Trailers
A Guide To Ownership and Operation
Bear Track Products, Inc.
PO Box 39
21201 Co. Rd. 82 NW
Evansville, MN 56326
Trailering Check List.............................................................................................. 3
Trailer Registration ............................................................................................... 3
A Proper Match ...................................................................................................... 3
Selecting Your Hitch .............................................................................................. 4
Shopping For A Hitch ............................................................................................. 4
Choosing a Ball Mount........................................................................................... 5
Load Carrying Capacity ......................................................................................... 6
Weight Distribution ............................................................................................... 6
Trailer Hitch ........................................................................................................... 6
Safety Chains ......................................................................................................... 7
Trailer Coupling ..................................................................................................... 7
Lights ..................................................................................................................... 7
Wheels and Hubs ................................................................................................... 8
Wheel Attachment ................................................................................................. 8
Brakes .................................................................................................................... 9
Trailer Jacks ........................................................................................................... 9
Hitching Up ............................................................................................................ 9
Trailering Tactics ................................................................................................... 10
Trailer Warranty .................................................................................................... 12
Reporting Safety Defects ...................................................................................... 12
Tire Safety.............................................................................................................. 13
Tire Fundamentals ................................................................................................. 13
2
Trailering Check List
!
WARNING:
before towing this vehicle be sure to read and familiarize yourself with the instructions and
warnings supplied with the vehicle.
Never Tow This Vehicle Before You Check To Be Sure:
⇒ Coupler is secured and locked
⇒ Coupler, hitch and hitch ball are of the same size.
⇒ Safety chains are safely secured to tow vehicle.
⇒ Check all fasteners for proper tightness.
⇒ Cargo is properly loaded, balanced and tied down.
⇒ Wheel bearings are properly adjusted and maintained.
⇒ Load is within maximum load carrying capacity.
⇒ Tires are properly inflated.
⇒ All trailer lighting is working properly.
⇒ Trailer brakes are properly adjusted and working. (If trailer is so equipped)
⇒ Lug nuts are properly tightened.
This trailer is equipped to meet applicable U.S. and Canadian safety standards. Check local, state and province
requirements regarding brakes and any additional equipment that may be required.
Trailer Registration
Federal law requires compilation of trailer and tire registration information. A registration card is provided for you to
complete and send in to comply with this requirement.
The primary purpose of this form is to make it possible for the manufacturer to contact first purchasers of its products if it
becomes necessary to issue a defect notification concerning the tires and/or trailer. Be sure to complete this registration
form and mail it in accordance with instructions. It is your insurance that you will be notified in the unlikely event that a
recall of your trailer becomes necessary.
PLEASE NOTE:
trailer laws covering such things as brakes, lights, safety chains, licenses, etc., will vary
from state to state. be sure that your trailer is in full compliance with your state laws. your
trailer dealer usually can help you in this regard. if not, contact your nearest state motor
vehicle department office for full information
A Proper Match
!
WARNING:
the total weight of your load, fuel, and gear must not exceed the trailer’s maximum load
carrying capacity. overloading can cause serious injury or property damage. maximum
load carrying capacity is the gross vehicle weight rating(gvwr) less the weight of the empty
trailer.
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!
WARNING:
it’s important that your trailer rides as level as possible. This is achieved by selecting the
correct hitch and ball mount for your tow vehicle and trailer.
Selecting Your Hitch
When you know your vehicle’s towing capacity and your total trailer weight, you have the information you need to select
a hitch. As you shop for a hitch, bear in mind that it’s good to have excess capacity. Sometimes your towing needs will
increase - perhaps you’ll buy a larger boat or camper - and you don’t want to have to purchase a heavier hitch later on.
You can always tow a lighter trailer with a heavier hitch, with the exception of a weight distribution hitch. Because a
weight distribution hitch is essentially a spring, using a higher rated spring bar then necessary will create a stiff ride and
could cause problems.
Figure 5-1 shows a table of common trailer types and tow vehicles. Find your trailer at the top of the figure, then find
your tow vehicle style on the left side. Follow the trailer column and the tow vehicle row to find the likely hitch class you
will need.
Figure 5-1: Matching Trailer, Tow Vehicle and Hitch Class
If your trailer is a fifth wheel or gooseneck design, then you already know you need that style of hitch and all that
remains is to select a hitch with an appropriate weight rating for your trailer.
The information in Figure 5-1 is handy, but make sure you check to make sure your particular trailer does not exceed the
weight listed. You may have to adjust the information in this figure if your trailer is heavier than expected.
Shopping for a Hitch
When you know what hitch class you need, talk to your trailer hitch dealer about the designs that are available. Your
dealer may have some recommendations for your particular vehicle. Some hitches are made to be unobrusive and hide
under your vehicle’s bumper, while others are designed to be more prominently placed or cannot be hidden due to the
vehicle’s under cladding. You have many options in hitch style, quality, finish and in some cases even color, so investigate
and invest in the trailer hitch that best meets all your functional and aesthetic needs.
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Armed with the right basic tools, the manufacturer’s installation instructions, and a little patience, most hitches can
be installed by car and truck owners with little mechanical expertise. Some hitches may require specialized installation
techniques, and you should know what the installation requirements will be before you make a purchase.
If your vehicle came with a hitch installed by the manufacturer, check to make sure that the class of hitch on your vehicle
matches your needs. If not, you can usually find a good aftermarket hitch with increased capacities - but again, never
exceed the manufacturer’s rating capacity for your tow vehicle.
Choosing a Ball Mount
When you have selected a hitch, you also need to select the correct ball mount. The right ball mount has a shaft sized to
match the receiver tube, and raises or lowers the hitch ball to ensure that your tow vehicle and trailer each remain level
as you travel.
Consider the picture shown in Figure 5-2. The receiver tube on your vehicle’s hitch (A) may be higher than the trailer
coupler (B) when the trailer is sitting level on level ground. When you tow, you want your trailer to be level so that your
load is less likely to shift. If your trailer has 2 or more axles, you want the trailer level to distribute its weight equally
among its axle.
Figure 5-2: Leveling a Towing Rig
Because a given receiver is very unlikely to be at the same height as a trailer tongue, ball mounts are made with “drop.”
In Figure 5-2, the drop is indicated by measurement C. That is, you can buy a ball mount in a variety of designs that drop
the actual towing ball enough for your particular trailer to ride level. Ball mounts designed for both “drop” and “rise’ are
also known as “reversible” ball mounts.
Your trailer dealer can help you choose a ball mount with the correct amount of drop or rise. In some cases, you may
need to turn a ball mount over to raise the ball (called “rise”) if you have a low hitch receiver and a tall trailer. Be aware
that you can also adjust the drop or the rise by selecting a ball with a longer or shorter neck.
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Load Carrying Capacity
Check the certification label attached to the left forward side of your trailer. It will show the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
(GVWR) which is the load-carrying capacity plus the weight of the trailer itself. Be sure that the total weight of your load,
gear and trailer do not exceed the GVWR.
Weight Distribution
!
WARNING:
fishtailing caused from improper tongue weight on the tow vehicle hitch ball can cause loss
of control of the tow vehicle and result in serious injury or property damage.
Improper weight distribution can cause a trailer to “fishtail” (sway from side to side) as it moves down the highway,
putting excessive strains on both trailer and towing equipment, increasing gas consumption and sometimes causing
an accident. The most effective way to guard against fishtailing is to make sure that the weight load on your trailer is
properly distributed.
It is extremely important that 5 to 10% of the total weight of your loaded trailer should be felt at the trailer coupling ball
when the tongue is parallel to the ground. A bathroom scale can be used for this determination. For example, if the
gross weight of trailer, snowmobile and gear is 2,000 pounds, the weight on the tongue should not be more than 200
pounds nor less than 100 pounds.
The importance of an adequate hitch weight on the hitch ball cannot be over emphasized.
Trailer Hitch
!
WARNING:
serious injury or property damage can result if the total weight of your loaded trailer
exceeds the capacity of the hitch on your tow vehicle.
Be sure that the total weight of your trailer does not exceed the hitch’s load capacity; the maximum weight it can handle
is stamped on the hitch coupler. Also, be sure the hitch ball is properly sized to match the coupler on your trailer. The
correct ball diameter is marked on the trailer coupler. The hitch also should provide a place for attaching the trailer’s
safety chains; two rings or holes on either side of the hitch ball. A truck or van using a “step bumper” as the hitch
platform will need to have chain attachments such as eye bolts as well as a hitch ball installed according to the Society
of Automotive Engineers SAE J684 Standard. Installing a light-duty or heavy-duty hitch can be a major undertaking.
The hitch and its installation should meet the SAE J684 Standard. It is recommended that you have the job done by a
professional. Your dealer can advise you.
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Safety Chains
!
WARNING:
failure to properly attach safety chains between your trailer and tow vehicle can result in a
run-away trailer should the trailer coupler become detached from the hitch.
Safety chains on your trailer provide added assurance that it will not become detached from the towing vehicle when
underway. You should make sure that proper chains are correctly attached between the towing vehicle and trailer before
each trip.
As noted above, your tow vehicle should provide a place for attaching safety chains; holes or rings on both sides of the
hitch ball. It is strongly recommended (most state laws require it) that you crisscross the chains under the trailer tongue
– the chain on the left side of the trailer tongue attached to the hole or ring on the right side of the hitch ball; the right
chain attached to the hole or ring on the left side of the hitch ball. This will prevent the trailer tongue from dropping
to the road if the trailer coupler separates from the hitch ball. The chains should be rigged as tight as possible with
just enough slack to permit tight turns. If for any reason you find it necessary to replace a safety chain, do not use or
substitute any lighter weight chain.
Trailer Coupling
!
WARNING:
!
WARNING:
failure to properly engage the hitch ball in the coupler ball socket and securely lock the
coupler latch mechanism can cause the trailer to become detached from the tow vehicle while
traveling, which may cause serious injury or property damage.
failure to replace coupler or latch assembly if either shows any evidence of damage can
result in serious injury or property damage.
Your trailer coupling is designed to have the required strength when a hitch ball is in its socket. It is therefore necessary
to exercise care that when the trailer is disconnected from the hitch, the coupling is not subjected to any blow.
The coupling socket should not be allowed to lay on the ground where dirt and sand can enter the socket and cause
excessive wear when the trailer is not hitched up or cause the locking mechanism to jam.
If the coupler becomes damaged it must be repaired or replaced before towing. When the coupling is placed on the ball,
the latch should close firmly. Keep the latch mechanism lightly oiled and clean.
Lights
!
WARNING:
to reduce the risk of serious injury or property damage make certain that all trailer lights
are in proper working order.
State and Federal regulations require all types of trailers to be equipped with tail, stop, turn and side marker lights.
Trailers more than 80 inches wide also are required to have clearance and identification lights. Lights that comply with
these regulations are supplied but it is the owner’s responsibility to maintain them in good operating condition at all times.
7
Here are a few things you can do to keep your trailer lighting system in good working order:
⇒ At least once to twice a year trace the wiring system from the tow vehicle to the trailer and back. Look for
bare wires, cracked or chafed insulation and corroded or rusted terminals. Be sure the white ground wire is still
connected to the trailer frame. Replace any parts that are damaged or badly worn.
⇒ A small amount of waterproof grease on plug contacts and light bulb bases will help to prevent rust and
corrosion.
⇒ Before every trip, check for burned out or broken bulbs, cracked or broken light lenses, etc…
Wheels and Hubs
!
WARNING:
keep wheel bearings lubricated. failure to properly lubricate may cause bearing failure and
possible wheel loss resulting in serious injury or property damage.
Because they are often exposed to water, trailer wheels and tires require frequent attention. Your best protection against
wheel bearing damage is to always keep your wheel assembly fully lubricated. If water stands on bearing surfaces for as
short a time as several weeks without the wheel being turned, rust and bearing damage will begin.
Wheel Attachment
!
WARNING:
under or over torque of wheel lug nuts can cause the wheel to separate from the axle and
could lead to property damage, serious injury or loss of life.
Being sure wheel mounting nuts (lug nuts) on trailer wheels are tight and properly torqued is an important responsibility
that trailer owners and users need to be familiar with and practice. Inadequate and/or inappropriate wheel nut torque
(tightness) is a major reason that lug nuts loosen in service. Loose lug nuts can rapidly lead to a wheel separation with
potentially serious safety consequences. To help eliminate wheel separation:
1.
Lug nuts are prone to loosen after a wheel is mounted to a hub. Check the lug nut
tightness after the initial 10, 25 and 50 miles of driving and before each tow thereafter.
2.
The only way to be certain you have checked the torque or torqued the lug nuts to the
proper torque is with a torque wrench. Four-way wrenches, ratchets and similar tools can
be useful for short-term emergency repairs but are not appropriate tools for accurately
checking lug nut torque. You must use a torque wrench to accurately indicate the torque
that you are applying to the lug nut.
3.
Keep a record of the date and approximate mileage when you check the lug nut
torque. Note any lug nut that has lost torque. Investigate the reason(s) if the lug nut
torque is not maintained after more than one re-torque application, because this indicated
there is something wrong with the lug nuts, nut studs, wheels and /or hubs and should
be corrected.
4.
Take special care to insure that any replacement nut is the correct type. While the threads
of the lug nut may match, the nut may be a size that does not hold the wheel securely
against the hub, even when fully tightened. Be certain a replacement nut is an exact
match for the original.
5.
Contact your dealer or Bear Track Products Inc. immediately if you experience any
persistent nut loosening or any other lug, wheel or axle problem.
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6.
In the event of a wheel separation incident, notify Bear Track Products Inc. or your dealer.
Seek prompt professional assistance in assessing the trailer and its gear, and retain, but
do not re-use involved lugs, wheels and/or studs. Do not repair or service the trailer
yourself – call a trained technician.
3
Pre-Trip Procedure:
1.
Set your torque wrench to 100-110 ft/lbs.
2.
Begin with the appropriate bolt for your wheel and apply torque
to all lug nuts following the star pattern indicated at right.
3.
Complete the procedure on each wheel. Before moving to each
new wheel, be sure to verify your present torque wrench value.
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1
4
2
Brakes
!
WARNING:
trailer brakes must be maintained in good working condition. loss of adequate braking could
result in serious injury or property damage.
Four place trailers come equipped with brakes. Generally, the trailer will be equipped with electric brakes. Electric trailer
brakes work much the same as do drum brakes on cars and trucks. there are two brake shoes for each wheel, each is
a half-moon shape. They are loosely fastened to the brake backing plate with their friction surfaces facing away from
each other to form almost a full circle. At the bottom the shoes rest against a stop, while at the top they rest against
the actuating arm. This arm extends down the front of the brake shoes. Attached to the lower end of this arm is an
electromagnet. The backing plate is bolted to a flange on the trailer axle, through which the spindle for the hub and
bearings passes. The hub, which contains the wheel bearings, is an integral part of the brake drum. The drum resembles
a round cake pan, but is made of heavy cast steel. The inside surface of the sides of the “pan” are machined smooth.
This surface is what the brake shoes press against when the brake is applied. When the hub/drum assembly is installed
onto the spindle the inner surface of the drum is a fraction of an inch away from the friction surface of the shoes, and
the magnet is very close to the front inside of the drum. Electric current from the brake controller energizes this magnet
which in turn tries to attach itself to the spinning brake drum. The rotating motion of the drum causes the actuating
arm to pivot, spreading the brake shoes, causing them to come in contact with the brake drum and apply the brakes.
Hydraulic surge brakes are also available.
Trailer Jacks
The trailer jack should be secured in an upright position (parallel to the tongue) before towing the trailer.
Like any mechanical assembly, a jack requires maintenance to function properly over a long period of time. Drive gear,
rack and pinion should be greased and the caster and the wheel bearings should be oiled frequently.
Hitching Up
before trailering-avoid accidents
•
•
•
•
hitch only to ball size marked on coupling
be certain ball clamp captures ball and lever is fully clamped
cross safety chains under coupling
allow only enough slack for turns
9
When hitching your trailer you should always observe each item of the “Trailer Check List” printed in the front of this
booklet. Hitching your trailer to your tow vehicle usually is a one-man job, but is easier if you have a second person to
help you. Here are the basic steps:
1. Back your vehicle as close as possible to the trailer, it’s easier, and safer, than pulling the trailer to your car or
truck.
2. Check to be sure the coupler locking device is released.
3. Raise the front end of the trailer, position the coupler directly over the hitch ball and lower until it is all the way
down over the ball.
4. Check under the coupling to be certain that the ball clamp is BELOW THE BALL and not riding on top of the ball.
5. Lock the coupler to the hitch ball. To be sure it is in the locked position and securely in place, raise up on the
trailer tongue. If it comes loose from the ball, unlock and go back to Step #3.
6. Be certain the jack is in the fully raised position.
7. If you have a weight-distributing hitch with spring bars, follow above procedures, then attach spring bar chain or
cable to the trailer and tighten until trailer and car are in a normal level position.
8. If your trailer has a brake break-away cable or chain, attach it to tow vehicle, making sure there is enough slack
for tight turns.
9. Attach the safety chains (see “Safety Chains” Section).
10. Connect trailer wiring harness to lighting system of tow vehicle and check operation (see “Lights” Section).
Trailering Tactics
With a trailer in tow you are operating a vehicle combination that is longer, heavier and often times wider than your car
or truck. This means you will have to make a few adjustments in your normal driving practices to compensate for the
difference. Here are a few tips to help you enjoy carefree trailering:
Take a “Shakedown Cruise”: Before you make your first trip with your trailer, make at least one short trial run to
familiarize yourself with its handling characteristics and to be sure everything is working properly – lights, brakes, hitch,
etc.
Slow Down: There is less strain on your car, trailer and boat at moderate to slow speeds. Also, many states have lower
speed limits for vehicles towing trailers.
Allow Extra Time and Space: You will need more of both when passing and stopping, especially if your trailer is not
equipped with brakes.
Check Rear View Mirrors: Install outside rear view mirrors on both sides of the tow vehicle. Make it a habit to check
the mirrors at frequent intervals to be sure your trailer and cargo are riding properly.
Swing Wider: Trailer wheels are closer to the inside of turns than the wheels on your car or truck. This means you
should swing wider at curves and corners.
Pass with Extra Care: With a trailer in tow you’ll need more time and distance to accelerate, get around a slower
vehicle and return to the right lane.
Watch the Wind: Be prepared for sudden changes in air pressure and/or wind buffeting when larger vehicles pass you
from either direction. Slow down a little and keep a firm hold on the steering wheel.
Avoid Sudden Stops and Starts: Even if your trailer has brakes, a sudden stop could cause it to skid, slide or even
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jackknife. (Be especially careful to avoid the necessity for quick stops while turning.) Smooth, gradual starts and stops
will improve your gas mileage and put less strain on your tie downs, etc.
Signal Your Intentions: Well before you stop, turn, change lanes or pass, use your light signals to let other vehicles
know what you intend to do.
Shift to Lower Gear: If your tow vehicle has a manual transmission, traveling in lower gears when going up steep
hills or over sand, gravel or dirt roads will ease the load on your engine and transmission. If your tow vehicle has an
“overdrive” gear (manual or automatic) you will get better gas mileage in a lower gear.
Always be Courteous: Make it as easy as possible for faster-moving vehicles to pass you. Keep to the right side of the
road and be prepared to slow down if they need extra time to return to their proper lane.
Don’t Tailgate: Allow at least one car and trailer length between you and the car ahead for each 10 mph on your
speedometer.
If a Problem Occurs: The general rule is stay cool. Don’t panic and don’t do anything any more suddenly or violently
than you have to. A sudden bumping or “fishtailing” may be a flat tire. Don’t jam on the brakes or mash the accelerator
to try to “drive out of it.” Stop slowly and in as straight a line as possible. If conditions permit, allow your rig to coast
to a very slow speed and try to avoid braking, except when your wheels are straight ahead and the trailer and your tow
vehicle are in line.
If your trailer begins to “fish tail” as you accelerate to highway speed, back off a little and it should cease. If it begins
again as you accelerate, stop and check your load. It probably is not evenly distributed side to side or it is too far back so
the hitch load is low. Redistribute your load before continuing.
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Trailer Warranty
Bear Track Products Inc. warrants its trailers and trailer components purchased new by
the original owner to be free from defects in material or workmanship under normal use,
from the date of sale for the periods as stated:
Five year limited warranty on axle.
Five year conditional warranty on aluminum and aluminum welds.
One year on other components.
This warranty excludes components and options which carry their own manufacturer’s warranty,
wherein that warranty applies.
Bear Track will at its option, repair or replace components deemed defective by Bear Track, at no
charge for parts and labor. This warranty is void if the trailer is used in other than normal application,
or if the trailer is damaged due to incorrect assembly, misuse, neglect, accident, overloading or
improper selection of our product.
Brake laws vary from state to state and require dealerships to sell trailers that comply with the laws
of the state in which the trailer will be registered. Contact your State Motor Vehicle Department.
For services under this warranty, contact selling dealer or
Bear Track Products, Inc. at PO Box 39, Evansville, MN 56326.
Telephone (218) 948-2120.
Reporting Safety Defects
If you believe that your vehicle has a defect which could cause a crash or could cause injury or death, you should
immediately inform the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) in addition to notifying Bear Track
Products, Inc.
If NHTSA receives similar complaints, it may open an investigation and if it finds that a safety defect exists in a group of
vehicles, it may order a recall and remedy campaign. However, NHTSA cannot become involved in individual problems
between you, your dealer or Bear Track Products, Inc.
To contact NHTSA, you may either call the Auto Safety Hotline toll-free at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY: 1-800-424-9153); go
to http://www.safercar.gov: or write to: NHTSA, U.S. Department of Transportation, 400 7th Street SW, Washington DC
20590. You can also obtain information about motor vehicle safety from http://www.safercar.gov.
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TIRE SAFETY
Everything Rides On It
Studies of tire safety show that maintaining proper tire pressure, observing tire and vehicle load limits (not
carrying more weight in your vehicle than your tires or vehicle can safely handle), avoiding road hazards, and
inspecting tires for cuts, slashes, and other irregularities are the most important things you can do to avoid tire
failure, such as tread separation or blowout and flat tires. These actions, along with other care and
maintenance activities, can also:
Improve vehicle handling
Help protect you and others from avoidable breakdowns and accidents
Improve fuel economy
Increase the life of your tires.
This booklet presents a comprehensive overview of tire safety, including information on the following topics:
Basic tire maintenance
Uniform Tire Quality Grading System
Fundamental characteristics of tires
Tire safety tips.
Use this information to make tire safety a regular part of your vehicle maintenance routine. Recognize that
the time you spend is minimal compared with the inconvenience and safety consequences of a flat tire or
other tire failure.
Safety First–Basic Tire Maintenance
Properly maintained tires improve the steering, stopping, traction, and load-carrying capability of your
vehicle. Underinflated tires and overloaded vehicles are a major cause of tire failure. Therefore, as mentioned
above, to avoid flat tires and other types of tire failure, you should maintain proper tire pressure, observe tire
and vehicle load limits, avoid road hazards, and regularly inspect your tires.
Finding Your Vehicle's Recommended Tire Pressure and Load Limits
Tire information placards and vehicle certification labels contain information on tires and load limits. These
labels indicate the vehicle manufacturer's information including:
Recommended tire size
Recommended tire inflation pressure
Vehicle capacity weight (VCW–the maximum occupant and cargo weight a vehicle is designed to
carry)
Front and rear gross axle weight ratings (GAWR– the maximum weight the axle systems are designed
to carry).
Both placards and certification labels are permanently attached to the vehicle door edge, door post, glove-box
door, or inside of the trunk lid. You can also find the recommended tire pressure and load limit for your
vehicle in the vehicle owner's manual.
Understanding Tire Pressure and Load Limits
Tire inflation pressure is the level of air in the tire that provides it with load-carrying capacity and affects the
overall performance of the vehicle. The tire inflation pressure is a number that indicates the amount of air
pressure– measured in pounds per square inch (psi)–a tire requires to be properly inflated. (You will also find
this number on the vehicle information placard expressed in kilopascals (kPa), which is the metric measure
used internationally.)
Manufacturers of passenger vehicles and light trucks determine this number based on the vehicle's design
load limit, that is, the greatest amount of weight a vehicle can safely carry and the vehicle's tire size.The
proper tire pressure for your vehicle is referred to as the "recommended cold inflation pressure." (As you will
read below, it is difficult to obtain the recommended tire pressure if your tires are not cold.)
Because tires are designed to be used on more than one type of vehicle, tire manufacturers list the "maximum
permissible inflation pressure" on the tire sidewall. This number is the greatest amount of air pressure that
should ever be put in the tire under normal driving conditions.
Checking Tire Pressure
It is important to check your vehicle's tire pressure at least once a month for the following reasons:
Most tires may naturally lose air over time.
Tires can lose air suddenly if you drive over a pothole or other object or if you strike the curb when
parking.
With radial tires, it is usually not possible to determine underinflation by visual inspection.
For convenience, purchase a tire pressure gauge to keep in your vehicle. Gauges can be purchased at tire
dealerships, auto supply stores, and other retail outlets.
The recommended tire inflation pressure that vehicle manufacturers provide reflects the proper psi when a
tire is cold. The term cold does not relate to the outside temperature. Rather, a cold tire is one that has not
been driven on for at least three hours. When you drive, your tires get warmer, causing the air pressure within
them to increase. Therefore, to get an accurate tire pressure reading, you must measure tire pressure when the
tires are cold or compensate for the extra pressure in warm tires.
Steps for Maintaining Proper Tire Pressure
Step 1: Locate the recommended tire pressure on the vehicle's tire information placard, certification
label, or in the owner's manual.
Step 2: Record the tire pressure of all tires.
Step 3: If the tire pressure is too high in any of the tires, slowly release air by gently pressing on the tire
valve stem with the edge of your tire gauge until you get to the correct pressure.
Step 4: If the tire pressure is too low, note the difference between the measured tire pressure and the
correct tire pressure. These "missing" pounds of pressure are what you will need to add.
Step 5: At a service station, add the missing pounds of air pressure to each tire that is underinflated.
Step 6: Check all the tires to make sure they have the same air pressure (except in cases in which the
front and rear tires are supposed to have different amounts of pressure).
If you have been driving your vehicle and think that a tire is underinflated, fill it to the recommended cold
inflation pressure indicated on your vehicle's tire information placard or certification label. While your tire
may still be slightly underinflated due to the extra pounds of pressure in the warm tire, it is safer to drive with
air pressure that is slightly lower than the vehicle manufacturer's recommended cold inflation pressure than to
drive with a significantly underinflated tire. Since this is a temporary fix, don't forget to recheck and adjust
the tire's pressure when you can obtain a cold reading.
Tire Size
To maintain tire safety, purchase new tires that are the same size as the vehicle's original tires or another size
recommended by the manufacturer. Look at the tire information placard, the owner's manual, or the sidewall
of the tire you are replacing to find this information. If you have any doubt about the correct size to choose,
consult with the tire dealer.
Tire Tread
The tire tread provides the gripping action and traction that prevent your vehicle from slipping or sliding,
especially when the road is wet or icy. In general, tires are not safe and should be replaced when the tread is
worn down to 1/16 of an inch. Tires have built-in treadwear indicators that let you know when it is time to
replace your tires. These indicators are raised sections spaced intermittently in the bottom of the tread
grooves. When they appear "even" with the outside of the tread, it is time to replace your tires. Another
method for checking tread depth is to place a penny in the tread with Lincoln's head upside down and facing
you. If you can see the top of Lincoln's head, you are ready for new tires.
Tire Balance and Wheel Alignment
To avoid vibration or shaking of the vehicle when a tire rotates, the tire must be properly balanced. This
balance is achieved by positioning weights on the wheel to counterbalance heavy spots on the wheel-and-tire
assembly. A wheel alignment adjusts the angles of the wheels so that they are positioned correctly relative to
the vehicle's frame. This adjustment maximizes the life of your tires and prevents your car from veering to
the right or left when driving on a straight, level road. These adjustments require special equipment and
should be performed by a qualified technician.
Tire Rotation
Rotating tires from front to back and from side to side can reduce irregular wear (for vehicles that have tires
that are all the same size). Look in your owner's manual for information on how frequently the tires on your
vehicle should be rotated and the best pattern for rotation.
A Tire Rotation Example
For maximum mileage, rotate your tires every 5,000 miles. Follow correct rotation patterns.
Tire Repair
The proper repair of a punctured tire requires a plug for the hole and a patch for the area inside the tire that
surrounds the puncture hole. Punctures through the tread can be repaired if they are not too large, but
punctures to the sidewall should not be repaired. Tires must be removed from the rim to be properly
inspected before being plugged and patched.
Uniform Tire Quality Grading System (UTQGS)
To help consumers compare a passenger car tire's treadwear rate, traction performance, and temperature
resistance, the federal government requires tire manufacturers to grade tires in these three areas. This grading
system, known as the Uniform Tire Quality Grading System, provides guidelines for making relative
comparisons when purchasing new tires. You also can use this information to inquire about the quality of
tires placed on new vehicles.
Although this rating system is very helpful when buying new tires, it is not a safety rating or guarantee of
how well a tire will perform or how long it will last. Other factors such as personal driving style, type of car,
quality of the roads, and tire maintenance habits have a significant influence on your tire's performance and
longevity.
Treadwear grades are an indication of a tire's relative wear rate. The higher the treadwear number is, the
longer it should take for the tread to wear down. For example, a tire grade of 400 should wear twice as long
as a tire grade of 200.
Traction grades are an indication of a tire's ability to stop on wet pavement. A higher graded tire should allow
you to stop your car on wet roads in a shorter distance than a tire with a lower grade. Traction is graded from
highest to lowest as "AA", "A", "B", and "C".
Temperature grades are an indication of a tire's resistance to heat. Sustained high temperature (for example,
driving long distances in hot weather), can cause a tire to deteriorate, leading to blowouts and tread
separation. From highest to lowest, a tire's resistance to heat is graded as "A", "B", or "C".
Tire Fundamentals
Federal law requires tire manufacturers to place standardized information on the sidewall of all tires. This
information identifies and describes the fundamental characteristics of the tire and also provides a tire
identification number for safety standard certification and in case of a recall.
Information on Passenger Vehicle Tires
Please refer to the diagram below.
P
The "P" indicates the tire is for passenger vehicles.
Next number
This three-digit number gives the width in millimeters of the tire from sidewall edge to sidewall edge. In
general, the larger the number, the wider the tire.
Next number
This two-digit number, known as the aspect ratio, gives the tire's ratio of height to width. Numbers of 70 or
lower indicate a short sidewall for improved steering response and better overall handling on dry pavement.
R
The "R" stands for radial. Radial ply construction of tires has been the industry standard for the past 20 years.
Next number
This two-digit number is the wheel or rim diameter in inches. If you change your wheel size, you will have to
purchase new tires to match the new wheel diameter.
Next number
This two- or three-digit number is the tire's load index. It is a measurement of how much weight each tire can
support. You may find this information in your owner's manual. If not, contact a local tire dealer. Note: You
may not find this information on all tires because it is not required by law.
M+S
The "M+S" or "M/S" indicates that the tire has some mud and snow capability. Most radial tires have these
markings; hence, they have some mud and snow capability.
Speed Rating
The speed rating denotes the speed at which a tire is designed to be driven for extended periods of time. The
ratings range from 99 miles per hour (mph) to 186 mph. These ratings are listed below. Note: You may not
find this information on all tires because it is not required by law.
Letter Rating
Speed Rating
Q
R
S
T
U
H
V
W
Y
99 mph
106 mph
112 mph
118 mph
124 mph
130 mph
149 mph
168* mph
186* mph
* For tires with a maximum speed capability over 149 mph, tire manufacturers sometimes use the letters ZR.
For those with a maximum speed capability over 186 mph, tire manufacturers always use the letters ZR.
U.S. DOT Tire Identification Number
This begins with the letters "DOT" and indicates that the tire meets all federal standards. The next two
numbers or letters are the plant code where it was manufactured, and the last four numbers represent the
week and year the tire was built. For example, the numbers 3197 means the 31st week of 1997. The other
numbers are marketing codes used at the manufacturer's discretion. This information is used to contact
consumers if a tire defect requires a recall.
Tire Ply Composition and Materials Used
The number of plies indicates the number of layers of rubber-coated fabric in the tire. In general, the greater
the number of plies, the more weight a tire can support. Tire manufacturers also must indicate the materials in
the tire, which include steel, nylon, polyester, and others.
Maximum Load Rating
This number indicates the maximum load in kilograms and pounds that can be carried by the tire.
Maximum Permissible Inflation Pressure
This number is the greatest amount of air pressure that should ever be put in the tire under normal driving
conditions.
UTQGS Information
Treadwear Number
This number indicates the tire's wear rate. The higher the treadwear number is, the longer it should take for
the tread to wear down. For example, a tire graded 400 should last twice as long as a tire graded 200.
Traction Letter
This letter indicates a tire's ability to stop on wet pavement. A higher graded tire should allow you to stop
your car on wet roads in a shorter distance than a tire with a lower grade. Traction is graded from highest to
lowest as "AA","A", "B", and "C".
Temperature Letter
This letter indicates a tire's resistance to heat. The temperature grade is for a tire that is inflated properly and
not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can
cause heat build-up and possible tire failure. From highest to lowest, a tire's resistance to heat is graded as
"A", "B", or "C".