noah’s Flood?
Gerald says that in his lifetime a huge storm hit this beach
and all the sand blew away, exposing a great sunken
forest, which he believed had been swallowed up during the
time of Noah. ‘Tree-trunks became visible, standing in the
sea, with their tops lopped off... The soil was pitch black
and the wood of the tree trunks shone like ebony.’
In 2013 there was another great storm here and low and
behold the sand was blown away to reveal remnants of an
ancient forest. Scientists have dated this wood back 10,000
years. It wasn’t Noah’s flood but rather rising seas following
the last Ice Age that submerged this forest.
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Walking Through History
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Day 2 – Places of Interest .s
Newgale to Wiston via
Hayscastle, Wolfscastle and
Great Treffgarne Mountain.
Distance: 20 miles
Into the county’s less visited interior our route follows the delightful Brandy Brook. Following the brook east
we then swing northwards to Gignoc. Here we turn right on the road before quickly taking a footpath off the
left hand side heading northeast to Hayscastle. A ‘Motte’ marked on the OS map alludes to the fact that
we’re now on a rough line of fortifications, but for a clearer example we’re pushing four miles due east to
Wolfscastle’s Motte and Bailey by the Western Cleddau.
Invasion
Twelve years after William the Conqueror’s first visit an
invasion finally took place in 1093. It wasn’t a royal
campaign but a privatised invasion, led by a band of
ambitious barons. Whereas William I had been able to keep
these nobles on a tight leash, his son, William Rufus, could
contain them no longer and gave them free reign to attack
Wales and claim new lands. King Rhys was determined to
defend his homeland. Welsh and Normans clashed in a
battle near the Brecon Beacons, but, as at Hastings, it was
the invaders who triumphed. Rhys was killed, his son exiled
and his daughter captured. Most of Pembrokeshire was now
seized by the Normans. The next year, however, the native
Welsh regrouped and fought back. Unlike at Hastings, this
was going to be a long drawn out affair, with decades of
guerilla warfare ahead. The Normans, therefore, set about
constructing line of fortifications to protect their hard
fought lands of Pembrokeshire. Wolfscastle was one such
example; a power base for the lord who held it and a way of turning conquered land into a family estate.
That pattern was repeated across Pembrokeshire, as Norman lords tried to stake a claim in this Wild West
of Wales.
Below Wolfscastle the Western Cleddau descends through a deep wooded gorge tucked in amongst the rolling
hills of the surrounding countryside. Follow the path south through the gorge and use the footpath to cross
over the railway and A40 over to Great Treffgarne Mountain.
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Walking Through History
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Fortifying the Frontier
From the top of this craggy rock you can see Wolfscastle
just to the north, and, further south Rudbaxton, Haverford
West and Camrose are similar fortifications, all guarding the
Western Cleddau valley. The history of this conquest was
shaped by the landscape.
Motte and baileys were a key piece of Norman military
hardware. The manmade hill of the motte was topped with
a wooden tower, while the outer bailey was protected with
a palisade fence. The Welsh hadn’t built fortifications like
this before. This was a new sort of fortress, very small and
quickly constructed. They were an obstacle to an army but
the Normans didn’t just use them for defence. They could
attack through raiding parties into northern Pembrokeshire and get back to safety before nightfall. It
would also be a residence and, as they developed, they would increasingly become the centre of an
aristocratic inheritance.
Pushing further south down the Treffgarne Gorge we’re following the paths that run alongside the railway line
to Scotlon Manor Country path. From here use the well-marked footpaths to the village of Wiston, three miles
south-east from here.
Wiston Castle
It was built by a knight over 20 years after the Normans’
first invasion here. ‘Wizo the Flem’ was one of a new breed
of professional conquerors, brought in during the reign of
the new king, Henry I. Henry had taken a keen interest in
Norman Pembrokeshire and believed the border had to be
strengthened. Over the years the Welsh besieged and
captured this motte three times suggesting Henry had a
point. Each time the Normans retook it and rebuilt it. And
900 years later this village is still called Wis-ton, meaning
Wizo’s place. Castles like this would guard Norman
Pembrokeshire for decades to come creating a border across
south-west Wales.
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© John Winterbottom via Wikimedia Commons
Walking Through History
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Day 3 – Places of Interest .s
Wiston to Carew via Slebech and Carew Castle
Distance: 14.5 miles
From the village of Wiston we’re heading south to Slebech on
the banks of the Cleddau. Gerald of Wales says that the word
Cleddau means ‘sword’, and it does appear to carve its way into
Pembrokeshire like a blade. Look out for shelducks, egrets and
kingfishers that live along its banks. We’ve now got the luxury of
a boat trip nine miles down the Deaugleddau Estuary to
Lawrenny Quay. However, you can take the Landsker
Borderlands Trail on the eastern bank if you’d prefer to walk. A
fantastic way to view the bountiful wildlife is by canoe or kayak.
Contact the Water Ranger of the Milford Haven Waterway or
Harbourmaster for more information.
Little England Beyond Wales
The Normans colonized areas that were always within a few
miles of coast or estuary. The rich farmlands on the banks
of this river were the spoils of conquest. But the Normans
considered farming to be beneath them so they brought
in outsiders to work the land for them. English were
brought in from the south-west of England, areas such as
Gloucestershire and Somerset. They were joined by
Flemings, from what is now the Netherlands and north
Belgium, but was then known as Flanders. Although it was
already an overpopulated region, Henry I gave the Flemish
good farming land in south Pembrokeshire, and the native
Welsh were driven to the hilly north. After the great storms of 1106 in Flanders there was a further influx.
This significantly changed the landscape, and the legacy is still very visible today. Little villages are
clustered together with fields running along straight lines around them. The fact that south Pembrokeshire
very quickly became a place where English was the most common language is testament to the sheer
numbers of English and Flemish arriving in this period. Eventually the area became known as ‘Little
England Beyond Wales’.
We’re stepping off the boat under seven miles downstream and back on foot, tramping another three miles
east to Cresswell. At Cresswell we’re swinging south across this soft beautiful landscape, farmed by the new
settlers, to Carew. Follow the path across Carew River at the dam and pass an old French Tidal Mill on route
to this stunning fortress.
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Walking Through History
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Carew Castle: Endless Romance
Today, the National Park calls this a place of ‘endless
romance’. In the early days of Norman Pembrokeshire, it
was home to one of the most romantic characters of the
era, Princess Nest. She’s been called the ‘Helen of Wales’
because of her fabulous looks and her many admirers. Many
admirers led to many children and descendants. It’s claimed
this Welsh princess is the ancestor of Henry VIII, Princess
Diana and even President John F. Kennedy.
Nest was the daughter of King Rhys, killed on the battlefield
by the Normans in 1093. Nest, at some point in her
contentious career, had an affair and illegitimate child
with Henry I. Henry had over 28 illegitimate children! Nest
was later married off to a Norman called Gerald de Windsor,
who was constable of Pembroke Castle. Her cousin, Owain
ap Cadwgan, attacked the castle while they were sleeping
and abducted Nest. Spending two years together, they went
on to have two children. But then her husband, Gerald of
Windsor, ran into Owain and killed him in 1116. With further
sexual relationships with other powerful men in the area,
many of her descendants were key players in Norman
Pembrokeshire. One was her grandson, our helpful guide,
Gerald of Wales.
© JKMMX via Wikimedia Commons
The site incorporates an 11th century Celtic cross, the only
restored tidal mill in Wales, a medieval bridge and picnic areas and circular walks that reward visitors
with uninterrupted views of the castle.
We’re resting our heads here for the night to make the most of this magnificent setting.
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Walking Through History
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Day 4 – Places of Interest .s
Carew to Stackpole via:
Manorbier and Freshwater East
Distance: 12 miles
Leaving Carew we’re returning to the coast and the seaside valley of Manorbier - home of our 12th century
guide, Gerald of Wales. Picking up the path south from near the tidal mill, we pass between Milton and Carew
Cheriton. When we hit Manorbier Newton we get onto a footpath heading south-east from Newton Court Farm
to Manorbier via Jameston. We’re passing straight through the village as we make a bee-line for the water
and a little extra coastal walking. When we hit the Pembrokeshire Coast Path we can admire the stunning
views as we approach Manorbier Bay from the east.
Manorbier: Heaven on Earth?
Manorbier has long attracted famous writers – Virginia Wolff,
Siegfried Sassoon and George Bernard Shaw all loved this
spot. But, before them all came Gerald of Wales.
Gerald describes the valley as the most pleasant and
productive in the whole of Wales. The sea is brim-filled with
fish and there’s a plentiful supply of wheat and wine. He
even claims that its air is like heaven’s breath!
© Martin Talbot via Wikimedia Commons
Born in Manorbier Castle in 1146, fifty years after the
Norman invasion, he could be accused of being biased, but
he was extremely well travelled. He would go on to become
a leading churchman, a courtier to King Henry II and the
writer of over 20 books.
From the Bay take a short detour up the valley to wonder at the spectacular ruins of Manorbier Castle.
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Walking Through History
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Manorbier Castle
It was supposedly built by Norman Knight Odo de Barri. His
son married Nest’s daughter and from that union sprang our
Gerald. He records his home as being ‘excellently well
defended by turrets and bulwarks… to the north and northwest, just beneath the walls is an excellent fish pond… On
the same side there is a most attractive orchard shut in
between the fishbond and a vineyard, with a great crag of
rock and hazelnut trees that grow to a great height.’
© Chaosdruid via Wikimedia Commons
The castle was ‘alarmed’ during his boyhood, which may
well have been in 1153 when Tenby, just up the coast, was
taken by the Welsh.
We’re pushing west to soak in some more magnificent coastal views. The landscape here is softer than up
north and the climate warmer. Indeed, they can grow potatoes here from early May. The source of this
warmth is the Gulf Stream that runs up from the Caribbean, so why not take a dip in the sandy waters of
Freshwater East.
Gerald: Archbishop of St Davids
Gerald was climbing the ranks of the church in the 1180s, just as the Norman cathedral began to rise
above St David’s. In many ways, Gerald’s career and that soaring church were the pinnacles of the
confident, distinctive culture of Norman Pembrokeshire. One of his leading ambitions was to become
Bishop of St. Davids, but also Archbishop, to form an independent province from Canterbury.
However, Gerald never succeeded in this mission. Despite being three quarters Norman, Gerald was
rejected. The King would be reluctant to allow something that could lead to claims of political
independence down the line. When in Wales, he was known as ‘Gerald the Englishman’ and when at the
English court, he was ‘Gerald the Welshman’. Not exclusively Welsh or English, this struggle with identity
comes through in his writings but in a way, Gerald was pure Pembrokeshire.
Veering off the coastal path, we’re making out way inland to enjoy a much needed drink at the Stackpole Inn.
Pembrokeshire’s Unique Legacy
While the boundaries are finally blurring a little, south
Pembrokeshire retains a distinct dialect. This bizarre dialect
really does owe a debt to the conquerors of nine centuries
ago. Whether it’s castles, cathedrals or the culture, the
Normans created so much of what we now know as ‘Little
England beyond Wales’.
In the year 1485, another army marched through
Pembrokeshire. This one was led by a highly ambitious
young Welshman called Henry Tudor, who is descended
from Rhys ap Tudor, who had been vanquished by the
Normans four centuries before.
It was from here that Henry started the march that would lead him to the English throne and founding of
the Tudor Dynasty.
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