New Zealand Alpine Club
Expedition Fund
Expedition Report of the NZ Expedition to the Hindu Kush
Range Pakistan, 2014
…
Patricia Deavoll, December, 2014
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New Zealand Alpine Club Expedition Fun
Expedition Report of the NZ Expedition to the Hindu Kush Range Pakistan,
June/July2014.
Table of Contents
1.
2.
3.
Overall Aim
Summary
Introduction
3.1
Purpose
3.2
Location
3.3
Character and Access
4.
Personnel
5.
Research and Preparation.
5.1
Introduction
5.2
Research.
5.3
Climbing objectives
5.4
Formalities
5.5
Provisions and fuel
5.6
Finance
5.7
Insurance
5.8
Medical arrangements
5.9
Air travel
6.
Activity/Trip Log
7.
Conclusion
8.
Acknowledgments
9.
Copyright
Appendix A
Appendix B
Appendix C
Appendix D
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1. Overall Aim
The objective of this expedition was to make the first ascents of south face of Langua-tai-Barfi
(7011m) and the south east face of Shakawr (7076m) in the Hindu Kush Range, NW Pakistant.
2. Summary
In June and July 2014 Pat Deavoll and Chris Todd of New Zealand attempted the first ascent of the
south face of Langua-tai-Barfi in the Hindu Kush Range, Pakistan
Arriving in Pakistan in early June the pair (under the management of Tirch Mir Travel, Chitral) spent
two days walking into their basecamp situated at the Roshgol Glacier. They were accompanied by
their cook, cook’s assistant and camp manager.
By the 28th June they had acclimatized to 5200m on the slopes surrounding basecamp and
established an advanced basecamp in the head of the Roshgol Glacier, 15km up valley.
On July 5th the pair left for their summit attempt. On July 9th, after establishing three more camps,
they reached a high point at approximately 6200m on the north ridge (the border between
Afghanistan and Pakistan)The climbing to that point had involved stretches of deep snow, and mixed
rock and ice, although it did not require pitching.
They left for the summit at 1am on July 10th and climbed for 14 hours through deep unconsolidated
snow in very low temperatures (-28deg at midnight). At 5pm they estimated they were still 200m
from the summit and had another 4/5 hours of climbing to reach the summit. As the weather had
deteriorated and they were climbing in whiteout conditions, they made the decision to turn back.
They arrived back at their camp at approximately midnight.
The next day the pair down-climbed 1000m to reach the glacier. This was very arduous. They then
retreated to base camp, arriving at approximately 5pm on July 12th.
As they only had three days left until the porters returned, they did not have the time to make an
attempt on Shakawr.
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3. Introduction
3.1 Purpose
The expeditions aim was to attempt the first ascents of the south face of Langua-tai-Barfi(7011m)
and the south east face of Shakawr (7076m)/
3.2 Location.
Both mountains are situated in the Hindu Kush Range in the NW corner of Pakistan.
The Hindu Kush is an 800 km long mountain range that stretches between central
Afghanistan and northern Pakistan, dividing the valley of the Amu Darya (the ancient Oxus) to the
north from the Indus River valley to the south.
The highest point in the Hindu Kush is Tirich Mir (7,708m) in Chitral District of Khyber
Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan. To the east the Hindu Kush buttresses the Pamir range near the point where
the borders of China, Pakistan and Afghanistan meet, after which it runs southwest through Pakistan
and into Afghanistan, finally merging into minor ranges in western Afghanistan. The mountain range
separates Central Asia from South Asia.
Both Langua-tai-Barfi and Shakawr are situated in the head of the Roshgol Glacier, which is reached
by trekking for two days from the village of Zondangran.
To reach Zondangram, one must drive 14 hrs from Islamabad to Chitral via the town of Dir, and then
another 5/6 hours 4WD to reach the village
3.3 Character and Access
Both mountains lie at the head of the Roshgol Glacier, two long days walk from the road end at the
village of Zondagram. The first days walk climbs steeply up from the village on the west bank for
5/6 hours before crossing the river on avalanche debris to the east bank. From here the going is
easier- another 3/4 hours to the herders camp at Duru (3600m), a pleasant place amongst the trees.
The second days walk involves a steep climb above the east side of the river on moraine terraces.
The site of basecamp is reached after 5/6 hours.
Both days walk are along a good track, used by the villagers to move cattle up to the summer grazing
pastures.
Basecamp is situated at on a wide pastoral flat at the termination of the glacier. Udren Zom
(c7300m) and Shakawr (7076m) are to the west and Sharagrar (7300m) is to the east. Essentially
basecamp is hemmed in by 7000m mountains- it is quite a spot.
4. Personnel
The expedition members comprised of two New Zealand climbers. These were;
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Patricia Deavoll
Christopher Todd
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(See Appendix D for climbers resumes)
5. Research and Preparation
5.1 Introduction.
This section describes the expedition’s preparation prior to leaving New Zealand.
5.2 Research
Researching these two mountains was rather an organic process. To begin with, we hoped to climb
them from the Afghan (northern) side, and were researching the Shakawr Valley (part of the Wakhan
Corridor) for unclimbed routes. Then we discovered, quite by chance, that Langua-tai-Barfi hadn’t
had an ascent from the Pakistan (south) side and had a feasible south face. Also, Shakawr hadn’t
been climbed from the Roshgol Glacier, and so we decided it would make a suitable second
objective, should Langua-tai-Barfi prove unsuitable, or we had extra time.
The most useful piece of information we found was an article written by Kei Kurachi on the 1967
Hitotsubashi University Mountaineering Club Hindu Kush Expedition called “The Three Ascents in
Rosh Gol Valley.” The expedition climbed the South Peak of Saraghrar (c7300m), Nohbaisnom
(6,600m) and the South Peak of Udren Zom (7030m).The article gave good description of the area
surrounding the peaks they climbed.
We also located (through Tirich Mir Travel) and invaluable photo of both the SW Face of Shakawr
and the South Face of Langua-tai-Barfi, taken by a German paraglider.
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We located a map produced by the Defense Mapping Agency Hydrographic Topographic Agency,
Washington DC, 1981.
5.3. Climbing Objectives
 To make the first ascent of the South Face of Lahgua-tai-Barfi and the SE Face of Shakawr. .
 To run a lightweight expedition with low resource use and environmental impact.
Udren Zom (left), the SW face of Shakawr (centre)) and South Face of Langua-tai-Barfi (right).
5.4. Formalities.
There are some strict formalities required to climb in Pakistan.
All peaks below 6,500m are free from any peak fee, however climbing activity on mountains higher
than 6,500m requires a climbing permit from the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism. The Ministry is
currently providing 50 percent off the peak fee for these peaks. To encourage climbing during the
winter, 95% concession off the peak fee has been offered for all peaks between December 1 and end
of February.
In addition we paid an environmental fee and a refundable ‘rescue deposit’ of US$6000 to Askari
Helicopters in lieu of a mountain rescue.
We enlisted the services of Tirich Mir Travel (Chitral) to organize our permit, transport, porters and
base camp staff and facilities. We recommend future expeditions to Pakistan to enlist the help of
Tirich Mir Travel, who were excellent.
A meeting with the Alpine Club of Pakistan in Islamabad prior to leaving for the trip, and on return,
is mandatory.
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5.5. Provisions and Fuel.
Freeze-dry food was brought from New Zealand, courtesy of Back Country Foods who offered a
sponsorship arrangement. We also brought protein bars and porridge sachets from New Zealand.
All other food items and butane gas canisters were purchased in Islamabad where there are now good
supermarkets
5.6 Finance.
Costing:
The total cost of the expedition including airfares to and from New Zealand was:
NZ$ 16,070
Broken down, this consists of:
Airfares New Zealand/ Islamabad for two persons: NZ $4200
Services of Tirich Mir Tracel, including peak permit, for 35 days for two persons: $NZ 8000
Insurance for two persons: NZ S1050
High altitude food: NZ $100.00
First aid kit, NZ$ 100.00
Climbing equipment: NZ$2000.00
Clothing: NZ$1150.00
Hotel accommodation en-route to Pakistan: $NZ 620.00
Total: $NZ16, 070
Funds raised:
Shipton Tilman Award:$US4000 (NZ$5000)
New Zealand Alpine Club: NZ$1000.00
Earth Sea Sky clothing sponsorship: NZ$5000
Total: $11,000
The short fall of NZ$5070.00 was made up from the climbers own pockets.
5.7 Insurance
Insurance was arranged through the New Zealand Alpine Club, which offers a policy arranged by
Torribles Insurance Brokers of Bristol, England. Cover for each member for the period of the
expedition (35 days) was NZ $525.00. The cover extended to medical, travel cancellations, search
and rescue, personal liability and accident and personal effects.
5.8 Medical arrangements
Both climbers had extensive personal first aid and medication kits organized by Chris’s wife Ruth
who is a GP. These proved adequate for the minor ailments suffered (cold and flu, muscle strain,
stomach ailments etc.) and for altitude related illness, and were sufficient to alleviate more serious
injury if air evacuation was immediate.
5.9 Air Travel
Both climbers flew from New Zealand to Islamabad with Emirates with a stopover in Dubai.
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6. Activity/ Trip Log
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Day 01: Arrive Islamabad
Day 02: Shopping. Meeting with
Alpine Club
of Pakistan representatives
Day 03: Drive Islamabad- Chitral
Day 04: Drive Chitral to Zondangram
Day 05: Rest and acclimatization
Day 06: Walk to Duru
Day 07: Walk to basecamp at Kotgaz
(4200m)
Day 08: Acclimatization 4500m
Day 09: Acclimatization 5000m
Day 10: Rest day
Day 11: Walk to head of glacier. ABC.
4800m
Day 12: Climb to 5300m on route
Day 13:Return to Basecamp
Day 14: Weather day
Day 15:Weather day
Day 16: Weather day
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Day 17: Walk up glacier to ABC
Day 18: Camp 1, 5000m
Day 19: Camp 2, 5300m
Day 20: Camp3, 6200m
Day 21: Summit day. Turned back at
6800m
Day 22: Descend to glacier, 5000m
Day 23: Return to Basecamp
Day 24: Rest day
Day 25: Rest day
Day 26: Rest day
Day 27: Descend to Zondangram
Day 28: Zondangram
Day 29: Drive Chitral
Day 30: Chitral
Day 31: Chitral
Day 32: Drive Islmabad
Day 33: Depart Islmabad
Langua-tai-Barfi showing route and ABC, camps 1, 2 and 3 and high point reached
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7. Conclusion
8. Acknowledgments
The expedition gratefully acknowledges assistance from the following organizations:
 The Mount Everest Foundation.
 Shipton Tilman Award/ WL Gore
 The New Zealand Alpine Club.
 Southern Approach.
 Back Country Foods.
 Earth Sea Sky
9. Copyright
The compiler of this report and the members of this expedition agree that all or part of it may be
copied for the purpose of private research.
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Appendix A: Photographs
Zondangram Village
Langua-tai-Barfi: pre-expedition research
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Shakawr: SE Face
Udren Zom, south face
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Upper Roshgol Glacier
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Appendix B: Maps
Chitral Region
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Lower Tirich watershed with Rohgol Glacir lower right.
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Roshgol Glacier and environs
Appendix C: Climbers Profiles
Name: Pat Deavoll
 Age: 54
 Occupation: writer
 Experience:
 Pat has been climbing mountains since 1975. As well as climbing extensively throughout the
Southern Alps over the past 35 years, she has taken part in expeditions to Alaska (2002,
2003) China/Tibet (2005, 2006), India (2004, 2007, 2010), Nepal (1985, 1986) and Pakistan
(1986, 2007, 2008, 2009) and Afghanistan (2011, 2012). She has also climbed waterfall ice in
Canada (1999, 2000) to a high standard, and rock climbed prolifically in New Zealand,
Australia, Thailand, Europe, UK and USA to grade 8a. She was the Macpac/CMC
Mountaineer of the Year in 1999, and the Next Magazine Sportswoman of the Year in 2012.
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Name: Chris Todd
 Age:52
 Occupation: Manager NZ Society of Forest and Bird
 Experience:
 Chris was a prolific mountaineer in the 1970’s and 1980’s before giving climbing away for
family and career. He specialised in making ascents in the most remote parts of the Southern
Alps such as the Olivine Ice Plateau, as well as the Mt Cook and Aspiring regions. He has
recently started climbing again, and has taken no time in rekindling his skills and fitness.
Appendix D: Contact
Pat Deavoll
2 Glamis Place
Cashmere
Christchurch 8022
New Zealand.
Ph. 0212161386
Email:[email protected]
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