What is Doll Hair made of?

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Doll Wigging & Hair Part 1: A Doll Project Tutorial
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What is Doll Hair
made of?
Have you ever looked at a doll and wondered
what its hair was made out of? Or wondered
how your doll could have hair that is shinier,
longer, softer, or even more earth friendly?
We’ll discuss all this and more here.
Welcome to your first lesson in the complete
guide to “Doll Wigging & Hair.” This is the
first of eleven lessons on how to wig dolls of
all types including restoration and doll
alteration projects. Before you can wig a doll, you must know what kind of
fiber you’d like to use, so this lesson is where we will build up your base of
fiber knowledge. Whether you make art dolls, restore, alter or collect dolls,
this lesson will teach you everything you need to know about doll hair for any
doll in any scale.
Throughout this lesson, we will talk about the different fibers that make up
doll hair of all kinds. Knowing about each fiber will help you make purchasing
and project decisions for your doll based on the individual properties of the
fibers as well as any ethical implications usage of the fibers may have. I will
share with you fiber industry terms such as ‘staple length’ and ‘micron’ as well
as why it is important to know these.
I have scoured through vast resources to bring you the best information for
your doll projects :]. See the end of this lesson for a complete guide to
resources including recommended books as well as companies who sell the
fibers discussed here.
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Let’s get started with some basic vocabulary.
Note: I am going to be honest. I hated vocabulary in school. Hate is a strong
word, but there it is. For this reason, I appreciate vocabulary lists that are
short and useful. So for you, I have only defined terms that are necessary for
you to make an educated decision when selecting fibers for your doll project.
If you would like to read more about some of the fibers (I admit, some of the
information is quite fascinating, vocabulary and all), see the recommended
reading section at the end of
this lesson.
First off, what is this fiber
word I keep throwing
around? In our case, A fiber
is a single thread of
material that is combined
to create hair. There are
two main types of fibers
used in doll making,
Natural and Synthetic.
Natural fibers include
Animals and Plants. There is minimal chemical processing involved with
natural fibers. The animal fibers we’ll discuss include Alpaca, Mohair (Goat),
Wool (Sheep), Silk and Human Hair. Plant fibers include Bamboo, Flax (linen)
and Soy Silk (Milk Protein).
Synthetic fibers include Cellulose-based and Polymers. Cellulose-based
fibers are plant based, usually wood, but the processes used to create them
are too extensive to qualify them as strictly natural fibers. Popular cellulose
fibers include rayon (viscose) and Lyocel (tencel). Polymer fibers are
petroleum/plastic based—these are the most processed of all fibers, but the
extensive processes allow for more control over fiber length, appearance and
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consistency. We’ll take a look at three common polymer fibers: Saran, Nylon
and Acrylic.
Natural VS Synthetic Fibers There is much controversy over whether you
should work with natural or synthetic fibers. Each type has its pros and cons
when it comes to doll hair.
Natural Fibers
Pros
There is enormous variety of texture
in natural fibers—from the super
soft silk and angora mohair to the
rougher flax and hemp fibers.
Natural fibers come in many, many
colors—from white to red, to black,
blonde, brown, gray—most any doll
hair color can be found.
Animal locks are the only naturally
curly/wavy fibers available for doll
wigging—all other fibers must be
‘set’ into curls.
Most natural fibers dye beautifully
with acid dyes. (We will play with
dyes in lesson 3).
Some natural fibers can be felted,
which can create amazing doll hair
shapes.
Natural fibers come from renewable
resources and will always be
available as long as the plant or
animal species can thrive.
Natural fibers are 100% recyclable
and biodegradable.
These fibers often come from farms
and small communities—you can
help support small businesses by
choosing natural fibers.
Cons
The staple length of natural fibers is
limited to the growth properties of
the fiber.
Some people have allergies to the
lanolin in some animal fibers and
some are sensitive to itchy fibers.
(There are hypoallergenic
alternatives such as alpaca).
Natural animal fibers can vary widely
even within the same breeds, so
consistent color and curl can be
difficult to achieve unless you buy the
full quantity needed at once.
Many natural fibers cannot be
brushed once they are in place on the
doll.
Animal fibers are more susceptible to
damage from moths and chemicals
(not acids though).
A select few animal fibers (Silk &
Tibetan Lambskins) require the
animal’s death prior to fiber harvest.
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Doll Wigging & Hair Part 1: A Doll Project Tutorial
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Synthetic Fibers
Pros
Synthetic fibers are manmade
and/or man manipulated, which
means we have full control over the
quality of the fiber—textures and
thickness are more consistent than
natural fibers.
You can find many vibrant colors
and super high gloss shine in
synthetic fibers. They can look quite
stunning.
The staple length of synthetic fibers,
especially the polymer fibers, can be
very long—this is how Barbie can
have long, flowing hair of one length.
Most synthetic fibers can be brushed
and styled repeatedly—this is why
children’s play dolls often have
synthetic hair.
Cons
You cannot dye polymer fibers—
typically you must purchase them in
the color you desire.
Some synthetic fibers will melt or
fuse if you apply heat to them—you
must pay attention to whether heat
styling is recommended.
You are dependent on manufacturing
processes and companies for
synthetic fibers.
Synthetic fiber production requires
high energy and water input, which
uses resources and releases
pollutants into the air.
Synthetic fibers are not sustainable
and will not connect you to the
earth—likewise, they are typically not
recyclable or biodegradable.
So, which are better, natural or synthetic fibers? Well, when it comes to
wigging dolls, there is no right or wrong answer to this question—it’s like
comparing lettuce to ice cream. Both can be pretty good. So, instead we will
take a look at the individual properties of the most common doll hair fibers
and you can make an educated decision for your next doll project. But first,
let’s finish that vocabulary, because I’ve already said ‘staple length’ three
times, but you might not know what that is. :]
Important Doll Hair Fiber Terms Just to recap, here is what we have learned
so far:
 Fiber
 Natural Fiber
 Animal Fiber
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



Plant or Vegetable Fiber
Synthetic Fiber
Cellulose-Based Fiber
Polymer Fiber
And here are more important doll hair terms—these mostly apply to natural
fibers, which we’ll be talking about first:







Micron Count
Staple or Staple Length
Locks
Carded
Crimp
Luster
Lanolin
Micron Count This is the system commonly used to measure how heavy the
fiber is. If you buy wool in the yarn shop, usually it will have a micron count on
the label. Micron counts are scientifically devised by measuring the diameter
of several individual fibers and determining the average. The larger the
micron count, the courser the fiber. So, a very fine tussah silk is around 21
microns whereas racka, a heavier type of wool from a Hungarian sheep breed,
has a micron count between 30 and 40.
Generally, the smaller and younger the doll you are wigging, the lower the
desired micron count. A good range for a dollhouse miniature doll would be
14-25 microns.
Larger dolls, older dolls and character dolls can get away with a variety of
micron counts. For most large dolls, I would recommend anywhere from fine
to about mid-coarse 36 microns. Any higher micron count will work fine for a
character doll, or a primitive style doll.
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A quick guideline to how coarse the fiber will be:
Weight or Coarseness
Fine
Medium
Coarse
Very Coarse
Micron Count
10-21
22-31
32-37
38+
Examples
Silk, Fine Merino, Kid Mohair, Viscose
Romney, Mohair, Alpaca
Lincoln, Teeswater, Wensleydale
Human Hair, Guard Hair
Note: With natural animal fibers, micron counts may vary even within the
same breed. For this reason, many breeds have a wide range of micron counts,
such as the Lincoln breed of sheep with a micron range of 33.5-41. Micron
counts are not the be and end all of fiber texture. A ‘coarse’ weight does not
necessarily mean the fiber is rough to the touch—human hair averages at a
whopping 100 microns per strand! It is highly recommended that you feel the
fibers in person before making a decision about your doll’s hair. Often times,
you can order small samples of fibers from a supplier.
For more information on Micron counts and other fiber measurement
systems, I highly recommend “The Fleece & Fiber Sourcebook” (See the
recommended reading section at the end of the lesson).
Staple or Staple Length All natural fibers have a maximum length of growth
prior to harvesting the fibers. This is called the staple. The staple is a very
important measurement in doll making, as with loose fibers, the hair can only
be as long as the staple length unless fibers are spun or fastened together. If
you are buying a fiber and the staple length isn’t given, it is always a good idea
to ask the seller.
Tip: To find the staple length of a fiber you already have, hold one end of a
fiber bundle section firmly with one hand and then grab the remaining body of
fiber with the other hand so that both hands are about 3-4 inches apart—pull
straight outward—if the end doesn’t separate, move your hands further apart
an inch or two and try again, increasing the distance until the fibers separate
easily. The point of separation on either end is your staple length.
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Doll Wigging & Hair Part 1: A Doll Project Tutorial
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Locks These are the natural divisions in an animal’s fur. For example, a single
curl of mohair made up of several individual fibers is called a lock. Locks
provide very convincing mini curls for dolls and are thus very popular in doll
wigging. If you purchase animal fibers in the forms of locks, they should be
clean and separated. To separate a lock, pinch the group of fibers down
toward the base and pull the two sections straight apart.
Carded This term describes fibers that have been brushed out of their natural
locks or curls—the resulting fibers are straighter, smoother and kind of puffed
up with more air between each strand for a more uniform look. Spinners use
carded fiber as it is thin and even. Even though this fiber is straightened, you
can still use it to create doll hair styles including wool felted styles. Carded
fiber is often referred to as Roving.
Crimp The natural curls or kinks in a fiber are referred to as the crimp. Some
animal breeds have fur that grows with a very tight kinky crimp. Others have
a long, wavy crimp. Depending on the scale and ethnicity of your doll, crimp
may be a very important factor.
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i From left to right: high gloss silk, medium gloss alpaca and matte bamboo fibers.
Luster How shiny a fiber is, or how much light it reflects. Luster ranges from
very shiny, to matte in appearance. A little shine tends to look the most
realistic on a doll. High shine is perfect for fantasy and fashion dolls. A matte
luster looks right at home on Waldorf and primitive style dolls.
Lanolin This is the oily substance that gives unwashed animal fibers a greasy
feel. Lanolin is also the cause of some fiber allergies. Alpaca is a popular fiber
for those with allergies because it does not have lanolin. Most purchased
fibers suitable for doll hair will have most or all of the lanolin already washed
out. Sometimes you will see ‘unwashed mohair locks’ for sale—this means the
lanolin is still on the fibers often along with other bits of debris, like grass.
Animal Fibers
Now that you are a fiber pro,
let’s talk about the different
kinds of animal fibers. Most
animals that provide us with
fibers are sheared once or twice
a year—when an animal is
young, its fiber will be softer
than when it grows older.
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Doll Wigging & Hair Part 1: A Doll Project Tutorial
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Much like a close haircut, the shearing process does not harm the animal—
many live a few decades and are treated with utmost care. Two popular doll
hair fibers require that the animal be dead to harvest them—we’ll talk a bit
more about these in a bit. In the tables and descriptions that follow, you will
find staple lengths, micron counts, characteristics and addition information
for each animal breed. Much of the numerical data shared here was recorded
from “The Fleece & Fiber Sourcebook,” by Deborah Robson and Carol Ekarius.
The Sheep
Two sheep with great wool for doll wigging are the English Longwool and the
Merino families. The English Longwool is made up of several breeds. As the
name implies, the wool produced by these animals has nice long staple
lengths. In the Longwool family, we are going to talk about the Lincoln
Longwool, Romney, Teeswater and Wensleydale fibers.
Lincoln Longwool Fiber
Lincolns are the largest sheep we know of. They have been bred to provide
heavier wool not unlike mohair in the way it handles.
Staple Length
Average 7-10” (18-25.5cm)
Micron Count
33.5 minimum
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Characteristics
Natural Coloring
Dyeing
Heavy spiral locks great for direct use in doll wigs
White, grays and black are most common
Has a nice shine that takes colors well
Romney
Romney wool is very versatile and usually has a nice wavy kink from the top
of the lock to the bottom.
Staple Length
4-8” (10-20.5cm)
Micron Count
29-36 microns
Characteristics
Distinctly separate locks with a strong, uniform crimp
Natural Coloring
White, black, gray, silver & brown
Dyeing
Dyes well, but may require over dyeing to even tone
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Teeswater
Staple Length
Micron Count
Characteristics
Natural Coloring
Dyeing
6” (15cm) Longer for first clip
30-36 microns
Long, wavy locks with shiny luster and a smooth feel
Creamy white
Light color and shine make for wonderful dye results
Wensleydale
Staple Length
Micron Count
Characteristics
Natural Coloring
Dyeing
7-12” (18-35.5cm)
30-36 microns
Very long, curly locks—smooth and shiny
White, gray & black
Dyes well
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Doll Wigging & Hair Part 1: A Doll Project Tutorial
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The Merino family is the most commonly recognized sheep breed as Merino
wool is quite popular. There are several different strains of Merino sheep.
Merino is often combined with silk to increase the staple length of the roving.
Merino
Staple Length
Micron Count
Characteristics
Natural Coloring
Dyeing
2-5” (5-12.5cm)
11.5-25 microns
Dense, fine elastic wool with consistent crimp
Mostly white with a few color varieties
Dyes beautifully
Tibetan Lambskins
Lambskins from the Tibetan
sheep breed are quite popular
in doll making as the fiber is
known for being super soft,
easy to dye and naturally
crimped into fine spirals
perfect for the smallest scale
dolls. Unlike the other natural
animal fibers used in doll
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making, the Tibetan lambskins are sold as a full skin making the hair rooted
and easy to comb out, stitch into a wig with cap, or dye without losing the
natural lock shapes and order.
The Tibetan breed is harvested for food at a young age and the skin along with
super soft fiber is a byproduct which is then sold. Because usage of this fiber
requires that the animal be deceased, those working with the fiber should be
aware that usage of the skins may cause discomfort to and aversion by
collectors who are vegetarians and/or animal rights activists. Generally,
Tibetan lambskins are white, but you can purchase them predyed in many
shades.
Angora Mohair Goats
With Angora mohair goats, it is widely accepted that the goat breed is referred
to as “Angora” and the fiber produced by said goat is called “Mohair.” Kid
Mohair, the fibers produced with the animal’s first shearing, is the finest of the
fibers. The Angora goat is the only goat who produces such fine, curly locks so
popular to doll makers.
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ii Just one more reason why mohair is the hair of choice for many wig makers--look at how versatile the curls are both in
these locks and the two doll wigs.
Mohair Fibers
Staple Length
Micron Count
Characteristics
Natural Coloring
Dyeing
4-6” (10-15cm)
20-24 microns for kid, 39 microns for adults
Distinct luscious waves with curly tips
Brilliant white with rare red and black shades as well
Arguably dyes the best out of all natural fibers
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iii Two locks from different colors of angora goats. The fibers on the left are from a younger, second year animal and the
large, dark lock on the right is from a more mature animal.
Note: Cashmere is another popular goat fiber you have probably heard of. The
softness of cashmere is quite famous in the clothing industry. At 1-2,” the
staple length of cashmere is quite short, so it isn’t the best fiber for wigging
dolls.
Alpacas
Alpacas are a member of the camel
family, called Camelids. This is my
personal favorite natural animal fiber
to work with—the Alpaca fiber comes
in a huge range of natural colors and
is especially wonderful when blended
with silk. Plus alpacas are so darn
cute and cuddly looking!
Alpacas do not produce lanolin on
their fur, so they are hypoallergenic.
The individual fibers are not barbed
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like many wools, which means the fiber doesn’t really felt well, but it also
means it is not as itchy when worn against the skin. Unlike other livestock,
Alpacas do not carry many parasites such as fleas. Alpacas have two breeds,
the Huacaya (pronounced wah-kay-ya) and the Suri. :]
Huacaya
Staple Length
Micron Count
Characteristics
Natural Coloring
Dyeing
Mohair Fibers
Staple Length
Micron Count
Characteristics
Natural Coloring
Dyeing
Up to 11” (28cm) per year
15-35 microns, average 24-26
Long, shiny locks with varying crimp
White, many shades of brown, black, gray & spotted
The lighter fibers will dye best, but because Alpacas
come in so many colors, natural solutions are readily
available for doll hair.
2-6” (5-15cm)
15-35 microns, average 24-26
Straighter, shiny locks with no crimp
White, many shades of brown, black, gray & spotted—
most Suri alpacas in North America are white or light
brown.
The lighter fibers will dye best, but because Alpacas
come in so many colors, natural solutions are readily
available for doll hair.
Tip: When in doubt, mohair and alpaca are two very reliable types of doll
hair—both have a very fine texture, yet they are not slippery, so they are
easier to work with than many finer fibers. Mohair is the most commonly used
natural fiber in doll wigging. I like both types.
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Silk
Silk is made from the
cocoons of an order of
insects called
Lepidoptra. Generally,
the creatures that make
the silk we use are
referred to as
‘silkworms.’ Silkworms
are actually a special
iv Left: Tussah Silk; Right Mulberry Silk
type of caterpillar that
spins a silken cocoon and becomes a beautiful white moth when allowed to
hatch. I say “allowed to hatch,” because generally the larva is killed inside the
cocoon before the silk can be harvested. Silk is one, long continuous fiber
wrapped around and around—the staple length for silk is yards or miles. In
order to keep the silk strands from breaking and diminishing the production
value, the cocoon must be unwrapped before the insect has a chance to hatch
and break the strands.
Silk is harvested when the spun cocoons are boiled and softened in hot water
and unwound several at a time onto giant spools. In some cultures the
deceased larva is then eaten so no part goes to waste. There is a great deal of
controversy over silk and the
exploitation of the insects that
produce it. To illustrate the
large quantity of cocoons
needed for silk production,
10,000 silkworms are killed to
make a single silk sari.
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Some argue that due to dietary needs this creature would not survive in the
wild and that we keep the species alive by continuing to harvest silk. But it
really comes down to a matter of personal choice. Some of the natural plant
fibers and synthetic cellulose fibers described in the following sections make
excellent silk substitutes when it comes to wigging dolls!
There are two types of silk fibers used in doll wigging. These include the
domesticated Bombyx mori, or mulberry silkworms, and the wild tussah silk
variety. Mulberry silkworms only eat mulberry leaves—lots and lots of them.
The resulting silk is a smooth, brilliant white. Tussah silk worms eat a great
variety of leaves, which makes them easier to raise, but also causes variations
in the silk appearance. Tussah silk is usually a bit wavy and ranges in color
from warm tan to dark brown.
Human Hair
Many doll makers and antique restoration experts swear by the use of human
hair for dolls. The scale of human hair is much larger than the finer fibers
popular in most doll wigging. Human hair varies from 50 to 120 microns with
the average being around 100. While softness, flexibility and curl differ among
human hair types and ethnicities, the lowest weight, 50 microns, is still in the
‘coarse’ range of the microns scale. For this reason, human hair does not work
for wigging very small dolls—especially in terms of styling. You can curl
human hair, but you can’t make teeny tiny scale curls and the ends would look
very blunt at small scales. I would say the smallest possible size doll for
human hair application would be about the size of a 11” Bleuette with 7” wig.
We know from personal experience that human hair styles well and that
healthy hair is highly elastic. Our familiarity with human hair makes it an easy
choice when it comes to doll wigging. Just make sure that the scale is right for
your doll and that you have enough hair for the project.
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Historically, human hair was often used in childrens’ dolls—especially those
dolls created to represent a particular child. The oldest known manufactured
dolls with human hair were created in the 1600’s. (See? even way back when
we were obsessed with dolls that represent us as the American Girl and Ball
Jointed Dolls of today widely do :].) Now human hair is primarily used in doll
restoration and for antique style dolls, but there are many experimental
applications for human hair as well. I read recently that some collectors reroot
their Blythe dolls with human hair. With a 10-11” wig size, Blythe has such a
large head, she would be a perfect candidate for human hair fibers. We’ll play
more with human hair fibers in lesson seven, where I go into detail about doll
hair restoration.
Natural Plant Fibers
Plant fibers, also called vegetable fibers, are generally stronger than animal
fibers, especially when you compare the two when wet.
Soy Silk, or Milk
Protein
Soy silk, also called milk
protein fiber, is a rather
new fiber derived from
soybean residue after
tofu manufacturing. The
fiber looks and feels very
much like tussah silk, so
it is a good animal
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friendly replacement for natural silk. The soy silk also dyes beautifully. Staple
length may vary, but the soy silk I have has a staple length of 5-6” (14-16cm).
Flax
Flax is stronger than silk, which is considered to be a pretty strong fiber. Flax
comes from a plant that is processed from the top of the stem to the bottom of
the roots to make for a very long staple length, 20-30 inches is a good average
estimate. Flax is a rather stiff, sort of straw like fiber, but when it is worked, it
becomes a softer, finer yarn and the ‘flax’ name changes to linen. This is why
you will often see the terms flax and linen used for the same things.
Due to its wiry sort of texture, flax alone would not work well for wigging
dolls of most types. I would wig a primitive doll with flax. Also, because of the
long staple length, flax can be used to help stabilize fibers with shorter staple
lengths. If you want to try flax, I recommend a flax blend.
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Bamboo
Bamboo is a relatively inexpensive, more modern plant fiber. The luster has a
nice glowing shine and the staple length is about 5” (12-13cm). There are two
types of bamboo available. The first is typically ecru white and is dyed to
achieve different bright and beautiful colors—the white bamboo is glossy and
makes a great silk substitute. There is also a process of burning the bamboo,
which results in what is called ‘carbonized’ bamboo fiber. The carbonized
fiber has a very matte, charcoal appearance not unlike what spun coal might
look like :].
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While the regular white dyed bamboo is perfect for multiple applications, the
carbonized variety would be perfectly suited to more experimental type
applications—including, but not limited to dolls with a slight air of mystery or
creep factor!
Note: One caution for plant fibers is that they generally ignite and burn easily,
so keep the fibers away from open flame. If fire is a concern and you want to
use a natural fiber, animal fibers are much less likely to ignite.
Cellulose Synthetic Fibers
While cellulose fibers are plant based (as the term “cellulose” implies), they
are not considered natural due to the extensive processes required to form
the fibers. Most cellulose fibers are made from wood, including the two we’ll
discuss here, Viscose (Rayon) and Tencil.
Processing aside, the main difference between cellulose synthetic and plant
based fibers is that the cellulose fibers generally are much glossier and have a
more even thickness than the natural plant fibers. The bamboo fiber certainly
makes a great rival in terms of shine, but the cellulose fibers are shinier.
Extreme shine can sometimes give dolls a plastic look, which can be
intentional as we’ll see with the polymer synthetics. The cellulose synthetics
are just shiny enough to outshine human hair, but not so much that they
wouldn’t be believable as realistic hair for dolls, so they are a great happy
medium if you are looking for something in between.
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Viscose (Rayon)
Viscose, Rayon, and Art silk are three
terms used to label the same fiber.
The name Viscose is common in
Europe, while Rayon is a US term.
“Art Silk” was adopted by the textile
industry due to the fiber’s similar
look and feel to real silk.
Typically doll suppliers will call the
fiber Viscose. Viscose is extremely
popular for miniature doll wigging.
These fibers, which are easily accessible online, have been dyed to closely
match many human hair colors. A small amount goes a long way for a little
doll, so it is likely that even the smallest quantities will be enough to wig
several dolls. The micron count is comparable to silk. The staple length is at
least 6-7” (14-16cm).
Tencil/Lyocell
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Lyocell fiber, commonly referred by its brand name Tencil, is yet another
cellulose synthetic fiber developed to imitate fine silk—let me tell you, it does
a pretty great job of it! This fiber was released in 1991, making it one of the
newer synthetic fibers available on the market.
By touch, tencil feels softer and more slippery than the viscose. Tencil’s luster
has an almost glow-like sheen. This fiber would make fabulous wigs for ball
joined dolls! The standard fiber color is a bright, brilliant white, but lyocell
takes dyes beautifully. The average staple length is comparable to the long
wools. The micron count is 15-22.
Note: Acetate is another cellulose based fiber which is made from wood pulp
and/or cotton fibers. You know those really cheap scruffy looking doll wigs, or
the poor dolls with the hair that permanently looks statically charged even
though the doll is new? That could very likely be acetate you are witnessing.
Acetate is a horrible, cheap fiber for doll hair, so while it is commonly used in
doll manufacturing, I do not recommend it for your projects, so I am just not
going to cover it here. Pretend this conversation never happened ;].
Polymer Synthetic Fibers
Polymer fibers are light weight, very strong and resistant to damage. Play
dolls, Blythe, fashion dolls and most plastic/vinyl dolls have hair made with
synthetic polymer fibers. There are varying degrees of quality among polymer
fibers ranging from cheap and straw-like to shimmering and downright
gorgeous. If you are looking for a quality polymer fiber, look to nylon and
saran hair types. Though it is not as strong and is recommended for rooted
hair, acrylic fibers also deserve a mention here among the polymers.
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Nylon
My Little Ponies are rooted with nylon fibers. Nylon is much thicker than
saran and the strands have a dense, plastic feel. Nylon is very easy to style and
will hold curls. This fiber is available in many colors including some pretty off
the wall colors like seafoam and electric blue. Nylon can be slippery to work
with and will take a little getting used to. Staple lengths can vary anywhere
from 6 to 36 inches.
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Saran
Saran hair is the most common type of hair found in Barbie dolls. This plastic
based fiber is relatively cheap and comes in many, many different colors
including special mixed blends. Saran tends to have a greasy feel. This can
easily be remedied with a wash or two (or three). This fiber is best used
straight, as it doesn’t hold curls or style well. Also, be cautious about UV
exposure and the brighter colors, as they will fade over time. Because saran is
a synthetic polymer fiber, the staple length can be infinite. Most suppliers
offer saran in lengths up to 30” (76 cm). Saran is finer than Nylon.
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Acrylic
If you have ever used
synthetic fur on a doll,
chances are, it was
probably acrylic. Acrylic
fibers are made to mimic
other fibers like natural
furs and wool roving.
Where saran and nylon
feel cool and slick to the
touch, acrylic fibers feel
warm and spongy, like
wool. Some acrylic fibers
can feel a bit cheap (think
cheap yarn feel), but some
are not bad and the price is almost always low. If you are just starting out in
doll wigging or your have a small supply budget, acrylic can be a great way to
build up your materials stash :]. Acrylic can also be great for kid projects due
to the low price and the ease of handling.
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Fiber Resources Guide
Natural Fiber Resources
Harbor Fibers Studio (USA Resource) for a large selection of natural animal
and plant based fibers, visit the Harbor Fibers Studio shop on Etsy
http://www.etsy.com/shop/HarborFibers. Don’t see what you need? Contact
the owner—she might have it available even if it isn’t in her shop! The
proprietor, Irina (pictured above) knows a great deal about the natural fibers
used in doll making—she carries most all the natural fibers we’ve discussed in
this lesson including several kinds of sheep wools, mohair, alpaca, bamboo,
tussah silk, soy silk (milk fiber) and more. She can help you determine the best
fibers and quantities needed for your project.
Now that you know about staple length, microns, luster and crimp, just let her
know what you are looking for! At her studio in Gig Harbor Washington, Irina
teaches workshops on felting and working with fibers and is very
knowledgeable about each fiber and its properties. Even more impressive,
Irina personally visits many of the animals from whom she purchases her
animal based fibers—she knows the animals are extremely well cared for and
that the fibers are high quality! (By now, you might be thinking, this is a crazy,
glowing review…what, does this author have stock in the company? Haha no, I
just can’t say enough good things about this gal and her business.)
When I presented this doll fiber research project to Irina, she invited me to
come to her studio and gave me a three hour presentation on the common
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vocabulary used in the fiber world as well as the properties of each fiber. She
gave me samples of each fiber so I would have them to photograph for you.
Visit her online shop and if you don’t see what you are looking for, or you need
more assistance, drop her a note! She ships international too :] Oh, and I
highly recommend the alpaca silk blends, tussah silks and merino silk
blends—heavenly soft! [email protected].
Doll Artist’s Workshop (USA based) carries viscose, dyed tussah silk and
Tibetan lambskins. These are three popular fibers for miniature dolls.
http://www.minidolls.com/showpage.php?pageID=dollhair
Cool Cat Collection Wefted Mohair (Based in Taiwan)
http://stores.ebay.com/CoolCat-Collection-Doll-Accessories/1-MohairWefted/_i.html?_fsub=550807012&_sid=372611742&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
Synthetic Fiber Resources
Restore Doll The most recommended site to order polymer synthetic fibers
from is RestoreDoll.com. I placed an order and it came within a few days. They
provide Katsilk (Saran) Doll Hair, flocking and Rerooting supplies
http://stores.restoredoll.com/StoreFront.bok
My Little Customs (UK Based) Saran and Nylon hair—will help you find the
quantity need for your rerooting projects. http://www.mylittlecustoms.com/
Retro Dolls A UK based small company for synthetic fibers:
http://www.retrodolls.co.uk/index.html
IxTEE Hong Kong Based synthetic hair seller specializing in supplies for
Blythe: http://stores.ebay.com/IxTEE-COM/1-Heat-Proof-Hair-Weft/_i.html?_fsub=868518012&_sid=215023472&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
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Recommended Reading
If you want to learn more about natural animal fibers, I highly recommend the
“Fleece & Fiber Sourcebook” by Deborah Robson and Carol Ekarius. This full
color volume contains descriptions and images of over 200 fibers across the
world. The images of individual fibers are so detailed, you will feel like you
have your own journal of different fibers in each stage from locks to spun
wool.
In addition to writing an amazing book, Deborah and Carol are extremely
helpful and passionate about fibers! I needed a little help determining
whether “Tibetan” really was the name for a sheep breed or if it was simply a
name applied to the fiber or region. I wrote an email to these ladies and within
a day they responded with great additional information! They continued to
answer all the animal fiber questions I posed—these gals are quite
knowledgeable about fibers!
This book also contains a more extensive section on micron counts as well as
other weights and measurements used for fibers. Also, learn more fiberrelated vocabulary! The page below has several links for where to purchase
the book. I recommend a hard copy over a digital one as you can really get a
sense of the fiber colors and scales when holding the book in your hands.
http://www.fleeceandfiber.com/
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This is what my research for this lesson looked like. Fiber madness! And
it’s just the beginning. (Can you spot Molly, my tiny sheep friend?)
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Complete Wigging Workshop Outline
Each lesson will guide you with resources, projects and complete information
for doll hair wigging and application methods of all kinds for dolls in multiple
scales from the smallest dollhouse miniature doll to 18” American Girl style
dolls and larger. Lessons are released in subscription format on the 15th of
every month. New subscribers will receive all prior monthly lessons at the
time of purchase.
Lesson 1- The fibers used in doll hair. (Immediate release)
Lesson 2- Wigging supplies & Resources, Wig cap projects & a primer on
natural hair growth patterns. (Release Jan 15th, 2013)
Lesson 3- Manipulating & Dyeing Fibers (Release Feb 15th, 2013)
Lesson 4- Wig Making Part A (Release Mar 15th, 2013)
Lesson 5- Wig Making Part B (Release Apr 15th, 2013)
Lesson 6- Direct Fiber Application Methods (Release May 15th, 2013)
Lesson 7- Rooting & Rerooting Methods (Release Jun 15th, 2013)
Lesson 8- Styling & Restoration (Release Jul 15th, 2013)
Lesson 9- Fabric, Sewn & Felted Hair Methods (Release Aug 15th, 2013)
Lesson 10- Sculpted, Artistic Hair & Advanced Styles (Release Sep 15th, 2013)
Lesson 11- Additional Tips & Techniques (Release Oct 15th, 2013)
Would you like to purchase the rest of this tutorial? Visit my shop for
your Complete Guide to Doll Hair & Wigging Tutorial:
http://www.etsy.com/shop/DollProject
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This is a Doll Project Tutorial from Jessica Hamilton
I send out free projects (mostly doll-related) on the first Friday of every
month. If you are not a subscriber and would like to join my free email
newsletter list, you can sign up at http://dollproject.com :].
Copyright and Usage
© 2012 Jessica Hamilton, dba Doll Project
All rights reserved. No part of this tutorial may be reproduced or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise
without prior written permission of Jessica Hamilton.