Shiitake Mushrooms
This mushroom is the second most widely cultivated mushroom in the world. It has
been a popular food source in the cuisine of Asia for hundreds of years. In America, we
have enjoyed it in Chinese and Japanese restaurants. Following recent improvements in
cultivating techniques, it is rapidly becoming a favorite in markets and on dining tables
in the United States and Canada. The shiitake has a medium-sized, umbrella-shaped,
tan to brown cap. The edges of the cap roll inwards. The underside and stem are white.
You will find many variations when you shop for this mushroom.
It has been estimated that the origin of shiitake mushrooms can be traced to the cretaceous period, over one
hundred million years ago. It is found growing wild in the mountainous regions of China, Japan, Indonesia, and
Taiwan. The scattering of shiitake spores has been traced using typhoon wind patterns as the mushrooms were
dispersed from one to the other of these countries.
In China it is called dongo and shanku. When served in Chinese restaurants here it is called "the black forest
mushroom." The Japanese call the most highly prized and priced specimens donko. These have closed caps.
Koshin types (spring season variety) have open caps and are less expensive.
The Chinese were the first to cultivate this mildly fragrant mushroom more than six hundred years ago. Yield and
quality varied from year to year until scientific techniques were developed. Japanese scientists developed a
method of inserting pencil-shaped plugs of mycelial spawn grown from specially selected varieties of Lentinus
edodes into holes bored in oak logs. Carefully watched over in the forest, the prepared logs carried out the work
that supported the entire shiitake industry. Today it is grown in the United States as well as in Asian countries on
a variety of materials containing cellulose, such as sawdust enriched with rice bran. It is sold fresh as well as
dried.
Shop with care when purchasing dried shiitakes, since there are many grades and prices. The caps may be thick
and fleshy, or thin; large or small; cracked on top or smooth. The very thick, cracked-topped donko types are
expensive, but worth the price. They are meaty and can stand up to any food.
Cleaning
Because shiitakes grow on wood or other coarse cellulose materials, the fresh mushrooms are very clean. Brush
the caps lightly. As a rule, the stems are tough, so cut them off using a knife or scissors. The stems can be used to
add flavor to stock.
Cooking
shiitake mushrooms will enhance the flavor of most foods, except, perhaps, baked ham. It is also tasty by itself,
cooked several different ways. It accents vegetables, meats, seafood, poultry, and even other mushrooms. The
classic way of handling dried caps is to simmer them in water with a little soy sauce to make a shiitake bouillon.
Added to a light cream sauce, the shiitake is ideal for flavoring pasta dishes.
Reconstitute dried mushrooms by soaking in hot or boiling water for 20 minutes. Save the liquid to include with
your food for another dish. Pour off the liquid at the top to separate it from any debris at the bottom of the dish in
which it was soaked.
Preserving
When dried, they store well in closed glass containers.