ABOUT ISA CHANDRA MOSKOWITZ A vegan from Brooklyn? Isa Chandra Moskowitz may have grown up in the land of pizza and bagels with a shmear, but as a teenager, she had a revelation and went vegetarian, then vegan. Experimenting in her kitchen, Isa soon discovered that she didn’t need to rely on fake meat products to make her meat-and-dairy-free food delicious. Instead, Isa’s “post punk kitchen” — which is also what she dubbed her popular website — focused on using fresh ingredients, simple yet effective techniques and explosive flavors, and the world of vegan cuisine took a great leap forward. Isa has now authored seven cookbooks that have sold a combined million copies, and her extremely comprehensive Isa Does It — Amazingly Easy, Wildly Delicious Recipes for Every Day of the Week may be her masterpiece. AVAILABLE ON 2 HOLD THE VEGAN PUNS, 86 THE FAKE MEAT Isa Chandra Moskowitz makes vegan cooking safe for food lovers By Richard Martin “I mean, I’m just the chef,” Isa Chandra Moskowitz says with a shrug, having lost another small battle with the director on the set of her first series of cooking videos for Breville. Turns out what she needs to do to make her pumpkin ice cream differs from the artistic vision of the director, but in this kitchen at least, in a Brooklyn loft, she’s not the boss. cookbook author, and a woman who has clandestinely mastered the art of cooking without ingredients that 99% of Americans use in their food. That is to say, no cow’s udders have been touched in the making of her pumpkin ice cream. Yet when I put a spoonful of that pumpkin ice cream to my lips, it’s as creamy and sweetly delicious as anything you could find in a carton or even at that new artisanal ice cream shop down the street. How does she do it? How does this Brooklyn-bred gal, who now lives amongst Omaha, Nebraska’s hip creative class, turn typical new American dishes into restaurant-worthy bites with no sign of bacon or cheese in sight? Nor any meat or cheese substitutes of dubious scientific origin? The answers speak in large part to why we’re here in a sparse Williamsburg loft, watching Moskowitz spar with an experienced cooking show director for a series that will be called Make It Vegan. After the shooting for the 10th and final video wraps, and everyone on set embraces as if they haven’t been bickering for the past few days, I press Moskowitz for clarification on how she’s been able to attract a growing audience of believers. Photograph by Zero Point Zero, from Make It Vegan It’s a tough pill to swallow for Moskowitz, a chef whose popular website is called Post Punk Kitchen, and who still exudes punk-rock attitude as she cooks her way through a universe of meat-and-dairy-free recipes. Oh, did I neglect to mention that she’s a vegan? Yes, Isa Chandra Moskowitz is a chef, a post-punk maker of delicious things to eat, a top-selling “I hate saying things like, ‘You won’t believe it’s vegan!’ Because it’s good and you don’t need to say that,” she says matter-of-factly, sitting on a wellworn sofa as the camera crew packs its bags. “Things have changed so much and so fast for vegans and vegan cooking that I can’t imagine that in a decade I’d have to explain, ‘I promise it’s good!’” These changes are due in no small part to Moskowitz herself, who wrote 3 her first vegan cookbook in 2005 and whose subsequent efforts, a total of seven cookbooks including the hit Veganomicon: The Ultimate Vegan Cookbook, have combined to sell roughly a million copies. Her biggest and boldest book yet, the brand-new Isa Does It should mark a turning point in vegan cooking — and vegan philosophy. Gone are the days when vegans had to exist like some sort of cult of non-meat eaters. In Isa Does It (note the curious lack of vegan puns in the title, in favor of wordplay based on her name), there’s an early section on “vegan butchery” — how to slice tofu, for example. There are recipes for butternut bisque and shiitake banh mi sandwiches and pesto. There’s a chapter on mouth-watering desserts, not what you’d expect to find in a vegan cookbook. In short, the distinctions between vegan and non-vegan cooking reduce like a sauce on high heat. While ingredients like nutritional yeast and tempeh do pop up, and the “milk” or “cream” derives from nuts rather than dairy, much of what you’ll find in Isa Does It is merely combinations of vegetables and grains that happen to taste delicious together. Seated across from her, I ask Moskowitz to discuss some of the differences between meat eaters and vegans, leading to this exchange: What do you think is the obstacle for people who don’t like to cook vegetarian and feel that meat has to be at the center of every dish? I think that that’s their obstacle — their thinking! I think they need to change their thinking and stop seeing things as proteins and sides, and look at it as more of an integrated and veggie-filled or grain-filled plate and adding the protein from there. You can add it in lots of different ways, obviously. Also, you have to take into consideration that all food has protein. Zucchini has a great deal of protein for what it is. Kale, brown rice, and quinoa all have protein. You don’t have to get the protein from one source, because you are getting it from multiple sources. All of the essential amino acids are represented in what we’re eating if we’re eating a lot of whole foods. Meat doesn’t have to be the center — we should think more about the flavors and textures of a varied plate. Vegans are often perceived as either being on the defensive about their diet or going on the offensive to prove that they’re right in their choice. But your writing doesn’t usually go in for that kind of rhetoric, right? I find that meat eaters go on the defensive and offensive more! For me, this is just how I eat and what I do and I’m not preaching it to you. I’m never going up to a meat eater and questioning him. I just do what I do and those are my ethics. Sometimes people rush to judgment, like, “Oh, you’re a vegan, so you think I’m a bad person.” But that’s on them. I just cook and try to be a chef and I happen to be a vegan — we’ll leave it at that and see how other people react. If someone asks me why I don’t eat meat and I tell them, then I’m not judging them, but they asked. And to be clear, while Moskowitz doesn’t typically bang the (synthetically made) drum for veganism, she’s no less dedicated than more outspoken advocates. You have to think it has to do with her upbringing. Raised in a decidedly 4 less hipster section of Brooklyn than the one we’re speaking in, Moskowitz found her calling as a chef and a vegan as a teenager, in an era and a neighborhood where the very word vegan was foreign. Her family quickly accepted her decisions (one of her sisters and her mother have become vegans as well), but the vegan lifestyle has certainly been challenging in a country known for its fixation on the hamburger and its love of the outdoor (meat-based) barbecue. Rather than testing her resolve, this proximity to cowboy culture seems to have inspired her. With Isa Does It, the growing following on the Post Punk Kitchen site and now the Make It Vegan cooking videos, Moskowitz is poised to break out as a star chef, one who happens to favor veggies and grains over meat and dairy. “There’s not a lot of vegan chefs,” she notes. “I think when the established food culture lets there be a vegan chef, there will be. There’s a lot of incentive not to have a celebrity vegan chef. A lot of people have an investment in meat and that’s a big deal right now. I think it’s challenging to the establishment and that has to be fought for. I think that more vegans have to fight for it and more vegans have to cook better food. Let’s stop putting soy cheese with a ‘z’ on everything and chicken with quote marks on everything. Let’s start cooking real food and start being chefs. Let’s be food-focused, and changes will happen.” It’s a formidable mantra, and one that Moskowitz puts into practice. Anyone who cooks from Isa Does It will instantly see what she’s getting at — this is food that’s so richly satisfying, the focus won’t be on what’s not in there but on what is. As the last equipment gets wheeled out of the loft, and Moskowitz’s first serious cooking shoot comes to a close, she looks to be in need of a change of scenery, maybe a hearty meal. I let her wind down with a couple of rapid-fire food questions, and her answers make me want to head back to her book to cook more vegan dishes. You wake up and you’re hungry for a big brunch on a Sunday. What are you making? 5 Photograph by Zero Point Zero, from Make It Vegan A stint living in Portland, Oregon, a city that even has vegan bars (some beer, wine and spirits are made with trace animal parts), offered a reprieve for Moskowitz, but she now resides in Omaha, with her Nebraska native boyfriend; and, as she points out, it’s a place that’s very “meat-centric,” seeing as how it is “in the shadow of Omaha Steak.” What about a late-night craving? If I’m going out, I’ll have falafel as a late-night snack. I have a recipe for falafel burgers in the book. Is it hard to do falafel from scratch? No, it’s super easy. I do Israeli-style falafel. Basically, it’s soaking the chickpeas until they’re tender and then chopping everything up in a food processor and forming it into a burger and pan-frying. There you have it: what sounds intimidating on paper is actually attainable. As more and more people go vegan for environmental or political or personal reasons, Isa Chandra Moskowitz is looking like the face of sensible veganism. Early in our conversation, I’d brought up a speech she’d given at a vegan conference, in which she discussed her philosophies and how she evolved from more of an activist to an advocate. We started talking about cows, and I suggested that for her, being a vegan is more personal than political. “Yeah,” she replied. “I mean, I don’t want anyone else to eat [cows] either, but I’m not going out of my way to preach against it. Instead, I’m making vegan food and hopefully making it accessible.” 6 Photograph by Zero Point Zero, from Make It Vegan Scrambled tofu for sure. Avocado and roasted potatoes. Toss in some guacamole, some cilantro, some salsa. Recipe Index 8 11 13 15 17 20 22 27 30 32 QUINOA CAESAR SALAD WITH TOFU DRAGON NOODLE SALAD NEW ENGLAND GLAM CHOWDER BISTRO BEET BURGERS MEATY BEANY CHILI & CORNBREAD MUFFINS ROASTED RED PEPPER MAC & CHEESE NIRVANA ENCHILADA CASSEROLE PUFFY PILLOW PANCAKES PUMPKIN ICE CREAM ROSEMARY CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES Photograph by Zero Point Zero, from Make It Vegan Serves 8 · Total time: 45 minutes (not including quinoa cooking time) · Active time: 20 minutes “Put some quinoa in it.” It’s almost become my motto. I mean, why not? Everything needs quinoa! Even Caesar Salad. This one really is a meal and it makes a ton because I love it as leftovers. It tastes great the day after and, honestly, still pretty darn good on day 3. But feel free to halve it if need be. I am in love with the dressing; it’s creamy, garlicky, briny and tangy and just the kind of stuff you want to stick your face in. The little bites of salty smokiness from the tempeh croutons bring everything together. I highly recommend using the simple make ahead notes for this one; otherwise, it may be too much to pull together on a weeknight. Recipe notes • Make ahead: Make the quinoa a day in advance. Soak the cashews all day so that you can just come home and whip up the dressing. You can also marinade the tempeh all day, but if you do, reduce the soy sauce by 1 tablespoon. • For the roasted garlic, you can either roast a head of it in advance or buy some. Often big fancy places like Whole Foods will have roasted garlic cloves for sale, or you can even nab some from the salad bar. • Variations: Use chickpeas instead of the tempeh. If you like, and you’re feeling rich and fancy, add some toasted pine nuts as well! 8 Quinoa Caesar Salad (continued) 1/2 cup water 1/4 cup tamari or soy sauce 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme, crushed between your fingers 2 teaspoons liquid smoke For the rest: 6 cups cooked and cooled quinoa 8 ounces chopped romaine 4 ounces baby arugula (or chopped arugula) 1 avocado, diced into 1/2 inch pieces Mix together all marinade ingredients and marinate the tempeh for at least 30 minutes, giving everything a stir at least once. To cook the tempeh, preheat a large heavy-bottomed pan, preferably cast iron, over medium high heat. Sauté the tempeh in 2 teaspoons olive oil for 10 minutes, until well browned. Add splashes of marinade a few times as you cook, so that it soaks up even more flavor. Photograph by Zero Point Zero, from Make It Vegan For the marinade: Assemble the salad in a very large mixing bowl. Toss the greens with the quinoa and then add the dressing. Serve topped with tofu and avocado! Breaded Tofu (recipe follows) Briny Caesar Dressing (recipe follows) 9 Quinoa Caesar Salad (continued) Breaded Tofu Briny Caesar Dressing 3/4 cup fine store-bought breadcrumbs (I use whole wheat) 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme, crushed between your fingers Makes 1 1/2 cups 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crushed between your fingers 1/2 teaspoon dried basil 1 teaspoon garlic powder 14 ounces extra firm tofu, sliced into 8 slabs widthwise 3 tablespoons tamari or soy sauce If you don’t want to put together the entirety of the Quinoa Caesar Salad, you can use this as a base for the Caesar of your dreams. 1/2 cup cashews, soaked for at least 2 hours and drained 1 head roasted garlic (about 10 cloves, see note) 2 cloves fresh garlic 1/4 cup capers, with some brine Preheat a large nonstick pan, preferably cast iron, over mediumhigh heat. On a dinner plate, use your fingertips to mix together the breadcrumbs, dried herbs and garlic. On a separate plate, pour the soy sauce. 3/4 cup water Place a tofu slab in the soy sauce and toss to coat. Then dredge it in the breadcrumbs, tossing to coat. (Use your dry hand to handle the tofu in the breadcrumbs, otherwise you’ll get a crumb mitten on your hand.) Put each coated tofu off to the side of the plate and continue until all tofu is coated. Put a thin layer of olive oil in the pan, and then transfer tofu slabs to the pan. Let cook for a few minutes then flip, using a thin metal spatula so that you don’t scrape off the breading. Cook for about 7 minutes total, adding a little extra oil to the pan as needed, and flipping occasionally until browned on most sides. Simply add all of the ingredients to a small blender or food processor and purée until smooth. Scrape down the sides every now and again to make sure you get everything. Keep tightly sealed and refrigerated until ready to use. Keeps for up to 5 days. Several dashes fresh black pepper 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons nutritional yeast 2 tablespoons grapeseed or olive oil 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice MAKE THIS RECIPE WITH the All In One™ Once browned, remove from pan and slice on a bias into 1/4 thick pieces. Shop Now Shop Now 10 Summer evenings are incomplete without a noodle salad like this to slurp up. Peanutty, sesame-y, spicy and loaded with crisp and cooling radishes and cucumbers. 8 ounces rice pad thai noodles 1 cup thinly sliced cucumbers 1 cup thinly sliced radishes 8 cups crisp salad greens Place a bed of greens on each plate and top with noodles. Sprinkle with sesame seeds, top with a little cilantro, and serve. Peanut Dragon Dressing To garnish: Fresh cilantro 4 teaspoons toasted or black sesame seeds Prepare the noodles according to package directions. It’s very important not to overcook them! Often the package says to boil water, then turn it off and let the noodles steep for about 8 minutes. Set a timer to be safe. Once soft, immediately drain and run cold water over them until cool. Assemble the salad: In a very large mixing bowl, toss noodles, radishes and cucumber with most of the dressing, setting aside a little bit for drizzling. 11 Photograph by Vanessa Rees, from Isa Does It Serves 4 · Total time: 30 minutes · Active time: 20 minutes Go beyond the kitchen. INTRODUCING FOODTHINKERS.COM Essays, articles, recipes, videos, and eBooks from some of the brightest minds in the culinary world. www.FoodThinkers.com Serves 6 to 8 Total time: 35 minutes (not including soaking time for cashews) · Active time: 15 minutes Recipe notes • How fishy do you like it? Nori is pretty mild as far as seaweeds go, but the potency varies depending on the brand and how fresh the nori is. Start with one sheet, then taste after everything is added at the end. If you think it needs more sea, you can still add another chopped up sheet. Just mix it in and let the flavor meld, off the heat, for about 10 minutes. • To efficiently chop nori, it works to chiffonade it. That means roll up and slice! So tightly roll up your nori sheet like a cigar, and thinly slice. Then run your knife over the curled up bunches to get them into even smaller pieces. • If you’d like it even more chewy and you have a million dollars to spend on fungi, then go ahead and replace all of the white mushrooms with shiitake. 13 Photograph by Vanessa Rees, from Isa Does It This is for all you fishheads out there. A mix of mushrooms stand in for the clams to create a super satisfying chewiness, while some chopped up nori gives this chowder a true taste of the sea. It’s thick and creamy and loaded with the finer things, like potatoes and carrots. Crumble some saltines over the top and you’ll be able to hear the Atlantic Ocean lapping at your feet. For authenticity, make sure to serve this while talking like a character from a Stephen King movie. N.E. Glam Chowder (continued) 1 cup cashews, soaked for at least 2 hours 2 cups vegetable broth 4 teaspoons organic cornstarch 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 large yellow onion, diced medium 2 medium carrots, peeled, sliced into 1/4 inch thick half moons 3 stalks celery, sliced 1/4 inch thick 4 ounces shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced 8 ounces white button mushrooms, sliced 1/4 inch thick 2 russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4 inch chunks 3/4 teaspoon salt, more to taste Fresh black pepper 1 to 2 nori sheets, finely chopped (see note) 3 cups vegetable broth 2 tablespoons tomato paste 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Optional toppings: Fresh chopped parsley or chives for garnish Saltines for crushing over the top Preheat a 4-quart pot over medium heat. Sauté onion and carrots in the olive oil with a pinch of salt for about 10 minutes, until carrots are softened. In the meantime, we’ll make the cashew cream. Drain the cashews and add them to the blender along with the vegetable broth and cornstarch. Blend like crazy, until smooth. This can take anywhere from one to five minutes depending on your machine. Scrape down the sides with a rubber spatula every now and again to make sure you get everything. Back to the soup. Add mushrooms and celery. Cook briefly, for about 3 minutes, just until mushrooms are softened. You want them to keep their texture. Add the potatoes, salt, pepper, nori and vegetable broth. Cover and bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce heat to a simmer. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes, or until potatoes are tender. Be careful to keep a close eye so as not to overcook them or they will turn into mush. Stir in the cashew cream mixture and gently heat, uncovered, for about 7 minutes, until nicely thickened. Add the tomato paste and lemon juice and taste for salt and seasoning. Add a little extra water if it seems too thick. Serve garnished with parsley or chives, if you like, and a few saltine crackers. A wedge of lemon looks pretty, too. AVAILABLE ON 14 Makes 6 burgers · Total time: 1 hour, 15 minutes · Active time: 20 minutes Well, everyone loves burgers, and this is a fine, upstanding, burger-citizen made with some of my favorite ingredients. Brown rice, lentils and beets! They all combine to form the perfect storm of vegan burgerness. It’s not that they taste exactly like hamburgers or anything, but they do taste exactly like awesome veggie burgers. Rice provides hearty texture to give you a substantial bite. Lentils are my go-to ground meat, so they were a natural addition. And beets give the burger an intense (vaguely disturbing) meat-like appearance, but they also add a lot of flavor, earthy and slightly sweet. Just something that takes your VB to the next level. Make the mixture the morning of or evening before to have these on the table in no time. Recipe notes • One very important part of this recipe is the cooking method. You want to get the burger charred. Not burnt, but charred, which really just means, uh, burnt only in some places. The best way to achieve this is with a very hot cast iron pan. Other pans may react differently to high heat and may not give you that perfect char. So if you’re not using a cast iron pan, the next best thing would be to transfer them to a baking pan after cooking, brush with oil and stick them under the broiler for a few minutes. • If you’d like to bake these instead, do so at 375°F, 8 to 10 minutes each side, then stick under the broiler to brown them. • I use a food processor to make these happen quickly, so you’ll have to do some finagling if you don’t have one. You can shred the beets with a hand shredder, then use a potato masher to mash everything together. It will come out a bit chunkier, but still yummy! • If you have a tree-nut allergy, then sunbutter or tahini will make an excellent substitution! 15 Bistro Beet Burgers (continued) 1 1/4 cups cooked, cooled brown rice 1 cup cooked brown or green lentils, drained well 1 cup shredded beets 1/2 teaspoon salt Fresh black pepper 1 teaspoon thyme, rubbed between your fingers 1/2 teaspoon ground fennel (or finely crushed fennel seed) 1 teaspoon dry mustard 3 tablespoons very finely chopped onion 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons smooth almond butter 1/2 cup very fine breadcrumbs Olive oil for the pan To serve: 6 burger buns, shredded lettuce, sliced dill pickles, finely diced onion and ketchup. I would add a layer of avocado instead of a vegan cheese, but that’s just me. Peel beets and shred with the shredder attachment of your food processor, then transfer to a mixing bowl and set aside. Back to the food processor, switch out the shredder attachment for a metal blade. Pulse the brown rice, shredded beets and lentils 15 to 20 times, until the mixture comes together but still has texture. It should look a lot like ground meat. Now transfer back to the mixing bowl and add all the remaining ingredients: salt, pepper, thyme, fennel, dry mustard, onion, garlic, almond butter, and breadcrumbs. Use your hands to mix very well. Everything should be well incorporated, so get in there and take your time, it could take a minute or two. Place the mixture in the fridge for 30 minutes to chill. Preheat a cast iron pan over mediumhigh. Now form the patties. Each patty will be about 1/3 cup of mixture and should be formed into 3/4 inch thick discs. Pour a very thin layer of oil into the pan and cook patties for about 12 minutes, flipping occasionally. Drizzle in a little more oil or use a bottle of organic cooking spray as needed. Burgers should be charred at the edges and heated through. Serve warm! They taste pretty great heated up as well, so if you want to, cook them in advance, refrigerate, then gently heat in the pan later on. 16 Photograph by Vanessa Rees, from Isa Does It I’m no Texas chili expert, but I am a culinary reality TV expert, and one thing that’s for sure is that if chefs on a cooking competition talk about Texas, they talk about chili. And if they talk about chili, they have to state no less than 10 times that Texas chili has no beans in it. They’ll say it in slow-mo and with echo and dubbed over techno music. Texas chili has no beans. Did you hear that? NO BEANS! So this is my reverse homage to Texas chili. A mean pot of stew filled with all my favorite beans! It’s thick and stick-to-your ribs, and super duper meaty thanks to the cooked down lentils. Serve with Cornbread Muffins and guacamole. Recipe notes • You can make this on the stovetop instead of in a slow cooker. Just use 2 extra cups of water and let the stew simmer for about 45 minutes. • If you don’t want to futz with two different kinds of whole beans, either kidney or black beans could go solo, too. 17 Photograph by Vanessa Rees, from Isa Does It Serves 8 to 10 · Total time: 1 hour · Active time: 20 minutes Meaty Beany Chili (continued) 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 yellow onion, diced medium 1 green pepper, seeded, diced medium 6 cloves garlic, minced 2 jalapeños, thinly sliced (seeded, if you want it less spicy) 3 to 4 tablespoons mild chili powder 1 tablespoon dried Mexican oregano 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 1/2 teaspoons salt Several dashes fresh black pepper 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves 2 cups water (plus extra as needed) Set your slow cooker to “sear.” Sauté the onion, green pepper and jalapeño in the oil with a big pinch of salt for 5 to 7 minutes, until onion is translucent. Add the garlic, and sauté until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add remaining ingredients, cover and set to slow cook for at least 8 hours. Taste for salt and seasoning, and thin with a little water if necessary. Serve! 1 cup dried brown lentils 1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes 1 1/2 cups cooked kidney beans, rinsed and drained (15-ounce can) 1 1/2 cups cooked black beans, rinsed and drained (15-ounce can) 1 tablespoon pure maple syrup 2 tablespoons lime juice Cornbread Muffins (recipe follows) MAKE THIS RECIPE WITH the Fast Slow Cooker™ Shop Now 18 Meaty Beany Chili (continued) Cornbread Muffins Makes 12 muffins Total time: 40 minutes Active time: 10 minutes These are what I consider the perfect cornbread muffin for breakfast or for chili. Beautifully golden, not too sweet, plenty of corn flavor, and lots of great texture, too, thanks to fresh corn kernels baked right in. As usual, fresh kernels cut right from the cob are best. But frozen is perfectly fine, too! Just make sure they are thawed first. If you’d like to turn this into a berry muffin, feel free to add 1 teaspoon of vanilla with the wet ingredients along with 1 teaspoon fresh lemon zest, then fold in 1 cup of berries. 1 cup almond milk (or your favorite non-dairy milk) 2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar 1 cup all-purpose flour or whole wheat pastry flour 1 cup cornmeal, medium ground 1/3 cup sugar Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly spray a muffin tin with cooking spray. Measure out the milk and add the apple cider vinegar to it, then set aside to curdle. In a medium mixing bowl, mix together the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Make a well in the center and add in the milk, oil and applesauce. Stir together the wet ingredients in the well. Then mix the wet and dry together just until the dry ingredients are moistened, being careful not to overmix. Fold in the corn kernels. Fill each muffin tin most of the way with batter. Bake for 18 to 22 minutes. Tops should feel firm to the touch and a knife inserted through the center should come out clean. Remove from oven and when cool enough to handle (usually 10 minutes or so), transfer muffins to a cooling rack to cool the rest of the way. 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons refined coconut oil, melted 2 tablespoons unsweetened applesauce 1 cup corn kernels (thawed if using frozen) AVAILABLE ON 19 This is a beautiful bright orange mac, flavored with pepperoni-pizza-type seasonings: fennel, thyme and oregano. Recipe notes • If you don’t have any pizza seasoning lying around, simply use these spices: 1/4 teaspoon fennel seed or ground fennel, 1/4 teaspoon oregano, 1/2 teaspoon thyme, 1/2 teaspoon granulated garlic • You can make this a baked mac, if you prefer! Transfer the whole shebang to an 8 × 8 casserole and bake at 350°F for 20 minutes. 20 Photograph by Vanessa Rees, from Isa Does It Serves 4 · Total time: 30 minutes · Active time: 20 minutes Roasted Red Pepper Mac & Cheese (continued) 1/2 pound macaroni or other small pasta 3/4 cups cashews, soaked in water for 2 hours 2 teaspoons olive oil 1 small yellow onion, diced medium 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 cups vegetable broth 1 1/2 tablespoons organic cornstarch 1 tablespoon nutritional yeast (optional) 1 roasted red pepper (jarred or homemade) 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 1/2 teaspoons pizza seasoning (see note) 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ground mustard 1/2 teaspoon turmeric MAKE THIS RECIPE WITH the Hemisphere™ Control Preheat a 2-quart sauce pot over medium heat. Sauté onions in oil with a pinch of salt for 5 to 7 minutes, until onions are translucent. Add garlic and sauté for 30 seconds or so, then transfer to a blender or food processor. Boil a large pot of salted water for cooking the pasta. Once boiling, cook pasta according to package directions. Drain the cashews and add them to the blender along with the vegetable broth, corn starch, nutritional yeast, red peppers, tomato paste, pizza seasoning, salt, mustard and turmeric. Blend until very smooth. Scrape down the sides every 30 seconds or so and test for smoothness. Transfer the sauce in the blender back to the sauce pot where you cooked the onions. Turn the heat up to medium and let cook, stirring very often, until thickened. This should take between 10 and 15 minutes. Taste for salt. It should taste slightly salty because you’re going to be pouring it on the pasta. The pasta should be done while the sauce is thickening, so drain and place pasta back in the pot you cooked it in. Set aside. When sauce is thickened, add it to the pasta in the pot, and use a large slotted spoon to mix well, taking care not to break the pasta. Serve! Shop Now 21 Serves 8 · Total time: 1 hour 10 minutes · Active time: 30 minutes The thing is: enchiladas are a pain in the butt. A worth-it pain in the butt, but a pain in the butt, nonetheless. This version, in casserole form, is a little less so. Don’t get me wrong, it still makes more dishes than you want to do, but it’s a lot easier than stuffing each tortilla. Now that I’ve scared all of you posers away with that foreboding introduction, I’ll let you in on a little secret: this is ridiculously amazing. Shh! Layers of corn tortilla sopping up spicy, fragrant, red sauce then overstuffed with mushrooms, pinto beans and roasted potatoes. On top is a voluptuous cashew cream that will have you rolling your eyes to the back of your head like a zombie. An enchilada zombie. This is definitely more of a Sunday night supper, but if you want to enjoy it on a weeknight, it can happen. Make the enchilada sauce the night before and be sure to soak your cashews. Everything will come together in a snap! Although there are four components, I tried to keep them all simple enough so that they work together well and don’t cause too much grief. Recipe notes • If you’re not feeding an army, you can halve this recipe in an 8 × 8 casserole. Just make sure it’s a deep one or you’ll have an overflowing enchilada monster on your hands. • If you want to add extra heat, there are a few ways I can recommend doing it. Sauté a sliced, seeded jalapeño with the onion for the filling, or try an extra jalapeño in the sauce. • The white sauce is not entirely necessary, but it’s easy enough to do and it looks (and tastes) great. If, however, it’s too much to finagle at the moment or you forgot to soak cashews, then you can just serve topped with some guac. If you wanted to serve with your favorite meltable vegan cheese instead, then I can try to look the other way. • I love the tenderness of pintos here, but feel free to use black beans! I bet lentils would be yummy, too. But that’s no surprise because I always think lentils would be yummy. 22 Nirvana Enchilada Casserole (continued) For the potatoes: Make the potatoes: 1 1/2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, cut into 1/2 inch pieces Preheat oven to 425°F. 1 tablespoon olive oil Fresh black pepper 1/2 teaspoon salt For the Enchilada sauce: 4 teaspoons cumin seeds 1 tablespoon coriander seeds 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 yellow onion, diced medium 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and chopped (use 2 if you like more heat) 6 cloves garlic, chopped 2 teaspoons dried oregano (Mexican, preferably) 2 28-ounce cans whole tomatoes 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon agave nectar Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Toss the potatoes with the oil right on the baking sheet. Sprinkle with fresh black pepper and salt, and toss to coat. Bake for 15 minutes, reduce the heat to 350°F, flip potatoes and bake for 10 more minutes. Leave oven at 350°F, because that is the temp that the enchiladas need to bake at. Preheat a 4-quart pot over medium heat. Dry toast the cumin and coriander seeds in the pan for about 2 minutes, stirring frequently, until they’re fragrant and a few shades darker, just be careful not to burn. Add the oil and sauté the onion, jalapeño and garlic with oregano and a pinch of salt for about 5 minutes, until onions are translucent. Add the tomatoes, salt and agave, cover pot, turn the heat up to bring to a slow boil. Let cook for about 20 minutes. Once cooked, purée until smooth with either an immersion blender or by transferring to a blender or food processor. If using a blender, intermittently lift the lid to let steam escape so that it doesn’t build up and explode and kill you. Also, note that if you use an immersion blender you really have to blend a lot to get the seeds to smooth out. Taste for salt and set aside to cool. 23 Photograph by Zero Point Zero, from Make It Vegan For the filling: Make the filling: 1 tablespoon olive oil Preheat a large pan over medium heat. Sauté the onion in oil with a pinch of salt for about 5 minutes, until translucent. Add the garlic and sauté just until fragrant, 15 seconds or so. Add the mushrooms and salt, and cook until they’ve released a lot of their moisture, about 5 minutes. Add the pinto beans and lime juice and cook just until heated through, 2 minutes or so. 1 onion, quartered and thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, minced 8 ounces cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced 1/2 teaspoon salt 3 cups cooked pinto beans (2 15-ounce cans, rinsed and drained) 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice When the roasted potatoes are ready, toss them into the filling mix. Taste for salt and set aside. White sauce: Make the white sauce: 1 cup cashews, soaked for at least 2 hours Drain the cashews. Add everything to the blender and purée until completely smooth. It’s rather thick, so definitely scrape down the sides with a rubber spatula often to make sure you get everything. Refrigerate until ready to use. 3/4 cups water 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons cornstarch 24 Photograph by Vanessa Rees, from Isa Does It Nirvana Enchilada Casserole (continued) Nirvana Enchilada Casserole (continued) For assembly: Assemble this bad boy: 18 8-inch corn tortillas So we’re just going to be adding layers of sauce, tortillas and filling, then topping it all off. Let’s begin. Optional toppings: Pepitas Fresh chopped cilantro Recipe notes Here’s the order to do everything in to get this done in just over an hour: 1. Preheat oven, prep potatoes, and begin your mise en place. 2. Roast the potatoes. 3. Start the enchilada sauce. 4. Start the filling. 5. While all that is cooking, blend the cashew sauce. 6. Assemble, bake and go relax! MAKE THIS RECIPE WITH the Smart Oven® Lightly grease a 9 × 13 casserole pan. Ladle in a thin layer of enchilada sauce, then layer 6 tortillas into the pan. Now things are going to get a bit messy! Ladle in another layer of enchilada sauce (about a cup’s worth), and flip each tortilla to smother in the sauce. Each one should be coated, but you should still be able to see the tortilla, that is to say, it shouldn’t be drowning in the sauce. Next, layer the tortillas so that they’re slightly overlapping and covering the bottom of the pan. Now add half of the filling, and pour on 1/2 cup or so of sauce. Layer in 6 more tortillas and repeat the process of smothering each of them in a cup of sauce. Cover with the remaining filling. Once again pour 1/2 cup of sauce over the filling and add the final layer of tortillas. Smother those in a cup of sauce. Reserve the rest of the sauce (if any) for serving. Finally, top with the cashew sauce. I pour it directly out of the blender and try to ribbon it in thick globs over the top. It doesn’t have to be neat; it will look cute pretty much no matter what. Place in the 350° oven and bake uncovered for about 30 minutes. The topping should be lightly golden. Shop Now Remove from oven and sprinkle with a handful of pepitas and chopped fresh cilantro if you like. Now it’s ready to serve! 25 With the Fast Slow Cooker™ the Hemisphere™ Control Shop Now the Control Grip™ the Breville Sous Chef ® BrevilleUSA.com These pancakes were inspired by the movie Dan in Real Life. Honestly, I don’t remember much about that movie except for one thing: the pivotal pancake scene. Juliette Binoche was flipping these magnificent golden brown creatures on a griddle. I think she was pissed off about something in the scene, but all I could concentrate on were those puffy pillows of pancakes, perfectly golden brown, lined up like jewel cushions on display. I fussed and fussed with my pancake batter until I achieved these perfect results! 27 Photograph by Vanessa Rees, from Isa Does It Makes 6 pancakes · Total time: 30 minutes · Active time: 20 minutes Puffy Pillow Pancakes (continued) Recipe notes • Don’t use an electric mixer for the batter. Overmixed pancakes tend to result in a dense pancake. I simply use a dinner fork to get everything mixed. • You have to let the batter rest for 10 minutes or so. The vinegar and the baking powder need time to react with each other, and the gluten needs to settle in and rest. • Don’t crowd the pan. Even in my big cast iron, I don’t make more than two pancakes at once. If you have a large pancake griddle, then use it! (PS: Just for the record, I don’t have one.) • Don’t use too much oil in the pan. It will result in a tough exterior. A very thin layer of oil is what you want, and a spray can of organic canola oil works perfectly for this. • Preheat the pan for a good 10 minutes. I use cast iron and put it on moderate low heat (right around 3 on my stovetop), but you will probably need to adjust a little to get the temp just right. Remember, the temp is not set in stone. Lower and raise in tiny increments as needed. Even turning the dial 1/4 inch can result in big changes. • Use a measuring cup (with a rounded bottom if possible) to scoop out the batter for uniformly sized pancakes. And remember to always spray the cup between scoops, to prevent sticking. • Once you drop the pancake in, refrain from futzing with the uncooked pancake too much. However, don’t be afraid to delicately nudge the batter a tiny bit with your fingers to get a more circular shape and even cooking. But the batter should spread a tiny bit and puff up all on its own. MAKE THIS RECIPE WITH the Smart Grill™ Shop Now 28 Puffy Pillow Pancakes (continued) 3 1/2 teaspoons baking powder 2 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup almond milk (or your favorite non-dairy milk) 2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar 1 tablespoon ground flax seeds 1/2 cup water 3 tablespoons canola oil 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract In a large mixing bowl, sift together flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. Make a well in the center. Measure the milk into a measuring cup. Add vinegar and ground flax seeds, and use a fork to vigorously mix the ingredients until foamy. This will take a minute or so. Pour the milk mixture into the center of the dry ingredients. Add the water, canola oil and vanilla, and use a fork to mix until a thick, lumpy batter forms. That should take about a minute. It doesn’t need to be smooth, just make sure you get all the ingredients incorporated. Preheat the pan over medium-low heat and let the batter rest for 10 minutes. Lightly coat the pan in oil. Add 1/3 cup of batter for each pancake, and cook for about 4 minutes, until puffy. Flip the pancakes, adding a new coat of oil to the pan, and cook for another 3 minutes or so. Pancake should be about an inch thick and golden brown. Rest pancakes on a cooling rack covered with tin foil until ready to serve. To reheat, place pancakes on a baking sheet covered with tin foil in a 300°F degree oven for 5 minutes or so. Blueberry Ginger Sauce 16 ounces blueberries, fresh or frozen 2 tablespoons water 1/3 cup sugar (more to taste) 1 tablespoon organic cornstarch 2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger Place blueberries, water and sugar in a 4-quart pot and mix. Add the conrnstarch and mix until it is dissolved. Bring to a slow boil. Add ginger and let simmer until thickened, about 7 minutes. 29 Photograph by Zero Point Zero, from Make It Vegan 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour Makes 1 quart Everything you want in an ice cream. Smooth, rich, creamy and frosty! Lots of pumpkin purée, a hint of molasses and warm spices like ginger and cinnamon make this amazing ice cream taste like pumpkin pie. We boil the cashews to make them very soft, as well as temper their flavor. This way, when you take your first licks, all you taste is pure pumpkin and cream and an autumny heaven. I doubt anyone will detect cashew. And if they do, so what? Cashews are delicious. To make your own pumpkin pie spice, it’s just 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon ginger, 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg and 1/4 teaspoon allspice. MAKE THIS RECIPE WITH the Smart Scoop™ Shop Now 30 Pumpkin Ice Cream (continued) 1 cup rice milk 3/4 cup pumpkin purée 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon organic corn syrup 1 tablespoon light molasses 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract 1/2 cup sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice First, boil the cashews in water for about 30 minutes. Drain them and add to the blender. Add all remaining ingredients and blend until completely smooth. Blend for about a minute, then test for creaminess. It should take about 3 minutes total to get everything as smooth as possible. Preset your ice cream maker to a hard gelato setting and pour in ice cream mixture. Once it’s churned, you can eat immediately as a soft serve, but for scoopable results, seal tightly and freeze for about 24 hours. 31 Photograph by Zero Point Zero, from Make It Vegan 1 cup unroasted cashews Makes 2 dozen cookies · Total time: 30 minutes · Active time: 15 minutes There is something otherwordly about the rosemary chocolate combination, and it makes these my favorite cookies in the world. Did I already say that about another cookie? It was a lie. These are buttery, golden, sublime and just slightly exotic. If you haven’t tried the rosemary chocolate combo, be prepared to fall in love. Recipe notes • I simply use a fork to mix most cookie recipes. True, it takes a little more elbow grease and time to beat the oils and sugars adequately, but for me it’s somehow worth it not to have to break out the hand mixer. If you don’t see the logic in this (because there really isn’t any) then feel free to use your hand mixer! • I also use a cookie disher, which is a small ice cream scooper. For years I relied on nothing but a tablespoon and my eyeballs to make sure my cookies were the same size, so you can do that, too. • Make sure that your coconut oil is at room temperature. It shouldn’t be clear and melted, just somewhat creamy without any large lumps. AVAILABLE ON 32 Rosemary Chocolate Chip Cookies (continued) 2 tablespoons lightly packed, fresh rosemary, chopped 1/4 cup granulated sugar 1/3 cup light brown sugar 1/4 cup almond milk (or your favorite non-dairy milk) 1 tablespoon ground flax seeds (golden preferred) 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 cup chocolate semisweet chips Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly grease two large baking sheets. In a large mixing bowl, use a fork to beat together the coconut oil and rosemary, until relatively smooth. Add the sugar and beat for about a minute. Add the non-dairy milk and flax seeds and beat once again, for 30 seconds or so. Mix in the vanilla. Add about half the flour, as well as the salt and baking soda, and mix well. Add the remainder of the flour, along with the chocolate chips, and mix well until it looks like, well, cookie dough. Scoop about 2 tablespoons of dough onto cookie sheets in rounded spoonfuls. Flatten gently with your hands. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until bottoms are golden brown. Let cool on sheets for 3 minutes or so, then transfer to cooling racks to cool the rest of the way. 33 Photograph by Zero Point Zero, from Make It Vegan 1/2 cup refined coconut oil, softened Connect with Subscribe to Breville @BrevilleUSA /BrevilleUSA FoodThinkers.com
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