Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research Vol.35, September 2010, pp. 243-249 Prediction of tensile strength of polyester/cotton blended woven fabrics a Tanveer Hussain Department of Textile Processing, National Textile University, Faisalabad 37610, Pakistan Zulfiqar Ali Malik Department of Yarn Manufacturing, National Textile University, Faisalabad 37610, Pakistan and Anwaruddin Tanwari Department of Textile Engineering, Mehran University of Engineering & Technology, Jamshoro, Pakistan Received 1 October 2009; revised received and accepted 11 December 2009 Statistical models have been developed for the prediction of tensile strength of polyester/cotton (52:48) blended woven fabrics. The models have been developed based on the empirical data obtained from carefully developed 234 fabric samples with different constructions using 15, 20 and 25 tex yarns in warp and weft. The prediction ability and accuracy of the developed models are assessed by correlation analysis of the predicted and actual warp and weft fabric strip-strength values of another set of 36 fabric samples. The results show a very strong ability and accuracy of the prediction models. Keywords: Statistical model, Tensile strength, Fabric, Yarn, Polyester/cotton blend 1 Introduction All finished fabrics must conform to certain performance specifications depending upon their intended end use. These performance specifications include, although are not limited to, the type of fibre or blend used, yarn linear density, fabric count, weave design, fabric weight (g/m2 or oz/yd2), fabric breaking strength, colour, and finish. Since fabric breaking strength might change during wet processing, depending upon the processing conditions, the selection of greige cloth with suitable strength is important in order to meet the strength requirement of the finished fabric, taking into account any strength loss during processing. Similarly, in order to produce a woven fabric of a specified breaking strength, the selection of yarn of suitable tensile strength is also very critical. Often the selection of yarn of suitable strength along with other desirable characteristics is made based on experience and/or hit and trial methods. Sometimes the selected yarn would luckily result in the production of fabric with specified strength, while at times the desired results would not be obtained resulting in huge loss of material, time and other —————— a To whom all the correspondence should be addressed. E-mail: [email protected] resources. A further complexity is that there is no clearly defined exact relationship between the yarn strength and the resulting fabric strength, as there are many other factors which also play a vital role in determining the final fabric strength, including fabric density and weave design1-3. Although some research has been done in the past for the prediction of tensile behaviour of woven fabric using geometric4-6, mechanical7,8, energy9 and statistical models10, there is currently no simple prediction model available based on the empirical data which could be used for the prediction of fabric strength of polyester/cotton blends, keeping into account all necessary factors as given above. The present study was therefore undertaken to develop statistical models for the prediction of tensile strength of 52:48 polyester/cotton blended woven fabrics using empirical data based on a carefully manufactured range of woven fabrics under controlled conditions using a systematic selection of yarns. 2 Materials and Methods Polyester/cotton (52:48) blended yarns of 15, 20 and 25 tex were spun by ring spinning method using cotton fibres with 27.55 mm span length (2.5 %), 13.08 mm span length (50 %), 48.98% uniformity index, 1.85 dtex fineness (4.70 µg/inch micronaire), INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2010 244 6.03 × 108 N/m2 (87500 lbs/in²) fibre bundle strength and 7.2 % trash content; and polyester fibres with 38mm staple length, 1.33 dtex (1.2 den) fineness, 6.8 g/tex tenacity and semi-dull lustre. One hundred cones of yarn of each count were selected randomly from the lot spun from the polyester and cotton fibres of the specifications given above and then tested for their characteristics after conditioning under standard atmosphere for 48 h. Linear density of yarns was determined according to ISO 2060:1994 test method. Tensile properties of yarns were measured by Uster Tensorapid-4 according to ISO 2062:1993 test method. Uster Tester-4 was used to determine Um% and total imperfections (thin places, thick places and neps). Hairiness was determined at a speed of 400m/min according to ISO 16549:2004 test method. Semiautomatic twist tester was used to measure the twist per meter in the yarn according to ISO 17202:2002. The specifications of yarns are given in Table 1. One hundred and thirty five (135) fabric samples, each in both plain weave (float length = 1) and twill weave (float length = 3), were woven on projectile weaving machine (P 7150) using the constructions given in Table 2. All warp yarns were sized before weaving with 12.5% size using a sizing recipe containing mixture of thin boiling starch, poly vinyl alcohol, acrylic size, and a softener. All the woven fabric samples were desized by enzymatic method using 2-4% (o.w.f.) Bactasol PHC liquid desizing enzyme, 3-5 g/L Imerol PCJ liquid (surfactant), and 0.5-1 g/L Sirrix 2UD liquid (sequestering agent). All chemicals were provided Table 1 — Specifications of polyester-cotton (PC) yarns Property 15 tex PC 20 tex PC 25 tex PC Breaking force, cN 272.47 (9.45) 391.82 (8.90) 537.93 (8.50) Elongation, % 7.25 (9.85) 7.96 (9.90) 8.19 (10.10) Linear density, tex 14.66 (1.23) 19.77 (1.54) 24.86 (1.25) Unevenness, % 12.59 13.79 12.15 Total imperfections 956 785 731 Hairiness 5.79 6.16 6.72 Twists/m 1049.20 (3.22) 841.48 (3.92) 747.97 (3.95) Values in parentheses are the coefficient of variation (%) for the respective property. Table 2 — Fabric constructions details Sl No. 1 Set 1 a Set 2 a Set 3 a Set 4a Set 5a Set 6a 15×15/ 15×20/ 15×25/ 20×15/ 20×20/ 20×25/ 40×40 40×40 40×40 40×40 40×40 40×40 2 15×15/ 15×20/ 15×25/ 20×15/ 20×20/ 20×25/ 50×40 50×40 50×40 50×40 50×40 50×40 3 15×15/ 15×20/ 15×25/ 20×15/ 20×20/ 20×25/ 50×50 50×50 50×50 50×50 50×50 50×50 4 15×15/ 15×20/ 15×25/ 20×15/ 20×20/ 20×25/ 60×40 60×40 60×40 60×40 60×40 60×40 5 15×15/ 15×20/ 15×25/ 20×15/ 20×20/ 20×25/ 60×50 60×50 60×50 60×50 60×50 60×50 6 15×15/ 15×20/ 15×25/ 20×15/ 20×20/ 20×25/ 60×60 60×60 60×60 60×60 60×60 60×60 7 15×15/ 15×20/ 15×25/ 20×15/ 20×20/ 20×25/ 70×40 70×40 70×40 70×40 70×40 70×40 8 15×15/ 15×20/ 15×25/ 20×15/ 20v20/ 20×25/ 70×50 70×50 70×50 70v50 70×50 70×50 9 15×15/ 15×20/ 15×25/ 20×15/ 20×20/ 20×25/ 70×60 70×60 70×60 70×60 70×60 70×60 10 15×15/ 15×20/ 15×25/ 20×15/ 20×20/ 20×25/ 70×70 70×70 70×70 70×70 70×70 70×70 11 15×15/ 15×20/ 15×25/ 20×15/ 20×20/ 20×25/ 80×40 80×40 80×40 80×40 80×40 80×40 12 15×15/ 15×20/ 15×25/ 20×15/ 20×20/ 20×25/ 80×50 80×50 80×50 80×50 80×50 80×50 13 15×15/ 15×20/ 15×25/ 20×15/ 20×20/ 20×25/ 80×60 80×60 80×60 80×60 80×60 80×60 14 15×15/ 15×20/ 15×25/ 20×15/ 20×20/ 20×25/ 80×70 80×70 80×70 80×70 80×70 80×70 15 15×15/ 15×20/ 15×25/ 20×15/ 20×20/ 20×25/ 80×80 80×80 80×80 80×80 80×80 80×80 a Fabric constructions are given as: warp count × weft count/ends per 25mm × picks per 25mm. Set 7a Set 8a Set 9a 25×15/ 40×40 25×15/ 50×40 25×15/ 50×50 25×15/ 60×40 25×15/ 60×50 25×15/ 60×60 25×15/ 70×40 25×15/ 70×50 25×15/ 70×60 25×15/ 70×70 25×15/ 80×40 25×15/ 80×50 25×15/ 80×60 25×15/ 80×70 25×15/ 80×80 25×20/ 40×40 25×20/ 50×40 25×20/ 50×50 25×20/ 60×40 25×20/ 60×50 25×20/ 60×60 25×20/ 70×40 25×20/ 70×50 25×20/ 70×60 25×20/ 70×70 25×20/ 80×40 25×20/ 80×50 25×20/ 80×60 25×20/ 80×70 25×20/ 80×80 25×25/ 40×40 25×25/ 50×40 25×25/ 50×50 25×25/ 60×40 25×25/ 60×50 25×25/ 60×60 25×25/ 70×40 25×25/ 70×50 25×25/ 70×60 25×25/ 70×70 25×25/ 80×40 25×25/ 80×50 25×25/ 80×60 25×25/ 80×70 25×25/ 80×80 HUSSAIN et al.: TENSILE STRENGTH OF POLYESTER/COTTON FABRICS by Clariant Pakistan Ltd. The desizing of all fabric samples was done individually on laboratory winch machine at liquor-to-goods ratio of 15:1, pH of 6 and temperature of 60-90°C. After desizing, fabric samples were rinsed hot followed by cold and dried at room temperature under shade in order to avoid any possible effect of direct sunlight on the fabric strength. The purpose of desizing was to remove the warp size and its contribution to the fabric tensile strength. The enzymatic method of desizing was used because unlike oxidative or acidic desizing, it does not cause any loss in fabric strength. After desizing, all the fabric samples were first preconditioned at 47°C and 10 - 25 % RH for 4 h in a hot air oven and then conditioned for 24 h in standard atmosphere. Then test specimens were prepared and tensile strength was determined both in warp and weft directions according to ISO standard test method 13934-1. Calibrated universal strength tester by SDL Atlas UK was used for determining the fabric 245 tensile strength using a gauge length of 200 mm and an extension speed of 100 mm/min. Out of a total number of 270 samples, the data of 234 samples were used for developing the statistical prediction models while data of 36 samples (18 plain weave + 18 twill weave) was used to check the validity of the developed models. All statistical analyses were done using MINITABTM statistical software. 3 Results and Discussion 3.1 Warp-way Fabric Strength Prediction Model Table 3 gives the best subsets of regression models for fabric strength. The table shows 13 different statistical models for warp-way strength, as given by the MINITABTM, including different predictor variables such as X (warp count), Y (weft count), warp yarn strength (cN), weft yarn strength (cN), E (ends/25mm), P (picks/25mm) and FL (float length). Model numbers 9 and 10 are found to be the Table 3 — Best subsets regression table for fabric strength models Variable R-Sq R-Sq (adj) C-p 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 6 6 7 49.8 49.6 94.5 94.3 95.2 95.1 95.9 95.7 96.2 96.2 96.2 96.2 96.2 49.5 49.3 94.5 94.3 95.2 95.1 95.8 95.6 96.1 96.1 96.1 96.1 96.1 2758.1 2769.9 99.0 110.9 56.6 62.7 20.3 31.7 4.0 4.0 6.0 6.0 8.0 S X Y Wp. Str. Warp-way fabric strength model 122.64 122.89 x 40.662 41.392 x 37.878 38.289 35.295 36.110 x 34.027 34.027 x 34.100 x 34.100 x x 34.174 x x x x x x x x x x x x Wt. Str. E P FL x x x x x x x x x x x x x x - x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x Weft-way fabric strength model 1 56.9 56.7 1985.2 97.891 x 1 37.1 36.8 3000.0 118.20 x 2 93.9 93.9 83.0 36.758 x x 2 93.9 93.9 84.1 36.824 x x 3 94.8 94.8 39.2 34.020 x x x 3 94.8 94.7 40.4 34.092 x x x 4 95.2 95.2 20.6 32.738 x x x x 4 95.2 95.1 21.8 32.821 x x x x 5 95.6 95.5 5.3 31.631 x x x x x 5 95.6 95.5 5.6 31.651 x x x x x 6 95.6 95.5 6.2 31.624 x x x x x x 6 95.6 95.5 6.5 31.643 x x x x x x 7 95.6 95.5 8 31.680 x x x x x x X ‘x’ sign indicates that the variables included in the model; and ‘-’ indicates that the variables are not included. R-Sq —Percentage of response variable variation; R-Sq (adj) — Percentage of response variable variation, adjusted for the no. of predictors; C-p — A statistic used as an aid in choosing between competing multiple regression models; S —Standard error of regression; X —Warp count; Y — Weft count; Wp. Str — warp yarn strength (cN); Wt. Str. — weft yarn strength (cN); E —ends/25mm; P —picks/25mm; and FL —Float length. INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2010 246 Table 4 — Analysis of variance for fabric strength models Source Regression Linear Interaction Residual Error Total DF 6 5 1 227 233 Seq SS 6915909 6682408 233500 30483 6946392 Adj SS Warp-way 6915909 5706480 233500 30483 6946392 Adj MS F-value P-value 1152651 1141296 233500 134 - 9E+03 8E+04 2E+03 - 0.000 0.000 0.000 - Weft-way Regression 6 5115380 5115380 852563 5E+03 0.000 Linear 5 4927089 4995255 999051 6E+04 0.000 Interaction 1 188291 188291 188291 1E+03 0.000 Residual Error 227 39834 39834 175 Total 233 5155214 DF —Degree of freedom; Seq SS —Sequential sum of squares; Adj SS —Adjusted sum of square; and Adj MS —Adjusted mean square. best models with high R-Sq & adjusted R-Sq, and low S & C-p values close to the number of predictors contained in the model. Model 9 with warp strength, weft strength, E, P and FL as predictor variables was selected for further analysis using response surface regression. Analysis of variance for response surface regression is given in Table 4. Values of P for regression, linear and interaction indicate the significant effects of the selected predictor variables on the warp-way fabric strength. The response surface regression coefficients are given in Table 5. Values of P indicate the significant linear effect of warp strength, weft strength, E, P, FL and significant interactions of warp strength*E at α-level (0.05). All analysis was done using coded units of the predictor variables as recommended in the MINITABTM help files. The regression equation obtained form Table 5, which can be used to predict the warp-way tensile strength of fabric, is given as follows: SSP = 434.93 + 132.32wp. str. + 11.66wt. str. + 170.13E + 24.46P - 14.90FL + 60.45 (wp. str.*E) where SSP is the strip strength of fabric in warp direction (N); wp. str., the coded value of single yarn strength of warp; E, the coded value of ends/25mm; P, the coded value of picks/25mm, and FL, the coded value of float length. This equation can be used to calculate the predicted response by putting in the coded values of the predictor variables. Because the coefficients were estimated using coded units, putting uncoded factor values into this equation would generate incorrect predictions about warp strip strength. The following alternative equation obtained from the response Table 5 — Response surface regression coefficients for fabric strength models Predictor Regression coefficient Standard error T-value P-value coefficient Constant Wp. str. Wt. str. E P FL Wp. str.*E Warp-way strength 434.93 1.0604 410.153 132.32 1.0051 131.651 11.66 0.9262 12.589 170.13 1.3638 124.743 24.46 1.3415 18.233 -14.90 0.7575 -19.665 60.45 1.4496 41.699 R-Sq = 99.6% R-Sq(adj) = 99.5% 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 Constant Wp. str. Wt. str. E P FL Wt. str.*P Weft-way strength 415.10 1.2122 342.430 9.42 1.0593 8.895 129.67 1.2097 107.185 16.94 1.5580 10.875 165.90 1.5344 108.117 -14.01 0.8660 -16.177 53.39 1.6299 32.757 R-Sq = 99.2% R-Sq(adj) = 99.2% 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 surface regression analysis using MINITABTM contains the estimated regression coefficient using data in uncoded units. This equation can be used to calculate the predicted response by directly putting in the uncoded values of warp yarn strength, weft yarn strength, ends/25mm, picks/25mm and float length as given below: SSP = -5.00240 - 0.369284wp. str. + 0.0878511wt. str. - 0.720099E + 1.22297P - 14.8974FL + 0.0227702 (wp. str.*E) where SSP is the strip strength of fabric in warp direction (N); wp. str., the single yarn strength of warp (cN), E, the number of ends/25mm; P, the number of picks/25mm; and FL, the actual float length (e.g. 1 for plain weave, 3 for 3/1 twill fabric). The SSP equation contains an interaction effect of warp yarn strength and ends/25mm. Response surface HUSSAIN et al.: TENSILE STRENGTH OF POLYESTER/COTTON FABRICS 247 Fig. 1— Response surface plots for (a) warp and (b) weft yarn strengths plot for this interaction effect is given in Fig. 1a. As can be seen from the figure, the increase in warp strip strength with the increase in number of ends/25mm is much sharper when the strength of individual yarns is higher. 3.2 Weft-way Fabric Strength Prediction Model Table 3 gives the best subsets regression table for weft-way fabric strip strength. The table shows 13 different statistical models including different predictor variables such as X (warp count), Y (weft count), warp yarn strength (cN), weft yarn strength (cN), E (ends/25mm), P (picks/25mm) and FL (float length). Model numbers 9 seems to be the best model with high R-Sq & adjusted R-Sq, and low S & C-p values. Hence, model 9 with warp strength, weft strength, E, P and FL as predictor variables was selected for further analysis using response surface regression. Analysis of variance for response surface regression is given in Table 4. Values of P for regression, linear and interaction indicate the significant effects of the selected predictor variables on the weft-way fabric strength. Response surface regression coefficients are given in Table 5. Values of P indicate the significant linear effect of warp strength, weft strength, E, P, FL and significant interactions of weft strength*P at α-level (0.05). The regression equation obtained form Table 5, which can be used to predict the weft-way tensile strength of fabric, is given below: SST = 415.10 + 9.42wp. str. + 129.67wt. str. + 16.94E + 165.90P - 14.01FL + 53.39 (wt. str.*P) strength of weft; E, the coded value of ends/25mm; P, the coded value of picks/25mm; and FL, the coded value of float length This equation can be used to calculate the predicted response by putting in the coded values of the predictor variables. Because the coefficients were estimated using coded units, putting uncoded values into this equation would generate incorrect predictions about weft strip strength. The following alternative equation obtained from the response surface regression analysis using MINITABTM contains the estimated regression coefficient using data in uncoded units. This equation can be used to calculate the predicted response by directly putting in the uncoded values of warp yarn strength, weft yarn strength, ends/25mm, picks/25mm and float length, as shown below: SST = -41.0513 + 0.0709942wp. str. - 0.229831wt. str. + 0.847188E + 0.145404P - 14.0085 + 0.0201125 (wt. str.*P) where SST is the strip strength of fabric in weft direction (N); wt. str., the single yarn strength of weft (cN); E, the number of ends/25mm; P, the number of picks/25mm; and FL, the actual float length (e.g. 1 for plain weave, 3 for 3/1 twill fabric). The SST equation contains an interaction effect of weft yarn strength and picks/25mm. Response surface plot for this interaction effect is given in Figure 1b. As can be seen from the figure, the increase in weft strip strength with the increase in number of picks/25mm is much sharper when the strength of individual weft yarns is higher. 3.3 Validation of Prediction Models where SST is the strip strength of fabric in weft direction (N); wt. str., the coded value of single yarn As mentioned above, out of a total number of 270 samples, the data of 234 samples were used for 248 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2010 Table 6 — Comparison of actual and predicted values Plain weave (float length=1) Warp strip strength, N Weft strip strength, N Predicted Actual Diff. % Predicted Actual Diff. % 348.45 358.00 2.67 242.24 230.00 -5.32 415.52 423.00 1.77 306.96 305.00 -0.64 371.17 384.00 3.34 415.09 423.00 1.87 413.78 416.00 0.53 343.30 339.00 -1.27 371.77 356.00 -4.43 448.18 429.00 -4.47 451.07 444.00 -1.59 675.94 680.00 0.60 506.84 514.00 1.39 306.97 288.00 -6.59 576.63 556.00 -3.71 259.18 247.00 -4.93 505.10 489.00 -3.29 343.30 343.00 -0.09 611.57 597.00 -2.44 512.29 552.00 7.19 530.16 544.00 2.54 566.30 580.00 2.36 612.18 628.00 2.52 574.77 582.00 1.24 673.54 675.00 0.22 261.08 250.00 -4.43 813.29 815.00 0.21 382.07 383.00 0.24 696.26 708.00 1.66 433.93 453.00 4.21 811.55 806.00 -0.69 442.41 454.00 2.55 696.86 704.00 1.01 467.03 466.00 -0.22 812.15 801.00 -1.39 475.50 479.00 0.73 Twill weave (float length=3) Warp strip strength, N Weft strip strength, N Predicted Actual Diff. % Predicted Actual Diff. % 318.66 320.00 0.42 214.22 219.00 2.18 385.73 373.00 -3.41 278.95 266.00 -4.87 341.37 335.00 -1.90 387.07 379.00 -2.13 383.98 383.00 -0.26 315.28 324.00 2.69 341.98 361.00 5.27 420.16 433.00 2.96 421.28 425.00 0.88 647.93 644.00 -0.61 477.05 484.00 1.44 278.95 272.00 -2.55 546.84 535.00 -2.21 231.17 219.00 -5.56 475.30 483.00 1.59 315.29 325.00 2.99 581.78 553.00 -5.20 484.27 455.00 -6.43 500.37 493.00 -1.49 538.28 527.00 -2.14 582.39 589.00 1.12 546.75 510.00 -7.21 643.75 637.00 -1.06 233.07 238.00 2.07 783.50 763.00 -2.69 354.05 364.00 2.73 666.46 671.00 0.68 405.92 418.00 2.89 781.75 775.00 -0.87 414.39 422.00 1.80 667.07 671.00 0.59 439.01 443.00 0.90 782.36 782.00 -0.05 447.48 447.00 -0.11 Fig. 2 —Fitted line plot for actual and predicted (a) warp and (b) weft strip strengths developing the prediction models while data of 36 samples (18 plain weave + 18 twill weave) were used to check the validity of the developed models. A comparison of actual fabric strength values and those predicted by the developed models (SSP & SST equations) is given in Table 6. Figure 2a gives the fitted line plot between the actual fabric warp strip strength and the warp strip strength predicted by the proposed model. The Pearson correlation between the actual warp strip strength and the predicted warp strip strength is found to be 0.997 with a p-value of 0.000, indicating a very strong ability and accuracy of the prediction model. Figure 2b gives the fitted line plot between the actual fabric weft strip strength and the weft strip strength predicted by the proposed model. The Pearson correlation between the actual weft strip strength and the predicted weft strip strength is found to be 0.993 with a p-value of 0.000, indicating a very strong ability and accuracy of the prediction model. 4 Conclusions The Pearson correlations between the actual and the predicted strength for warp and weft are found to be 0.997 and 0.993 respectively with a p-value of 0.000, indicating a very strong ability and accuracy of the prediction models. Acknowledgement The authors are thankful to the Higher Education Commission of Pakistan for providing funding for this research work. They are also grateful to HUSSAIN et al.: TENSILE STRENGTH OF POLYESTER/COTTON FABRICS Al-Karam Textile Mills Karachi, Al-Rehmat Textile Mills Faisalabad as well as Clariant Pakistan Ltd for providing support in warp preparation, fabric tensile testing and provision of desizing chemicals respectively during the study. 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