garden for wildlife
Across the UK, we look after more than two million acres of garden; with our wildlife increasingly under threat every garden however big or small plays an important part in sustaining
our native plants and animals. Together wildlife gardens can form a corridor, allowing wildlife
sanctuary and the freedom to move to the most suitable habitat.
This document aims to give some simple advice on how to develop wildlife features on your
school grounds, green space, or garden.
farmland habitat: bean goose action plan p.1
service
and people first
Ladybirds
Ladybirds hibernate in as large a group as they can,
sometimes in the thousands, so they keep each other
warm. Sometimes you might find them clustered
amongst the stems at the base of large ornamental
grasses such as pampas grass. Growing clumpforming grasses will give ladybirds somewhere to
hibernate, and they look attractive too.
Before cutting back or burning the grasses, make sure
that it isn’t full of ladybirds first! Wait till the weather has
warmed up, and the ladybirds have woken from their
winter sleep, and tend your grasses then.
contents
1. Where to start - planning your wildlife garden .................................................... 4
2. Habitat features you can add to your space . ..................................................... 5
- Planting a hedge .................................................................................................... 5
- Planting a wildflower meadow ................................................................................. 5
- Make a compost heap ........................................................................................... 5
- Create a log pile ..................................................................................................... 5
- Plant a tree, or two, or three… ................................................................................ 5
- Make a pond ......................................................................................................... 6
3. Tips for the compact garden ................................................................................ 8
4. Themes for your garden ....................................................................................... 9
- An edible corner . ................................................................................................... 9
- The sensory garden ............................................................................................... 9
- The bird garden ................................................................................................... 10
- An orchard . ......................................................................................................... 10
5. The nectar list – guidance on plants that are great for wildlife . .................... 11
6. Making Homes for Wildlife – nest boxes . ......................................................... 13
- Homes for Birds ................................................................................................... 13
- Homes for Bats .................................................................................................... 15
7. Sources of further information, advice and funding ........................................ 17
- Advice and inspiration .......................................................................................... 17
- More information on apple trees and orchards ....................................................... 17
- Advice on Ponds . ................................................................................................ 17
- Sources of funding ............................................................................................... 18
1.where to start
- planning your wildlife garden
Make a map of the area, marking on it all the features that are already there such as grass/lawn, trees,
walls, fences, paths, water features and paved areas.
Think how every part of your area could be improved for wildlife. Are there features present that are
already good for wildlife, such as ponds, trees, and grassed areas? Could these be retained and
improved?
If the area is completely paved you could create raised beds out of railway sleepers, or planks of
wood; these can be built to a good height for children and wheel chair users to work on.
You need to consider long term maintenance of any changes you make to the space. If your wildlife
garden is on school grounds is there an after school club, or a parent and child group that can carry
out weekly tasks like weeding, watering. Longer term tasks also need to be considered such as
seed gathering, seed care, pruning, and harvesting as many of these tasks will need to continue over school holidays.
Choose a name for your
garden; you could even have
your own logo.
Have a look at the further
information section under
funding to find out about
grants that might be available
to you.
Nettles
It might surprise you to know that nettles are
great for wildlife. A patch in a sunny spot will
provide food for butterfly larvae and act as a
decoy for snails, tempting them away from
other more prized vegetables and flowers.
If you leave a corner of your garden uncut,
you might find that nettles will grow there
naturally.
Nettles are a favourite egg laying plant for
ladybirds. By leaving a patch of nettles to
develop in your garden, you will be helping
them to increase their numbers and be able
to watch the strange-looking larvae as well.
p.4
2.habitat features you can add to your space
Planting a hedge
Hedges provide living space and food for all sorts of wildlife, as well as
privacy and security for you. It is best to plant your hedge in winter. Use
a mixture of native shrubs such as Blackthorn, Hawthorn, Guelder Rose,
Hazel, Dog Rose and Honeysuckle. This will attract little birds to your
garden, and they may even nest in it. Hedgehogs like hedges too, and
might hibernate and sleep under yours.
Planting a wildflower meadow
If you use seed it is best to plant your meadow in spring or autumn. You
could plant a mixture of attractive native grasses and flowers such as
poppies, cowslip, rock rose and yarrow.
Another option is to use plug plans; these are young plants that can be
planted straight in to your garden. Plug plants are generally available to
buy from late spring through to late summer.
To manage your meadow you need to mow it twice a year, in early
spring and late autumn after the plants have set seed. It is important to
remove grass clippings, as these will add nutrients to the soil and wild
plants prefer low nutrient ground. Meadows are good for butterflies,
bumblebees, grasshoppers, and moths. Bats and birds will use the
meadow as a feeding area, swooping over it to catch the beasties
attracted to the flowers.
Make a compost heap
Make your own natural fertiliser. Compost garden waste and vegetable
kitchen scraps in a home-made box or bought compost bin. If you have
limited space you can still make compost in a small ‘worm bin’ in your
back garden.
A compost heap can provide a temporary home to frogs, grass snakes,
and bumblebees, so keep a careful eye on it. Hedgehogs like to make
nests at the bottom of compost heaps, so be extra careful when turning
the compost heap.
Please have a look in the further information section to find where you
can get guidance on how to make your own compost bin.
Create a log pile
A log pile in a shady corner is a good home for frogs, toads, shrews,
hedgehogs, ground beetles, centipedes and rove beetles.
Plant a tree, or two, or three…
If your garden is large enough try to include at least one tree. Native
trees will support a huge number of insects that in turn will provide food
for larger animals and birds.
When choosing your tree, find out how tall it is likely to grow. Might it
obstruct a view from a window, or get in the way of a power line?
Native trees:
Wasp grubs eat caterpillars
and other insects - by the
end of summer a nest
may have consumed up to
250,000 insects.
Large: Ash, Wych Elm, Horse Chestnut, Beech, Common Oak, Sessile Oak.
Medium: Alder, Silver Birch, Downy Birch, Bird Cherry and Wild Cherry, Crab Apple, Field Maple, Juniper, Rowan,
Yew, Whitebeam, Goat Willow.
Small trees and shrubs: Blackthorn, Buckthorn, Broom, Dog-rose, Elder, Guelder Rose, Hawthorn, Hazel, Holly, Elder.
p.5
Make a pond
Making a pond isn’t difficult and it doesn’t have to be big.
There are a variety of methods for pond creation, but this is the best and most simple method for a small pond on
school grounds or in a garden:
A Quick Guide
Tool list
- Spades
- Butyl lining cut to the size of the pond + 30cm (for anchoring in trench). Butyl is a tough, durable and
waterproof rubber which will ensure that pond water won’t seep in to the surrounding soil.
- Protective geotextile layer
- Sand, old carpet or cardboard
1. Dig a hole with sloping sides, not exceeding 1:6 gradient. Retain turfs for later.
2. Remove any large stones or obtrusions.
3. Firmly compact the soil on the base and sides.
4. Dig a trench 10 cm deep, about 10 cm from the edge of the pond; this is to anchor in the Butyl lining.
5. Lay a protective layer of sand, old carpet or cardboard covering the surface area of the hole you have dug for the pond. Lay the Butyl lining on top of this.
6. Lay the geotextile layer over the Butyl, trim the geotextile to below the planned water line. Be careful not to dam
age the laid materials.
7. Add a layer of soil.
8. Add water carefully with a hose to avoid disturbing the soil.
9. Tuck the Butyl sheet in to the trench and use the pieces of turf you saved from earlier to cover the liner and fill in the trench to anchor the butyl sheet.
Diagram for illustrative purposes only, please make the sides of your pond much shallower.
For more detailed guidance on pond creation
please look at the further information section.
p.6
Hoverflies eat up to 50 aphids a day.
Good plants for your wildlife pond Don’t put too many plants in your pond, as it may get
difficult to manage.
Free floating: Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum), Frog-bit
(Hydrocharis morsus-ranae).
Under the water: Spiked Water Milfoil (Myriophyllum
spicatum), Curled Pondweed (Potamogeton crispus), Water
Starwort (Callitriche sp).
On the shelf: Arrowhead (Sagittaria sagittifolia), Marsh
Woundwort (Salvia palustris), Water Crowfoot (Ranunculus
aquatilis), Water Violet (Hottonia palustris).
Marginal plants: Yellow Flag Iris, Water Forget-me-not
(Myosotis scorpioides).
Once you have your pond built and the plants put in you
don’t need to do anything initially away apart from keeping
it topped up with rain water in hot weather.
If frogs and toads come to live in and around the pond, they
will need shelter other than the water. Plant plenty of leafy
plants at the pond edge and place flat stones around the
edge for them to shelter amongst. Leaving some bare soil at
the pond edge will help birds too - many birds use mud for
nest-making and will take it from the pond edges.
You don’t need to add any creatures. They will find the water
themselves and make their homes there. The first to arrive
may be pond skaters, then beetles will fly in and damselflies
will come to mate and lay eggs.
If you want the widest variety of wildlife to take up home in
your pond, it’s important that you do not put any fish in it as
they will eat the eggs and tadpoles of frogs and toads and
many other small creatures.
In North Lanarkshire you may even be lucky
enough to attract the nationally important Great
Crested Newt to your pond; this is one of the
most important areas in Britain for this animal.
Try not to disturb the water or pond edges from
late autumn to spring so that any hibernating
creatures are not woken or frightened away. If
you need to clean or mend the pond, it is best
to do it in early autumn.
If there are small children about it might be
better to make a small fence round the pond to
allow only supervised access to the water.
Nature detective
If you think you have small mammals visiting your garden, but haven’t seen any yet, you
can find out what they are by checking for footprints. To encourage mammals in your
wildlife garden, put out some food - peanuts or a bit of tinned dog food - and put a
thick layer of sand by it so that which ever animal eats it leaves their footprints behind.
You can get guides on animal tracks that will help you to identify who your visitor is.
p.7
3. Tips for the compact garden
Use your vertical space; grow climbing plants
such as Honeysuckle and Ivy up walls, fences
or a trellis. These can make perfect nesting
and roosting sites for birds.
Use containers if there is no open ground.
•
Hanging baskets – it is best to line with old woolly jumper instead of moss,
•
Planters
•
Window boxes
•
Raised beds
Even in a small area you can include a water
feature, such as a saucer of fresh water for
birds and hedgehogs. Alternatively you could
sink a bucket or basin in to the ground. Check
your mini pond daily to ensure the water level is level with the ground
so that frogs and newts can get out.
Top wildlife gardening tips
• Avoid using pesticides in your garden. Most pesticides
kill nearly all insects.
• Don’t Use Peat
North Lanarkshire has peat bogs of international
importance. They are unique habitats that support
animals and plants you don’t get anywhere else. If a
peat bog is damaged it releases carbon which increases
the climate change threat. Help protect our local bogs
by using peat free compost and mulches, such as
chipped bark, leaf mould or coir.
• Save rainwater for watering your garden and only top up
your pond when necessary.
• If using a strimmer or lawn mower to cut long grass
or undergrowth, check first to make sure there isn’t a
hedgehog hiding in there. Hedgehogs can be very badly
injured or killed by strimmers and lawn mowers.
• When planting native plants, ensure they are of genuine
native stock and not of continental origin. Also, ensure
‘wild flowers’ have been cultivated from legally collected
seed and not dug-up from the wild.
• Buy FSC accredited garden furniture and charcoal for
barbeques.
Garden heroes
Lacewings adults and larvae feed on
destructive pests such as aphids,
thrips, mealy bugs and mites, some
even feed on powdery mildew.
p.8
4. themes for your garden
Choosing a theme for your garden can be a great way to get pupils interested at school, and could
also be used as a research project.
an edible corner
Fruit and vegetables are not only tasty and good for us but can be good for wildlife too by providing feasts of nectar
and pollen for butterflies and bees.
Most vegetable seeds will need to be sown between March and April, although several fast growing crops can be
sown well into summer.
Generally there’s a bigger range of varieties to choose from if you grow from
seed, but you have to spend a lot of time nurturing the plants before they are
ready to plant out.
If you’re pushed for time or forget to order seeds young plants are available
from May onwards at garden centers’, nurseries, and DIY stores.
Where to grow?
Either grow in a dedicated vegetable patch or try squeezing attractive edibles into
gaps between other plants in beds and borders.
If you’re starved of space grow in pots. Broad beans, Fennel and Potatoes are all
ideal in large containers.
Table 1 lists plants that you can include in your edible garden that are particularly
good for wildlife, but there are lots more to choose from.
food focus
Runner beans and broad beans: Plant the beans in pots at the end of May; be careful to plant
the bean on its back so the young shoot can find its way to the surface quickly. Keep them for
2-3 weeks in pots somewhere warm and sheltered; in a green house or poly-tunnel if you
Great
for
have one. Then plant them out in to the soil or a big container. They like to climb so you
Bumb
le
could make a tee-pee formation with garden canes and plant them around the base. The
runner bees, the
bea
flower will come out at end of June. They need regular watering throughout the summer.
of man n is one
During harvesting in August do not let any pods reach maturity as this will stop the flowers
depen y plants
dan
from forming. So picking very regularly is essential for continual vegetable production - be
bumble t on the
be
a good neighbour and give some away.
pollina e for
tion!
the sensory garden
You could choose plants with interesting textures such as Lambs
Ear, or a strong scent, such as Honeysuckle. You could even
plant flowers such as Yellow Rattle; this bright yellow flower will, as
its name suggests, rattle in the wind when in seed. Many of the
scented herbs from the edible garden can be used here, have a
look at the Nectar List for some ideas.
p.9
the bird garden
Have a look at the plant list to see which flowers, shrubs and trees
you can plant to attract birds.
Seed-eaters such as chaffinches and greenfinches enjoy being
offered a supply of seeds all through the year.
It is not a good idea to put out loose whole peanuts in the spring
and summer. A whole peanut fed to a baby bird by a misguided
parent may choke it!
Leave dead heads on plants so that the birds can pick out the
seeds. Don’t clear up all the autumn leaves - leave some leaf litter
around so that birds can scratch around in it for minibeasts.
Don’t use pesticides. Leave the aphids on the roses for the blue
tits to enjoy - don’t spray them with chemicals. Pellets used for killing slugs and snails can be dangerous to birds and
other wildlife; if a thrush eats a poisoned slug it may itself be affected by the poison. If you have thrushes around they
will help to control the slug and snail population in your garden, so there should be no need to resort to chemicals.
There is some concern about the impact magpies, squirrels, crows, cats and other nest-raiders are having on the
small birds that we like to see and hear in our gardens. Do remember that some of these predators are natural, like
magpies and crows. Most of them are particularly associated with areas with lots of tall open trees. Sparrows, bluetits, robins and other birds will be safer if you provide lots of dense thorny bushes for them to hide in. Magpies and
cats can’t squeeze between blackthorn spikes while a wren can. Try to link shrubby areas in your garden with bushes
and small trees in your neighbours’ gardens, providing protection on both sides of the fence. Without persecuting
predators, you can provide a safe haven for small birds.
As well as having plenty of thick shrubs that birds can shelter in put up some nesting boxes for them. An east, west
or north facing wall is best, or the box may get too hot.
If you have a cat put a bell on it’s collar to alert birds.
Please have a look at the Making Homes for Wildlife section to find out how you can make your own boxes.
an orchard
The size of your orchard will depend on your available space; it
could be anything from 2 to 20 trees although generally no more
than that in order to keep it manageable.
Orchards are great for wildlife, the blossom provides early nectar
for hungry bumblebees, and fallen apples provide food for birds.
Should you get a healthy crop of apples you could of course use
them for apple pies.
Here are some Scottish varieties of apples:
Cambusnethan Pippin - Dessert & culinary apple
A Scottish apple that arose either in Clydesdale around 1750 or
possibly earlier at Stirling.
Hawthornden - Culinary apple
Raised by Drummond of Roslin in 1780, it was described as one of the most valuable and popular apples in
cultivation because it was healthy, vigorous, and an early abundant bearer.
Galloway Pippin - Dessert apple
This apple originated in Wigtown, Galloway, Scotland. Although it first came to attention in 1871, it was believed to
have been in existence long before this date. A yellow apple with spots of russet.
James Grieve - Culinary apple
Its parents were a Pott’s Seedling and a Cox’s Orange Pippin and it was produced in Edinburgh some time before
1893. The apple bruises easily but is an excellent producer and a good apple for pollinating others.
Bloody Ploughman - Dessert apple
Named in 1883, its name is reputedly taken from a ploughman caught stealing apples on the Megginch estate and
shot for it by the gamekeeper. On finding the apples, the ploughman’s wife threw them on to a rubbish heap and one
of the seedlings that emerged was rescued and subsequently named.
For more information on apple trees orchards and suppliers please have a look in the further information section.
p.10
The Song Thrush loves snails.
5. the nectar list
A good aim for your wildlife garden is to try and have a constant availability of
pollen and nectar all year round. The list below provides a selection of plants that
are great for wildlife, it is organised by the season in which they flower. Many of
these plants will benefit several of the visitors to your wildlife garden, including
people.
Some simple rules
• Group flowers to make them easy for bumblebees and butterflies to find.
• A meadow makes a wonderful alternative to plain grass on your
lawn, add flowers to your existing lawn. You only need mow your
wild flower meadow twice a year, in early spring and late autumn,
remember to remove the clippings.
• Avoid hybridised and double flowered types of these plants. They
often contain no nectar and can be difficult for insects to feed on.
Plant and flowering
time
Bumblebees and
butterflies will love
your garden if
you include these
species
Birds will
stop by if you
include some
of these plants
Containers
will be a
comfortable
home for these
plants
Moths will find
their way to your
garden if you
include these
species
Edible varieties
of this species
are available, but
please check with
your supplier
These
flowers
all emit
a lovely
perfume
Spring
Rosemary
(Rosmarinus officinalis)
4
Redcurrant (Ribes
rubrum)
4
4
4
Blackcurrant (Ribes
nigrum)
4
4
4
Gooseberry (Ribes
uva-crispa)
4
4
4
Apple (Maluss sp.)
4
4
4
Cherry (Prunus avium
or P. padus)
4
4
4
Plum (Prunus
domestica)
4
4
4
Pear (Pyrus spp.)
4
4
4
Flowering currant
(Ribes sanguineum)
4
Willow tree (Salix spp.)
4
Bugle (Ajuga reptans)
4
Hawthorn (Crataegus
monogyna)
4
Ceanothus
4
Forget me not
(Myosotis spp.)
4
4
Alder tree (Alnus
glutinosa)
4
4
4
4
4
4
Rowan tree (Sorbus
aucuparia)
4
4
4
4
Silver birch tree
(Betula pendula)
Cowslip (Primulas
spp.)
4
4
4
p.11
Plant and flowering
time
Bumblebees and
butterflies will love
your garden if
you include these
species
Birds will
stop by if you
include some
of these plants
Containers
will be a
comfortable
home for these
plants
Moths will find
their way to your
garden if you
include these
species
Edible varieties
of this species
are available, but
please check with
your supplier
These
flowers
all emit
a lovely
perfume
Summer
Wild marjoram
(Origanum vulgare)
4
Bilberry (Vaccinium
myrtillus)
4
Sage (Salvia officinalis)
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
Thyme (Thymus
polytrichus)
4
4
4
4
Chives (Allium
schoenoprasum)
4
4
4
4
Honeysuckle (Lonicera
periclymenum)
4
Mint (Mentha spp.)
4
Lavender (Lavandula
spp.)
4
4
Wild rose (Rosa
spinosissima, R.
canina)
4
4
Cat mint
4
Raspberries (Rubus
idaeus)
4
Broad bean
4
Sunflowers
4
Buddleia
4
Teasel (Dipsacus
fullonum)
4
Verbena bonariensis
4
Campions (Silene
spp.)
4
Red Valerian
(Centranthus ruber)
4
4
4
4
Especially
Humming bird
hawk moth
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
Hemp Agrimony
(Eupatorium
cannabinum)
4
4
4
Fuchsia
Common Fennel
(Foeniculum vulgare)
4
4
Flowering Tobacco
(Nicotiana affinis)
Lambs Ear (Stachys
lanata)
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
Autumn
Borage (Borago
officinalis)
4
4
Ice-plant/Sedum
4
4
Ivy (Hedera helix spp
helix)
4
4
Tutsan (Hypericum
androsaemum)
4
4
p.12
4
6. making homes for wildlife - nest boxes
homes for birds
Design
There is no standard, accurate design for a nestbox. The key factors are that their
home is secure, weatherproof, and as safe as possible from predators. Different
bird species favour different types and locations of nesting sites, and so boxes
must be constructed accordingly to meet these different needs. Two basic designs
will accommodate most common garden birds; either a partly open-fronted box, or
a box with a circular hole at the front (of varying diameter for different species).
Materials
Undoubtedly wood is the best material to use; new or old wood, rough or planed,
softwood or hardwood - it is really not important. Use what is readily available. A
thickness of about 0.75 inches is ideal.
Manufactured board (plywood and chipboard) are not suitable for outdoor use
(except for resin-bonded marine quality ply, which can be expensive).
After construction, the outside only of the box should be treated with a waterbased wood preservative product such as ‘Cuprinol’ or ‘Sadolin’, etc., (NOT
creosote) to prolong its life and help repel water. All boxes should be treated
annually in this way and allowed to dry thoroughly before being erected. A piece of
roofing felt fixed to the roof will also prolong the life of the box and render it more
waterproof. If you choose not to use a wood preservative, your box will still last a
few years.
Siting of nestboxes
For nestboxes with open fronts and small entrance holes:
Height - Whether fixed to a tree or a wall, the height above ground is not critical to
most species of bird, so long as the box is clear of inquisitive humans and prowling
cats.
Aspect - If there is no natural shelter, it is best to mount a box facing somewhere
between south-east and north, to avoid strong direct sunlight and the heaviest rain.
The box should be tilted slightly forwards so that the roof may deflect the rain from
the entrance.
Predators - It may be possible to deter predators by fixing the nestbox in a
thorny bush, but always ensure a direct flight-path to the entrance. If squirrels or
woodpeckers are a serious threat, fix a metal plate around the entrance, so that it
can not be enlarged.
Fixing - Some authorities recommend nails to attach the box directly to a tree
trunk or branch; others prefer the use of rope or wire right around the box and
trunk (remembering to protect the trunk from wire cutting in by the use of a
piece of rubber or the like). Both methods are satisfactory, but obviously annual
maintenance is easier if the box is wired and can thus be taken down easily for
cleaning.
Number - The number of nestboxes which can be placed in a garden depends on the species you wish to attract.
Many species are fiercely territorial, such as Blue Tits, and will not tolerate another pair close by. About 2 to 3 pairs
per acre is the normal density for Blue Tits. Other species such as Tree Sparrow, which are colonial nesters, will
happily nest side by side.
Position - Do not place any nestbox close to a bird-table or feeding area, as the regular comings and goings of
many other birds are likely to prevent breeding in the box.
Annual cleaning of nestboxes - After the end of each breeding season, all nestboxes should be taken down and
the old nesting materials removed, and the box should be scalded with boiling water to kill any parasites. Annual
cleaning is best carried out in October or November.
Under the terms of the “Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981”, if unhatched eggs are found in the box, they can only
legally be removed from October to January inclusive, and they must be destroyed. It is illegal to keep them.
Winter - Leave the bird box up in winter as it will be useful as a roosting site for birds in bad weather.
p.13
designs
Small Open-fronted and Small-hole nesting birds
Small open-fronted nestbox
A variety of species may be attracted to an open-fronted nestbox placed in a garden, the commonest of which will be
Robin and Wren, although it could also be used by Pied Wagtail, Spotted Flycatcher and Black Redstart.
The size and construction is similar to that for a small-hole nestbox, except that the front will be a piece of wood
3.5 x 6 inches. This box too can be made from one 48 inch plank of timber, 6 inches wide, 0.75 inch thick. It is
not necessary to hinge the roof as the box can be cleaned through the entrance hole. The floor should have small
drainage holes drilled in it.
Nestbox for small hole-nesting birds
Many garden and woodland birds nest in holes and may be attracted to a nestbox. The particular species attracted
will depend on its local distribution and population, and on the size of hole provided in the nestbox. An entrance
hole of 28 millimetres in diameter will admit Blue Tit, Great Tit, Coal Tit, Tree Sparrow and Pied Flycatcher; whereas
a slightly larger hole of 32 millimetres in diameter will also attract House Sparrow, Nuthatch, and Lesser Spotted
Woodpecker.
The following design is for a basic small-hole nestbox. The roof should be hinged, for ease of cleaning out, either by
a non-ferrous hinge and screws or by a rubber strip. The dimensions are only an approximate guide and are by no
means critical; but if they are followed, this box can be made from one 48 inch piece of timber, 6 inches wide, and
0.75 inch thick.
The box may be screwed or nailed
together, and small drainage holes
should be drilled in the floor.
Small-hole box
6”
8”
Open-fronted box
Roof
Roof
Feeding birds
When feeding birds if the
food is left too exposed, the
birds may be in danger from
sparrowhawks, so it is best
to provide cover nearby, like
trees or hedges. Don’t site
the food near nest boxes, as
the busy atmosphere will put
the birds off nesting.
Many birds prefer to eat on
the ground, so put food on
the lawn - well away from
shrubs which can be hiding
a cat. Don’t put too much
out at once - if it’s still there
when night comes the rodent
population will flourish.
If you have old trees, you
can smear fats and fix nuts
into crevices in the trunk.
Nuthatches, Treecreepers
and Woodpeckers will adore
searching for, and feasting
on them.
12”
Back
Back
Side
7”
Front
Floor
8”
7”
6”
Side
7”
Front
Side
Floor
4.5”
p.14
Side
8”
homes for bats
As well as being one of the most threatened types
of mammal in Britain, bats are also among the most
misunderstood. Far from being nasty dangerous animals,
they are attractive small, furry insect eaters which need
all the help they can get.
Bats need a range of roosting sites, including summer
daytime roosts, winter hibernation ones and breeding
sites. You can help them find a suitable roost by putting
up a simple bat box. Just follow the guidelines.
• Make the box from rough sawn timber to give the
bats something to cling to. Make sure the wood is
untreated - many wood preservatives can kill bats!
• The best place to position a bat box is on a tree.
Place them in groups round three sides of a tree
- bats like to move from one box to another during
the day and from season to season as temperatures
change.
• Put the boxes as high as possible above the ground
to avoid predators - some species of bat such as
Noctules prefer roosts at least 5 metres off the
ground.
• Clear away surrounding branches to give them a clear
flight path.
• Boxes can also be located on buildings. A good
position is under the eaves to protect them from bad
weather.
Bats can take a while to investigate new premises, but if
your box is not occupied within three years, try moving
it. You can check if the box is being used by looking for
crumbly brown or black droppings on the ground.
Important
It is illegal to disturb any bat when it is roosting, or to kill, injure or handle a bat without a licence. If your bat box is occupied or
you find a sick or injured bat, please contact Scottish Natural Heritage at their Lanark Office, please see the funding section
below for contact details.
p.15
7. sources of further information, advice
and funding
advice and inspiration
Lincolnshire Wildlife Trust is a brilliant web site full of ideas
and information, including designs for your own compost bin, and
creating a wildflower meadow. www.lincstrust.org.uk
Currie High School - an example of secondary school in
Edinburgh with extensive school grounds development. www.
currieecology.org.uk
Flora locale - A registered charity that seeks to restore wild plants
and wild-plant communities to lands and landscapes, and by this
means raise the biodiversity, environmental quality and enjoyment of
town and countryside.
Their website provides a list of suppliers and sources of British wild
plants, and lots of useful advise and inspiration in their on line library
from Design and Planning a Project to Seed Collection and Plant
Propagation.
National Office, Flora locale, Postern Hill Lodge, Marlborough,
Wiltshire SN8 4ND.
Tel: 01672 515723 e-mail: [email protected]
www.floralocale.org
North Lanarkshire Council Greenspaces Service
Can offer advice on how to manage your land for the benefit of
wildlife and any funding available.
Palacerigg House, Palacerigg Country Park, Cumbernauld G67
3HU.
Tel: 01236 780636 e-mail: [email protected]
Woodland Trust
Founded in 1972, the Woodland Trust is the UK’s leading woodland
conservation charity and relies on the support of its many members
and other supporters to continue its work. The woodland trust often
runs exciting projects and campaigns that you could get involved in.
www.woodland-trust.org.uk/hedge
BBC Breathing Places
“We want to help you get friendlier with wildlife and give you lots of
ideas on how you can do just that.
We work with a range of lovely partners that can provide you with an
abundance of activities that will help you enjoy nature, and best of
all, it will keep you or the kids amused...’’
Ideas for activities, resources and help promoting local events.
www.bbc.co.uk/breathingplaces
Buglife
“Buglife -The Invertebrate Conservation Trust is the first organisation
in Europe devoted to the conservation of all invertebrates, and we
are actively engaged in saving Britain’s rarest bugs, slugs, snails,
bees, wasps, ants, spiders, beetles and many more fascinating little
animals.
Our aim is to halt the extinction of invertebrate species and to
achieve sustainable populations of invertebrates.”
The buglife website has lots of advice and suggestions for
child-friendly wildlife gardening: www.buglife.org.uk/getinvolved/
gardening/gardencreepycrawlies
Grounds for Learning
Grounds for Learning, part of the UK charity Learning through
Landscapes, helps Scottish schools and early years settings make
the most of their outdoor spaces for play and learning.
Grounds for Learning
Inglewood House, Inglewood, Alloa, Clackmannanshire FK10
2HU.
www.gflscotland.org.uk
Eco-Schools
The Eco-Schools programme is an international initiative designed
to encourage whole-school action for the environment. It is a
recognised award scheme that accredits schools who make
a commitment to continuously improve their environmental
performance. It is also a learning resource that raises awareness
of environmental and sustainable development issues throughout
activities linked to curricular subjects and areas.
Eco-Schools Scotland
c/o Keep Scotland Beautiful, Wallace House, 17-21 Maxwell
Place, Stirling FK8 1JU
Tel: 01786 468234 Fax: 01786 464611
e-mail: [email protected]
www.ecoschoolsscotland.org
The Bumblebee Conservation Trust (BBCT)
The Bumblebee Conservation Trust was founded in response to
growing concerns about ‘The plight of the Bumblebee’. BBCT
promote wildlife friendly gardening, and their website is full of useful
information. www.bumblebeeconservation.org
For more information on apple trees, orchards and
suppliers please have a look at:
www.taysidebiodiversity.co.uk/Project_Historic_Orchards.html
www.orangepippin.com : a comprehensive resource for apples
and orchards
www.brogdale.org/nfc_home.php
www.clydevalleyorchards.co.uk/information
www.millenniumorchard.org.uk/about
Advice on Ponds
The British Trust for Conservation Volunteers (BTCV) has
a wide range of practical handbooks on their website covering
a range of conservation topics. The Waterways and Wetlands
handbook has a detailed section on new pond creation and
management:
http://handbooks.btcv.org.uk/handbooks/index
Pond Conservation is the national charity dedicated to creating
and protecting ponds and the wildlife they support. Their website
contains useful fact sheets on pond creation.
www.pondconservation.org.uk
The Young People’s Trust for the Environment
The Young People’s Trust for the Environment is a charity
which aims to encourage young people’s understanding of the
environment and of the need for sustainability. Their website
includes lots of bright and interesting, educational fact sheets.
www.ypte.org.uk/about-us.php
p.17
sources of funding
Sources of funding change regularly, the following was correct at
the time of print, however it is worth contacting the organisation in
the first instance to check that they are still offering grants, and if
your project is applicable.
Scottish Natural Heritage
The role of Scottish Natural Heritage (SNH) is to look after the
natural heritage, help people to enjoy and value it, and encourage
people to use it sustainably.
SNH provide a range of grants. To find out more have a look at
their website: www.snh.org.uk/about/ab-grants.asp Tel: 01555
665928, or write to them at 30 Hope Street, Lanark, ML11 7NE.
Note: SNH will not fund projects on school grounds.
Biffaward is a multi-million pound fund which awards grants to
community and environmental projects across the UK. The funds
money comes from landfill tax credits donated by Biffa Waste
Services. Biffaward is managed by the Royal Society of Wildlife
Trusts (RSWT) on Biffa’s behalf.
You can find more information on their website: www.biffaward.org
or phone: The Grants Officer on: 01636 670059.
Lottery Funding
Lottery Funding is a joint website run by all Lottery funders in the
UK.
This site allows you to search information on current funding
programmes across the UK.
www.lotteryfunding.org.uk
The Big Lottery Fund
“Every year the Big Lottery Fund gives out millions of pounds
from the National Lottery to good causes. Our money goes to
community groups and to projects that improve health, education
and the environment.”
www.biglotteryfund.org.uk
For funding information or general enquiries call the BIG advice line
on 0870 2 40 23 91 or email: enquiries.scotland@biglotteryfund.
org.uk.
1 Atlantic Quay, 1 Robertson Street, Glasgow G2 8JB
Tel: 0141 242 1400 Textphone: 0141 242 1500 Fax: 0141 242
1401
Awards for all
“Awards for All Scotland puts lottery money back into local
communities by giving grants of between £500 and £10,000. We
fund projects that improve opportunities for people to take part in
arts, sport and community activities and can fund a wide range of
organisations.”
Awards for All
4th Floor, 1 Atlantic Quay, 1 Robertson Street, Glasgow G2 8JB
Tel: 0141 242 1400 Textphone: 0141 242 1500
E-mail: [email protected]
www.awardsforall.org.uk/index-scotland
Scottish Community Foundation Grants
Scottish Community Foundation
Suite 3.4, Turnberry House, 175 West George Street, Glasgow G2
2LB
Tel: 0141 225 6670 Fax: 0141 229 1419
e-mail: [email protected] www.scottishcf.org
Note: Not open to schools but is available to Parents Associations if
they are constituted.
p.18
Forward Scotland
Forward Scotland is a leading independent sustainable
development NGO in Scotland. Our mission is to champion
innovative approaches to sustainable development. We aim
to foster long-term cultural and behavioural change to make
sustainable development in Scotland a reality. We provide a holistic,
solutions-based approach and strive to work in partnership with all
sectors of society to inspire and promote a culture of sustainable
development.
Address: The Lodge, Earlsgate House, St Ninian’s Road, Stirling,
Scotland FK8 2HE
e-mail: [email protected]
Phone: 056000 10 560
Fax: 056000 10 580
The Forward Scotland website often has information about available
grants.
www.forward-scotland.org.uk
Central Scotland Forest Trust (CSFT) - Community Project
Fund
The Community Projects Fund offers one-off grants of up to £500
to help formally constituted groups improve their local environment.
The groups are not required to part-fund their projects and the
award can be spent to cover the entire cost of a project or be a
contribution towards it.
www.csft.org.uk
Central Scotland Forest Trust
Hillhouseridge, Shottskirk Road, Shotts, ML7 4JS
Fax: 01501 823919 e-mail: [email protected]
photography and illustrations
Photographs and illustrations courtesy of: Colin Dunlop,
Kieran McCrorie, Gerry Lewis, Scottish Natural Heritage, Royal
Society for the Protection of Birds, Ruth McGuire, Craig MacAdam,
Jackie Gilliland, and Jimmy Maxwell.
p.19