The BEGi Miata Oil Drain Upgrade System

The BEGi Miata
Oil Drain Upgrade System
Installation and Operations Manual
Applicable to all Mazda Miatas
Revised 5-13-08
Version 1.1
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Thank you for purchasing this system. We regard your installation as a mutual project and will be pleased to
offer help at any time. We remain committed to make this a successful and enjoyable experience for all
concerned. If any questions arise in the process of installation, please feel free to call BEGi for assistance.
The success of this installation will be determined by a variety of factors. These instructions should be adhered
to unless reasonable cause for deviation exists. The vehicle must be in excellent condition and proper tune
prior to starting the installation. Care and attention to detail by the installer are of extreme importance. The
daily operator of the vehicle must become familiar with, and observe all operational guidelines.
Clean and inspect all components of this assembly, as BEGi accepts no responsibility for cleanliness. All
components will be cleaned prior to shipment, however, the cleanliness standards of the installer override all
others. BEGi also does not guarantee the fit of any other manufacturers parts when used in conjunction with
our systems. All components should be inventoried with respect to the packing lists. Shortages will not be
honored in excess of twenty days after the shipping date.
Prior to starting the installation, fill the fuel tank with gasoline of 93 octane. Do not dilute with lesser octane
fuel already in the tank. it is critical to have the correct octane fuel when testing the finished installation for
the absence of knock.
All left or right directional references will be from the driver viewpoint. For example, the turbo mounts on
the left side. If clarification of these instructions is required, please call BEGi at 830-438-2890. Suggestions
for improvements of these instructions are welcome. Send an e-mail to [email protected]. Or, write
notes on the instruction set and mail / fax to: BEGi, 203 Kestrel Dr., Spring Branch, Texas. 78070. Fax: 530438-8361
These instructions and the operational requirements for this system must be reviewed with the owner-driver
prior to delivery of the vehicle to the end user. Please read the statement of warranty at the end of these
instructions prior to starting the installation.
Tool and Equipment Requirements
The following tools and equipment will be required to conveniently accomplish this install:
General SAE open/box wrenches
Floor jack
Allen wrench set
Jack stands x 4
Hand drill and assorted bits
Oil change & Oil Filter
Wire brush
Oil drain pan
Permatex Thread Sealer
Clean rags
Small funnel
Mineral Spirits - 1 pint
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Preliminary
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A clean engine is pleasant to work on. If needed, wash both top side and bottom very thoroughly. The
high pressure car wash does a good job. Wearing latex gloves can help keep the installer as clean as
a nice engine.
Position the car on jack stands, high enough to work conveniently beneath the car.
DO NOT DRAIN THE OIL.
Remove the two front wheels.
Oil Drain Line:
There are many easier oil drain lines to install than the fixed length metal braid hose. We’ve used them all
with varying degrees of success. The only 100% correct drain line is exactly what we’ve chosen here. It will
require another 15 minutes to install, but regardless of whether you stop to think about it in two or three years,
it will prove time well spent. The braided line also requires more care regarding placement of the hole in the
oil sump or else the line will not fit, or remain in a severe bind. While mildly scary, drilling and threading a
hole in the oil sump is, nevertheless, a perfectly safe process. The procedure outlined here will preclude any
shavings from remaining in the sump. Should any shavings slip through and not come out when draining the
oil and purging with solvent, they will find it very difficult to get off the bottom of the sump and into the oil
pick-up. If any shavings still survive to enter the pick-up, they will stop in the oil filter. The turbo drain hole
will lie slightly below the oil level, thus oil will run out as the drill penetrates the sump wall. The oil flow
will further purge the shavings. You will actually see them flowing out in the oil.
Locate the position of the drain hole. Mark a point 2.3" below the lower lip of the oil pan flange that bolts
up to the engine block. With a straight edge across the front of the oil pan, approximately two inches below
the pan flange, measure aft 1.5" and mark the spot. So, 2.3" down and 1.5" aft, on the flattest spot available,
is the place to drill. Place an oil drain pan below the sump. Refer to figure # 1.
The drain hole location is on the left (driver) side of the oil
sump, just below the A/C compressor. If your Miata does not
have an A/C compressor present, move the drill location up
about one inch and forward 1/4".
With A/C lines and other paraphernalia in the way of where
the hand drill needs to be, it is almost impossible to drill the
hole perpendicular to the sump wall. This does not matter, as
long as the tap is held straight when cutting the threads. Just
hold the drill as straight as possible and the tap can fix the real
thread direction.
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Figure # 1
Drill the hole with the 0.312" diameter drill bit.
Grease the end of the bit to collect the shavings as the
bit is about to penetrate the wall. With this as a pilot hole now drill with the .578" bit. Use the same
greasing procedure as above. Try not to let the drill bit “suck” itself into the sum when the wall is
pierced.
Tap the threads with the 3/8 NPT tap. The tap can best be driven with a ratchet wrench. Use an 8" to
10" extension and a 16mm or 5/8 twelve point socket. Grease the tap to collect the shavings. Again,
you will see the shavings coming out with the dripping oil. Make every effort to hold the tap
horizontal. The oil drain function will not be compromised if it is at a slight angle, but it sure will look
sloppy. Stop every two threads, remove, clean and re-grease the tap. Sink the tap until two or three
threads on the tap remain outside the wall of the sump.
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Figure # 8
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Let the oil drip for a while, then clean the surfaces as
thoroughly as possible. Spray some solvent on the
threads.
Install the AN816-10-06 fitting into the sump. Use a
smudge of Permatex to seal. Refer to figure # 2.
Add the drain line (61029) onto the fitting and route
the hose upward. Finger tighten only. Refer to figure
# 3.
Drain the engine oil.
With the aid of a funnel, pour one quart of mineral
spirits through the hose to purge any shavings that fell
into the sump.
Allow the solvent to drain for approximately 30
minutes before replacing the sump plug. Tighten the
Figure # 2
sump plug right now.
Check the sump plug for security. Losing a sump plug
would be memorable. (
Remove the oil drain line from the fitting at the sump.
Preparing the Turbo:
Several assembly steps can be more easily done with the turbo
prior to installation. In handling the turbo, please exercise care
as they are fragile to dropping and foreign particle damage.
Check the turbo for any foreign particles inside. Clean the
gasket surfaces. Cover the compressor inlet and outlet with
sandwich bags and a rubber band to avoid junk getting into
the turbo.
Figure # 3
Note: Some debris is damaging, some is harmless. Oily smudges mean nothing. Aluminum shavings
burn up in the combustion and are harmless. Anything reeking of iron or silicon (glass beads) is a
killer and can ruin a cylinder in a heartbeat. ANYTHING hanging around the turbo oil inlet can prove
harmful. Rather than trying to decide what’s what................
The Oil Drain Plate and Oil Drain gasket will
line up with the hole on the flange. Screw the
oil drain fitting into the flange first. Then, use
the 8 mm socket head cap screws to secure it in
place. You can use permatex to seal the fitting.
Refer to figure # 4.
Attach the oil drain hose (p/n 61029) to the
drain fitting on the turbo. Tighten the hose
assemblies now, as it is very difficult to reach
them once they are installed on the car. Refer
to figure # 5.
Figure # 4
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Note: Often the braid doesn’t want to remain where positioned
prior to tightening the couplers. This can be countered by simply
holding the line where you want it, with an additional wrench.
Route the oil drain hose (previously installed on turbo) to the fitting at the
sump. Insure that the drain hose always travels downhill. Bends must be
smooth arcs with no crimping, or else the oil will not return to the sump
properly and can cause severe smoking from the tailpipe. Refer to figure
# 6 & 7.
Caution: these stainless steel braid lines will chaff completely
through brake lines, hoses, and body metal. Insure that the steel
braided lines are not allowed to rub on anything that would not be Figure # 5
damage tolerant. It is best that they do not rub on anything.
Figure # 6
Figure # 7
Testing Procedures
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Start the engine and check for oil leaks. Correct as required.
Drive the car a few miles prior to applying boost. If all systems are operating normally, proceed with
the testing. Generally use 3rd or 4th gears to keep events at a slower pace. Apply boost in small
increments at a time such that no sudden changes occur.
Do not be alarmed by acrid fumes coming from the turbo and manifold area. This is the heat burning
oily hand prints off the hot surfaces. Drive about twenty miles and the fumes should be gone.
General Rules of Operation
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Engine oil change interval for mineral base oils is 2500 miles. Synthetic base oils may extend the
interval to 5000 miles. The use of synthetic oils, like Amsoil, are strongly recommended.
Do not run the car under boost until it has reached normal operating temperature.
It is the responsibility of the installer to review these general rules of operation with the owner/driver.
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Warranty Information
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All items made by BEGi are warranted for workmanship and function for one year from the date of
receipt. All other items are subject to manufacturer’s warranty.
If problems arise from using a BEGi part in a manner other than intended, or a part is installed
incorrectly, BEGi reserves the right to refuse warranty coverage for damages.
BEGi will not warranty any kits, parts or items purchased thru an online auction that is not purchased
from an authorized dealer. The customer must be able to provide proof of purchase for any warranty
repairs.
BEGi reserves the right to inspect any item before any warranty will be granted. BEGi will not
reimburse for any labor charges on warranty items that occur without prior, written consent.
BEGi extends no warranty nor accepts liability to any original, stock, or replacement components on
the vehicle.
BEGi does not pay any towing expenses.
Warranty may transfer. BEGi must be notified within twenty days of sale to continue warranty
coverage.
Shipping / freight charges are the responsibility of the end user for all warranty consideration.
Terms of Sale
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All shortages from the parts list must be reported to BEGi within 20 days of receipt.
BEGi does not pay any towing expenses.
All returned items are subject to a 25% re-stocking fee.
BEGi accepts no liability for death or injury to any person or persons under any circumstance.
The re-seller assumes all responsibility for the end user’s knowledge of this warranty.
Turbo Kits sold by BEGi or by a BEGi authorized distributor must be registered with BEGi within
twenty days of receipt by the end user.
BEGi does not guarantee that turbo kits will pass smog tests. For California residents, some BEGI kits
have been provided a C.A.R.B. Executive Order Number. However, BEGi does not guarantee that the
end user’s car will pass.
Acceptance, re-sell, or use of any BEGi part constitutes full agreement by the re-seller/end user, that
the terms of sale and warranty are fully understood and accepted in full.
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